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Color Guidebook for Solid Color Fabrics This guidebook contains general visual and instrumental assessment procedures for use in assessing solid color fabrics. Realizing that it is impossible to cover every issue relating to color assessment, these recommendations have been developed to provide you with a starting point for developing your own in-house procedures.

Table of Contents 1. Color and Colorimetry

1.1 The effect of the Illuminant 1.2 The effect of the object 1.3 The Observer

2. Color Communication 2.1 Terminology and Color Descriptors

3. Lighting and Standard Illuminants 3.1 Visual Color Assessment 3.2 Visual Color Assessment-Method

4. Color Evaluation – Instrumental Assessment 4.1 Measurement Technique 4.2 Instrumental Tolerances / Commercial Factors

5. The Destination Maternity Corp. Color Process 5.1 Obtaining Color Standards 5.2 Lab Dip Submissions 5.3 Color Lab Skill Requirements 5.4 Special Substrates 5.5 Assessment of Trim and Findings 5.6 Assessment of Coordinating Fabrics 5.7 Remote Approval process 5.8 Evaluation of white

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COLOR AND COLORIMETRY Many of the specifications given in this manual concern the quality of the color. Although color is a perception that we enjoy as humans, it is also a very important aspect of product quality. In surveys among consumers, the color of the item considered for purchase forms the first impression of quality. Although our color perception is subjective, a basic understanding of the principles of color will help us communicate and evaluate color in more objective ways. The following series of diagrams and text provide a short summary of the fundamentals of color and colorimetric descriptions. Color is a perception Color perception happens in the brain Color is a perception by an observer of light which has been modified by an object Other factors influence our perceptions, but without all three of these, there is no perception We can describe the source of light, objects and observers (eye-brain response), numerically: Light Source = Illuminant Object = Reflectance or Transmittance measurement Human Eye-Brain = Standard Observer Functions; X, Y, Z

Illuminant Object Observer

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1.1 The Effect of the Light Source and Illuminant Newton stated, very profoundly, that "in the absence of light, there is no color". All color originates in the spectral characteristics of the light that impinges upon an object. We "see" the result of this interaction between the incident light and the object. The light source provides the light for viewing a sample while an illuminant is the numerical description of a light source used for numerical assessment. It is very important to specify both the light source and illuminants used. As seen below, the same color appears very differently under different light sources. 1.2 The Effect of the Object The object is the textile fabric being evaluated. When light from a source strikes an object, several possible light-object interactions may occur: Certain portions of the incident light may be reflected from the object Light may be absorbed by the texture or by the dyes and pigments which are in the sample Light may be scattered by the substrate or by particles or other material inherent in the substrate. Light may be transmitted through the sample These light-object interactions determine the nature of the color we observe for the object under that specific light source.

3 textile substrates under D65 Daylight Same samples when viewed in CWF

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1.3 The Observer The observer is the person who is receiving visual stimuli from the light-object interaction. This act of "seeing" is a combination of the mechanics of optics (light, lens, focus) and the psycho-physical aspect of the brain. The brain interprets the visual stimuli and it is this interpretation that gives the sensation of color. In color science, this aspect of human perception of color has been empirically determined and the corresponding data for "normal color vision" has been named "The Standard Observer". The 1964 10 degree observer functions are typically used. Since variations in color vision exist, all color decision-makers should have their color vision regularly tested using a comprehensive hue test. COLOR COMMUNICATION Without standardized color communication, describing the visual differences between two fabric swatches can be very frustrating. Therefore, such standard color terminology is essential to promote clear and precise color communication. As discussed in the previous section, color may be described in terms of an internationally adopted system of color scales. These are the C.I.E. dimensions of Lightness (L*), Chroma (C*), and Hue (H*). In addition, the opponent scales of Red-Green (a*), and Yellow-Blue (b*) are also used. These dimensions in color space are shown in the following diagram from the Munsell Color Order System.

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2.1 Terminology and Color Descriptions To insure effective color communication in worldwide sourcing it is useful to adopt the color terminology of the International Commission on Illumination (C.I.E.). This terminology is also in accordance with the practices and test methods of the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). In describing color differences between the STANDARD and the SUBMITTED SAMPLE, it is recommended to use the C.I.E. system for color approvals, comments, and color descriptions. Lightness (L*) represents the dimension of lightness and darkness for a color. Dark colors have low values of L*, whereas a perfect white sample would have an L* value of 100. Lightness L* is sometimes referred to as Value.

L* represents the degree of Lightness or Darkness, Value

Darker Lighter

Duller Brighter

Lightness L*

Chroma C*

Hue H*

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Another dimension of color is Chroma represented by the C* value. Chroma is defined as the degree of color purity, saturation, or brilliance for a given color. Samples which have very low Chroma would be either white, gray, or black shades. These colors are sometimes called achromatic, for lack of Chroma.

C* Chroma represents the degree of Brightness or Saturation The third dimension of color is the Hue represented by the H* value. The hue of a color is associated with the dimension of shade, or cast of a color such as red, green, blue, yellow, violet, etc.

H* or Hue represents the shade or cast of a color As described earlier, there are other useful C.I.E. descriptions such as a* red/green, and b* yellow/blue which are useful for color descriptions.

a* represents the Red/Green coordinate of a color

b* represents the Yellow/Blue coordinate of a color Using the C.I.E. system for communication, color differences may be communicated as follows: dL* = difference in lightness/darkness between standard and submit +dL* = Lighter -dL* = Darker dC* = difference in brightness/ dullness +dC* =Brighter -dC* =Duller dH* = difference in cast or shade +dH* =Varies -dH* =Varies da* = difference in redness / greenness

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+da* =More Red -da* =More Green db* = difference in yellowness / blueness +db* =More Blue -db* =More Yellow 3. Lighting And Standard Illuminants

3.1 Visual Color Assessments Visual assessments are performed using a standardized lighting cabinet. Only lamps supplied by the original manufacturer of the lighting cabinet are to be used. Lamps should be replaced according to manufacturer specifications, or every 4000 hours. The UV lamp is used for assessing the effect of Fluorescent Whitening Agents (FWA’s) and should not be on when assessing visual color. The light cabinet should be serviced/calibrated on an annual basis and a service log kept for future inspection. F02/10 is the primary light source and D65 is the secondary light source for all visual and instrumental color evaluations at Destination Maternity, Corp. Final decisions regarding color quality are to be made under the primary light source. Submissions that do not meet the tolerances specified under both primary and secondary illuminants or exhibit signs of metamerism will be rejected. The secondary illuminant for visual and instrumental evaluations is D65. Samples for submission should be viewed under BOTH and should not exhibit significant metamerism. Metamerism refers to a condition in which a pair of samples visually matches in one set of conditions but fails to match in another

At Destination Maternity, we use the Gretag Macbeth Judge II. We expect all suppliers and agents to use the same lightbox or a comparable model. In addition, exact part

numbers of light tubes and the number of hours for replacement should be followed

per manufacturer’s instructions. Failing to properly maintain the lightbox will result in

inaccurate visual assessment.

Visual assessments need to be performed using a standardized lighting cabinet. The visual assessment in conjunction with the spectral reading will be the Mother’s Work

color analyst’s final deciding factor on whether a lab submission is pass or fail.

The primary lighting for Destination MFaternity color assessment is F02/10 fluorescent light. The secondary light source is D65/10 daylight.

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set of conditions. For example, if a standard and batch match in D65 but the batch flares red in a secondary light source while the standard flares green then the samples are described as metameric. One source of metamerism is differences in dye selection used to formulate the samples. Samples that are metameric are likely to be rejected. Please Note: Final decisions regarding color quality are to be made under F02/D65 illumination. We fully expect visual and instrumental assessments to be in close agreement, however in some borderline cases, Destination Maternity, Corp. will determine acceptability by visual assessment.

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3.2 Visual Assessment - Method Samples for visual assessment must be stable to ambient room conditions prior to making judgments. Samples that have not been allowed to condition may show sensitivity to moisture and temperature. In the light cabinet, the following procedure must be followed:

• There should be no ambient light shining on the light cabinet or its contents

• The cabinet surface must be clear of other samples

• The samples should be placed on the 45 degree viewing table within the cabinet and always viewed at this angle

• The observer should allow 20 seconds of adaptation to the illumination in the lighting cabinet. When changing between light sources, the observer should allow 20 seconds before making a judgment

• The standard and the sample must be aligned next to each other with their edges slightly touching

• The standard and the sample must be aligned in the same direction with respect to weave, knit pattern, or other textures (see figure below)

• The standard and sample should be folded so that at least two layers of fabric are visible.

• The observer should note color differences in Lightness, Chroma, and Hue.

Rib Standard Rib Lab Dip

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4. Color Measurement - Instrumental Procedure In addition to visual assessment, Destination Maternity, Corp. highly recommends the use of color measurement to add support and quantitative validity to the visual color assessment. Reliable color measurement provides the basis for color approvals by numerical tolerancing – a process that is more efficient and completely objective. Note to Suppliers: Destination Maternity, Corp. color offices are equipped with high quality instruments for color measurement and colorimetric data are calculated and archived using the latest color difference and tolerance methods. All supplier submittals are measured and stored for periodic reporting. Historical reports are generated which provide each division within 1.0 DE with supplier performance summaries. The quality of first shot matches, approval percentages, and turn-around times on lab dips are regularly analyzed. Instrumental assessment within 1.0 DE is performed using the Datacolor Spectraflash 600 Plus Close Tolerance spectrophotometer. The instrument

Sample Orientation Diagram

0/45 Visual Color Assessment Using the Light Cabinet

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should be located in a clean and conditioned environment with a constant temperature of 21 degrees C +/- 1 degree C and a constant humidity of 65% +/- 2% without condensation. The instrument should also be covered under an annual maintenance and calibration contract. 4.1 Measurement Technique It is in the best interest of the supplier to conduct color measurements that agree very closely with those being done by Destination Maternity, Corp. The manner in which samples are measured greatly influences the colorimetric output. The following method has been developed at DMC and found to be highly reproducible: Conditioning of the samples prior to measurement Standard laboratory conditions are required as defined by ASTM (American Standard Testing Methods), as temperature of 72F, and relative humidity 65%, non-condensing. All samples are allowed to condition in the lab environment, including exposure to ambient lighting, for at least 30 minutes prior to measurement. A temperature difference of 10C may cause a color change of 1.0 or more dE(cmc) for some colors. In addition, humidity can affect the color and therefore measurement of some dyed materials. In addition to maintaining standard laboratory conditions, a daily log of temperature and humidity conditions should be kept. Spectrophotometer Settings Samples must be measured using either the LAV (30mm Large Area View) aperture or the MAV (20mm Medium Area View) aperture. The UV filter is set to UV 400nm cutoff (excluded) or UV calibrated, and Specular Component Included (SCI) mode.. Spectrophotometer Maintenance and Calibration The SF600+CT spectrophotometer must be calibrated at least every 8 hours Perform the “Green Tile” check on a daily basis. The SF600+CT spectrophotometer should be re-calibrated annually using the SpectralTest service from Datacolor. The white tile should be clean and free of scratches The correct white tile calibration file MUST be loaded The black trap should be free of dust All calibration materials should be stored in the original closed case when not in use. Ensure that the inside of the sphere is clean and free of lint

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Keep logs of all maintenance, service, and calibrations Sample Size, Presentation and Handling Fabric swatches for measurement are to be folded until they are opaque. (2) Layers may be suitable for most fabrics however sheer or translucent fabrics may need to be folded twice to form four (4) or more layers for measurement. For any measurement, make sure the sample is not protruding into the sphere. Remove any obstructing items from all samples to be measured. Labels and backing will influence the measurements leading to inaccurate data. Check alignment of the sample by flipping down the aperture plate. Ensure the commercial front or “face” is facing the aperture port Ensure that the sample is flat and not under tension Ensure that the sample completely covers the aperture Measurement and Orientation of Samples Optimum results are typically obtained by taking four (4) measurements on the fabric, rotating the fabric 90º AND repositioning the fabric to a different spot between each measurement. The orientation with respect to the texture of the swatch should result in measurements taken at the 90º, 180º, 270º). The four measurements are automatically averaged by ColorTools QC. The main requirement is that the technique produces repeatable measurements. “Measurement Methods for Textiles” in Appendix A provides the details and recommended procedures for developing repeatable measurement techniques. Indicates fabric grain/or rib direction

Read 1 Read 2 (90º) Read 3 (180º) Read 4 (270º) Possible measurement exceptions: Knit samples must be measured with the knit direction in the vertical.

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Yarn samples must be oriented in a horizontal direction. Twill samples must be positioned so that the twill pattern is from top right to bottom left. 4.2 Instrumental Tolerances / Commercial Factors Instrumental tolerances (or commercial factors) are usually implemented to provide vendors/suppliers/mills with a better idea of what is considered an acceptable color match. Vendors/Mills that utilize the color technology to “pre-screen” their samples before submission will benefit greatly by knowing with a high degree of certainty whether or not a sample will be accepted before it has been sent. This allows for much faster turn around time and quicker approvals while improving quality. DE (CMC) with an l:c ration of (2:1) is the recommended color difference equation. The commercial factor or tolerance should be determined by visual assessment by a panel of colorists. 10-20 standards, representing a wide range of colors, each with 5 batches should be evaluated separately by each colorist. The samples are marked as accept or reject. Then, each sample is measured and the commercial factor (dECMC) is determined by comparing the visual decisions to the DE values. When the standard and batch are of very different structure or form, it may be necessary to determine and use a different commercial factor or tolerance. Tolerances are typically used as "filters" for sample submissions. Samples that have color differences from the standard, which are higher than of the specification may be unacceptable. Corrections should be made to achieve a color match that is as close to the standard as possible. In the event that it is not possible to produce a match within these tolerances, it may be necessary to mark and submit as “BEST POSSIBLE”. Color differences should be communicated using standard terminology from section 2.1.

Type of Sample Being Submitted DE CMC(2:1) Tolerances, Maximum allowable against the master standard

Lab Dips DE(CMC) = 1.0

Bulk Production DE(CMC) = 1.2

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The Destination Maternity Color Process At Destination Maternity Corp., we are currently creating color processes to achieve our ultimate goal- good, consistent color while maintaining “speed to market”. This section will give you, the agent/supplier, an overview of how to obtain color standards, how to submit lab dips for approval and the color approval process. The merchandising/design teams usually select color palettes at the beginning of the season. When a color has been selected as a standard, it will be measured with the SF600+CT spectrophotometer in ColorTools as per the standard procedures or matched to CSI’s ‘Color Wall’. The CSI measurement and sample usually become the “master” electronic and physical standards respectively. All electronic comparisons should be made against this master electronic standard. The master electronic standard can be e-mailed to the appropriate parties for instrumental assessment. Physical standards are typically mailed to the appropriate parties for visual assessment. Where possible, the standard selected will be on the same construction and fiber type as the product being designed. 5.1 Obtaining Color Standards Destination Maternity Corp. uses color standards distributed through Color Solutions International. The color standard swatches are 2” x 8” (51mm x 203mm) and Destination Maternity Corp. vendor cards are available from: Color Solutions International 9844-A Southern Pine Blvd. Charlotte, NC 28273 USA E-mail: sales@colorsolutionsinternational.com Website: www.colorsolutionsinternational.com Telephone: + 1-704-561-2900 Color Solutions International is part of the DyStar family and therefore, when attempting to match to a color standard in the mill, a DyStar support or technical representative can be contacted for assistance in matching the color. This service is available globally. https://www.colorsolutionsinternational.com/Index2.html Currently, CSI color standards are produced on either 100% cotton jersey fabric or 100% cotton woven fabric. � Standards for Intimate Apparel are produced on 100% Nylon microfiber knitted fabric.

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� There are a small number of 100% Polyester standards in use for very bright shades (for application onto synthetic fabrics only). � An engineered formula may be available on substrates in addition to cotton and nylon this may be requested when ordering standards online. . COLOR STANDARDS-WEB INSTRUCTIONS To clarify a few questions some of you have asked, in regards to obtaining standards from DMC, please see our color management’s update below: 1] To open an account with Color Solutions International www.colorsolutionsinternational.com] you go to the web-site above and click on “My CSI”. In the Orange Box, click on “Request New User”. Fill out the information required and create your own user name and password. Enter your shipping and billing address. Once your account is created, you can begin searching for standards on the CSI web-site. Also, put the email address of the person who should receive the recipe files. Step 1: Click ‘My CSI’. Enter user name and password Step 2: Click ‘Orders/Search’ Step 3: Choose Division [from drop-down]. Step 4: Season/year [at Description] Step 5: Choose color for that division/season. The color may be searched by name only. Step 6: Add quantity for each color and ‘checkout’. At terms for payment section, you need to create a P.O. number for your order. [You can use the date or a sequential number]. Step 7: You will receive color standards in (5) working days VIA DHL. Step 8: This 100% cotton standard will arrive as a Destination Maternity vendor card with a 2” x 8” fabric inside. This vendor card will list the CSI number and the divisional logo.

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Light Bro 70CL0700 MOTHE

COLOR

PEA EXAMPLE MOTHERHOOD 2] The CSI number will read as the two examples above. [For example: 70CL0700020CK] prefix main # suffix The prefix may change as [70] [04] or [25], however, this prefix is internal to CSI and has no critical meaning to the DMC/CSI color. The suffix denotes the standards’ fabrication. [CK = cotton knit or MC = mercerized cotton] Our PDM will indicate the CSI color # for the style. Please confirm that the main

part of the # you receive matches the main # on the PDM. Otherwise, the NAME and NUMBER on the vendor card should match the color information in PDM and the CSI color will also be listed in PDM. 3] When ordering standards, the system does not search by color reference number, however, they are hoping to make that possible in the future. You can, however, use the color name and all references will appear. Please take note of division. See below:

Light Brown

70CL0700020CO

Destination maternity

COLOR

STANDARD

Light Gray

04CW1100753CK

Destination maternity

COLOR

STANDARD

Sage Green-

4172

Destination maternity

COLOR

STANDARD

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When you are ready to place your order and you get to the terms in the payment section you need to put in some kind of PO number. If you don’t have a PO number to enter you can put in the date or any other number that you would like to use. 4] Within 24 hours, you will receive the .qtx files for the colors ordered. 5] If you need an engineered recipe for a different fiber content: Click on “recipe” and choose substrate from drop-down. A representative from Dystar will be automatically copied on the order and will contact you within 24 hours to help with formulation. There is no commitment for you to order from Dystar. This is simply an added feature to the CSI contract with Destination Maternity. 6] Proceed with lab dips as per the Destination Maternity Guidebook’s procedure. We encourage you to read the colors digitally, either at the dye house or in your own office. This will truly give you the ability to educate yourselves on digital color matching, as well, as understanding the current DMC pass/fail tolerance of 1.0 DE.

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These are additional instructions from CSI: Type in your current User name and Password then click Login.

Choose your Retailer Then click next

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Then Chose your Division… Your retailer may only have 1 division to choose from…

Once you chose your division all palettes for the Division will show

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Choose the palette you are ordering from and all colors will Show

Type in the quantity you want for each color on the palette then click add to cart

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Then you will see your order summary. If your order is complete click on Check out if not click continue shopping. If you decide you do not want any of these colors click Empty Cart.

You will then see your billing and shipping information. Be sure this information is correct.

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Choose your method of payment, if you chose Credit card you will see the following. Please fill in all of your card information

If you chose Wire transfer you will see the following: the wire transfer banking information will be shown.

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Then chose your recipes, QTX Files, shipping information, add notes on the order if needed. Then Click Continue

Another summary of everything you have requested will show. If all is correct click complete order. If anything needs to be corrected click on the Edit next to the section you need to correct.

If you choose to

use your Fed

Ex/DHL/ or UPS

account, click

here and enter

your number.

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Once you have completed the order the order number will show in the yellow line. This will be saved under order history. You can print your order from this screen, or re-order the same colors if needed.

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The merchandising/design teams at Destination Maternity, Inc. select color palettes at the beginning of the season. When a color has been selected as a standard, it will be measured with the SF600+CT spectrophotometer in ColorTools as per the standard procedures or matched to CSI’s ‘Color Wall’. The CSI measurement and sample will become the “master” electronic and physical standards respectively. All electronic comparisons should be made against this master electronic standard. [MES] The master electronic standard can be e-mailed to the appropriate parties ahead of time for instrumental assessment. Physical standards are mailed to the appropriate parties for visual assessment only. When ordering standards with Color Solutions International, within 24 hours you will receive the .qtx file for the colors ordered. This file is your standard and can be stored in your color software as a folder for easy access. Visual References will be acquired and can be measured and compared to the master electronic standard to verify the accuracy of the visual reference only. ALL COMPARISONS USING ColorTools QC / SF600+CT SHOULD BE TO THE MES, NOT A READING OF THE MES. 5.2 SUBMITTING LAB DIPS TO DESTINATION MATERNITY Lab dips that are to be submitted to Destination Maternity need to follow certain criteria in order to be properly reviewed. Submissions that do not conform to the guidelines will not be assessed. These guidelines allow the color analyst to accurately measure the color and make appropriate pass/fail decisions. All lab dips must be submitted on the Destination Maternity Submittal Form. This form can be made available as a “Fill in and Print” Word document that can be saved in your files. Information must always be filled out as completely as possible. Please email mdavenport@destinationmaternity.com for the Word document. A .pdf version of this form is also available if you do not have Word software capabilities. Lab Dip Submittal Guidelines • Swatches must be a minimum of 2” X 2”. All sides of the swatch must measure at least 2”. • Do not cut the corner of the swatch. If a sample of each lab dip is needed, cut along the full length or width of the swatch. • A minimum of 3 swatches is recommended for submittal.

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• The swatches must be attached to the Destination Maternity submittal form with double stick tape only. Please do not use cellophane tape, packing tape, glue, staples, etc. as these all distort the color readings. • Yarns or threads can be submitted however they MUST be tightly and uniformly wound onto non UV-enhanced white cardstock. Non UV-enhanced cardstock does not have optical brighteners in the paper. When viewed under UV lighting, UV-enhanced paper will glow or appear purple. Cardstock used for winding yarns cannot glow or turn “purple” under UV lights because the optical brighteners interfere with a spectrophotometer reading. • Proper alignment will prevent the formation of shadows that the spectrophotometer would detect as depth of shade. • The yarns or threads must be thickly wound so that light does not pass through the strands and reflect off of the cardstock. • Yarn tension needs to be controlled from sample to sample to prevent measurement errors. • Lab dips must be labeled “A”, “B”, “C”…If lab dips are being resubmitted, please continue with the alphabet. For example, the first set of lab dips are labeled “AD…”. They are rejected so resubmitted lab dips of that same color need to come through labeled as “…E-H…”. • Lab dips must be free of ink. Labeling must be done on the submittal form itself instead of on the fabric dip. Two sets of lab dip trials should be submitted to your agents office, one for their reference and one for Destination Maternity.

• Yarn-dyed Programs - Individual yarn colors must be dyed, woven/knit, read into the spectrophotometer and submitted electronically. No loose yarns should be submitted. Lab dips should be submitted to the local agents office within 10 working days after receipt of reference submitted to Destination Maternity. MW will advise results within 2 working days after receipt of lab dip. Note: If the same color/same style was used in a previous season, the vendor must have the lab dip reapproved. An exception would be an ongoing, uninterrupted program. In this case, only new colors must be submitted for approval.

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Lab dip submissions must include the X-factory and 1st in DC date. Lab dips must be submitted in the correct fiber content, construction and weight. Lab dips must be attached to a Lab Dip Approval Form face side up using double sided tape. The same fabric from the same mill, for different styles, can be grouped in a lab dip submission, so that the vendor needs only that single submission to cover those styles. All relevant style #’s must be clearly identified on the submission. If the lab dip is passing to standard THEN bulk must pass to the standard also. The standard is our target. [The BULK must pass by our original criteria of 1.20DE to standard and the lab dip must pass by our original criteria of 1.00DE]. The lab dip and bulk must be passing to the standard. Only our design staff can authorize the use of the lab dip as standard for the bulk. Vendor Screening Prior to submitting lab dips to Destination Maternity, the Agent should instrumentally and visually pre-screen all lab dips to ensure that they fall within

the 1.00 CMC ∆E to the standard. Lab dips that pass can then be forwarded to Destination Maternity. 5.3 Color Lab Skill Requirements We require that anyone involved in color evaluation to take either the Farnsworth-Munsell 100 Hue Test or the HVC Color Skills Test. Generally, solid color lab dips are reviewed spectrally and visually. This is especially important as we are in the beginning stages of color evaluation. There are circumstances where the substrate does not allow an accurate spectral assessment. 5.4 Special Substrates Corduroy, polar fleece (right side up has pile), chenille, velvet and velveteen, velour (with the exception of long hair velour- see third paragraph), and satins (shiny fabrics) will have a spectral measurement done for a general overview of hue and metamerism. However, a visual evaluation is mandatory for these substrates. The data will only serve as a guide for decision-making with attention paid more to hue and metamerism. The 1.00 CMC De ceiling does not apply to these substrates.

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How to read napped fabric visually: Nap should be down. Sample should be viewed on an angle within the cabinet and always viewed at this angle.

Mesh, chiffon, taffeta, organza, georgette, micro denier, etc. can be reviewed spectrally, IF enough fabric is submitted. If a spectral measurement is taken, an exception of depth on dark colors (especially black and navy) will be made due to the fabric limitations. Good hue numbers and low metamerism will aid in a decision, however a visual evaluation with the knowledge of these limitations will determine the pass/fail decision. An approval will be made on colors showing low dh and low metamerism but high dl. The 1.00 CMC De ceiling does not apply to these substrates. Fake fur or terry cloth (high looped terry on the right side of the fabric) or any

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other fabric consisting of a thick pile or long hair, cannot be measured on the spectrophotometer. The texture of these type of fabrics protrude into the sphere of the spectrophotometer, and cause uneven reflectance. A visual review is required. The 1.00 CMC De ceiling does not apply to these substrates. 5.5 Assessment of Trim and Findings These are defined as decorative or functional material that must color coordinate with the garment. Trim [dyed to match-DTM]—such as ribbons, lace, piping, placket tape or any other ornamentation. Findings—such as exposed zippers, buttons, elastic or any other material used in the construction of the garment. Trims and findings will be evaluated on unwashed garment programs only. A visual assessment will be conducted, if it is not measurable on the spectrophotometer. These evaluations will be conducted in the light box under our primary and secondary illuminant. [CWF and DAYLIGHT to check for metamerism.] This will be done against the approved bulk fabric color. A DE (CMC) value of .75 will be used as the maximum tolerance when approving trims and findings. 5.6 Assessment of Coordinating Fabrics These are defined as different fabrications within the same garment that must color coordinate within the garment. [For example, collars and cuffs, bellies or different fabric construction being the same color, within one garment—i.e. Jersey body with 1x1 rib trim] At the lab dip stage, coordinating components are compared to each other. If the item covered by the lab dip must coordinate with another item, please submit all dips at the same time. If this is not possible and you have an approval on one component of a garment, the approved lab dip should be referenced, on the submit form, when you send in any additional components to DMAT’s color lab. Bulk will be compared under the same circumstances. A DE (CMC) value of .75 will be used as the maximum tolerance when approving coordinating fabrics.

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5.7 REMOTE COLOR APPROVAL PROCESS I Define roles and responsibilities II Document process regarding: Lab dips and bulk approval Trim matching Coordinating color match within a body Special substrates Introduction The Destination Maternity Accreditation Program was developed to promote standardized practices and test methods among the Destination Maternity supply chain with regard to physical testing and color evaluation. This Accreditation program seeks to insure that DESTINATION MATERNITY accredited suppliers perform evaluations which are consistent with DESTINATION MATERNITY and thereby improving the efficiency of the sample and production bulk approval process. This process certifies the operators of the color system(s) and the evaluation processes performed by these operators. You must pass this accreditation to remotely approve lab dips for Destination Maternity, Inc. 1] Lab dips Remote approval process: A physical is sent for reference only. Agent has the okay to proceed to bulk without DMC approval. Agent must notify product manager confirming approval and info will be entered into PDM internally. Agent sends digital info [.qtx file] on lab dip to color lab for reference and storage. DMC defines a pass/fail tolerance of 1.0DE in our primary illuminant of CWF [fluorescent light]. IF THE PHYSICAL IS A DESIGNER’S SWATCH STANDARD: A swatch is provided by design for reading and is chosen as the standard. There will not be remote approval on the following where a swatch/standard is provided for development: charmeuse, satin, slub knits, ribs, washed fabric, velvet and corduroy unless the developed submit is the same construction. [For example, charmeuse standard for charmeuse dips, satin standard for satin dips, etc…] Remote approval is possible only in this situation. If a swatch is provided by design for any of the above listed fabric and it is being developed in any other fabric construction, please send these types of lab dips

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to design for approval. Design will approve these lab dips visually. There will not be remote approval in this situation. If Agent cannot submit a passing lab dip in the time required to meet T & A then an okay to proceed to bulk needs DMAT approval. A physical is sent for reading and assessment by DMC. Agent sends notification to DMAT requesting receipt acknowledgement. Agent waits 24 hours for accept/reject from DMC. Lab dip is marked “best can do” for reference. Penalties may apply. 2] Bulk Remote approval process: A physical is sent for reference and approval only for the initial dyeing of a color. The Agent sends notification to DMC requesting receipt acknowledgement. Agent waits 24 hours for “accept or reject” from DMC. DMC defines a pass/fail tolerance of 1.20DE in our primary illuminant but, if the lab dip is passing to standard THEN bulk must pass to the standard also. The standard is our target. [The BULK must pass by our original criteria of 1.20DE to standard and the lab dip must pass by our original criteria of 1.00DE]. The lab dip and bulk must be passing to the standard IF REMOTE APPROVAL IS POSSIBLE. [Please see “non-remote approval” fabrication information in lab dip approval]. Only our design staff can authorize the use of the lab dip as standard for the bulk. DMAT design examines the quality for proper weight/finish. Once a bulk color has been approved in the same substrate, a physical does not need to be sent for approval. The agent assumes full responsibility for the examination of color/weight/finish. A] If accept: Product manager gives “green light” to Agent/mill to proceed B] If reject: Product manager advises corrections IF THE PHYSICAL IS A DESIGNER’S SWATCH STANDARD: Where a swatch/standard is provided as the following: charmeuse, satin, slub knits, ribs, washed fabric, velvet and corduroy and it is being developed on any other fabrication, DMAT’s color lab can approve the bulk to the visually approved lab dip. Design will approve the lab dips visually. If Agent cannot submit a passing bulk in the time required to meet T & A then a physical is sent for reading and assessment by DMC. Agent sends notification to DMC requesting receipt acknowledgement. Agent waits 24 hours for accept/reject from DMC. Bulk is marked “best can do” for reference. Penalties may apply.

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3] Trim These are defined as decorative or functional material that must color coordinate with the garment. Trim [dyed to match-DTM]—such as ribbons, lace, piping, placket tape or any other ornamentation. Findings—such as exposed zippers, buttons, elastic or any other material used in the construction of the garment. Remote approval process: A physical is sent for reference and approval only for the initial dyeing of a color. The Agent sends notification to DMAT requesting receipt acknowledgement. Agent waits 24 hours for “accept or reject” from DMAT. A visual assessment will be conducted, if it is not measurable on the spectrophotometer. These evaluations will be conducted in the light box under our primary and secondary illuminant. [CWF and DAYLIGHT to check for metamerism.] This will be done against the approved bulk fabric color. DMAT requires that anyone involved in color evaluation take either the Farnsworth-Munsell Hue Test or the HVC Color skill test to determine their visual capabilities. 4] Coordination within a garment These are defined as different fabrications within the same garment that must color coordinate within the garment. [For example, collars and cuffs, bellies or different fabric construction being the same color, within one garment—i.e. Jersey body with 1x1 rib trim]. At the lab dip stage, coordinating components are compared to each other. If it is not possible and you have an approval on one component of a garment, the approved lab dip must be referenced when reading the coordinating bulk. A DE (CMC) value of .75 will be used as the maximum tolerance when approving coordinating fabrics. Remote approval process: A physical is sent for reference only. Agent has the okay to proceed to bulk without DMAT approval. Agent must notify product manager confirming approval and info will be entered into PDM internally. Agent sends digital info on lab dip to color lab for reference and storage. DMAT defines a pass/fail tolerance of .75DE in our primary illuminant of CWF [fluorescent light]. If Agent cannot submit a passing lab dip in the time required to meet T & A then an okay to proceed to bulk needs DMC approval. A physical is sent for reading and assessment by DMC. Agent sends notification to DMC requesting receipt acknowledgement. Agent waits 24 hours for accept/reject from DMAT. Lab dip is marked “best can do” for reference.

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5] Special substrates Corduroy, polar fleece (right side up has pile), chenille, velvet and velveteen, velour and satins (shiny fabrics) and sweater knits will have a spectral measurement done for a general overview of hue and metamerism. However, a visual evaluation is mandatory for these substrates. The data will only serve as a guide for decision-making with attention paid more to hue and metamerism. [dH* difference in cast or shade]. The 1.00 CMC De ceiling does not apply to these substrates. Fake fur or terry cloth (high looped terry on the right side of the fabric) or any other fabric consisting of a thick pile or long hair, cannot be measured on the spectrophotometer. The texture of these types of fabrics protrudes into the sphere of the spectrophotometer, and cause uneven reflectance. A visual review is required. The 1.00 CMC De ceiling does not apply to these substrates. 5.8 EVALUATION OF WHITE Whiteness indices are available in Datacolor TOOLS, which are used to evaluate the following: · The whiteness of the material · The presence of optical brighteners · The effect of optical brighteners on the whiteness of the materials. These evaluations must be performed using a spectrophotometer fitted with an adjustable UV filter. In addition, the evaluation typically conforms to a procedure defined by standards organization such as ISO, ASTM, CIE, SCAN, TAPPI, etc. Each procedure specifies the following: · Instrument calibration standard to be used · UV calibration standard to be used · UV calibration procedure to be used · Measurement condition(s) to be used · Number of measurements to be made for each sample measured

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· Illuminant/observer selection to be used · Whiteness calculation to be used The whiteness indices used by Destination Maternity, Inc. is CIE Whiteness [UV D65/10]. When using the whiteness evaluations in the program, you should reference the standard procedure carefully to insure that that you are performing it correctly. If you do not, your results will not be valid. What are Optical Brighteners? Optical Brightening Agents (OBA’s) also referred to as Fluorescent Whitening Agents (FWA’s) are chemicals containing molecules that fluoresce. When they are applied to white materials they give the material the appearance of being "whiter than white". Optical brighteners are commonly used in textile and paper products. What is Fluorescence? The energy present in natural daylight is not limited to the wavelengths of the visible spectrum (400 – 700nm). It includes radiation from the entire electromagnetic spectrum. When radiation strikes a fluorescent molecule, it excites the molecule and is absorbed by it. As the molecule returns to its normal state, it emits the absorbed energy as visible light, rather than heat. In the case of OBA’s, energy in the ultra-violet region of the visible spectrum is absorbed by the molecule and re-emitted in the blue region of the visible spectrum, around 450nm. In the case of white materials, any increase in the energy reflected in the blue region results in the white appearing "bluer". A bluer white is perceived as "cleaner", while a white that has aged or become dirty appears to be yellow, and is less acceptable to the eye than a "blue-shade" white. As a result, OBA's are commonly added to white fabrics and other white materials to make them bluer, or cleaner. What is a UV Filter Calibration? The UV Calibration option is used to re-adjust the position of the UV filter (referred to as the UV calibrator). Because of the changes to the light source and the sphere coating, you must be able to adjust the filter to control the amount of ultra-violet light in the source. This ensures that you consistently simulate the spectral energy distribution of the Illuminant specified by the standard whiteness procedure you are using.

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NOTES · The filter calibration is not the same as the standard instrument calibration, and requires the use of a fluorescent calibration standard. · The UV filter calibration should be performed on a weekly basis. · The standard instrument calibration should be performed every 8 hours. Fluorescent Calibration Standard The UV filter calibration requires the use of a fluorescent calibration standard that is different from the standard white calibration tile. A fluorescent tile is typically provided with UV-enhanced spectrophotometers for this procedure. However, textile, plastic and paper standards provided by recognized laboratories can also be used for the UV filter calibration. Regardless of the type of fluorescent standard used, you will need to input a target whiteness value for the calibration standard into the program. These values are normally provided with the calibration standard. Preparing for a Whiteness Evaluation To perform any whiteness evaluation on a fluorescent material, you must identify the following requirements: · The measurement conditions to be used. This includes the aperture size, position of the specular port, and the UV filter to be used. These selections are used for both the UV calibration procedure and for the whiteness evaluation. · The instrument calibration procedure to be used. This specifies the aperture size, the specular port position, etc. to be used to perform the normal instrument calibration. · The fluorescent calibration standard to be used for adjusting the position of the UV filter. Datacolor provides a white calibration tile to be used as a fluorescent standard. However, the procedure you are using may specify the use of a textile, paper or plastic standard. You will need to identify the standard to use. Target values are provided with the calibration standard you use. You must input the values into the program and the program stores them.

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NOTE If you are evaluating the whiteness of a non-fluorescent sample, you do not need to make these selections. You are only required to perform a standard instrument calibration before you measure the samples. · The UV calibration procedure is to be used to adjust the position of the UV filter. This selection is made each time you perform a UV calibration: § UV D65/10 (CIE Whiteness) · Calibration Standard. Datacolor provides a standard white tile for use in the daily calibration of the instrument. See Instrument Menu, Calibrate, Abs. White for instructions to input new values for the white calibration standard. · UV Filter Calibration Standard. The UV filter calibration requires the use of a fluorescent calibration standard that is different from the standard white calibration tile. A fluorescent tile is typically provided with UV-enhanced spectrophotometers for this procedure. However, a textile, plastic and paper standards provided by recognized laboratories can also be used for the UV filter calibration. Regardless of the type of fluorescent standard used, you will need to input target whiteness value for the calibration standard into the program. These values are normally provided with the calibration standard. Program Configuration for Whiteness Options

• UV Calibration is mandatory prior to reading all white fabric.

• Use “UV D65/10 Cie Whiteness” as the desired calibration method

• Choose ‘daylight’ as the primary illuminant when reading white fabric Pass/Fail Tolerances for White

• A delta CIE Whiteness tolerance of +/- 5.0 is the maximum allowable difference from the standard

• A delta tint tolerance of +/- .50 is the maximum allowable difference from the standard when the batch’s CIE Whiteness is below zero [a negative whiteness to standard].

• A visual assessment is necessary for all white. Use the light box with the daylight setting for all white evaluations.

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• Destination Maternity Inc. requires that only the CIE whiteness/tint be reported for this evaluation of white. This is a standard Datacolor form and can be printed by going to ‘form>screen forms>CIE whiteness/tint.