Publication No. H915

Guide To CABINET DOOR HINGES

There are literally hundreds of hinge types out there, but not all types will work with every door or cabinetry style. This guide will help you identify the kinds of hinges that will work so you’ll know what your options are. The first step is to determine what kind of base cabinetry you have (or will have). Next, determine how the doors will be installed on the base cabinetry. Then we’ll show you how to determine the overlay (if applicable). Next we’ll list the main kinds of hinges used for cabinetry, and what door and base cabinet types they’ll work with. The illustrations will allow you to quickly identify hinges and their variations, with the pros and cons for each type. Finally, our tips section will help you avoid potential pitfalls.

This is a huge topic, and can be a bit bewildering. Before proceeding, please consider this advice – if you’re simply replacing a single door, use the same hinge type as the existing door. You may even be able to re-use the old hinge. If you’re re-facing your entire kitchen or building new cabinetry and want to know what your options are, or need to identify a hinge type, read on.

CABINET DICTIONARY

face frame The flat

front of a flush (or “overlay”) base cabinet. Frameless cabinets don’t have a face frame.

CABINET DICTIONARY

stile A vertical piece of the

face frame that has no framing behind it, just the open space inside the base cabinet. Typically found in the center of the opening in a base cabinet, where a pair of doors meet.

CABINET DICTIONARY

reveal The gap between

an inset door and the base cabinet frame. Face frame cabinets with paired doors that come together without a stile will also have a reveal where those doors meet. The contents of a cabinet can be seen through the reveal, so it’s generally made as small as possible.

CABINET DICTIONARY

overlay The amount a

cabinet door “overlays” or laps in front of the face frame. An easy way to find this is to hook a tape measure on the inside of the opening in the face frame and then close the door. It’s a good idea to check this on every side of several doors, especially if your cabinets have adjustable hinges.

Hinge Basics Every hinge has at least three parts: the pin and two wings. The wing attached to the door is called the “door wing” and the other wing is called the “frame wing”. Hinges that incorporate lots of features tend to be larger and more complex. Mechanically sophisticated hinges also tend to be more expensive, but are often easier to install and adjust. Likewise, features like “soft closing” and “snap open” add to the intricacy of a hinge. Bear in mind that the more parts there are, the greater the likelihood that something will break – the simplest hinges last the longest. There are a lot of ways to classify hinges; their style, the materials they’re made from, or how they install. But in the world of cabinetry most hinges are classed by what you see (or don’t see) after they’re installed. By that standard there are three primary types of cabinet door hinges:

1. Hidden Hinges 2. Partially Hidden Hinges 3. Exposed Hinges

HIDDEN HINGES Also called “Euro hinges”, these are by far the most popular type for cabinetry today. They’re an excellent choice for overlay doors. Most have frame wings that mount on the edge of the face frame, though versions are available that attach to the broad sides of the frame – these can be used for inset doors. Because of the tight tolerance between inset doors and the base cabinet frame,

adjustable hinges are virtually a necessity for them, with double or triple adjustability being advised. Partial inset doors are trickier to fit with hidden hinges, since the movement (or “throw”) of the hinge must be sufficient that the outside edge of the door doesn’t hit the face frame (or adjacent doors). To some extent this is accomplished by the pin being inside the cup, but often the doors are mounted 1/8” or so away from the face frame to provide adequate clearance. Most hidden hinges have a cup on the door wing which goes in a borehole, typically 35mm diameter. This is drilled using a Forstner bit. Some brands require a different diameter or even a rectangular borehole, so beware when buying. Kits for drilling boreholes are readily available for about $35 online, and normally include the bit and a jig to ensure proper

hole placement. Hinges mounted in boreholes are much stronger than those installed with screws alone. There are also hidden hinges that can be installed without boring, using just wood screws. These “boreless” hinges tend to be less widely available, more expensive, and not as strong as conventional bored hinges.

PROS CONS

Totally hidden Widely available Not expensive Strong & durable

Most require a borehole Large Not well-suited for partial inset doors Must be adjustable to use with inset doors

PARTIALLY HIDDEN HINGES This includes hinges that have any part (but not all) visible. Sometimes the knuckles and pin are all that show. Often one wing will also be exposed, either the door wing or frame wing. Because they’re partially exposed, you’ll want to make sure the style and finish are a good match with the rest of the room’s hardware, such as drawer pulls, cabinet door knobs, towel racks, etc. This also presents the opportunity to use them as design elements – a nice small touch that complements a room’s

character. “Wrap around” styles have a frame wing that goes around at least two sides of the frame for a stronger installation. Partially hidden hinges are particularly well-suited to partial inset doors. There’s even a special type called “⅜ inch inset hinges” that are designed specifically for use with partial inset doors that have a ⅜” notch in the back. Our “D”, “E” or “N” outside frame profiles are made to work with them. In the past it was common to see partially hidden hinges made for larger insets. If you’re restoring an old kitchen and need the special oversized inset these hinges require, let us know – we can help. Partially hidden hinges can also be used for overlay doors as well. If both wings are to be hidden with just the knuckles and pin exposed, careful attention must be made to insure the hinge will work with your door’s overlay. Simple butt hinges work well for inset doors, and can be mortised or unmortised. Self-nesting hinges are an excellent choice for inset doors if you don’t want

to fool with mortising, but need to keep the reveal small. Knife hinges are also a good choice for inset doors. Each wing is normally mortised in. Straight knife hinges are virtually invisible, but require a larger reveal, whereas offset knife hinges work well with very small reveals and are only slightly more noticeable.

PROS CONS

Styling is visible Not expensive Strong & durable Small & unobtrusive Fairly easy to hang

Hard to find matching replacements Hard to measure for & buy correctly Most require mortising Not well-suited for overlay doors Little ability to adjust after installation

EXPOSED HINGES These completely visible hinges are installed on the outside of the door and cabinet frame. Their visibility allows them to be a powerful part of a room’s décor, such as wrought iron barn hinges in a rustic kitchen. Most simply screw in without mortising. This makes them easier to install, but it also means they must be larger and have more screws for a solid

attachment. There are exposed hinges available for every door type, although they aren’t well-suited for use with frameless Euro cabinets. Most aren’t adjustable, so it’s crucial to make sure the placement is right before drilling (always drill pilot holes for screws in any kind of hardwood). Exposed hinges don’t normally include features like “snap open” or “snap close”, and we’ve never seen one that had “soft close”. In the past, many exposed hinges were made to follow the rounded

outside edge of a partial inset cabinet door. That “offset” style is obsolete now, but our “D” profile will work them if you need a replacement. Just send us a message with a few

cell phone photos and we’ll design a matching door for you. Butterfly hinges are a very popular type of exposed hinge, and available in a plethora of materials and styles. Old-fashioned strap hinges (sometimes called “T hinges”) are particularly good for achieving a rustic look, but the long door wing

won’t work with many door styles.

If you run into something you’re not sure about, feel free to contact us – we’ll help. Even if we don’t have the answer ourselves, we’ll contact one of our hinge suppliers and get you the right information. We’d like to leave you with just a few more tips and recommendations; our “two cents” worth.

Determine what type of doors and what style of hinges you’ll be using before buying either.

If you’re not sure they’ll work together, don’t purchase either until you are

Avoid Chinese-made hinges, the metal is often weak and inferior, and few have an enforceable warranty

Decorative hinges can be pricey – unless you’re sure you won’t be changing your kitchen’s style, use hidden hinges instead

Every hinge on every door should be placed the same distance from the top of the door as the others. The same goes for the bottom hinges.

Never drill a borehole without a jig. Never drive a screw into a door without a pilot hole.

Always try to buy hinges with some form of adjustment, even if it’s just slotted screw holes.

When setting hinges with slotted screw holes, drill the pilot holes for the slotted ones first. Get the door exactly where it needs to be, tighten those screws, then drill the pilot holes for the remaining screws.

If in doubt, use adjustable hidden hinges

PROS CONS

Very visible styling element Widely available Not expensive Easy to install

Must be changed if room’s style changes Mind boggling array of choices Few options or features available Large, with minimal adjustment possible