3dprint manual
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Autostereoscopic 3Dutostereoscopic 3DPhotographyhotography
Introduction
Autostereoscopic Images instantly attract the viewers attention due to
their exceptional appearance.
Our intention was to develop a method that allows anyone to see 3D
without the need for external equipment such as Shutter or Red/CyanGlasses with the additional premise to be accomplished using ordinary
Computer Hardware.
We tried several autostereoscopic methods but none of them was as
convincing when comparing the Results.
For our approach we use a so called Parallax Barrier Method.
That means that we put vertical Bars above the actual Image
(a Parallax Barrier Grid) to generate a 3D Image.
Please read this Manual thoroughly as its Content will help you
to create high quality Autostereoscopic Images.
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Table of Content
I. Required Equipment
II. Technical Background
III. Setup and Installation of the Software
IV. Settings
V. Assembly of 3D Photo
VI. General Advice on Taking 3D Photos
VII. Tilt Cards and other Usage Options
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I. Required Equipment
To create your own 3D Images or Photographs you should have access tothe following material:
Digital Camera or Camcorder (for creating your own Photos)
High Quality Inkjet Printer ( 300dpi+ )
Inkjet Transparencies ( Glasclear )
Be careful as there are also white/greyish transparencies
Thin Plexiglass, Inkjet Tranparencies or a Paper Frame
as Spacer Material
Duct Tape to adjust and fix the printed 3D Images
Internet access to download additional Software
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II. Technical Background
A prerequisite for the perception of a 3D Image or Photo is that each eyegets a unique Image. If that precondition is met your brain will perceive
a 3 dimensional Image.
For our approach we use a so called Parallax Barrier Method.
That means that we put vertical Bars above the Image (a Parallax
Barrier Grid)
Example using two view perspectives (L/R)
Barrier Grid
Plexiglass Spacer Processed Image
Light
Our Picture consists of several Images that are put into vertical slices
printed on an Inkjet Transparency with a regular Inkjet Printer.
Onto that Image we place our spacer. To create a 3D Image another
Transparency with a parallax barrier is put on top. Now we have a
separator that lets us see a unique image per view perspective.
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Let`s use an Example - we have three Source Images:
One Left View, Middle View and Right View
The Software calculates an Interlaced Image that consists of vertical
slices of all three Images. It is even possible to include more photos, so
that you will have additional perspectives, when moving the assembled
3D Image to the left or right side, similar to a hologram.
To view your 3D Photos you need a LightSource from behind to
compensate for the Barrier Grid, or you can put the assembled Image in
front of a Window, which will work the same way.
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The Interlaced Image The Parallax Barrier Image behind Barrier
If you see unevenly spaced lines on printout attempts, as in the picture
above, your printer driver probably does not support the Resolution. This
will result in an unwanted Moire Pattern, or a completely Black Grid.
Remember to always print your 3D Images at the Highest Quality your
Printer is capable of. You may attempt printing on normal Paper before
pringting to Transparencies to preview the Result.
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III. Setup and Installation of the Software
The Software was written as an addon for Gimp. Gimp is an OpenSourceGraphic Software Application. In this way you will obtain a full featured
Graphics Suite. In which you will have a unique and very fast Workflow,
to adjust your Photos and generate your 3D Images in one single
Environment. Even Import and Export into Adobe`s Photoshop File
Format is possible from within Gimp.
Gimp is OpenSource The latest Version can be downloaded from
http://www.gimp.org
Gimp is available for Linux, MacOS and Windows.
1. Goto http://www.gimp.org and Install Gimp
2. Copy the 3D Script File you received via eMail into
Gimp`s Script File Directory. A new directory can be added using
Edit -> Settings -> Folders -> Scripts
Now you can restart Gimp and you should have a new Option in the
Applications File Menu called 3D Parallax Barrier .
Then load your Images from Left (top level layer) to Right side each onto
a single Layer.
Now you`re ready to process the Image.
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IV. Available Settings
Rows per Section:
Here you adjust how many Pixels an Imagesection consists of. It will
also have an impact on the thickness of the Spacer that you need to put
between the two transparencies.
Printer Resolution:
This Option lets you match your Printers DPI Settings, it will also affect
the Size of the Final Image.
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Resize Target Image:
You may want to change the size for your Target image,within this Option you can choose some common format options
Sharpen Source Images:
When enabled an interactive Dialog will appear during processing that
allows you to sharpen the Source Images - in case you did choose a new
Target Size.
You should apply the same Settings to all Layers in your Image.
This option will improve the Image Quality.
Create a Grid Layer:
Creates a Parallax Barrier Grid, that fits your Image and is placed above
the interlaced Image. ( You will need this for most Images ! )
Create Adjustment Frame:
Creates a Small Rectangle so that you can match the Front and Rear
Transparencies exactly.
A perfect alignment of the Barrier grid with the Image is a prerequisite
for a good 3D Photo. You can adjust the distance from your image where
the frame should be drawn as well as its thickness. Some printer will not
print Pixel Lines of one Pixel size in 600dpi mode, even if they should becapable of, in such a case you can adjust it to two Pixels. You may even
adjust the color of the (GridLayer) adjustment frame, and the rear (Image
Layer) Adjustment Frame.
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Create a Cut Mark:
Creates a Frame that can be used to cut out the Image with eg. aScissor
The Image you made from the Left Side must be
placed on top.
Always put the Images in an order from Left to Right
View.
If you look at the Printout from the Rear side and it looks more 3D-like
then you probably messed up the Image Order.
V. Assembly of a 3D Photo
Cut out the Transparencies and either make a spacer with a thin layer of
paper framed around the transparencies, or use plexiglass or any other
transparent material. Set the Spacer thickness regarding the resolution
and amount of images you used. When printing at 300dpi with 5 Images
at a pixel width we use a Spacer thickness of 0.5mm. This results in a
brilliant 3D experience.
Take care that you match the adjustment lines exactly or it won`t work.
We usually take some duct tape and fix two opposite sides losely, match
the lines and then fix it with crystal clear scotch tape or somethingsimilar.
Let us know if you made something for the Gallery.
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VI. General Advice for creating 3D-Photos
Use only horizontal shifted point of views
You may use a Camcorder to capture the Images
Use very small steps max one Interocular distance (~6.3 cm),
Distances further apart as 3cm will have no more positive impact
on depth perception
Using bigger steps will result in a very jumpy Background of your
Image
If you do a Portrait, align all Images at the Center of the Person
(e.g. Nose)
You can Improve the 3D Image Quality, if you cut out the
Background and create a custom Background for your Object
If possible use a tripod, the object must not move during capture
The Spacer material should not be thicker than the Rows per
Section size of all Layers combined
Example:
Rows per Section 2 Pixel
9 SourceImagesPrint with 360 dpi
then: 2px * 9 Img= 18px 360dpi/18px=20dpi
one inch 25,4mm / 20 ~ 1 mm
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VII. Tilt Cards and other Usage Options
Using this Software you can not only Print 3D Images,but also great 2D Animations like Tilt Cards
Simply convert 2 12 Images from an animation series into one
Parallax Interlaced Image, but rotate the Source Images by 90
before processing ( Tilt Card with vertical Barriers)
Images that Change in Color or Flip Color
Same as above
Strange Images, which project different Colors per Eye
Use several Images eg 3 Images with shifted Colors like Andy
Warhol did and put it into one Parallax Image
Moire Images consisting of Black Lines being usually an unwanted
Effect in Printing that can result in some cool Images
Just subtract a Parallax Grid Layer from a Black and White Image.
Create a Negative Image from it and put both images together.
( When you do this with High Quality Settings the Surface will look
like the Image is filled with a fluid. )
You can use an Electroluminescent Panel to create a Backlight,
or simply use a backlighted Photo Frame
.
.
.
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This document is Copyright. No part of this publication may be
reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a
database or retrieval system, without the written permission by the
author
Friedemann Wolpert 2009
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