4.01 fibers and fabrics. vocabulary ***fiber: the smallest unit in a textile fabric. yarn: a group...
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4.01 fibers and fabrics
Vocabulary• ***Fiber: The smallest unit in a textile fabric.• Yarn: A group of fibers twisted together to form a
continuous strand.• Fabric: Any material that is made by weaving,
knitting, braiding, knotting, laminating, felting, or chemical bonding.
• Hand: The way a fabric feels to the touch.• ***Denier: Thickness or diameter of a fiber.• Microfibers: man-made, Ultra fine, soft, luxurious
fibers • CAD (Computer Aided Design): Computer
system software used for designing textiles, fashion, apparel, and other products.
Natural Fibers
Fibers from plants or animals.
•Staple fibers: Lower quality, short fibers.
•Filament fibers: Long, continuous fibers of higher quality.
•Cellulosic fibers***: Fibers from plants.
•Protein fibers: Fibers derived from animals or insects.
Manufactured fibersFibers that are man-made and are created by combining various substances with chemicals.
•Solid raw materials and chemicals are melted or dissolved to form a ***thick liquid.
•The liquid is forced through the tiny holes of a mechanical device known as a spinnerette to form filaments. (Similar to pushing dough through a pasta machine to make spaghetti.)
•The filaments are then stretched, hardened, and crimped and/or cut into lengths.
•Cellulosic manufactured fibers are made from cellulose from plants such as soft wood pulp and are changed into usable fibers by applying chemicals.
•Noncellulosic manufactured fibers are made from various petrochemical mixtures of crude oil, natural gas, air, and water.
Blend: A combination of two or more fibers that maximizes the best features of each fiber.
•Example: Combining cotton with polyester
***Natural fibers***
• Cotton
• Wool
• Flax (linen)
• Silk
Cotton
• Most widely used of all natural fibers***
• Grown in the southern U.S. and other warm climates
• Characteristics:Strong and durableAbsorbentCool to wearShrinks in hot waterWrinkles easily
The soft, white, downy fiber (boll) attached to the seed of a cotton plant.
Cotton• Proper care
– Machine wash– Tumble dry at moderate
temperatures– Press with warm to hot
iron
• Common uses***:UnderwearSocksShirts, blousesJeansTowels, sheets
Wool The coat (fleece) of sheep***. • Characteristics:
• ***Warmest of all natural fibers
• Soft and resilient• Naturally flame retardant• Absorbs moisture more
slowly than cotton• Shrinks if machine washed
or dried unless chemically treated
• Affected by moths
Wool
• Proper care for untreated wool:– Dry clean or hand
wash in cool water and a mild detergent
– Do not place in dryer
Common uses***:•Sweaters•Tailored suits•*Coats•*Blankets•Upholstery•Rugs, carpets
Flax
The fiber that comes from the stem of a flax plant.
• Grown primarily in Eastern Europe
• Linen is flax fabric.
• Common uses:– Pants– Blazers– Table linens– Upholstery
Flax • Characteristics– Durable and strong– Lustrous and
smooth– Comfortable and
cool to wear– Wrinkles easily
• Proper Care:– Hand wash or dry
clean (according to garment label)
– Iron while damp
Silk
• Primarily produced Thailand, China, India
***The fine, lustrous fiber that comes from a cocoon spun by a silkworm.
Silk• Characteristics:
– Luxurious appearance and feel
– Strongest of all natural fibers
– Drapes nicely– Expensive– Easily spots if
fabric becomes wet
Leather and Fur
• Hides or skins of animals.
• ***Leather: A tough, flexible material made by preserving animal hides through a process called tanning.
•Leather is used for:HandbagsShoesBeltsJackets
Suede: Leather with a napped surface on the flesh side.
•Primary sources:CattleGoatskinsSheepskinsReptiles
Fur• Fur is used for***:
– Coats– Outerwear– Trimmings
Common Sources– Mink– Chinchilla– Fox– Rabbit
***The soft, hairy coat of an animal.
Manufactured fibers***each has it’s own slide
•Polyester
•Nylon
•Acrylic
•Rayon
•Acetate
•Spandex
Polyester• **Made from coal or petroleum• **Often blended with other fibers• Resists wrinkling• **Great washability• Pills easily• Static buildup
• Common uses:– Children’s wear, shirts, suits
Nylon• **First fiber to be manufactured totally from
chemicals• Strong, durable• Dries quickly• Resists wrinkles and soil• Washes easily • Heat sensitive• Clings to the wearer
• Common uses:– Hosiery, swimwear, windbreakers
Acrylic• Resembles
wool• Soft and warm• Wrinkle
resistant
• Static buildup• Pills easily
Common uses:
•Knitted garments
•Outdoor furniture fabrics and awnings
•Rugs
Rayon
• Soft, absorbent, and comfortable• Inexpensive• Stretches and is weak when wet• Mildews and wrinkles easily
Common uses:– Linings– Sports shirts– Jackets
Acetate• Made from wood pulp• Silky, luxurious• Deep luster, soft• Wrinkles easily• Special care needed in cleaning
• Common uses***:– Neckties– Lingerie– Blouses– Linings
Spandex• Stretchy• Easily damaged by bleach• Nonabsorbent
• Common uses:– Swimwear– Dancewear – Exercise wear
Fabric Production Steps
1.Fibers are twisted together into yarns.
2.Yarns are woven or knitted to form fabric.
3.Color is added by dyeing or printing to enhance the fabric’s appeal.
4.A finish is applied to make the fabric suitable for its end use and to improve its appearance.
Turning Yarn into Fabric
Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more sets of yarns at right angles on a loom.
•Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric.
•Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric.
•Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns or threads in a woven fabric.
•Bias**: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest stretch in the fabric.
Weaving • Plain weave: The simplest of all weaves in which the crosswise yarn is passed over then under each lengthwise yarn.
– Examples: broadcloth, muslin, flannel
Plain weave
• Twill weave:–Used for **durability
–This weave produces a **diagonal design on the surface.
–Examples: **denim, gabardine
Twill weave
• Satin weave:
• Weave that produces a **smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric
–Examples: sateen, satin
Satin weave
Other weaves• Pile weave—
corduroy, velvet• Jacquard—
brocade, damask (upholstery)
• Leno—fabrics with an open, lacy appearance (like fruit bags)
Knitting
• **Weft knits: Knits made with only one yarn that runs crosswise forming a horizontal row of interlocking loops.
– Grandma’s knitting
***Constructing fabric by looping yarns together.
• Warp knits: Knits made with several yarns creating loops that interlock in the lengthwise direction.
• Gauge: ***The number of stitches, or loops, per inch in a knitted fabric.
Other Fabric Construction
• Nonwoven. ***Fibers are compacted together using moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, or pressure. Examples: quilt batting, garment interfacings, felt, artificial suede
• Laces and nets. Made by knotting, twisting, or looping yarns. Example: lace
• Quilted fabric. A layer of padding or batting is sandwiched between two layers of fabric and held in place by stitching. Examples of use: bedspreads, placemats, and outerwear
Fabric finishing***Applying colors, designs or surface
treatments that change the look, feel, or performance of fabrics.
• ***Bleaching: Chemical processes that remove color, impurities, or spots from fibers.
• Dyeing: A method of giving color to a fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment.
• Printing: The process of adding color, pattern, or design to the surface of fabrics.
Finish categories• **Mechanical: Finishes
that are applied mechanically rather than chemically.
– Affect size and appearance
– Examples: glazing, embossing, brushing/napping/cutting (corduroy)
• **Chemical: Finishes that become part of the fabric through chemical reactions with the fibers.
• Affect performance• Examples: flame
retardant, stain resistant, waterproof, permanent press, preshrunk
Trends
and
Technology
Equipment and machinery• More automated weaving and knitting
machines• Color management tools that can
synchronize a colored design on a computer screen, a paper printout, and the actual fabric color
• Sophisticated CAD tools with 3D capabilities
• Processes constantly monitored by computer systems
Microfibers
• Enhanced characteristics for high performance fabrics resulting in production of intelligent garments
- wicking (a fiber’s ability to draw moisture away from the body so it can evaporate)
- coolness- warmth- protection
Recycling
• ***Plastic soda bottles converted into polyester fiber
− used to make fabric for t-shirts and filling for pillows
− can be recycled numerous times without losing its performance attributes
− “Eco-spun”
Government regulations
•The Wool Products Labeling Act (1939) provides that all garments made of wool have a label indicating the percentage and kind of wool used.
•The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (1958) requires that all clothing have a label listing the generic fiber content by percentage.
•The Flammable Fabrics Act (1953) regulates the sale of highly flammable fabrics used in apparel and prohibits the sale of extremely flammable fabrics.
•The Permanent Care Labeling Act (1972) requires that all clothing offered for sale in retail stores have a label indicating specific care instructions. New symbols for use in this labeling were introduced in 1997.