Accessories

Chapter 11

Accessories•IMPULSE ITEMS –

products that customers typically buy on the spur of the moment

1.Main Floor

2.Near the door

3.Near the cash register

Fashion Accessories•Shoes•Hosiery•Bodywear•Handbags•Jewelry•Gloves•Millinery (hats)

SHOES• New England and St. Louis,

Missouri are the major centers for shoe production

•LAST – a form in the shape of a foot over which shoes are built

• Lasts were originally wooden forms now they are plastic or aluminum.

Marketing of Shoes1.Advertising – brand name

ads are important in national fashion magazines and television

2.Dual-distribution- a manufacturer’s policy of selling goods at both retail and wholesale levels.

Industry Trends for Shoes• Before 1920’s it was considered

immodest to expose the feminine ankle. Since then shoes have developed both in fashion importance and variety. After World War II the black or brown all purpose shoe disappeared

Hosiery• History – Until World War I

women’s legs were hidden under floor length skirts and dresses.

• Hosiery industry grew when skirt lengths moved up. Women wore silk, cotton or rayon stockings

• 1938- Nylon stockings were introduced

Hosiery•Boarding – a heat setting

process through which hosiery acquires permanent shape.

Hosiery• 1942- 1945 During World War

II nylon production was restricted to war purposes (parachutes)

• Women now went bare-legged or used leg make-up to give the effect of sheer stockings

HosieryThe 1940’s –World War II brought many restrictions and shortages of material such as nylon. Women were not allowed to buy such items made out of nylon like stockings. So new products called “Leg Charm” came out as a substitute. Women used these new leg creams and eyeliner pencils to create the effects of stockings. The 40’s brought new concepts such as women taking the same jobs as men, radios and records, strong nationalism and an emergence of American designers. Some popular styles of the 1940’s were knee- length skirts, padded shoulders and rolled hair, tailored suits and small hats.

• First introduced by the Du Pont Corporation in 1940, nylon stockings were an instant success. Billed as "stronger than steel" and "run-proof," the public was fascinated by the new synthetic material. Du Pont brilliantly promoted the new stockings from the start. On May 15, 1940, Du Pont declared "N-Day" - for the first time, all across America, nylon stockings would go on sale. Women lined up for blocks and Du Pont sold 5 million pair in that single day.

• During World War II Du Pont was forced to divert its nylon production to war-related materials, such as parachutes and aircraft tires. The nylon stocking shortage had begun. In America, the demand for nylon stockings was so high that people began paying $20 on the black market (before the start of the war they had cost a little over a dollar). In Chicago, police ruled out robbery as a motive in a murder case because the perpetrator had left behind six pair of nylon stockings at the crime scene!

• In August of 1945, only eight days after Japan's surrender, Du Pont announced that it would immediately return to producing nylon stockings. The next month stockings went on sale at a limited number of stores. Thousands of people showed up for the stockings, which quickly sold out, and so began the first of the so-called "Nylon Riots." Throughout 1945, stores were besieged by mobs of women who had learned of the sales by word of mouth. Du Pont, not fully recovered from its wartime conversion, could not keep up with the demand. People waiting in line were disorderly and police had to disperse crowds. When stores sold out of the precious hosiery, fights broke out. In Pittsburgh, the mayor arranged for a stocking sale in response to a petition by four hundred women. On the day of the sale, 40,000 people lined up to fight for 13,000 pairs. Similar scenes took place all across the country. Finally, by March of 1946, Du Pont was producing 30 million pairs a month, enough for everyone, and the "Nylon Riots" ended.

Hosiery• 1950’s Introduction of colors

other than black or flesh tones

• 1960’s to accessorize the shorter skirt, colors, textures (fishnet) are introduced

• 1970’s women wearing pants: pantyhose, knee-highs, ankle-highs are in vogue

• 1980’s patterned pantyhose

Marketing of Hosiery1.Major hosiery producers

sell to retail stores across the country. Ex. Hanes, Burlington, Round

the Clock, Kayser-Roth

Marketing of Hosiery2.Major hosiery producers

carry a designer label:• Ex. Hanes uses Oleg Cassini• Kayser Roth uses Calvin

Klein• Round-the Clock uses

Givenchy

Marketing of Hosiery3.Private and store brands.

The cost is usually less because there is less advertising.• Ex Sears-Best• Macys – Supremacy• I. Magnin - Magnifique

Marketing of Hosiery4.Mass-merchandised

brands for supermarket discount brands.• Ex. Leggs made by Hanes• No-nonsense made by

Kayser Roth

Bodywear•Bodywear-includes

leotards, tights, wrap skirts, sweatsuits, exercise outfits.

Industry trends of hosiery:•When skirts are shorter,

texture and color in hosiery become important.

•When pants are in fashion, pantyhose and knee-highs are popular.

Jewelry•Fine Jewelry•Bridge Jewelry•Costume or Fashion Jewelry

Fine Jewelry•Jewelry made of such

precious metals such as gold and platinum which may be set with precious or semiprecious gemstones.

Gemstones•Natural stones used in

making jewelry.•Precious gemstones –

diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, pearls

Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, pearls

Semiprecious Gemstones•Amethysts•Garnets•Opals•Jades

Costume Jewelry•Mass produced jewelry

made of plastic, wood, glass, brass and set with simulated or non-precious stones (glass, plastic)

Bridge Jewelry•Gold Filled•Vermeil (vermay)•Sterling Silver

History of Costume Jewelry• Prior to 1920’s costume

jewelry did not exist. Fine jewelry was worn for economic value; never to accessorize one’s clothing!– 1920’s Coco Chanel introduced

long faux strands of pearls– 1989 Barbara Bush increased

interest in faux pearls– 1996 Jackie Kennedy faux pearls

in auction

Faux Pearls

Coco Chanel Barbara Bush

Here they Are, the Pearls Jackie Kennedy Loved•

Jackie Kennedy loved to wear her "pearls" from KJL. There are 3 strands of huge 10mm beautiful cream pearls, all hand knotted, with a pretty diamante clasp. The shortest strand of the 3 is 18", so they are very easy to wear and what an impact! Day or night, this necklace is a stunner. You'll treasure it. The original sold at auction for over $200,000.00. Jackie's pearls, $155.00.

Marketing of Fine Jewelry• Many fine jewelry

departments in stores are leased from manufacturers because:1.A large amount of capital is

necessary2.Specialized staff is needed

to sell the jewelry

Industry Trends of Jewelry• When turtlenecks are in,

jewelry companies make long chains and pendants.

• When sleeveless dresses are in, bracelets become popular.

• When prints are popular jewelry becomes tailored.

• When solid colors are in, jewelry has more complex designs and colors

Handbags•Handbags can be made of

leather, fabric, beading, vinyl and canvas.–Classics: Coach, Dooney & Bourke

–Expensive: Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Gucci

Gloves•1900’s-1960’s glove

business flourished because women always wore gloves when they went out.

•1960’s saw the end of gloves as a requirement for a well-dressed woman

Millinery•Hats were very popular for

decades until:•1960’s women’s beehive

and bouffant hairstyles caused millinery sales to hit bottom

•1960’s-1970’s hats worn only on cold days

Millinery•National Millinery Institute

campaigned in an extensive effort to reverse the no hat trend.

•The effort failed because:–No amount of sales promotion can change the direction fashion is moving!!