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“Seahome””

Owner’s Notes Edition of January 2021.

Manual Preface & Vessel Specifications ................................................................................................ 2

Safety Equipment ................................................................................................................................... 5

Maneuvering & Anchoring; Trim Tabs; Thrusters ................................................................................... 6

Dinghy, Davit & Outboard Motor.......................................................................................................... 11

Alternating Current (AC) Electrical Systems .......................................................................................... 13

AC Panel Breakers ............................................................................................................................. 16

DC Electrical Systems ............................................................................................................................ 19

Switches and Breakers in Direct Current (DC) Power Panel .............................................................. 20

Electronics – Autopilot, Chart Plotter, Radar, VHF, Wind Inst, Entertainment Sys. ........................... 23

Engines & Transmissions – Engine controls, checking engine oil, transmission oil, sea strainers .......... 26

Water Systems – Fill, Heater, Pump, Sea Water Pump, Showers .......................................................... 28

Fuel System – Fill, Filters, Manifold, Measuring, Furnace ..................................................................... 29

Galley - Barbecue, Propane Tank, Stove, Microwave, Refrigerator, Ice Maker, Freezer ....................... 31

Head Systems – Toilets, Holding Tank, Level Indicator, Pump Out, Overboard Discharge .................... 32

Through-Hulls and Sea-Strainers………………………………………………………………………………………………………….33

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Manual Preface

Manual Objectives and Limitations

This manual is intended to introduce you to Seahome, its systems, and features, allowing you to operate it with the confidence and necessary to enjoy your cruising vacation. It is not intended to replace a basic understanding of seamanship, including navigation skills, weather interpretation or boat handling. Given the complexity of this boat and its systems, there is no way that all conditions, contingencies, and operating details can be covered. If you need additional information to facilitate your understanding or handling of this vessel, ask your San Juan Yachting checkout skipper or contact the office.

The Name “Seahome”

Our boat name, Seahome is a twist on the local (Bellingham Bay) name “Sehome” and was chosen as a homage to the people, over the centuries, who have chosen the shores of the Salish Sea as their home. (“Salish Sea” has recently been designated as the name for all the inland waters from Olympia, Washington, in the south, to Cape Scott at the North end of Vancouver Island). Sehome was one of the four original villages along the coast of Bellingham Bay that joined to become Bellingham. Sehome was named after Chief S'-yah-whom (a.k.a. Chief Sehome) of the Samish Nation. Chief Sehome lived near the present site of Western Washington University, the Sehome Arboretum and Sehome High School, where our grandchildren graduated. We hope that you will have a wonderful time in our home waters.

Ariane and Dan Ringler

Important Vessel Specifications

Vessel: Grand Banks Classic 42

Official (Coast Guard) Registration Number: 1020493

Hull ID Number: GNDD1292L394

Fuel: # 2 Diesel: 600 gallons in two 300 gallon tanks (Charter guests should fill tanks only to top of sight glass. Then each tank holds 260 gallons, total 520 gallons.)

Fresh water: 176 gallons in two tanks (88/88)

Holding Tank: 40 Gallons

Length Overall: 48 feet

Beam: 14 Feet 1 inch

Draft: 4 Feet 11 inches

Berths: 2 in fore cabin, 2 in aft cabin, 2 on salon settees (an extension is provided for the port settee)

Refrigerator Space: 3.3 cubic feet

Freezer Space: Freezer in Aft Stateroom 4 cu. Ft.; Fridge in Galley 0.6 cu. Ft.; Ice Maker 0.3 cu. Ft.

Engines (2): Caterpillar 300hp, model 3116 diesels

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Dinghy Fuel: 6 gallons Regular Gasoline (87 octane) Use only tank under seat.

Engine, Generator and Transmission Oil: CAT Special Application Engine Oil SAE 30 only. (In engine room liquids tub)

Engine & Generator Coolant: CAT DEAC Coolant Mixed 50/50 with water. (In engine room liquids tub)

Operating Parameters (Estimated): Based on GPS readings during sea trials of Seahome. Fuel consumption is based upon Caterpillar 3116 engine specifications for RPM settings.

RPM Speed Fuel Consumption Naut. Miles/Gallon

1200 8.2 knots 2.9 GPH 2.82

1500 9.7 knots 5.2 GPH 1.86

1800 11.2 knots 8.4 GPH 1.33

2000 11.9 knots 11.4 GPH 1.04

2200 12.4 knots 15 GPH 0.82

2400 14.2 knots 19.4 GPH 0.73

Safety Equipment

There is a built-in manual diaphragm-type bilge pump in the lower helm starboard door step, plus electric pumps in the mid and aft bilges. Each engine water pump is equipped with a valve that can allow it to rapidly pump the bilges in an emergency

Carbon monoxide monitors: located in the salon and forward and aft staterooms.

Handheld fire extinguishers: (6)

(1) & (2) in the forward and aft staterooms

(3) in the galley near stove

(4) outside on the sun deck alongside the dinghy davit (5) on the flybridge forward of the port front seat. (6) on the dinghy console A Fire suppression system in the engine room has automatic halon release; this automatic system also provides automatic engine shutdown (engines can be restarted by pressing button on helm overhead display). The system can be manually activated by a Red Pull Handle near the lower helm seat.

First Aid Kit: located in the “Emergency Drawer” in the end of the salon settee “L”

Five flashlights: 1) in the Engine Room on the forward bulkhead 2) in the “Emergency Drawer” at the end of the Salon settee “L”

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3) in the Forward Stateroom near the fire extinguisher 4) in the Master Stateroom port bedside table top drawer 5) in the Helm Desk

Extra Batteries are kept in the “Emergency Drawer” at the end of the salon settee “L”

Flares are kept In the “Emergency Drawer” in the end of the salon settee “L”

Wearable flotation vests/PFDs in each stateroom hanging locker and under the flybridge seat.

Throwable life ring, is stowed on the sundeck and a “LifeSling” is stowed on the flybridge.

VHF radio at each helm and a portable VHF radio clipped on the wall near the lower helm (it can also be used in the dinghy). The portable radio charger is in the helm desk.

The VHF radio just above the lower helm has Emergency Selective Calling and location capabilities, with operating procedures posted adjacent.

The Garmin Chart Plotter provides an Automated Identification System (AIS) that gives information (name, hailing port, heading, speed, size etc) about vessels in the area while providing them with pertinent information about Seahome.

Emergency Tiller - The boat has positive, cable steering. In the event of a steering system failure, an emergency manual tiller is provided. It is stored on the forward bulkhead of the lazaret. To use the tiller:

1) remove the plastic “cap” in the stbd lazaret hatch lid 2) remove the tiller handle from its storage location in the lazaret (remove protective wrap at end) 3) lower the stbd lazaret hatch lid into place 4) insert the shaft of the emergency tiller through the hatch lid opening and engage the rudder 5) steer with the tiller until repairs can be made

(The need for the emergency tiller is exceedingly rare!)

Alarm Panel and Windshield Wiper Controls - The Alarm Panel overhead at the helm provides information about several anomalies in the boat's systems. Lights illuminate if engine water temperature is high or if oil pressure is low. Lights also indicate whether forward or aft bilge pumps are running. Finally, a light indicates that the engine rooms lights are on. The windshield wiper controls are also here. Turning the knobs activate the windshield wipers pressing any knob activates the windshield washers for all three wipers.

Raw Water Alarm – Engine overheating is a serious problem. An electronic system monitors the temperature of the exhaust sea water from the engines. The system alarms if the water temperature rises above a set point. The Alarm Panel is located overhead at the lower helm (labeled Raw Water). If the alarm sounds, the offending engine should be shut down immediately and the cause of the alarm investigated. The alarm can be muted by pressing the Mute button on the alarm panel. Debris in the sea water inlet or strainer leading to the engine is the most common cause of an alarm. The inlet and strainer should be examined and cleaned (see page 31). The second most common cause of overheating is failure of the water pump impeller. If engine overheating occurs, contact San Juan Yachting.

Bilge Pumps - The boat has five bilge pumps.

A built-in piston type hand pump is concealed in the lower helm starboard step to the side deck.

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Two electric pumps are controlled by switches in the DC panel by the lower helm. In the center row, the breakers labeled FWD Bilge Pump and AFT Bilge Pump should always be left “On” otherwise the pumps will not work. These switches provide power to the pumps. To the right of these two breakers each Bilge Pump has a 3-position activation switch labeled “Auto” (down), “Off” (center) or “Manual” (up). These switches should be left in the “Auto” (down) position

When in “Auto” (down) the pump is controlled by its float switch.

When set to “Off” (center) the pump will not run. This position is only used if the float switch is defective and will not turn off.

When set to “Manual” (up) the pump will run without regard to the float switch. This is used by the operator to drain water below the range of the float switch or to bypass a defective float switch. An alarm sounds whenever a bilge pump is running.

Two EMERGENCY high-volume engine seawater pumps can draw from the bilge. Each of the engines’ seawater intake hoses has a “T” with a lever valve to a large hose in the bilge. To allow the engine seawater pump to draw from the bilge, 1) loosen the T-handle and close the thru-hull, 2) break the zip tie and move the valve handle to point to the hose running to the bilge. The engine pump should not be run dry. Manage the valves to ensure that the engine pump (while running) always has water.

Emergency bilge pump valve (red lever) and sea strainer. Close raw water through-hull (yellow valve handle at base of sea strainer, loosen t-handle to allow yellow valve handle to move) and rotate red lever to be in line with hose to bilge. Monitor bilge water level to ensure that the engine seawater pumps do not run dry.

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Maneuvering & Anchoring

Maneuvering in a Harbor

With its twin screws, it is best to center the rudder and steer with the engines only. The rudder position can be determined by observing the rudder position indicator on the Autopilot panel: the small “diamond” symbol (red arrow) moves to port or starboard with the rudder position. The boat will respond well, except in high winds, with just use of the propellers in forward, neutral or reverse at idle. The variable speed bow and stern thrusters can be very helpful when maneuvering in tight quarters or with high winds or currents. The thruster Hold Feature will hold the boat against the dock.

Anchoring

Chain length Marking

Each 25’ 18’’ yellow nylon line segment woven in Each 100’ Two yellow nylon line segments woven in 18” apart Last 5’ of chain Continuous nylon line woven in

Before attempting to anchor, select an anchorage with a soft bottom such as sand, mud, or gravel, if possible. Look at the charts and cruising guides for tips on good locations. Calculate anchor rode length considering depth, expected local tides and weather. Then, choose the spot in the anchorage where you have room to “swing” on the anchor without disturbing other boats. Remember, responsibility for leaving room goes to each successive boat to arrive.

Except in severe weather, we use anchor chain scopes of 4-to-1 or 5-to-1. For example, in water that is 40 feet deep at high tide in the typical anchorage, we might use 160 feet of chain (4-to1) unless the wind is expected to pipe up .

Anchoring safely requires two persons, one at the helm maneuvering the boat and one on the bow operating the anchor. Turn ON the Windlass breaker (on wall starboard of lower helm). The anchor restraint is released, then the windlass foot-switches are used to slacken the chain. The anchor is eased slowly and carefully over the bow roller. Take care that the anchor does not swing into the hull.

Lower the anchor slowly to the bottom using the windlass. When the chain begins to slacken, indicating that the bottom has been reached, the boat is backed away by reversing the engines for 3- 5 second bursts: eddies from the chain indicate motion. (Backing upwind may be easier) Resume lowering the anchor while the boat is slowly moved backward (use of thrusters may be helpful in steering) (watch the eddies and add another burst of reverse if necessary) until the desired amount of chain is laid out on the

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bottom. Stop paying out chain. Engage reverse with one engine for 2-4 seconds at a time until the chain starts to pull straight off the bow toward the anchor. A straight chain indicates a “set” anchor!

NEVER pull on the chain for more than five seconds, and never with both engines or at any engine RPM other than idle! Putting the boat’s weight plus its horsepower on the chain forcefully even at idle may pull the anchor loose even if it is well set. If while checking the “set”, a taught chain can not be achieved, or the chain rumbles and clunks, and seems to release in bursts, the anchor is not holding. Be patient: it may not set on the first try and you may have to repeat the process to get a good “set”.

Anchor Bridle

There is a Mantis Claw anchor bridle stowed in the forward deck locker. Use it when anchoring overnight, as it accomplishes three goals: 1) It takes the strain of the anchor off the anchor platform and windlass and directs it to the bow cleats which are more suited to hold it; 2) It reduces substantially the

“chain noise” transmitted to the occupants of the forward cabin; and 3) It allows the anchor rode to have a lower angle relative to the sea bottom, thus increasing the anchor’s holding power.

To use the bridle:

• Lower the anchor normally then after it is “set”,

• Hook the bridle (Mantis Claw) on the upper side of the chain just in front of the chain wheel (wildcat). It may be necessary to lift the chain slightly to insert the Claw into the chain. (Don’t be gentle!) Fasten the rubber restraint strap to keep the Claw in place. Feed the ends of the bridle lines through the bow roller aperture and over the roller. Let them dangle almost to the

Anchor bridle Mantis Claw attachment with lines over anchor roller.

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water. Then, using a boat hook lead them to and through the port and starboard hawse holes respectively and secure to the adjacent cleats.

• The bridle lines should be equal in length and as long as possible;

• Last, operate the windlass slowly in short bursts to pay out anchor chain so that the Claw passes over the bow roller and the chain tension is supported by the bridle. Reverse the boat to put tension on the anchor, the excess chain will then form a dangling loop just aft of the Claw.

The weight of the drooping chain forms an effective “snubber”, so the boat is gently held against the pressure of wind and tide.

Anchor Windlass

The anchor is raised and lowered by a Lofrans Tigres windlass on the anchor platform. The windlass is controlled by foot switches at the platform and switches at both helms. The rotary circuit breaker for the windlass is on the Windlass Panel on the starboard wall of the salon helm.

The yellow arrow points to the Emergency Ratchet and to the Insertion Hole for the emergency handle (stored in fore

deck locker). Note: The Insertion Hole may face forward and be difficult to see. The red arrow points to one of the clutch adjustment points. The green arrow points to the Emergency Cog which can be engaged to prevent the chain from running free.

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If the windlass should fail to operate when the foot switches are operated, trouble-shoot as follows: • Be sure the Windlass Breaker switch on the Windlass Panel is “On”. • Press the “Reset” button on the windlass panel. • Try the manual up/down switch at either helm (if this works, use these switches instead of the foot switches until the foot switches can be repaired). • If these steps fail, use the Emergency Windlass Handle (stored in the forward deck locker). • With the clutch tight, insert the handle into the hole in the rachet

on the port side of the windlass (the hole may be on the forward side of the rachet and difficult to see).

• Pull the handle backward to bring in the chain (the rachet will hold the chain tight as additional strokes are made until the anchor is aboard). See the windlass manual.

Windlass Operation & Chain Jams

Windlass Operation:

The chain goes from the windlass into the chain locker through the chain pipe behind the cog wheel (wildcat). Be especially careful to keep fingers, hands, arms, etc. away from the chain when it is moving! You should use the foot switches just behind the windlass to control it (not the control by the lower helm), this allows you to observe the chain engaging with the windlass and moving into or out of the chain pipe. Rinse Debris from Chain and Anchor: While retrieving the chain and anchor, rinse the debris and mud off the chain and anchor using the salt water spigot and hose adjacent to the anchor platform. The S.W. Pump breaker in the 12 Volt Electrical Panel must be “On” to enable the pump to run when the spigot is opened. Turn the breaker off when finished to prevent flooding the boat if a salt water pipe in the engine room should break. Chain Jams:

If the chain jams while lowering the anchor, it may be that one loop of the chain has fallen inside another loop when the chain pile fell over or shifted. It is impossible for the chain to knot so you should never need to disconnect it at either end. One way to disentangle the chain is, while wearing gloves, (stowed in the lower helm step to the deck) grasp the chain on the forward side of the cog wheel, and, while lifting it above and behind the cog wheel, rapidly yank it up and down through the chain pipe. This will usually free it. If this “yanking” technique fails, a crew member can access the chain locker from the forward berth and un-overlap the layers of chain in the pile (a blue tarp stowed under the sink in the forward head can be used to protect the bed). Be especially careful to keep fingers and hands away from the chain when it is moving!

If the chain jams while retrieving the anchor, it may be that the chain, in the chain locker, has piled up to a peak and blocked the chain pipe. (A frequent occurrence.) Use the pole (stored in the forward berth

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hanging locker) or the wooden paddle (stored in the forward head under the sink) to poke the chain pile and tip it over. Then, additional chain can enter the locker. A blue tarp (stored with the paddle) may be used to protect the forward berth bedding. It may be convenient to ready the pole, paddle and tarp prior to retrieving the anchor. The person with this duty has been termed the “chain monkey”.

The end of the chain is attached to the boat, in the chain locker, using a strong nylon line. If the anchor can not be retrieved, the anchor and chain can be cut loose from the boat. Attach the end of the chain to a fender for flotation and record the location of the anchor and chain for later retrieval. If possible, call SJY for advice before abandoning the anchor and chain.

Stern Tie to Shore

When a stern tie to the shore is appropriate, an anchor is set 200-300 feet from shore, with the boat backing toward shore during anchor-setting. (Anchor distance from shore depends on expected final stern distance from shore, plus boat length, plus expected length of chain necessary.) Of course, water depth at the anchor, at the boat and expected tides must be taken into account.

With a crew member keeping the boat in position, take the dinghy to shore pulling the end of the shore line with you (line must be through hawse hole on stern). Shore line on reel is in lazaret. The line reel can sit in the corner of the cockpit while unwinding. Pass the line around a tree or any solid object and pull it back to the boat (then through the hawse hole again and cleat both ends of line). Pull the line tight. As long as you've got over 100' total of line out: there is plenty of sag/stretch, and we want to keep the boat in its area! If necessary, put a crab pot float or fender on the line to warn others it’s there. During this process, be sure to keep clear of rocks near the shore. Then, to get away in the morning all you need to do is release the bitter end from the boat and wind the line aboard.

Trim Tabs

The boat is fitted with a set of trim tabs that are operated hydraulically by rocker switches at each helm station. The “Trim Tabs” breaker in the DC panel must be “On”.

At low speeds, up to approximately ten knots, the tabs do little, and should be left in the “Bow Up” position. But at speeds over this range, the tabs begin to take effect and will help the operator lower the bow for more efficient cruising.

Adjust BOW DOWN, with both switches, while watching the “Speed” indicator to get the highest speed at a given throttle setting. Note the height of the bow relative to the horizon. If the bow is too low, steering will get mushy and speed may drop off a little. Note that it will take time to make these adjustments; when the buttons are depressed, they need to be held 3 -5 seconds each change. The wait an additional 15-20 seconds for a change to be felt. Because the trim tabs are so large, THEY MUST BE IN THE FULLY-BOW-UP POSITION WHENEVER THE BOAT IS TO BE OPERATED IN REVERSE, otherwise the reverse water force against the tabs may damage them severely. THIS IS THE MOST COMMON BOAT DAMAGE THAT CHARTER GUESTS CAUSE! To be sure the tabs are up after use, hold the switches in the BOW UP position for 15 seconds or more.

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Thrusters

The new bow and stern thrusters (Side-Power Variable Speed with Hold Feature and Remote Radio Control) are very helpful when docking and maneuvering in tight quarters. They are controlled by joystick panels at both helms or a remote control radio neck pendant. Instructions are in the lower helm desk and Operation Manuals are located in the aft cabin.

Operation of the thrusters-

1. Press both “ON” buttons simultaneously to activate the system. Press the left “ON” button again to change between day and night lighting.

2. The forward speed control joystick operates the bow thruster. The aft joystick operates the stern thruster. Sideways joystick movement controls the speed of the thruster.

3. The Hold function holds the boat gently against the dock in the direction of the arrow. Press “+” to activate the hold function. Press “+” again for more power and “-“ for less hold power (6 steps). Three + is a good starting point. Moving the either joystick in the opposite direction deactivates the Hold function.

4. Press “OFF” to deactivate the system.

Emergency “OFF” switches are located in the cabinet under the V-berth (for bow thruster) and in the port side of the lazaret (stern thruster). Pushing down on the large red button deactivates the thruster.

Dinghy, Davit & Outboard Motor

Davit

The boat has an electric davit to move the dinghy from its cradle to the water. Please be careful not to damage anything with the outboard lower unit. To operate the davit, the toggle switch circuit breaker on the wall starboard of the lower helm, must be “On” (up). 1) Connect the remote control (stored in the flying bridge starboard aft seat ) to the socket under the davit motor. Lower the controller to the side deck. It is best to operate the davit from the walkway near the davit base. 2) Remove the cover and restraints. Put in the drain plug. (FAILURE TO INSERT THE DRAIN PLUG IS THE MOST COMMON ERROR IN LAUNCHING) If not in, the dinghy will fill with sea water. If not in, the plug will be tied to the steering wheel or the dinghy cover cinching cord under the motor. A spare is in the lower helm cubby.

3) Raise the dinghy a foot or so then, using the tilt control on the outboard motor cover, tilt the outboard lower unit maximally up. Move the dinghy bow around the davit base. (This takes some force.). Swing the dinghy over the rail while holding onto the bow and stern lines.

4) Lower the dinghy until afloat then pay out more davit cable in order to move the dinghy to the end of the swim step. Release the large lifting shackle. Hold onto the heavy shackle until it is

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lifted above the rail and secured. 5) Bring the dinghy to astern the swim step. 6) Release the bridle bow shackle only from the dinghy and store the bridle behind the seat. 7) Secure the davit boom to Seahome so it will not swing if the boat rolls.

To re-stow the dinghy reverse the procedure, being sure to raise the outboard lower unit before raising the dinghy from the water. This will help prevent the lower unit from damaging the rail. Take care to adjust the dinghy for best fit in its cradle then lower the lower unit. Attach the restraints. If heavy weather is expected, it is best to attach the red webbing straps with rachets attached around the dinghy and through the cradle. (red straps with rachets are stored under starboard aft flying bridge seat)

Dinghy

The dinghy is an 11.0' Novurania hard-bottom inflatable boat with a console.

For safety, and compliance with U.S. rules, there must be a life jacket aboard the dinghy for each passenger and children under 12 must wear it while the dinghy is afloat. The dinghy is equipped with an outboard motor with remote controls, a console, Garmin chart plotter, (stored in salon step to port deck) lights, depth sounder, battery, anchor and Anchor Buddy rode, shore line, paddles, and a 6 gallon fuel tank under the seat. (DO NOT USE THE DINGHY BUILT-IN FUEL TANK).

If the dinghy is stored on its cradle uncovered, remove the drain plug in rainy weather so that it doesn’t fill with water. (attach it to the steering wheel with a twister tie, nylon line or wire). Additional plugs are located in the lower helm cubby hole. The hand bilge pump and air chamber pump are stored under the starboard flying bridge seat.

Using the Anchor Buddy, it is possible to drop the anchor 30-45’ from shore then stretch the rode to shore. Be careful, the point and edges of the Mantis Anchor flukes are sharp. Attach the dinghy to a shore line and then let out the shore line and the Anchor Buddy will pull the boat out to the vicinity of the anchor. To retrieve the dinghy, pull the shore line. The Anchor Buddy should not be used for overnight anchorage.

When pulling the dinghy ashore on a beach. It is best if you bump up to the beach carefully and step ashore over the bow, pulling the dinghy a little more ashore as each person off-loads. If two persons are present, hull scratches can be reduced if one lifts from each side as the dinghy is moved forward. Don’t forget to raise the outboard lower unit as you approach shallow water then shut it off and glide or paddle to the beach!

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Outboard Motor

The dinghy has a new Tohatsu, 4-cycle, 30-hp outboard motor with remote controls, electric-start and tilt. Don’t forget to open the fuel tank vent in the cap of the tank.

Boat Systems & Operations

Alternating Current (AC) Electrical Systems

AC Generator System

The ship’s Onan Generator provides 8,000 watts (ca 80 Amps) of AC power and is mainly used for battery charging, water heating, and powering the freezer and ice maker.

The generator is in the engine room. Its oil and coolant levels are checked before each charter by the Seahome’s maintenance professional. Access to the generator is by unlatching and removing the starboard side panel on the sound-shield cabinet. The generator sea strainer should be checked every few days to be sure is has not accumulated substantial debris, especially if the generator has been run for extended periods at anchor. Starting the Generator:

1) Turn on the “Generator Breaker” at the very top right of the AC panel. (difficult to see)

2) Press the “Preheat” button for 15 seconds (this energizes “glow plugs” to warm the engine’s cylinders). THEN RELEASE IT.

3) Press the “start” switch and hold until you hear the engine start.

4) Check the generator exhaust, (underwater, port side, midship) to confirm that cooling water is being circulated.

5) After a brief warmup of a minute or so, switch the AC Power Selector, in the AC power panel, to “Gen”. You should see the “AC Present” pilot light go on!

Stopping the Generator:

1) Switch the AC Power Selector to “Off”. This removes the load from the generator.

2) After at least a minute to allow the generator to cool down, press and hold the “stop” switch until the generator comes to a complete stop. TURN OFF THE GENERATOR BREAKER!!

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Generator Problems:

The generator monitors its own operation! It has two fault-detection systems: one of these will detect any loss in oil pressure, the other detects overheating. If either condition occurs, the generator will shut down and will not restart .

If this occurs, you can confirm that the cause was such a fault by looking on the aft starboard side of the generator where you will see a “fault” button (red arrow in photo). If a fault has occurred, the button will pop out; it is normally flush with the panel if there is no fault.

If the generator will not run, call SJY for assistance.

AC Inverter System.

The Inverter Makes AC from DC...

The microwave should not be run more than 5 minutes using the inverter on House Batteries only. If the engines are running, use it all you wish, as long as you don't exceed 2500 watts. The inverter can produce a maximum of 2,500 watts (ca 25 amps) of continuous AC power. The inverter will not run the water heater, ice maker or freezer. Note: Only a few marked outlets on the port side and the microwave are powered by the inverter!

It also makes DC from AC…

If there is AC power available from a shore-side source or the generator, the inverter can recharge the house and starter batteries. The battery charger function receives that power through the “Inverter Battery Charger” breaker on the AC panel. Since this breaker must be “On” for the batteries to charge using AC power, and you will want to charge the batteries at every opportunity, we suggest that you leave it “On” for the duration of your cruise.

Be mindful that the inverter can draw a lot of current when charging the batteries, especially when first connected to shore power. Thus, you need to be careful not to overload the power cord or the shore power circuit by running other high-draw AC appliances (ie. water heater, freezer, ice maker) at the same time. Monitor the AC Ammeter to ensure that the load remains below the maximum available current from the marina and the load capacity of your shore power cord (normally 30 amps).

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Inverter Operation

The inverter panel is located above the helm. The panel has an LCD display that shows the present status and 4 LED lights that quickly tell you if a function is “On”.

• Oval On/Off Buttons are on the left.

• Pressing the oval “Charger” button once puts

inverter in charging mode and the CHG light is lit.

Pressing the button again turns the charger off.

• Pressing the oval “Inverter” button once turns the inverter on and the green INV light is lit.

Pressing the button again turns the inverter off.

• The red Fault light will light if the House Battery Bank voltage drops below about 11.6 v and the

inverter function will cease.

• Menu Buttons are below the screen:

• Shore Sets the limit in amps the Inverter will draw while it is charging so that the load does not

trigger the dock breaker. Usually set to 20-30 amps.

• The AGS, Meter, Setup, and Tech buttons are NOT used by charterers

Interpreting the Display:

When the vessel has shore power or the generator is running, and the “ON /OFF CHARGER” switch is ON, the screen display will show CHARGING. There are two normal charging stages, BULK (when batteries are significantly depleted) and FLOAT (when the batteries are nearly full.) The screen shows the present voltage and charging current of the House Battery Bank.

When there is no external power, and the inverter “ON/OFF INVERTER” switch is on, the display will show “INVERTING” if something needs power.

Note: Only some (clearly marked) outlets on the port side and the microwave are powered by the inverter.

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AC Metering

To the right of the lower helm, below knee height, are four meters showing the AC voltage available and the current in amperes (amps) being used by the boat. The top pair of meters shows the NON-INVERTED VOLTAGE AND POWER CONSUMPTION (amps). When connected to shore power or with the generator running, you should have between 110 and 130 volts, 105 volts minimum. When connected to 30-amp shore power, BE CAREFUL WHEN TURNING ON THE INVERTER BATTERY CHARGER, WATER HEATER, FREEZER OR ICE MAKER , lest the amp load exceed 30 amps. The generator can produce much more power. With the generator running, do not exceed 75 amps. In the picture, the meters show about 115 volts from the shore cable, and about a 5 or 6 ampere load. (Since the boat is connected to 30-amp dock

power, all is well.)

The bottom pair of meters shows the INVERTED voltage and power consumption (amps). The principal power consumers of inverted power are the microwave and anything plugged into the Inverted Outlets (all are on the port side of the boat). The refrigerator runs off of 12v power directly from the House Battery Bank.

AC Panel Breakers

This section of the AC panel controls standard 110-volt power throughout the vessel whenever it is received from the “shore” or generator or inverter.

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Name of Breaker or Switch

Function While Motoring At Dock with Power

At Anchor or Buoy

PORT OUTLETS (Needs shorepower, inverter or generator to function)

Powers Outlets on Port Side of Boat

On On On

STBD OUTLET (Needs shorepower, inverter or generator to function)

Powers Outlets on Stbd Side of Boat

On On On

WATER HEATER (Needs shorepower or generator to function)

Turns ON Water Heater

Off On As needed

BACK-UP BATTERY CHARGER (SENTRY) (Needs shorepower or generator to function)

Powers Emergency Back-Up Battery Charger

Always Off Always Off Always Off

ICEMAKER (Needs shorepower or generator to function)

Powers Icemaker when AC Power is Available

On On On

MICRO-WAVE (Needs shorepower, inverter or Gen)

Powers Microwave When AC Present

As needed As needed As needed

INVERTER (Needs shorepower or generator to function)

AC to Inverter for Battery Charging

As needed On As needed

FREEZER (Needs shorepower or generator to function)

AC to Freezer As needed On As needed

GENERATOR ON/OFF (upper right)(Must turn off after Stopping Generator)

Powers Generator Control Circuits

OFF — Only On when starting and running Generator

Off

OFF — Only On when starting and running Generator

HEATER (preheat) Button

Powers heaters in cylinder head

Hold for 15 seconds before pushing START

Hold for 15 seconds before pushing START

Hold for 15 seconds before pushing START

STOP Pressing Button Stops Generator

As needed to stop generator

As needed to stop generator

As needed to stop generator

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Master Switch Turns on AC Panel if AC is Present

Turn ON After Generator Starts

Turn ON after Shore Power is Connected

Turn ON After Generator Starts

AC Supply ON (Yellow Light)

Lights if AC is Present

Should Light After Generator Starts and AC Power Selector (below) is set to GEN

Should be on when shore power cord is plugged in. If not check Shore Pedestal Switch is ON and AC Power Selector (below) is set to FWD SHORE or AFT SHORE as appropriate

Should Light After Generator Starts and AC Power Selector (below) is set to GEN

Reverse Polarity Light Lights if wiring on the dock is faulty. If lighted, turn OFF Master Switch Immediately

OFF If lighted when shore power is ON, turn OFF Master Switch Immediately

OFF

AC Power Selector Selects Source of AC Power

OFF (unless generator is running)

Select FWD or AFT (where cord plugged in)

Select GEN (if generator running)

AC Reverse Polarity

If the “Reverse Polarity” light should illuminate when connecting to Shore Power, immediately disconnect the cable and contact harbor personell advising them of the problem. Do not risk shock or system damage!

AC Shore Power, Disconnecting & Connecting

The large AC selector switch on the bottom of the AC power panel is used to determine the source of AC power for the boat. The switch has four positions, “Off”, “Gen”, “Fwd Shore”, and “Aft Shore”. The “Shore” positions represent the bow and stern shore power connectors for the shore cable.

The switch should be “OFF” whenever you are connecting or disconnecting the boat to shore power or starting or stopping the generator.

As you turn on AC appliances, watch the upper ammeter and don't exceed the dock's available supply, typically 30 amps. Typical currents demand for AC power devices are:

• Inverter – 22 amps (if batteries are very low when shore power is plugged in)

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• Water Heater, Microwave or Toaster - 15 amps

• Hair Dryer – 12 amps

• Coffee Maker – 10 amps

• TV - 1.5 amps

Direct Current (DC) Electrical Systems (12 volts)

DC Concepts

Most of the equipment on the boat is run by 12-volt DC electricity from the boat’s batteries. This is true because DC should always be available: we have batteries aboard even when there is no shore power! Since the batteries are used so much, we must replenish, or charge them. The most important way we do this is by alternators on the ship’s engines. In most cases, one engine will provide enough electricity to run everything, and still have some energy left over to add back to the battery, that is, to charge it.

So a good skipper and crew has “electrical power management” always in mind.

DC Power Panel

The nerve center of the DC electrical system is the DC circuit breaker panel by the helm. On this panel in the left and center columns are the switches that control power to the boat’s various systems. On the right of the panel are the switches for the engine(s) and the main battery switch.

In general, when on the boat, you will have the navigation, anchor, mast/spreader, macerator pump, oil change pump, bow lights, engine room lights, and the vent breakers “OFF”, with all others “ON”. The Engine switches will all be “OFF" unless running, in which case the “Stop Sol" and power switches will be “ON”.

When the boat is empty you will have the salon & cabin lights and the two bilge pump breakers “On”.

*There are two bilge pump toggle switches in the right row of breakers. These switches are fed electricity by the bilge pump breakers in the middle row. The switches control the operation of each

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pump as follows: In the down, “AUTO”, position, the pump is controlled by its own float switch. This is the normal position for these switches. In the middle position, the bilge pump is totally “OFF”; this might be used if the pump’s float switch fails and the pump could burn out from constant running. In the up, “ON”, position, the pump is running under the operator’s control; this might be used to test the pumps, or to determine how much water is in the bilge. An alarm sounds while the bilge pump runs.

The Rotary Main Battery Switch on this panel should always be left in the “House". NEVER switch it to “off” with the engine running!

Switches and Breakers in Direct Current (DC) Power Panel

Name of Breaker

Function While Running At Dock with Power

At Anchor or Buoy

Horn Power to Horn Buttons

On On On

Wiper To Wiper Switch On On On

Nav & Inst Lts Turns on Nav and Instrument Lights

On dusk to dawn

Off Off

Anchor Light Turns on Anchor Light

Off Off On dusk to dawn

Spreader Light Turns on spreader light to light deck

On as needed On as needed On as needed

Fwd, Salon, Aft Cabin Lights (3)

Power to light switches

On On On

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Drain Pump Power to shower drain pumps

On On On

F. W. Pump Power to Fresh Water Pump Pressure Switch

On On On

Galley Vent Power to Galley Vent Switch

On On On

Level Indicator Power to Holding Tank Level Indicator

Off On as needed to check level

On as needed to check level

S. W. Pump Power to Sea Water Washdown Pressure Switch

Off Off On while washing anchor and rode

Macerator Pump Dumps Holding Tank Overboard

On as needed to dump holding tank

Off Off

Oil Change Pump Power to Oil Change Pump

Used at servicing

Used at servicing Used at servicing

Fwd Electric Head Power to Forward Electric Toilet (ET)

On On On

Aft Electric Head Power to Aft ET On On On

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Name of Breaker

Function While Running At Dock with Power

At Anchor

Stereo Power to Fusion Audio

On as needed On as needed On as needed

Trim Tabs Power to Trim Tab Switches

On On On

Gas Stove Power to Propane Switch in Galley

On as needed to use range

On as needed to use range

On as needed to use range

Fridge Power to Fridge thermostat

On On On

Electronics Power to Electronics

On Off Off

Bow Lights Turns on Bow Downward Lights

Off Off On as needed to Illuminate Rode

Autopilot Power to Autopilot Switch

On Off Off

Radar Power to radar On Off Off

Fwd Bilge Pump Power to 3-way Bilge Pump Switch

On at All Times On at All Times On at All Times

Aft Bilge Pump Power to 3-way Bilge Pump Switch

On at All Times On at All Times On at All Times

Eng Rm Lts Turns on Engine Room Lights

Off On While in Engine Room

On While in Engine Room

Stop Sol Powers Solenoid that Stops Engines

On Off Off

Power (left) Powers Port Engine Controls

On Off when Port Engine Not running

Off when Port Engine Not Running

Power (right)

Powers Stbd Engine Controls

On Off when Stbd Engine Not Running

Off when Stbd Engine Not Running

Vent (STBD) (PORT)

Turns on Engine Room Blowers

Off Off Off

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Windlass Panel

There is an Anchor Windlass Panel, on the wall starboard of the lower helm. The big rotary “ON-OFF” switch in the middle should be “ON" only when using the anchor windlass.

DC Voltmeter (Chargicator)

To the right of the helm on the overhead is an analog voltmeter measuring the voltage in the various batteries. Batteries are selected by a “Battery Test” switch located below the meter. The switch positions are:

Starboard Engine Starting Battery (STBD)

Port Engine Starting Battery (PORT)

Generator Starting Battery (GEN)

The voltage ranges and their significance: Batteries Charging-------------------------- 13 volts plus Batteries Fully Charged-------------------- 12-13 volts Batteries Need To Be Charged----------- Below 11.5 volts

Electronics – Autopilot, Chart Plotter, Radar, VHF, Wind Inst, Entertainment Sys.

The boat is equipped with extensive electronic equipment including VHF radios, radar, GPS, Chart Plotter, Depth Sounder, Speed, Autopilot, and a Wind Indicating System.

Each unit is provided with a dedicated or shared circuit breaker in the DC power panel; this breaker must be on when the unit is used. Then the unit’s own power switch must be turned on.

Autopilot (see picture page 5)

The boat is equipped with a Garmin Autopilot System with a control unit at each helm. The circuit breaker is located in the middle row of the DC Panel labelled Autopilot.

Basic operation:

The lower right circular power button turns the System On, or (if held for 3 seconds) turns it Off.

The lower left red STBY button disengages the autopilot and permits the wheel to steer. At the top of the screen the word Standby appears in yellow.

The large numeral shows the current heading in degrees magnetic.

Just below the large current heading numerals, the "P - S" diamond symbol shows the current rudder position port or starboard. When maneuvering in the harbor with the engines, the rudder must be centered.

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When in “Standby”, pressing the left oblong button engages the Autopilot to steer the current course and “Heading Hold” is displayed on the screen.

Then, pressing the right or left oblong buttons increases or decreases the course setting by one degree. Holding either button, increases or decreases the course setting in 5 degree steps.

When in “Standby”, pressing the center oblong button produces a Menu of possible actions on the screen. The right button scrolls through the Menu and the center button selects the highlighted action. Pressing the red Standby button escapes the Menu and returns the Autopilot to Standby and allows wheel steering. Charter guests should not need to use the Menu.

For full details, see the Autopilot Manual.

Maintain a careful lookout when using the autopilot! It is an aid to comfortable cruising, not a replacement for an aware helmsperson! Remember, you can disengage the autopilot quickly by pressing "STBY".

Depth Sounder

There is a Garmin depth sounder that displays on the Chartplotter when it is not in Panning Mode.

Electronics: Plotters/Electronic Charting System

The boat is equipped with a new Garmin Electronic Chart Plotter. There is a display on a screen at the lower helm, plus another screen at the upper helm. The GPS system displays Speed Over Ground (SOG), Actual Course Heading, Boat Heading, etc. The system breaker is located in the DC Panel at the lower helm labeled “Electronics”. The Garmin Quick Start document is on the desk near the Chart Plotter.

THE ELECTRONIC CHARTING SYSTEM IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR CAREFUL STUDY OF TRADITIONAL PAPER CHARTS.

Radar

The boat is equipped with a Garmin radar that is integrated with the chart plotters at both helms. This unit is primarily used, combined with the electronic chart, for operation in restricted visibility. The radar assists in collision avoidance while the electronic chart unit provides boat position. Proper and safe use of a ship’s radar requires practice and study. We encourage you to become familiar with radar images during clear weather so that, during restricted visibility, the images and operation of the unit are familiar. The radar is activated by turning on the Radar Breaker in the DC panel (a few minutes of warm up are required). On the screen select Home and choose the Radar Overlay chart. Then select Menu then Transmit Radar from the menu. Then select Back to return to the chart with the radar overlay. For detailed operating instructions refer to the radar manual.

VHF Radios (Two Fixed, One Portable)

There are Garmin VHF radios at the upper and lower helm stations. The radios are designed for easy access to Channel 16 which is the hailing and emergency channel in the northwest. Only the lower helm radio uses Digital Selective Calling for emergency communications. Instructions are provided on an adjacent placard.

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There is also a hand held portable VHF radio (located in a wall bracket starboard of the lower helm) that can be taken in the dinghy. The charging unit is located in the lower helm desk.

Wind Speed & Direction

Seahome is equipped with a Garmin Wind Speed and Direction system that reads out at both helms.

Entertainment System

The electronic entertainment system is located in the port aft corner of the main salon. It provides a high definition flat screen TV, Blue Ray DVD player, Fusion high fidelity audio with Sirius/XM radio, CD player, AM/FM radio and Bluetooth or hard wired connectivity to your audio sources. Manuals are in the adjacent wall basket and top drawer. The Stereo breaker powers the system. DC Batteries

Battery Arrangement

To have redundancy, there are several “banks” of batteries assigned different tasks.

The port and starboard starting battery banks are used for starting the engines only. That way, we don’t risk running these batteries down and then are unable to start an engine.

The generator starting battery is used exclusively for starting the generator.

The biggest sets of batteries, the house bank, is connected to the DC circuit breaker panel at the lower helm. This bank powers the boat lighting, microwave, refrigerator, pumps, heads, anchor windlass, dinghy davit, inverter and electronics.

Sentry DC Battery Charger

To the right of the helm are the controls for the “Sentry” battery charger. This battery charger has been replaced by the inverter but remains installed as a back up charger. Charter guests should leave the Sentry charger AC breaker “OFF”.

DC Battery Switches

There are several battery switches in the engine room.

On the forward engine room bulkhead are three emergency battery shutoff switches, one each for the “port”, “starboard”, and “generator” batteries. Charter guests should not need to use these switches.

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On the engine room centerline between the engines there is a bank of “house” batteries under the walkway platform. On the aft side of this battery bank is a pair of heavy duty switches that connect to the inverter and house bank. Charter guests should not need to use these switches

Engines & Transmissions – Engine controls, checking engine oil, transmission oil, sea strainers

General Discussion

The main engines are Caterpillar 3116TA turbocharged/aftercooled diesels each producing a maximum of 300 horsepower.

The engines are electrically controlled at the lower helm by a breaker and start and stop buttons; at the upper helm there are also stop and start buttons.

On engine start, no long warm-up is required! Simply start the engines a few minutes before you leave the dock to begin in-harbor maneuvering.

Do not run the engines over 1300 RPM until engine temperature reaches 150 degrees.

Engine gauges are at each helm. Each cluster has engine oil pressure; engine temperature; tachometer; and alternator current in amps

Electronic Engine Controls (Glendinning)

This new Electronic Engine Control (EEC) manages throttle position and transmission (gear) shifting. It combines gear shifting and throttle position in one unit at each helm. Operation is described in an instruction sheet located in the front pocket of the Guest Reference Manual. More detailed instructions are found in the Glendinning Operator’s Quick Reference Guide also in the same location.

Engine Room

Access to the engine room is through a floor hatch in the salon and a door under the stairway in the forward berth. For safety, the hatch should be secured it in the “open” position with the safety strap. Engine room lighting is turned on by a switch in the ship’s DC breaker panel by the helm.

In the engine room, on the forward bulkhead are the main DC switches, DC electrical control equipment, built-in halon fire protection system and a flashlight. To starboard is the ship’s main DC wiring panel.

On the starboard side from forward aft are: the stbd engine starting battery and generator starting batteries in their boxes, spare parts and filters tub, stbd engine seawater through-hull with its valve and strainer, emergency bilge pump valve, saltwater washdown tank and pump, stbd engine and transmission, diesel furnace (on ceiling), engine muffler, stbd fuel tank and fuel sight gauge. A fuel distribution manifold is mounted on the midship side of the fuel tank. Charter guests should not manipulate the valves.

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Down the center from the forward aft is a removable teak floorboard grid. Below the grid is an unused through-hull, valve and strainer; washdown seawater intake through-hull, valve and strainer; electric bilge pump, emergency hand operated bilge pump intake hose, engine operated emergency bilge pumps intake hoses, house battery bank (under platform), generator seawater intake through-hull, valve and strainer; Onan 8 KW generator, head holding tank and oil change pump (both under the generator) and finally the holding tank overboard pump (Macerator on DC panel).

To port on the engine room bulkhead is the back-up (Sentry) battery charger and forward thruster battery charger. Then from forward aft is the Magna-Sine inverter, port engine battery bank in box, replacement liquids tub, owners tub, water usage meter, water pump, water pressure accumulator tank, water heater, port engine seawater through-hull with its valve and strainer, emergency bilge pump valve, port engine and transmission, engine and generator mufflers, port fuel tank and fuel sight guage and on the tank’s side, the fuel filters for the port engine and generator. On the aft bulkhead are the fuel filters for the starboard engine and the aft thruster battery charger. The propeller shafts lead from the transmission couplings through the hull via virtually maintenance-free shaft logs/packing glands.

Checking the Engines

The engines and the engine room must be checked daily.

Check the Engine Oil Level

With the engines stopped, the oil level should be in the cross-hatched area on the dipstick located on the inboard side of each engine. Use a paper towel from the roll provided, wipe the stick, reinsert, and take reading. The distance between the two ends of the cross-hatched area is about 1.5 quarts. Add only enough oil to bring it up above the "add" mark, say a quart, using the 30w oil provided and stored in the replacement liquids tub adjacent to the inverter on the port side. The oil fill tube on each engine is located on the inboard side. The cap has a T-handle.

After adding oil, be sure to tighten the cap, but do not over-tighten. DO NOT OVERFILL the crankcase (above the "full" mark), as the engine will quickly waste excessive lubricant. If oil is required more often than every few days, call SJY. Daily checks of the pans under the engines should show no more than an occasional drip.

Check the Transmission Oil Level

Check under each transmission daily for leaks. The Seahome Maintenance Pro will check the transmission oil level before every cruise. Charter guests need only check the transmission oil level if you find oil under the transmission or if a transmission shifts erratically. Low transmission oil is a serious matter.

To check the transmission oil level, with the engine idling in neutral, remove the transmission dipstick. (Wear provided ear protection.) Wipe it with a towel, reinsert it, and take a reading. If the level is below the add mark, stop the engine, add a cup of 30w oil from the liquids tub. Oil is added after removing

Forward cabin engine room access.

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the square headed plug in the top of the transmission case. Replace the plug, then start the engine and measure again as above. Do not overfill, for to do so could rupture the seals.

Check the Coolant Level.

The coolant tank is located above and forward of each engine. The tank is connected, via plastic tubing to a plastic coolant recovery tank mounted on the adjacent vertical pole. The cap on the metal coolant tank should NOT be opened when the engine is hot. To determine whether coolant is needed, observe the level of coolant in the plastic coolant recovery tanks. Note that the levels when the engines are hot or cold are very different. Add premixed coolant from the plastic jug in the fluids tub if the levels are more than an inch or so lower than the Cold Level Mark when the engines are cold.

Check the Room

At least daily, look carefully at the entire room to ensure that all is well. Pay special attention to the pans under the engines and transmissions: while a few drips are normal, there shouldn't pooling of any fluids! Every few days (using the flashlight) check the bilge for fluids under the wooden grids and under the generator.

Check the Sea Strainers (Also see Thru-Hulls & Sea Strainers on page 32)

Once each week or immediately if the Raw Water Alarm Sounds or the generator fails to run, check the appropriate sea strainer for accumulated debris. The main engine strainers are just forward of each engine. The generator strainer is just forward of the generator cabinet. Before removing the cap from the sea strainer, close the seacock by loosening the small T-handle at the thru-hull and moving the Yellow Handle to the closed (horizontal) position then tightening the T-handle. To remove the cap, use the spanner dangling from the starboard engine sea strainer. Pull out the strainer and rinse out the debris in a bucket of water. A bucket with line attached is in the lazaret. When reassembling the strainer ensure that the rubber O-ring in the cap is in place and the base of the strainer is positioned in the center of the unit. If the strainer protrudes to far, the lower end is not centered. Loosen the T-handle, open the seacock (vertical) and tighten the T-handle.

Water Systems – Fill, Heater, Pump, Sea Water Pump, Showers

Fresh Water Fill Location There are two water tanks located under the aft edge of the lazaret hatches. These are filled by using a fill pipe on each. Fill the tanks individually (because the interconnecting pipe is small but they drain together.) To calculate usage, you can use the yardsticks (stored on top of each tank) to “dip” the tanks or use the water meter in the engine room. Be aware that the yardstick extends only to the half-full level in the tanks. ie it takes 44 gallons in the tank to reach the yardstick.

Fresh Water Usage: In the engine room, adjacent to the water pump is a water meter that measures total usage as it occurs. Unfortunately, the meter can not be reset. Note: Reading the meter is tricky. The rolling numbers provide thousands, hundreds and tens of gallons. The moving red pointer provides the final digit of the reading. For reference, the current reading is about 3,780 gallons. Record the reading after tank filling. Then read each day while checking the engine room. The difference is the water usage since filling . The filled capacity is 176 gallons.

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Fresh Water Heater (11 gallons) The water heater uses two energy sources, (1) heat from the engine, so that whenever the boat is running, or has recently run, there is hot water; and (2) 110 volt AC from shore power or generator. (The water heater AC breaker must be "on".) The heater is insulated well enough to keep hot water overnight without power if use is minimal.

Fresh Water Pump The fresh water pump is located outboard of the port engine. Provided the "F.W. Pump" circuit breaker is "On", the pump will run whenever its built-in pressure switch detects low water pressure. This circuit breaker can be left “On” for the cruise.

Salt Water Pump The boat has a sea water pump to provide pressure to the anchor washdown faucet. The pump and its through hull, valve and strainer are located in the engine room forward and outboard of the starboard engine. It is a good idea to keep the “S.W. Pump “ breaker in the DC panel “Off” when not in use, lest the pipe connections break or leak and flood the boat.

Waste Water – Sinks & Showers Waste water from the sinks and showers (but not from the toilets) is dumped overboard in accordance with U.S. and Canadian law. From the galley sink and head basins, the water simply flows by gravity overboard. Since the floor of the showers is below the water line, shower sump pumps operate to lift the water back above the waterline and dump it overboard.

It is therefore very important that the “drain pump” breaker in the DC panel be left “On” continually and then the switch in the shower must be turned on during a shower. Fuel System – Fill, Filters, Measuring, Furnace

The diesel fuel aboard Seahome is carried in two tanks of 300 gallons capacity each located aft in the engine room. The tanks each hold 260 gallons when filled to the top of the sight tube, which is the chartering standard. The starboard tank also supplies fuel to the diesel furnace, but this use is minimal

Filling the Fuel Tanks Fuel each tank separately, taking the hose over the forward cabin top to reach the opposite side deck fill pipe. (Please don’t drag the hose over the teak rails, gelcoat, forward cabin-top stainless steel handles or decks: have someone help.)(Pad the rails with the Sunbrella rail covers or a terry cloth towel or drip pads.) All are stored in the helm step to the deck along with fuel fill cap wrenches, extra oil spill pads, and rubber gloves.

Fueling will go smoothly if you follow these procedures:

• Before fueling, open the valve at the top and bottom of each tank’s sight tube to allow the sight tube fuel level to match the tank level. Record the amount of fuel necessary to bring the fuel level to the top of the site tube (260 gallons) for each tank. Close the site tube valves after reading.

• Form a doughnut around the filler hole using an oil pad or paper towels. Start slowly, control the fill rate. This will avoid blow-back/spattering.

• For charter guests, just add the amount of fuel necessary to bring the tank up to 260 gallons. Thus, it is not necessary to “top off” the tank or fill it up to the deck.

• Please make every effort to prevent fuel drips or spatters onto the teak decks.

• Caution: The holding tank pump out connection is also located on the starboard side deck near

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one of the fuel fill locations. Do not mistake it for the fuel fill.

Fuel Filters

Diesel engines require absolutely clean fuel to operate. As a result, there are two kinds of fuel filters on the boat. The primary filters are mounted in pairs on the inner side of the port fuel tank and on the aft bulkhead. Each pair of filters is controlled by a valve allowing one or the other to be selected. Thus, if one filter is clogged the other can be selected. The secondary filter is on the engine itself. It is very fine and is the final protection to ensure that the fuel is absolutely clean. Filters are checked and change regularly by our Seahome Maintenance Professional. Charter guests should not adjust the filter valves.

Fuel Measurement System

There is a sight gauge on the forward, inboard corner of each fuel tank. The valve at the top and bottom of each site gauge must be open to allow the gauge to read properly. For Safety, the valves must be closed after reading. Each tank contains about 260 gallons when filled to the top of the site gauge. At the end of the charter, each charter guest is asked to fill to this level.

Fuel Level Sight Tube with Valves at Top and Bottom

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Furnace

The boat is equipped with an Espar Diesel D-5 Forced Air Furnace. The fuel comes from the starboard engine fuel tank, but it uses a negligible amount of fuel, about a pint each hour when running. The on/off switch and thermostat are mounted on the inboard side of the lower helm seat. As an aid in setting the thermostat, a “click” can be heard as the dial is moved past the present room temperature. CAUTION: The furnace exhaust is on the starboard side of the hull below the salon entry door. It can be very hot! Do not place fenders in front of it nor let anything contact it. Galley - Barbecue, Propane Tank, Stove, Microwave, Refrigerator, Ice Maker, Freezer

Barbecue A propane fueled barbecue is located on the sundeck railing. To operate the barbecue: Open the propane tank valve; open the lid; open the burner valve; push the lighter button several times until lit or use a butane match (from port salon step drawer) through the lighter hole.

Propane Tank (for 3-Burner Stove and Oven)

For safety, the propane tank is located above the galley in the port forward seat on the flying bridge. There is a manual gas valve on the propane tank. This valve is used only when exchanging tanks; it should remain fully opened. There is also a second valve, a “solenoid valve”, in the propane line immediately after the manual valve. This electric valve is controlled by an overhead switch in the galley where the operator can shut off the propane supply to the stove when it is not being used. Caution: The Propane Control (LP Gas) switch in the Galley must be “Off” when the stove is not being used. Stove

Princess propane stove with three top burners and a thermostatically-controlled oven/broiler. To Light a Burner:

1) The propane valve circuit breaker in the DC panel must be “On”. 2) The “propane” switch on the overhead panel above the stove must be “On”. (when the switch is on, a red square on the panel will illuminate). 3) Turn the knob for your selected burner to “IGN” and press and hold it in, then press the black “Burner Ignite” button on the left several times until the burner lights. 4) After the burner lights, continue to hold the knob in for a few seconds while the thermocouple heats up.

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Then adjust the flame.

To Light the Oven: (Detailed instructions are printed on the inside of the oven door.)

The operator must light the oven “pilot light” when the oven is to be used but first light a top burner and let it burn for a minute or so to ensure that air is purged from the gas lines.

1) As above, ensure that the Gas Stove circuit breaker and propane switch overhead are “On”. 2) Locate the pilot light assembly at the right front under the oven. 3) Turn the oven control to “light”, press and hold the red “Push to Lite” button in, use a match or

butane lighter (located in top drawer under sink) to light the pilot light. Hold the red button in for another fifteen seconds after the pilot is lit to allow time for the thermocouple to heat up. If the pilot will not stay lit, hold the button in longer!

4) Adjust the thermostat to the desired temperature. Note: The oven burner will not light immediately but will after a 20-30 second delay!

5) After baking, you may leave the control in the “light” position if the oven will be used again within an hour or so. The pilot light will remain on.

6) When finished with the oven turn the control “off”. The pilot light will go out. If finished with the stove, turn off the propane switch overhead and the Gas Stove breaker in the AC panel.

Microwave

The Princess microwave operates conventionally. It should only be used for short-term heating or reheating (less than 10 minutes) unless the generator is “On” or the boat is plugged into shore power.

Refrigerator (Galley); Ice Maker (Salon); Freezer (Aft Stateroom)

The boat is equipped with a refrigerator in the galley, an ice maker in the salon and a freezer in the aft stateroom. The refrigerator runs on 12 volt DC (power from the Fridge circuit breaker); however, the ice maker and freezer run on 110 volts AC only (powered from the Ice Maker and Freezer breakers in the AC Panel). They require AC power at least twice daily for an hour or two each time in order to maintain temperature. Refrigerator temperature is controlled by a thermostat inside. Set it as required after allowing the refrigerator to stabilize for a few hours after loading. The freezer has a similar temperature control inside the cold box. The icemaker does not have an adjustable thermostat. It does have an “On – Off” switch just below the door. Raising the bail, stops ice production.

Head Systems – Toilets, Holding Tank, Level Indicator, Pump Out, Overboard Discharge

Overview It is forbidden to discharge untreated sewage in inland US. waters, an area that includes all U.S. waters in which this boat operates. Thus, the boat holding tank must only be emptied at proper pump-out stations while in U.S. waters. However, Canada permits discharge of sewage when outside of confined harbors or bays.

Marine Toilets The boat is equipped with two marine toilets. These new Thetford Tecma toilets are very reliable. They are controlled by a white rocker button near each head counter top. Pushing the top part of the button adds water. Pushing the bottom part flushes the toilet. Caution: Only human (or animal) waste, or the toilet paper supplied with the boat, should be put in

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the toilets! Facial tissues, tampons, towels etc. will clog the system. These items must be placed in the waste basket.

Each toilet has a system that macerates waste and puts it either into the holding tank or directly overboard, as determined by the setting on a Y-valve under the sink in each head. The Y-valve is secured in the Holding Tank position. In US waters this valve must be in the Holding Tank position.

Holding Tank There is a 40-gallon holding tank in the engine room beneath the generator. Unless the Y-valves are set to pump the waste overboard (see above), the sewage from each toilet goes to the holding tank.

Head Holding Tank Level Indicator The boat is equipped with a holding tank level indicator in the aft head compartment. A yellow light indicates that the tank is one-half to ¾ full; a red light indicates that the tank is full and no additional waste should be added. For the gauge to operate, the switch labeled “Level Indicator” in the DC Power Panel must be “On”.

Holding Tank Deck Pumpout A holding tank “Waste” fitting is located on the starboard side deck adjacent to the salon. The cap wrench is located in step from the lower helm to the deck. A shore-side pump out hose can be connected to this fitting. Any drips on the teak deck should be rinsed immediately.

Holding Tank Overboard Pump If not in U.S. waters or a "no-discharge zone ie bay or harbor" in Canada, the tank can be dumped overboard by turning "On" the “Macerator” switch in the DC panel. The tank should only be emptied while underway. The pump is located in the engine room at the aft bulkhead. It takes about ten minutes to empty a full holding tank. If bubbles come out from under the starboard side of the hull, the tank is empty. Check the tank level indicator in the aft head to confirm that the red and yellow lights are extinguished. When finished, turn off the “Macerator” switch in the DC Panel. If the pump runs dry for an extended period it may be damaged. It is advisable to set a timer when the pump is turned on so that turning it “Off” is not forgotten.

Through-Hulls With Gate Valves (some with sea strainers) Under Water Line (also see chart in Seahome Charter Guest Reference Manual)

1. forward head under sink, serves toilet Y-valve

2. engine room forward, also sea strainer, serves salt water washdown

3. engine room, forward between stringers unused (2 each) (closed and capped)

4. engine room, forward of each engine, also sea strainer, one serves each engine

5. engine room forward of generator, also sea strainer, serves generator

6. engine room, forward of aft bulkhead, serves holding tank (y-valve)

7. aft head under sink, serves toilet Y-valve

8. aft bilge, under aft berth floor, unused (closed and capped)

Sea Strainer Inspection and Cleaning

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The sea strainers protect the engines, generator and sea water washdown from water-borne debris which might block internal passages.

To quickly inspect a sea strainer: Place a flashlight (stored on engine room forward bulkhead) against the glass and look through the opposite side of the glass for debris.

To clean a sea strainer:

1) Follow the hose (pipe) from the strainer to the valve at the hull. On one side of the valve will be a yellow lever handle to open or close the valve. On the opposite side there is a small T-handle that tightens the valve.

2) To close the lever valve, first loosen the small T-handle (the valve may drip or leak), turn the valve lever so it is perpendicular to the thru-hull or hose (ie parallel to the hull). Tighten the T-handle. If the valve lever is difficult to move a removable handle extension (small metal pipe) is located on the valve handle serving the port engine.

3) Unscrew the top cover of the sea strainer (use the spanner wrench attached to the starboard engine sea strainer). Remove the strainer by pulling it out the top of the assembly. Rinse the strainer thoroughly (slosh in a water filled bucket if necessary) and, remove any debris from the inside the glass housing before reassembling the strainer assembly.

4) Reinsert the strainer. The strainer bottom rests on a stand at the bottom of the strainer. The strainer must be centered on the stand to ensure that the top of the strainer does not extend into the threads. Ensure that the O-ring in the cap is in place and tighten the cap. (If the cap does not tighten easily, the strainer is NOT properly centered on the stand at the bottom.) Loosen the small T-handle, open the lever valve (should be in line with the thru-hull itself or its hose). Tighten the small T-handle or the valve will leak. Ensure that the cap does not leak.

Failure to re-open the lever valve will overheat the engine or damage the pumps!

Closeup of generator sea strainer, through hull and valve just ahead of generator. The valve lever is on the left. The T-handle is on the right between the strainer housing and the hull.

Thank You

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The Owners thank their good friend, Joe Coons, for convincing us to buy a Grand Banks 42, for playing the lead role in preparing the boat for charter and for assisting us in preparation of these notes.

Seahome Owners Notes 1-10-21