A Key Report Publication issue 46 January 2013

Blaxland Wine Group www.blaxwine.com.au

With 700 ha in three premium locations (Barossa, Adelaide Hills and Limestone

Coast) and 14 different varietals the Blaxland Wine Group can fulfill your grape

and/or premium bulk wine intake. Email Craig Thomas: craigt@blaxvin.com.au

NSW road trip with a comfort stop at verdelho There are many wine-producing regions in NSW but don’t let the official Geographical Indications (GI) sucker you into thinking that is what holds the key to quality. Most of the NSW GIs are so huge any pretence to the relevance of terroir is misleading. However, there are areas within the regions with true character that are worth getting to know, and within those areas are fantastic sites and many great individual vineyards. What has saved many regions, such as the Hunter, from degradation is the slowing down of Australian wine exports. Had they continued at the frantic pace they were at in 2007 vineyards would have been planted in many unsuitable places but still legally within the Hunter GI and the good name of the Hunter would have been deeply damaged.

The great wines of the Hunter Valley come from vineyards that have age and where certain grape varieties have found their own identity over many decades. None more so than Semillon, in what I prefer to call the lower Hunter Valley, a minuscule section of the full Hunter GI.

Semillon was in James Busby’s collection of 1832 after he acquired cuttings from the botanic gardens at Luxembourg in 1831. However, I often wonder if the variety was on the first fleet, as it called in at the Cape of Good Hope in October 1787, where plants, including grapevines, were taken on board. According to the Great Book of South African Wine, by John Kench, Phyllis Hands and David Hughes (Struk, 1983): “In 1822 93 per cent of South African vineyards were planted to Wyndruif”, which was semillon. It’s well known in Australia that at one time semillon was better known as Hunter River riesling, but it was also called Barnawartha pinot in north-east Victoria. According to Wine Grapes, by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz, semillon’s first citation in France was in 1736 as semilion ou St Émilion and it is closely related to sauvignon blanc.

Tony

On the hunt

Margan Hunter Valley Semillon 2012: I admit to being surprised, as this wine is tasting as if it’s a year or two older. It is drinking wonderfully now; how it will mature is only of academic interest but at this moment in time (November 2012) it is a beautifully crafted wine, sensuous yet slightly haughty. 93 points and at a bargain at just

$18. Thomas ‘Braemore’ Hunter Valley Semillon 2012: Searing, slices the palate via its acid. Potentially great, but there is no joy in drinking this wine for a year or three. On its taste today, 87 points, but it has a lot to offer if you’re buying to put it away for several years. Therefore $28 is not unreasonable. Margan Hunter Valley Semillon 2011: This is one I kept back to see how it would perform a year older. Very well is the answer. It still tastes rounder and richer than many Hunter semillons of the same age. What this proves is Andrew Margan remains true to his style and the accompanying tasting notes he supplied are spot on. Tyrrell’s ‘Stevens Vineyard’ Hunter Valley Semillon 2008: At this stage of its life, this wine is very light on the nose, rather sharp across the palate, and a little short on the finish. Do not be fooled; it’s in sleep mode. Hold the wine in the mouth, let the smell drift so the olfactory senses pick up what can’t readily be detected, and go with the flow. There is a lot there and in time it will blossom. 93

points now but it will climb, and for putting away $34 is a bargain. Brokenwood ‘Stanleigh Park Vineyard’ Hunter Valley Semillon 2007: This is still so very youthful, at five years old and with hardly any age showing. It’s an impressive wine to taste but it’s not an easy wine to drink as its structure is holding it back. I rate it 93 points now but if well kept I reckon in a few years it will ring the bell at 98, perhaps 99. If putting away, $45 is good value. If you’re trying to impress the boss tonight, not so. Tyrrell’s ‘Belford Vineyard’ Hunter Valley Semillon 2007: More forward than the HVD (see below), though a year younger, it is drinking beautifully now but still contains plenty of life. I’m pleased to say I had tasted it, then took it to friends for Christmas cold cuts. My companions were not wine drinkers and I had it all to myself. Wonderful, 95 points, and worth $34. Meerea Park ‘Terracotta’ Hunter Valley Semillon 2006: This wine has won so many medals and trophies I should think the winery was forced into buying a new cabinet to keep them in. With the greatest respect, I shall give it a simple tasting comment: it’s one of the very best wines I tasted in 2012. 96 points (James Halliday gave it 95) and at $27 exceptional value. Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Vat 1 Semillon 2006: A nose of simple beauty that intensifies as the glass is held in place. It reacts the same on the palate, starting gentle and gathering pace as it travels across. Anyone who understands anything about wine, or says they do, will know they are in the presence of a very great wine indeed. It may surprise some to learn it’s not at its peak yet; more beauty and pleasure awaits. 96 points now who knows how many more points as it ages (but no more than four). It has the awards and recognition within Australia to be ranked one of Australia’s greatest wines and as such $69 is not an expensive price. Tyrrell’s ‘HVD’ Hunter Valley Semillon 2006: More approachable than the Vat 1. Fuller in the mouth, more developed, in a way more drinkable at the moment, this is closer than the Vat 1 to its peak, so enjoy it. It’s a wonderful drink. 95 points and fantastic value at $34. Hunter Valley Semillon is Australia’s greatest contribution to the world of table wine but few recognise it as such. One can look for the reason in several ways. The obvious start is that many who say they know and love wine are just show ponies, and, in fact, when it comes to wine don’t really know arse from elbow. I recently attended a consumer tasting at which intelligent and articulate people were down on Australian chardonnay yet have wine cellars and think themself knowledgeable on the subject. If the chardonnay jibe wasn’t enough one proudly said, “My cellar is a McLaren Vale free zone”. The positive aspect of Hunter Valley semillon being under-appreciated is that those that do have an understanding for the wine and an educated palate are able to enjoy it at prices that, although increasing, are still affordable.

Queen, courtesan, or whore?

Being polite, “chameleon” is a good word for describing chardonnay; otherwise “whore” will do. Chardonnay turns many tricks in all sorts of places, and like many whores is often grossly mistreated and appalling ostracised by society that considers itself sophisticated and civilised. The only true judgement is on the content of the glass before you. Think on that and do not go to the tasting bench with preconceived ideas. I’m not a keen sauvignon blanc drinker but I like to think I judge fairly. What I choose to drink for

pleasure is altogether a different matter. I enjoy many Hunter Valley chardonnays and many are on the plump side, though cool climate anorexic appears to be the order of the day. Tempus Two ‘Copper Series’ Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2011: The notes use the word “luscious”. I didn’t taste that. This was very tight when I tasted it, not showing as much as I expected. It’s a wine on which I reserve full judgement, one I would like to revisit in six months and then again maybe in a year. It is well made and there’s no denying the quality is there, so 90 points, but I’ll withhold further comment except that it is possibly worth its $22 down the track. Margan Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2011: Not overly complex but enough going on to make it a worthwhile drink. I thoroughly enjoyed it. 92 points and worth its $18. Margan ‘White Label’ Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2011: This is fantastic Hunter chardonnay. 94 points and worth its $30. Scarborough Yellow Label Chardonnay 2010: Good quality chardonnay, 93 points and a fair price at $25. Year after year this wine maintains a high standard and is always a reasonable price. Scarborough ‘Blue Ribbon’ Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2011: I thought this tighter than previous vintages. I do hope it’s not a policy of thinning down the style to attract sauvignon drinkers. Having said that, it didn’t disappoint. 91 points and worth its $22. Hunter Valley rosé and red wines are like wines from any region. They cover the spectrum. However, shiraz can often be exceptional. Margan ‘Saignee’ Hunter Valley Shiraz Rosé 2011: Beautiful expression of the rosé style. Fine to drink by itself but works far better at the table. 94 points and great value at $17. Margan Hunter Valley Shiraz 2010: Again, well-made, sound wine. Carries that Hunter savoury character; not a lot, but enough to make it a touch more interesting. 91 points and value at $20. Brokenwood ‘Mistress Block’ Hunter Valley Shiraz 2010: Quality Hunter shiraz all the way and drinking incredibly well now. Simply stunning wine. 96 points and worth its $69.

Margan Hunter Valley Merlot 2010: Soundly made, fruity wine. 90 points and OK value at $20. Margan Hunter Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009: This is about as far as I want to go in ripe cabernet. Having said that, I still enjoyed it and believe many will find great pleasure in drinking it. 92 points and good value at $20. Margan ‘White Label’ Hunter Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009: It has a bite, far from unpleasant, but still a bite, that might confuse some drinkers. I really enjoyed its savoury, grown-up taste. 94 points and value at $30. A mixed bag and mixed reviews, any comments from readers will be welcome.

Much ado about Mudgee

Mudgee: will it ever get the recognition it deserves? I say that because it has deserved better recognition for decades. The history of chardonnay in Australia is entwined with the region but few recognise the fact. Henry Lawson was a native, I’m not sure how well known he is nowadays by any under 40 let alone he hailed from Mudgee. Today the Huntington Estate music festival is among Australia’s finest. The Mudgee wines that have impressed me greatly in the past couple of years are

those made by Des Quilty. Quilty ‘Black Thimble’ Mudgee Shiraz 2011: The fundamentals of reviewing wine are based on a few basic principles. One is knowledge, another is experience (though many younger then I in years would argue that) and another is impartiality. The last gets tested when a batch of wines arrives and because of past experiences anticipation is high. I make no secret of the fact that I love the Quilty wines. I enjoy drinking them and I like the philosophy behind the making and release of them. This wine is rich and travels deep as it crosses the palate. What is more impressive is the long return journey after its been swallowed. Excellent wine, 96 points and very good value at $28. Quilty ‘Patchwork’ Mudgee Cabernet-Petit Verdot 2011: Des Quilty says: “A wine we do in years that both varieties will benefit from blending.” Unlike the shiraz, it’s a wine of wide expression rather than depth. It flows around the mouth in swirls dropping flavour here and there like a Jackson Pollock painting. It’s only when one stands back and reflects that ideas form. Lovely stuff, 94 points and great value at $22. Quilty ‘Running Stitch’ Mudgee Cabernet Sauvignon 2011: It is its own wine. Tremendous individual character, which I enjoy a great deal. Some will say this is terroir and I won’t argue, the point being, it is good. In fact, very good. It’s a wine that leans towards the bitter edge of the spectrum. The flavours are from the middle of the palate to the back and then on the return. 94 points now but I think more to come and value at $28. Quilty ‘Running Stitch’ Mudgee Cabernet Sauvignon 2010: The smell is sheer olfactory pleasure. It sits handsome and proud at the beginning of the palate then journeys across in a combination of purpose and elegance. A very smart wine indeed. 96 points and worth every cent of its $28. Quilty ‘Silken Thread’ Mudgee Petit Verdot 2010: Des Quilty held this wine back, as in his judgement it wasn’t ready for release a year ago. Before looking at the wine it’s worth noting that this an honourable stance to take. Quilty has a very small production and costs are high. He doesn’t ask at lot for his wines – $28 a bottle in this case – therefore needs to hold down a day job to support wine production. Quilty believes in straight petit verdot. I’m not convinced, but if any winemaker does it well, he does. This has a fantastic nose but is sharper on the palate. It’s a wine for food. If only tasted, its raw edges show. Take it to the table and those raw edges take on meat (any) and juices and become a different character. 93 points and worth its money. This review is from Max Crus (AKA Simon Hughes) published on 5 January 2013, “Quilty (Apple Tree Flat Mudgee) Silken Thread Petit Verdot 2011, $22. Wow, where has this been hiding? Petit verdot sounds so French and alluring and this one tastes it too. Have it with Midnight in Paris. 9.2/10.

Quilty ‘Silken Thread’ Mudgee Petit Verdot 2011: This is also being held back for later release so there’s no price quoted yet. Let’s not bugger about; even if this is closer to $40 than $30. It will still be a bargain. Fantastic wine, 94 now with a couple more to come. David Lowe is a strong advocate for Mudgee and has done a great deal of work in pushing the reputation of the region and its wines. Lowe ‘Tinja’ Preservative Free, Mudgee Organic Red 2012: This is a blend of shiraz and merlot and the winemaker David Lowe says it’s a difficult wine to make. I found it a difficult wine to taste. On first taste, the amount of gas in the wine was overpowering. However, it had enough to warrant a closer look. All I could think of was to give the bottle a damn good shake, let the gas out and come back to it the next day. Then I enjoyed it and surprisingly it reminded me of beaujolais. I think it was the structure rather than flavour. Anyhow, for those that require preservative-free wine it must be a godsend, even if a shaking is required. 89 points and worth its $20 in its genre. Lowe ‘Tinja’ Preservative Free, Mudgee White 2012: The fizzy white was more approachable than the fizzy red. A blend of verdelho and chardonnay, it was clean, fresh and the fizz gave it zip. 90 points and worth its $20 in its genre. Burnbrae Mudgee Shiraz 2008: Rich fruitcake nose and powerful all across the palate. I rather like it but I’m not so sure it’s a style all will go for. 92 points and within price parameters at $28. Optimiste ‘Limited Release’ Mudgee Shiraz 2008: Powerful nose with a touch of VA (volatile acidity) giving a lift. The question: is it too much? Not if the wine is given some time to breathe. Surprisingly for today’s alcohol levels this is only 13.5 per cent, but it’s not a together wine; it’s all over the shop like a one-legged drunk who has lost his crutch. 84 points and there’s plenty around at $20 to not make this a value wine. Burnbrae Mudgee Pinot Gris 2011: I had a blank place with a couple of “??” on my tasting note. It was something I just couldn’t pick up on. The back label says there’s “minerality” in the wine and that was it. Good fruit, very well made, interesting flavours within its style, and a mineral character all blend together to make a complete wine. 91 points and worth its $18.

Orange wine or wine from Orange?

Some of the highest altitude vineyards in Australia are situated in the Orange GI, which starts at 600 metres and continues skywards. What this results in is slower ripening of the grape, and plenty of research supports the theory that slow ripening produces finer wines. No arguments from me but I maintain vine age is very important in this region. The oldest vineyards are more than 30 years old and the number of good wines coming to market is increasing. Stockman’s Ridge ‘Rider’ Orange Region Sauvignon Blanc 2012: More depth than most and in my view the better for it. It’s good, if not great, wine. Rates 90 points but faces stiff competition at $23.

Swinging Bridge Orange Region Sauvignon Blanc 2012: Right smell, right taste, right length and finish. All in all it’s an all right wine. 91 points and $20 is a fair price, but as so much sauvignon blanc is cheaper it might struggle in the marketplace. Swinging Bridge Orange Region Pinot Gris 2012: Sound wine, correct on the nose, light on flavour, which a little more time in the bottle should enhance, and that is it. 86 points and at $20 is among stiff competition. Angullong Orange Region Pinot Grigio 2012: Some PG can be fat and dull, some very thin and dull, and on occasion one is in the middle and just right. I think this wine will fill out a little more with bottle age but won’t become obese. I tasted and drank this on a Sunday afternoon on a deck overlooking a valley. The perfect wine for a great setting. As a wine it’s 94 points and great value at $17. In the setting in which I drank it I would have to rate in 99.9: damn close to perfection. Angullong ‘Fossil Hill’ Orange Region Pinot Gris 2011: Beautifully balanced wine. The flavour is full but not fat and changes as it rolls across the palate. It’s supported by acid that lifts but doesn’t intrude. A great PG, 94 points and very good value at $22. Angullong ‘The Pretender’ Orange Region Savagnin 2011: This producer releases excellent wines and this is no exception. A wonderful array of flavours yet held within a tight structure. Great wine and I’m already looking forward to future releases as the vines age. 92 points and worth its $25. Angullong ‘Bull’s Roar’ Orange Region Tempranillo 2010: Light on the nose but powerful on entry. Tannin comes into play early, masking the fruit a little. Plenty of bite with a hint of sour cherry on the finish. Works better with food. 91 points and a high price at $25 but within bounds. Stockman’s Ridge ‘Outlaw’ Orange Region Shiraz 2009: Earthy as in the Hunter Valley style. On tasting it impressed. Put to one side for drinking later it tasted better, and with food it shone. A stunning wine, a mixture of purity and complexity. 95 points and worth the $35 asked. Stockman’s Ridge ‘Outlaw’ Orange Region Cabernet Sauvignon 2009: This is very tight. In fact, a touch green, maybe too cool climate. It didn’t quite work for me. 89 points and I think pricey at $35.

Without going into each producer and vineyard age, one can see there is a wide variation in the points. In this small selection pinot gris did well, as did the one shiraz. Orange is a region that likes to think itself established. I think it still has a way to go.

Others not lesser

Moving on to other regions, Cowra was the hot region in the 1980s, then the big players pulled out and it has had to build itself again, which has been a slow job. There have been some reasonable wines but as yet I haven’t come across any great ones. This is open for discussion if any reader wants to chip in. Pig in the House Cowra Shiraz 2011: Organic wine that maintains a high standard. It’s good, the price is right ($22) and something is being done to help the poor battered planet we live on and abuse badly. 91 points. Pig in the House Cowra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010: The same price as the shiraz ($22) and much the same comment, but for me it had a little something extra so gets an extra point: 92. There is no Bathurst GI. The city sits to the east of the Orange region. Stockman’s Ridge ‘Rider’ Bathurst Pinot Gris 2012: They know how to get a lot out of this variety. Excellent wine, both to sip and take to the table. 92 points and worth $23. Stockman’s Ridge Bathurst Pinot Gris 2011: Good pinot gris often has a dull old gold colour, as this does. The nose is classic pear and the taste sublime. It’s rich, not cloying, has bite but not aggressive, and a long sensual finish. One of the best PGs I have tried in a long while. 95 points and at $23 incredible value.

Stockman’s Ridge ‘Rider’ Bathurst-Orange Savagnin-Chardonnay 2012: Interesting, very interesting, but it’s too young to give full judgement. Well made, with the construction right and logical, but the flavours of the two grapes are not marrying in a way I expected. Having said that, as far as I can remember this is the only blend of these two grapes I have tasted. But here it is and on the bench. It’s easily 90 points but I feel there are more there. If any lesson is to be learnt from this, it’s for the winemaker to hold the 2013 back longer before sending it for review. For interest’s sake it’s worth its $23. Like Orange, the Hill Tops are developing slowly and showing flashes of brilliance. The Barwang brand, owned by McWilliam’s, produces some fantastic wines that are very well priced. Barwang Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon 2009: The nose is more herbal then I expect from cab, yet not unpleasant. Very tight in structure but the flavours are there and they are very cabernet. Age makes it callow but I’m sure it will grow. At the moment it needs a good amount of air and to be drunk with tucker. 91 points, more to come, worth its $20 now for those who take an interest in wine, and will repay putting away. Barwang Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon 2010: This is a different style. Originating from such a cool region it needs older vines to give it substance. The vines are now of an age that substance is there. Not big and fat but a wine with sinew, tightly constructed and bound together. It is rather wonderful. 93 points and at $20 is being given away. As I rarely get a mass of Canberra wines it’s easier to group the odd one I do receive with NSW.

Shaw Vineyard Canberra Cabernet Sauvignon 2009: Cool climate and cool funky. Minty to start, it is a wine that needs a couple more years in the bottle to mellow but all the indications are there it’s a quality wine. 91 now and I’m not sure how far it will climb. My instincts say to about 93. Value at $26. One from the big daddy region, Riverina, to end with. Berton Vineyard Riverina Botrytis Semillon 2009: An attractive nose of very ripe fruit sits well at the front of the palate then travels across, peeling off flavours along the way. Not at all heavy or cloying and a very pretty aftertaste. 94 points and well worth its $20 a half-bottle.

Verdelho frustration

During 2012 a pack of three verdelhos arrived. The aim was to show the qualities of the variety. Each wine represented a region, so as well as the variety, regional differences were on display. The first question: can verdelho ever achieve higher status than “tries hard” or “middle of the road”? I’m not convinced it ever will. I did have hopes back in the 1980s, but I haven’t been overly impressed since, though one or two have hit the right spot over the years. The three wines below were in the pack: two from NSW and one from South Australia. Bleasdale ‘Pott’s Catch’ Langhorne Creek Verdelho 2011: Fabulous nose that draws the drinker in. Quite full in the mouth but well within bounds. Easy wine, good flavours but little excitement. 90 points and OK value at $19. Tamburlaine ‘Reserve’ Hunter Valley Verdelho 2011: Plenty of fruit flavours but they come and go quicker than my kids spend my money. 88 points and pricey at $20. Windowrie ‘The Mill’ Central Ranges Verdelho 2011: Good acid fruit, balance, has length and just enough depth to make it

interesting. 91 points and value at $17. The following wines arrived separately and were tasted at different times to the above. Margan Hunter Valley Verdelho 2012: This wine has a defined edge that I will call sharp (that’s a compliment). It spreads its sharpness around the mouth before swelling into a finish that is long, clear and defined. I thoroughly enjoyed it, both at tasting and afterwards as a drink. 92 points and good value at $18. Witches Falls ‘Co-Inoculated’ Granite Belt Verdelho 2012: The co-inoculated refers to the use of two different yeast strains in the fermentation process. It does have a richer texture and feels fuller in the mouth. It’s not exceptional but I found it an enjoyable glass of wine. 92 points but just over the price limit at $22. Three Ponds Hunter Valley Verdelho 2011: Damn verdelho, will I ever get a grip on it? Many are bland and few ring the bell. This rings my bell: lovely, sour flavour but with a very slight viscous character that adds a layer of complexity, it stretches the palate and for me concludes with pleasure. 93 points and extremely good value at $20.

Verdelho has a place in Australian viticulture but seeing as it arrived in the 1820s it really should be better established. The fact that it still lingers on the fringe says a lot. Not that I’ve tasted all, but I place it in the $15 bracket, with $20 being the top end pricewise. As the notes above show, for my taste it meanders along as a sound wine, and is exciting only on occasion.