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Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic 9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268

www.exoticvetclinic.com (317) 879-8633

Yearly Check Ups for Birds Birds benefit greatly from regular veterinary check ups. Since birds commonly mask signs of illness for as long as possible, a regular yearly veterinary exam is important to help detect problems early and to establish a normal “baseline” for your bird. At the Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic we recommend the following as a part of your bird’s yearly check up:

1. Complete physical examination by an experienced avian veterinarian. 2. Accurate measurement of your bird’s weight. A drop in weight can

be a very early indicator of illness, long before other signs of illness appear.

3. Fecal and choanal cytology. This microscopic examination of a swab from your bird’s mouth and from feces can detect unusual bacteria, yeast or other fungal organisms, red or white blood cells, parasites and other abnormalities

4. Hematocrit and total serum solids. A single drop of blood collected from your bird allows us to estimate protein levels and detect anemia, another early indicator of illness.

If any abnormalities are detected, additional testing can be done immediately to pinpoint your bird’s medical problem so that treatment can begin as soon as possible. The following actual examples from cases seen over the last few years may help illustrate the benefits of yearly exams for birds:

1. A three year old female cockatiel is presented for her yearly check up. Upon weighing her is discovered she has lost nearly 15 grams from her previous weight, and has lost breast muscle mass. She is also mildly anemic. Her drastic weight was not apparent to her owners since feathers conceal thinness. Her behavior at home is completely normal. Additional testing reveal a bacterial infection and antibiotics are prescribed at once.

2. Three Amazon parrots present for their yearly check ups. All three are found to have significant yeast infections although they appear completely normal. The birds are started on yeast medication at once.

3. An Amazon parrot presented for yearly check up has gained nearly 80 grams since last year and is quite obese. It is revealed that the spouse of the bird’s owner feels sorry for the bird and has been giving him large amounts of sunflower seeds. The owners are encouraged to get the bird’s diet back on track, and obesity related disease is hopefully prevented.

Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic 9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268 Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian

(317) 879-8633

IS MY BIRD SICK?

Birds, like all our pets, are susceptible to a variety of bacterial, viral and fungal infections. But, unlike mammals that usually act sick when they are feeling bad, birds try very hard to hide their illness. In the wild, birds are part of a flock and an ill or injured bird would attract the attention of predators, thereby endangering the whole flock. They often maintain this “I’m okay” attitude until they are critically ill. As a result, many bird owners need to be aware of small, subtle changes that may signal illness. So how will you know if your bird is ill? Start by observing and making a mental note of your healthy bird’s normal behavior and habits. Once you know normal, it will be easier to spot abnormal. Let’s look at some of the things on your “check list”: Behavior: This will probably give you your first hint that something is not right. A normal bird is active, vocal and interested in its surroundings. A sick bird may also act this way when you are present, but not when it is alone. So, look around the corner to observe your bird before it sees you. A sick bird would be fluffed up, sitting in one spot and appearing sleepy. It may even be sitting on the cage bottom. A sick bird is usually quieter than normal, not talking or screaming. A sick bird may want more petting than usual or a usual cuddly bird may not want to be touched. It is the change in behavior and patterns that tell you something is wrong. Droppings: A normal bird dropping has three components. The dark, solid portion is feces. The white part is urates. The clear liquid portion is urine. The color of the solid portion may change, depending on what it has eaten. However, the volume and firmness should remain the same. A lack of solid consistency to the feces is true diarrhea, and is cause for concern. The white portion should always be white. Changes in urate color may indicate disease or poisoning. The amount of clear urine may increase with high fluid intake or as a result of disease. One or two abnormal droppings are usually nothing to worry about, but consistently abnormal droppings over an entire day or two would warrant a call to the vet. Blood in the droppings is always abnormal. Appetite: Many birds will maintain their appetite until the day they die. However some ill birds will eat only one food. Some will gorge on grit if it available (it shouldn’t be). Others will stop eating altogether. Occasionally a bird will drink a lot but not eat. Body condition: Pick up bird and run your finger down the center of the breast. You should be able to feel the keel bone running from chest to abdomen. A healthy bird should have muscle on either side of the bone. A bird that has lost weight will have a very “pointy” sharp chest. Do this on your healthy bird so you will know how normal feels. The bottom line is, if you suspect that something is wrong, call your vet and ask about what is concerning you. Your bird is depending on you.


(317) 879-8633

Household Hazards for Birds

Some of the most potent dangers to birds lurk in unexpected places in items you use everyday. You are responsible for your bird’s safety and knowing these household hazards will allow your bird to live a long, healthy life. Kitchen dangers: The most common and dangerous hazards! A hot stove or a sink full of water pose threats to your bird as do chemicals and kitchen appliances. Protect the contents of the cabinets and ensure that drawers are not ajar. Be aware that open pots with water may look like a nice place to take a bath or drink; your bird will not anticipate that they are scalding hot. Teflon, Fumes and Smoke: Anything that you can smell is dangerous to your bird. Smoke, aerosols, paint fumes, some markers, hobby glues, pesticides, insecticides, herbicides, cleaning products, disinfectants, and bleach can easily kill your bird through inhalation. Even fumes you cannot smell can harm your bird. Carbon monoxide is odorless and colorless and is dangerous to humans and birds alike. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is a chemical used to make nonstick pots and pans, irons, and curling irons. This is also known as Teflon and once heated to over 530oF the chemical breaks down and creates acid fumes that can kill your bird within minutes even if your bird is in another room. Medicines and bathroom hazards: Birds often see small objects as food and they are often very curious animals. This makes them prone to eating pills or medications. Prevent accidents by keeping all medications locked up. Toilet bowls are another bathroom hazard. Be sure to leave lids closed because birds can accidentally drown if they inadvertently fall in. Other hazards in the bathroom include hair spray, deodorants, drain cleaner, rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover, perfumes, soaps and sun tan lotions. Unhealthy treats: Chocolate, coffee, tea, and soda should be kept away from your bird. Alcohol can kill you bird even if it takes a small amount. Avocados can cause ---olve problems. Also, do not leave tobacco or tobacco products where your birds can get to them. Heavy metals: Lead, cadmium, mercury, copper, and zinc poisoning are very common in birds. Curiosity coupled with the need to chew to keep their beaks strong can make ingesting a toxic substance very easy. These metals can be found in drapery weights, mini-blinds, batteries, toys weighted with lead, screens, wire mesh, costume jewelry, aluminum solder, thermometers, some dishes and mugs, some disinfectants, and some antifungals. Be sure to read labels carefully! Open windows and doors: Even if your doors and windows have screens, remember that birds like to perch on top of open doors and windows, and can be injured when those doors and windows are closed. Birds can be caught in closing doors or can fly into screens or windows. Clipping your bird’s wings will decrease the chance of injury by flying into closed windows or doors. Furnishings: This includes finished wood, ceiling fans, drawer pulls, hinges, and ornaments. The paint or finish can harm your bird and the pulls or hinges can contain heavy metals as discussed above. Again clipping your bird’s wings can prevent ceiling fan injuries by not allowing them to fly into the spinning blades.


(317) 879-8633

PET BIRD NUTRITION

Poor nutrition in pet birds is a major contributor to both disease and a shortened lifespan. It is easy for a new bird owner to be confused by the huge array of bird food and treats available. Unfortunately, many of the ‘complete bird foods’ on the market consist mostly of or all seed plus vitamins. This alone is not a complete diet, and will lead to malnutrition in most pet bird species. The absolute nutritional requirements of many species of birds are not known, but it is generally accepted that birds require the same types of nutrients that other animals do. Studies of pet birds species in the wild show these birds eat a wide variety of foods including leaves, buds, berries, and insects. Some larger species are even known to eat smaller animals and birds! Seeds and grains are eaten by parrots in the wild, but these natural seeds are completely different from those grown in North America. Parrots in the wild perform high levels of aerobic exercise which requires a diet high in fat. Captive parrots simply cannot perform at this level of exercise, therefore do not need high quantities of fat. The Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic recommends a diet of 80% formulated pellets, with about 20% well chosen healthy table foods. We do not recommend seeds and nuts as a regular part of a parrot’s diet. Pelleted Bird Diets: A number of manufacturers are offering pelleted diets believed to contain all of the nutrients pet birds need. Several companies offer a complete line of pellets for birds from finches to large parrots. These pellets offer an advantage to bird owners who are often too busy to prepare homemade diets for their birds. Pellets are less messy and there are fewer problems with spoilage. Converting a seed junkie bird to a pelleted diet can be a challenge. The most successful method involves putting the pellets in the food dish that normally holds the seed mix. In a smaller, separate dish, offer the customary diet on an every-other-day basis (for larger birds) or every evening (for smaller birds). At first the ‘pellets only’ days, the bird will most likely refuse to try the unaccustomed food. Determination is needed on the owner’s part at this point, as the bird is likely to beg for its usual fare. It may take several weeks to months to get a stubborn bird to try pelleted diets. Once you see that the bird has begun to sample the pellets, begin a slow phasing out of the seeds until they are no longer a regular part of the bird’s diet. Seeds may still be given occasionally as treats or as a reward for good behavior. Favorite table foods also make good treats. Don’t give in to the temptation to return to seeds as a regular part of the diet, as your pet’s future health and longevity are at stake. The diet we recommend is a combination of pellets (80%) and nutritious table foods (20%). Pellets are available at all times, or better yet hidden in toys for the bird to forage, and well-balanced table foods are offered 1-2 times per day, ideally as part of social eating with human members of the flock..

It should be noted that most breeders of companion birds are now weaning their babies onto pellets and table foods, and the problem of converting birds that have been eating a predominately seed diet will hopefully become a thing of the past. Select supplemental table foods from the list:

A. Grains, Breads and Cereals: Whole grain breads, cooked brown rice, pasta, nutritious cereals (no or low sugar), other whole grains. Seeds are also included in this category, but should be limited as most seeds are particularly high in fat.

B. Vegetables and Greens: Good choices include dark leafy green vegetables such as broccoli, kale, endive, parsley, and dark yellow or orange vegetables such as carrots, sweet potatoes, and squash. Birds also like corn, green beans, and legumes (cooked).

C. Dairy, Meat and Fruit: Small amounts of yogurt, and hard cheeses. Lean meats such as cooked chicken and fish. Cooked eggs are also a favorite. Larger parrots enjoy chewing chicken bones. Fruit favorites are grapes, apples and melon.

Diets for Special Nutritional Requirements: African Grey Parrots need additional calcium in their diets, and current research suggest exposure to full spectrum UV lighting is important as well. Some pelleted foods are made specifically for Greys with added calcium. Other sources are cheese, broccoli and chicken bones. Lories and Lorikeets need special diets, most commonly provided in a nectar type formula. Some pelleted formulas are on the market, but at this time it is not clear exactly how nutritionally complete these diets are. Mynah Birds and Toucans require a special low-iron diet. The Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic recommends the following formulated diets for pet parrots:

1. Harrison’s Bird Foods www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com 2. Zupreem www.zupreem.com 3. Pretty Bird www.prettybird.com 4. Labeber’s Bird Food www.lafeber.com


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From Twinkies to Table Foods Methods for Changing Your Bird’s Diet

You’ve heard us say that seeds are the “twinkies and french fries” of the bird diet. You know that your bird should be getting a variety of table foods and pellets. Unfortunately, birds are creatures of habit, and the unusual appearance of new foods is enough to make them not want to try it. So how do you get your bird to change his or her diet? The first thing that you should know is to never attempt to change the diet of a sick or stressed bird. Sick or stressed birds could very easily quit eating all together; therefore, this is not a good time to introduce new foods. Wait for a few weeks after bringing a new bird into your home or until a sick bird is well before introducing new foods. Once you are ready to start the process of changing your bird’s diet, here are a few methods that you may try to help coax your bird into trying new foods. When attempting any of these methods, remember to make sure that your bird is eating something. A change in diet will not be helpful if your bird becomes ill from not eating. Weigh your bird frequently and palpate your bird’s keel often (our staff can show you how) to make sure that your bird is not losing weight. NEVER attempt to convert a bird “cold turkey”. Unless the bird accepts the new food immediately, this technique carries a high risk of serious illness or death. Eat with your bird. This is the easiest and most successful method. Birds are flock eaters. Set your bird at or near your table during your meals. Let your bird see you eat the foods that you are offering to him or her. Another successful tactic is to let the bird eat straight off your plate. Offer food in a variety of forms. Birds are picky eaters, as are many of us. Some birds may like a food fixed one way, but not another. Give your bird choices. For example, offer vegetables cooked and raw, as shavings and chopped. Mix the new food with the seeds or another liked item. This may work with some birds. Most birds will simply pick out and eat only seeds; this will not accomplish your goal. Other birds will not eat the new foods or the seeds that they have been mixed with. Watch your bird closely to make sure that it is eating something. If your bird happens to like a soft food such as baby food, oatmeal, or cream of wheat, mix the unfamiliar food with the soft food and gradually decrease the amount of the soft food. Feed your bird somewhere new. Offer the new items to your bird from somewhere other than his or her seed dish. Try to place the new food next to a favorite toy or on the back of the couch where the bird likes to perch. Restrict the amount of seeds that you are feeding. Offer your bird only about half of the amount of seeds that he or she normally eats in a day in addition to the new foods. Watch carefully to be sure the bird is eating and producing plenty of stools.

Sprout the seeds. Sprouting the seeds may help in the transition from seeds to vegetables. To sprout seeds soak them in water overnight. Place the seeds in a jar covered with netting. Rinse the seeds with water 2-3 times daily. Keep the jar in a warm environment. This process will take 2-5 days. Rinse the spouts several times in cold water and store in the refrigerator. Remove all seeds. Seeds can be removed from your bird’s cage for periods of time varying on your bird’s size and health. Smaller birds should have their seed removed only every other day; larger birds may require the removal of seeds for up to 2 days at a time. This method of conversion should be done only with adult healthy birds and under the direct supervision of a veterinarian. Hospitalization: Some owners have their birds hospitalized when they cannot get their pet to convert to a better diet. This method allows our staff to carefully observe the bird, weigh the bird daily, and to tube or assist feed if necessary. The transition of your bird’s diet from a complete seed diet to a healthy diet of a variety of table foods and pellets can be quite a challenging experience. It is essential, however, to ensure the well-being of your pet. Patience is the key. Do not expect this change to occur overnight. If you have any questions or need any advice, feel free to contact our staff. We are here to help.


(317) 879-8633

Forming a Proper Bond with Pet Parrots Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic of Indianapolis

In the wild, parrots form three kinds of bonds: social bonds with flock members, a monogamous pair bond with a potential mate, and a mated pair that produce young. Birds raised with humans can form the same bonds. Characteristics of social bonds:

• Birds feed and shelter together in flocks. • Birds maintain minimal distance between each other. • Bird occasionally preen each other for brief amounts of time.

Characteristics of monogamous pairs:

• Begin to spend more time together. • Increased amounts of preening. • Begin to seek out and defend a nest site. • Begin courtship regurgitation. • Initiate mating behavior.

Characteristics of a mating pair:

• Spend time exclusively with each other. • Aggressively defend nest site. • Aggressively drive off other flock members.

Ideally owners maintain only social bonds with pet parrots. Monogamous pair bonds and mated pair bonds often lead to undesirable behaviors. These include: Attempting to drive off or bite other human members of the household. Aggressively defending perceived “nesting sites” such as cages, boxes, etc. Increased regurgitation and mating behaviors. Screaming and agitation when separated from human “mate” Sexual frustration and feather plucking. Ways to maintain a social pair bond and discourage other bonds: Encourage all family member s to interact with the bird regularly and equally. Schedule times for the bird to meet and interact with willing strangers, Limit petting to brief, non-intense episodes, such as occasionally scratching the head. Maintain proper “social distance” for most interactions with the bird. Discourage all regurgitation or masturbating behavior. Remove any perceived nest site or nesting materials. Replace reproductive behaviors with trick training (see “Target Training” for Birds.)


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How Should I Play With My Bird?

In the wild, pet parrots are known to be extremely social, gregarious and perform behaviors that to human observers appear to be play. As this is an important part of the natural behavior of birds in the wild, owners should replicate this as well as possible to help improve the captive bird’s mental welfare. Unfortunately for some birds, a human’s idea of or attempts at play can be misunderstood as courtship or reproductive behaviors, which in some birds can lead to a number of undesirable and unhealthy consequences, including screaming, biting, preferring the company of only one human, improper molt and in some cases feather plucking. Misunderstanding occurs when humans try to interact with pet parrots as they would a pet dog or cat, as the behaviors of these species among others of their kind are very different. Desirable play activities attempt to reproduce and enforce behaviors seen in non-mating flocks of social birds. Undesirable play activities tend to reinforce behaviors seen in mated pairs, which for most owners are not desirable, as mated birds tend to be secretive, drive off other flock members, and, mate. When a parrot perceives a human being as a mate, the bird may bite other family members, defend the cage or other favorite spots from intruders, scream when the preferred person leaves the room, and demonstrate masturbating and other mating behaviors. The following desirable play activities tend to replicate social parrot behavior. The undesirable play activities in some cases replicate pair bond or mating behavior Desirable Play Activities Undesirable Play Activities Step up and step down onto various perches on command for all family members and confident strangers

Perching on human shoulders or head

Staying on perch or play gym when placed there

Leaving perch or play gym to explore the house on own

Social vocalization-talking, singing Constant screaming Social eating-sharing food items with other human flock members

Taking foods directly from human mouth (simulates courtship feeding)

Trick training, clicker training with food rewards

Intense cuddling with owner, for example under clothing

Limited social grooming-occasional scratch on head or under wings

Long periods of grooming by owners, especially near tail

Exploring toys and other safe novel objects Masturbating with humans or toys Foraging behaviors-toys or objects that replicate searching for food items

Nesting in boxes, or other materials

Meeting and socializing with unfamiliar but friendly humans

Interacting exclusively or even mostly with only one family member

Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic

9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268 Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian

(317) 879-8633

Target Training for Birds

Target training is a fun and easy technique used to encourage desired behaviors such as entering a carrier or even trick training. In brief, the goal is to get the bird to willingly go to a target in anticipation of a reward. Before you can begin you need 3 things:

1. A target, which should be a readily available easily identified object that the bird normally would not see outside of training. Suggestions are: a chopstick, an unusually colored and/or shaped toy, a bell, etc.

2. A clicker, available at most larger pet stores 3. A reward that the bird really enjoys, never gets any other time, and can be

consumed very quickly. Suggestions are 1/2 shelled sunflower seed, tiny bit of popcorn or dried fruit.

To begin, place the bird on a tabletop and place the target some distance away. Wait for the bird to approach the target and touch it with his beak. Immediately click, praise and offer the reward. Repeat until the bird learns touching the target means a reward. In summary:

• Bird touches the target • Bird hears a click • Bird gets a verbal and treat reward at the same time he hears the click • Bird associates target and click with reward • Bird seeks out target to get a reward • Owner uses target to shape behaviors.

Now you can place the target in various places to shape a behavior, for example, going into the carrier. More ideas can be found by searching under “clicker training” here: www.birdsjustwannahavefun.com/books www.birdsupplies.com


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Environmental Enrichment for Birds

Research on bird behavior in the wild shows that birds spend large amount of time performing specific behaviors such as foraging for food, socializing and grooming. Research on birds in captivity suggest that replicating these behaviors can help improve a pet bird’s mental well being, and possibly reduce boredom, and related abnormal behaviors such as feather plucking. Consider the lifestyle of a bird kept indoors in a cage as a single pet, with a single or a few human companions, and an unchanging diet easily available every moment of the day. Contrast this with the lifestyle of a bird in the wild, surrounded in most cases by a large social flock, spending large amounts of time foraging for food This does not means birds should not be kept as pets. Many owners have found ways to keep these wonderful companions in captivity yet still provide them with the mental and physical stimulation that in some ways replicates life in the wild. Remember that owners are also able to protect their birds from the hazards of life in the wild including adverse weather and predators. Foraging: In the wild adult birds must spend large amounts of time hunting and foraging for food. Placing food in a bowl for birds eliminates this natural behavior. Allow the bird to forage for at least one meal every day. Ideas include: Bury small pieces of food in a bowl filled with large pebbles or wooden beads to encourage the bird to dig and search for food. Crumple food into paper so the bird has to unfold it to find the food. Cover the bowl with paper secured with string so the bird must rip open the paper to get to the food. Purchase toys that specifically encourage foraging. Sources include: Socializing: Plan time specifically to replicate “flocking” with multiple family members to discourage socialization with just a few, or worse, a single member of the household. Interacting constantly with a single family member (human or bird) can encourage the bird to form a pair or sex bond. This often results in behaviors owners find objectionable. (See “Proper Bonding”) In households with only a single member, encourage other willing friends to help socialize the bird. Other ideas include: Play “Warm Potato:” While sitting in a circle, pass the bird from person to person. Each participant should ask the bird to step up, and then reward the bird verbally or with a treat. (See Sally Blanchard at) Eat in a social group: Birds in the wild frequently eat together in large groups. Bring the bird near the table at mealtimes on a play stand, and “serve” the bird along with other family members. Take the bird on social outings that include interacting with other willing people. Remember that efforts to socialize a bird must continue throughout the bird’s lifetime.

Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic

9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268 Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian

(317) 879-8633

Basic Good Behavior for Birds Parrots are wonderful companion pets. However, rescue facilities are full of pet parrots that have been abandoned by their owners, many times for unpleasant behaviors that are for the most part preventable. All pet parrots should be willing to do the following:

1. Step up and step down onto and from the owner’s hand, all members of the household and confident strangers.

2. Stay on a perch or play gym when put there 3. Willingly enter the cage or carrier

Step up is the first basic command to teach your bird. Confidently ask your bird to step up while pressing gently on the parrot’s breast with your hand. Praise the bird. Ask your bird to then step down onto perches, the cage or other surfaces by gently rolling him off your hand. Praise, reward and repeat regularly.

All members of the family who are physically and mentally able to handle the bird should regularly reinforce the step up and step down command. The bird should then meet strangers in or outside the home and perform the same for them.

The worst thing you can do is to allow the bird to only step up and step down for a few, or worse yet only one person. This can lead to a monogamous pair or sex pair bonding that almost always leads to behaviors most owners find unacceptable. (See Pair Bonding for Birds.)

Birds must learn to stay on a perch or play gym and not jump up to follow the owners or explore the house. Place the bird on the perch. If he jumps off, give a firm “No” and replace him. When he stays on the perch for a period of time, reward him with a favorite treat. Repeat as necessary. Be sure a bird left on a perch is rewarded with food, toys, or attention for staying put. If the bird continues to jump off, place him gently into a large cardboard box for a 2-3 minute “time out.” Take him out, place him back on the perch and reward him when he stays.

Birds should be willing to go back into the cage or carrier when asked. Practice and continually reward good behavior. If your bird resists, see “Target Training for Birds.”


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Stress and the Veterinary Visit-

Tips on how to make the Veterinary exam a more pleasant and less stressful experience for you and your bird In years past it was not uncommon for veterinarians unfamiliar with birds to attempt to handle them using techniques that caused fear and anxiety for the birds. These included the use of gloves, and simply grabbing birds quickly and forcefully to reduce the risk of being bitten. This generally resulted in a stressful fear response that was almost guaranteed to reoccur each time the bird visited the veterinary hospital. We now know that it is possible to handle nearly all pet birds in such a way to reduce stress and result in an experience that ranges from pleasant to only mildly annoying. This does not happen without work on the part of the owner and the veterinary staff. Training the bird to accept handling must be practiced regularly for the entire lifetime of the pet. Gentle handling on the part of the veterinary staff is often doomed to failure without regular effort on the part of the owner. Using positive reinforcement and practice you should be able to train your bird to: Willingly enter the carrier to come to the veterinarian Willingly step onto the scale to be weighed Willingly leave you to step onto the hand of veterinary staff Accept towel restraint without fear Entering the carrier The transport carrier or box should not be used only when the bird has to go to the veterinarian, or it will become associated with veterinary visits. Young birds should regularly be placed into the carrier and rewarded, and occasionally be taken places in it the bird finds enjoyable or rewarding. Let the bird occasionally find food treats or toys inside the carrier. Older birds that are fearful of or resist going into the carrier must be conditioned to accept the carrier. Some tips include: Reward the bird for standing on top of or near the carrier at first. Train the bird to respond to a target that is placed closer and closer to the carrier, and eventually in the carrier. (See “Target Training”) Standing on the scale Practice at home with a portable perch that is similar in size and shape to our perch. Or, alternatively, bring your portable perch to the veterinary exam to set onto our scale. If birds are fearful of portable perches, work at home to overcome this before the veterinary exam. It is important that all birds be able to sit quietly on a perch when placed there. (See: Basic Good Behavior for the New Bird) Willingly accepting handling by the veterinary staff Basic Good Behavior for the New Bird explains the importance of training a bird to step up to unfamiliar people. Practice by regularly taking your bird to an unfamiliar area (of your house or even someone else’s house) and asking people who are confident with birds to ask your bird to step up.

Sally Blanchard recommends what she calls the “Warm Potato” game where all family members plus less familiar willing participants sit in a circle and calmly pass the bird from person to person. This is a critically important skill that must be reinforced for the lifetime of the bird. Birds that are confident around new people will not usually be afraid to interact with the veterinary staff. As birds are flock animals, it is natural for them to willingly interact with large numbers of flock members. Birds that are comfortable only with a few, or worse yet, one person will experience stress anytime unfamiliar people are involved, and can result in far worse behavioral problems later in life. Accept Towel Restraint There is probably not much that can be done to train a bird to actually enjoy towel restraint and examination, but most birds can learn the restraint is only mildly annoying and willingly accept it. Success depends on constant positive reinforcement at home before and in between veterinary visits. This is easiest to accomplish in young birds. We recommend “Towel Peek-a-boo.” Gently cover the bird with a towel, remove it and praise and reward the bird. Repeat regularly for the life of the bird. Older birds already fearful of towels take much more effort. Begin by target training, and move the target closer and closer to a towel spread flat out on a table surface (see “Target Training.”) Practice until the bird will step onto the towel to reach the target. Wiggle one corner of the towel and reward the bird for sitting calmly. Gradually move more and more towel towards the bird until you can cover the bird completely. More fearful birds may require months of training to accomplish this. Additional Tips: Bring a familiar towel and favorite treats to the Veterinary exam for the staff to use. More References: Basic Good Behavior for New Birds Target Training for Birds The “Warm Potato” game, Sally Blanchard: www.companionparrot.com


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Emergency First Aid Primer for Birds

Remember that all sick or injured birds will benefit from warmth (90-95 degrees); dark and quiet until you can get medical help. Birds that have no been eating can be given karo syrup or pancake syrup in water by eyedropper or syringe, in very small frequent amounts. Below are additional first aid tips for specific injuries or illnesses.

1. TRAUMA often involves bleeding, fractures or concussion. The top priority is to stop bleeding. The most effective method to stop bleeding is direct pressure. Once the bleeding has stopped or slowed dramatically, styptic powder, super glue or flour may be used to help form a clot.

2. BURNS must always be inspected by a veterinarian, even if the skin looks good. Many require shock therapy, pain control and antibiotics. In many cases, the full extent of burn damage is not known for several days.

3. GASTROINTESTINAL DISEASE includes anorexia, diarrhea, passing whole seed, decreased emptying of the crop and regurgitation. Note that birds in new or stressful situations may not eat for a time. Introducing new foods may cause a change in feces, and food with high water content may cause increased wet dropping from urine production. Conditions requiring veterinary care include diarrhea, passing whole seed in stool, decreased fecal output, or yellow to green urates (white portion of droppings).

4. TISSUE PROLAPSE from vent may be the uterus, rectum, and egg or other tissue. Call a veterinarian immediately. If care is delayed, you may lightly rinse the tissue with warm, sterile saline solution or contact lens solution, and moisten with sterile lubricant like KY jelly.

5. CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM DISEASE includes seizures, paralysis and/or incoordination. Weakness and/or seizure may be due to hypoglycemia. If the bird is alert you may give a small amount of karo or pancake syrup in water and call the veterinarian.

6. HYPERTHERMIA or overheating from exposure to extreme heat can quickly be life threatening. Signs of hyperthermia include panting and holding wings away from the body. Be aware panting can also be caused by respiratory disease, and not overheating. Birds that are hyperthermic can be cooled by gentle application of cool water.

7. RESPIRATORY DISEASE symptoms include difficulty breathing, sneezing, nasal discharge or a voice change. If the bird has severe difficulty breathing, place the bird in a dark box or carrier, minimize handling and stress and call the veterinarian immediately.

8. SWELLINGS may be abdominal fluid, an egg, a hernia, air from an over inflated air sac or a tumor. If the bird exhibits difficulty breathing, or otherwise seems depressed call the veterinarian immediately.

9. ANIMAL BITES always require antibiotics, even if you are not sure if the skin was broken. Wash wounds and flush with water if veterinary care is delayed.

10. BEAK INJURIES may or may not be emergencies depending on the extent of injury of location. Large fractures or injuries near when the beak is connected to the face should be seen as soon as possible. Bleeding should be controlled with direct pressure.

A note on the ADR bird (Ain’t Doing Right): Typical calls to our clinic involve birds that are “maybe a little lethargic, sometimes diarrhea, not eating as well as normal, just a little puffed up and sleeping more”. Practically every disease a bird can have, mild or severe can present with these exact symptoms. As birds are masters at hiding signs of illness, we recommend an exam for any “ADR” bird, along with testing and laboratory work to help us distinguish between the many possible diagnoses. Calling the veterinarian after hours: Call the regular clinic number: 317-879-8633. The recording will give instructions on how to reach the doctor on call. Remember cell phones and pagers don’t always work the first time. Be sure to try again in 15-20 minutes if you get no response. Do not use a doctor’s pager or cell phone first before checking the recording, as the doctor who is not on duty may not be monitoring the phone or pager.

avian and exotic animal clinic and exotic animal clinic ... avian (317) 879-8633 is my ... pet bird...

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