42 september 01 (867k)

The Access Fund is proud to announce the publication ofa unique 96-page handbook providing the first-everoverview of climbing issues and management approaches inthe United States. Supported by a grant from RecreationalEquipment Inc. (REI), Climbing Management: A Guide toClimbing Issues and the Production of a ClimbingManagement Plan draws from successful models of climbingmanagement and local climbing organizations to create auseful tool for resource management planning.

The goal of this handbook is to share information andencourage greater consistency in climbing management.Land managers are currently drafting management plans atsuch popular climbing areas as New River Gorge, WestVirginia; Indian Creek River Corridor, Utah; Devils TowerNational Monument, Wyoming, and others. It will also pro-vide valuable guidance to organizations tackling climbingmanagement issues abroad.

Two years in the making, Climbing Management containsover 50 illustrations and previously unassembled informa-tion on topics such as climbing and cultural resource pro-tection; bouldering; practices for mitigating impacts to veg-etation, landowner liability; and education and outreach.The document also contains 30 pages of appendices and a10-page bibliography. A summary and table of contents canbe previewed at http://www.accessfund.org.

“Climbing Management was written to meet the tremen-dous demand for information on climbing and climbingmanagement issues from land managers, land owners andclimbing organizations in the US and increasingly fromoverseas,” said Kath Pyke, Access Fund Conservation

Director. “Given the growing popularity of climbing, it iscritical that effective management practices are establishedto protect unique cliff habitats while allowing for diverseclimbing experiences. We encourage land managers to reachfor this resource before drafting plans affecting the climb-ing environment.”

Copies of Climbing Management will be available to any-one working on climbing issues. A limited number of com-plimentary copies will be available for Access Fund regionalcoordinators, land managers, editorial reviewers, educatorsand local climbing organizations. Copies can be orderedfrom the Access Fund (mailto:[email protected]) for$20.00 (shipping and handling included). Check or creditcards are accepted.

• 2001 VOL • 42

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C L I M B I N G • C O N S E R V A T I O N • A C T I V I S M

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2000 ANNUAL REPORT INSIDE

SE

PT.

ACCESS FUND PUBLISHES NEWHANDBOOK TO SUPPORT RESOURCEPROTECTION & CLIMBING AREAS

ACCESS FUND LAUNCHES BOULDERING CAMPAIGN P. 24

v e r t i c a l t i m e s s e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 12

Jeremy Collins w

ww.godism

yrock.com

PAY-TO-PLAY? AN EXPLANATION OF THE

ACCESS FUND’S POSITION ON THE

RECREATION FEE DEMO PROGRAM

In 1996 Congress authorized theRecreation Fee Demonstration Program(“Fee Demo”) for a three-year test peri-od. The program has been extendedthree times for one-year periods and itcould be be extended again for fouryears in the Interior Appropriations Billfor 2002.

The program imposes fees on certainrecreational uses of lands managed bythe National Park Service, the UnitedStates Fish and Wildlife Service, theBureau of Land Management, theBureau of Reclamation, and the ForestService. These are not entrance feesfees for simply walking, paddling,climbing, fishing or biking on publiclands.

Also, in the Senate a bill has beenintroduced that would give federal landmanagers permanent authority toimpose new fees and raise existingfees.

For the past several years, the AFhas been working on this issue, sinceuse fees directly affect climbing access.The AF is a founding member of thePublic Access Coalition, and has joinedwith groups such as the Sierra Club andthe Outdoor Industry Association inpushing Congress to open up the usefees issue for public coment, to stopextending the “temporary” fee authori-ty through federal spending bills, andto provide more money for lands agen-cies to support recreation and naturalresource protection.

The Access Fund opposes use fees forpublic lands. Recreational, non-com-mercial access to the public domain,except for National Park Service lands,has always been free - it is part of ournational heritage. America’s nationalparks, forests, wildlife refuges, recre-ation areas and open spaces are thebirthright of every citizen and theopportunity to experience and enjoythese lands must be preserved.Congress should provide funding forthe necessary protection and mainte-nance of our public lands and theirrecreational facilities through annualbudget appropriations.

The Fee Demo program raises seriousquestions regarding societal impacts,funding priorities, forest economics,and industry subsidies.

The Access Fund does not opposepaying fees for developed facilities andservices (such as campgrounds), but wecannot support a “tollgate” charge forthe privilege of simple recreationalactivities that require little if anyinfrastructure.

The Access Fund recognizes thatmany federal land managers currentlyrely on funds from Fee Demo to sup-port infrastructure, maintenance andcritical resource management programs.However, the amount of money collect-ed through Fee Demo can easily be off-set by a small adjustment inCongressional spending priorities.

Before the American public isrequired to pay for the simple privilegeof parking a car on national forestlands, Congress should end all subsidiesfor timber harvesting, mining and graz-ing on public lands. The Access Fundbelieves we should not institutionalizefunding for public lands managementthrough use fees, but rather supportour land managers through income tax-derived funds already available in thefederal budget. Contact your legislators

now and tell them that you supportfull funding for our public lands – butthrough the appropriation processrather than through discriminatory andunnecessary use fees.

For more information, e-mail JasonKeith, Access Fund Policy Analyst [email protected].

v e r t i c a l t i m e s s e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 1 3

G O V E R N M E N T P O L I C Y P E R T A I N I N G T O C L I M B E R S

“The Access Fund opposes use fees for public

lands. Recreational, non-commercial access to

the public domain (except for National Park

Service lands) has always been free. It is

part of our national heritage. Contact your

legislator today to prevent the extension of

the Fee Demo program this fall!

Access Fund collection

SOUTHEAST

HORSE PENS 40 IS CLOSED(report provided by

http://www.seclimbers.org)On August 7th, The park at Horse

Pens 40, a prime bouldering area inAlabama, was officially closed. The clo-sure stems from issues unrelated toclimbing. There are interested partieswho are trying to lease the park andcontinue business as usual (climbingincluded), but nothing has been final-ized.

The park is now for sale for a whop-ping $978,000. Even so, park developerAdam Henry said he thinks the closureis not long-term and that the parkshould re-open by fall. The AccessFund is working with its RegionalCoordinators and the SoutheasternClimbers Coalition to restore access assoon as possible. Check

http://www.seclimbers.org andhttp:www.southernslopers.com forupdates on the park’s status and infor-mation on how you can help.

ROCKTOWN, GA TRAIL DAYOn May 5, 71 volunteers joined

together to complete trail work andmaintenance on Rocktown Trail onPigeon Mountain in LaFayette, Georgia.They collected trash at the overlookbluff and collected climbing schwagthrough give-a-ways and a raffle thatraised over $2900 for The Access Fund,he Southeastern Climbers Coalition,and the Jeff Wingo Scholarship Fund atBerry College!

SPEEDERS BEWAREROCKTOWN, GA

The DNR staff at Pigeon Mountain isconstantly receiving complaints aboutdrivers going too fast on Rocky Lane.The arrests that have been made inresponse to these complaints have allinvolved rock climbers. The postedspeed limit is 20 MPH. Remember, theclimbing opportunities in the WalkerCounty Jail are limited. The GeorgiaState Patrol is assisting with the traffic

control on this state property. Theyhave a blue and grey four-wheel-drivetruck with a new laser gun. Go slowwhen visiting Rocktown!

RED RIVER GORGE , KYThe Red River Gorge Climber’s

Coalition (RRGCC) is proud to host the“Signs-of-the-Times” Project in con-junction with the Access Fund’snationwide Adopt-a-Crag Day duringthe weekend of September 8-9. Climbervolunteers will be installing importantinformational signs at parking areas,trailheads and crags to help protectnatural and cultural resources at climb-ing areas in the Red River Gorge (RRG).

This project is intended to protectsensitive resources and inform visitorshow they can help. The signs explainthe need to avoid camping and camp-fire building in rock shelters and at thebase of climbing routes. Recent surveysby Forest Service personnel haverevealed that camping and fire buildingin rock shelters pose one of the great-est threats to sensitive resources at theRRG. This project is part of the RRGCC’scommitment to “promoting responsibleclimbing” through cooperation, initia-tive, and self-awareness.


71 volunteers completed trail work at Rocktown, Georgia and raised $2900 for the Access Fund,Southeastern Climbing Coalition, and the Jeff Wingo Scholarship Fund.

Kathryn Dodgen

5v e r t i c a l t i m e s s e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 1

NORTHEAST

WILLOUGHBY STATE FOREST,VERMONT LONG-RANGEMANAGEMENT PLAN INTHE WORKS(Report provided by Heather Hibbard,Vermont Regional Coorinator)

CRAG-VT members Alden Pellett, WillMayo, Jim Shimberg, and Access FundRegional Coordinator Heather Hibbardattended a June 13 public hearing heldby the Vermont Department of Forests,Parks and Recreation (DFPR) concern-ing the long range management planfor Willoughby State Forest. Accordingto Gary Sabourin, who is spearheadingthe planning effort, there has previous-ly been no representation from theclimbing community despite the well-known recreational use of Mt. Pisgah,Wheeler Mountain, and Mt. Hor forworld-class ice and rock climbing.

There is a high potential for climb-ing access to be constrained in thearea. CRAG-VT will work with the Stateof Vermont during this planningprocess and seek collaborative solu-tions that will preserve the history andintegrity of climbing in this area.

General comments regarding thestewardship of Willoughby State Forestwill be accepted throughout the plan-ning process. You can learn more by

logging on to:www.state.vt.us/anr/fpr/lands/willoughby

Climbers are urged to direct allinquires and comments to:

Gary Sabourin-State Lands ForesterVermont Department of Forests

Parks and Recreation1229 Portland Street, Suite 201

Saint Johnsbury, VT 05819

MIDWEST

BALANCED ROCK, WI(report submitted by Steve Frye, WisconsinRegional Coordinator)

The Access Fund/Wisconsin OutdoorAccess Balanced Rock Trail Project isnow complete. A $500 grant given tothe Friends of Devil’s Lake group willbe matched by the state of Wisconsinand FDLG for a total of $1500 to bedonated towards new signage through-out the park.

Last year a great group of climbersover 30 strong moved rocks the size ofsurfboards into place across a boulderscree slope just below Watermarks Walland the Balanced Rock Trail. TheConservation Corp trail ran directlybelow the climbing wall and led tosafety concerns and was a constantsource of irritation for climbers andhikers alike.

On June 16, WOA finished the pro-ject by reworking the steps. The“bypass” is already proving popular. Somuch Booty was donated by Wheeler’sCampground and Climbing Shop inBaraboo that everyone who volun-teered received something. Now thehikers will have their views of the lakeand the rocks

• continued on next page

On June 16, volunteers finished the Access Fund/Wisconsin Outdoor Access Balanced Rock TrailProject by reworking the steps. The project diverted the trail away from the Watermarks Wallto benefit hikers and climbers.

Eric Landman

as they pass and the climbers canbelay in peace.

Special thanks to Jim”Big Air Crash”Switzer who took time off from ridingand work to mason a great entrancewall off the new entrance from theexisting Balanced Rock Wall Trail.

Also, thanks to the volunteers whorisked life and limb finishing the trailin fine fashion.

WEST

LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANYON,UT QUARRY RESTORAT ION

Climbers are urged to avoid tram-pling revegetated slopes and to stayout of the restoration area in the vicin-ity of Gate Buttress in LittleCottonwood Canyon. Utah RegionalCoordinator Allen Sanderson has beenworking with the Church of Latter DaySaints and the county to create a for-mal trail system that will alleviate ero-sion problems. The new trail systemwill parallel the one on the south sideof the canyon with switchbacks toclimbing areas. Trail building is expect-ed to take several years.

MT. LEMMON, AZ(Report provided by James DeRoussel)

Climbers in the Tucson area haveexpressed concern that road construc-tion on the Mount Lemmon highwaywill close or permanently alter classic

areas such as Chihuahua Power andNew Wave Wall. Local activists JamesDeRoussel and Andrew Kornylak reportthat although many crags are close tothe highway, access should not beaffected permanently. While the cliffsmay be temporarily affected during theconstruction, the contractors andForest Service have agreed to take thenecessary steps to ensure post-

construction access. In some cases,access may actually be improved due toconstruction of additional parking pull-outs. Furthermore, the integrity andaesthetics of the rock should not beadversely affected in the long-term.

Construction is expected to continuethrough 2003. As individual phases ofconstruction are completed, volunteerswill be needed for access and trailimprovements. Inquiries and concernscan be e-mailed to [email protected].


Road construction on the Mount Lemmon,

highway in Arizona may close climbing at the

classic areas of Chihuahua Power and the New

Wave Wall.

Area Reports Continued...

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Adam Johnson “accesses” the Sundance Buttress, Lum

py Ridge, Colorado. photo: John Heisel

John

Hei

sel

HEISEL: Where are you from? Where were youbefore you moved to Boulder?KEITH: I grew up in Seattle, but have lived inWyoming, Utah, Arizona, and Colorado over thelast 20 years. I recently moved to Boulder fromGlenwood Springs, Colorado where I was work-ing as a lawyer in a small firm.HEISEL: What are you presently doing for the

Access Fund as Policy Analyst?KEITH: As Policy Analyst, I work on legislative, regulatory,and resource management planning issues. I’m responsiblefor building relationships, negotiating agreements, andadvocating on behalf of the Access Fund in all levels of landmanagement planning. Recently, I traveled to Castle RockRanch, near City of Rocks, and toured the property with theclimbing ranger there to discuss issues related to openingthe climbing area next spring. It’s also my role to initiatediscussions with environmental and recreation groups, andother advocacy organizations. Basically, I address any areasof conflict, mutual concern or agreement. This fall I’ll beworking in opposition of the Fee Demo program that maybe extended again. HEISEL: Wow, that’s a lot! I hope you can find some time tocrank. But more importantly, Jason, tell why do you climb?KEITH: It takes you everywhere – usually to the most beau-tiful places on the planet. It’s also very goal oriented, andlends itself to absolutely unique experiences. So muchclimbing; so little time… HEISEL: What was your motivation to work for the Fund?KEITH: I’ve been climbing for 20+ years – some of my firstoutdoor memories are following my Dad on these deathmarches up snowy volcanoes in the Cascades. Before borrow-ing a stack of cash for school, I worked as a mountain guide

in the Tetons and abroad forabout ten years. I then got amaster’s degree in public landspolicy and a law degree. My jobhere at the Access Fund lets mework to protect those climbingareas that I’ve used over theyears. HEISEL: Yeah, but what has theFund done for you or places youlike to climb at over the last 10years? KEITH: Where to start…theAccess Fund has worked to main-tain access at some of my

favorite cragging areas like the City of Rocks. It’s also mak-ing sure climbers have a voice in the planning processes atother climbing areas like Yosemite. The Fund has estab-lished a national presence on critical management issuespertaining to climbing, like fixed anchors, so land managerstake us seriously. Really important to me is the AccessFund’s dual mission of maintaining access to climbing whileworking to conserve the resource also. People should knowthat we’re not an access-at-all-costs organization. We workthe conservation side as much as the access side. HEISEL: Well then, why should people join?KEITH: Climbers should join the Access Fund to help sup-port our mission. I feel like a lot of people are passionateabout the issues the Access Fund deals with – joining givesthem a way to show they care about their crags.HEISEL: What can people do to help climbing access in theirarea?KEITH: Keep up on what’s going on, get involved in theprocess, and stay sensitive to the concerns of landowners. HEISEL: OK, enough about work, what is your favoriteclimb?!KEITH: Probably whatever the most recent good climb thatI’ve done. Three weeks ago, it was the the “Pitch of aHundred Hand Jams” on the Lost Temple Spire of the WindRiver Range in Wyoming. Hopefully there will be a newfavorite after this weekend!


W O R K I N G F O R Y O U R C L I M B I N G F U T U R E

Jason airs it out on the Good Book in Yosemite California.

Jason Keith collection

Jason Keith, Access FundPolicy Analyst

MEET THE NEW POLICY ANALYST JASON KEITH, INTERVIEW BY JOHN HEISEL

John

Hei

sel


2000 ANNUAL REPORT

From the President and Executive DirectorIn 1990, thanks to the vision of a few climber activists

and seed money from Yvon Chouinard, the Access Fundwas incorporated as a national, non-profit climbers advo-cacy group. Ten years later, we remain the only organiza-tion dedicated solely to preserving access for climbers,and to protecting the climbing environment.

In 2000, we built on our previous successes by spend-ing more than $600,000 on innovative projects, actions,and resources to support climbing throughout the UnitedStates. We provided more than $175,000 through ourClimbing Preservation Grants program for trail improve-ments, environmental restoration, scientific research, andclimber education. We fought for, and won, passage ofthe Castle Rock Ranch Acquisition Act, which preservesexciting new climbing opportunities near City of Rocks,Idaho.

We led a coalition of climbers serving on a federal advi-sory committee, convened by the US Forest Service, tohelp resolve the fixed anchors in wilderness issue. Wecontinued our fight to keep Hueco Tanks, perhaps theworld’s finest bouldering area, open to climbing, andoffered $100,000 to support climber education, trails, andresource protection there. We negotiated the acquisitionof Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma, which will be pre-served as a state park beginning in 2001. We prevailed inthe lawsuit we joined to save Yosemite’s venerable Camp4 from “redevelopment.”

On the Conservation front, we collaborated with NorthCarolina State University to publish an annotated bibliog-raphy of scientific research and studies related to climb-ing. We provided tens of thousands of dollars to preservearcheological resources at Red River Gorge (KY); forrestoration of vegetation in eroded areas of Indian Creek(UT); and for wildlife preservation efforts in Arizona,Idaho, North Carolina, and California. We hired a cul-tural resources specialist to help us work out positivesolutions to issues at Red River Gorge, Hueco Tanks,Cave Rock, Devils Tower, and the Bishop-area (CA)boulders.

We also increased our commitment of resources to pro-mote grassroots advocacy and local climber activism. Atareas like Cochise Stronghold (AZ), Indian Bluffs (IA),New River Gorge (WV), Cradle Rock (NJ), Joshua Tree(CA), Kootenai Canyon (MT), Woodbury (CT), andBoulder Canyon (CO), we provided funds and other sup-port for local initiatives to recover, improve, or preserveclimbing access.

The Access Fund’s past, and future, success is directlydependent on the help and generous support of our10,000+ members, corporate sponsors, and CommunityPartners. With the continued backing of these committedclimbers and companies, our impressive team of volun-teers, local climber activists, staff and board of directorswill do more – and better – things to protect climbingfreedoms and keep the mountains and crags healthy.

In the past ten years, we have accomplished a lot. Wehave much to be proud of. We are not finished yet,though… not by a long shot. Threats to access and theclimbing experience increase almost daily, but we arecommitted to prevailing in the challenges which lie ahead.There have never been more opportunities for the AccessFund to make a difference, and we have never been bet-ter prepared to do so.

Sincerely,

Becky Hall, President

Sam Davidson, Executive Director


2000 ANNUAL REPORT

Becky Hall Sam Davidson

PresidentMichael KennedyVice President

Phil PowersSecretaryBecky HallTreasurerRob Raker

Board of DirectorsConrad AnkerChris Archer

Mia Axon Jeff Bowman Truly Bracken

Ken ClineScott Cosgrove

Russ CluneMalcolm Daly

Paul Diefenderfer Andy Fitz

Charlotte Fox Mark Kroese

Larry Gustafson Eric Hobday Goose KearseBob Margulis Reese Martin

Chris McNamara

Honorary Board Member & FounderArmando Menocal

Sally Moser Executive Director

Sam DavidsonSenior Policy Analyst

Kath PykeConservation Director

Rick Thompson/Shawn Tierney Access&Acquisitions Director

Susy LevinDevelopment Director

Aarik EberhardtAssistant Development Director

Don Silver/John HeiselPublications Director

Heather Clark Events Coordinator

Kerry CowanOffice Manager


2000 Board ofDirectors

2000 Staff


Public Policy1. Served on special committee to help US Forest Servicemake new policy on use of fixed anchors in Wilderness.

2. Led coalition of climbers’ groups in continuing negotia-tions with environmentalists and government officials overclimbing in Wilderness.

3. Successfully worked with Congress and The ConservationFund to pass The Castle Rock Ranch Acquisition Act – pre-serves exciting new climbing opportunities near City ofRocks, ID.

4. Participated in landmark government task force todevelop guidelines for managing visitor capacity on publiclands.

5. Mt. Hood, OR. Convinced Mt. Hood National Forest tochange wilderness management plan—would have reducedaccess to most popular climbing routes by more than 90%.

6. Appealed initial ruling on lawsuit over closure of TwinSisters at City of Rocks National Reserve, ID.

7. Red River Gorge, KY. Successfully negotiated withForest Service to update management guidelines for climb-ing.

8. Continued to work with other recreation advocacygroups to oppose passage of permanent use fee legislation.

9. Worked with Congress and public lands agencies to raisefunding in the federal budget for recreation/resource pro-tection.

10. Provided comments on landmark proposal to set aside60 million acres of national forest land as permanent road-less areas.

11. Hired cultural resource specialist to find positive solu-tions to protect archeological and historic values at RedRiver Gorge (KY), Hueco Tanks (TX), Cave Rock (NV), HappyBoulders (CA), and other climbing areas.

12. Hueco Tanks, TX. Offered $100,000 grant to TexasParks & Wildlife Dept. for resource protection, trail improve-ments, and climber education. Continuing to work for eas-ing of restrictions through site-specific protection of arche-ological resources.

13. Provided feedback to Congress during legislation tocompel a study of rescue cost recovery.

14. Submitted testimony for Congressional committeehearings on use fees and wilderness issues.

15. Submitted comments on the US Forest Service’s newRecreation Agenda, which applies to climbing areas such asTahquitz and Suicide Rocks (CA), the Mt. Lemmon highwaycrags (AZ), Jackson Falls (IL), Rumney (NH), and Mt. Hood(OR).

Areas Where Access Was Restored, Preserved or Where OurWork Continues

16. Pinnacle Peak, AZ. Worked with City of Scottsdale todevelop climbing policy; continued to advocate for officialreopening of the area.

17. Oak Creek Overlook, AZ. Negotiated with CoconinoNational Forest to reopen closed section of popular cragnear Sedona.

18. Red River Gorge, KY. Helped Red River Gorge ClimbersCoalition develop Memorandum of Understanding with theForest Service to consult on climbing policy, climber educa-tion, and resource protection efforts.

19. Rumbling Bald, NC. Continued to work on preservingaccess, lately threatened by illegal camping at the parkingarea.

20. Golden Cliffs, CO. Continued to make improvements forclimbing and public access.

21. Madrone Wall, OR. Continued to support local climbersin fight to save this area from quarrying.

22. Woodbury, CT. Worked with Ragged MountainFoundation to negotiate with private landowner over theaccess trail.

23. Lava Tube Caves, near Bend, OR — Worked with newlyformed group, Oregon Climbers Coalition, and the ForestService over resource concerns and access arrangements forforthcoming Environmental Impact Statement.

Land Management and Planning

24. Obed River, TN. Provided comments on proposedclimbing management plan for this prime Sandstone Beltclimbing area.

25. Eastern Sierra Wilderness Areas. Provided commentson revised environmental impact statement managementchanges in three wilderness areas including: Mt. Whitney,the Palisades, and the Minarets.

26. Indian Creek, UT. Worked with BLM and NatureConservancy to begin development of RecreationManagement Plan for Indian Creek Resource Area — willdeal with camping, parking, and human waste issues.

27. Yosemite National Park, CA. Provided comments onYosemite Valley Plan and Merced River Plan – still workingclosely with Park Service to protect Camp 4, preserve camp-ing opportunities, ensure climbers’ transportation, andparking needs are met.

28. Castle Rock State Park, CA. Continued helping to pre-pare climbing management plan and visitor informationbrochure.

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2200000050 WAYS ACCESS FUND PARTNERSHIPS MADE A DIFFERENCE LAST YEAR


29. Big South Fork National River, TN. Continued to corre-spond with National Park Service as General ManagementPlan is prepared.

30. Red Rocks, NV. Worked with Climbers Liaison Councilto enter into Memorandum of Understanding with theBureau of Land Management — will help review proposedroutes, and support resource protection goals.

31. Cave Rock, NV. Provided comments to the US ForestService on an Environmental Assessment for new manage-ment policy for Cave Rock – successfully kept this areaopen to climbing and continued to seek compromise overNative American issues.

32. Mojave National Preserve, CA. Continued to work withNational Park Service to finalize management direction forClark Mountain.

33. New River Gorge, WV. Continued working directly withNational Park Service planners on preparation of climbingmanagement plan.

34. Joshua Tree National Park, CA. Supported climber rep-resentation on park’s advisory council and worked withNational Park Service to develop new route protocol.

35. Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. Helped localclimbers respond to proposed changes to parking/access forLumpy Ridge.

Conservation Program

36. Worked with North Carolina State University to pub-lish annotated bibliography of scientific research andagency studies related to climbing.

37. Provided $10,000 grant to the Red River GorgeClimbers Coalition and the Daniel Boone National Forest tostudy and preserve archeological resources.

38. Pawtuckaway State Park, NH - $3900 grant toUniversity of New Hampshire Outdoor education program fortrails, signs, and brochure.

39. Continued working with resource managers and acade-mics to prepare ‘Climbing Management’ - a key policy docu-ment to help with local climbing plans, and climbing issues.

40. Donnelly Canyon, Indian Creek, UT$2000 to Rocky Mountain Field Institute for vegetationrestoration using transplants and seeding techniques withPrescott College.

41. Listing of Year 2000 seasonal climbing restrictionsaround the U.S. on the Access Fund website and in thenewsletter.

42. Black Cliffs, near Boise, ID - $1800 grant to BoiseClimbers Alliance for an education outreach project that

included a site management plan, brochures, and signs.

43. Flagstaff Mountain, CO. Project with Flatirons ClimbingCouncil and City of Boulder Mountain Parks to protect soilsand vegetation from erosion.

44. Linville Gorge, NC - $2,000 to North Carolina WildlifeResources Commission for monitoring peregrine nest sites.

Support For Grassroots Advocacy and Climber Education

45. Cochise Stronghold, AZ — Grant to Southern ArizonaClimbers Coalition to assist with 4th year of annual pere-grine monitoring project. The data allowed early lifting ofrestrictions at four outlying climbing areas.

46. Indian Bluffs, IA. Worked with Eastern Iowa ClimbersCoalition to respond to threat of removal of climbinganchors and wildlife concerns.

47. Supported formation of Climbers Alliance of Mid-Missouri, dedicated to honoring local traditions, promotingsafe climbing practices, and working with private landown-ers on access.

48. Cradle Rock, NJ. Worked with New Jersey ClimbersCoalition to advance Preserve Cradle Rock Initiative—willsave access through acquisition and easements.

49. Joshua Tree, CA. Provided $5000 grant to help Friendsof Joshua Tree publish newsletter and outreach to climbers.

Land Acquisitions50. Quartz Mountain, OK. The Access Fund workedtogether with the Oklahoma Tourism and RecreationDepartment, Witchita Mountains Climbers Coalition andOklahoma State Parks system to acquire Baldy Point and addit to the Quartz Mountain State Park. The acquisition willpreserve climbing at Baldy Point, which offers some of thefinest climbing between the Mississippi River and RockyMountains. The Witchita Mountains Climbers Coalition raisedmore than $16,000 to support the acquisition.

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Quartz Mountain (Baldy Point), Oklahoma

Marion H

utchison

50 WAYS ACCESS FUND PARTNERSHIPS MADE A DIFFERENCE LAST YEAR

9v e r t i c a l t i m e s s e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 1 13

side of the cliff.

•Wild Iris, WY- Made general improvements to existingtrail including water bars and cliff base stabilization andrestoration at OK Corral and Main Wall.

•Shelf Road, CO- Completed a comprehensive trail systemconnecting the Cactus Cliff, the Gym, the Cash Wall and theVault to the newly built day parking area.

•New River Gorge, W.V.- In partnership with NPS,designed and finished trial work, assisted with funding for atool cache.

•Flagstaff, CO- In partnership with Boulder MountainParks, completed an extensive restoration project at a popu-lar bouldering area.

•Wichita Wildlife Refuge, OK- Maintenance and repairwork of existing Narrows Trail, construction of new trail.

The Access Fund’s Regional Coordinator Network is the cor-nerstone of our support for grassroots climber activism and isone of our primary resources utilized in keeping climbing areasopen. As knowledgeable sources of information on access-relat-ed issues, Regional Coordinators are the Access Fund’s princi-pal liaisons to local areas and represent climbers’ interests onboth public and private lands. In addition, RegionalCoordinators can provide expertise on a wealth of related sub-jects, from organizing conservation or trail-building projects tothe acquisition of a threatened climbing area.

The dedicated volunteers who serve as RegionalCoordinators are committed to providing climbers with solu-tions that will preserve America’s diverse climbing resources forfuture generations.

When access issues arise in your area, please contact yourregional coordinator. For general information, please call ShawnTierney, Access & Acquisitions Director, at 303.545.6772 ext.105 or Shannon Stuart-Smith, Action Committee Chair, at859.269.8796.

Alaska - Position OpenArizona - Kerry Nodal California - Mike Brown, Paul Minault Colorado - Jim Ghiselli, Tod Anderson, Dave Turner, Steve Johnson, Rick ThompsonConnecticut - Jeff SargeantGeorgia - Chris Watford

Hawaii - Terry KerbyIdaho - Michael LanzaIllinois - Eric UlnerIowa - Evan FalesKentucky - Shannon Stuart-SmithWestern KY & TN - Eman LaCosteMassachusetts - Al Rubin, Richard DoucetteMinnesota - David PagelMissouri - Barry GilbertMontana - Steve Porcella, Nevada - Position OpenNew Mexico - Eric Radack, Bryan PlettaNew Jersey - Jeff HoltNew York - Russ CluneNorth Carolina - Aram AttarianOklahoma - Marion HutchisonOregon - Ian Caldwell, Jim AngellPennsylvania - Lonny Whitcomb, Bob ValueSouth Carolina - Sean CobournTennessee - Frank HarveyTexas - Position OpenUtah - Allen Sanderson, Jason Stevens Vermont - Heather HibbardVirginia - Dusty WismathWashington - Andy FitzWest Virginia - Gene KistlerWisconsin - Steve FryeWyoming - Position Open

Since 1990, the Access Fund has financed, sponsored, andorganized cooperative trail projects from coast to coast, pri-marily through our Climbing Preservation Grants Program.The projects completed under this program are the result ofthe significant community support for the Access Fund’sefforts to keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbingenvironment. The spirit in which we work in partnership toaccomplish these projects embodies one of the Access Fund'score values: community-based stewardship. The projectsincluded the following:

•Tieton River, WA- Designed and built a sustainable trailsystem to replace existing social trails, installed rock retainingwalls at key cliff base areas to address erosion problems.

•Horsetooth Reservoir, CO- Completed restoration workat Rotary Park bouldering area.

•Sinks Canyon, WY- In partnership with the BLM, fin-ished building 2,500 feet of trail to provide access to the west

2000 National Trails Initiative

Regional Coordinator Action Network


FundingSource ofFunds

These are unaudited figures. For our current audited financial statement, please contact Sam Davidson, Executive Director at 303.545.6772 ext. 101.

Use of FundsNational Policy,Acquisitions &

Special Programs44.6 %

Fundraising andAdministrative

14.7%

Climber Outreach,Advocacy &

Communication28.4 %

Climber Education& Conservation

12.3 %

Grants7 %

Other2 %

Outreach5 %

Corporate19 %

Individual, Foundationand Organization Support

67%

* Stock* Bequest

* Charitable Gift Annuity* Pooled Income Fund

If your gift is $10,000 or more, you may designate it for one of the following categories: Acquisitions, Advocacy &Activism, Membership,Trails, Education, Climbing Preservation Projects or Unrestricted. For more information on

any of these options, contact Heather Clark in the Access Fund office at 303.545.6772, ext. 100.

The Access Fund. Your climbing future.

Help us conserve and preserve climbing bygiving a gift to the Access Fund.


The climbing gyms, retail stores, localclimbing organizations, guiding ser-vices, and outdoor programs in theCommunity Partnership Program pro-mote the Access Fund’s mission ofkeeping climbing areas open and con-serving the climbing environment. Ashosts of letter-writing campaigns,adopt-a-crag events, trail projects,membership promotions and otherfundraising events, Access Fund part-ners complement the Fund’s conserva-tion objectives, educational outreachand grassroots advocacy. At the sametime, the Access Fund provides theclimbing community with formal inputregarding policy and management ofclimbing resources, a voice inCongress, Climbing PreservationGrants and support for local clean-ups,climbing competitions and slide shows.Community Partners for 2000: Guides -$1,000+, First Ascenders-$500 - $999,Leaders-$250 - $499,Friends- $100 -$249, Supporters-$50-$99,

Guides - $1,000+Berkeley Ironworks - Berkeley, CAPhoenix Rock Gym - Tempe, AZ

Touchstone Climbing, Inc. - Berkeley,CA

First Ascenders - $500 - $999Appalachian Mountain Guides, Inc. -

Vilas, NCArizona Mountaineering Club-

Phoenix, AZMission Cliffs - San Francisco, CA

Mountain Sports-Boulder, COMountain Sports-Crossroads -

Boulder, COThe Mountaineer - Keene Valley, NY

PATC Mountainering Section - Vienna,VA

Puget Sound REI Stores-Seattle, WA

Leaders - $250 - $499AMC-NY Chapter Mountaineering

Committee-Brooklyn, NYHigh and Wild Mountain Guides -

Moab, UTHurst Sports Center - St. George, UT

New Belgium Brewing Co. - Fort Collins, CO

Pacific Edge-Santa Cruz, CAPetra Rock Climbing Gym-

Springfield, MOPhiladelphia Rock Gym-Oaks, PARim of the World Climbing Club-

Running Springs, CARok Haus Indoor Climbing Gym-

Lafayette, LASanctuary Rock Gym-Sand City, CASolid Rock Sports - Shorewood, WI

Spokane Mountaineers-Spokane, WAStone Gardens-Seattle, WA

Summit Cayon Mountaineering -Glenwood Springs, CO

Sunlight Sports-Cody , WYSun & Ski Sports - Tulsa, OK

Teton Mountaineering-Jackson, WYTexas Mountaineers - Arlington, TX

Vertical World-Seattle, WA

Friends - $100 - $2498000 Meter Club Members of S.

California, San Clemente, CAACC Rock Climbing Club-

Queensbury, NYAction Committee for Eldorado-

Eldorado Springs, COAdventure Treks, Inc. - Flat Rock, NC

Alpine Ascents International -Seattle, WA

Arizona Climbing and AdventureSchool - Carefree, AZ

Aspen Alpine Guides, Inc.-Aspen, COAtlanta Rocks! -Doraville, GA

Avery Brewing Company-Boulder, COBarrel Mountaineering-Bozeman, MT

Black Dome Mountain Sports -Asheville, NC

Blue Star Camps - Hendersonville, NCBoulder Mountaineering School-

Boulder, COCA Polytechnic Outings- PolyEscapes-San Luis Obispo, CACall of the Wild-Roswell, GA

Camp High Rocks - Cedar Mountain, NC

Carolina Adventures - Chapel Hill, NCChicago Mountaineering Club-

Chicago, ILCityRock Gym-Emeryville, CAClass 5 Fitness-San Rafael, CA

Cleveland Rock Gym - Cleveland, OHColgate University Outdoor Education

Hamilton, NYColorado Mountain Club - Golden, CO

Cragmont Climbing Club - Berkeley, CA

CU Outdoor Program - Boulder, CO

2000 Community Partnership Program

15

Mar

k W

eber


Earth Games, LLC-San Clemente, CAErehwon Mountain Outfitter-

Schaumburg, ILExplorer’s Club of Pittsburgh-

Pittsburgh, PAExum Mountain Guides - Moose, WY

Footsloggers - Boone, NC Hamilton College-Clinton, NYKansas City Climbing Club -

Raytown, MOK.E. Adventure Travel-Aspen, CO

Kent Mountain Adventure Center, Inc.Estes Park, CO

Las Vegas Climber’s Liasion Council -Las Vegas, NV

Lost River Sports - Hailey, IDMemphis Mountaineers-Memphis, TN

Mission Cliffs-San Francisco, CAMoosely Seconds-Jackson, WY

Mountain Chalet - Colorado Springs, CO

Mountain Dreams International, Inc-Pittsburgh, PA

MTU Ridge Roamers - Houghton, MINorth Summit Climbing Gym-

Wind Gap, PANU Climbing Club-Lincoln, NE

Peregrine Outfitters-Williston, VTPortland Rock Gym - Portland, OR Prairie Walls, Inc-Rochester, MN

REI-Phoenix, AZRhino Productions-Tempe, AZ

Shasta Mountain Guides -Mount Shasta, CA

Sierra Mountain Center-Bishop, CASkinny Skis-Jackson, WY

Southern Oregon Climbing Club-Ashland, OR

Stone Age - Manchester, CTStone Age Climbing Gym, Inc-

Albuquerque, NMStonehenge-Modesto, CA

Talus Climbing Service - Boulder, COTelluride Mountain Club-Telluride, COTexas Mountain Raiders-Houston, TX

The Mountaineers-Seattle, WAUniversity of Missouri Climbnig Club -

Columbia, MOUpper Limits-Bloomington, IL

Wilderness Exchange - Berkeley, CAWilson’s Eastside Sports-Bishop, CAX-TREME Rock Climbing Center-

Miami, FL

Supporters - $50-$99Alpine Club of Canada- Toronto, ON

Aspire Adventures-Austin, TXATMAS-Fryeburg, ME

BaseCamp USA - Miami Beach, FLBlackhole Climbing - Clarksville, TNBlue Ridge Mountaineering Assn. -

Roanoke, VABlue Ridge Outdoors-Blacksburg, VABlue Ridge Outdoors-Fayetteville, WV

Blue Ridge Outdoors-Roanoke, VABoston Rock Gym-Woburn, MA

Bugaboo Mountain Sports -Santa Cruz, CA

Campmor - Paramus, NJCASBC - Vancouver, BC

Climb Aloha - Honolulu, HIClimbers Alliance of Mid-Missour -

Columbia, MOClimbers at Georgia Tech-Atlanta, GA

CLIMBMAX - Ashevile, NCClimb North -Wexford, PAClimb Time of Cincinnati -

Cincinnati, OHColby Moutaineering Club -

Waterville, MECross Country Connection -

Laramie, WYCU Alpine Club - Boulder, COErehwon Mountain Outfitter -

Prospect Heights, ILExpeditions Unlimited - Wheaton, IL

GearExpress.com - Utica, ILHakan Thyr Climbing Books -

Brighton, MAHarborside Athletic Club -

Portsmouth, NHHigher Ground Rock Climbing Centre-

Grand Rapids, MIIndiana State University -

Terre Haute, INInner Wall - New Paltz, NY

Liquid Moon Sports -Olympic Valley, CA

Long Rock Adventures -

Tahoe Paradise, CAMaine Rock Gym, Portland-ME

Mazamas-Portland, ORMountain Adventure Seminars -

Bear Valley, CAMountain Adventure Tours -

Scaly Mountain, NCMountain Adventure Unlimited -

Malibu, CAMountain Experience-Lakewood, WA

Mountain High, Inc-Wichita, KSMountain Ventures - Atlanta, GA

New Heights Rock Gym - Tulsa, OKNew Trier Climbing Club -

Winnetka, ILNiagara Climbing Center -

North Tonawanda, NYNomad, Inc-Roanoke, VA

North Idaho Climbing Club -Sandpoint, ID

North Wall, Inc - Crystal Lake, ILOKC Rocks - Arcadia, OK

Prime Climb Climbing Gym-Wallingford, CT

Ramsey Outdoor Store - Paramus, NJRock and Snow, Inc - New Paltz, NY

Rock Creek Outfitters - Chattanooga, TN

Rocknasium - Davis, CASanta Fe Climbing Gym - Santa Fe,

NMShe Climbs, Inc-Boulder, CO

Sky’s The Limit-Red Rocks, NVSouthwest Climbing Resource -

Santa Fe, NMStone Works Climbing Gym, Inc-

Carrollton, TXTexas Rock Gym-Houston, TX

The Backpackers Shop - Sheffield Village, OH

The Bag and Pack Shop-Vail, COThe Peak Climbing Gym-Casper, WY

The Rock Barn-Plymouth, NHVenture Crew 5.10 - Amarillo, TX

Vertical Endeavors-Saint Paul, MNVertical Hold-San Diego, CA

Vertical Pursuits - Duluth, MNVertical Relief Rock Gym -

Flagstaff, AZWhitman College Outing Program -

Walla Walla, WAYMCA Prescott - Prescott, AZ

Partnership Program continued

16


Above the CloudsJon Krakauer

Thomas Isaacson

Granite $9,999–$2,500Rick & Dee Booth

Robert & Ellen Hostetler

Michael Kennedy

Richard Ringoen

Leon & Peggy Sharyon

The Lightner Sams Foundation of

Wyoming, Inc.

Dorcas Miller & Ben Townsend

Limestone $2,499–$1,000Samuel Adams

Drew Allan

Jim Angell

Bob Barron

Kenneth Cline

Sean Cobourn

Bill Cosgrove

Dan Crouse

Paul Diefenderfer

Timothy Forbes

John French

Marilyn Geninatti

Kimberly Knox

Mark Kroese

Tom, Elke & Chris Lindner

Roger Linfield

Chuck Lohn

Ben Maddox

Charlotte Fox & Reese Martin

Burton Moomaw

Hal Murray, Jr.

Robert Raker

Gregory Schaffer

Tony Scott

George Shaw

Michael Sherwin

Wayne Simon

Georgie Stanley, II

Tyler Vogt

Christopher Walker

Gayle Gordon & Rob Wesson

Quartzite $999–$500Jeff Altherr & Teresa Alder

Drew Allan

Jim Angell

Mary Beatty

John Burbidge

Rob Connoley

Jim Curl

Steve & Amy DeWeese

Diane Escobar

Barry Gavrich

David Goeddel

Edmund Grainger, III

David Green

Larry Gustafson

Ed & Kathe Henry

David Hopp

Peter Jackson

Loren Jahn

Mike Jenner

Pete King

Robert Koehnen

Mike Kurinij

Michael Lau

Randy Leavitt

John Lee

George II Lowe III, Elizabeth Regan Lowe

Sandy Mailliard

Brent Manning

Drew McRoberts

Jean Miller

Rob Moellering

Allan Nadel

Allen Peery

Phyllis Ponte

Phil Powers

Keith Rampmeier

Thomas Rihimaki

Charles Schreck

Evan Siddall

Amy Simper

Ray Snead

Susan Sosin

Jack Staffa

Allen Steck

Roger Taylor

Richard Tyler

Nick Van Driel

Ken Wagers

Chris Wegener

Doug Wilson

Sandstone $499-$250Rebecca Abernathy

Joel Ager

Gary Allen

Ron & Amy Ambrose

Michael Anderson

James Ansara

Cheri Asher

Martin Avidan

Mia Axon

Spike Bascou

David Benson

17

2000 Summit CLUBTHE SUMMIT CLUB IS COMPOSED OF INDIVIDUALS WHO CONTRIBUTED $250+ TO THE ACCESS FUND IN 1999

Mar

k W

eber


Bill Berkley

Tony Berlier

John Bicknell

John Bliss

Gary Bocarde

Jim Boyd

Rich Branson

Glen Brazell

Patrick Brennan

Dennis Burns

Clayton Caldwell

Jay Smith & Kitty Calhoun

Steven Capps

Hillary Cartimandua-Emer

Bob & Kirstin Cenk

Paul Certa

Stephen Cole

Robert Craig, CPA

Eugene Dammel

Denise Danielson

D. Kirk Davidson

Scott Davis

George R. Carr Jr. & Amy Derbyshire

Laura Domoto

Martha & Richard Draves

Thomas Duke

Sandy & Gale Dunlap

James Edwards

John Ehrig

Maria Enrione

Lisa & Phil Ensign

Rich Fettke

Sam Finne

Charlie Fowler

James Frank

Donna Garoutte

Kenny Gasch

Robert & Mary Gerstein

Jim Ghiselli

Chuck Gorman

Phil & Becky Gruber

Yosh & John Haggerty

Robert Hall

Becky Hall

Maureen Hamilton

Rick Hanheide

Allan Hass

Jan Michael Heinemann

Josh Hess-Yoder

Duncan Highsmith

Chris Hill

Margaret Judith Hillenbrand

Bert Honea

Gregory Huff

Bradley Huffman

Hume Family

Ross & Susan Humphreys

Jason Hurst

Loren Jahn

Rich Johnston

Chris Jones

Dann Kelehan

Robert Ryne & Elizabeth Kelly

James Kennedy

Richard Kent

John & Kim Kent

Steve Knutson

Jim LaRue

Marc Leblond

Peter Pryde & Suzanne Lee

Daniel Leu

Dougald MacDonald

Eva Gurne & Anthony Mannina

Steven Markusen

John Matthews

Jim Mattson, Jr

Greg McAuliffe

J. Bruce McCubbrey

David McGavran

David McIlrath

Jason Mikos

Jay Moldow

Mark & Steve Monti

Robert & Barb Moody

David Moore

Brian Moore

Bernard Moret

Wally Naylor

Jeffrey Newsom

Claire Nolan

Mia Jensen & Sean O’Malley

Bryan O’Sullivan

Bob Pace

Kevin, Deven & Tejal Parikh-Carmichael

James Pearre

Allen Peery

Rockie Pennington

John Prentice

Lisa Foss & Robert Price

Dorothea Reilly

Robert Reynolds

Nicholas Rhind

Alfred Riddle

Thomas Riihimaki

David Rikert

Greg & Diana Rogers

Peggy Sayer

Robert Schaller, Jr.

Elan Schultz

Sharon Scott

Mattie Sheafor

Audrey Sheridan

Jay & Andrea Shotwell

John Sirois

Anne Smith

Tom Story

Matthew Stover

Barry Sullivan

Avon Swofford

John Taladay

Kent, Laura, & Cassandra Taylor

Donald Thomas

Susan Candee & Richard Tocher

James Tucker, III

Lein Tung

Cynthia Tyler

Jutta Ulrich

William Viner & Rebecca Upham

Mark Urban

Terry Vest

Richard Vlamynck

Sarah & Randy Vogel

John Welton

Daniel White

Walt & Suzy Wilkinson

Denise & Jean Wilks

Damon Williams

T. Jon Williams

Colleen Willoughby

Bill Zaumen

Peter & Rebecca Zurcher

2000 Summit CLUB continued

18

Diamond Partners $20,000+•Black Diamond Equipment

Bibler/Scarpa

•Climbing •Galyan’s

•REI•Rock & Ice

•The North Face/A5

Platinum Plus Partners $15,000+•Hothouse Design & Advertising•Omega Pacific Mountaineering

Gold Plus Partners $7,500+

•Eagle Creek•Patagonia

•Polartec/Malden Mills

Gold Partners $5,000+•Campmor•Five.Ten

•La Sportiva•Mammut•Nalgene

•Petzl America•Trango USA &

Stonewear Designs

Silver Partners 2,500+•Advanced Base Camp

•BlueWater•Boreal

•Boulder Rock Club•Clif Bar

•Climb High•Corplan

•Crazy Creek Products•Entre Prises USA•Falcon Publishing

•Lowe Alpine Systems•Metolius

•Maxim Ropes•Prana

•Weathered Stone

Major Partners 1,000+•Altrec.com

•American Bouldering Series•Arc’teryx

•Cascade Designs•Cordless

•Gregory Mountain Products•Hi-Tec Sports

•Jansport•Marmot

•Misty Mountain Threadworks•Mountain Gear

•Mountain Hardwear

•Mountainzone.com•New Belgium Brewing Company

•Outside•Outdoor Research

•Phoenix Bouldering Comp•Phoenix Rock Gym

•PMI•PowerBar

•P-uR•Royal Robbins•Sport Chalet•Sterling Rope

•Wild Country USA•Yates Gear

Contributing Partners $500+•All Terrain

•Alpine Ascents International•American Ref-fuel

•Bearing Images•Cloudveil Mountain Works

•Excalibur DMM•Free West Rock Guides•Gravity Kills Company

•Greischar Dungan Architects•Jackson Hole

Mountain Guides•Jagged Edge Mountain Gear

•Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School

•Moonstone•Mountain Madness

•Mountain Tools•MountainWoman.com

•Nicros•Planet Outdoors.com

•Ropegun•Seattle Manufacturing

Corporation

•Sickle Climbing•Sierra Designs

•Soma Entertainment•Stone Age Climbing•Sun & Ski Sports •TellurideGear.com

•Ushba Mountain Works•Verve

•XDOGS.COM•ZuluSports.com

Media Partners•Apex•Blue

•Elevation•Freeskier

•Indoor Gym Climber

11v e r t i c a l t i m e s s e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 1 19

2000 Corporate PARTNERS

ACCESS FUND GRANTS PROGRAMGRANTS AWARDED IN THIRD CYCLE – JULY2001

The Access Fund utilizes your membership dollarsto fund projects that preserve or enhance climbingopportunities and conserve the climbing environ-ment. Thus far in 2001, the AF has awarded$46,386 to applicants nationwide.

Grants approved for the third funding cycle 2001 totaled$9,480 and were distributed to support five separate pro-jects by local climbing organizations, public agencies, andconservation groups. Education and survey projects wereprominent in this grants cycle.

1. INTERPRET IVE S IGNS TO HIGHL IGHT ROCK ARTAT HUECO TANKS STATE PARK, TX.

$3,530.00 to Hueco Tanks State Park to support an edu-cation project highlighting cultural resource values, rock artand climbing at the State Park. Two outdoor exhibits willbe located in the North Mountain Table Area - one on theEnd Loop Boulder area and the other on the “front side”cliffs. The target audience will be climbers and the generalpark visitor. The Access Fund will be working closely withthe State Park over this project.

2. EDUCAT ION BROCHURE AND STUDY ON GROUPUSE WITH NORTH CAROL INA STATE PARKS &RECREAT ION, NC.

$1,100 to Aram Attarian, President of Carolina ClimbersCoalition and Access Fund regional representative, for twoprojects. The first will entail producing a climbing educa-tion brochure for distribution at North Carolina State Parks.The second focuses on group use at Crowders State Park andwill lead to management guidelines on mitigating andreducing impacts. Both these projects build on a successfulpartnership between NC State Parks and Carolina ClimberCoalition in addressing climbing management issues state-wide.

3. PORTABLE TO ILE T AT JACKS CANYON, AZ.$1,250.00 to Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition to sup-

port 12 months of maintenance costs for a portable toilet atthe popular sport climbing area, Jacks Canyon. This grantprovides interim funding while local climbing groups workwith Coconino National Forest over installation of a perma-nent vault toilet facility which will address visitor needs inthe long term.

4. GROUND RESTORAT ION PROJECT AT THE BASEOF LOOKING GLASS , NC.

$2,500.00 to a project coordinated by Brandon Calloway,NC Outward Bound School to carry out ground stabilizationand restoration work at the base of the three popularroutes, The Nose, Peregrine and Sundial Crack on LookingGlass. Pisgah National Forest will be carrying out an envi-ronmental assessment to determine scope and suitablematerials for the project before work proceeds. The projectwas originally planned as a 2001 Adopt-a-crag Access Fundproject, but will be extended into Spring 2002 while furtherplanning is undertaken.

5. SURVEY OF LOCAL RES IDENTS TO ASSESS AT T I -TUDES TOWARDS CL IMBING AT GIBRALTAR ROCK,WI.

$1,100.00 to Wisconsin Outdoor Access for a survey oflocal residents to better understand attitudes towards climb-ing at the currently closed site in Richmond Memorial Park( also known to climbers as Gibraltar Rock). This meets arequest from Columbia County Highways Department whorequire this data as part of their requirements for reconsid-ering access. The restoration of access to Gibraltar Rock hasbeen the focus of local group, Wisconsin Outdoor Access,since the closure of the site in 1995.


Looking Glass Rock, North Carolina

John Heisel

• $4461 - 18th Annual Phoenix BoulderingContest

• $3185 International Climbers Festival,Lander, WY

• $1950 Kickin Access 2001 Kurt Smithslide show EMS, The Rock Barn-Rhinoceros

Mountain Guides, Plymouth, NH

• $1690 Kickin Access 2001 slide showwith Kurt Smith, Neptune Mountaineering,

Boulder, CO

• $1145 Kickin Access 2001 slide showwith Kurt Smith, Sport Climbing Center,

Colorado Springs, CO

• $1130 6th Annual Rocktown Trail Days,The Challenge Rock Climbing School &

Atlanta Climbers Coalition, PigeonMountain, GA

• $1011 4th Annual AdventurePhotography slide show with Dan Bailey,

Fort Collins, CO

• $805 Red River Gorge, KY-Kickin Access2001 Kurt Smith slide show, Miguels

• $785 Foster Falls Climb Fest 2001,Southeastern Climbers Coalition

• $752 Access Fund Boudering Blow Out,Upper Limits, Bloomington, IL

• $630 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, Blue Ridge Outdoors, New

River Gorge, WV

• $540 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, Rock and Snow, New Paltz, NY

• $500 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, Call of the Wild, Roswell, GA

• $465 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, SportRock Climbing Center,

Alexandria, VA

• $465 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, Urban Krag Climbing Center,

Dayton, OH

• $460 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, Rok Haus Indoor Climbing

Gym, Lafayette, LA

• $440 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, Mountain DreamsInternational, Pittsburgh, PA

• $390 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, CLIMBMAX, INC, Asheville, NC

• $384 Royal Robbins slide show, EMS,Boulder, CO

• $325 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, Footsloggers, Boone, NC

• $325 Taylor Falls clean up, MidwestMountaineering, Minneapolis, MN

• $250 Climbathon/Pumpfest, Black HillsClimbers Coalition, SD

• $240 Kickin Access 2001 slide show withKurt Smith, Boulders Sport Climbing

Center, Harker Heights, TX

9/9 Carmel,CA - Pinnacles Clean Up- datetentative, Mountain Tools, Larry Arthur andMonteray Penninsula Climbers,831-620-0911

9/14 Eldorado Springs, CO - CelebrateEldo, Action Committee for Eldorado,Jennifer Shinn- 970-586-4075

9/15 Pocatello,ID - Pocatello Pump, IdahoState University, Peter Joyce,-208-236-3912

9/15 Monument,CO - Adopt-A-Crag:Garden of the Gods, Bob Hostetler, 719-488-8867

9/22 Laramie,WY - 4th Annual Fat CrackFest, Cross Country Connection, WadeGriffith, 307-721-2851

9/22 Joshua Tree, CA - trail project andslide show, Friends of Joshua Tree, PhilSpinelli 760-366-9699 www.friendsofjosh.org

9/22 Sam’s Throne, AR - Adopt-a-Crag-Sept. 22 & 23, Petra Rock Climbing Gym,Corey Canada- [email protected], 417-860-0104

9/22 Charleston,SC - 4th-yearAnniversary, Charleston County Park &Recreation, Jason Rich, 843-762-8090

10/6 Cincinatti, OH - 9th Annual ForearmFrenzy, Sun & Ski Sports, 513-745-0099

10/6 Boulder,CO - Adopt a Crag at theAmphitheatre Oct.6 & 7th,Mountain Sports,Flatirons Climbing Council and the BoulderRock Club, Holly Scherbo, 3034428355, DaveTurner 303-554-8535 and Matt O’Conner 303-447-2804

10/12 Tulsa,OK - 9th Annual ForearmFrenzy-10/12-14, Sun & Ski Sports, 918-254-0673

10/13 Vantage,WA - Frenchman Coulee

Trail Project- tentative date, Andy Fitz,

Frenchman’s Coulee Climber’s Coalition, REI

Federal Way store,253-761-7866

10/13 Bishop, CA - Adopt-a-Crag- Happy

& Sad Boulders, BLM, Scott Justham, 760-

872-4881, [email protected], Wilson’s

Eastside Sports, 760-873-7520, Mick Ryan,

760-873-9147, Bouldering.com

10/20 Houston,TX - 9th Annual Forearm

Frenzy, Sun & Ski Sports EXPO,281-537-0928

10/20 Joshua Tree,CA Women Rock Josh

climbing workshop weekend for women,

Friends of Joshua Tree, Patty Rambert

www.friendsofjosh.org

10/21 Golden,CO - Horsetooth Hang &

AMGA annual meeting, Craig Luebben,

970-493-2849

10/27 Enchanted Rock, TX trail project,

Texas Mountaineers- Friends of Enchanted

Rock, Michael Lewis, 210-682-4480

10/27 Box Canyon Clean Up, Stone Age

Climbing Gym, Byran Pletta,

[email protected], 505-341-2016

11/1 Bloomington,IL - Hangdog

Jamboree, Upper Limits, Jody Furr,

800-964-7814








CalendarEvents Pinnacle

21

RESCUE COSTSI read about rescue cost issue in

Vertical Times and one thing comes tomind: firemen. Yes, firemen. KimberFitzmorgan (Letters VT#41) thinksclimbers should pay their rescue costs.Does she think people should pay theirfire department to come to their houseand put out a fire? What if a ratchewed through the wires? Does therat pay?

This question should open eyes tothe fact that climbers, homeowners,drivers, and most other people usecity, county, state, and federal fundedfacilities. I believe that Kimber andothers with this opinion do not actual-ly pay-as-they-go. These individualsare very selective about the organiza-tions they support, but they are usual-ly hypocritical about the organizationsthey condemn.

I believe that climbers should payfor rescue costs when the climbers arenegligent. Ski areas charge skiers forrescues if the skier goes out-of-bounds. I believe that any rescue costissues be applicable to hikers, bikers,and backpackers. I believe that any

government programs that collectfunds be revoked. They discriminateagainst climbers.

Finally, the government should payfor the public lands out of tax moneybecause that is the only way to trulypreserve the lands for the future. Ifuse fee income drops off then whathappens to the land? Probably a lum-ber company, or rancher would buy it,and it would be gone from the publicforever. We need to maintain the landsfor the future generations that willwant or need it.

David RectorLake Tahoe, NV

ARMANDO RESPONDS TO “ACCESSFUND V. TRUTH”

Richard Morse responded in the pastissue of Vertical Times to my editorial(VT Vol. 40) criticizing the editors forallowing an opinion that “falsely por-trays the National Outdoor LeadershipSchool (NOLS) as an enemy of fixedanchors in the wilderness.” He says,that although I was there [at theNegotiated Rulemaking meetings], Igot it wrong [about NOLS’s position].Not only was I there, I took notes. Inthem is this exchange between PhilPowers, President of the AmericanMountain Guides Association, long

time NOLS instructor and executivestaff member, and Stefan Jackson,NOLS’ representative at the NegotiatedRulemaking:

Powers: “Are you saying that it isthe official position of NOLS that newfixed anchors should never be permit-ted in wilderness?”

Jackson: “Yes.” That was it. [This statement] was

followed by a long silence, as most ofthe climbers in the room sucked intheir breath and had nothing to say.

Armando MenocalWilson, WY

Access Fund Executive DirectorSam Davidson Responds

As a former NOLS field instructor, and theAccess Fund’s representative to theNegotiated Rulemaking, I also was surprisedby some of the statements Stefan Jacksonmade on behalf of NOLS during the negotia-tions. Richard Morse is right in that allgroups with a stake in the outcome of thefixed anchors in wilderness issue shouldwork together. However, some of us felt thatNOLS was less committed to this goal duringthe meetings than we expected. We certainlydid not intend to foster any personalgrudges or criticize the exemplary leader-ship and work that NOLS has consistentlydemonstrated on many other recreationaluse and wilderness management issues.Menocal’s editorial highlighted the differ-ences of approach and philosophy that pre-vented the Negotiated Rulemaking commit-tee from reaching consensus. We hope thatin the future, we can overcome these differ-ences and achieve a broadly acceptable,long-term solution to the fixed anchor issue.Stefan Jackson, to his credit, did try to actas a “bridge-builder” during the negotia-tions. From the Access Fund’s perspective,however, NOLS’s position, as Morse affirms,supports the continued (albeit restricted)use of fixed anchors in wilderness areas,and Stefan could have made this more clear.

22 v e r t i c a l t i m e s s e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 1

Should climbers pay for their rescues? “Climbers should pay for rescue costs when the climbersare negligent,” says David Rector,”Ski areas charge skiers for rescues if the skier goes out-of-bounds. I believe any rescue cost be applicable to hikers, bikers and backpackers.”

John

Hei

sel


PresidentBecky Hall, CO–The Nature Conservancy

Vice PresidentJeff Bowman, MA–Climber Activist

SecretaryEric Hobday, UT–Wichita Mountain

Climbers Coalition

TreasurerRob Raker, CO–Filmmaker

Board of DirectorsConrad Anker, CA–The North Face

Chris Archer, CO–AttorneyMia Axon, CO–CO Outward Bound School

Leslie Brown, WA–Electric LightwaveAndy Carson, WY–Trad Climber

Ken Cline, CO–Computer ConsultantAndy Fitz, WA–Asst. Attorney General

Charlotte Fox, CO–High Altitude ClimberLarry Gustafson, TX–Attorney

Pat Jodice, OR–Oregon Cooperative Fish & Wildlife Unit

Goose Kearse, NC–Misty Mt. ThreadworksMichael Kennedy, CO–Former Owner and

Editor of ClimbingMark Kroese, WA–Writer, Climber Activist

Bob Margulis, WA–Climber ActivistReese Martin, CO–Sempra EnergyChris McNamara, CA–SuperTopo, LLC

Dave Rosenstein, NY–CampmorShannon Stuart Smith, KY–Attorney

Jeff Widen, CO–CO Environmental Coalition

Honorary Board Member & FounderArmando Menocal, WY–Human Rights &

Environmental Advocate

Access Fund Staff

Executive DirectorSam Davidson . . . . . [email protected]

Conservation DirectorKath Pyke . . . . . . . [email protected]

Access & Acquisitions DirectorShawn Tierney . . . [email protected]

Policy AnalystJason Keith. . . . . . [email protected]

Publications DirectorJohn Heisel . . . . . . [email protected]

Associate Development DirectorHeather Clark. . . [email protected]

Membership DirectorKerry Cowan . . . . . [email protected]

Office AssistantAimee Baker

T O A L L W H O ’ V E H E L P E D U S A C H I E V E O U R M I S S I O N

23

Diamond Partners $20,000•Black Diamond, Bibler/Scarpa

•Climbing•Galyan’s

•REI•Rock & Ice

Platinum+ Partners$15,000+

•Hothouse Design & Advertising•Omega Pacific Mountaineering

Platinum Partners$10,000+

•The North Face

Gold Plus Partners$7,500+•CLIF Bar

•Patagonia•Polartec/Malden Mills

•W.L. Gore

Gold Partners $5,000+•Campmor

•Crazy Creek Products•Five.Ten

•La Sportiva• Climb High/Mammut

•Nalgene•Petzl America

•PrAna •Trango USA &

Stonewear Designs

Silver Partners 2,500+•Advanced Base Camp

•BlueWater•Boreal

•Boulder Rock Club•Corplan

•Eagle Creek•Entre Prises USA•Falcon Publishing

•Gregory Mtn. Products•Kelty

•Lowe Alpine Systems•Metolius

•Maxim Ropes•New Belgium Brewing Co.

•Sterling Rope•Weathered Stone

Major Partners 1,000+•Altrec.com

•American Bouldering Series•Arc’teryx

•Cascade Designs/Therm-a-Rest

•Cordless•Hi-Tec Sports

•Jansport•Marmot

•Misty Mountain Threadworks•Mountain Gear

•Mountain Hardwear•Outside

•Outdoor Research•Phoenix Bouldering Comp

•Phoenix Rock Gym•PMI•PuR

•Red Point, Inc.•Royal Robbins•Sport Chalet

•Sun & Ski Sports•Wild Country/Red Chili USA

•Yates Gear

Contributing Partners $500+•All Terrain

•Alpine Ascents International•Bearing Images

•Cloudveil Mountain Works•Excalibur DMM•Flannel Design

•Gravity Kills Company•Greischar Dungan Architects

•Jackson Hole Mountain Guides•Jagged Edge Mountain Gear

•Joshua Tree RockClimbing School

•Megalith•Mountain Madness

•Mountain Tools•Nicros

•Philadelphia Rock Gym•Ropegun

•Seattle ManufacturingCorporation

•Shoreline Mountain Products•Sickle Climbing

•Soma Entertainment•Stone Age Climbing

•T.K. Michaels D.D.S., P.S.•Voodo Holds

•Ushba Mountain Works•ZuluSports.com

Media Partners•Blue

•Elevation•Freeskier

•Southeastern Adventures

2001 CORPORATE PARTNERSThe Access Fund sends great thanks to industry members and like-minded

businesses for partnering with the Access Fund this year.P L E A S E S U P P O R T T H E M

c l i m b i n g c o m p sJim Waugh and everyone at the Phoenix Bouldering Comp, Ski Haus International, Toni Brumbaugh, Inner Peaks Climbing Center, Page Leeh o s t i n g o r g i v i n g a s l i d e s h o wKURT SMITH, ELAINA ARENZ AND DJ CHUCK!! YOU GUYS ROCK! Thanks as well to allthe gyms and retailers out there supporting Kurt’s show and the work he’s doing forthe Access Fund! So far Kurt’s tour has raised $15,000 and nearly 400 new members!!Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder Rock Club, Matt O’Conner, Jim Shimberg, JenniferHawbaker, Hans Florine, Gene Kistlerf e s t i v a l s , d e m o s , m e m b e r s h i p p r o m o sLeslie Van Orman, Kathryn and Jerry Dodgen, Lance Brock, Scott Glowgoski, OutpostWilderness Adventures, David Appleton, Vertical World, Seattle, Boulders Climbing Gymf o r j u s t b e i n g a w e s o m e !Folks at the Lander Bar, Wilson’s Eastside Sports, Upper Limits, Pam Schmick, AndyCarson, David Silberman, Conrad Anker, Rob Raker, Eric Hobday, Charlotte Fox, ReeseMartin, Mark Kroese, Armando Menocal, Becky Hall, Lisa Rands, Wills Young TommyCaldwell, Dave Graham

THE BIG STORYClimbing Management Plan . . . . .p.1MEET THE A.F. ANGELA new cartoon series by Jeremy Collinsp.2POLICY UPDATEUse Fees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .p. 3AREA REPORTSRegional access news across thenation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .p. 4-6MEET THE ACCESS FUNDNew Policy Analyst Jason Keith . . .p. 72000 ANNUAL REPORTLetter for the President and ExecutiveDirector, reports, accomplishments, andyear 2000 supporters . . . . . . .p. 8-19RESOURCE UPDATEThird Cycle 2001 Grants . . . . . . .p. 20HOT PROJECTS AND EVENTS:Sizzling Fall events near you . . .p.21LETTERSResponses from climbers . . . . . .p. 22THANKS AND PARTNERSEvents/volunteer thank yous andCorporate Partners . . . . . . . . . . .p. 23

The Access Fund is a national, nonprofitdedicated to keeping climbing areas open &conserving the climbing environment. Since itsincorporation in 1990, the Access Fund hasprovided more than $1 million for climbingconservation and education across the US.We’ve paid for land purchases, climbers’ camp-grounds, educational brochures, toilets, signs,and scientific research on climbers’ impact onbirds of prey and cliff-dwelling plants. Formore information, please contact us.

www.accessfund.org

phone: 303-545-6772

address: P.O. Box 17010,Boulder, CO 80308

Vertical Times is the membershipnewsletter of the Access Fund pub-lished six times a year in January,March, May, July, September andNovember. Authorizing organization:the Access Fund, 2475 Broadway,Boulder, CO 80304. This issue date: September 1, 2001.Volume #42. Price: $30/yr. Editorial Director: Sam DavidsonEditor: John HeiselExceeds 50 percent recycled content

The Access Fund has initiated anationwide bouldering campaign for2001-2002 to preserve access and nat-ural resources at America’s diversebouldering areas. After consulting withwell-known climbers, local climbingorganizations and Access Fund RegionalCoordinators, the AF has produced thepurpose and initiatives describedbelow:

CAMPAIGN PURPOSE•To raise awareness about bouldering

among land managers and the public.•To promote care and respect for

natural places visited by boulderers.•To mobilize the climbing communi-

ty to act responsibly and work. cooper-atively with land managers and landowners.

•To protect and rehabilitate boulder-ing resources.

•To preserve bouldering access.

MAJOR CAMPAIGN INI T IAT IVES•Target the acquisition of a signifi-

cant bouldering area under threat.•Provide a telephone help-line for

support and advice on dealing withbouldering access issues.

•Target a portion of the Access Fundgrants program towards improvingopportunities for bouldering, or reduc-ing impacts at bouldering sites.

EDUCAT ION AND OUTREACH:•Produce an inspirational poster fea-

turing top boulderers with endorsementstatement, simple bouldering code andindustry logo’s.

•Produce a laminated tag with boul-dering code for use on sales tags ofbouldering products.

•Stickers for events, retail outlets,gyms, etc.

•Enlist the support of our corporateand community partners.

•Work with popular bouldering web-site webmasters to incorporate ourcampaign message on their sites.

•Produce a “bouldering whitepaper”with management guidance for landmanagers and local climbing organiza-tions working on access issues at boul-dering sites.

For more information, e-mail Shawn

Tierney, Access Fund Access and Acquisition

Director, at [email protected].


Non-Profit Org.US Postage

PAIDPermit No. 904

Denver , CO

The Access Fund, PO Box 17010

Boulder, CO 80308

Address Service Requested

ACCESS FUND LAUNCHES BOULDERING CAMPAIGN

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42 september 01 (867k)

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