biksady 7genia rubin

7/27/2019 Biksady 7Genia Rubin

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Genia Rubin

Jewgeni Germanowitsch Rubin

(Kijev, 1906) - (Prizs, 2001. februr 15.)

Festmvsz, fotmvsz, r.Genia Rubin 1906-ban Kijevben szletett. Apja,

German Rubin (18751955) hivatalnok s vl-lalkoz volt, aki kpkereskedssel is foglal-kozott. Genia atal veit Jekatyerinburgbans Moszkvban tlttte. Els munkja, mely amvszvilg elktelezett rajongjv tette aSztanyiszlavszkij ltal vezetett Opera Stdihoz

kthet, ahol 1926-ban gyakornoki idejt tltt-te s dszlettervez asszisztensknt dolgozott.Genia Rubin 1927-ben hagyta el Oroszorszgots Berlinbe utazott. Az AGFA trsasgnl foto-technikai ismereteket sajttott el. Segdopera-

trknt csatlakozott a vilghr operatr, KarlFreund stbjhoz is. 19291931 kztt Prizs-ban lt, ahol a Path stdijnak egyik fotogr-fusa lett. Rviddel, franciaorszgi tartzkodsautn visszatrt Berlinbe s megnyitotta sajt

fotmtermt a Kurfrstendamm Strassen. Ittismerkedett meg Franz Wolfgang Koeberrel, akiprtfogsba vette a atal tehetsget s fotogr-fus llst knlt neki a Magazin s az EleganteWelt lapoknl. Ngy vvel ezutn, 1935-ben

vglegesen Prizsban telepedett le. Fots karri-erje igazn ebben az idszakban bontakozott ki.Olyan divatlapok alkalmaztk, mint a Femina,a korban rivalizl Vogue s Harpers Bazaar,vagy a londoni Daily Express. A divatfotzsutn francia, angol s olasz kastlyok, kertek,parkok ltkpt is megrktette a Jardin desmodes s a Maison et jardin szmra.


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Plyja alakulsban fontos szerepet jtszottaz 1939-as v, amikor tallkozott tvoli roko-nval, Vaszilij Kandinszkijjal. sztnzte arraGeniat, hogy festszettel s rajzzal is foglal-kozzon. Miutn ndr Bretonnal is bartsgotktttek kzvetlen kapcsolatba kerlt a kortrsfestszet jelents alakjaival is. 1947-ben fest-mnyeit s akvarelljeit mutatta be a Nemzetkzi

Szrrealista Killtson a prizsi Maeght Gal-riban. 1959-tl kizrlag a modern festszet-nek szentelte lett mint mvsz s mgyjtegyarnt. Ebben az vben nyitotta meg sajtgalrijt Prizsban. 1975-ben rendezte els

egyni killtst a prizsi Galerie Vialetayban,ahol korai kubo-futurizmus ihlette munkit mu-

tatta be. 1976-ban rszt vett a Kortrs OroszMvszeti Killts megszervezsben a prizsiKongresszusi Palotban. Az 197080-as vek-

ben csoportos s egyni killtsokon vett rsztPrizsban, Londonban, Bzelben, Freiburgban,Gteborgban, Berlinben s Zrichben, aholfestmnyeit, grakit s fotit is elrhetv tet-te a nagykznsg szmra. 1979-ben a lyoni

Casanova Galriban szerveztk meg Miha-il Shemjakinnal kzs killtsukat. A hosszvek alatt irodalmi munkkat is jegyzett, Jev-genyij Reisz ( ) lnven regnyek,esszk, visszaemlkezsek szerzje. 2000-benadta ki sszegyjttt visszaemlkezseit Az nutam ( ) cmen. 2010-ben a mvszzvegye Alla Szergejevna er-bramova az alaptvnyra (Russian State Archive ofLiterature and Art) hagyta a mvsz sszes do-kumentumt, levelt, fotjt s az 19701980-as vekbl szrmaz 42 darab festmnyt.


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Rgztett elegancia

A Biksady Galria, Genia Rubin divatfoti-

nak vlogatsbl kvn betekintst nyjtaniaz 1930-as vekben kialakul, j fottrtnetiszempontbl jelents mfajba, a divatfot vi-lgba. Az emltett, akkor mg gyerekcipbenjr fnykpszeti stlus a divatmagazinok smozik npszersgnek nvekedsvel nyertegyre nagyobb terletet. Az els ilyen jellegillusztrcikon elssorban a portrfotzs mo-dora rvnyeslt. Ez a merev, ksrletez bell-tsi forma vlt folyamatosan egyre rzkibb aniessg hangslyozsval valamint a korszak

csbt luxusmrkinak bemutatsval.A fotogrnak ezt a vlfajt ekkoriban leginkbba szrrealizmus vilga s a grg szobrokmerevsge ihlette. Genia Rubin itt bemutatottmunki jl illeszthetek abba a sorba, melyetGeorge Hoyningen-Huene sorozatai indtottakel. Klnsen meggyelhetek ezek a saj-tossgok Genia torzkbl komponlt ltvnyvi-lgaiban, vagy a nvnyi dekorcit alkalmazdszleteiben. A killtsban egy ilyen kialaktskrnyezetben lthatjuk a fots egyik kedvenc

modelljt Lisa Fonssagriveot, aki egy Alix Bar-ton ruhamodellt visel. Az archaikus statikussgdiktlta azt a fajta trendet, amely a korszakbantervezett ltzkek elegancijt s nomsgtmg inkbb kifejezte. Ez a szemllet emelte ki adivatfot mfajt a htkznapisg keretei kzl,

helyezte piedesztlra, majd vltoztatta eszm-nykpp a modelleket. A kifejezsmd clja ug-yanis egyfajta fldn tli idel brzolsa volt,mely az elrhetetlensg kpzett keltve elr-zkenyti s rajongsra knyszerti a befogad

kznsget. A feminin stlusjegyek dominnsalkalmazsa sztnzte a nagyvrosi, elegnsnszerepek rgzdst is. Az eszttikailag foko-zott kinomultsggal kialaktott enterirk illetveaz exkluzv vagy egzotikus terek mg vonzbbavanzsltk a npszersteni kvnt ltzeteket.

Ez a felfogs jut rvnyre a Jeanne Paquin l-tal tervezett viseletet bemutat sorozaton is.Az vek mlsval, valamint kt korszakalkotmagazin, a Harpers Bazaar s a Vogue versen-gsnek ksznheten a mfajon bell foko-

zatos alakuls s fejlds gyelhet meg. Etekintetben emltsre mlt Martin Munkcsitrekvse, aki azzal forradalmastotta a divat-fotzs evolcijt, hogy modelljeit a szabadbanfotzta, akr klnbz testmozgsok vgzsekzben, mellyel a szabadsg kpzett keltette.

Genia Rubin munkirt nemcsak a legnevesebbmagazinok, de a leghresebb modellek is rival-izltak.


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Olyan nevezetessgek lltak lencsje el, minta mr emltett kedvenc mzsja, Lisa Fons-sagrive, vagy Ira de Pauline grfn, de maga

Windsor hercegn is. A bemutatott mrkkkzl kln gyelmet rdemel a Dior, a MadameAlix Grs, a Balenciaga, a Mainbocher vagya Chanel termkekkel veteked Schiaparelliviseletetek.

Genia Rubin

Jewgeni Germanowitsch Rubin (Kijev, 1906) - (Prizs, 2001. februr 15.)

Painter, photographer, litterateur. Genia Rubinwas born in 1906, in Kiev. His father, GermanRubin (18751955) was a clerk and an entre-

preneur, who also worked as an art dealer dur-ing his emmigration. Genia spent his youth inYekaterinburg and Moskow. His rst workplace- which made him become a dedicated fan ofthe artistic world - was the Opera Studio leadby Stanislavski. Genia Rubin spent his traineeperiod there in 1926, working as an assistant setdecorateur. He left Russia in 1927 and travelledto Berlin.


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At the AGFA company he acquired knowledge inthe eld of photographic techniques. He joinedthe staff of the famous Karl Freund as an as-

sistant cinematographer. Between 19291931he lived in Paris, where he started to work asa photographer for the Path studio. Afterwardshe returned to Berlin and opened his own studioin Kurfrstendamm Strasse. Here he met FranzWolfgang Koeber, who patronized the young tal-ent and offered him a job as a photographer forthe reviews Magazin and Elegante Welt. Fouryear later he eventually settled in Paris. His ca-reer as a photographer really evolved in this pe-riod. He worked for fashion magazines such as:

Femina, for the big-name glossy rivals Vogueand Harpers Bazaar, as well as for the DailyExpress based in London. The fashion photog-raphy was followed by shots of French, Englishand Italian castles, gardens, parcs for the Jardindes modes and for the Maison et jardin. The year1939 was very important for the development ofhis career, at that time he met his distant rela-tive, Wassily Kandinski. He encouraged Geniato deal with painting and drawing. His friendshipwith ndr Breton lead to direct contacts to the

signicant painters of the age. Genia displayedhis paintings and watercolors in 1947 at the In-ternational Surrealist Exhibition in the MaeghtGallery in Paris. Starting with 1959 he dedicatedhis whole life to the modern painting as an artistas well as a collector. In this year he opened his

own gallery in Paris. In 1975, he organized hisrst personal exhibition in the Vialetay Gallery inParis, where he presented his works inspired bythe early cubo-futurism. In 1976, he took part inthe organization of the Contemporary Russian

Art Exhibition in the Congress Palace in Paris.In the years 1970-1980 he participated to groupor solo exhibitions organized in Paris, London,Basel, Freiburg, Gteborg, Berlin and Zrich,where the audience had access to his paint-ings, graphics and photos. In 1979, Genia Ru-

bin and Mikhail Shemyakin organized their com-mon exhibition in the Casanova Gallery in Lyon.Over the years, he also wrote novels, essaysand memoirs under the pseudonym YevgeniyReis ( ). In 2000, he published

his collected memoirs in a book entitled Myway ( ). Ten years later, his widow AllaSzergeyevna er-bramova left all his docu-ments, letters, photos and the 42 paintings fromthe years 1970-1980 to the Foundation(Russian State Archive of Literature and Art).


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Eternalized elegance

Biksady Gallery aims at presenting a collection

of Genia Rubins fashion photos that illustratethe signicant genre of the new history of pho-tography developing in the 1930s, namely theworld of fashion photography. This photographicgenre - then in its infancy - increasingly spreadthanks to the growing popularity of fashion mag-

azines and cinemas. In the rst works of art ofthe genre the portrait manner prevailed.This rigid, experimental setup became stead-ily more sensual by emphasizing femininity andby presenting the allure of the luxury brands ofthe age. This kind of photography was inspiredat that time especially by the surrealistic worldand the immobility of the Greek statues. GeniaRubins works on display here match the styleillustrated in George Hoyningen-Huenes se-ries. These features are signicant in Genias

visual world composed of torsos or in his setsdecorated with plants. This exhibition displaysone of his favourite models wearing an Alix Bar-ton dress and placed in such a set. The archa-ic static Lisa Fonssagrives style inspired thattrend, which better displayed the elegance and

subtlety of design clothing of the epoche. Thisapproach highlighted the genre of fashion pho-tography and placed it on a pedestal, and lateron transformed models into paragons. The aimof this means of expression was to illustrate akind of unearthly ideal, which made the audi-

ence sensitive and forced them to idolatry bycreating a sense of unavailability. The prevail-ing use of feminine characteristics enforced theurban, feminine roles. The interiors displaying arened aesthetic sense respectively the exclu-sive or exotic spaces made the presented cloth-ing more alluring. This approach is illustratedby the series of shots representing clothing de-signed by Jeanne Paquin. Over the years, dueto the rivalisation between the two top fashionmagazines Vogue and Harpers Bazaar, the

genre transformed and developed. Thereforeit is worth mentioning here Martin Munkcsisname, who revolutioned the fashion photogra-phy byleaving the studio for shooting outdoors,his models were even in motion, thus emphasiz-ing the feeling of freeedom.

Not only the leading magazines rivalized for Ge-nia Rubins works, but even the most famousmodels. It was not only his favourite muse LisaFonssagrives we have already mentioned thatstood in front of his lens, but Countess Ira dePauline and even the Duchess of Windsor. From

the brandnames he presented worth mentioningare Dior, Madame Alix Grs, Balenciaga, Main-bocher, as well as Schiaparelli, that competedwith the Chanel products.


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biksady 7genia rubin

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