brief 06 - dc signature 1

8
16 | HIGH END DESIGN Kirsty Hair | Design Context Alexey Brodovitch was an inuential editorial designer in the 1950s. He was an artist, graphic designer and photographer. However, he was most famous for his art direction, primarily for the magazine Harpers Bazaar. He was an aesthetic entity whose permanent inuence was perceived along the entire visual arts. His style of combining elegantly set typography with new and experimental trends in photography became widely popular in the 1940s and 1950s, helping to keep the magazine at the forefront of its eld in a swiftly changing world. Brodovitch was the rst art director to integrate image and text. Most American magazines at that time used text and illustration separately, dividing them by wide white margins. Brodovitch ALEXEY BRODOVITCH cropped his photographs, often off- center, brought them to the edge of the page, and integrated them in the whole. He used his images as a frozen moment in time and often worked with succeeding pages to create a nice ow through the entire magazine. This brought a new dynamism in fashion layouts. The typeface he preferred was Bodoni, but when needed he switched to Stencil, Typewriter or a script. He matched the typeface with the feeling or with the need for an appropriate effect. Legibility was not his primary concern and his layouts are easily recognized by his generous use of white space. Colleagues at other magazines saw his sparse designs as truly elegant, but a waste of valuable space. HIGH END DESIGN by Kirsty Hair

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Page 1: Brief 06 - DC Signature 1

16|

HIG

H E

ND

DE

SIG

NKirsty Hair | Design Context

Ale

xey

Bro

dovi

tch

was

an

infl u

enti

al

edit

oria

l des

igne

r in

the

1950

s. H

e w

as a

n ar

tist

, gra

phic

des

igne

r and

pho

togr

aphe

r.

How

ever

, he

was

mos

t fam

ous

for

his

art

dire

ctio

n,

prim

arily

fo

r th

e m

agaz

ine

Har

pers

B

azaa

r.

He

was

an

ae

sthe

tic

enti

ty w

hose

per

man

ent

infl u

ence

was

pe

rcei

ved

alon

g th

e en

tire

vis

ual

arts

. H

is

styl

e of

co

mbi

ning

el

egan

tly

set

typo

grap

hy w

ith

new

and

exp

erim

enta

l tr

ends

in

ph

otog

raph

y be

cam

e w

idel

y po

pula

r in

the

194

0s a

nd 1

950s

, hel

ping

to

kee

p th

e m

agaz

ine

at t

he f

oref

ront

of

its fi e

ld in

a s

wift

ly c

hang

ing

wor

ld.

B

rodo

vitc

h w

as

the fi r

st

art

dire

ctor

to in

tegr

ate

imag

e an

d te

xt. M

ost

Am

eric

an m

agaz

ines

at t

hat t

ime u

sed

text

an

d ill

ustr

atio

n se

para

tely

, di

vidi

ng

them

by

wid

e w

hite

mar

gins

. Bro

dovi

tch

AL

EX

EY

BR

OD

OV

ITC

H

crop

ped

his

phot

ogra

phs,

of

ten

off-

cent

er,

brou

ght

them

to

the

edge

of

the

page

, and

int

egra

ted

them

in

the

who

le.

He

used

his

im

ages

as

a fr

ozen

mom

ent

in ti

me

and

ofte

n w

orke

d w

ith

succ

eedi

ng

page

s to

cre

ate

a ni

ce fl

ow

thr

ough

the

en

tire

m

agaz

ine.

Th

is

brou

ght

a ne

w

dyna

mis

m in

fash

ion

layo

uts.

Th

e ty

pefa

ce h

e pr

efer

red

was

B

odon

i, bu

t w

hen

need

ed h

e sw

itch

ed

to S

tenc

il, T

ypew

rite

r or

a s

crip

t. H

e m

atch

ed t

he t

ypef

ace

wit

h th

e fe

elin

g or

w

ith

the

need

for

an

appr

opri

ate

effe

ct.

Legi

bilit

y w

as n

ot h

is p

rim

ary

conc

ern

and

his

layo

uts

are

easi

ly

reco

gniz

ed

by

his

gene

rous

us

e of

w

hite

sp

ace.

C

olle

ague

s at

oth

er m

agaz

ines

saw

his

sp

arse

des

igns

as

trul

y el

egan

t, bu

t a

was

te o

f val

uabl

e sp

ace.

HIG

H

EN

DD

ESI

GN

by K

irst

y H

air

Page 2: Brief 06 - DC Signature 1

15H

IGH

EN

D D

ESI

GN

|

Like

m

ost

grap

hic

desi

gn,

new

spap

er

and

mag

azin

e de

sign

is

an e

xerc

ise

in c

ombi

ning

tec

hnic

al d

etai

l w

ith

arti

stic

fl ai

r. T

he c

ore

com

pone

nts

of e

dito

rial

des

ign

are

text

and

pic

ture

s, s

o a

keen

und

erst

andi

ng o

f typ

ogra

phy,

la

yout

s,

grid

s an

d co

mpo

siti

on

is

esse

ntia

l. In

fa

ct,

mag

azin

es p

erha

ps m

ore

than

any

oth

er fo

rmat

show

how

th

e m

any

elem

ents

of

grap

hic

desi

gn c

an c

ome

toge

ther

in

one

pla

ce: i

mag

es, i

llust

rati

on, p

hoto

grap

hy, l

ogos

and

m

asth

eads

, inf

orm

atio

n de

sign

, pap

er s

tock

and

so

on.

W

hat

is p

erha

ps a

lit

tle

diff

eren

t fr

om o

ther

are

as

of

grap

hic

desi

gn

is

that

ed

itor

ial

desi

gn

dem

ands

co

nsta

nt r

einv

enti

on,

as J

erem

y Le

slie

of

mag

cult

ure.

com

exp

lain

s: ‘E

dito

rial

des

ign

uses

and

fus

es t

wo

key

elem

ents

of

grap

hic

desi

gn.

It u

ses

tem

plat

es a

nd s

ets

up r

ules

to

follo

w, w

hich

is

the

tech

nica

l si

de, i

n te

rms

of u

nder

stan

ding

str

uctu

re a

nd li

mit

ing

your

cho

ices

to

mak

e ce

rtai

n st

atem

ents

. B

ut i

t’s a

lso

abou

t ta

king

the

ru

les

that

you

hav

e se

t up

and

mak

ing

som

ethi

ng c

reat

ive

from

them

. Unl

ike

mos

t are

as o

f gra

phic

des

ign,

edi

tori

al

desi

gn is

an

ongo

ing

proj

ect.

It’s

not

a o

ne-o

ff, l

ike

a pi

ece

of p

acka

ging

or

a po

ster

, whe

re y

ou g

et it

all

set

up a

nd

then

hit

the

pri

nt b

utto

n; it

nee

ds t

o de

velo

p. S

o yo

u’re

lo

okin

g fo

r gr

aphi

c de

sign

ers

to c

ome

up w

ith

a st

rong

fu

ncti

onal

bas

is a

nd ru

les,

but

you

’re

also

look

ing

to b

end

thos

e ru

les

on a

dai

ly, w

eekl

y or

mon

thly

bas

is. T

here

has

to

be

a ba

lanc

e be

twee

n th

e fa

mili

ar, s

o pe

ople

rec

ogni

se

the

mag

azin

e th

ey b

ough

t la

st t

ime,

and

sur

pris

e, t

o le

t th

em k

now

it’s

a n

ew is

sue.

ED

ITO

RIA

LD

ES

IGN

Words taken from: www.designcouncil.org.uk/about-design

Page 3: Brief 06 - DC Signature 1

14|

HIG

H E

ND

DE

SIG

NKirsty Hair | Design Context

CO

NT

EN

TS

For

ewor

d

5

Ack

now

led

gem

ents

7

Ch

apte

r 1:

Hig

h E

nd

Des

ign

9

Dev

elop

ing

a br

and

conc

ept l

ogo

11

Gra

phic

Des

ign

for

Fash

ion

12

E

dito

rial

Des

ign

14

Ale

xey

Bro

dovi

tch

16 C

hap

ter

2: D

esig

ner

s &

Stu

dio

s

19

And

rew

Woo

dhea

d

20

In

terv

iew

: Bre

tt P

hilli

ps -

3 D

eep

22

Siln

t

26

In

terv

iew

: Cra

ig W

ard

- Wor

ds a

re P

ictu

res

28

Why

Not

Ass

ocia

tes

32

In

terv

iew

: And

y B

one

- Fou

r IV

34

G

BH

Des

ign

- SLS

Lux

ury

Hot

els

38

Ch

apte

r 3:

Des

ign

Ess

enti

als

41

12

In12

43

Gen

erat

ion

Pres

s

44

An&

Tip

s

48

Con

tact

Det

ails

50

Page 4: Brief 06 - DC Signature 1

4|

HIG

H E

ND

DE

SIG

NKirsty Hair | Design Context

13H

IGH

EN

D D

ESI

GN

|

Whe

ther

a

pure

ly

func

tion

al

vehi

cle

of c

atw

alk

imag

es e

nclo

sed

by a

log

o-em

blaz

oned

co

ver

or

a co

ncep

tual

ex

tens

ion

of

the

colle

ctio

n,

the

look

bo

ok i

s fi r

st a

nd f

orem

ost

a pr

acti

cal

tool

. H

ighl

y co

veta

ble

and

wit

h lim

ited

di

stri

buti

on,

the

seas

onal

boo

klet

s ar

e fr

ee a

nd f

eel

mor

e lik

e a

pers

onal

gift

. N

ot a

vaila

ble

to t

he g

ener

al p

ublic

, th

e lo

ok b

ook

spea

ks t

o a

sele

ct g

roup

of

pres

s, s

tylis

ts, b

uyer

s an

d ph

otog

raph

ers

insi

de th

e fa

shio

n in

dust

ry. W

ith

a ta

rget

au

dien

ce

of

such

co

llect

ive

crea

tive

awar

enes

s,

the

expe

ctat

ions

fo

r th

e gr

aphi

c de

sign

er a

re h

igh.

R

ecen

t te

chno

logy

no

w

faci

litat

es

alm

ost

imm

edia

te

tran

sfer

of

im

ages

di

rect

ly fr

om t

he c

atw

alk

to t

he in

tern

et.

Wit

h th

is

inst

ant

dist

ribu

tion

in

co

njun

ctio

n w

ith

digi

tal

arch

ivin

g, t

he

basi

c fu

ncti

on o

f lo

ok b

ooks

has

bee

n ch

alle

nged

. R

athe

r th

an

mar

gina

lize

the

prac

tice

it h

as g

ener

ated

eve

ry m

ore

inno

vati

ve c

reat

ive

resp

onse

s th

at e

xten

d th

e ca

twal

k ex

peri

ence

.

Words and images taken from: Hess, J. (2010) Graphic Design for Fashion. London: Laurence King.

Page 5: Brief 06 - DC Signature 1

12|

HIG

H E

ND

DE

SIG

NKirsty Hair | Design Context

GR

AP

HIC

DE

SIG

NF

OR

FA

SH

ION

Ent

ry to

the

catw

alk

show

is o

nly

gran

ted

for

a se

lect

few

and

, as

such

, inv

itat

ions

to

the

se e

vent

s ar

e re

stri

cted

and

sig

nify

th

e ex

clus

ivit

y of

the

fas

hion

ind

ustr

y.

Bey

ond

the

prac

tica

l det

ails

of t

he e

vent

, th

is i

s an

opp

ortu

nity

to

stim

ulat

e th

e in

tere

st

in

the

pres

enta

tion

-

for

the

audi

ence

, th

e ex

peri

ence

be

gins

w

ith

the

invi

tati

on.

The

invi

tati

on m

ust

be

rele

vant

to

the

colle

ctio

n bu

t it

mus

t be

ab

stra

ct

to

avoi

d re

veal

ing

too

man

y de

tails

. U

sual

ly v

ery

few

inv

itat

ions

are

pr

oduc

ed, p

rovi

ding

the

grap

hic

desi

gner

w

ith

the

chan

ce

to

expl

ore

spec

ialis

t pr

oduc

tion

te

chni

ques

. A

mbi

tiou

s,

crea

tive

sol

utio

ns i

nevi

tabl

y ha

ng u

pon

last

-min

ute

date

and

tim

e co

nfi r

mat

ion.

E

very

thin

g m

ust

com

e to

geth

er i

n th

e ti

ghte

st o

f all

fash

ion

dead

lines

. The

mos

t su

cces

sful

invi

tatio

n tr

ansc

end

thei

r br

ief

purp

ose

and

beco

me

cher

ishe

d m

emen

tos

of th

e ev

ent.

Ther

e is

a s

impl

icit

y to

the

mos

t ef

fect

ive

bran

ding

tha

t be

lies i

ts u

nder

lyin

g co

mpl

exit

y. M

ore

than

an

iden

tifi a

ble

logo

, br

andi

ng i

s co

nsid

ered

a p

rom

ise,

an

expe

rien

ce

and

a m

emor

y. T

he m

essa

ge m

ust

com

mun

icat

e th

e am

biti

on o

f the

labe

l and

the

pers

onal

and

soc

ial b

enefi

ts

of a

ssoc

iati

on. T

he n

atur

e of

fas

hion

ele

vate

s as

pira

tion

ab

ove

auth

enti

city

. C

ompe

titi

on i

s fi e

rce

and

grow

ing:

th

e co

nsum

er i

s bo

mba

rded

wit

h hu

ndre

ds o

f br

ande

d m

essa

ges

ever

y da

y. T

he c

halle

nge

lies

in c

ontr

ollin

g th

ese

very

inta

ngib

le e

lem

ents

wit

h ve

ry ta

ngib

le m

eans

.

5FO

RE

WO

RD

|

This

aim

of t

his

book

was

to c

olla

te a

ran

ge o

f opi

nion

s, th

ough

ts

and

case

stu

dies

from

des

ign

stud

ios

that

cre

ate

wor

k fo

r the

hig

h en

d, to

act

as

a so

urce

of i

nspi

rati

on fo

r fut

ure

refe

renc

e, a

nd a

lso

to m

ark

whe

re m

y pr

acti

ce li

es a

t thi

s m

omen

t in

tim

e.

Look

ing

at h

igh

end

desi

gn fo

r br

andi

ng a

nd p

ublic

atio

n, fo

r th

e fa

shio

n, l

uxur

y an

d lif

esty

le s

ecto

rs,

I ai

med

to fi n

d ou

t m

ore

abou

t thi

s sw

iftly

cha

ngin

g su

bjec

t, fr

om s

ome

of th

e be

st d

esig

n st

udio

s in

the

fi el

d. T

he s

tudi

os I

hav

e ch

osen

to

inve

stig

ate

are

sim

ply

the

ones

that

insp

ire

me

pers

onal

ly, a

nd h

ave

done

sin

ce I

bega

n m

y st

udio

s, th

eref

ore

does

not

take

in a

full

and

fair

ran

ge

need

ed to

dra

w c

oncl

usio

ns o

n th

is la

rge

topi

c, o

nly

obse

rvat

ions

.

Thes

e in

spir

atio

nal p

eopl

e ar

e w

ho I

hav

e lo

oked

at f

or g

uida

nce

on a

dai

ly b

asis

, and

so

it h

as b

een

a pl

easu

re t

o br

ing

them

all

toge

ther

in

this

boo

k as

a c

eleb

rati

on o

f th

e w

ork

that

, in

my

opin

ion,

has

bee

n th

e le

adin

g lig

hts.

It i

s th

e cl

ose

atte

ntio

n to

det

ail,

aest

heti

c qu

alit

y an

d th

e ca

re

and

effo

rt t

hat

is p

ut i

nto

desi

gn f

or t

he h

igh

end,

tha

t m

akes

it

som

ethi

ng I

am

dra

wn

to. I

t is

not

onl

y th

e fi n

ishe

d pr

oduc

t th

at in

tere

sts

me,

but

als

o th

e cr

eati

ve d

esig

n pr

oces

s as

a w

hole

, w

hen

desi

gnin

g fo

r the

fash

ion,

luxu

ry a

nd li

fest

yle

sect

ors m

eans

co

mpl

etel

y im

mer

sing

you

rsel

f in

the

cult

ure.

FO

RE

WO

RD

Page 6: Brief 06 - DC Signature 1

6|

HIG

H E

ND

DE

SIG

NKirsty Hair | Design Context

11H

IGH

EN

D D

ESI

GN

|

Wha

t is

the

mos

t im

port

ant t

hing

you

w

ant t

o sa

y ab

out w

hat

you’

re g

oing

to p

rese

nt?

Who

are

you

co

mm

unic

atin

g w

ith?

St

uden

ts, t

each

ers,

pe

ople

wit

h lo

ts o

f tim

e,

som

eone

pas

sing

by?

Onc

e yo

u ha

ve w

hat t

he

mos

t im

port

ant t

hing

is,

how

are

you

tryi

ng to

say

th

is?

Are

peo

ple

fam

iliar

wit

h w

hat y

ou a

re p

rese

ntin

g?

Wha

t is

the

hist

ory

of

the

peop

le/t

hing

bei

ng

pres

ente

d?

DE

VE

LO

PIN

G A

BR

AN

DC

ON

CE

PT

LO

GO

Ther

e ar

e a

few

thi

ngs

that

sho

uld

be c

onsi

dere

d w

hen

deve

lopi

ng a

bra

nd c

once

pt l

ogo,

and

a f

ew q

uest

ions

th

at s

houl

d be

add

ress

ed,

to e

nsur

e th

e re

solu

tion

will

re

ach

its

full

pote

ntia

l and

req

uire

men

ts.

Wha

t ton

e or

att

itud

e do

yo

u w

ant t

o co

nvey

?

Wha

t is

the

emot

iona

l co

nnec

tion

and

how

do

you

mak

e it

res

onat

e w

ith

them

?

Wha

t do

you

wan

t pe

ople

to th

ink

of th

e ti

ng b

eing

pre

sent

ed?

Whe

re w

ill th

is b

e re

pres

ente

d an

d ho

w

can

you

mak

e it

sta

nd

out f

orm

oth

er th

ings

pr

esen

ted

in th

e sa

me

way

?

Wha

t is

in it

for

the

dem

ogra

phic

?

Words taken from: www.conceptgenius.com/brand-logo-concept-development

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NKirsty Hair | Design Context

“Pro

du

cts

are

crea

ted

in t

he

fact

ory.

Bra

nd

s ar

e cr

eate

d in

th

e m

ind

.”

- Wa

lter

La

nd

or

7A

CK

NO

WLE

DG

EM

EN

TS |

AC

KN

OW

LE

DG

EM

EN

TS

I w

ould

lik

e to

giv

e a

spec

ial

than

k yo

u to

the

des

ign

stud

ios

and

desi

gner

s w

ho g

ot i

n to

uch

and

took

the

tim

e to

ans

wer

m

y qu

esti

ons.

You

hav

e of

fere

d m

e a

real

and

fi rs

t ha

nd in

sigh

t in

to t

he w

orki

ngs

of y

our

stud

ios

and

to w

hat

desi

gnin

g fo

r th

e hi

gh e

nd e

ntai

ls.

This

has

allo

wed

me

to l

earn

mor

e ab

out

the

disc

iplin

e in

whi

ch I

hav

e en

tere

d, a

nd t

he s

ecto

rs t

hat

I am

in

tere

sted

in d

esig

ning

for.

You

incl

ude:

Bre

tt P

hilli

ps- 3

Dee

p

Cra

ig W

ard

- Wor

ds

are

Pic

ture

s

And

y B

one

- Fou

r IV

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NKirsty Hair | Design Context8

| H

IGH

EN

D D

ESI

GN

Kirsty Hair | Design Context

9H

IGH

EN

D D

ESI

GN

|

HIG

H E

ND

DE

SIG

N

9H

IGH

EN

D D

ESI

GN

|

HIG

H E

ND

DE

SIG

N