2002 issue #1 –features...rudder fixes:procedures to repair or modify common rudder problems. 44...

38 LIGHTNING STRIKES —HIT OR MISSThere is no way you can prevent lightningstriking your boat, but you can improveyour odds and minimize damage byinstalling a lightning protection system. By Susan Canfield

w w w. d i y - b o a t . c o m © DIY boat owner 2002- #1 1

22 Boat Detail ingReviving your boat’s glossy finish and creatinga factory-new appearance is surprisingly easyif you use the proper techniques. Follow thesesteps for a long-lived durable shine.

26 Drive train tune -upA step-by-step survey and repair of the drive trainfrom the propeller to theengine coupling will keepyour inboard engine running smoothly andvibration free. By Harry Swieca

47 OF HULLS, DECKS & INTERIORSA collection of tips for refinishing brightwork, strippingcoatings, bottom painting, purging water tanks, installinga fire system and how to build a do-it-yourself sand-blaster.

Columns13 SHOPTALKGelcoat Spray Techniques: Followthese simple steps for a professionalsprayed finish to your fiberglass repair. By Wayne Redditt

18 ELECTRONICSTroubleshooting Tank Senders: A fueltank sender is one of those devices thateither works or doesn’t. When it doesn’t,you long for a dipstick. Follow these stepsto test and install a new one.

19 PROJECTSDrilling Holes in Boats; Build a ConvertibleTable; A Child’s Stateroom.

33 SAILBOAT RIGGINGRudder Fixes: Procedures to repair ormodify common rudder problems.

44 powerboat riggingExtreme Power Boost: Better fuel econ-omy, a cleaner burning engine andreduced maintenance are just a few goodreasons to add high tech components toyour boat’s engines, even in a motoryachtwith a cruising speed of just 8 knots. By Dwight Powell

56 GOOD BOATKEEPINGTips to secure hatch lockers, tools andwinches. By David & Zora Aiken

Departments2 Currents

6 Talkback Q&A When to Change Oil, Hoses; PatchingPitted Ports; Bonding Lexan; A4 Cousin; It’sa Mansfield, But not Jane; Steering CableTensionometer; Three’s Battery Set-up;Reconditioning I-6 Mercs; Trickle ChargingMultiple Batteries

12 Tech Tips

Features– 2 0 0 2 i s s u e # 1 –

FR E E t e c hn i c a l h e l p w i t h your subscr i p t i o n . S e e p a g e 8 or l o g on to D I Y O N L I N E a t www . d i y - b o a t . c om

36 INTELLIGENT SANITATIONSimple-to-install, this ultra compact onboardtreatment system eliminates a holding tank forboats operating in discharge zones. By David and Zora Aiken

16 BALANCING BOAT WARRANTIESRead your boat warranty and you’ll find out what’scovered and what is not. You’ll also learn that “manufacturer” refers to many unrelated companies,not just the company that built your boat. By Nick Bailey

http://www.diy-boat.com

2 DIY boat owner 2002- #1 ( w w w. d i y - b o a t . c o m ) 1-888-658-2628

2001 Editorial Index online. Just goto www.diy-boat.com and click on“Archives.” Or call us toll-free at 1-888/658-BOAT and we’ll mail acopy.

Questioning Splash-StopInstallI always look forward to receivingyour magazine and learning some-thing new to help me maintain andimprove my powerboat. When DIY2001-#4 arrived I was pleased tosee two articles featured that are onmy list of tasks to complete thisspring, namely “Windows, Hatches,Ports” and “Cure for Diesel Spills.”Although my boat is gasoline pow-ered, I was most interested in read-ing the latter article to obtain a solu-tion to my ongoing spill problem. Iwas quite surprised to see that theinstallation of the Splash-Stop wascompleted within the boat’s electri-cal compartment. Electricity and fueljust don’t mix! While diesel is not asflammable as gasoline, I find itsomewhat distressing that an instal-lation location such as this would befeatured. Should an electrical fireoccur or a fuel leak develops, itwouldn’t take long for the plasticand rubber components to burn withpredictable results. You may wish toreconsider this installation. As a final

note, boaters expe-riencing ventspills whilerefueling

may wish tolook into asimple solutionfrom DavisInstruments, theNo-Spill. This

simple device temporarily attachesover your fuel vent with suction cupsand catches any fuel spills, whichcan be poured, back into the tank.Most recently this product wasawarded “Best New EnvironmentalProduct” at the annual CASBAawards in Toronto, Ontario.Mike Gridley, Barrie, Ontario

CURRENTSThe keep-it-simple doctrine is certainly evident inthe 2002 MerCruiser lineup. Plug and play elec-trical systems, self-draining systems and comput-ers that talk are some of the high-tech advancesthat simplify routine maintenance and servicing.

Smartcraft is an optional engine managementsystem that allows the boat operator to monitorand extract information from a variety of sys-tems, such as engine speed paddlewheel andpitot hull speed; fuel, water and waste tank lev-els, fuel consumption and distance-to-go calcula-tions, engine oil pressure and temperature,coolant temperature, block coolant pressure, bat-tery voltage, stern-drive steering angle plusinput from a GPS and more. New engines areSmartcraft compatible.

Many models are now equipped with a singlepoint cooling-water drain system. No morepulling out brass drain plugs when winterizing,when flushing saltwater out of the block, orprobing the drain port to remove sand and silt.Engines are offered with a manual drain, amechanically operated valve mounted by thegearlube monitor (expansion tank), or a hand-held air pump that drains the raw-water system.And a new easy engine oil drain system savesthe DIYer time, or reduces labor fees if servicedby a dealer.

An audio warning system announces when alow oil and overheat condition exists. And if youmess with the engine or cause damage thatrequires dealer servicing, a computer stores theevents that occurred prior to shutdown and tellsall. For product or dealer information log ontowww.mercurymarine.com.

DRIVE TRENDS[ Edited by Jan Mundy ]

Fuel HarmonyThe article on testing fuel additives(“Fuel Testing,” DIY 2001-#3) pro-vided a fair and accurate analysisof the problem of water in fueltanks. Results of the author’s testsduplicated similar tests conducted byour company. A product not men-tioned in the article that will totallyemulsify water in the fuel is MDRGasoline Water Zorb. William O’Brien, V-P sales and marketing,Marine Development & Research, Merrick,New York

Comfort ZoneYour magazine is like a Vegemitesandwich to an Australian. Full ofnourishment and good taste!Maxwell Hazelwood, Clearwater, Florida

Likes 24/7 AccessAs someone who is living on theirboat, I appreciate that DIY has theforesight to offer the web availabilityof their magazine. Amanda Glickman, “Darwin’s Passage,” SanDiego, California

Comment: DIY’s electronic version,DIY EZINE, is available online atwww.diy-boat.com. Cost isUS$15/CDN$22 for a one-yearsubscription (7 issues.)

Simple Look UpPlease snail mail a copy of the DIYEditorial Index. I have been a sub-scriber since the beginning andhave all the issues and refer to themconstantly. Keep up the good workand continue to assist us boaters bysupplying the necessary know-howso we can continue to enjoy ourhobby. Brian Arrol via email

Comment: Readers can review orprint a copy of the complete 1995-

Comment: The issue here is not thefact that the fuel lines or componentsof the fuel system are run through an

“electrical compartment.” The issueshould be whether the lines meet theappropriate ABYC standard forgasoline or diesel fuel lines (ABYCH-24 for gas; H-33 for diesel). Thefire resistance performance require-ment for the fuel lines in either caseis the issue. No flexible fuel line canresist heat or fire indefinitely, but theminimum ABYC requirement for fireresistance is, at the very least,deemed acceptable. Where therequirement specifies Type A-1 or A-2, hose (flexible fuel line) must beable to withstand the 2-minute firetest as prescribed in the regulation.Where B type hose can be used, thefire test is not required. The otherfactor, ignition protection require-ments, would come into play in agasoline-powered boat. If all theapplicable standards were met, thisinstallation would be considered incompliance. ABYC doesn’t prohibitinstalling batteries in an enginespace. The battery installation stan-dard does provide for securing thebatteries and protecting the termi-nals against accidental arcing, inaddition to a requirement for ventingbattery vapors.

Help Yourself OnlineSupport Electronics systems manufacturerRaymarine (formerly the marine elec-tronics division of Raytheon)launched a 24-hour online supportfor technical questions or productinquiries at www.raymarine.com.

Browsers can search a base foranswers to commonly asked ques-tions.

Passing Grades Cobalt, Crownline, Grady White,Ranger and Sea Ray, ranked amongthe highest for customer satisfactionin a survey of 36 different bassboats, runabouts and center consoleboats conducted by J.D. Power andAssociates.

The study provides detailedevaluations of quality and customersatisfaction with the vessel’s interiorand exterior, features and controls,ride and handling, comfort, conve-nience and engine performance andmaintenance. Among problems mostfrequently cited by the nearly 6,000boatowners who responded weredifficulties starting the engine, theengine idling rough or stalling,gauges not working properly andemblems and pinstriping peeling.The survey also shows that manyconsumers were not satisfied withtheir boat dealer’s service depart-ment.

To find out how your powerboatrates, check out the 2001 MarineQuality and Performance Studyonline at www.jdpower.com/boats.

Back to BasicsMany clubs and marinas organizecourtesy examinations and invite vol-unteers from the Coast GuardAuxiliary or Power Squadron toinspect members’ boats for compli-

1-888-658-2628 ( w w w. d i y - b o a t . c o m ) DIY boat owner 2002- #1 3

It’s not unlucky to change the name of aboat, provided you follow certainrules. First you must remove all

traces of the originalname. Next, youmust prepare aspeech that first

denames theboat, and thenrenames it,but be surenot to men-

tion the oldname. Conclude

both ceremonieswith a libationover the bowand drink atoast (or two).You’ll need a

couple of witnessesfor the swear-in and toasting.

DIY reader Bert Small, who resides onSalt Spring Island in British Columbia, sentus a copy of the de naming and namingceremonies for his boat. Follow his exam-ple and you’re sure to appease the gods ofthe sea.

“As the new owner of this vessel, I callupon the Sea God Neptune, God of theWind Aeolus, Gods of the Tides, the Stormsand Precipitation [select any gods youwant], to listen, while I thank them fortheir protection of this vessel over the last50 years and to hereby strike from theirrecords the name “Dixie Chicken.” I nowask for their indulgence in extending theirgoodwill and protection to the vessel in hernew name that will be revealed in a sepa-rate naming ceremony to come. I offer thislibation to make the ceremony official andcomplete.”

“I now put forth a new name for thisvessel, which we trust will serve us well,and ask Neptune and all the Gods of theSea to grant their protection under thename “Sea Eagle.” I now offer a libation inthanks and recognition of this protection.”

BOAT RENAMING PROTOCAL


ance with certain safety equipmentrequired by law. Instead of waiting,you can conduct your own self-inspection online at safetyseal.net.

Hosted by the NationalDepartment of Vessel Safety Checks(VSC), you download a survey(requires Adobe Acrobat Reader) touse as a guide while performing theonboard inspection. After complet-ing the self-examination, you canrequest an examiner to perform asafety check. You receive a copy oftheir evaluation along with recom-mendations for mandatory andgood-to-have equipment. There areno obligations and you won’treceive a citation should your boatfail. Boats that pass can display theVSC decal. This won’t exempt youfrom boarding by a law enforce-ment agency, but increases yourchances for a more positiveencounter.

Pump Wins AwardFlojet Sensor VSD water pressuresystem pump received the 2002Innovation Award from the U.S.based National Marine Manufactur-ers Association. DIY profiled thishigh-tech, multi-fixture pump in“Install a Modern Water System,“ inthe 2001-#4 issue.

SPARE PARTS

South Shore Yachts in Niagara onthe Lake, Ontario, has the originalbuild file for every production C&Cyacht constructed at the Ontarioplant, plus various replacement partssuch as toerails, stanchions, cleats,window gaskets, tiller handles andmost items your boat needs. Checkout its website at www.southshorey-achts.com.

Publisher & Editor: Jan Mundy

VP Sales & Marketing: Steve Kalman

Designer & Webmaster: Guy Drinkwalter

Circulation: Britton Hardy

Copy Editing: The Wordsmith

Cover design: Guy Drinkwalter

Contributors: David & Zora Aiken, Nick Bailey,Susan Canfield, Larry Douglas, Robert Hess, Kevin

Jeffrey, Pat Kearns, John Payne, Dwight Powell,Wayne Redditt, Paul & Sheryl Shard, Harry Swieca

DIY boat owner™ and The Marine MaintenanceMagazine™ are registered trademarks of JMPublishing. DIY boat owner is published quarterlyby JM Publishing. ISSN 1201-5598

While all precautions have been taken to ensureaccuracy and safety in the execution of articles,plans and illustrations in this magazine, the pub-lisher accepts no responsibility for accidents, mater-ial losses or injuries resulting from the use of infor-mation supplied in these articles, plans or illustra-tions. All rights reserved. No part of this magazinemay be reprinted or used without the express writ-ten consent of the publisher.

MastheadCurrents

Bruce KeeperBoat builder-supplied bow chocks, platforms andanchor rollers are just not designed to mount aBruce anchor. Because of its high and narrowshank profile, a Bruce requires custom fasteningwith bungee cords or line to secure it fromjostling around in standard bow rollers. And for-get storing it on deck unless you have a customBruce chock. The BA100 (US$155) deck chockfits 5kg to 15kg (11lb to 33lb) anchors. To pre-vent loosing the anchor overboard, considermounting a padeye on each sideof the chock that connects toa tie-down wrappedover the shank.

Looking for a pump cycle meter?It’s makes good sense to monitor bilge pumpoperation. Knowing how often the pump runswhile you’re away from the boat helps to isolatea small leak before it becomes worse, and pre-vents battery drains. DIY contributor and elec-tronics’ specialist Larry Douglas has a solution.The CycleStat (US$79.95) operates on 12-voltsDC and counts the number of times a pump (orother cycling device) closes to operate its load. Itincorporates a one-second delay to eliminatefalse readings, and a red LED displays only whenthere is activity. Pressing a button shows theaccumulated count, pressing another resets thecount to zero. Manufactured by ESC Products(Tel: 360/681-6904; Web: www.cyclestat.com).

PRODUCT REVIEWS

Further to your comment in DIY2001-#4 to a reader looking for aTrojan wiring schematic, these aswell as plumbing and parts’ dia-grams and some hard-to-find obso-lete parts are available fromMarineTech (Tel: 717/684-4145). James Eric, Bowie, Maryland

CORRECTIONIn the “Good Boatkeeping” col-umn in DIY 2001-#4 issue, a tip inthe sidebar “Anchoring Tricks”was incorrectly credited to theauthors. The Aikens don’t recom-mend that boaters “…anchorupwind of the crowd,” for two rea-sons. It’s considered impolite toanchor “on top” of another boat.And more importantly, because ofshifting winds and/or currents, it’snot possible to assume that the rel-ative position of the boats in theanchorage will remain the sameall night long.


The impending introduction of 42 volts DC in theautomotive industry and the ever-increasingpower demands of boaters have generated consid-erable interest in the boating world. Essentiallydesigned for automobiles, 42 volts providesgreater power from the engine to power the manyelectrical systems on a vehicle when running. Inaddition, significant improvements in fuel con-sumption will be realized, along with a corre-sponding pollution reduction. This is significantlydifferent from marine scenarios that are oftenbased on drawing power from charged batterieswith long time periods between recharging.

There are considerable factors that affect theimplementation of 42-volt marine systems. Thefirst is the battery. This requires a bank of three12 volt, or six 6 volt cells similar in principle tofour 6 volt for 24-volt systems, and four 8 volt(they are available) for 32-volt systems. In practi-cal terms, the physical size of the battery bankreduces in size, which may give weight savings.Electrical cable sizes are also reduced, althoughpractical limitations will probably follow instru-

mentation cables with minimum sizes. Thoughquality cables are already approved and rated to50 volts, all cables must have insulation dielectricstrengths to suit the higher voltage, most of which,at present, do not. Double insulated cables mustalso become standard rather than optional. Shortcircuit protection of cables requires appropriatelyrated circuit breakers, which may require new rat-ings and approvals.

Circuit configurations also change. This meansan insulated return system, and the end of themore common grounded negative arrangement,which also ends so many corrosion concerns.Higher voltage, however, significantly increasesleakage risks, and installations will ideally haveline leakage and ground fault monitoring, a stan-dard in commercial shipping systems.

As in 32- and 24-volt systems, a major barrierin 42 volts will be the availability of equipmentthat operates with these voltages. It’s probablethat DC-to-DC converters (already available) willbe required resulting in dual voltage systems socommon already. More practical in the short term,is to use 42 volts as a central power system to

sub-panels. This offers many advantages, such asweight savings and reduced voltage drop prob-lems. One area that requires careful planning isthe installation of cables near electronics cables orsensitive power supplies. Interference problemsfrom 42-volt systems will be more pronouncedwith the increased field strengths generated.

While greater power will be derived from exist-ing alternator frame sizes, many motors will phys-ically remain the same to suit pumps and otherequipment, as is the case now in 24-volt systems.A major step forward would be the availability of42-volt windlasses, powered winches and thrustermotors, all of which require large cable runs, andare very voltage drop sensitive. Thrusters arealready used on 48 volts with series connection of24-volt battery banks.

The implementation of 42-volt systems requiresmany changes, both in design principles and inequipment manufacturers. Changes will not berapid and will certainly require careful considera-tion.— John Payne, author of “The MarineElectrical and Electronics Bible.”

42 VOLT DC: A SOLUTION OR PROBLEM

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When to Change Oil, Hoses

Q: I have a 1993 5.7l MerCruiser.The oil is changed at the end of theseason. How often during the sea-son should it be changed? Also howoften are engine hoses changed?John Plachtyna, “Kick n’ Back,” Branford,Connecticut

A: Check the oil regularly andchange it when it’s dirty — whenyou can no longer read the mark onthe dipstick. Change hoses when

they become chafed, cracked orbrittle, though this may not be obvi-ous. A good service rule is tochange hoses every 10 years, evenif there are no visible signs of deteri-oration.— Jan Mundy

Patching Pitted Ports

Q: I’m restoring a 1966 9.4m (31')Uniflite. Years of saltwater boatinghave badly pitted the aluminum win-dow frames that sit on stainless-steeltracks held in place with stainlessscrews. I plan to fill the holes, thenreinstall the side and top channelsusing a layer of 3M Marine wind-shield installation tape and stainlessscrews, and bed the bottom channelin either sealant or use the tape. Isthere a better method? Alan Brown, “Portland,” Oregon

A: According to Eric Atkins ofAtkins & Hoyle (877/415-5167),manufacturers of cast aluminumhatches and davits, to prevent corro-sion you need to isolate the alu-

minum and stainless. To do this, ifyour windows are sliders, insert athin plastic runner of the necessarytolerance between the two materialsand glue to the frame. Plastic makesa better isolation barrier than a bed-ding compound, which may eventu-ally wear through. Install stainlessscrews with a carbon fiber washeragainst the aluminum. For fixed win-dows, use an adhesive between thetwo metals. Use a silicone adhesiveif windows are acrylic so it canexpand and contract. To ensure thesilicone sticks to the acrylic and alu-minum track, clean all surfaces firstwith toluene followed by an acrylicprimer. For glass windows, you canuse a polyurethane sealant and getbetter adhesion, but will need toprep with the proper primer. Afterfilling the pit holes, Atkins suggeststreating frames with aludine, achemical etch available at ananodizing shop, which allows paint-ing without a primer. For the top-coat, Atkins suggests using an inex-pensive body shop paint, warmedto 93°C (200°F) in the oven so itsoaks into the pores as it cools toget better adhesion.— Jan Mundy

Bonding Lexan

Q: I want to bond two Lexan stripsat right angles lengthwise. These arenot load bearing, so ruggedness isnot a major criteria. What is thebest glue to use and what surfacepreparation is needed?John Hinshaw, “Seahawk III,” San Diego,California

A: Lexan, a polycarbonate, is diffi-cult to glue because of a rubberizedagent on the surface. Provided thematerial is thicker than 6mm (1/4"),

use IPS #4, a solvent cement avail-able from many plastics’ suppliers. Ifthe pieces were cut with a saw, nopreparation is necessary as the glueruns into the joint through capillaryaction. A more secure fasteningmethod is to cut a wooden cleat thatfits the joint and mechanically fas-tens the two pieces.— Jan Mundy

A4 Cousin

Q: My C&C 38 has an Atomic 4Stevedore and I was told that theonly difference between this and anAtomic 4 is a restictor in the intake.If so, can it be removed?Dennis Ommen, “Aquilla,” Plymouth,Minnesota

A: You are correct. The AtomicStevedore is an Atomic Four with arestrictor pressed into the intakemanifold throat to lower the horse-power. The only other differencewas some Stevedore models hadsmall #19 main jets in the carbure-tor. To check if the restrictor is stillintact, remove the carburetor andlook into the intake manifoldentrance. It looks like a small dough-nut pressed into the intake throat atthe flange that joins it to the carbure-tor. To remove the restrictor, detachthe manifold, and while supportedon the bench, chop out the restrictorwith a cold chisel. Make sure theengine has a #21 or larger mainjet, the optimum main jet size fittedto the Atomic 4 made after about1977. In most cases removing therestrictor makes little difference inpower, since the propeller in a dis-placement hull boat with a direct-drive Atomic 4 restricts the maxi-mum rpm of the engine to waybelow the maximum horsepowerrpm anyway.— Robert Hess

It’s a Mansfield, But not Jane

Q: Our 1982 CS33 has aMansfield manual marine toilet,

TALK BACK Q&AHelp line 1 -888-658-2628

DEN

NIS

AN

GLE

model 751, that needs a rebuild.Do you know where we can obtaina repair kit? Don Klitsgaard, Dowling, Ontario

A: Mansfield Plumbing was the pre-decessor of SeaLand Technology,which bought the company’s marineproducts division in 1984. SeaLandmade only manual toilets for a fewyears — first the 751, then the 752— and finally discontinued all partsfor both more than 10 years ago.SeaLand continues to make theVacuFlush and the 911-M28 MarineTraveler as well as gravity toiletsand SaniPottie porta-potties, andnone of them differ very much fromthe original Mansfield versions. Partsand tech support are available fromany authorized SeaLand ServiceCenter or directly from SeaLand (Tel:800/321-9886, Email: [email protected]; Web:www.sealandtechnology.com.— Jan Mundy

Steering Cable Tensionometer

Q: I’m refurbishing a 1989 BaylinerCiera Command Bridge 2557 witha Chevy V-8 engine and OMCpower-assisted steering. When Ibought the boat the lower stationsteering cable was disconnected. Itapparently had seized solid andwas not operational. When I testedthe upper station, it moved, but itwas extremely tight and had exces-sive play. It would turn a full quarterturn before any response was noted.I have refitted new cables and steer-ing boxes, however, the powersteering unit only works at the lowerstation. When I disconnect one andtry the other they both work sepa-rately. I’ve checked fluid levels andthe centralized power cylinder asper the OMC service manual, butit’s still a no go. Is there somethingI’m missing? Alexander Loudon, Johannesburg, SouthAfrica


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A: Based on your description itappears that your problem is in thecable adjustment, and not the powerassist unit, otherwise it wouldn’twork at all. The unit functions bysensing the push and pull pressureof the steering cable and respondsaccordingly. If one of the bridge orthe lower station cables has play,the system doesn’t respond properly.The first step is to isolate the two sys-tems and determine if the lower sta-

tion cables are ten-sioned exactly as

per themanual. Although

cables are spring-loaded, it’s possi-ble the springs have lost their ten-sion. An easy way to check tensionon both the push and pull sides is touse a fish scale with a rating of atleast 22.6kg (50lb). First disconnectall the cables from the power assistunit, and then hook the end of thescale on the unit. With the motorrunning, carefully pull the scale andrecord the pressure required tomove the steering. Reconnect thelower station and hook the scalesomewhere in the middle of one ofthe cable’s travel. With the motorrunning, pull the cable toward youuntil the unit responds and recordthe pressure. Do the same on theother side. Both sides should show

equal pressure. If not, adjust thecable linkage accordingly andrepeat the test. Next, disconnect thelower station and connect the upperstation making sure that the cable iswound around the drum exactly asthe lower station. Repeat this testand compare the readings. Adjustthe upper cable until both stationcables read the same pull pressureneeded to move the power unit.Connect the lower station. Mostlikely your problem is solved.— Harry Swieca

Three’s Battery Set-up

Q: Factory set-up on my 1980 twinengine 9m (30’) SeaRay is twobanks with one for the start battery,and two batteries for house and thesecond engine. There is a 1-2-Bothswitch for bank 2, and a combineron-off switch for banks 1-2. A three-bank charger uses only two of theoutputs. What is the best set-up forthis boat when used for cruising andfishing, usually at anchor? Michael Patria, “Fish N Bones,” Stratford,Connecticut

A: The best battery set-up for yourboat is a slight variation on whatyou already have. I’d alter your set-up to include a single house bankcomprised of deep-cycle batteries(total capacity sized for your situa-tion), and then install two dedicatedstart batteries. All house loads comefrom the house bank, and all charg-

ing sources go into the house bank.Installing a single bank system moni-tor (Link 10 or equivalent) provideseverything you need to know aboutthat bank. The combiner youalready have should temporarily joinall three banks (house and two start-ing) under the influence of a charg-ing source (alternators or docksidecharger) to keep the start batteriestopped up.— Kevin Jeffrey

Reconditioning I-6 Mercs

Q: I’m about to embark on theprocess of reconditioning twinMerCruiser 165 engines for my1980 Bertram. As I have somemechanical knowledge, I plan tooutsource the tougher jobs, but doall the reassembly. Are there anyspecial considerations? Also, I havehad continual problems with theelectrical shift changing system.When I bought the boat, this wasnot connected and the wires fromthe shift unit had been cut. Mark Joyce, “Billabong ,” Berkeley Vale,Australia

A: Model 165 MerCruiser (sixcylinder inline) was replaced by the4.3L V-6 in the mid-80s. Parts torebuild the longblock assembly arereadily available through any authorized Mercury dealer. You’llalso need two manuals: 1980 165Service Manual, part number 90-95693; and 1980 MC1 Drive Service manual,

DAVI

D AI

KEN

Help line 1 -888-658-2628Talkback Q&A

part number 90-86137. There are three possible shiftswitch configurations used on your engine. A shift cutoutswitch mounts under the shift cable on the transomassembly and connects to the distributor breaker pointwire at the negative connection of the ignition coil (blackwire) at one end, and engine ground at the other end.This switch should stall the motor when shifting out ofgear only. Alternatively, a reverse lock switch connects inseries to the “up” circuit on the power trim pump (bluewires). This switch mounts on the reverse lock valve ontransom assembly and prevents trimming up the drivewhile shifting into reverse. The third configuration is anelectric shift kit, offered in the 1980s for boats with verylong remote control cables. Since parts are no longeravailable, kits must be replaced with traditional remotecontrol and cables. — Steve Auger, Mercury Marine

Trickle Charging Multiple Batteries

Q: During storage I want to hook four boat batteries toa single battery charger to keep fully charged. Howshould they be connected? Thomas Stevens , Plymouth, Massachusetts

A: If the batteries are the same voltage and roughlythe same capacity, vintage and condition, you can con-nect them in parallel (positives joined together and nega-tives joined together)and charge them as ifthey were one batterybank. There’s no need tokeep the charger on allthe time, as all you aretrying to do is replacethe losses from periodicself-discharge. Here’s theroutine: once a monthconnect the batteries inparallel, top them up tofull capacity with a regu-lated battery charger,then disconnect the posi-tive wires so they areelectrically isolated dur-ing the time betweencharges. If the batteriesare of different capacity,vintage and condition,however, it’s better totop up each battery indi-vidually once a month or so.

— Kevin Jeffrey



LOCKING HITCH: To guardagainst theft of your trailer, or thehitch assembly when not connectedto the trailer, drill a hole in the endof the hitch pin and attach a heavy-duty lock.Ben Owen, “Dolphin,” Oshkosh, Wisconsin

BILGE DRAIN:Wooden boatswere commonlyfitted with a gar-board plug,which is a thru-hull fitting with aremovablethreaded plug

positioned to drain the bilge drywhen the boat was “on the hard.”This is one useful item entirely over-looked in fiberglass boats. Installingthe plug before launching is the keyto preventing sinking the boat.

RUST -CHECK WRAPPER: To pre-vent tools from rusting, apply a thincoat of light oil then wrap each indi-vidually in plastic wrap.

SEACOCK ID: There won’t be anyguessing onboard after you tag allseacock connections. Easy to make,

thesepaperlabels arelaminated,then cutinto stripsandsecurelyattached to

the seacock barrel with commoncable ties.

HANDY NUT KEEPER: To lessenthe chance of losing a large nut oroil filler plug into the lower recessesof the engine compartment, use a

holder. Inthe bot-tom of a500ml(17oz)plastictube (i.e.

margarine container), cut a holeslightly larger than the nut. Hold thetub securely under the nut whenremoving or reinserting. Drill a smallhole in the tub’s side and hang it ona cup hook near the engine. Bert Small, Salt Spring Island, BritishColumbia

A LINE WHEN NEEDED: A quick-to-grab line orga-nizer is a lot bet-ter than sortingthrough a tan-gled web of linesin the bottom ofa locker.

TECH TIPS HOSE BAND-AID: To temporarilyrepair a leaking plastic hose or acracked plastic hose barb, dab onsome 3M 4200 Fast Cure. Routinelycheck the fitting when operating andreplace as soon as possible.

A STEP UP: When the stern rail isjust too high to reach from the tran-

som add astep. The fold-ing step pic-tured isGarelick partnumber27515,mounted on aShannon 47.

NOT PRETTY, BUT IT WORKS:When yourrunabout does-n’t have centercleats toanchor amooring cover,and the nowshrunken can-vas coverdoesn’t over-lap the gun-

wale anymore, a few large plasticbottles half-filled with water shouldhold the “wrapper.”

CABLE T IE -UPS:Use quick-releaseVelcro ties tosecurely mountcoiled cables,wires or lines.

TECH TIPS WANTEDIf you have a boat-tested tip you’dlike to share, send complete informa-tion along with your name, boatname and home port to: DIY Tech Tips, P.O. Box 22473,Alexandria, VA 22304 Or email to [email protected]

GELCOAT SPRAYTECHNIQUESFollow these simple stepsfor a professional sprayedfinish to your fiberglassrepair.

G elcoat is the pigmented polyesterresin used as a surface finish for

most newfiberglass boats. Though gel-coat resin has slightly different proper-ties than the type used for laminating,like all polyester resins it requires theintroduction of styrene monomer toalter it into a usable form. This givesthe resin its liquid properties and thefamiliar smell.

Liquid gelcoat resin is applied bybrushing or spraying. For scratches,gouges and other small “spot”repairs, brushing is fast and doesn’trequire a major equipment clean up.Larger repairs are best finished withsprayed gelcoat.

The chemical process that occurswhen gelcoat turns from a liquid formto a hard, brittle plastic is known aspolymerization. Polymerizing plasticsrequires that you observe a few sim-ple concepts when working with thismaterial. Chemicals pose a healthrisk, and you should read and heedall manufacturers’ data sheets for safehandling. Catalyzed polymers reactwith chemicals to initiate the curingprocess, resulting in the liquid resinbecoming “set” into a hard plastic.Heat is the by-product of this process,and the temperature of working condi-tions affects the rates of cure (polymer-ization). Cured resin is impervious tomost chemicals. Therefore, you mustclean up your tools and equipmentprior to the plastic curing.

There are two varieties of gelcoatresin. Boat manufacturers spray an

air-inhibited gelcoat into a mold.Following the gelcoat application, thelaminates are laid in place. This effec-tively seals the gelcoat from theatmosphere, where the resin cures inthe absence of atmospheric gases.Conversely, in repair applications,gelcoat resin is the finish coat.Therefore, you must use an air dryinggelcoat that allows the resin to fullycure when exposed to air. Failure touse the correct resin or to account forthis “air dry” and polymerization willnot occur, despite doing everythingelse correctly.

Resins are also formulated withvarying percentages of styrene. Lessstyrene means the liquid is more vis-cous. This works well for brushingapplications. More styrene means athinner mixture, suitable for spraying.Therefore, be sure to purchase an air-drying spraying gelcoat formulation.

Spraying gelcoat resin requiresthe following tools and materials:safety gear including respirator, safetyglasses, gloves and apparel; mixingequipment, including pots (imperviousto styrene) and stir sticks; qualitymasking tape (i.e. 3M 233+), mask-ing paper or painter’s masking film;gelcoat resin in the appropriate color,styrene, methyl ethyl ketone peroxide(MEKP), fiberglass cleaner, and PVA(poly vinyl alcohol used as an airinhibitor) and air dry (both optional);spray equipment; acetone, lacquerthinner, and rags for clean up.

Simple and cheap small dispos-able self-contained sprayers work bestfor gelcoat resin. Higher quality sprayequipment used primarily for paintshave a flow needle size that is toosmall for gelcoat. If you decide to usesuch equipment, you’ll need thelargest fluid flow orifice/needle themanufacturer provides for that gun.Experimentation may be necessary toachieve the best results.

Successful gelcoat sprayingdemands proper preparation of therepair zone. Most important is remov-ing all contaminates on the surface.After filling and fairing the repair,


SH O P T A L K

Inexpensive siphon spray guns, Badgermodel 250-4 (left) and Canadian madeCritter model 118, both cost US$40 orless, are the best choice for gelcoatrepair jobs. Catalyzed gelcoat is suckedup the tube by the air passing over theventuri, creating low pressure.Varyingthe height of the venturi increases ordecreases the flow rate.

DeVilbiss guns, a siphon feed touch upgun (left) and a small gravity feed gunwith a regulator for setting compressoroutput, costing $200 to $300 each, arebetter suited for paints as they clog eas-ily and easily ruined by poor cleaning.

mask the surrounding area, andrepeatedly clean the surface to besprayed with fiberglass prep cleaner.Many people use acetone or lacquerthinner for this step. Just be careful todo this a number of times, using aclean rag each time, so that contami-nates are actually removed, not justspread around on the surface.

Prepare your gelcoat for spray-ing. Proper spraying consistencydepends upon the equipment you areusing. Gelcoat is generally thick andviscous. Thinning may be accom-plished in a number of ways. Styreneis the thinner of choice, since it’s amajor component of the resin any-way. Since acetone is a diluent thatdecreases the viscosity of the gel, butis really a foreign substance to the fin-ished product, it’s not recommended.Acetone flashing out of sprayed gelmay be responsible for pinholes left inthe surface upon curing.


Mix enough gel to properly meterout the appropriate amount of hard-ener (catalyst). A common mistake isto use a very small quantity of geland overcatalyze the mixture.Calibrate your mix beforehand to pre-vent this. A simple method would beto take a known unit of measure (acalibrated pill cup works well). Usingthe MEKP dispenser, count drops intothe pill cup until you have registereda marked quantity. Divide the quantityby the number of drops to come to aquantity per drop figure. This allowsyou to accurately determine the num-ber of drops of MEKP you require forthe amount of gel used. The impor-tance of this cannot be overstated.The most common mistake is overcat-alyzed resin. For spraying, 2% MEKPby volume is recommended.

The significant variable not men-tioned is that of temperature. Sincethe reaction is exothermic (a chemicalchange that releases heat), ambienttemperature creates major differencesin cure rate. Colder temperaturesrequire a higher percentage of cata-lyst. This increases the temperature ofthe cure, allowing it to proceed prop-erly. Conversely, high temperatures

require a decrease in catalyst percent-age. Manufacturers of resin publishrecommendations for catalyst ratiosbased on temperature. Never attemptto spray gelcoat at less than 15.5°C(60°F).

When mixing MEKP into gel, bevery careful not to splash it onto your-self. Eyes are particularly vulnerableto the danger of this chemical, so beextra cautious. Mixing should be com-plete. The major difference in viscositybetween the MEKP and gelcoatrequires that you be diligent in stirringit around sufficiently to ensure goodmixing.

Once mixed, you have limitedtime to complete the application andclean up, so be sure you are 100%ready before mixing the resin. Curetime varies, depending on the resinsystem, from one to two hours for athinly sprayed film. Don’t waste anytime getting your equipment cleaned.The stuff left over in your mixing potor spray gun will generate more heatand cure significantly quicker than thesprayed repair. Leave any excessresin in a fireproof container to fullycure.

Gelcoat resin has a propertyknown as thixotropy. This means thatit will become more liquid as it’s agi-tated, and more gel like when undis-turbed. Spraying creates a thixotropictransformation in the resin, whichbecomes thicker and more sag resis-tant once it hits the repair. This prop-erty allows spraying on a very thicklayer of gel without incurring sags.This also means that orange peel(bumpy surface) is a natural conditionfor sprayed gelcoat. Luckily, wet sand-

ing and buffing when fully curedachieves a high gloss paint-like finish.

Spraying is not difficult. Itrequires sufficient pressure and vol-ume of air to get the liquid out of thegun and onto the repair. Excessivepressure results in lots of over spray,as the gel bounces off the repair.Disposable small compressors easilyprovide sufficient pressure, probably30psi to 40psi. Larger repairs requiregreater quantities of everything,including air volume supplied bylarger compressors.

A product called Patchaid byCook Composites, allows reducingthe viscosity of the gel to the pointwhere it’s sprayed much like paint,with minimum surface defects (such asorange peel); an appealing option incertain applications.

Styrene in gel is disastrous tosome plastics used on boats, particu-larly polycarbonate or acrylic win-dows. Make absolutely certain thatyou contain over spray or prevent itfrom contacting windows, vinyl tape,upholstery and anything else that maybe attacked by solvents. If you shouldget over spray on adjacent gelcoat,wipe it off with acetone or lacquerthinner before it cures. (Don’t use ace-tone or lacquer thinner on any othertypes of plastic though.)

Leave your repair to cureovernight, then wet sand with 400grit paper, followed by 600 then800, then buff and wax.About the author: Wayne Redditt has 20-yearsexperience in design, construction and repairof small craft built of wood, composites andmetals. He teaches engineering technology pro-grams at Georgian College of Applied Arts andTechnology, Barrie, Ontario.

Shop Talk Resist the temptation to sand spot repairs with your handor fingers, or hurry the job using a power sander.Alwayssand with a backing block of rubber, wood or hard felt.

Cover and protect untreated surfaces when spraying gelcoat with 3M Marine Scotch Ready-Mask, a convenientpre-taped plastic film.

After wet sanding, buff the repair using a rubbing compound,then wax.

A syringe allowsaccurate mea-suring of theamount ofMEKP requiredto catalyze thegelcoat resin.

Preval, a dispos-able spray gunavailable atauto-body sup-ply shops andsome BoatUSstores, comeswith its own sup-ply of propellant,thus eliminatingthe need for acompressor.


cracks can be repairedbut they often return at the same loca-tion and, if the crack extends into ananti-skid surface, a repair may look

worse than the original damage.Cracks in the hull, or any large

cracks on deck should beinvestigated by the boat dealer

and the complaint recorded asearly as possible during the warrantyperiod in case the condition worsens.The boat owner should consider hav-ing a qualified marine surveyorinspect the damage and provide areport on behalf of the owner.

Osmosis (“blisters”) is a problemthat may or may not be covered.Some builders warrant against blister-ing for a specific number of years;some for the life of the hull. Someboatbuilders have covered blisterrepairs as a gesture of goodwill,exclusive of warranty, to avoid badpublicity or a lawsuit. Again, seek theadvice of a marine surveyor and keepgood records. Often, the writtenrecord becomes the basis for a resolu-tion.

Be careful when working on hullsthat are guaranteed against osmosis.The warranty fine print may specifi-cally exclude coverage if you sandthe hull prior to applying antifoulingpaint. There are “no sand” prep sys-tems, but you may not achieve satis-factory adhesion of the bottom paint.

EnginesEngines are treated as a completelyseparate entity with an independentwarranty registration. Though theboatbuilder is responsible forinstalling the engine properly, thedealer is usually responsible for carry-ing out the required pre-delivery

inspection (PDI) and completing thepaperwork for the engine warrantyregistration.

The engine manufacturer’s autho-rized dealers must complete the requi-site PDI procedures, which usuallyrequire that a completed checklist bereturned to the engine manufacturertogether with the warranty registra-tion. Without the proper PDI and war-registration, you don’t have an enginewarranty. Where a dealer is not anauthorized service depot for theengine, it’s the dealer’s responsibilityto employ an authorized technician.

Read your engine warranty care-fully. Sometimes, a warranty specifiesthat an authorized dealer perform a20-hour or 100-hour service, or thewarranty is void. This first service isdesigned to complement the PDI anddetect symptoms before they lead tomajor problems. This service usuallycorresponds to the first scheduled oilchange. It’s in your best interest tohave this service done by an autho-rized dealer, regardless of whether it’srequired under the warranty.

Occasionally, problems with theboatbuilder’s engine installation, suchas alignment faults or a poorly engi-neered engine exhaust system, canlead to mechanical problems. In thesecases, the dealer is in the best posi-tion to handle the problem. Stay calm,express your concerns, documentthem and demand the best service.Good communication is key.

Engine warranties typically donot cover the cost of boat handlingduring the repair. Your original dealermay step in to cover hauling,cradling, trucking or launching in theinterest of customer satisfaction.

[ By Nick Bailey ]

U nlike cars and recreational vehi-cles, boats are built of compo-

nents and systems made by a widerange of individual and separatemanufacturers. An owner of a new orpreviously owned boat may presumethat the boat is covered by a seam-less and comprehensive warranty.This is rarely the case. When a sales-person refers to a “warranty,” gener-ally it’s a collection of warranties pro-vided by each of the manufacturers ofall the installed equipment, engines,gen-set, steering and control systems,refrigerator, pumps, MSD, stove,instruments and gauges, windshield,deck fittings, cabin hardware, can-vas, trailer, et al. The only warrantynormally offered by the boatbuilder isfor the boat hull, deck and structure.Understanding the terms and condi-tions of all the manufacturers’ war-ranties is the key to pursuing success-ful warranty repairs.

Boat StructureMost boat manufacturers have limitedwarranties with respect to cosmetics.Details such as hairline cracks, gel-coat voids or air bubbles, fading ofgloss or color are often specificallyexcluded. These problems are consid-ered strictly cosmetic and are com-mon to most fiberglass boats. Hairline

BALANCING BOAT WARRANTIESRead your boat warranty and you’ll find outwhat’s covered and what is not. You’ll alsolearn that “manufacturer” refers to manyunrelated companies, not just the companythat built your boat.

Other EquipmentNew boats are built with compo-nents and equipment supplied byOEMs (original equipment manufac-turers) and installed in the boat bythe boatbuilder. When these itemsfail, the dealer looks to the OEM tosupport the warranty claim. MostOEM warranties provide for “nocharge” replacement of the part, butoffer no compensation for the laborto troubleshoot or remove andreplace the component, or for otherrelated costs. Here’s where thedealer often absorbs extra costs topreserve the customer relationship.

Other Options, Other DealersWhen a dealer cannot or will nothelp, or the boat is in a location toodistant for the selling dealer to ser-vice, you have the option of contact-ing the boat manufacturer for assis-tance. It can recommend another ser-vicing dealership, or mediate a dis-pute. It’s important that you establishgood communications with a servicefacility you can trust.

Sometimes the nature of a repairrequires skills beyond the dealer’s

service department’s capability. Theboatbuilder may request that youidentify a qualified, independentboatyard that will submit a quote forthe warranty repair. Here again,there may be costs that are not cov-ered by the warranty. Many buildershave preset compensation rates forrepairs. Other costs could come outof your pocket.

The same is true for engine war-ranty problems. The independentboatyard didn’t make any moneyselling you the boat, so you cannotexpect it to absorb any costs. Don’tbe surprised if a yard is less thanthrilled to undertake your enginewarranty problems. Most repairs arebilled “time and materials.” Butengine manufacturer’s flat rate laborallowances for warranty work rarelycover the actual labor costs involved.With most engine warranty jobs,independent yards must eithercharge the boatowner for the addedlabor or lose money while they waitto get paid by the manufacturer. Atleast one major engine manufacturermakes a point of pouncing on anyminor mistake in the claim process

as a reason to deny the warrantyclaim. It’s not uncommon for an inde-pendent yard or service shop torequest prepayment from the boa-towner with reimbursement to followwhen, and if, the manufacturerapproves the charges under its war-ranty policy.

Extended WarrantiesYou can purchase extended war-ranties on your boat and/or engine.These contracts are actually insur-ance policies and are usually offeredby a third party. They can be rela-tively expensive, but if needed cansave a fortune. Extended warrantiesare commonly purchased at any timewithin the original warranty period.Extended warranties offered by themajor engine manufacturers are pur-chased and registered at any autho-rized dealer. Like any insurance pol-icy, it’s a matter of cost versus secu-rity, and no one can predict whetheryou will need it. �About the author: Nick Bailey is a 25-year vet-eran of the boat repair business and is servicemanager of Bristol Marine in Port Credit,Ontario.


• Put it in Writing!When dealing with any warranty issues, put yourcomplaints in writing. It’s easier to keep track ofproblems and also protects you in case somethingdeemed minor at first discovery turns into a majorproblem just outside the warranty period. It’s thedate of the complaint, not the date of the repair,that must fall within the warranty period.If you are unhappy with the dealer’s response,request the option of making your own repairarrangements through an independent shop. Youwill need to submit a written estimate to the dealerfor approval. In some cases, the dealer may decideto work directly with an independent shop on acontract basis.

•Don’t Be Afraid to Go to the TopAt an overworked service department the squeakywheel does indeed get the grease. If the service

WARRANTY REMEDIESmanager is having trouble getting to your problem,go to the general manager or owner. If the dealer-ship won’t look after things in a satisfactory manner,contact the manufacturer. Start with customer service.Failing that, customer relations is the next stop. Thecompany president is your last resort. Unfortunately,unless you are a big campaign contributor, a govern-ment official is not likely to be of much help, but theUnited States Coast Guard does have a defect notifi-cation program for specific safety problems, andthere is a USCG Infoline at 800/368-0816. BoatUS(Boat Owner’s Association of the United States) alsooffers its consumer advocate to its members(www.boatus.com).

•Be Reasonable, Stay CalmTry to remember your boat is supposed to be fun.Don’t get your knickers in a twist over minor gelcoatflaws, burned out light bulbs or loose screws. But, ifyour new stern drive grenades, and you spend a cold

night at sea awaiting rescue, and your dealershipdoesn’t immediately drop what it’s doing to look afteryou, no one should be surprised to get a call fromyour lawyer. Screaming and yelling won’t help — theperson on the phone is not the person responsible forthe problem. A sternly worded letter will always getattention.

• Don’t Do It Yourself!Other than tightening loose screws and other normalminor maintenance items, don’t fix it yourself unlessyou need to do something to minimize damage or thethreat to your safety, such as stopping a leak. Don’tservice your own engine during the warranty period.Messing with a problem yourself may void your war-ranty. Nonetheless, you can help the repair processalong by investigating and accurately assessing theproblems. A vague complaint is, to most servicedepartments, particularly annoying. Remember, oncethe boat is out of warranty, you can go back to fixingthings yourself.

Warranties


TROUBLESHOOTINGTANK SENDERS A fuel tank sender is oneof those devices that eitherworks or doesn’t. When itdoesn’t, you long for a dip-stick. Follow these steps totest and install a new one.

[ By Jan Mundy ]

I s the fuel tank half full, or halfempty? Many boaters have been

stranded by an empty fuel tankbecause they didn’t know how muchfuel was in their boat’s tank. Often thefault is with the fuel tank sender, notthe gauge.

Conventional float-arm style fueltank senders consist of a small wiperarm that moves up and down withchanging fuel levels and a processorthat sends electronic impulses to thegauge for analog or digital output.The arm rides on a rheostat. Olderunits have a wire-wound rheostat.Vibration and shock eventually erodesand breaks the wire, creating incor-rect readings on the gauge. Corrosionof the unit also contributes to erraticreadings. Another type of sender hasa ceramic rheostat screened with con-ductive ink. While it doesn’t havewires to break, the wiper graduallywears where it crosses the rheostatfrom debris contained in the fuel. Thisoccurs with a wire-wound unit as well.

Continuity Check Disconnect the DC power supply first.

Before removing the sender, check allwires and connections at the tank andgauge. Corroded or loose terminals,or a poor ground, may be at fault. Ifnot properly grounded, the gaugepegs out at full and stays there. If thesystem proves fault-free, your next stepis to check the continuity of the senderwith a multimeter (VOM).

Disconnect the sender from thegauge. Attach a VOM, the positive(red) lead to the sender’s output postand the ground (black) lead to thesender’s flange on the tank. Mostmarine fuel senders have a resistanceof 33ohms to 240ohms. Using thegauge as your guide, the VOM read-ing on the resistance scale shouldindicate 33ohms with a full tank,240ohms at empty and somewherebetween 80ohms to 120ohms whenhalf full. A more accurate test is tounscrew the sender from the tank,attach it to a VOM (as above), andmanipulate the float arm, moving it tothe full (up) and empty (down) posi-tion while noting the resistance on theVOM. If the sender checks out, thegauge may be at fault. But beforeremoving, obtain another sender thatyou know works and connect it to thegauge. Troubleshooting fuel gaugesnormally requires a decade box andthe services of a marine electronics’specialist.

Match Don’t MixBefore purchasing a replacement,you’ll need to measure the fuel tankdepth. Senders are available for vary-ing tank depths. Manufacturers don’trecommend mixing the resistance of agauge and sender. For best perfor-mance, a 240ohm gauge, for exam-ple, must be matched with a 240ohmsender. Your dealer can help deter-mine the correct sender if you knowthe brand and model number.

Conventional float-arm style fuelsenders are less reliable, especiallyon large horizontal tanks, than moreexpensive probe-type units with nomoving parts. A tank with a depth of41cm (16"), for example, has a23cm (9") bracket and 30cm (12")float arm. Vibration and signal ampli-fication from float arms longer than51cm (20"), the recommended maxi-

mum, can break or cause erraticreadings. For powerboat use, select asender with a heavy metal bracket toabsorb some of the shock frompounding.

New senders install in the samestandard SAE five-hole flange open-ing making the installation easy. Usethe same wires to connect the sensorto the fuel gauge, provided they arein good shape and are marine grade(many older boats have automotive-style wiring.) Float-arm style fuelsenders are more difficult to installdue to accessibility. Be sure to mountthe float arm correctly so it doesn’ttouch the tank sides and it swings inthe right direction. Fuel sender kits areavailableand helpto elimi-nate someof theguesswork.

E L E C T R O N I C S Q: My 1975 11m (36') Uniflite has two newfuel tanks and one fuel gauge connected to atoggle switch to select which tank to display. Thegauge reads “full” only if I remove the groundwire from the gauge, leaving the “S” and “I”posts connected to the tank sensor and the igni-tion respectively. Can you provide the properwiring for this setup? H. Michael Owen, “NoBig Deal,” Oakley, California

Wiring schematic shows one fuelgauge used to register fuel levels intwo tanks.

C

S

Toggle switch, 15 AMP, single pole,double through, common terminal to gauge "s"

Fuel gauge

Fuel Tank BFuel Tank A

I

ONE SENSOR, TWO TANKS

Common float-arm type fuel sender.

Probe type sender has no moving parts.Constructed of one small tube inside alarger tube, the inner tube acts as acapacitor, measuring air volume as fuellevel changes in the tank and activatesthe sending unit.

19mm / 3/4" Dowels 43cm / 17" long

7cm / 23/4" 0 Cup hole

Inside 71cm / 28"

33cm / 13"70cm / 271/2"

Inside 34cm / 131/2"

12mm / 1/2" Plywood

Removable table support / locker lid (C)

Lid (A)

Table top (B)

Sea rails 38mm x 6mm / 11/2 x 1/4

Finger hole 38mm / 11/2"


P R O J E C T S

DRILLING HOLES IN BOATS

I became reacquainted with dinghysailing last summer when I acquiredan old Sunfish. A fun boat in ablow, it lacked dry storage for mykeys, wallet and other stuff.Utilitubes from Rabud (Tel: 954/925-4199, Web: www.rabud.com)were the perfect storage solution.They’re made of polycarbonate, andthey feature a watertight, twist-lock,gasketed deck plate. I installed thesmallest model, the Utilitube 8(US$20.50). They are available infour sizes from 20cm (8") to 67cm(26-1/2") in length.

Modifications often requiredrilling a hole in your boat, a some-what unnerving experience for theuninitiated. But like any precisework, after you’ve drilled a fewholes and gained experience, itbecomes just a means to completeanother project. Regardless of whathardware you’re installing, if itrequires drilling through fiberglass,use these simple steps as a guide-line. — By Jan Mundy

Step 1: Trace the OD of thetube. This is the cutting line.

Step 3: Insert a stiff rod (Iused copper rod) to measureheight and width clearances.

Step 6: Dry fit the Utilitube.Use a wood file to remove anyhigh spots.

Step 4: Drill a 12mm (1/2")pilot hole along the cutting line.This becomes the starting positionfor the jigsaw.

Step 5: Insert the blade ofthe jigsaw into the drilled hole andbegin to cut. Be sure to use asharp blade. I used a 7 TPI to cutthrough the foam-backed deck.

Step 2: As there wasno under deck access, Iwas drilling blind so I firstdrilled a 6mm (1/4”) pilothole in the center to checkfor height and width clearances. If the positioning was incorrect, asealant patch, perhaps even mounting a cleat, would hide the error.

Step 7: Mark the outsideperimeter of the deck plate. Drillthe holes for machine screws. Todo this, drill one hole at a time,and insert the fastener. When allare drilled, remove the tube.

Step 9: Dab some 3M 4200(or equivalent) polyurethanesealant into the fastener holes andapply a bead of silicone onto theunderside of the deck plate, andinsert the Utilitube.

Step 10: Success. Dry storage for my stuff.

Step 8: Clean the matingsurfaces with solvent.

CONVERTIBLE TABLE

Materials• (B) Table top, 1 piece 33cm x70cm (13" x 27-1/2"), 16mm(5/8") plywood • (C) Support lid, 1 piece 34cm x71cm (13-1/2" x 28"), 12mm(1/2") plywood• Legs, 2 pieces 19mm x 43cm(3/4" x 17") dowel• Fiddles 6mm x 38mm x 1.5m(1/4" x 1-1/2" x 5') mahogany• 4 Spring clips for dowel holders• 1 Friction catch• 2 Folding shelf brackets• 2 Butt hinges• Varnish


Projects

“Sea Eagle,” a 6.7m (22') con-verted lifeboat, was in need of acockpit table, so I designed one thatutilized an existing cockpit locker,and fits snugly in a 5cm (2") spaceunder the locker lid.

Made of plywood, the foldingtable top (B) attaches to the under-side of the locker lid (A) by twosliding shelf brackets. Holes cut intothe top hold plastic cups. Legs madeof wooden dowel support the tablefront. When not needed, these stowbetween the table front and lockerlid, secured by spring clamps.Mahogany or teak fiddle rails com-plete the table. To support the legs,cleat stock was glued to the insidelocker edge and a plywood lidmade to fit the inside dimensions.All components were finished withmultiple coats of varnish. I lateradded a 30cm (12") piece of PVCpipe to hold an umbrella.— Bert Small, Salt Spring Island, British Columbia

A CHILD’S STATEROOM

So you’ve found a boat your family can afford, but it’s notso large that each child can have their own stateroom.The layout allows each child their own area at night, orduring the day if needed, yet there are no bulkheads toseparate their area from the rest of the cabin.

There is a simple method you can use to providesome measure of privacy anytime, day or night, to eachchild. A simple curtain that is pulled around their area iseasy to make. It doesn’t keep out sound, but it does keepout prying eyes.


In the past whilesailing with childrenaboard, I found set-tees, both port andstarboard work wellfor boys, and a quar-terberth is preferablefor girls. I say thisbecause girls need alittle more privacythan most boys, and aquarterberth serves thisfunction well. The stan-dard quarterberth has

walls on three sides,with only an opening

toward the main cabinarea. This allows the girl to

tape pictures up, or to store pri-vate things away as desired.

Whereas the settee seats, which turn into a bunk berth atnight, have shelves behind them for boy’s things, or some-times storage behind them for clothing or other things of apersonal nature. Most quarterberths are wider than onegirl needs, so add some small plastic storage bins for herstuff as well.

Select a fabric for the curtains that is bright, reason-ably flexible and preferably water-resistant. Hanging thecurtains is a simple task at reasonable cost. I used aRecmar Shower Curtain Track kit for each area. Availablefrom BoatUS (US$15.99, catalog item number 176122),these 1.8m (72") long kits contain the aluminum trackand all needed hardware. The curtains are your choice.The track is easily bent in surprisingly small arcs that elimi-nate sharp corners. The curtain carriers travel freely, andthe track fits right against the overhead. When not in use,the curtains are simply pulled back to one end and tied inplace.— Donald Boone, Sequim, Washington

If you would like to share one of your own boat-tested projects, sendyour articles to DIY PROJECTS via mail or e-mail. Include a brief expla-nation and photos and/or sketches (don’t worry, we’ll redraw the art).Also, please include your mailing address and a daytime phone numberor email address. If we publish your project, we’ll send you between$25 and $150, depending on the published length.

MAIL: P.O. Box 22473 A lexandr ia , VA 22304

Email : in fo@diy-boat . com

PROJECTS WANTED


[ Story and photos by Jan Mundy ]

G elcoat, the exterior finish onfiberglass boats, is a porous mix

of polyester resins and pigments thatmust be sealed from the damagingeffects of ultra-violet (UV) rays, salt,dirt and weather. Neglect it, and itbecomes more porous, resins oxi-dize and what remains is a faded,dull finish.

There is no magic wipe-on,wipe-off remedy that removes oxida-tion and has a gloss that lasts a life-time. Achieving a like-new shine isn’tvery difficult, and doesn’t require alot of extra work, especially if youinvest in quality materials and tools.We discovered this after spending aday with Ray Lemieux of 3MMarine, an expert in boat and auto-motive detailing, and DIY columnistand former marine technician profes-sor Wayne Redditt.

Do these four steps to achieve afactory-new shine: wash to removeall contaminants; mechanicallyrepair the gelcoat by sanding orcompounding; chemically bond aprotectant to the gelcoat to protectfrom further oxidation; and maintainthe surface to extend longevity ofprotective coating.

STEP 1Scrub the surface thoroughly with aquality boat soap and water using awash mitt or abrasive Scotch-Britesponge. Flush with freshwater. Don’tuse automotive soaps or householdsoaps, which may strip the wax ordamage the gelcoat. If the applica-tion instructions recommend using acertain cleaner with a specific protec-tant (i.e. wax) to obtain the desiredfinish, follow the recommendations.

Use the “Oxidation Test” to deter-mine condition of gelcoat. For sur-faces in good condition that onlyrequire rewaxing, go to Step 3. Foroxidized gelcoat, wipe with a solventto remove silicone, wax or glazebuildup. Spray the surface withwater, which should wet out ratherthan bead if all finishes are success-fully removed.

Two options for repairing oxi-dized gelcoat are: fill the cavitieswith a quality wax or polish (here-after referred to as “wax”); or knockdown the high spots, either by com-pounding or sanding until the surfaceis flat, then follow with a filler. Justapplying a wax on heavily oxidized

3M M

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gelcoat is a short-term repair. The sur-face has sheenwhen viewed fromthe side, but nodeep luster, andrain in time washes

away the wax. Oxidized gelcoat,whether light or medium, is bestrepaired by compounding or sand-ing to obtain a flat surface, filledwith a glaze (or wax if a one-stepproduct), then followed with a wax.

Figure 1 Effect of sun’s rays on gelcoat: (left)Smooth, flat surface of new gelcoatreflects light just like a mirror; (right) UVbreaks down the molecules, rain washesout the minute pieces that break away,creating a rough surface that reflectslight at an angle and looks dull.

Reviving your boat’s glossy finish and creating afactory-new appearance is surprisingly easy if youuse the proper techniques. Follow these steps for along-lived durable shine.

Boat DetailingBoat Detailing

STEP 2If your boat’s gelcoat is lookingcloudy or lightly oxidized, you needto apply a color restorer. Heavieroxidation requires more aggressiverepairs, either by wet sanding fol-lowed by a finishing material(glaze), or use of a rubbing com-pound, then glazing. Take carewhen using compound. It is an abra-sive process that can damage the

OXIDATION TEST (top): No Oxidation: Mirror image ofruler reflected in the gelcoat. (middle)Light Oxidation: Bottle reflected in thegelcoat appears cloudy, showing thelabel, but you cannot read the type.(bottom) Heavy oxidation: Little or noreflection of bottle in the gelcoat.


JUST ADD WATER There’s an easier way to wash and rinse with 3MMarine Heavy Duty Hull and Deck Cleaner. It’s aconcentrated mix of powerful cleaning agentscontaining sodium hydroxide and methyl alcohol,some other acids, salts, soda and a surfactant.Designed to connect to a garden hose, a 947ml(32fl.oz) bottle mixes the equivalent of 15L (4gallons). Its ready-mix nozzle has two settings,mix and water. To use, turn on thewater, then point andshoot. First rinse, thenwash, then rinse off. Amolded eyebrow just abovethe nozzle outlet fine-tunesthe spray, directing it wher-ever you aim the nozzle.

PRODUCT REVIEW

If you cannot feel a scratch, it’s likely to disappear with a rubbingcompound or a light wet sanding.Scratches that are still visible afterbuffing (or sanding) require moreextensive repairs. [Ed: Refer to DIY1998-#1 or DIY “Fiberglass Clinic”CD for step-by-step instructions torepair scratches and dings.]

Start wet sanding with 800-grit wet/dry paper, then 1,000 grit,sanding in opposite directions. Followwith a one-step restorer or rubbingcompound to remove scratches fromsanding then a glaze to remove com-pounding swirls. Wait a few daysbefore waxing.

Buffing compounds are bestapplied with a wool compoundingpad on a slow-speed sander-polisheror drill. (See “Buff Stuff” on page 24for buffing techniques.) Squeezesome rubbing compound on the gel-coat, spread it around with the com-pound pad, then buff. Use lots ofcompound to keep the surface cool.

thin gelcoat, which is about20/1,000” thick or the thickness offive sheets of paper. Frequent com-pounding can remove too much gel-coat, exposing the laminate under-neath.

Color restorers and rubbingcompounds don’t like heat. Besidesbeing abrasive, they contain waterand petroleum distillate or otherlubricant that keeps the liquids wetand prevents excessive scratching. Ifapplied in the sun, it will haze. If ithazes, it’s too late to work it. A waxyou want to haze; a compound orglaze you don’t.

Products that restore gelcoatcolor and gloss don’t provide adurable UV-protective coating.Whether it’s a one-step or two-stepprocess, all products must be over-coated with a protectant wax after

washing with boat soap, within afew days and certainly no longerthan a week. You could wash thenwax without waiting, but the waxwouldn’t form as strong a chemicalbond to the gelcoat.

Heavily oxidized areas require morecompound. Buff an area about 15seconds per square foot to preventoverheating (burning) the gelcoat.Don’t be too aggressive. Plan on lessthan 30 minutes to buff one side of a9m (30') boat, for example.Compounding repairs the gelcoat,flattening the surface to reveal someshine but without any depth of image.With a rubbing compound, you willalways have some color transfer tothe pad. When compounding byhand, an old wool sock or sweaterremoves oxidation quicker. Or use athick pile terrycloth towel as it doesn’tscratch gelcoat. Protect untreatedareas from splatter during the buffingprocess with 3M Ready-MaskPainting Tape.

One-step restorer and waxremoves light surface oxidation andstains from leaves, bugs, birds andother fallout. Apply by hand with aterry towel or buff with a slow-speed1,500 to 2,500 rpm sander-polisheror a drill and a wool compoundingpad. Finished result (bottom) has adeep luster. As one-step restorers onlyoffer UV protection for one to threehand washes, follow within a weekwith a premium wax after a thoroughwashing.

Sometimes gelcoat is so badly oxidized nothing bringsback the shine. Before going the painting route, applyPenetrol, let it work the surface for 5 minutes, thenapply a rubbing compound. Apparently it conditions thegelcoat and helps to break up the oxidation. — James Turner, Pensacola, Florida


Different buffing pads are used when compound-ing and polishing. Wool pads are the most aggres-sive and the best for “cutting” gelcoat. Somedetailers prefer foam pads, black for compound-ing, yellow for polishing. Use terrycloth pads (notshown) for applying and removing wax.

When buffing a compound or glaze with a handdrill, operating it at 2,000 rpm to 3,000 rpm gen-erates more heat and gives better cutting action.

Polisher/sander with 15cm (6") disk is run at1,500 rpm. Keep the pad as flat as possible withpressure tilted on the trailing edge. A padweighted on its leading edge tends to climb andtake off and get caught in hardware. When work-ing on sharp corners, feather the edges andalways have the pad edge coming off the cornernot into the corner so it doesn’t dig in. Continually move the pad so it doesn’t rotate inone place and “burn” the gelcoat. Put a hand onthe surface. If it’s hot, it’s overworked.

Dressing Pads: Use a spur to clean pads beforefirst time use to remove loose fibers. Cleaning usedpads regularly to remove leftover sling doublestheir life. Wear a mask when spurring a pad.

Store used pads in Ziplock bags so they don’tbecome contaminated with other grits or dirt, dustand other contaminants. And don’t mix your grits.Use one pad for the compounding, one for glazing(if applying) and one for waxing.

BUFF STUFF

Apply the finishing mate-rial in the same manner ascompound, except use a pol-ishing pad. This glaze removesswirls from compounding andmechanically repairs the gel-coat to give a leveling andreflectivity that enhances theoverall color and finish. The result is ahigh gloss finish that closely duplicatesa factory-new appearance. There is nowax in this product — what you see iswhat you get! Within a week’s time,wash the surface and apply a qualitywax to protect the gelcoat from UVdamage.

Q: How do you know when you’ve buffed enough? A: “When the finish you receive is pleasant to you,” statesRay Lemieux. While you could continue buffing with finer andfiner grit compounds, at some point, it becomes impossible toachieve a higher gloss.

One-step ImperialCompound and FinishingMaterial takes half the worktime of the two-step compound-glaze application to achieve adeep luster that reflects shine.The key to using either productis the type of finish you wantand how it compares to therest of the boat. It has no UVprotection, so must be waxedwithin a week or so.

TIPGEL CONDITIONER


Wet it down! To lubricate thewax and extend the working time so itdoesn’t flash too quickly, spray on somewater.

After washing the boat andwhile the surface is still wet, spritz onClean & Shine (or similar protectant)and wipe off with a terry towel. Itboosts the gloss, removes water spotsand extends the life of the wax.

Rubbing compounds range from 1,000to 1,500 grit. It’s not propriety know-ledge what actual grit companies use intheir products, but the darker the color,the more aggressive the compound.

Apply wax with a terry towel or one with looped fibers, or an orbitalpolisher/waxer. A paste wax is moredurable than a liquid, typically lastingalmost three times longer before need-

ing reapplication. New paste formulations don’t requireaggressive rubbing, just wipe on, and wipe off. Always applywax in the shade or under cover, and allow time for it tochemically bond. To wax a 6m (20') boat, for example, youwould wax the entire boat, take a break, return and wipe off.

STEP 3Now that the gelcoat is repaired, you need to take the nec-essary steps to avoid oxidation from reoccurring. Protectingthe surface with a quality wax that contains good UV pro-tection is the solution.

Few modern waxes are pure and natural waxes, butcontain man-made ingredients instead. When properlyapplied, these protective “adhesives” chemically bond tothe gelcoat. A wax needs heat over a prolonged period oftime to bond to gelcoat. Ambient and surface temperatures,and the temperature of the wax are critical to achieving astrong bond. A boat baking in the hot summer sun couldhave a hull surface temperature slightly higher than the air,but on deck, surface temperatures could rise to 54°C(130°F) or higher. Under these conditions, the wax driesbefore it bonds to the gelcoat. When applied at cooler tem-peratures, however, around 10°C (50°F), the wax bonds,hardens and hazes, but it just takes longer.

STEP 4Wax now protects gelcoat from UV damage, but with everywashing the degree of protection diminishes. And if sur-faces aren’t wiped dry, water droplets act as sunlight mag-nifiers that penetrate and break down the protective waxlayer, once again exposing the gelcoat. A spray-on protec-tant helps maintain the wax coating by adding glossifiers tothe wax, enhancing the shine and removing water spots.


Surveying Bearings, Struts and Shafts

Grasp the shaft and propeller withyour hands and apply upward pres-sure while observing the shaft supportcutlass bearing mounted in the strutor stern tube. Replace the bearing ifmore than 1.5mm (1/16") of move-ment is detected. (See “BearingReplacement” on page 28 for properprocedures.) Examine the strut (ifequipped) for corrosion, cracks anddents. It should fasten securelyagainst the hull.

Check the shaft for straightnessby manually rotating it and observingthe length for wobble or an out ofround condition. Any visible out ofround condition causes vibration. Besure to check the shaft end at the pro-peller hub for wobble as well. If shaftwobble is easily visible, replacementis recommended. A prop shop candetermine if the shaft is repairable.

Checking for play in the cutlass bearing.

(top) A loosestrut can causebearing damage,excessive vibra-tion, shaft bend-ing, and otheralignment prob-lems, or couldbreak off com-pletely. (middle) Hairline cracks causedby hull flexing.The hull must be rein-forced in this area. (bottom) Worn cut-lass bearing.

Key Play Working from inside the enginecompartment, grasp the shaft withone hand where it enters the hull atthe shaft log and stuffing box. Graspthe shaft coupler with the other. Twistboth in opposite directions whileobserving the shaft’s driving key atthe base of the drive coupler formovement. Any movement indicateswear and will require complete dis-assembly for repair. Failure to makerepairs can result in loss of the pro-peller shaft during reverse operation.

Checking for movement in the keyway.

I nboard propulsion systems aredesigned with three main compo-

nents: the engine, transmission, andwhat is commonly referred to as thedrive train. The propeller, shaft, sup-port strut and/or stern tube and bear-ing, engine mounts and engine align-ment are the key components that arevital to trouble-free operation of yourboat and engine. Impact damageand wear to these parts can result inexcessive hull vibration, engine dam-age, poor performance and othermechanical problems. Inspectingdrive train components should bepart of your annual preseason main-tenance plan, or whenever the boatis hauled, or after a major engineoverall.

Prop Probe Start by inspecting the propeller.Minor nicks and dents on bladeedges can be tapped back intoshape using a small hammer and asteel backup block. Carefully smooththe repaired edges using a finegrade hand file, as filing too steep anangle on the blade edges causesthem to resonate or sing during oper-ation, and may weaken the blades.Bent blades require prop removal forrepairs by a prop shop. Check thatthe propeller nuts are secure, andthat a stainless-steel cotter pin hasbeen inserted into the shaft end. Ona sailboat equipped with a folding orfeathering prop, check that movingcomponents are not loose or wobbly.Excessive movement creates heavyvibration at any speed. [Ed: Detailson prop inspection, repairing andbalancing appear in DIY 2002-#2issue.]

A step-by-step survey and repair of the drive trainfrom the propeller to the engine coupling willkeep your inboard engine running smoothly andvibration free. [ By Harry Swieca ]

DRIVE TRAIN Tune -UpTune -Up


Worn shaft key mustbe replaced.

Mounting FixesYour engine fastensto the hull withshock-absorbingmounts constructedof cast metal. These

mounts have a long threaded stud bolt protruding from thecenter that fits through heavy metal side plates attached tothe cylinder block, usually at the four corners, though someinstallations use two mounts aft and only one forward.The stud is insulated from the cast metal housing by a solidrubber compound material. The hardness of this rubberincreases or decreases the mount’s ability to dampen vibra-tion. Two large nuts on the threaded stud adjust the engineposition and lock it into place. Lag bolts secure mounts tothe engine beds (or support stringers). Slotted holes allowmoving the engine side to side as needed during the align-ment process. Check tightness of all bolts and nuts. Loosemount adjusting nuts are a cause of vibration. If lag boltsturn in the holes repair or replace the engine beds. Onolder boats the wooded beds or fiberglass laminate oftenbecome waterlogged and delaminate.

Inspect rubber inserts on each mount for fuel and oildamage. Look for distortion on mounts or separation ofrubber where vulcanized to metal. If the rubber around the

(left) A typical engine mount with slotted base and adjustingnut that raises or lowers the engine to reposition the transmis-sion coupling. (right) Deteriorated engine bed.

center stud is bulging or distorts with the engine at lowestidle, or if the stud moves easily when the engine is moved,replace the mount.

If two mounts are damaged, replace all mounts. If onlyone mount is damaged, replace the mounts in pairs, eitherfront or rear. Some manufacturers use different hardness ofrubber for the front or rear mounts. Another model mayhave a heavier mount on the port rear side, lighter mounton the port rear, or may have heavier mounts on the portand starboard front, lighter on both rear mounts. Consultyour engine service manual, the engine manufacturer ordealer before purchasing new mounts.

When refitting, orient all mount slots in the samedirection to allow maximum adjustment. Mount repairsrequire a full engine alignment once the boat is back inthe water.

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11Issues

The Portable Solution



involved and what tools are needed.To remove the propeller, for example,a prop puller is a must. Removing thelocking nuts and whacking the hubwith a hammer is definitely not thedesirable method. Your boat yard ormarine store can supply you with thistool or recommend someone toremove the prop. Once you have theprop off, send it to a propeller shopfor balancing or repair. (Some boatsrequire rudder removal before pro-ceeding.)

Now remove the shaft couplerfrom the drive coupler. Remove thefour or five securing bolts from theback face of the coupler, and slidethe shaft slightly aft. Rotate the shaftmanually, and cut the seizing wirefrom the shaft set screws and removethem, and/or remove the key fromthe keyway.

A slide hammer (commonly usedin body shops) is needed for the nextstep. It consists of a shaft with aweight on it that comes up against astop. You screw the thread of the rodonto the thread on the end of pro-peller shaft, and then use the slidepuller. It consists of a large double-ended metal nut, with one sidethreaded to match the thread size ofthe tapered end of the shaft, and theother threaded to accept a threadedrod. Thread the nut onto the end ofthe prop shaft, then slip the slideweight on the rod, and secure with akeeper nut. To operate, the slideweight is brought forward thenslammed backwards towards the aftstop, jerking the shaft out of the cou-pling. In the wrong hands, this tool

When it’s necessary to separate the shaft andtransmission couplings either for engine realign-ment or other service, place a mark on the joiningflanges with nail polish or liquid paper. Thisensures that they align exactly the same way theycame apart. — JM

TIPMATCHED COUPLINGS

If you’ve hit bottom lately or wound the prop in aline or fish net so tight the engine stalled, it’s quitepossible the shaft is bent. To determine if a shaft istrue, hold a pointer (screwdriver, knife, etc.)steady at a set distance away from the shaft andslowly spin the shaft while checking the gap with afeeler gauge. A variation in the gap may meanthe shaft is bent, a repair that requires removaland servicing by a machine shop. — JM

TIPIS YOUR SHAFT STRAIGHT

can cause serious damage to thetransmission. One or two hits shouldproduce results. If not, use a electricheat gun (the type used to strip paint)to apply heat to the outside surface ofthe shaft coupler. Never use an openflame heat source in a boat or yourisk explosion or fire damage.

The DIY method of pulling thecoupling off the shaft may be the eas-iest. Spray a release solution into thecoupling. Using a socket slightlysmaller than the shaft diameter as aspacer, join the two coupling flangesso the socket is centered over theshaft. Insert long, fully threaded boltsor threaded rod and nuts into theflange boltholes. Gradually tightenthe bolts (or nuts), slowly pushing theshaft out of the drive coupling. Youshould notice immediate movement ofthe shaft. If the bolts become difficultto tighten, use the electric heat gunand apply heat to the outside surfaceof the coupler in the shaft area.When the face of the shaft couplermeets the transmission output flange,remove the bolts and add additionalspacers. Repeat the process until theshaft is completely removed from thecoupler. Inspect the shaft key end andcoupler, and replace if worn.

The next step is to remove theshaft from the boat. Slide it aft, out ofthe strut. If it doesn’t slide easily,apply a spray lubricant. Inspect theshaft diameter in the shaft packingarea for wear. Replace the shaft ifgrooved. If the shaft and its con-nected parts are in good condition,clean and lightly lubricate so they sliptogether using minimal pressure.

Drive Train Tune-Up

Bearing Replacement If your lift test detected a worn cutlassbearing, the next step is to decidewhether you are skilled enough toattempt replacement. Often this job isbest left to the experts as it involvesremoving the propeller and shaft. Onmany boats these components haven’tbeen disassembled for some time. Ifthis is the case, removal without theproper tools may be more than youbargained for.

Some boatowners may arguethat the best procedure is to removethe propeller, bang out the old bear-ing, and pound in a new one. Tocomplete this job properly, a bettersolution is a complete system over-haul. This involves the removal,inspection and repair or replacementof all components: propeller, shaft,coupler, keyway, and cutlass bearing.If when replacing the bearing theshaft assembly is badly worn, thenmost likely the rest of the system isworn as well.

Before starting a project of thismagnitude it’s best to stand back aminute and consider what steps are


Routinely check bolts and nuts holding the shaft coupling to the transmission out-put shaft, shaft set screws and key. Vibration causes the nuts to loosen bolts toback out, and couplings to part. Consider locking the nuts with Loctite, and drillinga hole in the end of each bolt and seizing with stainless-steel seizing wire. A hoseclamp fastened to the shaft just aft of the key will prevent it from shaking loose.— JM

TIPTHAT SINKING FEELING

Now for the fun part. There are tools available forremoving the cutlass bearing, but they are expensive andvery cumbersome to use. An easy way to remove the bear-ing is with a standard hacksaw and narrow chisel.Disassemble the hacksaw and remove the blade.Reassemble the hacksaw with the blade passed throughthe cutlass bearing allowing the body of the hacksaw tohang down with the teeth of the blade contacting the rub-ber insert. (On boats with a stern tube, use a keyhole sawor sawzall.) Now here’s the trick. Instead of inserting a sin-gle blade, attach two new blades but insert them in reversedirections. Select fine tooth blades of the type used to cutmetal with at least 32 teeth per inch.

With the saw assembled, pick a spot in the cutlassbearing and applying even pressure slowly cut a slot intothe rubber material. When the blades make contact withthe shell, lift the saw, relocate it approximately 12mm(1/2") over, and repeat the process. Use a long flat tipmetal screwdriver or thin chisel to peel the rubber insertfrom the bearing.

Next, slide the hacksaw into position and slowly cutthrough the shell taking care to keep equal pressure onboth ends of the saw during the in and out stroke. Madeof bronze, brass (freshwater use) or non-metallic for alu-minum boats, the shell material is thin and cuts quickly. It’simportant that the cut is not rounded or humped; otherwisethe blades will cut into the support strut housing. Cut untilthe saw blade is just short of cutting into the strut housing.Lift the saw and make a second cut, 180° opposite, in thesame manner. Disassemble the saw and remove it. Using anarrow chisel, peel away the material between the twoslots starting at the edge the same way the rubber wasremoved. Once the section is peeled away, tap the remain-ing bearing out of the strut, or grasp and pull out usingneedle nose pliers. Scrape the sides of the strut housingand locate the heads of the two locking setscrews. Theyshould turn out freely. If not, drill out and replace. Removenicks and corrosion from the strut bore using fine sandpa-per or a smooth file.

Bearing ChoicesChoose the proper replacement bearing and most likelyyou won’t need a repeat job. An alternative to a conven-tional cutlass bearing, where the shaft revolves inside afixed bearing, is Palmer Products’ Shaft Saver. This innova-tive bearing is fixed onto the shaft, which then revolves in


the strut. Albeit it’s new technologyfor recreational boats, it’s been usedon various commercial craft sinceWWII. (Test reports and installationinformation are available on the com-pany’s web side at www.shaftsaver.com or call 800/692-2179.) Anotheroption is to install a Duramax Marine(www.duramaxmarine.com) two-piecebearing. Split lengthwise, it allowsinsertion without removing the shaft.In cases where bearing removal waseasy, and all components are ingood shape this maybe a goodchoice.

Shaft Saver bearing eliminates restoringor replacing worn prop shafts due tobearing wear.

New Bearing InstallationFor unity’s sake, the following stepsdetail installing a standard cutlassbearing of the type you just removed.After cleaning the strut housing, dry-fitthe new bearing into the hole. Don’tforce it! Provided you purchased theidentical bearing, it should be slightlytighter than a slip fit into the housing.When forced it will collapse, prevent-ing the shaft from rotating.

Sometimes, however, the bearingwas custom made to fit the strut, andrequires machining to be usable. Usean inside-measuring caliper to deter-mine the inside diameter of the strut.Be sure to check both ends. Have amachine shop machine the bearingwith an outside diameter .0012mm(.005") larger than the inside diame-ter. This gives a reasonable press fitinto the strut. Also have the shop cuta 12mm (1/2") wide lead onto thebearing at one end approximately.0015mm (.006") less than the strutbore size. This allows the bearing topartially slip into the strut for properalignment.

Bearing replacement is not ashard to do as you might think. Toinstall, apply a lubricant such aspetroleum jelly on the bearing body.Now make a bearing “installer.”Purchase a piece of 16mm (5/8")diameter threaded rod, approxi-mately twice the length of the strut(or stern tube) plus about 7.6cm (3").Thread a nut onto one end of thethreaded rod a short distance fromone end. Slide the bearing on therod. Don’t heat the strut with a torchto expand the metal or you’ll likelyburn the new rubber bearing beyonduse.

Now slip a couple of washerslarger than the diameter of the strutonto the threaded rod, slide the newbearing over the threaded rod, pushthe threaded rod through the strut,slide on more large washers, andthread the remaining nut onto theother end of the rod. Using twowrenches, slowly tighten both nuts.This compresses the washers towardeach other while slowly compressingthe bearing into the strut. Continuecompressing until the outside edge ofthe bearing is flush with the strut.Caution: if the bearing does not pressinto the strut with light pressure,remove it and sand the outside diam-eter evenly. Remove only enoughmaterial from the bearing so it insertswithout distortion.

With the bearing in place, thelast step is to drill spot the setscrewsinto the bearing, and insert newscrews. Use a drill bit smaller thanthe threaded hole and drill into thebearing enough to create an indenta-tion. Don’t drill through the bearing.Insert the setscrews and tightensecurely.

Assemble the shaft assembly inreverse order taking care to repackthe stuffing box if needed. [Ed:Consult DIY 1999-#2 issue for pack-

Drive Train Tune-Up

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WashersWashersNut

Nut

Strut

New bearing

To install a new bearing on a struttighten nuts on threaded rod.

Threaded rod

(top) Strutassembly.(middle) Newcutlass bear-ing installedin stern tube.(bottom)Seizing wireprevents shaftlocking screwsfrom loosen-ing.


Some boatowners uncouple the transmission coupling from the shaft coupling priorto haulout and realign the engine after the boat is back in the water to preventhull flex and possible damage to the prop shaft, strut or bearings. — JM

TIPEXTREME IDEA

ing materials and instructions.] With the shaft installed andlocked into place, install new stainless-steel seizing wirethrough the shaft locking setscrews (or insert the key into thekeyway). If the shaft was replaced be sure to drill spot theshaft through the setscrew holes to help secure the shaft.

Alignment Made EasyEngine to propeller shaft alignment is critical to eliminatinghull vibration. A misaligned engine causes excessive stresson the engine, mounts and stringers as well as prematuredrive coupler failure. While on land and blocked, the hull isdistorted, and engine misalignment between the transmis-sion flange and propeller shaft can be off as much as12mm (1/2"). It’s best to roughly align the engine to thedrive coupler while the boat is on land, then perform a finalalignment a few days after relaunching. Sailboats shouldalso be fully rigged and tuned before completing alignment.(For boats equipped with flexible coupling follow the manu-facturer’s alignment procedures.)

Remove the short piece of hose that attaches the stuff-ing box to the shaft log. Slide the shaft coupler (and shaft)against the mating flange of the transmission coupler. Usewood shims or make a wood block that is notched to fit theshaft, to support the shaft and position it in the center of theshaft log. Adjust the engine mounts using the large adjust-ing nuts on the studs until the pilot in the coupler easily slipsonto the transmission. This is a critical step. Snug adjustingnuts then move the coupler aft and then forward back intoposition. Rotate the shaft 180° and recheck. Readjust eachmount as needed to obtain a slip fit of the coupling pilot.When you’re satisfied with the fit, spray a light coating ofrust inhibitor on the coupling faces, then tighten mount andcoupling nuts.

The final alignment process is where your time, effortand good workmanship will shine. After launching, allowthe boat to settle for at least one full day. Attach and tunestanding rigging, if applicable. Adjust stuffing box leaksusing only hand pressure to secure the main packing nutuntil the leak has stopped. Secure the jam nut by turning itfirmly up against the packing nut and tapping the edge of

the nut smartly witha small hammer.The shock will lock

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it into place better than a packing wrench. Check the coupler alignment and adjust if needed. The

recommended maximum gap when aligning couplings is.0002mm (.001") for every millimeter (inch) of couplingdiameter. This equates to .0007mm (.003") for a 7.6cm(3") diameter coupling. To determine gap clearance, insertthree metal shims of the proper thickness at equal distancesbetween the flange faces. If the size shim is not available,you can use larger ones of identical thickness. [Ed: In apinch, thin paper doubles nicely as feeler gauges.] Nowreadjust the engine mounts so each of the shims manuallyslips in and out of the coupler face with equal force. Becareful not to lean on the engine while making final adjust-ments. When you’re comfortable with the alignment, rotateonly the prop shaft 180°, and check it one last time.Recheck the securing nuts on engine nuts. Install new cou-pler bolts with lock type washers in the coupler.

About the author: Boating for Harry Swieca is both a hobby and a busi-ness. He once operated a mobile marine electronics company, andowned a boat storage and repair facility in Chicago, Illinois. He is a cer-tified mechanic and is currently a marine surveyor for Davis & Company.


PROBLEM / SOLUTIONBOTTOM VIEW

Problem: Gap is wider at the bottom.Solution: Raise the stern mounts evenly a few turns. Recheckalignment.

TOP VIEW Problem: Gap is wider at the top. Solution: Raise front mounts evenly a few turns. Recheckalignment.

SIDE VIEW Problem: Gap is wider on the starboard (right) side.Solution: Move front mounts to starboard. Recheck alignment.

SIDE VIEW Problem: Gap is wider on the port (left) side.Solution: Move front mounts to port. Recheck alignment.

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In-the-water alignment: Buttthe coupling flanges togetherand use the proper feelergauge to check vertical andhorizontal clearances betweenthe coupling faces.

RUDDER FIXESProcedures to repair ormodify common rudderproblems. [ Edited by Jan Mundy ]

Steps to Repair Soggy Rudders

Q: I recently noticed a crack alongthe bottom edge of the rudder onmy 1981 CS 33 that extends about7.6cm (3") up the leading edge ofthe rudder. The rudder is foam filledand drips water from the crackwhen the boat is hauled. The rest ofthe rudder appears sound. Whatsteps would you recommend torepair this problem? Bill Wilson, Kincardine, Ontario

A: Most rudders gradually absorbwater and it’s not a big deal until acrack develops, usually due to frostheave. A foam-filled rudder tends tosuffer more damage as it holdsmore moisture. Freezing tempscrush the foam inside the rudder,and heave and crack the outsideskin. This often causes separation ofthe seam where the port and star-board halves of the outside skin arejoined. The usual fix follows. Besure to protect the eyes with gog-gles and wear a properly fitted dustmask when cutting or sanding.

If you decide to have it fixedprofessionally, the job representssomewhere between 16 and 32hours of labor at most yards. Youcan save some money if youremove and reinstall the rudderyourself.

STEP 1 Evaluate the rudder’s over-all condition. Use a moisture meter

to determine how wet the rudder is.Verify how badly delaminated theoutside skin is from the foam coreby percussive sounds of the rudderwith a hammer (a surveyor or thelocal yard can help with this). Thegoal is to determine how much ofthe foam core is wet and needs tobe removed, and the extent (costand labor) of the repair.

STEP 2 Remove the rudder fromthe boat.

STEP 3 Cut open a “window” inthe side of the rudder using a routeror circular saw, removing just theouter glass skin to gain access tothe wet core. Dry the deterioratedor wet foam core. Use heat lampsto accelerate drying. Damp foamwill eventually dry when exposed toair, but it can take a long time.Inspect the internal metal (usuallymild steel) web that attaches therudder blade to the rudder shaft.Look for excessive corrosion orcracked welds, and repair asneeded. (Refer to DIY 2000-#3issue for instructions on replacinginterior rudder tangs.)

STEP 4 Replace the wet core. Thiscan be done with more A+Bpolyurethane foam or with solidpolyester resin and chopped glassfiller (if you don’t mind adding a bitof weight). Another option is to fill

with epoxy resin thickened with col-loidal silica to a peanut butter con-sistency. Now that you have therudder opened, check the rudder-stock for corrosion. Water trappedin the laminate can cause crevicecorrosion. You don’t want to go tothe trouble to make the repairs tothe rudder laminate and have thestock fail later.

STEP 5 Re-skin the rudder. Sand orgrind the entire outside, or at leastthe side with the opening plus anycracked areas of the outside skin,to bare glass and laminate at leasta couple of layers of new glass andresin (1808 stitchmat works well).Also wrap fiberglass around thefore and aft seam between the twohalves. Fill and fair as neededusing a thick mixture of epoxy resinand microballons. Prime coat withan epoxy primer for re-applicationof antifouling paint.

STEP 6 Seal the rudder shaft toprevent water re-entering the rudderblade where the blade meets theshaft. I recommend digging out thefiberglass laminate adjacent to theshaft to a depth of about 6mm

(1/4”) wide. Fill this small circulartrench around the shaft with 3M5200 or 3M 4200 sealant. Thismakes a much better seal becauseit’s flexible and less prone to crack-ing during temperature extremesthan the original metal-to-glass inter-face.

STEP 7 Reinstall the rudder.— Nick Bailey


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A Simple Method to Increase Rudder Area

Q: I have a 1937 8.5m (28') wooden boat with areally small rudder. The steering is unresponsive inreverse and at slow forward speeds. I was thinking ofattaching a larger plate to the existing rudder toincrease its surface area, with the hope that it will alsoincrease steering control and responsiveness. Do youknow of any sources on this, as to how to size andshape the add-on piece, how to attach it to the existingrudder, or the effectiveness of doing it? Jerry Kerner, Hastings on Hudson, New York

A: Normally rudder size is based on a percentage oflateral plane, or lateral profile of the boat, and oftenfactoring in the sail plan for sailboats. If you have theplans, a naval architect can provide the calculations.When drawings are not available, which I’ll presume isyour case based on the boat’s age, it’s trial and error.

Mark Ellis, notable designer of Cabo Rico, Liberty,Niagara and Nonsuch boats, suggests a technique thatwas once common on wooden racing boats. On meterboats, for example, attached to the rudder’s trailingedge is a strip of copper or monel. This presented afine edge, unobtainable with wood. Ellis suggests start-ing sea trials by attaching a temporary piece to the trail-ing edge. Use inexpensive aluminum flashing and startwith a 7.6cm- (3"-) wide strip. This low-tech approach

may require numerous haulouts, so you’ll need to nego-tiate a rate with the yard. Once you have determinedthe most effective profile, make a permanent one ofcopper (or stainless steel). The copper need not be of agauge heavier than copper weather stripping. Cut itwith shears, cutting pieces out to more easily bend theplate. The finished piece would fold in half and fasten

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with screws or rivets to the rudder sides. Apparently, it’snot necessary to fair the plate into the rudder, as thethickness of the plate won’t make much difference. Youmay need to modify this approach, depending on thethickness of the rudder’s trailing edge and its construc-tion.— Jan Mundy

Rudder Post Service

Q: I need to replace the stuffing box packing in the rud-der post on my 1976 Tartan. The boat is currently onthe hard. I removed the rudder and post but I’m unableto break the stuffing box adjusting nuts free. I’ve usedpenetrating oil and a torch but without success. Any sug-gestions?John Kraft, “Hallelujah,” Apopka, Florida

A: The stuffing box assembly is likely connected to afiberglass rudder tube by means of a rubber hose, soyou need to be careful whenapplying heat. This job is moreeasily done with the rudderoff the boat. Drop the rud-der, undo the hose clamp atthe bottom, remove thewhole assembly and place itin a vise. Use a cold chiselplaced on the side of eachnut, give it a couple of hard taps with a hammer. Animpact wrench is a handy tool for this job. Hopefully,this will loosen the nuts. If it doesn’t, take a wrench andslip a pipe over the handle. Increasing the leverage may

free the nuts.

Lastly,heat the nuts

until they are hot andcherry red in color. You need high temps for heat to beeffective. Apply heat evenly to prevent cracking the nut.Even now, removal may require leverage or more shocktaps to remove the nut. Be sure when reinstalling to putsome Tef-Gel on fasteners to facilitate removal later.

— Nick Bailey


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Lectra/San MC, a mini onboard treat-ment system, uses salt to treat sewageimmediately and automatically witheach flush and meets the USCG require-ments for a Type 1 MSD. Sample installation.

Completed head: Raritan Cricket is acompact choice for a mid-sized power-boat or sailboat toilet, and the telescop-ing handle makes it noticeably easier touse. Discharge hose passes through cabi-net under the sink. Control IndicatorPanel on the left side provides visualmonitoring of the salt and voltage supply.

Many MSD manufacturers recommend using sched-ule 80 PVC pipe rather than hose. Pipe is virtuallyimpervious to smell but requires joining to a pieceof flexible hose to pass around bends and at con-nections to treatment devices and toilets to preventthe pipe from vibration damage. If you do opt forhose, buy the best quality sanitation hose you canfind. There is no economy in cheap hose. Cheaphose permeation causes nasty odors. — JM

TIPFLEXIBLE OR RIGID?

UPGRADE Custom platformfabricated ofmarine ply with arubber cushioningpad ready to

install in the cockpit seat locker.INTELLIGENT SANITATIONSimple-to-install, this ultracompact onboard treatmentsystem eliminates a hold-ing tank for boats operatingin discharge zones.

[ By David and Zora Aiken ]

N o category of boat gear promptsas much discussion, distress and

occasionally outright disgust than themarine head. Confusing and some-times conflicting regulations make adifficult situation impossible to resolve.

Having recently become theproud (and foolish) owners of a sec-ond boat, we have managed to dou-ble our concern for all of the above.Since it was time for a new head sys-tem, we first spent some time conduct-ing a study of other boaters’ experi-ences or recommendations. Welearned that many boaters haveswitched to a Raritan Lectra/San MCand those that have are very satisfiedwith its operation.

Given the subject, that’s saying alot, so we decided to join the con-verts. This device macerates thesewage then uses electrically chargedsaltwater to kill bacteria. Afterdestroying bacteria and viruses, itreverts back to salt and water. Whenthe treated discharge empties into thewater, it does not add any illness-causing elements to the environment,so it meets EPA Type 1 standards for

to 6') from the toilet itself. Installationmay require a vented loop (preventsback siphoning and backflow),depending on the relative level oftank to toilet.

After determining the tank’s loca-tion, we now measured for the hosesand made a list of required fittingsand other materials. Our installationincluded marine plywood, some25mm (1”) square wood cleats,epoxy glue, and stainless-steel screwsfor the mounting base; 3.8cm (1-1/2") ID odor-resistant sanitation hose(has a smooth interior); and all-stain-less hose clamps. Included with theLectra/San is a Control IndicatorPanel and saltwater feed tank(optional, but needed for our installa-tion). Installation instructions specifythe type of wire and other electricalfittings needed for 12-, 24- or 32-voltsetup. Other miscellaneous suppliesincluded PVC cement (for attachinghose fittings to the unit) and Teflontape (for all threaded connections).

The mounting platform is made of12mm (1/2") marine plywood, withwood cleats glued and screwed to the

Lectra/San MC strapped securely onplatform in cockpit locker.

overboard discharge. Despite the sys-tem’s proven ability to disinfect waste,No Discharge Zones exist were boatsare prohibited from emptying anysewage, even that treated to the EPAstandard.

The main installation considera-tions before purchasing a Lectra/ SanMC are available space, power con-sumption (it draws about 1.7 amphours per 2-minute use), and, ofcourse, feasibility of the individualinstallation.

The space issue is probably theeasiest to resolve. The treatment tankis truly compact, measuring 40.6cmwide by 34cm high by 25cm deep(16" by 13-5/16" by 9-3/4"). It mustbe positioned so its top is at the samelevel as, or lower than, the toilet’s dis-charge fitting. We’d hoped to fit thetank in a locker conveniently situateddirectly behind the toilet, where slid-ing doors would provide easy accessshould the need arise. But as the hullshape usually tapers locker spaces inheads, instead, we found a good spotin a cockpit seat locker. This involvedbuilding a platform base to mount theunit securely. As the tank installs inline with the discharge hose, werouted new hose from the toiletthrough the under-sink cabinet,through an aft bulkhead and into theseat locker. It’s still within the recom-mended distance of 91cm to 1.8m (3'


Where practical, replace the standard vent hose, typically 16mm (5/8") diame-ter, with 3.8cm (1-1/2") diameter or as large as possible. Locate hull vents fit-tings on the transom or near the stern, not under the rubrail. Use two vents onsailboats, one per side, so when heeled, there is always an open vent. Makesure the hose is not blocked with impacted sewage. — JM

TIPPURE-FUME AROMA

top, framing the unit to prevent any possible side-slipping. Itsits on substantial supports screwed to cleat stock mounted tothe hull in the locker, forming a solid base for theLectra/San. Mounting straps hold it tightly to the base. Arubber pad under the tank helps to minimize noise andvibration.

Next we turned our attention to the installation of thenew toilet, a manually operated Cricket from Raritan. Thisunit didn’t fit the existing mounting base in our boat’s head,but by adding a wooden support piece and angling theplacement slightly, we were able to install it without any extraconstruction to the head sole. As with any such installation, ifthe toilet is below the waterline, add a vented loop to preventsiphoning.

After mounting the toilet and the treatment tank, thehoses were cut to length and connected. In small spaces, con-necting hoses to fittings is difficult. To soften stiff hoses so theyconnect more easily to hose barbs, leave in the hot sun for awhile or place in hot water for a few minutes. Our setup alsoincludes a diverter (Y) valve and a small holding tank, to giveus legal options in case of a power loss or when cruising off-shore.

Wiring involves connecting the positive terminal on thetreatment tank to a power distribution center (requires a 60amp fuse or breaker), and negative terminal to a negativedistribution post. We used 6 AWG wire, the recommendedsize, allowing for the distance from the panel (or post) to thetank and back to the panel, and a 3% voltage drop. A cablefrom the Control Indicator Panel plugs into the back of thetreatment tank. Luckily, this panel mounted very close to thetoilet and followed the same wiring path as the dischargehose. A supplied template simplified cutting the hole for thepanel.

On a boat with an electric toilet, installation can also besetup for single-touch operation. The same button on thepanel automatically activates the flushing mechanism and thetreatment system. For manual toilets like ours, a sensor kit isavailable that activates the unit automatically after manuallypumping three to five strokes, generally within a 10-second-time period. This sensor is not essential to operation. Thepush-button mechanism works fine. Provided the boat is usedin saltwater, no other components are needed. The salinity ofocean water is sufficient to operate the system.

If the boat is usually operated in fresh or brackish water(or if the Lectra/San is used with pressurized freshwater),Raritan recommends installing a salt-feed tank. The smallest7.5L (2gal) tank, requires adding premixed salt and water(mix in a bucket). Each time the MSD is used, some of thesalt solution is mixed with the incoming water to provide theproper salinity. A 15L (4gal) tank automatically adds therequired salt to the system when hooked up to a pressurized

Lectra/San MC $1,036.00Cricket manual MSD (with marine size bowl) $282.507.5L (2gal) salt feed tank $67.908' Sanitation hose $56.008 Hose clamps $36.00Marine plywood, cleat stock, glue, stainless-steel fasteners, paint, wire and connectors,and other miscellany $25.002 Diverter valves $140.00 Total $1,643.40This is a weekend job, if you don’t need to remove an old toilet, cut out alocker, or otherwise rework the interior.

DIY REFIT BILL

freshwater supply. It’s also possible to add salt to the sys-tem by simply pouring table salt into the toilet bowl witheach usage. The control panel indicates if sufficient salt isadded or if more is needed.

With the boat’s interior under construction, wedecided to finish a remodeling project that we startedsome time ago. The head compartment now sports newlockers, new wood, new paint and a functioning footpump. �About the authors: In search of alternative solutions, liveaboardsDavid and Zora Aiken first rebuilt “Atelier’s” head compartment toaccommodate a composting MSD (this install appears in DIY 1999-#2 issue). They are hoping this treatment tank and head combo istheir last head reconstruction.

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[ By Susan Canfield ]

B oaters underestimate the very realdanger lightning poses,” says

Ewen Thompson, a University ofFlorida researcher. He notes, forexample, that ground flashes can beexpected to hit from 4% to 20% ofmoored sailboats in Florida eachyear.

Cruising sailboats, he says, aretypically hit at least once in their life-time. In “Lightning & Sailboats,” aFlorida Sea Grant college programpublication, Thompson reports that thestanding record for the greatest num-ber of strikes to a single boat is five,while the highest strike repetition rateis twice within 10 seconds. So muchfor the old adage that lightning neverstrikes twice in the same place!

Lightning damage to boats ismore severe in freshwater than saltwa-ter, suggests Thompson. Of 71 boatsstruck by lightning, only one boat in10 in saltwater suffered damagewhen the mast was grounded(F igure 1) . In freshwater, six boatsin 10 were damaged despite havinggrounded masts. The disparity waslikely due to inadequate grounding.

Most lightning strikes occur in theafternoon as hot moist air rises intothe atmosphere where it condenses,forming fluffy cumulus clouds. Asmoisture accumulates, these cloudsdarken and become the large typi-

cally anvil-shaped storm clouds knownas cumulonimbus. In the process, thelower portion of a cumulonimbuscloud develops a negative charge. Asa thundercloud passes overhead, aconcentration of positive chargesaccumulates on objects at the earth’ssurface beneath it. Since these posi-tive charges are attracted to the nega-tive charge of the cloud above, theytend to accumulate at the top of thehighest objects around. On a boat,that highest object may be a mast,antenna, outrigger or, in the worstcase, any person onboard.

Lightning occurs when the electri-cal potential -– the difference betweenthe positive and negative charges -–becomes great enough to overcomethe resistance of the insulating airbetween them and to force a conduc-tive channel. This channel usuallystarts about five miles above the earthand extends downward as a series ofincreasingly long sparks, known asstepped leaders, which ionize a paththrough the air. When the tip of anegatively charged stepped leader is27m to 91m (30 to 100 yards) fromthe earth’s surface, a positive attach-ment spark is launched to meet it(F igure 2) . Where a steppedleader, such as a mast or tuna tower,and attachment spark meet, the bulkof the lightning current follows.

Since lightning tends to strike the

HIT OR MISSThere is no way you can prevent lightningstriking your boat, but you can improveyour odds and minimize damage byinstalling a lightning protection system.

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highest object in its vicinity, All boatsare vulnerable. Unfortunately, fewboatbuilders sell boats with lightningprotection systems installed. The rea-sons are obvious. If a protection sys-tem fails the builder can’t be sued,and if there’s no system and the boatis damaged, it’s an act of God. It’sleft to the boatowner to recognize theneed and install a suitable system onhis or her boat.

Sailboats with aluminum mastsand a sportfisherman rigged with ametal tuna tower or metal outriggersboth have a straight path to a light-ning ground conductor, a designadvantage over a small open power-boat, motoryacht or express cruiserwith no obvious route to ground.When designing a lightning protec-tion system for your boat, or evaluat-

Damage report of 71 boats struck bylighting in saltwater and freshwater,and with or without a lightning protec-tion system installed.

0 = No hull damage1 = Small non-leaking cracks or burns2 = Small holes, minor leaks3 = Holes larger than 6mm (1/4")

diameter above waterline4 = Holes larger than 6mm (1/4")

diameter below waterline

Figure 1

Lightn ng

Lightning Protective MastA grounded mast significantly reducesthe incidence of damage or injuryfrom a lightning strike, and there is noevidence that it increases the likeli-hood of being struck. A groundedmast will divert to itself a direct strikethat might otherwise fall within acone-shaped space extending fromthe conductor at the top of the mast toa circle on the water’s surface with a

radius equal to the height ofthe conductor or lightningprotective mast (F igure3) . For masts over 15m (50’)in height, the zone of protec-tion is defined by a circulararc with a radius of 30.5m(100') and its concave sidefacing upward (F igure 4) .The radius of the arc isbased on the striking dis-tance of a lightning strokewhich typically exceeds30.5m (100').

The role of the air terminal (light-


(left) Exterior of a pockmarked fiberglass hull bottom damaged when lightning passedthrough on its way to ground. (right) Charred resin in one of the pockmarks.This typeof damage is fairly typical in boats that lack a good lightning protection system.

ing one already installed, determinewhat must be done to ensure thesafety of personnel onboard, maintainthe boat’s structural integrity and mini-mize damage to installed electronics.Let’s take a look at the five basic com-ponents of effective lightning protec-tion: A lightning protective mast withan air terminal (lightning rod) at itstop, and one or more conductorsconnected to an external ground

plate or its equivalent, to providelightning a direct path to groundwhile creating a “zone of protec-tion” for personnel onboard; Bond-ing conductors used to equalize theelectrical potential of large metalobjects such as tanks, engines, tow-ers and davits, to prevent sideflashes (arc-over discharges) fromthe lightning protective mast or itsconductors; Appropriate wiring tech-niques, lightning arrestors, and tran-sient voltage suppressors for elec-tronics protection; System inspectionand maintenance; Appropriate per-sonal conduct.

Figure 3 Stay in the zone! Lightning protection for a powerboat or sailboat with a groundedmast no higher than 15m (50') above the water.The cone-shaped zone of protectionextends from the highest point to a circle on the water’s surface with a radius equalto the height of the conductor or lightning protective mast.AB

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ning rod) is to divert lightning to itselfand away from people onboard. Itdoes this by launching an attachmentspark to intercept a downward-mov-

ing steppedleader. To do itsjob properly, anair terminal shouldextend at least15cm (6") abovethe top of a light-ning protectivemast and anyequipment locatedthere that needs to

Figure 2Lightning attachment to a mast:When the tip of a negativelycharged stepped leader is withina short distance from the

earth’s surface, a positiveattachment spark islaunched to meet it.Provided the mast isgrounded, the likelihood

of lightning attach-ing to the mastheadis a safety feature so

far as the crew isconcerned.

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Solid Antenna

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Protected zone with solid antennaextending the height of the lightningmast to protect entire boat

Protected zone with Lightning mast only

When lightning struck the VHF antennaon this 8m (26') Grover cuddy cabinwhile cruising Chesapeake Bay nearAnnapolis, Maryland, it burned a holethrough the cabintop, and the resultingshockwave shattered the windshield.Note the hole in the hardtop and theburn pattern on the left above thehelm. Owner Morgan Wells and twoother men in the cockpit were injured.The boat did not have a lightning pro-tection system.


be protected (F igure 5) . If there isno antenna, light or other equipmentat the masthead to be protected, anair terminal is not required on an alu-minum mast.

Air terminals have traditionallyhad sharp points since it was theo-rized that a sharp point creates thelargest electrical field and is morelikely to launch an attachment spark.Recent experiments, however, suggest

lightning parallel paths to ground.Use 6 AWG wire or other copperconductor of equal or greater conduc-tivity to connect chainplates to theground plate. Lightning doesn’t like tochange direction. If a conductor isrequired to turn, the radius of thebend should be no less than 20cm(8") and the included angle no lessthan 90°. To minimize side flashesand the induction of high voltage tothe boat’s wiring, don’t route lightningconductors parallel to the boat’s ACor DC wiring.

All materials used in a lightningprotection system should be corrosionresistant. Use stranded copper wire,ribbon or copper flashing (cut into

Lightn ing that the optimal air terminal tip radiusof curvature is 4mm (3/16") minimumto 12mm (1/2") maximum. Static dis-sipators, devices that generally havea bristly brush-like appearance withmultiple conducting points, areclaimed to prevent a lightning strike.

A metal mast used as the primarylightning conductor between the airterminal and ground plate shouldhave a conductivity not less than thatof a #4 copper conductor. If yourboat has a non-conductive mast, con-nect the air terminal at the masthead

to the external ground plate using 4AWG wire or a copper conductor ofequal or greater conductivity.Although partially conductive, carbonfiber materials should be considerednon-conductive as a lightning protec-tive mast.

Boats that lack a permanent mastcan erect a temporary one asneeded. Its height and location whendeployed should be such that theentire boat falls within its zone of pro-tection (F igure 6) . An aluminumoutrigger with conductivity equal to orbetter than a #4 copper conductorcan be used, as can a stainless-steelwhip antenna. Due to its higher melt-ing temperature, the conductivity of astainless-steel whip may be equal tothat of 8 AWG copper wires. Sincethe antenna’s loading coil presents ahigh impedance to the flow of light-ning current, it should be shorted,equipped with a surge suppressiondevice (lightning arrestor) orgrounded above the coil.

Metal stays and shrouds provide

Figure 4On masts higher than 15m (50'), the zone of protection is defined by a circular arcwith a radius of 30.5m (100') between the air terminal and water. Each mastrequires a conductor with ground plate directly underneath.

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Figure 5An air terminal should extend at least15cm (6") higher than the highest pointon the mastheadand fasten to a min-imum 4 AWG cop-per conductor con-nected to thegrounding plate orstrip. If the mast isaluminum and thereis no equipment atthe masthead to beprotected, an air ter-minal is notrequired.

Figure 6 Boats that lack a permanent lightningprotective mast should erect a tempo-rary one. Its height and location whendeployed should be such that the entireboat falls withinits zone of pro-tection. Severalcompanies manu-facturer a copperconductorcable(s) that leadfrom the mastinto the water.

In the event of alightning strike,dissipators such asthe ForesparLightning Mastermay help to dis-charge the ioncharge and keepyou out of harm’sway.

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Freshwater is, by far, a poor conductor of electricity than saltwater, and doesn’tdissipate a lightning current as effectively. If you use your boat in freshwater,University of Florida researcher Ewen Thompson recommends installing a largerunderwater grounding plate or strip than suggested by ABYC. — SC

TIPFRESHWATER BOATERS BEWARE


strips) with a thickness of at least .8mm (1/32"). Annealed12mm (1/2") copper tubing, radiused if necessary and thenflattened, makes an excellent conductor. Don’t use copperbraid. Where it’s necessary to connect dissimilar metals, suchas aluminum and copper, corrosion can be reduced by theuse of suitable plating or by installing a metal fitting that isgalvanically compatible with both metals. Many marine storessell bi-metallic connectors for this purpose. If your boat has alightning protection system, check the size of the conductors.Any 8 AWG conductors compliant with previous ABYC andNFPA standards should be upgraded. Subsequent researchhas proven them inadequate.

The lightning ground for your system can be any metal(copper, copper alloy, stainless steel or aluminum) surface atleast 930cm2 (1' square) that is submerged in the water. Ametal hull, rudders, external ballast keel or centerboard (pro-vided it’s in the down position) makes an excellent ground. Ifyour boat has none of these, bolt an exterior ground plate orstrip to the hull, insofar as possible, directly below the light-ning protective mast. Don’t use propellers, shafts or metallicrudders in lieu of an exterior ground plate or strip unless thelightning protective mast is located toward the stern. All con-nections to the ground plate or strip should be as short anddirect as possible. If you use a ground plate forward underthe lightning mast, rather than a grounding strip, groundbackstays or other objects aft to the engine negative terminal,metallic rudders or other external ground at the aft end of theboat. Due to their porosity, a sintered bronze plate (GuestDynaplate is one example) designed for grounding radios isnot as effective in dissipating the charge of a lightning strikeas a solid copper plate of the same size and shape. In addi-tion, heat from a strike can turn water trapped in these platesto steam, causing them to explode.

Stem-to-stern external grounding strips should be at least

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Lightning Mast

4 AWG Minumum

DC Common Ground Plate

Lightning Ground plate 6 AWG MinimumEngine Negative Terminal

A basic lightning protection system for powerboats; measurestaken to protect installed electronics not shown.


Bonding ConductorsWhile the lightning protective mastand its conductors are designed todirect a lightning strike to ground,the bonding system is intended toprevent sideflashes by keeping size-able metal objects within 1.8m (6')of a lightning conductor at the same potential. Use 6 AWGwire or a copper conductor of equal or greater conductivityto connect objects such as bow and stern pulpits, horizontalguardrails, handrails on cabin tops, steering wheels, sailtracks, smokestacks from galley stoves or cabin heaters,metallic hatches, arches, towers, electric winches, davits,stoves and metal tanks. If an exterior grounding strip isused, an equalization bus can be run inside of the boatparallel to the strip. Lightning bonding wires connect to thisbus, reducing the number of connectors run to a single bolt.

Don’t encourage the high voltage associated with light-ning to pass through the engine as it can damage the bear-ings. Connect engines directly to the grounding plate, stripor bus. Also, do not connect the primary grounding conduc-tor to seacocks or thru-hull fittings. It’s best to leave seacocksisolated whenever possible.

Electronics protectionSolid-state electronics are very intolerant of voltage surges,and even a well-protected boat can lose electronics due tolightning. Lightning-bypass gaps, transient voltage suppres-sors and metal-oxide varistors are available from electron-ics’ distributors to protect antenna coils, coaxial cables andpower supply lines, respectively. The best thing you can doto protect electronics is to disconnect antenna cables and allwiring leads. Don’t forget to remove microphones. (Don’tremove grounding cables that run to metal equipment casesor chassis.) Turning off a circuit breaker is not sufficient.Lightning will easily jump the gap. Thompson goes a stepfurther and recommends enclosing all electronics in metalboxes that are then connected to the bonding system. Allthis being said, in the event of a direct strike, there is noth-ing that will protect all of the electronics all of the time.

Inspection and MaintenanceInspect your lightning protection system annually and when-ever alterations or repairs are made to any of its compo-nents. Check for corrosion and tighten any loose connec-tions. Use a multimeter to test for system continuity.

Personal ConductWhen threatening weather approaches keep everyone out

Ideal protectionsystem: Stem-to-stern aluminumunderwater ground-ing strip mountedexternally belowthe waterline servesas the boat’sground plate helpsavoid destructive

side flashes. Keel, toerail, shrouds, mast, all major metal com-ponents on the boat are all directly connected to the strip.Fasten the strip with two thru-bolts to prevent twisting.

Parallel lightningpath

H

H H

Secondary lightningconductor (6 AWG)

Engine

Bonding conductor to all largemetal objects within 1.8m (6') of a lightning conductor. (6 AWG)

Equalization bus

Metal Tank

Winch

Stove

Immersed lightning ground plate or strip (1 sq. ft) or metal keel.

Secondary lightning conductorruns for and aft. (minimum 6 AWG)

Parallel path

Primary lightning condudctor(minimum 4 AWG)

Air terminal

Zone of protection

MAST COLLAR

DECK

MA

ST

DOWN CONDUCTOR

CROSS SECTION OF HULL

LIGHTNING DISCHARGE STRIP

DOWN CONDUCTORCONNECTOR

MAST HEAD

AIR TERMINAL

A lightning discharge system for power andsailboats, the LDS 2000 kit (US$250) fromChestnut Hill consists of an air terminal, con-ductor, grounding strip and all fasteners.Thissystem still requires connecting all metal com-ponents to the grounding strip.

19mm (3/4") wide and, except for stainless steel, have aminimum thickness of 4mm (3/16"). Stainless-steel stripsshould be at least 3.2mm (1/8") thick. Since lightning dis-sipates from the edges of the metal, a 2.5cm by 3.6m (1"by 12') strip has nearly six times the amount of exposededge as a 930cm2 (1' square) ground plate. If a ground-ing strip is used, it should run aft from a point directlybelow the lightning protective mast. On a sailboat, thestrip should be located where it will be submerged whenthe boat is heeled to port or starboard. If this is not possi-ble, two strips should be used. The edges of a groundplate or strip should be sharp, exposed and not caulked orfaired into the adjoining area.

Lightn ing


FUSING THE NEGATIVEInstead of disconnecting all leads on the GPS,VHF or otherelectronic devices as recommended by ABYC, some boatersadvocate installing a fuse in the negative lead.This is in addi-tion to the required fuse or circuit breaker in the positive lead.The theory is that a lightning strike will likely blow out thereverse polarity diodes (which are easily cut out of the circuitto allow temporary use), as well as the negative fuses, but savethe electronics. Fuses are just another insurance policy. Goahead and install them.What’s to lose? — JM

TIPFUSING THE NEGATIVE

of the water and inside the boat (within the zone of protec-tion). The safest place is in the cabin. Stay well away fromthe mast and rigging. Avoid touching stays, shrouds, rail-ings, lifelines, outriggers, antennas and other components ofthe lightning protection system. In particular, avoid touchingtwo grounded objects simultaneously, such as a metal steer-ing wheel or throttle control and a stanchion, in such a waythat you become an electrical conductor between them. Inan open boat, stay as low as possible.

When conditions that create an electrical chargebetween clouds and the earth exist, there is nothing that canbe done to prevent the lightning discharge. No lightningprotection system can prevent that. The operative word is“protection” not “prevention.” A boat can be struck in openwater or while tied to a dock. Refrain from using electron-ics, which should be disconnected anyway, especially theVHF radio except when needed for an emergency.

A Final CautionAppropriate system design is unique to each boat. Whetheryou do the work yourself or have a marine electrician orrigger do it for you, review both the ABYC and NFPA light-ning protection standards before installing a lightning pro-tection system (see “Resources” for ordering information).Lightning doesn’t know you exist and it doesn’t care. Theonly thing you can do is provide lightning an unimpededpath to ground. Lightning protection systems are intended toprotect people first and the boat second. You do what youcan to protect electrical systems and electronics, but thereyou’re largely at the whim of Mother Nature. �About the author: Susan Canfield is a marine surveyor with MarineAssociates of Annapolis, Maryland. She is a member of the Society ofAccredited Marine Surveyors and the American Boat and Yacht Council.

RESOURCES• “Standards and Recommended Practices for Small Craft,” Standard E-4, Lightning Protection(12/96); American Boat & Yacht Council; Tel: 410/956-1050, Website: www.abycinc.org $35($17.50 for ABYC members)• “Standard for the Installation of Lightning Protection Systems,” 2000 Edition, NFPA 780; NationalFire Protection Association, Tel: 800/344-3555 or 617/770-3000 if calling from outside U.S.,Website: www.nfpa.org $29.75 ($26.75 for NFPA members)• For more information on lightning and boats, visit the following websites: National Lightning SafetyInstitute: www.lightningsafety.com• National Weather Service Lightning Information Center:www.srh.noaa.gov/mlb/ltgcenter/ltgmain.html• University of Florida: www.thomson.ece.edu/lightning/title.html

designed for marine applicationswith return lines for PositiveCrankcase Ventilation (PCV) and thefuel pump vent. Oddly enough,while there was a vent port on eachfuel pump, it was not connected tothe Quadrajets, nor was there a porton these carbs to do so. (Make sureyou use fuel system componentsdesigned for a marine application.Automotive parts do not have thesafety features required to prevent

Out with the old distributor.


EXTREME POWERBOOSTBetter fuel economy, acleaner burning engine andreduced maintenance arejust a few good reasons toadd high tech componentsto your boat’s engines,even in a motoryacht witha cruising speed of just 8knots.

[ By Dwight Powell ]

A fter purchasing a 1968 cruiserwith original engines, it

occurred to me that I could makesome significant power improve-ments using high-tech components,yet keep the strength and depend-ability of the original blocks.

It’s equipped with twin 427 CICrusader engines that enjoy a repu-tation for ruggedness and depend-ability. Having GM blocks means

parts are available almost anywherefor rebuilds or upgrades. Theseengines feature Quadrajet carbs,breakerpoint ignition and the origi-nal cast iron intake manifolds. Thisconfiguration may have worked wellfor 30-plus years, but the potentialfor fuel savings and new, moredependable technology would likely

improve performance. After consultation with my

mechanic, Jeff Harrison of Jeff’sMobile Marine, we decided tochange the distributors completely.The existing units used breakerpoints and required gap and dwellsetting at each change. Skepticaltraditionalists advise againstinstalling electronic ignition in boats.Other than some anecdotal evi-dence: “If the distributors fail, youcan’t walk home,” or “That’s howthe engines where built so stay withthe original;” I could find no evi-dence to avoid this upgrade.Breakerless, electronic ignition, hasbeen used for many years withincredible reliability, and is fitted inall modern marine engines. Wechose Mallory distributors becausethese are small with inexpensivecaps and rotors, and with socketsthat most resemble the original.

Next came the carburetors.While I have nothing againstQuadrajets, my previous boat hadCarters, which I found easy to adjustand were extremely reliable.Besides, Carter carbs were a betterfit for the new intake manifolds notyet installed. Also, in keeping withthe idea of “balance” in theengines, I felt it was important tomatch the carbs and intake mani-folds. The new Carter carbs are

P O W E R B O A T

Original Quadrajet carburetor.

- R I G G I N G -

fuel or vapors from getting into the boat.) Venting gaso-line and/or fumes into the bilge is a potentially fatalpractice!

I chose new intake manifolds from Edelbrock. Theyare made of aluminum and have a slightly higher toweror plenum chamber for the carb to sit on. This extraheight allows the manifold to deal more effectively withsomething called a “sonic.” Without getting too compli-cated, this sonic can either be helpful or harmful depend-ing on engine timing. Edelbrock manifolds are alsodesigned to improve the air-fuel vaporization and flowefficiency to the cylinder heads, making for more lowrpm torque and better fuel economy.

Lastly, we installed a Multiple Spark Discharge(MSD) on each engine. Such units are most often used inracing boats because they put out greater spark per sec-


Installation of Mallory electronic distributor.

New aluminum Edelbrock Performer 2.0 manifold. Note largerplenum chamber opening. Footprint of new distributor issmaller than original with traditional cap.

Original cast-iron intake manifold.

Multiple Spark Discharge units installed on each enginedeliver a spark 10 times more intense than a regular coiland distributor.


advance from the electronic distribu-tors and MSD units. Subsequently,this provides more efficiency at idle,better fuel economy and less carbonbuildup in the engines. While it’s toosoon to claim success, I notice theengines start faster and idle smootherwith less spark plug fouling.

One added benefit to all of this, Ihope, is reduced maintenance. Nopoints to change and set, spark plugsthat last longer, and cleaner burningengines.

About the author: After a seven-year bow-to-transom refit, Dwight Powell traded his vin-tage Chris-Craft cruiser for a wooden 11.2m(37') Egg Harbor. His next upgrade is toinstall a Floscan Fuel Management System,which will verify the engine modifications, fol-lowed by a complete wiring overhaul. Bothwill appear in upcoming issues of DIY.

Powerboat Rigging

2 Mallory electronic distributors $900

2 Carter Marine carburetors $800

2 Edelbrock Performer 2.0 intake manifolds $500

2 MSD units $600

Miscellaneous bits and pieces $200

Total $3,000 for both engines

DIY UPGRADE BILL

Hoses were replaced with certifiedones, including a certified Vetus exhausthose.

With new electronic distributor,Edelbrock manifold and Carter MarineCarb, this ol’ gal is ready to go racing,err boating!

ond and provide a more completeburn of the fuel mixture. They gettheir power directly from the battery— just imagine the umpf! Accordingto the manufacturer, the spark is 10times more intense than a regular coiland distributor arrangement. Today’sfuels have lower octane and withlong periods of idling, a commonoccurrence in boats, engines don’t

burn the fuel completely. This condi-tion increases fuel usage and pollu-tion. Harrison suggested that whileMSD units are most often used onhigh performance boats, we shouldtry them on a lower rpm, displace-ment cruiser.

The net result of the aboveupgrades produced higher torque inthe lower rpm range, more spark

PASSIVE BLASTING

Rather than hand sanding his boat’sfiberglass hull below the waterline,DIY reader Doug Alexander built asandblaster from components read-ily available at most hardware anddepartment stores. His blaster con-sists of a 110-volt, 5-hp compressor(US$276) with an upright storagetank, and a sandblast gun (aboutUS$30). This is not a powerfulsetup compared to a commercialunit one could rent, but it’s a loteasier than hand sanding.

Condition of hull after a power wash.

When masking the hull before applying anantifouling, barrier coat or topside paint, use ahigh quality tape designed to withstand the ele-ments, such as 3M Long Mask or 233+. Thenapply an inexpensive masking tape overtop. Pullthe tape away when you’ve finished the job. Bothtapes tear off easily without breaking into smallpieces, as can happen when tape is left in placefor more that a few days or when it gets wet.

TIPTAPING TRICK

TIPWhen you’re not sure if an overcoating of paint,varnish or oil is compatible with the existing sub-strate, do a patch test before painting. The follow-ing routine is adapted from an article previouslypublished in “Epoxyworks,” Spring 2001 edition,published by Gougeon Brothers. Based on theAmerican Standard for Testing Materials (ASTM)test number D3359, this test provides a method tocheck the adhesion of the primer to the surface,and the paint to the primer and to the surface, all

at one time. Prep the test area,

then apply the primer(if using) and paintfollowing the manu-facturer’s instructions.Once cured, use a sin-gle-edged razorblade to score a pat-tern of parallel lines, about 3mm (1/8") apart, in

a crosshatch pattern through the coating to thesubstrate. Apply a strip of high quality maskingtape diagonally across the pattern, leaving a tailon the tape. Rub the tape hard onto the pattern,and then pull it slowly back over itself. If the paintlifts from the primer, then the coatings are notcompatible or the surface prep is inadequate. Ineither case, alter your surface prep or apply a dif-ferent primer and test again. Repeat these stepsuntil you are satisfied with the results.


MAINTENANCE

OF HULLS, DECKS & INTERIORSA collection of tips for refinishing brightwork, strippingcoatings, bottom painting, purging water tanks,installing a fire system and how to build a do-it-your-self sandblaster.[ By Jan Mundy ]

S T I L L L O O K I N G G O O DNatural wood finishrequires very little effortif maintained regularly.When I purchased myIsland Packet in 1994, ithad two factory-appliedcoats of Cetol on theexterior brightwork. Afew months after com-missioning, I appliedtwo more coats using atechnique I’ve success-

fully used for many years. First, prepare the wood by rubbing the surfacewith a white 3M Scotch-Brite pad, rinse with a vinegar-water mixture, andlet dry for a day, then apply Cetol liberally and neatly with a foam brush (Inever mask). Every year thereafter I repeat these steps, applying two coatswith no sanding.

Some owners find that Cetol only lasts a year or so before needingsanding or scraping the coating down to the bare wood. The problemsbegin when water migrates under the coating. The key to a long-livedclear finish is to clean the surface once a week by spraying with waterand wiping off with a soft rag to get rid of dirt and mold that eats into theCetol. In San Diego, California, the air pollution was so bad that it literallyate away the Cetol anywhere water pooled or the pollutants concentrated,such as on the cabintop grab rails. Also, after waxing the deck, sometimesI use the same rag to lightly wax the rail. This provides some added water-proofing, but don’t rub too hard or you’ll remove some Cetol. — Butler Smythe

A well-maintained coatingof Cetol on author’s IslandPacket after six years ofservice in California, Floridaand Maryland.

GO

UGEO

N B

ROTH

ERS,

INC.

ONE-STEP PAINT ADHESION TEST


Using a fine gradeof silica sand (#505) lefta nice smooth finish onthe hull. A coarsergrade of sand wouldclean faster, but the fin-ish is much rougher.Sand was loaded into apail with the siphonhose in the pail. A smallrubber hose insertedinto the sand inlet withthe other end out of the sand allowed air to enter the

hose with thesand, whichhelped to preventclogging. On thedown side, thespray area is onlyabout 25mm (1")in diameter, so ittakes a long timeto clean an area.Also, moisture inthe compressed

air mixed with thesand often cloggedthe nozzle and this

required constant cleaning. Water filters (US$25) on theairline helped to eliminate some of the moisture.Cheaper filters were very fragile and broke easily. Afterblasting, the bottom required only a light sanding andsolvent wash before applying an epoxy primer andantifouling paint.

Basic blasting system.

With a spray pattern of about25mm (1") in diameter, blasting isa slow process but doesn’t dam-age the hull. Owner is wearinggloves, a mask, eye protection andheavy coveralls (not shown) asprotection from the airbornesand, which gets into everything!

Before and after: the cleaned area(right) is very smooth to the touch. Ittook 10 45kg (100lb) bags of sand toclean the 7m (23') hull.

Instead of pouring paint from the can into a paint tray or other container, use aladle to transfer the paint. That way you’ll avoid paint dripping over the canlabel, and you’ll still be able to read the application instructions.

TIPDON’T POUR, LADLE


BOTTOM PAINTING FAQOf all the questions boatowners ask the expertsat Interlux, these 8 are themost common.

DIYer WandaGray, prepsthe bottomon “DreamWeaver III,”an Alberg 37.

Q: How should I choose an antifoul-ing for my boat? A: Besides selecting bottom paintfor the type of water where youboat, whether freshwater, saltwateror brackish, the most important con-sideration is how often you use yourboat. You don’t need any coatingon the boat’s bottom if it’s moved

constantly. If used once a week, thenapply an ablative paint, such asMicron CSC or Micron Extra. Everyouting generates a fresh coat of cop-per, renewing the antifouling proper-ties. Boats that are used more fre-quently require a hard paint thatleeches out, such as Ultra-Kote,rather than wears off. Two or threecoats of a hard paint can last up to18 months no matter how far orhow fast you travel.

Q: Does my new fiberglass boatrequire application of a barrier coatbelow the waterline? A: A new boat has a very dry hullAfter launching, the boat’s bottomimmediately starts to soak up water.Though most boatbuilders offer a

limited hullwarranty, it’susually pro-rated over afew years. Ifyou’re plan-ning to keep

your boat, it’s worth spendingUS$60 per gallon for a barriercoat. Besides the maintenance fac-tor, you’ll get better return on yourinvestment when selling the boat.

Q: Is it necessary to sand after prim-ing? A: Some manufacturers offer a no-sand primer, but to minimize anychance of flaking, it’s best to sandthe primer before application ofantifouling.

Q: How do I prep a hull that hasnever been painted? A: You must remove the thin film ofmold release wax on the surface,then sand it before applying bottompaint. Wash the hull thoroughlyusing a Fiberglass Solvent Wash202 and agitate the surface with aScotch-Brite pad. Rinse the hull withwater, which should sheet off.Where the water beads, you’ll needto repeat the solvent wash andscrub. Continue flushing the hull with


water until all wax isremoved. Now sand with80 to 120 grit paper. Hullcleaning is important.Sanding heats any remain-ing wax on the surface,

and then pushes it into the open pores in the gelcoat.That will keep any bottom coating you apply for the firstfew years from sticking.

Q: I’ve purchased a boat used in freshwater that hasInterlux VC 17m on the bottom and plan to launch it insaltwater. How do I prep the bottom? A: VC 17m is a very thin film. Either strip with B172, analcohol-based stripper, or denatured alcohol, or overpaintwith a compatible paint, such as ACT. To strip, lightly wetsand with 80-grit paper to open up the pores, soak aScotch-Brite pad with stripper, and scrub.

Q: Are VC 17M or VC Offshore available with Biolux?A: Apparently these products are in the works but theyare stalled in the registration process.

Q: Should I use VC Tar or Interprotect as a barrier coatunder VC 17m? A: Four or five coats of VC TAR comprise the conven-tional undercoat for VC 17m, as it remains more flexiblethen an epoxy system. Nowadays, more and more boatowners are using Interprotect 2000E/2001E. Applyingfive or six coats, sanding the final coat with 320-gritpaper, gives a harder and slicker bottom.

Q: How do I get paint to adhere to my propeller, shaftand strut? A: Painting underwater metals is a four-step process:degrease, etch, prime, then paint. Clean the surface withFiberglass Solvent Wash 202 or its equivalent. Now etchthe metal using an etching solution, such as Viny-LuxPrimewash 353/354. Etching provides the chemical andphysical bond for the primer. Without etching, the primerand paint will flake off in sheets. Cover with an underwa-ter metal primer, suchas Interlux 360R, orepoxy barrier coat.Priming also isolatesthe different metals.These two stepsshould last five to 10years when properlyprepped and primed.Apply a copper-based hard paint, such as FiberglassBottomkote, rather than an ablative paint. Outdrivesrequire a bottom paint specially formulated for aluminum,such as Trilux.


WAT E R TA N K W O E SQ: I inadvertently put several gallons of diesel fuel in my58.5L (70gallon) freshwater tank. Immediately, the tankwas drained and flushed repeatedly while adding bakingsoda and water purifier. Despite my efforts, there is still ataste and smell of diesel. The tank cannot be removed. Isthere any additive or process you could suggest to totallyclean the tank?Jim Pickard, “Sea Saw,” Rock Hall, Maryland

A: DIY contacted three companies, of which two aremanufacturers of chemicals and cleaners, and one pro-duces fuel-cleansing devices. All offered different solutions.As you’ve flushed the tank, it’s likely that you’ve removedthe fuel. The small amount of residue remaining is enoughto give a pronounced taste and smell. Apparently, sodiumcarbonate hydroxy hydrate reacts with hydrocarbons andneutralizes them. Capt. Phab Purge Tank Cleanser is aproduct designed for tank cleaning with this chemical asthe main ingredient. Mixing 56g (2oz) of this powder per8.3L (10gallons) of water is the recommended solution.Add 397g (14oz) to your tank, fill with water, and let itsoak. Then pump it through the system to clean the linesand taps. For ordering information, log onto www.capt-phab.com.

Another possible method to remove the diesel residueand associated odor is to use an enzymatic bilge cleaneraccording to Jeff Tieger of StarBrite. This bio-cleaner liter-ally eats hydrocarbon fluids, turning them into carbondioxide and water. With these cleaners there’s the possibil-ity of sulfur dioxide gas forming, which, besides being ahealth hazard, also corrodes electrical connections.Because of this effect, Tieger doesn’t recommend this typeof bilge cleaner when used on a regular basis. As long asyou vent the fumes coming off the tank (use fans in thearea), there should be no problem on a one-time basis.

Algae-X recommends rinsing the tank with Bio-Solve, aproduct used by fuel refineries to clean storage tanks andoil spills, and to suppress gasoline and oil fires. The con-cern with this product is contamination of the tank afterusage and the resultant health risk.

If all else fails after the various flushing efforts, replaceall the hoses serving the potable water system. A tasteand/or purifying filter for drinking water may also improvethe water quality.

If I paint a transducer will it affect depth readings?

Transducer manufacturer, Airmar Technology, recom-mends applying one thin coating of bottom paint. It won’tharm the transducer or cause erratic readings, and it’s abetter alternative to amassing sea growth.


If you have a house fire, youcall the fire department. If youhave a fire onboard your boatmiles offshore, you must relyon your own resources. Hereare some points to rememberwhen purchasing, installing orservicing your fire fightingequipment.

This is not the time to try tosave a buck by buying anundersized portable fire extin-guisher. Select a size thatmeets or exceeds the require-ments for the volume of the

cabin (or engine compartment) as calculated in cubic meters or cubic feet(length x width x depth). When in doubt, always choose the larger size.Refillable cylinders are more expensive than nonrefillable ones and availablein the 125 cu.ft. size range and larger.

An automatic self-extinguishing system, permanently mounted in the enginecompartment, makes good sense on boats with inboard engines. Using aportable extinguisher to quell an engine room fire means opening the space,which lets in oxygen that fuels the fire. As these units are difficult to aim, theyoften miss the fire source, or are misdirected due to dense smoke or difficultaccess. Fire-suppressing agents in automatic systems, unlike dry chemicalagents, leave no residue and won’t harm the engine or components. Halon wasthe agent of choice for automatic systems until its manufacture was banned in1993. If you have a Halon system, you can still recharge it, but the rechargewill be recycled Halon. Today there are lots of Halon alternates. One economi-cal agent is FE 241, which stands for Floraltetrafloralethane. These systems areheat activated to discharge when ambient engine room temperature reaches,as with Fireboy-Xintex systems, 73.8°C (165°F). A desirable feature is manualoverride. A smoldering electrical fire produces a lot of smoke but very littleheat, hence delaying the automatic discharge. Installation with a dieselengine(s) also requires an automatic shutdown override system installed at thehelm station(s). Since the discharged agent will not stall the engine, continuedrunning may remove the agent via the engine air intakes, possibly allowingthe fire to reignite.

Are your portable fire extinguishers easily accessible and quick to grab? Toomany boats have extinguishers mounted under a sink or hidden in a locker,rather than in a clearly visible location and readily accessible to the spacebeing protected. Never install a unit under a hatch cover or companionway. Anexplosion will blow the cover overboard along with your fire protection. Fireboy-Xintex recommends you check the extinguisher’s pressure gauge dailyand weigh the extinguisher every six months, or at least annually. Refillablecylinders should be hydrostatic tested every 12 years.

Fire fighting effectiveness of all extinguishers and extinguishing systems iscompromised unless you interrupt engine blowers and all sources of ventilation(oxygen). Some larger yachts have automatic systems to close air intake vents.We don’t know of any aftermarket kits available, but I’m sure designing oneisn’t too challenging for the skilled DIYer.

WHAT YOU SHOUD KNOW ABOUT FIRE EXTINGUISHERS


Product ReviewS U R E G R I P P O L Y M E R S H E E T

King StarBoard is an excellentmaintenance-free product toreplace wooden componentsonboard. But it’s very slip-pery, an important shortcom-ing when used for cockpitseats, tables, grab rails, swim platforms and other items. Themanufacturer, King Plastic, has resolved this issue with therelease of King StarBoard AS. It’s the same product as the orig-inal except the surface layer has a textured dot patterndesigned to be slip resistant and promote water drainage.Offered in 12mm (1/2"), 19mm (3/4") and 25mm (1") thick,1.3m by 2.4m (54" by 8') sheets, prices are US$285,US$430 and US$575 respectively.

A quality paint strippershould remove most, if notall, of the coating in theleast amount of time,allow easy cleanup withwater, and achieve apaint-ready finish.

For our paint removertest we used a board finished with three coats of InterluxBrightside applied four years ago over Epiglass epoxy resin.Products tested were Soy Strip from Franmar Chemical, InterluxInterstrip 299E, and 3M Marine Safest Stripper. A fourth strip-per, Take Off, is no longer available and omitted from this dis-cussion. When used properly, these strippers don’t pose a seri-ous health risk. Nevertheless, heed the instructions on the labelscarefully when handling and wear heavy solvent-resistant neo-prene or butyl rubber gloves, a face shield, goggles and protec-tive clothing. Good ventilation is a must, especially when work-ing with a solvent or acid-based stripper. When using chemicalstrippers, be sure to collect shavings in plastic bags for properdisposal.

After thoroughly washing our test surface to remove dirtand other contaminates, we masked three sections horizontally,then divided each section vertically. This grid allowed test resultsbased on exact timed intervals. One by one, each stripper wasapplied over the full width and the results timed carefully.Remarkably, none of the strippers harmed the epoxy. Ambienttemperature was 18°C (65°F). The surface temperature of ourtest board was just slightly warmer. Most strippers work best inwarmer temperatures. All three paint removers tested are “wet”strippers. It’s advisable to cover the surface with plastic wrap toprolong the stripper’s wet time and prevent it from drying.

TAKING IT OFF


Armada Coatings, LC • Havre de Grace, MD21078

(800) 336-9320

easily. This remover required aggressivescraping to remove the finish, but thepaint came off in sheets rather thansmall bits. Interstrip continued to softenthe paint over the next 10 minutes.Again, we allowed only 30 minutesbefore final scraping of the surface. Inthis case, reapplication was needed forcomplete paint removal with a longerwait time. Directions on the label recom-mend a standing time of up to two hoursfor several layers, but the surface mustremain wet. The treated surface wasvery rough, more like 50-grit sandpaper.Interstrip contains no methylene chloride,caustics or acids, but it’s powerpackedwith solvents, namely acetone, toluene,methyl alcohol and ketones.

Though 3M Marine offers morepowerful paint strippers, we opted to testone that is the most environmentallyfriendly. Safest Stripper is a thick pastecontaining dibastic acid esters.Following the instructions on the label,we first sanded with 100-grit paper thenbrushed on a thick coat of stripper andwaited. The longer it has to “cook” thepaint, the better the removal results.Scraping tests were done at three timeintervals. After 1 hour, it had softened lit-tle of the paint. At the 2-hour check, theremover easily enabled the paint to bescraped off in sheets, and an hour later,removed just slightly more paint. Again,

reapplicationwas necessaryfor a completestripping.Once com-pleted, the sur-face was inpaint-readycondition.

Semi-paste paint removers, likeInterstrip 299E and Safest Stripper, arethickly applied with a brush, using alight touch, much like buttering breadrather than aggressive painting.

Initial test results in timed intervals.While not scientific, these results typically doshow that semi-paste formulations perform better than liquid paint strippers toremove our green polyurethane topside paint.They probably also effectively removebottom paint and varnish. Longer wait times would have certainly improved thestrippers’ effectiveness and minimized reapplication.

Soy Strip is a non-petroleum-basedliquid solution made of soybeans andother proprietary ingredients. Apourable-type cap simplified application.Within 14 minutes the paint began tolift. For the next 15 minutes, the stripperwas checked every 5 minutes, the finishscraped, and the results noted. Thoughthis product quickly softened the paintinitially, there was little difference in sur-face finish during our timed intervals.For better effectiveness, it was necessaryto reapply and wait longer, though themanufacturer doesn’t recommend pro-longed exposure times. Where this prod-uct had removed the paint, the surfacewas very smooth, similar to a 150-gritsanded finish.

Interstrip 299E is a brushable, semi-paste solution designed to adhere to ver-tical surfaces. This type works best whenapplied in thick layers with a brush. Asour test board had three coats, about2ml per coat, we dabbed on the stripperabout 3mm (1/8") thick. For best perfor-mance, apply a minimum thickness offive times the density of the coating tobe stripped. Removal happened fast.Within 11 minutes the paint began tolift. At the 15-minute mark it scraped


[ By David & Zora Aiken ]

Keeping The L id OnUnder seat or berth stowage lockerlids (hatches) often don’thave any typeof closure hard-ware. Theselids just sit atoptheir frame-work. When aboat rocks in large waves orwakes, or getsknocked down inheavy weather,these locker lidscould lift off andbecome missiles.

To hold lids secure,install some closure hardware.Door buttons (or turn buttons),those flat pieces of metal that rotate,

work well. You can buy themready-made or assemble yourown. The advantage of the

DIY variety is youcan make a longerretaining bar for a bet-ter hold.

To install, use arouter or chisel to cut

outthe

shapeof the clo-

sure’s base to thesame depth as its

thickness. This flush mountsthe door buttons so they don’t

damage seat cushions that sit on topof the lockers.

Many standard turn buttons arealready mounted on a round base.Be sure to fasten these into the topof the seat locker frame, not into thehatch, as the button must turn overthe end of the hatch.

If you decide to make the clo-sures, buy a 7.6cm or 10cm (3" or4") length of 6mm (1/4") flat metalbar for the turning part. The diame-ter of the base to be routed will ofcourse depend on the length of thismetal section. To attach the button,place a stainless-steel washer overthe top of the locker frame, then usea #10 screw to attach the metal bar.The washer under the bar will allowthe metal piece to turn. Turn buttonsare equally useful for vertical appli-cations such as locker doors. Theyare much more reliable than bayo-net closings or other small cabinethooks.

Tool SafeIf boat traffic in marinas and water-ways is causing things to roll around

or drop overboard, it makesgood sense to secure all itemsthat might become uncontrolledflying objects.

A standard handyman’s tool-

box, a common item on most boats,could launch an entire arsenal of air-borne projectiles. At the very least,an overturned toolbox makes a frus-trating mess. So, find a permanentlocation to stow the box. To build atoolbox frame, screw 25mm (1" )square strips of wood to the cabinsole or inside a locker. Put a “foot-man’s loop” (a rectangular bracketfor holding straps) on each end ofthe frame. Attach a piece of web-bing with quick-release buckles toeach bracket. Place your box in theframe, and then fasten the straps.

Handle HolderA holder for the winch handle

is truly a great idea, asmany racers learn after

donating a few toNeptune. But evena holder doesn’tguarantee the han-

dle stays onboard. Attach a short length of

shock cord or Velcro to the holder.Drop in the handle, and then loopthe strap over the top. This anchorsthe handle in rolling seas, so youavoid an accidental bruising ofankle or knee, and keeps itonboard.

About the authors: David and Zora Aiken arethe authors and illustrators of numerous boat-ing, camping and children’s books, including“Good Boatkeeping” and “Good Cruising”published by International Marine. They liveaboard “Atelier,” in Grasonville, Maryland.

Quick-releasebuckle

Shockcord orVelcro

Framescrewed to sole

Washer

Countersunk latch6mm (1/4”) flat bar

2002 issue #1 –features...rudder fixes:procedures to repair or modify common rudder problems. 44...

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