a homelea lass® crochet pattern

A HOMELEA LASS® CROCHET PATTERN

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©homelea lass 2016 #homelealass homelealass.com

There’s something about Christmas that makes me want to crochet happy things. Things that feel good to make, to give and to look at.

My Happy Christmas is something that you can get a quick “happy crochet hit” for Christmas. Whether you give it to a friend as a potholder or make it into lots of squares for a blanket, this pattern will have you feeling all happy and Christmassy.

With love,

Certainly! Use the code CHRISTMASSY at http://www.ravelry.com/redeem/homelea-lass to download and add this pattern to your Ravelry library.

http://homelealass.com/

http://www.ravelry.com/redeem/homelea-lass

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There are a couple of different ways that you can change the finished size:

Increase or decrease the number of stitches in the foundation chain and in the rows in multiples of 3.

Increase or decrease the number of rows.

Change the size of your yarn or your crochet hook.

1 x 50g ball of Australian Organic Wool’s 8ply Woolganic Knitters Yarn in Kyoto* (light green)

1 x 50g ball of Australian Organic Wool’s 8ply Woolganic Knitters Yarn in Gondwana* (dark green)

1 x 50g ball of Australian Organic Wool’s 8ply Woolganic Knitters Yarn in Chilli Pepper* (red)

3.75mm Addi Swing crochet hook*

Tape measure

Scissors

Darning needle

* these products are available in my boutique homelealass.com/crochet-boutique/

Finished size – 19cm (7.5in) by 19cm (7.5in)

Gauge – 19 stitches and 15 rows in a 10cm (3.9in) square


http://homelealass.com/crochet-boutique/

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I’ve written this pattern using US terminology and I’ve used abbreviations to make the pattern easy to follow. The abbreviations I’ve used and the equivalent UK and US terminologies are summarized in the table below. There is a version of this pattern written using UK terminology.

abbreviation US terminology UK terminology

ch chain chain

sc single crochet double crochet

dc double crochet treble

sl-st slip stitch slip stitch

st(s) stitch(es) stitch(es)

You may notice that I write and set out my crochet patterns a little differently. I do this to make it easier for you to follow and understand.

In this pattern the turning chain is always worked at the start of the row, not at the end of the previous row.

At the end of each row I’ve included the number of stitches in the row. You’ll find this in the curvy brackets. For example, {35 sts} means that there are 35 stitches in the row.

Your Homelea Lass® crochet pattern comes with full support. If you get a bit stuck following the pattern or are unsure what to do, just email [email protected] with your query. I’ll respond as soon as I can to help you out.


mailto:[email protected]

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This block is reversible so you can choose which side you want to be the right side / front.

To make this pattern super easy to crochet I’ve designing it so that the different yarn strands are carried up the side of the block instead of cutting them off and restarting for each colored row. To do this all you need to do is catch the resting yarn strands into the first and last stitch of each row.

To have the top and bottom edges of your block both showing the beautiful v’s of the crochet stitches all you need to do is work the stitches of row 1 into the single loop at the back of the chain stitches in the foundation chain.

Australian Organic Wool is a 100% certified organic merino wool that is grown in Australia and processed organically in New Zealand. It comes in 50g balls that have about 104m (114yds) in them.

This yarn comes in 13 gorgeous colors that are created with low impact, metal free dyes.

It is best to wash your Australian Organic Wool by hand with a wool detergent and dry in flat in the shade (no tumble drying).

Australian Organic Wool can be used for any standard 8ply or DK patterns – especially those that are close to the skin because it feels soft and lovely. It can be felted.


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Leaving a 15cm (5.9in) end, make a slip knot and then make 37 ch. {37 sts}

Work a ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn't count as a st) and then do a sc and 2 dc in the first st.

Repeat the following until there are 3 stitches left – skip the next 2 sts and then work a sc and 2 dc in the next st.

Skip the next 2 sts and work a sc in the last st of the row. Turn. {37 sts}

This is a good time to check your gauge - your row should be about 19cm (7.5in) long. Change yarn colors at the end of the row.

Work a ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn't count as a st) and then do a sc and 2 dc in the first st.

Repeat the following until there are 3 stitches left – skip the next 2 sts and then work a sc and 2 dc in the next st. The sts are worked into the sc of the row below.

Skip the next 2 sts and work a sc in the last st of the row. Turn. {37 sts}

Change yarn colors at the end of the row.


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Repeat row 2 changing the yarn color of each row in this order – kyoto, gondwana, chilli pepper. Row 28 will be kyoto. Don’t forget to catch the unused yarns in the first and last stitches of each row to carry them up the side of the block.

Work a ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn't count as a st) and then do a sc in the first st.

Repeat the following until there are 3 stitches left – skip the next 2 sts and then work a sc into the next st. The sc is worked into the sc of the row below.

Skip the next 2 sts and work a sc in the last st of the row. {37 sts}

Optional - make 13 ch and sl-st into the first ch to form a hanging loop.

Leaving a 15cm (5.9in) tail, cut off the yarns.

Pass the kyoto end through the loop and pull it to close and secure the st.

Weave in the ends using your darning needle to secure them. Trim off any loose ends.


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You’ve invested a lot of your precious time and energy into your crocheting so it’s important that it looks its best. Blocking will work its magic by relaxing and resetting the fibers in the yarn.

This is what you need to do:

Soak your crocheting in cold water mixed with wool detergent for approximately 30 minutes. This allows the water to fully soak into the fibers. You may need to turn your crocheting while it is soaking.

If it’s required by the detergent, rinse.

Drain the water from your crocheting by gently lifting it and letting the water run out of it. It’s important to avoid squeezing or wringing it at this stage because this can damage the delicate fibers of the yarn.

Spread out a towel and lie your crocheting flat on it. Fold the towel over your crocheting and roll it up to remove the excess water.

Take your crocheting out of the towel and lie it flat in a warm place that is out of direct sunlight.

Shape your crocheting to size by gently stretching it if required. Straighten up the edges and make sure it is even and flat. A ruler can come in handy with straightening up the edges.

Leave your crocheting to dry. You may need to turn it to ensure it dries completely.

To keep your crocheting looking beautiful follow these instructions any time it needs washing.


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© homelea lass 2016 #homelealass www.homelealass.com

Hi! My name is Lynda and I have designed this pattern for you. I am a creative, a teacher, an

intuitive, a yarn lover, a crochet queen and I enjoy drinking cups of tea in my home in the

Australian outback.

My magic power is that I can weave my intuitive and creative knowledge to help women to

heal themselves by creating soulfully.

I’d love to hear from you! Feel free to get in contact with me if you want to say hi, need some

help and, of course, to show me what you’ve made.

You can get in contact with me at:

website: homelealass.com

email: [email protected]

facebook: facebook.com/homelealass

instagram: @homelealass

This pattern is the original work of the designer and is not to be republished, photocopied, distributed, reproduced or sold without the express permission of the designer.


mailto:[email protected]

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a homelea lass® crochet pattern

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