a sauces tale.pdf
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THE
GRUBHUB
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If you thumb through cookbooks from every imaginableculinary tradition, the variations seem infnite, and thoughthere are a million different ways to make stew or braise
or soup, the underlying structure of all these dishes is verynearly universal. Let me propose a radically simplifed
version of that structure.
Dice some aromatic plants
Saute them in some fat
Brown piece(s) of meat
Put everything in a pot
Add some water (or stock etc)Simmer, for a long time
A UniversalStructure
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The powerful role wa-ter plays within thesepots might not seem aspotent as the wild water
that carves canyons andcoastlines, but its powersare impressive even so.Water will conduct heat,evenly and efciently intoevery cranny of whateveris cooking. If that happensto be dried seeds, wa-ter will bring them back
to life. Sometimes liter-ally by inspiring them togerminate, or some-times guratively, bymaking them soft andplump enough to eat. Butwater, sufciently heated,can kill, too, dispatchingdangerous bacteria in ourfood. it will sterilize meatand detoxify plants andfungi. It will leach out saltand bitterness. water ina pot can bring togetherfar-ung taxonomic king-doms, marrying plantsand animals and fungi,so that they might acton one another swap a-vours, alter textures. Giv-en enough time and theproper amount of heat,
water will break down thtoughest bres in botplants and animals, tranforming them into foo
Given still more time, will break these foodstufdown into rich paste aneventually, into a tasty nutritious liquid: a dipersed phase of its contiuous self. But what watebreaks down it also reasembles along new line
Water will extract molcules from one ingredieand diffuse them so ththey might encounter anact on the molecules another ingredient. Breaing some chemical bondand forging new onewhich might be aromaavours, or nutrients. In pot, water is the mediuof avour as well as heaallowing spices and otheseasoning’s to get arounand make their presencfelt. It also dilutes the efect of the most pungespices, like peppers maing them more amenablGiven heat and time watesoftens, blends, balanceharmonizes, and marrie
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Method:
To begin add the garlic and ginger to a blenderwith a splash of water and blitz to a smooth
ne paste. Now set aside. Heat the oil in a
large sauce pan over medium heat. Add the
onions and fry for 25 minutes until they begin
to change colour and go brown. Stir a few
times through cooking making sure it doesn’t
stick to the bottom of the pan. Don’t rush this
as the colour of the onions adds more avour
to the curry and also thickens the base gravy.Add the whole spices and fry for a further minute.
Add the tomatoes and the tomato puree and
stir well. Continue to soften the tomatoes for 4
minutes making sure to mash them slightly with
the back of the spoon. Add the garlic
and ginger paste and stir well cooking out the
raw avours for a couple of minutes. Add the
coriander, chilli and turmeric powder and fry
for a few seconds. Now add the lamb chunks,
stir well coating the pieces with the spices and
sealing the lamb for 10 minutes. Add water
and bring to a boil. Season to taste. Simmer
on a low heat with the lid on for 50 minutes
stirring half way through cooking.
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B e
a t T h e
B l o a t
Fermented foods are foodthat have been through aprocess of lactofermentatioin which natural bacteria feon the sugar and starch in
the food creating lactic aciThis process preserves thefood, and creates beneciaenzymes, b-vitamins, Omega-3 fatty acids, and varioustrains of probiotics. Theyhave the unique ability toease digestive discomfortrelated to having either toomuch or too little stomach
acid. Unfortunately, over thpast century many probiotfoods have fallen from fa-vour due to changes in theway we now preserve foodparticularly vegetables. Sathese time-honored traditiofoods have been largely loin our society. When fresh
vegetables weren’t as readily available throughout theyear, they were often pre-served through fermentati
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The Cold Fire
One of the most desirable and earliestferments, is the fermentation of alcoholicbeverages. People have been questing foralcohol since the moment they stumbled
apon it. We plundered nature for sources ofsugar we could turn into alcohol. Yeasts
feed off these sugars, Which in turn
ferments. There are ways of doing it still
commonly used in the Amazon that are
ingenious. It begins by taking a starchy
rooted called yucca, and chewing it. This
is done collectively then spat into a vat. To
create the drink Masato.
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In our saliva there are
enzymes that break starches
down into sugar. So if saliva
is not used the yucca will
not mature well as it cannot
ferment. Fermentation was
seen as a cold re which can
transform things from one
state into another.
There is a beer before bread theory which has been suggested by anthro-
pologists. That the real reason for settling down and growing grain was
motivated by the desire of having ferment-able crops, as collecting grainin the wild is a really pain staking process.
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KIMCHI
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Napa cabbage - 1 (2-pound)
Kosher salt - 1/2 cup
Cold water - About 12 cups
Daikon radish, peeled and cut into
2-inch matchsticks - 8 ounces
4 medium scallions, ends trimmed,
cut into 1-inch pieces (use all parts)
Korean red pepper powder - 1/3 cup
Fish sauce - 1/4 cup
Minced fresh ginger - 1/4 cup
Minced garlic cloves - 1 (bs)
(from 6 to 8 medium cloves)
Korean salted shrimp, minced - 2 (ts)
Granulated sugar - 1 1/2 (ts)
Cut the cabbage in half lengthwise,then crosswise into 2-inch pieces,discarding the root end. Place in alarge bowl, sprinkle with the salt,and toss with your hands until thecabbage is coated. Add enoughcold water to just cover, making surethe cabbage is submerged. Coverwith plastic wrap or a baking sheetand let sit at room temperature atleast 12 hours and up to 24 hours.Place a colander in the sink, drainthe cabbage, and rinse with coldwater. Gently squeeze out the excessliquid and transfer to a mediumbowl; set aside. Place the remainingingredients in a large bowl and stirto combine. Add the cabbage andtoss with your hands until evenly
combined and the cabbage isthoroughly coated with the mixture.Pack the mixture tightly into a clean2-quart or 2-liter glass jar with a tighttting lid and seal the jar. Let sit in acool, dark place for 24 hours. Openthe jar to let the gases escape, thenreseal and refrigerate at least 48hours before eating (kimchi is bestafter fermenting about 1 week).Refrigerate for up to 1 month.
Method:
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