Interview with ANA Japanese chef Mr. Tsutomu Totsuka

And it’s all By Design.

“It’s not the place or the ingredient that make the food delicious. It’s always come from the wholehearted chef who deliver the

taste to their guest.”

Washoku is our daily meal in Japan. It’s the essentials to Japanese cuisine. Rice is a fundamental part of the dish and, compared to many other cultures, we eat a lot of fermented food, think soy sauces, miso, natto, etc. Foreigners might not find it too favorable, but this is what we eat on a daily basis.

What is Washoku to Japanese people?Question 1:

From Chef Totsuka:

Due to the unique geographic location of Japan, different areas can habitat vastly different climates; consider the subtropics of Okinawa and Amami compared to the heavy snows of a Northern Japanese winter. So Japanese ingredients are rich in variety. We try to bring all of the seasonality and diversity of ingredients to our in-flight meals. For instance, in fall we’ll make a Japanese dessert with autumnal elements and we’ll enhance seasonal flavors with garnishes and decorations, like platting autumn meals with red or orange leaves.

How is Japanese food significant to ANA?

Question 2:

From Chef Totsuka:

Right now we are running our 'Tastes of JAPAN' by ANA project. During certain period of time we introduce regional beverages and cuisine to ANA flights and airport lounges from certain prefectures. Different prefectures are selected in 3-month cycles and we present ingredients from those prefectures. This program helps people experience the charms and attractions of Japan's various regions, as well as shows our love and support for all regions of Japan.

Question 3:

Where do you select your ingredients? 

From Chef Totsuka:

Studies show that under the cabin pressure, passengers’ tastes are duller and they have a hard time clearly differentiating the real taste of food and drinks. However, many traditional Japanese dishes use one very important ingredient to enhance flavors, the right amount of it makes the perfect palette for in-flight dining.

What are your biggest challenges in preparing in-flight meals??

Question 4:

From Chef Totsuka:

When we prepare Washoku, the ingredient we use is Dashi, a type of Japanese soup stock made from dried fish and kelp. In Japan, the stock is mainly used for Japanese stewed dishes and is the most essential to our in-flight catering. Adding Dashi solves this bland flavor problem, and yet it creates a challenge at the same time. Our catering factories have the equipment to make enough Dashi. However, if we need to increase the amount of dishes we prepare, it would require more Dashi and our current equipment would not suffice. Our culinary talents have been spending the last year developing a solution, a new type of concentrated, more flavorful Dashi, which we will start using in December.

It may be difficult to understand how Dashi creates the bold flavor of Washoku. It starts with understanding that, besides the four major taste buds, there is one additional taste called Umami. Umami is the pleasant savory taste. Dashi elevates the distinct taste of each ingredient and reflects on our taste buds as Umami. This level of savory goodness means food tastes delicious

To us, it’s the matter of the “host” and the “guest.” Washoku isn’t simply the food to us, it’s a part of the culture that we consider under the tenants of Omotenashi (Japanese hospitality.) Elsewhere, providing a meal might just be letting your customer fill their stomach and pay in return, but in Washoku, we consider serving our guests with more than the food but also with an unforgettable experience of warm hospitality.

Washoku seems having a different meaning for Japanese & foreigners. What do you think about that?

Question 5:

From Chef Totsuka:

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