technical development portfolio

Technical Development

Nahdin Sabla

Pattern makers are the technical backbone to the garment manufacturing process,

and have more control than any other single person to produce a quality outcome.

Pattern making is vital for designers to fully comprehend the apparel development

process.

Ted Baker

Ulyana Sergeenko

Product Development Process

Drape on the Stand

Digitize & Adjust on Gerber

Plot Pattern & Cut Pieces

Fuse and Stitch Darts

Construction Comments

Fit Session DESIGNER: Nahdin Sabla SIZE RANGE: 10 → 14

BRAND: NSY SAMPLE SIZE: 12

SEASON: Spring 2017 DATE FIRST SENT: 19/05/2016

FIT TYPE: Fitted on bust/waist DATE REVISED: 26/05/2016

PATTERN CUTTER: Nahdin Sabla FABRICATION: 2 mts M / 2 mts L

MODEL : NSY-017-DRESS STATUS: First Sample

DESCRIPTION : Off Shoulder dress, top fitted with a inverted V Shape opening at the center

front, A line skirt with curved hem

Comments:

• Rotate b ust dart into waist • Remoce pocket? Eliminate pockets from design?

• Add 2 cm at hips (midway from pocket) • Move sleeve seam in 2/3 cm towards CF

• Reduce 2 cm from bk bodice at waist egde • Add 1 cm to waist circunference (waistband)

to nothing on side seam • Draft 20 cm long straps 1.5 cm width

• Reduce 1 cm at side seam ft bodice • Increase 1 cm all way through sleeve

to 0.7 at CFT • Add balance notches ( use 50% if needed)

• Drop BND 6cm CBK to 2 cm at edge

• Reduce sleeve 2 cm at back to 0 at the curve

Fit Report NSYFirst Sample Toile Nahdin Sabla

Dart Rotation Designs

Dart Rotation Toiles DESIGNER: Nahdin Sabla SIZE RANGE: 10 → 14

BRAND: NSY SAMPLE SIZE: 12

SEASON: Spring 2017 DATE FIRST SENT: 19/05/2016

FIT TYPE: Fitted on bust/waist DATE REVISED: 26/05/2016

PATTERN CUTTER: Nahdin Sabla FABRICATION: 2 mts M / 2 mts L

MODEL : NSY-017-DRESS STATUS: First Sample

DESCRIPTION : Off Shoulder dress, top fitted with a inverted V Shape opening at the center

front, A line skirt with curved hem

Two Darts Toile One Seam Toile

Three Darts Toile Approved with the following modifications:

• First Dart (next to side seam) reduce 1 cm

• Thrid Dart reduce 2.5 cm

Fit Report NSYDesign Reconsideration Nahdin Sabla

Grading TOP Nahdin Sabla

DESIGNER: Nahdin Sabla SIZE RANGE: 10 → 14

BRAND: NSY SAMPLE SIZE: 12

SEASON: Spring 2017 DATE FIRST SENT: 4/03/2016

FIT TYPE: Fitted on bust/waist DATE REVISED: 27/05/2016

PATTERN CUTTER: Nahdin Sabla FABRICATION: 2 mts M / 2 mts L

MODEL : NSY-017-DRESS STATUS: First Sample

DESCRIPTION : Off Shoulder dress, tops fitted with a inverted V Shape opening at the center

front, A line skirt with curved hem

GIRTH MEASUREMENTS AND TOLERANCE ARE WHOLE MEASURENTS

10Increm

ent12

Increm

ent14

Toleran

(+/-)

24.7 0.3 25 0.3 25.3 0.5 Height Girth Length

25.9 0.3 26.2 0.3 26.5 0.5 X X

65.8 4 69.8 4 73.8 1 Grade type

88 4 92 4 96 1 Zero Point FT

34.6 1 35.6 1 36.6 0.5 Zero Point BK

27.5 1 28.5 1 29.5 0.5 Zero Point SL

41.6 0.3 41.9 0.3 42.2 0.5 Fit Category

29.9 1.2 31.1 1.2 32.3 0.5 Comments:

24.2 0.6 24.8 0.6 25.4 0.5

12.5 4 16.5 4 20.5 0.5

10.7 4 14.7 4 18.7 0.5

8.5 0 8.5 0 8.5 0.2

10.5 0 10.5 0 10.5 0.2

11.5 none 11.5 none 11.5 none

14 none 14 none 14 none

13.2 none 13.2 none 13.2 none

17 0 17 0 17

9 0 9 0 9

50 0 50 0 50 none

4 0 4 0 4 0.5

Waist

Bust (2.5cm from armhole)

Across Back (along top edge)

NSYGrading Chart

sample

size

Measurement CM

CB Length (top edghe to waist)

CF Length ( top edge to waist)

Grading Specification

Across Front (along top edge)

Sleeve length (from head)

Bicep

Wrist

Back Armhole

Front Armhole

sleeve dart length

zip length

facing depth

Cut out length from waist to point

Cut out width

center front dart length

middle dart length

side seam dart length

side seam length from under arm to waist

Increm. To be

applied:

three dimensional

Bust static waist moving upwards

center back

center bicep line

tight

TAPE

Zero Point

Zero Point

X =0.3Y =0

X =0.3Y =0.5

X = 0Y = 1

X = 0Y = 1

X =0.3Y =-0.4

X =0.3Y = 0.4

X =0.3Y = 0

X =0Y = -0.6

X =0Y =-0.3

X = 0Y =0.6

X = 0Y =0.3

X =0.3Y =0

X =0.3Y =0.5

X = 0Y = 1

X = 0Y = 1

X = 0Y =0.5

X = 0Y = 0

X = 0Y = 0

For all dart points

SKIRT Nahdin Sabla

DESIGNER: Nahdin Sabla SIZE RANGE: 10 → 14

BRAND: NSY SAMPLE SIZE: 12

SEASON: Spring 2017 DATE FIRST SENT: 4/03/2016

FIT TYPE: Fitted on bust/waist DATE REVISED: 27/05/2016

PATTERN CUTTER: Nahdin Sabla FABRICATION: 2 mts M / 2 mts L

MODEL : NSY-017-DRESS STATUS: First Sample

DESCRIPTION : Off Shoulder dress, tops fitted with a inverted V Shape opening at the center

front, A line skirt with curved hem

GIRTH MEASUREMENTS AND TOLERANCE ARE WHOLE MEASURENTS

10Increm

ent12

Increm

ent14

Toleran

(+/-)

104.5 0 104.5 0 104.5 0.5 Height Girth Length

CF Length ( top edge of waistband to hem) 106.2 0 106.2 0 106.2 0.5 X X

waistband depth 3.6 3.6 3.6 1 Grade type

waist along top edge of waistband 63.6 4 67.6 4 71.6 1 Zero Point FT

66.1 4 70.1 4 74.1 1 Zero Point BK

88.2 4 92.2 4 96.2 1 Fit Category

102.9 4 106.9 4 110.9 1 Comments:

177.4 4 181.4 4 185.4 1

Measurement CM

CB Length (top edge of waistband to hem)

waist along lower edge of waistband

Top Hip ( 10cm down from waist)

Low Hip ( 20cm down from waist)

Hem Circumference (measured straight)

Semi- fitting

Grading Chart

Grading Specification

Increm. To

be applied:

two dimensional

center back

center back

NSY

sample

size

X = 0Y = 1

X = 0Y = 1

X = 0

X = 0Y = 0

X = 0Y = 2

X = 0Y = 0

X = 0Y = 1

X = 0Y = 0

X = 0Y = 2

X = 0Y = 1

X = 0Y = 0

X = 0Y = 1

X = 0Y = 1

X = 0Y = 1

Zero Point

Zero Point

X = 0Y = 2

X = 0Y = 2

Marker Final Marker for main fabric: 24meters, 10.cm + 5% waste → 24 meters + 1.2 = 25.3 mts.

Final Marker Lining: LN: 19meters, 21.cm + 5% waste → 19 meters + 0.95 = 19.95 mts.

Fitting on Optitex

From Gerber to Optitex

THANK YOU