a m d 225 patternmaking i: drafting and flat pattern m d 225 patternmaking i: drafting and flat ......

18

Click here to load reader

Upload: phunghanh

Post on 28-Apr-2018

215 views

Category:

Documents


1 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 1 of 18

A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management Department Apparel Merchandising and Design Program Fall 2016 LeBaron 2063

Instructor:Dr. Ellen McKinney, Ph.D. Office: 1071B LeBaron 515-294-7536 Email: [email protected] Sections: Section 1 M W F 10:00 AM - 11:30 AM Course Description from Catalog: (1-4) Cr. 3. F.S. Prereq: A M D 204, A M D 221. Permission of instructor Drafting and flat pattern manipulation methods for women's apparel. Interaction of fabric characteristics with style features. Analysis of fit and design; problem solving. Objective / Outcomes:

Communication

Communicate with clear purpose, workable organization, and effective style in written, oral, visual, and electronic (WOVE) formats without distracting errors in usage or convention.

• Correctly use patternmaking documents including pattern procedure lists, cost sheets, pattern cards, and specification sheets.

• Develop sewing procedure lists for original style patterns.

Self-assessment/ Self-reflection

Consistently and realistically analyze and evaluate one's own knowledge, abilities, and actions in comparison to professional standards and create action plans to enhance personal and professional efficacy.

• Evaluate one’s own patternmaking abilities in comparison to professional standards.

Critical thinking

Page 2: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 2 of 18 Generate, acquire and evaluate information based on scientific evidence, creative processes, and logical and ethical reasoning to make decisions and solve problems in one's personal, professional and community endeavors.

• Name the patternmaking tools and their function for drafting patterns. • Prepare a body form and human model with the appropriate markings and waist tape before

taking measurements. Take measurements needed for accurate patternmaking. • Name and label the basic pattern parts and their relationship to patternmaking. • Explain the importance of the basic pattern set as the basis for understanding fit, line, and

balance. • Learn key patternmaking skills including checking pattern accuracy and standard labeling. • Draft and fit basic sloper patterns: bodice, sleeve, skirt, torso, trouser, jacket, and dartless knit. • Sew and fit 1st samples of sloper drafts. • Manipulate sloper patterns to create style patterns.

o Name and apply the three major patternmaking principles and corollaries in creating design patterns. Principle #1 Dart Manipulation Principle #2 Added Fullness Principle #3 Contouring

• Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to slopers. • Sew 1st samples of and fit original style patterns. • Select appropriate fabrics for original style patterns.

Social justice

Articulate and demonstrate a clear concept of a just society in which individuals and groups equitably share in societal benefits within a global community.

• Articulate the impact of accuracy patternmaking and related documents on other individuals in the global apparel production community.

Required Reading AMD 225 Patternmaking I Course Pack Patternmaking for Fashion Design-W/DVD, 5th Author Joseph-Armstrong ISBN 9780135018767

OR E-book Patternmaking for Fashion Design Author Joseph-Armstrong ISBN 9780137009374

Recommended Reading Sewing for the Apparel Industry (or a similar sewing textbook) Author Shaeffer ISBN 9780131884434

Page 3: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 3 of 18

Supplies: (Items are divided by location where you would likely find it. Feel free to buy wherever you prefer.)

Included in Course Fees: Pattern hooks (12)

Pinking shears (for use in classroom)

Metal weights (for use in classroom)

1/2” wide elastic (provided for Measurement Assignment ONLY)

Twill tape (to mark HBL on form)

Pattern paper & tag board (for use in classroom)

Thread (for use in classroom)

Striped woven fabric for ½ scale 1st samples in Patternmaking Notebook

2 pairs of shoulder pads 1/4" thick x 6 1/2" x 4"

15 hangers (4 skirt & 11 dress)

Invisible zippers (2 nine-inch, 1 ten-inch, & 1 twenty-two-inch)

36” ruler “yard stick” (some available for use in classroom)

Fabric / Craft Store Satin pins & pin cushion

Fabric shears

Tape measure

Marking tools (OPTIONAL): blunt tracing wheels with chalk paper in at least two colors; tailors chalk; and fine-point washable pen

For Sloper Set Assignment: (These are the MINIMUM fabric and notion amounts you will need for your 1st samples. It is suggested you purchase 25 yards, to use for 2nd fittings and final designs.) • Muslin (8 yards x 45-inches wide)

• 4-way stretch knit (2 yards)

• Lining (1 ½ yard)

For Original Pattern Design Assignments and Final Project Garments (Amounts depends on your design)

• Muslin, fashion fabrics, & notions

Office Supply Store Double Pocket Insertable Plastic Divider, 8-Tab,

9 1/2" x 11 1/4"

Rubber bands, paper clips & binder clips

3-hole punch Paper scissors

Mechanical pencils & eraser

Colored pencils or pens (red, black, green, and purple) & white out

Push pins

Stapler, staples, and staple remover

“Magic” transparent tape & dispenser

1 pkg. 8 ½” X 11” cardstock (at least 120 sheets—any color)

3” binder with clear cover

104 adhesive backed labels, 1” x 2-5/8” with 30 to a sheet (Avery 8160 recommended). As each student only needs four sheets of labels, students are advised to share packs with each other.

Pattern snips

Specialty Supplies at Bookstore Sewing machine supplies: Students working in the lab (other than 221 students) are expected to purchase as part of their class supplies: • a Juki bobbin case & bobbins (min. 2) • a Juki invisible zipper foot

24” x 14” tailor’s square (a.k.a. “L-Square”)

18” X 2” clear plastic grid ruler

10” x 4 ¾” plastic French curve

24” vary form hip curve

Pattern notcher (cuts 1/4” x 1/16” notch)

Pin-head tracing wheel (“needlepoint tracer”)

Awl (1/8” hole)

Other Body suit, leotard, or other form-fitting ensemble suitable for being measured in—please reference your textbook.

Page 4: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 4 of 18

Course Policies:

Attendance, Absences, and Tardiness • Regular class attendance is expected and required.

• Class begins promptly at the designated time.

• Work times in the lab are just as important as lecture, discussion, and demonstrations.

• Students are expected to have all assignments completed on time and participate in classroom critiques and discussion.

• The satisfactory explanation of an absence does not relieve the student from responsibility for the course work assigned and/or due during his/her absences.

• A student who does not attend class during the first week of school or starts late is still held responsible for his/her absences.

• If you will/did miss class, regardless of the reason, you must notify your instructor via email.

• Students are responsible for gathering any information from the missed class period in a timely manner.

Classroom Standards • Students are expected to have the necessary materials and supplies for each meeting.

• Projects must be worked on in class, but some work will also need to be completed outside of class.

• Projects not worked on in class will not be accepted.

• Students are encouraged to watch progress on projects of other class members and to share learning experience with others. Along with your own efforts, students are encouraged to learn by observing the problems encountered by your classmates and their solutions.

• Students are also encouraged to take an active role in your education, take initiative, and ask questions for assistance.

• No smoking or other tobacco products may be used. Food and drinks are not permitted.

• Students are asked to clean their workspaces at the end of each class, including the disposal of paper and material scraps, eraser slubs and broken pencil lead. Rooms should be reset at the end of class for the next group of students. It is the responsibility of the last person leaving the workroom to be sure the irons, lights, and all machines are turned off.

• Professional behavior is encouraged of all students in this course.

Page 5: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 5 of 18

• Disruptive behavior, such as the use of cell phones, reading the newspaper, inappropriate language, or disregard to lab policies/equipment, will not be permitted. If at any time, a student’s behavior is offensive to the instructor or your fellow students, he/she may be asked to leave the classroom.

• Cell phones and laptops are not permitted during class. All personal computers, entertainment, and personal communication devices must be turned off during lectures unless otherwise specified. Students may, with permission, record lectures/demonstrations.

Late Assignments and Missed Exams • Projects are due on the designated date and at the designated time. Late work will not be

accepted. If an assignment is due at the start-of-class and you are late to class, your assignment is also late and will not be accepted. The only consideration will be given to situations with written physician’s notes.

• The due dates for all assignments are included in the syllabus, but may be subject to change. Students will be informed of any changes in class or via e-mail.

• Students are preparing to work in a professional environment where respecting due dates can make a crucial difference in your career. Take this seriously.

• Incomplete grades will only be given if 75% of the course has been completed and the student has had a personal or family crisis.

Course Fee $90. A general fee assessed to all students in the class that covers lab equipment maintenance and repairs, pattern paper, and tag board.

Research Sites Students are encouraged to conduct research and keep up-to-date with future fashion forecasts and trends through fashion industry publications and on-line reporting services including WWD and websites such as www.style.com, and www.firstview.com. Research fashion trends and designers for projects on the fashion forecasting site, WGSN. Historical fashion trends may be researched on the Vogue Archive. There are also numerous individual designer sites. Note that consumer fashion magazines (such as Vogue, Elle, etc.) are not appropriate fashion forecasting sources, as they present garments that are already available on the market. Maintain notes regarding all sources and referenced works.

How to Access the Vogue Archive This database is available through the library webpage. http://search.proquest.com.proxy.lib.iastate.edu/vogue/arts/fromDatabasesLayer?accountid=10906

How to Access WGSN.Com To create or reactivate your account, please first go to 108 or 307 MacKay computer lab and visit the following site: http://www.WGSN.com/edu/. Your username would be your ISU email address and the system will generate a password (which you can change at any time). Every three months (90 days) you will just need to reactivate your account by visiting http://www.WGSN.com/edu/ within the IP address

Page 6: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 6 of 18 (AGAIN, 108 or 307 MacKay computer labs). You would receive instructions and pop-up message when the time comes for that.

Harassment and Discrimination Iowa State University strives to maintain our campus as a place of work and study for faculty, staff, and students that is free of all forms of prohibited discrimination and harassment based upon race, ethnicity, sex (including sexual assault), pregnancy, color, religion, national origin, physical or mental disability, age, marital status, sexual orientation, gender identity, genetic information, or status as a U.S. veteran. Any student who has concerns about such behavior should contact his/her instructor, Student Assistance at 515-294-1020 or email [email protected], or the Office of Equal Opportunity and Compliance at 515-294-7612.

Disability Accommodation Iowa State University complies with the Americans with Disabilities Act and Sect 504 of the Rehabilitation Act. If you have a disability and anticipate needing accommodations in this course, please contact the course instructor to set up a meeting within the first two weeks of the semester or as soon as you become aware of your need. Before meeting with the course instructor, you will need to obtain a SAAR form with recommendations for accommodations from the Disability Resource Office, located in room 1076 on the main floor of the Student Services Building. Their telephone number is 515-294-7220 or email [email protected]. Retroactive requests for accommodations will not be honored.

Special Accommodation Exam All students who need special accommodations for exams as indicated in their SAAR agreement must arrange to take the exams at the exam accommodation center (see below). To make sure that the exam is scheduled at the time of midterm/final, students should make reservations in advance. When students who do not need special accommodation miss an exam and are eligible for a make-up exam (e.g., illness), the faculty, or student with approval from the faculty, should contact AESHM department office to check availability and then schedule the exam date/time. Exam Accommodations Center Student Disability Resources Iowa State University 1200 Hixson-Lied Student Success Center Ames, Iowa 50011-1381

515-294-5197 [email protected]

Religious Accommodation If an academic or work requirement conflicts with your religious practices and/or observances, you may request reasonable accommodations. Your request must be in writing, and your instructor or supervisor will review the request. You or your instructor may also seek assistance from the Dean of Students Office or the Office of Equal Opportunity and Compliance.

Dead Week This class follows the Iowa State University Dead Week policy as noted in section 10.6.4 of the Faculty Handbook http://www.provost.iastate.edu/resources/faculty-handbook.

Page 7: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 7 of 18

Academic Dishonesty This class will follow Iowa State University’s policy on academic dishonesty. Anyone suspected of academic dishonesty will be reported to the Dean of Students Office. http://www.dso.iastate.edu/ja/academic/misconduct.html

Academic dishonesty occurs when a student uses or attempts to use unauthorized information in the taking of an exam; or submits as his or her own work themes, reports, drawings, laboratory notes, or other products prepared by another person; or knowingly assists another student in such acts or plagiarism. Such behavior is abhorrent to the university, and students found responsible for academic dishonesty face expulsion, suspension, conduct probation, or reprimand. Instances of academic dishonesty ultimately affect all students and the entire university community by degrading the value of diplomas when some are obtained dishonestly, and by lowering the grades of students working honestly.

Examples of specific acts of academic dishonesty include but are not limited to:

Obtaining unauthorized information. Information is obtained dishonestly, for example, by copying graded homework assignments from another student, by working with another student on a take-home test or homework when not specifically permitted to do so by the instructor, or by looking at your notes or other written work during an examination when not specifically permitted to do so.

Tendering of information. Students may not give or sell their work to another person who plans to submit it as his or her own. This includes giving their work to another student to be copied, giving someone answers to exam questions during the exam, taking an exam and discussing its contents with students who will be taking the same exam, or giving or selling a term paper to another student.

Misrepresentation. Students misrepresent their work by handing in the work of someone else. The following are examples: purchasing a paper from a term paper service; reproducing another person's paper (even with modifications) and submitting it as their own; having another student do their computer program or having someone else take their exam.

Bribery. Offering money or any item or service to a faculty member or any other person to gain academic advantage for yourself or another is dishonest.

Plagiarism. Unacknowledged use of the information, ideas, or phrasing of other writers is an offense comparable with theft and fraud, and it is so recognized by the copyright and patent laws. Literary offenses of this kind are known as plagiarism.

Plagiarism occurs when a person does not credit the sources from which they borrow ideas, whether these ideas are reproduced exactly or summarized. The method of documentation will differ depending on whether the sources are written, oral, or visual. Ethically, communicators are responsible for providing accurate, detailed information about their sources. Practically, audiences need this information to comprehend and evaluate a message's content. The Student Guide: English 150 and 250,

Page 8: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 8 of 18 available for purchase at the University Book Store, describes the process of documenting source materials as do many other reference guides.

Academic dishonesty is considered to be a violation of the behavior expected of a student in an academic setting as well as a student conduct violation. A student found responsible for academic dishonesty or academic misconduct is, therefore, subject to appropriate academic penalty; to be determined by the instructor of the course, as well as sanctions under the university Student Disciplinary Regulations.

Classroom or Grade Problems If a student has a course related problem, she or he should discuss it with the course instructor first. If the student is not satisfied, she or he should contact his/her advisor to address the situation. The advisor will suggest possible course of actions. For more information refer to http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#appealofacademicgrievances. If you are experiencing or have experienced, a problem with any of the above issues, email [email protected].

Grading Grades will be posted on Blackboard. Log-in id: your ISU e-mail without “@iastate.edu”; password: same as your ISU e-mail password. Instructors will make every effort to keep accurate records. However, it is your responsibility to monitor grade reports and keep all materials related to the course. Grade related claims should be in writing (e-mail acceptable) and must be done within one week after a project is returned.

Violence Free University At ISU, violence, threats or implied threats of violence, and intimidation (verbal or physical acts intended to frighten or coerce) impede the goal of providing a safe environment and will not be tolerated. For more information, refer to http://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/violence .

Emergency Response In an emergency situation, follow emergency response guide at http://www.ehs.iastate.edu/sites/default/files/uploads/publications/posters/EmergencyPoster.pdf . For more information, refer to http://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/emergencynotification .

Page 9: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 9 of 18 Your total grade is based on the following:

Items may be added or subtracted at the instructor’s discretion based on the needs and workflow of the class. Item Points Pattern Marking and Labeling Assignment 25 Measurements Assignment 50 Sloper Set 1. Skirt 75 2. Trouser 75 3. Bodice 75 4. Sleeve 75 5. Torso 75 6. Dartless Knit with Sleeve 75 7. Jacket with Sleeve 75 8. Contour Guidelines –Bodices 25 Patternmaking Notebook 1. Prepared Blank Notebook 50 2. Bodice Dart Manipulation 56 3. Skirt Dart Manipulation 43 4. Style Lines 60 5. Added Fullness 60 6. Contour Bodices 36 7. Facings, Interfacing, and Linings 46 8. Collars/Cuffs/Extensions/Plackets/But

tons/Buttonholes 75

Pattern Design Assignments (100 points = Technical Flats & Pattern Plan @ 28 + Pattern @ 42 + Muslin 1st sample & Presentation @ 30)

1. Sleeveless Dress 100 2. Blouse 100 3. Trouser or other bifurcate 100 4. Knit shirt, tunic or dress 100 5. Jacket (150 points = Technical Flats &

Pattern Plan @ 42 + Pattern @ 63 + Muslin 1st sample & Presentation @ 45)

150

Final Project 1. Target Market 50 2. Trend Forecasting 50 3. Garment Ensembles 200

Quizzes 1. Target Market 12 2. Trend Forecasting 15 3. Chapter 1 17 4. Chapter 2 15 5. Chapter 3 15 6. Pants – Chapter 26 10 7. Sleeves – Chapter 3 & Chapter 14 10 8. Torso – Chapter 18 10 9. Knits - Chapter 27 & 28 10 10. Jacket - Chapter 22 10 11. Principle #1 Dart Manipulation 15 12. Principle #2 Added Fullness 8 13. Principle #3 Contouring 15 14. Facings, Interfacing & Linings 15 15. Collars, Cuffs, Extensions, etc. 17 Total Possible: 2095

Grade Scale A = 94 – 100% A - = 90 - 94 B+ = 88 - 89 B = 83 - 87 B - = 80 - 82 C+ = 78 - 79 C =73 - 77 C - = 70 - 72 D+ = 68 - 69 D = 63 - 67 D - = 60 - 62 F = 0 - 59

Extra Credit Opportunities: 1. Peer Evaluations of patterns in Pattern

Design Assignments. 10 points possible each (4 opportunities).

2. Make an additional garment ensemble for your Final Project. 50 points possible.

Page 10: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 10 of 18

Tentative Course Schedule Subject to change based on instructor discretion. Changes will be announced in class.

Week Topics / Reading Assignments Quizzes

1 August 22nd

Introduction to the Course

Patternmaking Essentials—Chapter 1

Pattern Marking and Labeling Assignment—due Week 1, Wednesday, start of class

Target Market Quiz – Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 1

Trend Forecasting Quiz – Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 1

Patternmaking Essentials: Chapter 1 Quiz – Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 1

Form Measurements: Chapter 2 Quiz – Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 1

24th Introduce Pattern Design Assignments & Final Project

• Target Market Identification

• Trend Forecasting

Introduce Patternmaking Notebook

Introduce Measurements Assignment

• Form Measurements—Chapter 2

Target Market Assignment—Due Week 1, Friday, start of class (submit via BlackBoard)

Trend Forecasting Assignment—Due Week 1, Friday, start of class (submit via BlackBoard)

26th

Drop Deadline

Body scanning and begin Measurements Assignment

Prepared Blank Patternmaking Notebook—Due Week 2, Wednesday, start of class

Measurements Assignment—due Week 2, Friday, start of class

Drafting the Basic Pattern Set—Chapter 3 Quiz – Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 2

2 29th Continue Measurements

Page 11: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 11 of 18

Assignment

31st Begin Sloper Set Assignment

Drafting the Basic Pattern Set—Chapter 3

Skirt Sloper (2 Dart Skirt Front, and 2 Dart Skirt Back)

• pattern and muslin due Week 2, Friday, start of class

• final skirt sloper due Week 3, Wednesday, start of class

September 2nd

Continue skirt sloper assignment—fitting & tagboard

Pants—Chapter 26 Quiz – Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 3

3 5th Holiday University Holiday

7th Pants—Chapter 26 Trouser Sloper (Trouser Front & Trouser Back)

• pattern and muslin due Week 3, Friday, start of class

• final trouser sloper due Week 4, Monday, start of class

9th Continue trouser sloper assignment –fitting & tagboard

4 12th Drafting the Basic Pattern Set, cont. (Bodice)—Chapter 3

Bodice Sloper (1 Dart Bodice Front and Bodice Back)

• pattern and muslin due Week 4, Wednesday, start of class

• final bodice sloper due Week 4 Friday, start of class

14th Continue bodice sloper assignment—fitting & tagboard

Walk bodice sloper and skirt

Sleeves: Chs. 3 & 14 Quiz – Due by Midnight on Thursday, Week 4

Page 12: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 12 of 18

sloper at waist seam. Pg. 53

16th Sleeves—pgs. 55-64 & 302-304 Sleeves Sloper • pattern and

muslin due Week 5 Monday, start of class

• final sleeve sloper due Week 5, Wednesday, start of class

5 19th Continue sleeve sloper assignment—fitting & tagboard

Torso Sloper: Ch. 18 Quiz – Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 5

21st Torso Sloper—Ch. 18

Torso Sloper (Torso Front, Torso Back)

• pattern and muslin due Week 5, Friday, start of class

• final torso sloper due Week 6th, Monday, start of class

23rd Continue torso sloper assignment—fitting & tagboard

Knits: Chs. 27 & 28 Quiz – Due by Midnight on Sunday, Week 6

6 26th Knit Patternmaking & Sewing

Demonstration: sewing machines—chainstitch & coverstitch (10:30am)

Knit Sloper (Knit Back, Knit Front, & Knit Sleeve)

• pattern and muslin due Week 6, Wednesday, start of class

• final torso sloper due Week 6, Friday, start of class

28th Continue knit sloper assignment—fitting & tagboard

Jacket: Ch. 22 Quiz -- Due by Midnight on Thursday, Week

Page 13: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 13 of 18

6

30th Jacket Sloper (pg. 461-462)

Jacket Sleeve (pg. 465-466)

Jacket Sloper (Jacket Back, Jacket Front- plain neck, & Jacket Sleeve)

• pattern and muslin Week 7, Monday, start of class

• final jacket sloper due Week 7, Wednesday, start of class

7 October 3rd

Continue jacket sloper assignment—fitting & tagboard

Principle #1 Dart Manipulation and Style Lines Quiz-- Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 7

5th Flat Pattern Design—Major Principles

Principle #1 Dart Manipulation: Bodices (Ch. 4):

• Single Dart & Double Dart

• Slash/Spread & Pivot Transfer Techniques

• Back Shoulder Dart Manipulation

Bodice Dart Manipulation Assignment—Due Week 7, Friday, start of class

7th Principle #1 Dart Manipulation: Skirts (pgs. 230 – 244)

• Moving, combining, and closing skirt darts

• Zippers & straight waistbands

Skirt Dart Manipulation Assignment—Due Week 8, Monday, start of class

8 10th Principle #1 Dart Manipulation: Style Lines, Gores, Yokes, & Raised/Lowered Waistbands—Bodices and Skirts (Ch. 6, pgs. 249 – 261, pgs. 267 – 270, & 606-609)

Style Lines Assignment—Due Week 8, Wednesday, start of class

Principle #2 Added Fullness Quiz – Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 8

12th Principle #2 Added Fullness: Bodices, Skirts & Sleeves (Ch. 7, pgs. 245-248, 258-285, 288-

Added Fullness Assignment—Due Week

Principle #3 Contouring Quiz -- Due by Midnight on

Page 14: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 14 of 18

299, & 310-331) • Three Types—equal,

one-sided, and unequal • Locations—style line,

dart, all-over volume (blouson / bubble/dirndl)

8, Friday, start of class Thursday, Week 8

14th Principle #3 Contouring: (Ch. 9) • Preparing and using the

Contour Guide Patterns (pgs. 158-168)

Midterm grade reports due

Contour Guidelines—Bodice Slopers—Due Week 9, Monday, start of class

9 17th Principle #3 Contouring: (Ch. 9) • Empire, Wrap, Off-

Shoulder, and Halter Designs (pgs. 169-177)

• Contour Pant with Creaseline Flare (pg. 611)

Contour Bodices Assignment—Due Week 9, Wednesday, start of class

Facings, Interfacing, & Lining Quiz -- Due by Midnight on Tuesday, Week 9

19th Facings, Interfacing, & Linings

Facings • Built-Up Necklines pg.

202-207 • Types pg. 366-368

Interfacing & Pattern Color-Coding—pg. 460

Linings

Lecture: Stabilizing stretchy edges (knits, chiffon, etc.) with or without a facing.

Facings, Interfacing & Linings Assignment—Due Week 9, Friday, start of class

Collars, Cuffs, Extensions, Plackets, Buttons & Buttonholes -- Due by Midnight on Thursday, Week 9

21th Collars, Cuffs, Extensions, Plackets, Buttons & Buttonholes

Collars—Chapter 10

Cuffs—pgs. 304 - 307

Buttons and buttonholes & Extensions—pgs. 362-365

Shirts—Ch. 21 • Sleeve Hems, Openings,

& Plackets—pg. 447-449

• Facings for shirts, pg.

Collars, Cuffs, Extensions, Plackets, Buttons & Buttonholes Assignment—Due Week 10, Monday, start of class

Page 15: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 15 of 18

450-452

10 24th Introduce Sleeveless Dress Assignment

Pattern Design Assignment: Sleeveless Dress

• Technical Flats with Pattern Plan due Week 10, Wednesday, start of class

• Pattern due Week 10, Friday , start of class

• 1st sample & presentation preparation sheet due Week 11, Monday, start of class

26th Lecture:

• Review of hem types: straight, curved, visible, invisible. Serging is NOT a hem!

• Review of zippers: invisible

• How to do exposed zippers.

Sleeveless Dress: patternmaking

28th Demonstration: How to sew an all-in-one-facing

Sleeveless Dress: cut and start sewing 1st sample

11 31st Presentation & critique of Sleeveless Dress

Introduce Blouse Assignment

Pattern Design Assignment: Blouse

• Technical Flats with Pattern Plan due Week 11, Wednesday, start of class

• Pattern due Week 11, Friday, start of class

Page 16: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 16 of 18

• 1st sample & presentation preparation sheet due Week 12, Monday, start of class

November 2nd

Blouse Assignment: patternmaking

4th Blouse Assignment: cut and start sewing 1st sample

12 7th Blouse Assignment: Presentation & critique

Introduce Trouser Assignment

Lecture / Demonstration on Closures: Fly Zippers

Pattern Design Assignment: Trouser or other bifurcate

• Technical Flats with Pattern Plan due Week 12, Wednesday, start of class

• Pattern due Week 12, Friday, start of class

• 1st sample & presentation preparation sheet due Week 13, Monday, start of class

9th Trouser Assignment: patternmaking

11th Trouser Assignment: cutting & sewing 1st sample

13 14th Trouser Assignment: Presentation & critique

Introduce Knit Assignment

Pattern Design Assignment: Knit shirt, tunic, or dress

• Technical Flats with Pattern Plan due Week 13, Wednesday, start of class

• Pattern due Week 13, Wednesday, end of class

• 1st sample &

Page 17: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 17 of 18

presentation preparation sheet due Week 13, Friday, start of class

16th Knit Assignment: patternmaking, cutting & sewing 1st sample

Demonstration: Serger Threading (10am)

18th Knit Assignment: Presentation & critique

Introduce Jacket Assignment

Demonstration: How to draft jacket linings, facings, and interfacing pieces from your jacket pattern.

Pattern Design Assignment: Jacket

• Technical Flats with Pattern Plan due Week 14, Monday, start of class

• Pattern due Week 14, Wednesday, start of class

• outer shell and lining due Week 14, Friday, start of class

• 1st sample & presentation preparation sheet due Week 15, Monday, start of class

21st – 25th Holiday Week – No Class

14 28th Jacket Assignment: patternmaking

30th Jacket Assignment: cut and start sewing 1st sample

December 2nd

Demonstration: How to sew jacket lining

Jacket Assignment: Attach outer shell to lining

15 5th Jacket Assignment: Final Project Garments—Due Week 15, Friday, end

Page 18: A M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat Pattern M D 225 Patternmaking I: Drafting and Flat ... • Create original style patterns by applying flat patternmaking principles to

Page 18 of 18

Presentation & critique

Final Project Garments: cutting and sewing

of class

7th Final Project Garments: cutting and sewing

9th Final Project Garments: cutting and sewing

Finals Tuesday 13th

9:45-11:45 a.m.: Presentation of Final Projects during Final Exam Time