197005 desertmagazine 1970 may

8/14/2019 197005 DesertMagazine 1970 May

1/44

LUCTSMAY, 1970 50c

MAGAZINE


2/44

S E CL UDE DS L E E P I K B

R H I H B O WGUEST R AN C HIN TH E C APITOL REEF NATIONAL MONUME NT

(A PROPOSED NATIONAL PARK)

Invites you to picturesque Capitol Reef National Monumentcountry, offering delicious food with fresh vegetables from ourone-acre garden, pure soft spring water and no TV. Specialfeatures include cookouts, 4-wheel-drive station wagon tours(choice of 12 different 1-day tours), area horseback riding,geology, photography and early Mormon history sessions.

Let us show you the same country that we didJoyce Rockwood. See article, "Spanish Goldin the Henrys", on page 18 of this issue.

Informal Dining . . . Photo by Byron Crader

Comfortable Accommodations . . Photo by Joyce Rockwood

Write for DetailsS L E E P IN G R A IN B OW G U E S T R A N C H

In C apitol Reef Nat ional M onumentP.O. Box 93, Torrey, Utah 84775

Phone: Long DistanceVia Moab, Utah Exchange

JL7-1167


3/44

WILLIAM KNYVETT, PUBLISHERJACK PEPPER, EDITOR

JACK DELANEY, Staff WriterJ O L E E N R O B I S O N , Woman's Viewpoint EditorG L E N N V A R G A S , Lapidary EditorK . L . B O Y N T O N , Natural in

DtAViLVolume 33, Number 5

M A G A Z I N E

MAY, 1970

C O N T E N T SF E A T U R E S

THE COVER:Backed up by the GlenCanyon Dam, the ColoradoRiver forms Lake Powellwhose waters cover 186miles between the Utahand Arizona border andare surrounded by brilliantsandstone cliffs and fan-tastic formations. Photo byPatricia Sager.

INSCRIPTIONS AT WILLOW SPRINGSDESERT HANGUP

LAKE POWELL A DVENTUR ESPANISH GOLD IN THE HENRYS

A MAN . . . HIS MONUMENTS . . . HIS MISSIONTHROUGH UTAH'S BACK COUNTRY

ARCHES OF WHITE MESARUINS OF TALL HOUSE

by Mildred Hooperby K. L. Boyntonby Jack Pepperby Joyce Rocktvoodby Bill Knyvettby Ronald Sbofnerby Jack Pepperby Milo Bird

D E P A R T M E N T SA PEEK IN THE PUBLISHER'S POKE

RAMBLING ON ROCKSBOOK REVIEWS

DESERT GARDENINGCALENDAR OF WESTERN EVENTS

WOMAN'S VIEWPOINTLETTERS

by William Knyvettby Glenn and Martha Vargasby Jack Pepperby Eric JohnsonClub Activitiesby Joleen A. RobisonReader's Comments

ELTA SHIVELY, Executive Secretary MARVEL BARRETT, Circulation ManagerEDI TOR IAL A N D CIRC ULA TION OFFIC ES: 74-109 Larrea, Palm Desert , Cal ifornia 92260, AC 714 346-8144. N A T I O N A L ADVER-TI SI NG OFF ICE S: 8560 Sunset Blvd., Suite 601, Los Angeles, California 90069 , AC 213 659-381 0. Listed in Standard Rate and Data.Subscription rates: United States, Canada & Mexico, 1 year, $5.0 0; 2 years, s$9.5O, 3 years, $13-00. Other foreign subscribers add $1.00 cur-rency for each year. See Subscription Order Form in this issue. Allow five weeks for change of address and send both new and old ad-dresses with zip codes. Desert Magazine is published monthly. Second class postage paid at Palm Desert, California and at additional mail-ing offices und er Act of Ma rch 3, 1879. Contents copyrighted 1970 by Dese rt M agazine and permission to reproduce any or all contentsmust be secured in wri t ing. Unsol ici ted m anuscripts and photographs W ILL N O T BE RET URN ED unless accompanied by a sel f-ad-dressed and stamped envelope.


4/44

T R E A S U R EF U N ! .,Metalert turnsanordinary weekend intoa family adventure.

Going to the beach? O r hunting, fishingor camping? You can add extra fun toyour next family outing by taking alonga Fisher "Metalert" Treasure Detector.Who knows, you might bring home avaluable lost relic; even silver and gold! Unsu rpassed power and sensitivitywith solid state circuits. Easy to use; adjusts and operateswith one hand! Superb physical bal-ance; arm support. Waterproof sensing head completelysubmersible. Telescoping shaft forcompact storage and transportation. Replaceab le transisto r battery avail-able everywhere; built in tester.Built to the same exacting standards asFisher precision instruments for indus-try and science. Send for complete freeliterature. Also, collectors ' editionguidebook "Discoveries From the Past"sent if you include 50


5/44

R a m b l i n gH o c k sby Glen n and Martha Vargas

THE USE of turquoise as a gem ante-dates written history. The tur-quoise of the Old World originated inthe deserts of the Middle East, and isstill mined in Iran, formerly called Persia.The turquoise is still known as Persianmaterial. Some of this is the finest to befound anywhere. New World turquoisewas probably in use before that of theOld World. The Incas and Aztecs, andsome of the civilizations that predatedthem, used the gem for inlaying orna-ments and other objects of art. Many ofthe world's museums contain excellentexamples of the fine workmanship, andphotographs of some of these objects ap-pear at times in books and periodicals.

The interesting part of the story ofthe New World turquoise is that the onlyknown possible source of the materialused by the ancients is our own desertsouthwest. The first mines worked wereprobably in what is now New Mexico.As the use of the gem increased, and thedemand became greater, mines wereopened in areas now occupied by Ari-zona, Nevada and California. Some ofthe mines now producing turquoise were"discovered" in recent times as preworkedtunnels and shafts. Some contained an-cient stone and wood tools and othersigns of mining operations.

The method of mining was evidentlyvery crude, as evidenced by the crudetools left behind by the operators. Thebasis of the mining operation in mostmines was to build a fire around the de-sired seam and then quench the over-heated rocks with water. This made smallcracks that could then be opened withtheir took. Undoubtedly, the turquoisewas somewhat cracked in the quenchingprocess, but as small gems were usuallythe end product, this probably did not

create a problem. The problem of shap-ing and polishing the larger pieces thatmust have appeared from time to timewas probably much more vexing.It is not definitely established just whoworked the ancient mines, but it appearsreasonable it was not the South Ameri-can peoples who used the gems. Thisconclusion is based on the fact that near-

ly all tribes of American aborigines exer-cised territorial rights and usually wouldnot allow parties of another tribe to crosstheir lands. Some type of trade flourishedbetween nearly all adjoining tribes ofthese peoples, thus it is logical to assumethat turquoise was traded southward.The ramifications of the process musthave been most interesting when oneponders the situation. The Indians wholived in the regions containing the mines

probably became miners because of thedemand for the beautiful blue stone.They needed something from the pro-vince or provinces to the south, so therough material was bartered in that dir-ection. This trade must have been repeat-ed many times before the turquoisereached its final destination. It is verydoubtful that an emissary could havedone the mining, or made the originaltrade, and then transported the stonesouthward. To carry out such an opera-tion, the emissary might have had to paytribute every time he crossed the border.

All that would have been necessary tostart the trading process would be to con-vince individuals along the route the ma-terial had value to the south, and theflow would start. This was probably fa-cilitated by the beauty of the material.Turquoise is one of the few gem materialsthat is nearly as beautiful in the roughas it is in the finished form. It certainlywould be much easier to start a flow oftrade with a beautiful rock, rather than

one that was drab, but later would finishinto a beautiful gem.How the rough material was fashionedinto gems is probably not completelyknown, but various known tools and pre-sent cutting methods among primitivepeoples give us clues to complete thestory. Turquoise is a fairly soft material,about 5 to 6 in hardness on a scale of 10.

Sand, being composed of quartz whichis 7, has been used to shape materialssuch as turquoise. Sandstone, sand ce-mented into a rock, could easily havebeen used to shape gems of almost anyreasonable form. The use of other slight-ly porous stone of about 7 in hardness,and having a smooth surface, would tendto smooth and even polish the gem. Thistype of gem cutting is very crude andtime consuming, but it undoubtedly wasthe only obvious method open to thesepeoples.In some parts of the world today,primitive and even civilized peoples arefashioning gems with methods that arenot much more highly refined. The lackof a high lusterous polish probably didnot perturb the ancients, as the materialwas very colorful to begin with, and anyshaping or smoothing was a decided im-provement. A high lusterous polish wasundoubtedly unknown to them, so theusual results must have been satisfactory.The present advanced art of the Amer-ican Indian in his use of turquoise is con-sidered by some to be a remnant of theoriginal art of the ancients. There is dis-agreement on this, and the matter needsfurther ethnological investigation. It isinteresting to note, however, the presentuse of turquoise by the Indians of thesouthwest does not demand a perfectlycut, highly polished gem. Whether or notthe present art is a remnant of the origin-al art, the present craftsmen feel that

color, pattern, and an intriguing shapeare the most important features of a tur-quoise gem. If it is difficult to polish agem of this type, then polish becomessecondary.This type of elastic thinking allows fora full expression of the art, both in thecutting of the gem, and its incorporationinto a piece of jewelry. The ancients tookthe same course; that of making the mostof what was at hand, and were not boundby inflexible tradition that demanded

something that could be attained only oninfrequent intervals.


6/44

Erie Stanley GardnerWhat kind of man was Erie Stanley Gardner?To mystery fans he was the creator of Perry Mason and other fiction books which

were translated into 30 languages and dialects of which more than 170 million sold inthe United States alone.

To the judges of northern California from 1911 to 1916 he was a dynamic trial law-yer who defended the penniless and friendlessespecially the Mexicans and Chinese.

To the unjustly imprisoned he was the originator of the Court of Last Resort throughwhose tireless efforts scores of innocent prisoners were paroled.To convicts he was a champion of prison reform and rehabilitation.

To law enforcement officers he was a friend, autho rity and counselor on forensicmedicine, criminology and scientific methods of law enforcement.

To those who read his exciting books on the desert and Baja California and articleson his expeditions in this magazine he was an adventurer and archeologist, probing intothe lit t le-known areas of the West.

To the people of Baja California he was a patron saint, bringing them food, clothingand suppliesnot as a gratuity or handout, but as an expression of his appreciation fortheir accepting him into their homes and hearts.

To Erie Stanley Gardner he was a "storyteller" who resigned from his law practice"to search for more color in life." Ironically, after setting a writing pace unmatched by anyother author, he had to ask himself: "Why does a man become a slave to the very thinghe hoped would set him free?"

To his intimate friends and back country associates, he was "Uncle Erie"a tirelessexplorer who always wanted to know what was around the next desert wash or over thenext mounta in . . . a man who instilled excitement with a sense of adventure in others . . .a man of deep compassion with a sense of individual dignity . . . a man who never losthis sense of hum or nor degraded his fel low man . . . a man who had a natural and simplelove for children and animals and who, in turn, was loved by them.

Uncle E rie's greatest plea sure Was -sitting around an open ca mpfire at night, tellingstories and listening to others and then falling asleep under the stars. He will no longerphysically see those stars for the body of Erie Stanley Gardner died on March 11, 1970.

But for those of us who have a greater physical and spiritual freedom as a result ofhaving known Erie Stanley Gardner, he is not deadhis compassion, sense of humor andlove of his fellow man will l ive long after we ourselves have told our last story under thedesert stars.JACK PEPPER.

R e v i e w sby Jack Pepper

BAJA CALIFORNIABy Cliff Cross

For many years Cliff Cross has pub-lished and brought up to date an excellentguide to the mainland entitled Mexico,Auto, Cam per and Trailer Guide.

After several years of research and per-sonal investigation in this "last frontier"land, he has published a similar guide forBaja California. "Baja" is a Spanish wordmeaning "lower." Like his book on themainland, his new guide is well illus-trated and has excellent detailed maps ofthe villages and bays along the 1000-mileroute from the Mexican border to the tipof Baja.Approximately 800 miles of this routeis unpaved and should only be traveledwith high-clearance traction vehicles orfour-wheel-drive rigs. Volkswagens andsome high-clearance passenger cars domake the trip, but the drivers are veteransof desert driving and evidently do notmind a broken axle or loss of an oil pan.In addition to travel information, Crossgives the best fishing spots and a historyof the areas. I have long said the only

guide book to Baja is Gerhard and Gu-lick's Lower California Guide Book. Inow recommend anyone going to Bajashould also include Cross's new book.Armed with both books, you can't missthe roadsand can't miss having the timeof your life.Large format, well illustrated, heavypaperback, 170 pages, $3.50.LOST LEGENDS OF THE WESTBy Brad W illiams and Choral Pepper

All historians are not agreed it wasHorace Greeley who advised young mento "go West." Regardless of the advicewhich again may or may not have beenwisethe "West" meant a geographicalarea of the United States.When authors today write about the

(Continued on Page 34)


7/44

D e s e r t M a g a z i n e B o o k S h o pMETAL DETECTOR HANDBOOK by Art Lassagne,2nd edition. Includes history, operat ing tech-niques, interpretat ion of signals, and Directoryof Manufacturers . One of the most completehandbooks of its kind. Paperback, 65 pages.$3 . 00 .DEATH VALLEY U.S.A. by Kenneth Alexander.An excel lent photographer, the author presentsthe moods and history of Death Valley throughhis pictures and descript ive text. One of thebest quali ty books published on Death Val ley .Beaut iful gif t . Large 9 x 1 1 format , qual i typaper, profusely i l lustrated, hardcover, $8.50.SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA by the Editors of Sun-set Books. An i l lustrated guide to Southern Cal i -fornia, this is another in Sunset Books series. Itpresents in capsule form most of the interest ingplaces to visit in the Southland. Heavy paper-back, 8 x 1 1 format , 128 pages, $1.95.GUIDE FOR INSULATOR COLLECTORS by JohnC. Tibbitts. This is the th i rd and f inal book oninsulators by veteran bott le col lector John Tib-bit ts. This third book has a revised price listand index to insula.ors described in the pre-vious two volumes. However, each volume de-scribes insulators not shown in the other books,so for a complete roundup of all insulators, allthree volumes are needed. Books are paper-back, averaging 120 pages, i l lustrated withart ists drawings, $3.00 EACH. WHEN ORDER-IN G BE SURE TO STATE VOLUME NUMBER: ONE.TW O or THREE.BODIE: GHOST TOWN 1968 by Thomas W.Moore. This book could very well be t i t ledGhost Tow n, U.S.A. for the author-photographerhas captured the moods of the past and presentof Bodie, typical of the hundreds of the onceboisterous mining camps of the West. His imag-inat ive text and outstanding four-color andblack and white photographs make this an im-portant volume in Western Americana collect ions.Large 9 x 1 2 format , fu l l -page photographs onqual i ty paper, hardcover , $8.50.CALIFORNIA, A G uide to the Golden State.Edited by Harry Hansen and newly revised, itcontains an encyclopedia of facts from earlyWays up to the Space Age. Mile by mile de-scriptions to camping spots and commercial ac-commodations. Maps. Hardcover, $8.95.JEEP TRAILS TO CO L O RADO GHO ST TO WNS byRobert L. Brown. An i l lustrated, detai led, infor-mal history of l i fe in the mining camps deep inColorado Rockies. Fif ty-eight towns are includedthe almost inaccessible mountain fastness of theas examples of the vigorous struggle for exist-ence in the mining camps of the West. 239pages, i l lus t rated, end sheet map. Hardcover$5 . 50 .

W H E N O R D E R I N G BO OKSP L E A S E

Add 50 cents PER ORDER(Not Each Book)

for handling and mailingC A L I FO R N IA R E S I D E N T S A L S O

AD D 5 P E R C E N T S A L ES TAXSend check or money order to Desert Maga-zine Book Shop, Palm Desert, California92260. Sorry , but we cannot accept chargesor C.O.D. orders.

ARIZON/

T R A VE L G U I D E TO A RIZ ONABy the EDITORS OF SUNSET BOOKSA completely revised edition, this travelguide to Ariiona is a clear and conciselook at the people, way of life and thescenic attractions of the w estern state.N ew maps, photographs and descriptivematerial provide travel data on theG rand Canyon, Nav ajo-Hopi Indian coun-try , Southwestern Arizona and the state'smany ak es, rivers and main cities. Largeformat, four-color cover, heavy paper-back, 96 pages.

$1.95MAMMALS OF DEEP CANYON by R. Mark Ryan .A study of the habits of more than 40 animalsl iv ing in the Deep Canyon Research Area in theColorado Desert. The site was selected becauseits ecology is t ypical of deserts throughout thewor l d . Paperback, i l lustrated, 137 pages, $2.95.LOWER CALIFORNIA G UIDE BOOK by G erhardand G ulick. The authors have revised the th i rdedit ion to br ing it up to date. Veteran travelersin Baja California would not venture south ofthe border without this authoritat ive volume. Itcombines the fascinat ing history of every loca-t i on , whether it be a town, miss ion or aban-doned ranch, with de tai led mileage maps andlocations of gasoline supplies, water and otherneeded information on Baja. 243 pages withthree-color folded map, 16 detai led route maps,4 city maps, 22 i l lustrat ions. Hardcover $6.50.S U N , SAND AND SOLITUDE by Randall Hender-s o n . For more than 50 years Randall Hendersonhas traveled across the deserts of the West unt i ltoday he is known as the voice and prophet ofthis region of mystery, solitude and beauty.Founder of Desert Magazine in 1 9 3 1 , he has de-voted his life to unders tanding the great out-doors. His second and latest book is a culmin-at ion of his experiences, thoughts and philoso-phy. Hardcover, deluxe format, deckle-edgedpaper, 16 pages ful l color, excellent i l lustrat ions,$7 . 95 .EXPLORING CALIFORN IA BYWAYS DESERTCO UNTRY by Russ Leadabrand. The author takesyo u on 1 1 tr ips through the desert country ofCalifornia, including both passenger car andfour-wheel-drive excursions. An excellent andauthoratat ive wr i ter , he also brings in historicalbackground. This is Volume Three. Volume Onecovers the Kings Canyon to the Mexican Borderand Volume Two, t r ips around Los Angeles. Allare paperback, well i l lustrated with photos anddetai led maps. Each book is $1.95. WHEN OR-DERING BE CERTAIN TO STATE VOLUME NUM-BER: ONE, TWO or THREE.

MINES OF DEATH VALLEY by L. Burr Belden.About fabulous bonanzas, prospectors and lostmines. Paperback. $1.95.ANZA-BORREGO DESERT GUIDE by Horace Par-ker. Third edit ion of this well- i l lustrated anddocumented book is enlarged considerably. Topsamong guidebooks, it is equally recommendedfor research material in an area that was crossedby Anza, Kit Carson, the Mormon Bat ta l ion,'49ers, Railroad Survey parties, Pegleg Smith, theJackass Ma i l , Butterf ield Stage, and today 'sadventurous tourists. 139 pages, cardboardcover , $3.50.BAJA CALIFORNIA by Joseph Wood Krutch,Photographs by Eliot Porter. Baja California isthe stage selected by the author and photo-grapher to present their moving and graphicappeal to keep certain areas of the wor ld intheir natural state so man can cont inue to havethe t ime and place to f ind peace in a silentwor ld . Heavy paperback, 73 four-color photo-graphs, 160 pages, $3.95.HISTORY OF THE SIERRA NEVADA by Francis P.Farquharn. A lively history of the Spaniards,Argonauts, pioneers, mil i tary troops and rai l -road builders who conquered the rugged SierraNevada Mountains which formed an ear ly -day400-mi le- long barr ier a long the Cal i forn ia andNevada border. Paperback, i l lustrated, 262pages, $2.65.THE CAHUILLA INDIANS by Harry James. A comparat ively smal l and l i t t le known t r ibe, theCahuil la Indians played an important part inthe early sett lement of Southern California.Today the Cahuil la Indians are active in socialand civic affairs in Riverside County and ownvaluable proper ty in and around Palm Springs.Long out of print, this revised edit ion is theonly authent ic and complete history of thesenat ive Americans. Hardcover, i l lustrated, 185pages, $7.50.30,000 MILES IN MEXICO by N ell Murbarger.Joyous adventures of a t r ip by pick-up campermade by two women f rom T i juana to Guate-mala. Folksy and enter ta in ing, as wel l as in-structive to others who might make the t r ip ,Hardcover, 309 pages, $6.00.100 ROADSIDE FLOWERS by Nat t N. Dodge. Acompanion book to his 100 DESERT WILDFLOW-E R S , this book lists 100 f lowers growing in the4 , 500 to 7,000 foot levels. Like the companionbook, every f lower is i l lustrated in 4-colorphotographs. Excellent to carry in car dur ingweekend tr ips for f am i l y fun. Paperback, 64pages, $1.50.

DE A TH V A L L E Y B OOK SPublished by the Death Valley '49ers thesefive volumes have been selected by '49ersas outstanding works on the history of DeathVal ley . All are durable paperback on slickstock.A NATUR ALIST'S DEATH VALLEY (Revised edi-tion) by Edmund C. Jaeger, ScD $1.50MANLY AND DEATH VALLEY. Symbols of Des-t iny , by Ardis Manly Walker $1.25GOOD BYE, DEATH VALLEY! The story of theJayhawker Party, by L. Burr Belden $1.50CAMELS AND SURVEYORS IN DEATH VALLEYBy Arthur Woo dward $2.00DEATH VALLEY TALES by 10 di f ferent au-thors $1.25

F O R C O M P L E T E B O O K C A T A L O G W R I T E TO D E S E R T M A G A ZIN E , PA L M D E S E R T , C A L IF OR N IA 9 2 2 6 0


8/44

AT WILLOW SPRINGS, 17 miles north. of Cameron, Arizona, there are ap-proximately 100 signatures legible on oldtablets of rock along a narrow canyontrail on which pioneers inscribed theirnames and the dates of their visits from1873 to 1890.

Some chiseled their signatures rough-ly, indicating a minimum of time inwhich to stop, rest and sign before mov-ing ahead. Many carved their autographscarefully, suggesting a longer stay formaking deft cuts in the rock. A few art-fully carved their names revealing extraleisure for aesthetic expression.Although just a small stream seeping

out of the rocky hillside, Willow Springshad undoubtedly served a number ofpeople passing through the north-centralArizona desert. The spring was one of thefew watering places between the Littleand the Colorado Rivers. Even prehistoricman paused and pecked his symbol intothe ancient ledgers.It was a spring day when we foundourselves speculating on these inscrip-tions along the rising, ruddy-coloredwalls hemming in Willow Springs. We

had found the chiseled signatures by ac-cident while searching throughout that

by Mildred Hooper

morning for prehistoric petroglyphs atthe base of northern Arizona's EchoCliffs.Other evidences suggested more of thesignificance of Willow Springs. An erod-ed trail, indented with deep ruts, sug-gested the passage of many coveredwagons. And an old tire iron planted atthe side of a bridge gulley marked a pre-ferable route over which the wagonscould pass.Several hundreds yards from the rockinscriptions were the crumbling ruins ofan old rock building. Carved under anoverhanging rock in the canyon was thephrase: "OH THAT MEN WOULDPRAISE THE LORD FOR HIS GOOD-NESS AND FOR HIS WONDERFULWORKS."We were eager to learn who the people

were who had stopped at Willow Springs.Why had they traveled through suchdesolate, primitive territory? Did thesepeople of obvious fortitude accomplishtheir mission? It took us a year to finallyfind an answer to our questions.Our quest for information began at anearby hogan. English-speaking Navajoshad passed the inscriptions many timesbut knew nothing of their origin. Next


9/44

we visited the old Mormon graveyard inTuba City, a few miles away. Severalproper names on the tombstones corres-ponded to those names at Willow Springs.The Mormon Geneological Branch Li-brary in Mesa, Arizona directed us toJesse Nelson Perkins III and his sisterand family historian, Mrs. Rhoda PerkinsWakefield. In their Mesa home the

Willow Springs story was revealed.Perkins and his sister were amazed tolearn the signatures of four Perkinses onthe walls at Willow Springs were thoseof their father and of three of theiruncles.M r s . Wakefield produced an unpub-lished journal recorded by a fourth uncle,Brigham Young Perkins. It described thefirst Mormon migration southward fromUtah into Arizona. The route was by theway of Willow Springs. Some of the

names and dates tallied with inscriptionson the "ledgers."Recalling the story which had beentold to her, Mrs. Wakefield said, "Brig-ham Young called about 100 missionariesto Salt Lake City. They met in the oldtabernacle where Young asked the mento make settlements on the Little Colo-rado River and its tributaries."

(Continued on Page 36)

Ruins of the oldcombined fort andtrading post are seenin center. Wagontrail from Lee's Ferryfollowed along baseof E cho Cliffs inbackground. Photo byC. R. Hooper.

O N L Y G O L D L OOKS L IKE G O L D !ON LY TH E WH ITE'S S-63 TR DEL UXE offers these outstanding features:

ALL TRANSISTORIZED SOLID STATE CIRCUITRYN o finer instrument ^ SENSITIVE WATERPROOF LOOP CAN BE USED IN WATERa v aila ble a t th is p ric e! ^ g ^ ^ . SIMPLE TO OPERATE if EASY BUDGET TERMS

TWO-YEAR GUARANTEE$179.50

Locate coins, jewelry, relics, natural go ld , and silver nuggets.This "quality-engineered" detector features an all-transistor,solid state circuitry, waterproof 3-in-l loop; and easeof ope rati on. Send for FREE LITERATURE RoomUse your BankAmericard or Master ChargeW H I T E ' S E L E C T R O N I C S , I N C .1 2 1

1011 Pleasant Valley Rd.Sweet Home, Oreg on 97386

H Y D R A U L I CC O N T R O L

_ D 0 W N FOR TRAVEL SAFETY. Wind resistance is reduced with Alaskan's low profile in highway t r a v e l . Gas mileage is increased and crosswind cut down. With lowered top, passengers ride inluxurious comfort.A l I P FOR LIVING C OMFORT. Alaskan camper top, operated by patented hydraulic system, is raisedin seconds. (Let a child do it, and see how easy it is.) Safety lock prevents accidental lowering.Weather-tight, walk-in quarters completely furnished. Three-burner stove, stainless steel sink,cabinets, icebox, beds, plus many other luxury features.

8 ft. and 10 ft. models. Sold and installed only at Alaskan Camper factories at factory prices.Also available at authorized factory outlets.Write today to the factory nearest you for free folder describing the most advanced camper on the road

R. D. HALL MFG. , INC., 9847 Glenoaks Blvd.,Sun Valley, (San Fernando Valley)California 91352, Dept. DlFactory Outlet: ALASKAN CAMPER SALES, INC.,Interstate 80 (half way betweenS.F.-Sacramento), Route 1,Box 332, Suisun City, Calif. 94585, Dept. D1AL ASKAN CAMP ERS NO RTHWEST , INC.,6410 South 143rd Street, (Tukwila) Seatt le,Washington 98168, Dept. 01P ENNACAMP , INC . , 401 West End Avenue,U.S. PATENT NO. 2879103

G . R. GRUBBS MFG. , I NC . ,d/b/a Alaskan Camper Sales, 9042 Long-point Rd., Houston, Texas 77055, Dept. D1FO RT L UP TO N CAMP ERS , 1100 Denver Ave.Fort Lupton, Colorado 80621, Dept. D1E INARS CAMPER MFG. CO .,d/b/a Alaskan Campers North Central,3726 North 9th Avenue, Sioux Falls,South Dakota 57104, D ept. D1Manheim, Penn. 17545, Dept. Dl


10/44

DESERTH A N G d nWHEN IT comes to desert livingwith the least work, Macrotus("big ears") californicns, the CaliforniaLeaf-Nosed Bat really has the system.This fellow is a dweller in caves and

deserted mine tunnels; in grottos, incovered recesses under big bridge spans.None of the usual bat style squeezinginto cracks and crevices or creeping underhouse shingles for him. He likes elbowroom a cavity large enough to flyaround in and a good big ceiling area tolook over for a roosting spot.For Macrotus is a hanger-upper agenus who goes soundly asleep danglinghead down hung up by the claws of thehind feet, or if he feels like it, by only

one foot. Hung up nearby are friendsand relations, each spaced apart from theother. These bats like company and plen-ty of it, but being individualists, theykeep their roosting distance.Now cave and grotto and old mine liv-ing is just the thing for desert locations,for inside such places the temperature iscool in summer (84 F inside, 110 in theshade outside) and moderate in winter.Congregating thus simplifies social prob-lems, proximity removing the need for

long wooing safaris. So the old popula-tion rolls along with the minimum ofeffort.Pendant hanging takes a bit of doingsince the foothold must be secure, yetthe body is relaxed, permitting the bat torest not only during the summer days, butduring the months of torpid inactivityduring winter.So how does Mac do it? BiologistVaughan set about finding out. Using

high, speed photography plus a lot of hardanatomical work on bones and muscles,W

he produced findings that not only madehis study a classic, but pointed out thisbat's great efficiency for desert living.Take coming in for a landing, for ex-ample. This entails a remarkable perform-

ance, for Mac has to do a precision jobof parking among other parked bats, andit takes a real sense of distance and judg-ment of speed, plus flight mastery. Zoom-ing in on the level to within a few inchesof the ceiling, he makes a sudden sharpupward swoop, a fancy half-roll, a reachwith the hind feet, and the claws connect,gripping the ceiling. A bit of wing fold-ing, and he's set.He actually lands at a good clip, yetthe shock problem is neatly handled bybody shock absorbers. These consist of

especially big muscles that double up therear of his body, pulling the pelvis for-ward as he lands, curving that section ofthe backbone and bracing it with a firmbut elastic hold. The impact blow travelsup his legs through his pelvis, loses forcein the elastically arched back, and is ab-sorbed finally in the muscles.

The claws themselves make the mostof the slightest roughness in the ceilingbecause they are so strongly hooked. Evenwhen the bat is sound asleep, this grip ismaintained by muscles in his legs whichextend the feet, holding the toes firmlyagainst the ceiling. The claws can't slip.Old Mac, hanging head downwards,wings loosely folded, may let go with one

foot, and using his toenails, carefully


11/44

by K. L Boynton 1970

comb his fur, neating up here and therebefore relaxing completely and driftingoff to sleep the hot day hours away.Belonging to the brotherhood of night-time operators, these leaf-nosed bats (so

called because of folds of naked skindecorating that portion of their faces)emerge around an hour after sunset, com-ing out a few at a time. Take-off fromthe roost is done without jostling theneighbors, simply by letting go of theceiling, dropping in a downward swoop,and straightening into a level flight.The foraging system usual to insect-eating bats is a fast flight, erratic andhigh, whereby insects are caught on thewing. Thanks to a built-in radar system

developed millions of years ago, bats

The fierce little faceof the leaf-nosedbat (above) andthe dramaticphoto of the batin flight (left)were captured on filmby L. T). Schooler inBlythe, California.

utilize sound waves to avoid hitting ob-stacles. As the bat flies, he emits a seriesof high pitched cries. These sound wavestravel out, bounce off objects and returnto be heard again by the feat in time tosheer off. Keen hearing is a necessity,and Mac has it not only in his big sensi-tive ears, but also in especially well de-veloped brain centers devoted to receiv-ing sound information and acting quicklyupon it.

But he puts his bat equipment to usein his own way in food foraging, a wayparticularly suited to his desert environ-ment, and one that gets big food results,yet involves him in little work. ZoologistHuey, checking stomach contents in his

investigation of the food habits of thesebats, found to his astonishment almostentirely ground beetles, caterpillars andvarious insects that can't fly at all, andinsects such as grasshoppers, butterfliesand dragonflies that rest in foliage atnight, being daytime flyers.

So, he concluded, Mac must help him-self to beetles and the like as these in-sects crawl about bare ground at night,and he must also hunt through the scrag-gly desert shrubs for poorly hidden sleep-ing insects. Such conduct, obviously, isoffbeat in bat circles.And indeed, Huey was right, as

Vaughan's study showed, for while other11


12/44

A U R O R AP R O S P E C T O R S U P P L Y

OFFERS T H E FOLLOWING FAMOUSD E T E C T O R S

W H I T E 'SRAYSCOPEPRECISIONMETROTECHGOLDAKFISHERDET ECT R O N

ALSO AVAILABLEKEEN E DR EDGESSLUICE BOXESDRY WASHERSTOPtl MAPSGOLD PANSA N D O T H ERRELATED EQUIP.

6286 BEACH BLVD.BUENA PARK, CALIF. 90620(714) 521-6321ZIP CODE YOUR MAILFOR FASTER SERVICE

bats zoom around upstairs, Mac is lowflying, never more than 10 feet off theground, and when actively foraging,only 3 feet or less above it.He thus ends up with a more selectivediet: a few big insects rather than thethousands of tiny ones scooped up bythe high flying bats. But big ones fillstomachs faster. Foraging less than two

hours total time, he has time to spare forloafing and resting.Mac makes his capture with his mouth,also using the skin between his legs andtail spread open to form a kind of basketto help hold the insect while he gets abetter tooth hold. Finding a secludedspot, he hangs himself up by a foot, andproceeds to dine, discarding the toughparts and eating only the choice pieces.Equipped with many small teeth in bothjaws, and with molars whose sharp points

B u ll f r o g R e s o r ta n d M a r i n aIN THE ENTER OF

WON DER FUL LAKE POWELLE V E R Y T H I N G Y OU ' L L N E E D FOR A F U N - FIL L E D V AC A T IO N

Trav el trailer hookups Mod ern mobile home units G roceries, snacks, supplies Day & overnight tours

H ouseboat rentals Boat rentals Open & Cov ered boat slips Boat & auto gas & repairs

for completeinformation w rite:B U L L F R O G M A R I N A231 East 4th South,Salt Lake City, Utah8 4111 (8 01) 355-2991

Overlooking the G len Canyon Dam and Spectacular Lake Powell SceneryG LEN C AN YON MOTELPAGE, ARIZONA

RESERVATIONS: (602) 645-2451Or Contact Any Best Western MotelAmerican O il, D iners' C lub, Carte Blanche, American Express

Mr. and Mrs. Deward L. Hall, Managers12

are especially good at cutting up hardshelled insects, he does a thorough job.Then, off for the next course.Because business is so good in the im-mediate environs, his hunting range issmall, no long flying necessary. Hisnight's work seems to involve two mainperiods of dining: one early in the even-ing followed by hours of night loafing,

and the second feeding an hour or sobefore sunrise. Thus his stomach is wellfilled just before he retires to the day-time roost in the home cave or tunnel.Key to success in Mac's style of forag-ing is a low, easy maneuverable flight.Like all bats, Mac has wings made ofskin stretched between the bones of hisfingers. The thumb itself is short with ahooked nail; the other fingers are enorm-ously lengthened and spread out to makea supporting framework that is at once

very strong and very moveable. The wingmembrane goes on up the arm to the bodyand back to the legs. In most species,Mac's included, there is a stretch of it be-tween the legs and tail.Short and broad with a big surface,Mac's wings are designed for extra man-euverability, and are excellent for lowspeed flight. His wings can beat in themany different angles demanded by histwisting, turning maneuvers because of anunusual amount of movement in his armbones. Outsized muscles that raise thewings and turn the arm bones are dividedinto two parts in this bat, and attacheddifferently, which not only greatly in-creases the range of wing action in hisspecies, but allow greater precisioncontrol.In addition, this fellow can actuallyhover, flying upward only stronglyenough to balance gravity pull. Almostvertical in the air, his tail membranespread for lift, and his wings moving infast tiny beats, he can hang in the airfor several seconds at a timejust thething for locating insects trampingaround on the ground or half hidden indesert vegetation.Sooner or later scientists get around tolooking into the domestic affairs of ani-mals, and Zoologist Bradshaw, taking upthe matter with bats living in a old minetunnel near Silverbell, Arizona, foundsome unusual and interesting facts. Gear-

ed to the business of living their style,California Leaf-Nosed reproduction is an-


13/44

other reason fortheir easy life asdesertdwelling bats.It seems that while Leaf-Noses occu-pied the tunnel inconsiderable numbers,the gents inthe spring and early summerlive in small groups in quiet bachelorquarters, away from thenoisy femalesand young. Come July andAugust,themales begin physiologically to preparefor the coming season, being ready, will-

ing and able by September, atwhich timethey rejoin the ladies.The whole bat community isnow con-gregated inone happy group, and put insome three months of socializing. By theend ofNovember, fertilization has takenplace, embryos started to form.But winter is practically here at thispoint and this is notime foryoung batsto beborn. So what happens is"delayeddevelopment" wherein few cells are actu-ally added tothe embryo during the win-ter. Probably thefemale's low tempera-ture during cold weather torpidity slowsdown the process.By March, however, thetempo picks

up. The embryo develops at agood rateduring April and May when the bats areout and active, and byJune, the young-sters are on thescene. Counted back-wards as is the wont atsuch times, it isseen that the total gestation period ofMac's kind is about 8months. But dueto this stalling around, the work can beaccomplished early, development wellstarted while the bats are out of circula-tion, and the young born at the mostfa-vorable time of year. Simple andeasy,this system is also a bigadvantage indesert living.Care of the youngsters iskept simple,

too. They arrive well formed atbirth withmilk teeth, which sharp and recurved areused together with claws for hangingonto Ma's furduring the first few days.After this, the young are hung up on theceiling by themselves. They live ontheirmother's milk forabout amonth at theend ofwhich time their permanent teethare in. They can now go catch their owninsects, and so cease tobe abother to theold folks.What with housing problems solved,food finding made easy even under harshenvironmental conditions, and family re-sponsibility kept to aminimum, no won-der California Leaf-Noses aresuch suc-cessful desert bats. They really have itmade.

W H Y NO T T AK E AN I M AG I NARY T RI P T H RO UG HC A L I F O R N I A . . .I N S O UND?Sit back, relax and listen tothe wonderful sounds ofnaturewhich have been captured on both sides ofthis unusual stereorecord. Close your eyes and imagine Yosemite Water Falls infull flood leaping and bounding on the rocks below . .. hear the return of the swallows to famous SanJuan Capistrano Mission . . .and the delightful sounds of world famous SanFrancisco CableCars . . .listen to theanimals at seal rocks and the seagulls onFisherman's Wharf. . . the bells atMission Deloris and dozens of beautiful bird calls.All these and many more sounds have been recorded on this unique record . . .you will have many

pleasurable hours listening to this 12" LP recording.SOUVENIRS IN SOUNDP . O . B O X 6 91 0 5 0 W . H W Y 66F L A G S T A F F , A R I Z . 8 6 0 01 N o. ofRecords Wanted: Amount Enc losed: .

T o u r s inC a n y o n l a n d s N a t i o n a l P a r k ISLAND IN THE SKY WALKING ROCKS

WASHERWO MANMO NUMENT BAS IN

T o u r s n e a rC a n y o n l a n d s N a t i o n a l P a r k ARCHES NAT IO NAL MO NU MEN T ON ION CREEK HUR RAH PASS MO UN TA IN L OO P SAND FLATS

RATES8 Hours $15 per person4 Hours $1 0 per personSpecial Tours $2 0 per person

Minimum: 2Fares 12 and under 'AFareWalking Rocks in Canyonlands

Al l ourtrips aredesigned especially forI M / ^TT I Mr* CD' C TYM IDC Photo9raPhers' but one vew isLIN VJ I INwtK O IUUKO w o r t h thousand pictures.Moab Rock Shoo. 137 N.Main. Moab, Utah 84532Phone ( 801 ) 253-5121 fo r Reservations SLIDE SHOWNightly , 8 p.m.

TSEOaWESflSAHVfi_iOUppHETR!H.E L f l

TRIPLE RANCH142OO M..INDIAN A V E . \lOfVm PALM SPRINGS PHONE:A.C.714-329-7418 WRITE: PO 60X 348 NO.PA1HSPRNGS CAUE

13


14/44

LakePowellAdventureby Jack PepperA s I STOOD on a ledge 75 feet belowthe surface of Lake Powell andpeered into a giant cave I wondered ifthis might be one of the crevices explor-ed by John Wesley Powell during hisfamous Colorado River trip a century ago.

My underwater exploration of thisgiant man-made lake on the Arizona-Utahborder was three years ago when I usedSCUBA underwater gear to searchbe-fore the rising waters of Lake Powell be-came too deepfor inscriptions made byMajor Powell.I was not exactly looking for a needlein a haystack, since my guide was EarlJohnson, veteran river-runner, who hadphotographed some of the Powell mark-ings before they were covered with water.Despite Earl's pinpointing the site fromthe surface and the excellent underwater

visibility, swift currents defeated my at-tempted discovery.Last fall I returned to Lake Powell fora four-day surface exploration and fish-ing trip. The ledge on which I stood threeyears previously was more than 200 feetbelow the surface and thus now is ex-plored only by catfish and bass.When Major Powell led the first or-ganized expedition of white men downthe Green and Colorado Rivers in 1869to gather scientific data, the one-armedexplorer did not dream that less than onehundred years later the $325,000,000Glen Canyon Dam would tame the turbu-lent river and create one of the largestman-made lakes in the world.Started in 1963 and dedicated in 1967,the 710-foot high concrete structure backsup the Colorado River waters which have

gradually inundated the canyonlands be-tween Utah and Arizona, creating a lake186 miles long with 1800 miles of shoreline in which there is nine trillion gal-lons of waterand hundreds of thou-sands of hungry fish just waiting for alure.Although I had fished Lake Powelland had been overwhelmed by its inde-scribable beauty on several prior occa-sions, it had been in large boats withother people. This time I decided to usea 19-foot inboard so I could explore thehundreds of small canyons and tributaries,many of which had never been seen bywhite man until the encroaching watersof the lake made it possible to get intothe isolated areas.It took only two days of easy drivingto tow my 19-foot Donzie the 600 milesfrom Palm Desert, California to Page,Arizonaa delightful community whichoverlooks the dam and offers completeservices to visitors and tourists.My trip took me through Flagstaff,Arizona and across the western section ofthe Navajo Indian Reservation where Istopped at several Indian trading posts.For those living in the Los Angelesand central California areas another routeof about the same distance is Interstate15 through Las Vegas, Nevada to St.George, Utah where good paved roads

connect U. S. 89 to Page. This scenicroute takes you through Kanab, Utah andthe colorful Vermillion Cliffs.From Page, I drove across the GlenCanyon Bridge, the world's highest steelarch span from which you have a spec-tacular view of Lake Powell on the northand the Colorado River on the south side.On the west end of the bridge is theVisitors Center for the Glen Canyon Re-creation Area of the National Park Ser-vice. Information on the lake and tours

through the dam can be obtained here.As I drove the last few miles to theWahweap Lodge and Marina along thetop of the Wingate Sandstone cliffs abovethe lake I stopped to photograph the sun-set. The contrast of a myriad of blue,yellow, green and red colors caused mylight meter to act like a beserk computer.

Glen Canyon Dam holds backColorado River to form hake Powell.Highway bridge across riverin foreground.


15/44

Largest natural stone archin the world, RainbowBridge is 309 feet high and278 feet wide. All photosby the author.

r


16/44

Wahweap Marina with Lodge and cam ping areas in background.Finally, I gave up and quietly enjoyedNature's kaleidoscope.

I arrived at the Wahweap Lodge intime to have dinner with Art Greene,founder and president of WahweapCanyon Tours, and Harry Goulding, hiscousin and founder of Goulding's Trad-ing Post and Lodge in Monument Valley.Born and raised in the West, these twopioneers grew up in the Navajo countryas ranchers, traders, river-runners andsuccessful businessmen. Today, they aresemi-retired, devoting their time to theNavajo Indians. The lives of these twomen and the part they played in the de-velopment of Arizona and Utah wouldfill several volumes.The Wahweap Lodge and Marina is acomplete resort community overlooking

the south end of Lake Powell. It consistsof the Lodge with more more than 100rooms and suites, a motel on the high-way above, plus trailer and mobile homesites for overnight, weekly or monthlystays. The lodge has a gift shop, drugstore, an Indian trading post and cock-tail bar and restaurant. Prices are excep-tionally reasonable.

Tn the same area is a trailer and campersite administered by the National ParkService for overnight and weekly accom-modations. The Park Service also main-tains the free cement launching rampwhich will handle boats of any size. Ad-joining the ramp is the Wahweap Marinaand Canyon Tours which has a completesupply of marine and camping goods,rental boats, including houseboats, andThe floating marina at the entrance to Rainbow Bridge.

provides one-day and overnight boat ex-cursions to Rainbow Bridge and otherparts of Lake Powell.From the marina, Lake Powell serpen-tines 186 miles through some of the mostspectacular scenery I have ever seen. Thecolors of the rock layers, which centuriesago were under a vast inland sea, varyfrom brilliant reds to a myriad of pastelswhose depth of color changes from sun-rise to sunset.The layers of Navajo, Carmel, Win-gate and Entrada Sandstone, streaked withmanganese seepage, are made even morebrilliant by the contrasts of the blue andgreen waters of the lake. The only way tocapture this color on film is to use dif-ferent filters, hold your breath andbracket. I usually close down a half orfull stop under my light meter reading. . . but I still bracket up and down.To capture the true color of Lake Pow-ell and comprehend the vastness of thisaquatic wonderland and its surroundingmesas and monoliths, you should see itboth from the water and the airwhereyou will see how insignificant you are inrelation to Nature and, once on the lake,all the canyons you want to explore.So the next morning, after putting myboat in the water and getting my camp-ing gear boat-shape, I drove back to Pageand the airport.I was greeted by Royce Knight, ownerand operator of Page Aviation, whom Ifirst met in 1964 when he flew me overthe Colorado when it was just formingLake Powell. A veteran aviator and a"photographer's pilot," Royce knowshow to bank a plane at the right heightand how to keep the sun at the best angle.Royce runs scenic flights over Utah andArizona for individuals or family groups.His prices are very reasonable and more

than worth the fantastic geographicalpicture you get from seeing this part ofAmerica from the air.Two hours after takeoff and with fourrolls of exposed color and black andwhite film on which I recorded severalnatural bridges, including the famousRainbow Bridge, and the water-filledcanyons where prehistoric Indians oncelived, I was back at the marina and head-ed for the giant lake which only an hourearlier had appeared as a slender blue-

colored pendant from 1000 feet above.(Continued on Pctge 38)


17/44

Escalante5,26

F o r general informationpublic services in andaround LPowell, write to:National Parkvice, Glen Canyon National Retion Area, Page, Arizona 8604

NATURALBRIDGES. NATIONAL MONUMENT

alls Crossing

V ,

2GLENCANYONNATIONAL RECREATION AREACrossing of theFathers]

WahweapJ

Hole inthe Rock" ^

F y R A I N B O W B R ID G E- N NATIONAL MONUMENT \ Q]

- 2s i

tPage) 4,300

N //A V A J O

Rainbow Lodge -^ N

CREEK

NAVAJO \ %sr

. A ARIZONA

TRIBALPARK

Oinnehotso^

opp ermine

LGRANDCANYONI NATIONAL PARK

NATIONAL MONUMENVInscription HouseRuin

aibito

\ \ BetatakinV , R u i n "Kayentai5 , 8 0 0 1 J

Aarsh Pass j.6,750 ^

N D I A N

.Willow Springs

H O PTonalea

Tuba City4.550 ,IMoenkopi

R/E S E R VfA 1

Can

.Pinon

I N D I A

KeamsiCanyon

WUPMKIKTI ON AL MONUMENT

H k a Paved Road - - Dirt Road (Automobiles)

zz Primitive Road (Jeeps)R E S R V A T 0 N

T O FLAGSTAFF IT OSUNSET CRATERINATIONAL MONUMENT

Many of these roads are not always passable.Inquiry should be made before attempting a trip.

1 5SCALE IN MILES rOHOlMOOK' REVISED NOVEMBER 1968 APR


18/44

SPANISH TOLOIs the legend of the "OldSpanish Mine" in Utah'sH e n r y M o u nt ai ns t r u e ?Did Indian slaves revolt ,slaying their Spanish mas-ters, and then put a curseon those w ho sought thegold? Did a Yankee engin-eer find the mine only todie before he could reapthe bonanza?

E VERY so often I panic, like a deercatching the scent of smoke, andtake off for some spot as far as I can getfrom the raging fires of civilization. Oneof my favorite refuges is the HenryMountains in southeastern Utah.The Henrys have splendid subalpinemeadows and cool grasslands reachingtoward summits over two miles above sealevel. Rich forests, yawning canyons, andwild cliff faces decorate shoulders ofthe five peaks. A trip through thesescenic beauties stirs up many questions,for the Henrys are full of secrets.Why do geologists say these peaks are

really volcanoes that never erupted? Howcan anyone tell the range is growing aninch a year? What made mapmakers soslow in finding the range? (Until 1878they were merely known as the "Un-known Mountains.") Who were the earlyexplorers purported to have found goldhere and taken some back to Spain?Where is that fabled vein and when will"it be found again?

For me, the Henry Mountains reallybegin 50 miles to the west. On a hilltopabove Pleasant Creek, Lurt and AliceKnee have built their Sleeping RainbowGuest Ranch. At the end of the day the

An educated Yankee engineer turned miner F. T. Wolverton,lived in this cabin (above) which he built in 1916 while digging for gold ore

and constructing the mill (right) which he finished in 1928. Today theabandoned and isolated area of the Henry Mountains is visited by few people.

18

i

\


19/44

THS HENRYSsun colors the peak of Mount Ellen,and the breathtaking Alpenglo is seenthrough a frame of red sandstone.

On each visit to the Sleeping Rainbowsomething new turns up. Most recentlyit was an old mining mill Lurt had heardabout, high on the slopes of Mount Pen-nell. One pleasant morning found a partyof us heading out to find it. The desertscenery from the ranch to the foot of theHenrys is striking and rugged. Ranchesor settlements of any kind are scatteredand few. The one and only through roadwas blacktopped a very few years ago.A generation back, the distance we cov-ered in an hour would have consumedseveral days. Four generations ago, therewere neither roads nor travelers. Settlersfirst came in the 1870s.Once past the great flat mesas which

serve as foothills, the road climbs quick-ly into a fresh, green world. Higher still,the panoramas widened, showing dram-atic patterns in the corrugated terrain.There seemed no place for man in thevast rocky empire from the San RafaelSwell, south along the Waterpocket Fold,with volcanic-capped Thousand Lake andBoulder Mountains shouldering into thesky to the west in Utah's High PlateauCountry.

Around a few more turns of the roadwe came on a herd of buffalo; some 50bulls, cows and light brown calves. Onebig old fellow, with shaggy goatee andthick coat, ambled over to an open spot,rolled in the dust with a flourish ofhooves and horns, and then shook him-self. Lurt inched the car closer and wephotographed them. But after a few shots

by Joyce Rockwoodthey took alarm and went thunderingdown a slope.

At noon we found a lunch spot near astream, deep in the forest with sprucefir and yellow pine. When we were cleaof the trees again and passing under therocky abutment called The Horn, wcould see storms brewing, moving infrom more than one direction. For threst of the day we played hide-and-seekwith heavy rain clouds.It was afternoon when we reachedCoyote Benches and started up a littleused road along Straight Creek. At thend of the road were two small cabinin a clearing, used by miners when theywork on mining claims.The cabins were the first signs of maup here in the mountains and seeing themin this secret place brought a thrill oanticipation. Could we be coming close tthe heart of the secret ?We hiked through an open forest, going steadily up with rocky pinnaclemarking the head of the canyon undethe peak of Mount Pennell. How manfeet, we wondered, had followed thilittle trail which is wiped clean of fooprints by each winter's snow?Stories of early Spanish exploration ithe Southwest indicate they went intmore remote spots than written recordshow. Human bones, a date or namscratched in some unexpected place sup

port the theory. The "Old Spanish Minein the Henrys is one of those mixtures ofact and fancy.A long time ago, the tale goes, Spaniards were led to a rich vein of gold bIndian guides. The Spaniards were crutaskmasters, branding the Indians, working them until they dropped. The ntives rebelled, driving away any whimen they failed to kill. The mine opeing was closed and hidden. The medicinmen cursed it, promising misfortune an

death to anyone who found or revealethe vein.


20/44

AuthorizedJEEPSales and ServiceL A R G E S T S U P P L Y OF

N E W AN D U SED J EEP PARTSI N THE W E S T .Looking for aJeepTr y us!

BRIAN CHUCHUA 'SFO U R WH E E L D R IV E C E N T E RDept. DM 1625 S. Harbor Blvd.Fullerton, C alifornia

$$ TREASURE $$New revo l u t i onary ana l y t i ca lt r ans i s t o r i zed meta l de tec torwil l dist inguish a gold bar froma tin can. Nomore unnecessarydigging for tincans, nai ls, bott lec a p s , etc.Also features pushbut ton tuning, automatic tun ing,loudspeaker. Negligible groundpickup. Greatest detection range,etc. Many models free catalog.

G A R D I N E R E L E C T R O N I C S CO.D tp t . 21

4 72 9 No . 7 th Am. , Phoenix, Ariz. 85013

GIVE TkswLSubscriptions as Gifts

To See"Something Different" Go WithMONUMENT Vxlley

COWEN SANCJS TOURSYEAR ROUND TRIPS INCLUDE:White Mesa, outstanding arches and canyons.Blue Canyon, colored monoliths (jeep only).Monument Valley, arches, ruins, sand dunes,Navajo hogans where you can't go wi t h -out guide. Photograph interesting Indians.Hunt's Mesa, birds-eye view of MonumentsMystery Valley, prehistoric ruins, arches.Hoskininni Mesa, all day through NarrowCanyon to rim overlook. Indian ruins,dinosaur tracks, unusual rock formations.Monument Valley in Wintertime. Totally newface of TheValley when snow mantles thebrick-red monuments. Overlooked by many.

Wri te for BrochuresBOX 187

KAYENTA, ARIZONA, 86003Telephone (602) 697-3424Bill andDillard Craw ley

20

As the years passed, Indians told thestory around their campfires, handing itdown from one generation to another.Eventually white men returned to theregion and heard the story. The searchhas gone on ever since. We had just de-cided that maybe it hadbeen found andreworked when the trail brought us tothe oldWolverton Mill. It is an amazingstructure even though great slabs ofshingled roof have broken off under theweight of snow and only parts of thebuilding areleft standing.

Still intact and so finely balanced, the25-foot pine wheel stirs into motion atthe push of ahand. It must have groanedand creaked at work. An ingeniouslyplaced chamber for food was cooled bythe breeze as the water dropped behind.Power was transferred by a masterfullyengineered series of gears, arms, andbars to the huge grinding stone. Whenthat moved slowly, round and round,the whole forest must have echoed to therumble andshriek of ore being broken.Wolverton built themill almost single-handedly. He cut and dragged big pinesinto place on his own back, using ashoulder harness. The marks of his ax areon the stripped wood. Wood wasshapedand fitted to make the strong wheels,then bolted and hung in position. It

looks like the work of some giant.E. T. Wolverton, a Yankee, broughthis family to Utah in 1900. He was anengineer, versatile, capable anduntiring.He developed a ranch near Green River,built boats and operated them on theGreen andColorado Rivers, hauling man-ganese, copper, iron, deer hunters, fisher-men and tourists. He was a literatemanand wrote papers on his research intoLegends, Traditions, and Early Historyof the Henry Mountains. He knew thestories of the oldmine.Soon after coming into the region,Wolverton prospected in the mountains.He found the aftermath of thegold rushof 1890when a little boom town, EagleCity, flourished briefly. Only a few old-timers were left, trying to support them-selves with panning. There were claimsover on Straight Creek where he wantedto file his claims. He had to wait until1916 before they were clear. Then hebegan the tremendous task which was tooccupy him for the rest of his life; es-tablishing a mill, building roads, pros-

pecting, digging the ore, andgetting thegold to market. World War I made sup-plies, money and workers almost impos-sible to get, so he worked alone.He lived in a tiny cabin near themill.Today it is empty of all but a bedframe,a simple table, cupboard, and a littlefireplace. There he wrote in his diary onJuly 12, 1921: "Raining again this morn-ing, a still, quiet rain. Have only heardthunder once since daylight. Had lunchat 12 and then went up to the top of

Rico Hill taking samples from 500 feeteast of camp to the top of thehill."July 13. Rested well last night butam rather sore this morning. Clouds as-sembling again this morning. Have about50 samples to test. Some of them mustbe broken and onepart burned and thenpanned and the other part panned in itsnatural state. Have done a lot of pan-ning. Have prospected the hillside fromthe cabin to the top of Rico Hill. Thereis easily 2000 tons of ore on the hillside

which will pay to mill. This orewill runfrom $5.00 to several hundred per ton.It should average $15.00 and$25.00 ac-cording to my panning. I am tired to-night, this climbing at this altitude ishard on me. I have about 40# of samplesto pan in themorning." Thenext day heprospected, looking for the Manzanitaworkings, which he failed to locate." . . . on my way back I found an oldMexican mortar."Still alone, Wolverton was injured in

a fall from his horse. Friends fromHanksville coming to check on him,


21/44

found him very ill and took him out ofthe mountains to a hospital. A necessaryoperation was successful but he con-tracted pneumonia and died.

His claims are in other hands, the milldeteriorates more each year, and the "OldSpanish Mine" keeps its secret. There areno Indians left to claim that the curse-has worked once again. Through theyears a series of attempts to defy it havefailed.

One very colorful story begins in the1860s shortly after the Civil War. Asoldier-miner, working his way west,blundered into the "Unknown Moun-tains" and stumbled on the rich mine.After getting a few samples he was driv-en off minus horse and pack animals, hissupplies and tools. When he reached atown to the southwest and had the sam-ples tested, they found him a partner.With a local guide the two went backfor a second try. Making sure the guide-did not see the actual mine, the menloaded up several pack animals. Theguide buried his shovel and pick-ax neara tree and they started down the moun-tain, heading west through the desert toRabbit Valley. Thirst drove the miners,in spite of the guide's warnings, to drinktainted water. Both men became ill, thesoldier dying after they reached town andhis partner within the year. Much laterthe guide led a party back to the spot.He found the tools but no gold.

Wolverton's "old Mexican mortar" isa heavy, solid fact. It sits now amongsucculents and Indian artifacts in the

Does this "Mexican mortar"found near the Woverton Milland supposedly used to smashgold ore indicate the legendof the "Old Spanish Mine"is true?Hunt garden at Hanksville, Utah. It mea-sures 35 inches in length, 9 inches high,with a width from 12 to 17 inches. Adeep groove down the center holds thehand stone with finger holes. This typeof mortar was used to grind small samplesof very rich ore. Weighing over 100pounds it is not something the averageprospector would carry in his backpack.

Another solid fact is the finding oftwo piles of gold beside the skeleton ofa mule, when Fremont passed throughthe region on his last western expeditionin 1848. The actual route an early ex-pedition might have used can be pointedout from Coyote Benches, at the mouthof Straight Creek Canyon. With fieldglasses, pointed to the northeast, I couldmake out clearly the cut of Sunset Passin the Orange Cliffs.

In 1956 Lurt Knee led a party of usthrough that pass. We went on north,following the bench between the OrangeCliffs and the rim of Cataract Canyonon the Colorado River. We had to makeour own road for the last 20 miles totake our four-wheel-drive jeep as it wasthe first car ever to penetrate into Stand-ing Rock Basin. The next day we hikeddown a very old trail toward the bigriver. An emerald-green meadow in acurve of canyon walls is marked onUSGS maps as "Spanish Bottoms." Downthe talus slope along the trail we founda beautiful set of stone steps. Not on themap because they have been "lost" sev-eral times, they are known to old-timersas "The Spanish Steps," sign posts alongthe earliest trade route from Sante Fe,New Mexico to Los Angeles, California.No one knows how long the steps havebeen there. They may well have carriedgold to Spain from the old mine onStraight Creek.

Perhaps science will someday developa recording instrument sensitive enoughto give back words heard by rocks andwalls. Then the Wolverton Mill willspeak with the voice of its builder to tellof his great dream and perchance the oldMexican mortar will divulge at last thesecret of the Spanish gold.

JEWELRY CRAFTS CATAIOG

F R E E !BIGGEST

Lapidary rockhounding''jewelry making... add up toa fascinating creative art!SEND FOR FREE CATAIOG

World's largest selec tion- over 10.000 Ioffered...imports from all parts of the world.STONESJEWEIIY MATEIIAL5- MOUNTINGS

BOOKS-CKAFT TOOLS - MACHINEHY SUPPLIES ETCG R I E G E R ' S , INC.Depl 52 -1633 E. Walnut Pasadena, Coli

M E T A L L O C A T O R S

* 2 7 5 O > $ 1 4 9" E L D O R A D O " /

SE E YOUR DEALEROR WRITE FOR

FREE LITERATURE

R O T H I N D U S T R I E S D O P . . 7 OWorldway Box 90993Los Angeles, Calif. 90009

OVER FABULOUS LAKE POWELLTHE

MOST BEAUTIFUL LAKEIN THE WORLD

ALSO RAINBOW BRIDGE ESCALANTE RIVER ARCHES MONUMENT VALLEY GRAND CANYON CANYONLANDS

Numerous other FabulousAttractions

COMBINATION TOURS BY AIRPLANE,BOAT, JEEP AND HORSEBACK

Charter Flights to AnywhereP A G E A V I A T I O N , I N C .

Write P.O. Box 1385Phone (602) 645-2494PAGE, ARIZONA, 86040


22/44

S TRADDLING THE Utah-Arizona bor-der is the 96,000-acre MonumentValley Navajo Tribal Park. A few milesfrom the entrance to the park is a tradingpost and a legendary figure who callshimself "The Old Indian Trader" livesthere. That man is Harry Goulding.

It was on his invitation that my wife,Joy, and I spent five days in MonumentValley, and our lives will never be thesame. Sentimentalists w e are, lovers ofthe peace, serenity and beauty of thedesert we are, preservation-minded forour scaled, furred and feathery friendswe are, cognizant of the devastating situa-tion of the Navajo Indian we are, buthow inadequate we really felt after thatvisit.

Although Harry Goulding has bowedto modern-day progress, a "necessaryevil" to him, the atmosphere at the Trad-ing Post and Lodge is evidence that herefuses to give in completely. Th e ac-commodations provided are beautiful,spacious and air-conditioned, but whenyou look out over the veranada at thesprawling valley floor, the present is allbut forgotten and you find yourself in his22

Home of theproud Navajo

Indians,MonumentValley is a

land of manymoods and

changingcolors,

accentuatedby the

escarpmentsand mesas.

AH photos bythe author.

world of unbelievable beauty and peace.The old dinner bell still rings to call hisfamily of guests to the large communitydining hall as it has through the many,many years and the ever-present hospi-tality lingers as Harry, his wife, Mike,and managers Maurice and RosemaryKnee dine and chat with their guests.I think Harry knew I wanted to for-mulate my own opinions of both thevalley and him. He said very little, buthe had that knowing look in his eyes.

Having lived with the Indians for so

many years, he has adopted many of theirphilosophies and ways, one of which isto size up a man very slowly and veryquietly. It occurred to me later that thisis what he wanted to do with me because,despite the fact that the trading post hasmany four-wheel drive vehicles, with air-conditioning, that journey out each daywith the guests who wish to tour Monu-ment Valley off the beaten path, he sug-gested that he take us out alone in hisown vehicle, a little white Jeepster thathe lovingly called B/nrito. Although no


23/44

Mission^ ^ ^ J by Bill Kny vett

other person alive knows the valley asdoes Harry, being on the desert for solong had produced a built-in sense ofcaution and our little burrito was fitted Two Navajoout with enough gear and supplies for sisters andus to survive indefinitely! their dog restAs we drove toward the ranger station while herdingHarry explained how the Navajo tribe sheep at thehad set up their own commission to con- foot of thetrol and police their own tribal park, formationrather than relinquish it to federal con- known astrol. It is a credit to the Navajos that no "The Threepark or monument, federal or state is Sisters."


24/44

Harry G oulding and his wife, Mike, w ere among the first white settlers in Mon u-ment Valley where they established a trading post. They speak fluent Navajo and

have been long-time champions of the Indians. Photo by Joseph Muench.less littered than Monument Valley.

Down on the valley floor Harry point-ed out the various beautiful colored spiresand monuments that were, indeed, awe-inspiring . Occasionally he would stopand point to some view or object and wesoon learned that he was about to tell usof some memorable happening of thepast. Perhaps it would be an old aban-doned hogan where a cherished friendhad lived and died, or a certain cave orancient ruin he and Mike had first dis-covered. Sometimes he would just stopand silently gaze at some far off viewand we knew he was recalling his ownprivate moments of the past.The first day was overcast and the truebrilliance of the monoliths was lost as wetook a very circuitous route to SurpriseCanyon. It was here, hidden from fromview until the very last moment, and only

24

after a steep hike, we saw the first of themany natural arches that are part of thebeauty of the land.As the day passed and Harry took usdeeper and deeper into his beloved valley,our love for this beautiful creation ofNature grew, as did our love and respect

for Mr. Goulding. How patiently he ex-plained the history, the trials of establish-ing the trading post and of his desire topreserve the valley for his life-longfriends, the Navajos. It is one thing toview the valley from afar, or from photo-grap hs. It is another feeling to be inamong the monuments. You not onlysee them, you become a part of them.You readily understand why the Navajoswould pray to a certain monument duringillness, for wasn't that monument in-habited by a good spirit, and are not thespirits there today?

Gazing into the infinite horizon of thevalley, we wondered what the thoughtsmust have been when Harry, as a youngwrangler with a few days off after a longtrail ride, topped the Comb Reef andlooked down on the then unknown valleyfor the first time. So impressed with thebeauty and formations was he that rightthen his life changed. He returned withhis bride, pitched a tent at the base ofa sandstone cliff and discovered his mis-sion in life. Establishing the trading postand dealing with the Indians opened hiseyes to the deplorable conditions underwhich the Navajos eked out an existence.His dedication to the advancement physi-cally, socially and culturally of the Indianhas in itself been a monumental one.

It was on land that he provided thatthe first hospital in Monument Valleywas erected in 1950 by the Seventh-dayAdventist Church. They brought modernmedical science to a much-needed areaand with the creation of an air-strip atGo ulding 's, injured and ill Indians canbe swiftly transported or transferred.

It was Harry's determined faith in thevalley and its people that brought themovie cameras of Hollywood during the30's with the filming of "Stagecoach."This opened the door to the employmentof many Navajos and brought economicstability for many an "extra". The moviesalso exposed the entire country to thebeauty of the valley and before long heand Mike were in the tour business.


25/44

Tour vehicles (right) fromGoulding's Lodge wind through

picturesque Monum ent Valley.Prehistoric Indians lived in

Monument Valley (below) butdisappeared before present day

Navajo Indians arrived.With the construction of modern roads

came more people and the accommoda-tions enlarged, al though the originaltrading post is still doing business asin the days of old.

One of the memorable trips which hetook us on included a section of the parkcalled Mystery Valley. W e left the pavedroad and were simply gobbled up by thesilence and peacefulness as we wound ourway up canyons investigating old cliffdwellings and petroglyphs. In one areahe pointed out where apparently twodifferent peoples had lived as was evi-denced by two very different styles ofworkmanship and materials used. At thescene of another he became livid upondiscovering that since his last trip vandalshad been tearing apart the walls of ahome of the ancient ones, mute evidencethat even in desolate places such as thisdesecraters are commiting their heinousacts. Yet at another point we all kneltin the red dirt as he showed us whereants in making their subterranean quar-ters had brought to the surface smallfragments of shell beads dating back to600-1200 A.D.

.'"f&&'''4*&*$i&': *^I ' u - - - / ^

W e noted the pride in his voice whenhe pointed out that Navajos never campat a water hole. Their way is to locate adistance away to allow the birds and ani-mals access to the life-giving fluid.

On the return trip Harry told us howin all his years of trading with theNavajos the most satisfying deal he evermade was fo r the Navajos! He explainedhow he and Mike had traded 46 years ofwork, since the two of them first learnedthe language they speak so fluently backin 1924, and donated the trading post toKnox College of Galesburg, Illinois,with the proviso that all profits be usedfor scholarships for their beloved brown-eyed friends.

Under the college's management thetrading post will thusly carry on Harry'smission for years and years to come, everup-grading and advancing the nativeAmerican Indian and as Harry says "insome small way repay his debt to them."

In a valley where monuments are manyand are measured in hundreds of feet,none stands so tal l as Harry Goulding,for truly he is a human monument for thebrotherhood of me n! HI

rJL Worthy CauseIn the few days spent with Mr.

Goulding we discussed many waysin which his mission can be helpedby people everywhere. I feel thatas DESERT Magazine readers weparticularly should feel the need tohelp a member of our desert family.Let 's go through our wardrobesand locate a few articles of clothingor anything that might be useful tothese people, and put them aside,when next you go marketing pickup an extra item and put it aside.Package it up securely and mail itto :Monument Valley Mission Hospital

Monum ent Val ley , Utah 84536If you're planning a vacation in anypart of northern Arizona or south-ern Utah, take it with you anddeliver it in person. You'll be gladyou did. J


26/44

UTAH'iby Ronald Shofner

WHEN i was a boy of 12, my familytook a vacation to the paintedland of southern Utah and northern Ari-2ona. Having lived in California's cen-tral valley all my life, my young imagina-tion was thoroughly enchanted by thisfairytale landscape of sculptured cliffs,crimson hills, and hidden canyons.

I recall vividly when we were on Sun-set Point at the rim of Bryce Canyonlistening to a park ranger talk about thewonders of the fantastically eroded, pinkamphitheatre below us. He concluded histalk with a sweeping gesture of his armtoward the hazy country stretching as faras the eye could see. He said we werestanding on the edge of civilization, andwhat we were viewing was largely wild-erness, still to be searched for other won-ders like Bryce Canyon. At that momentI developed a curiosity that has taken meback again and again.

Some six years later, a group of localcitizens raised enough money to build aroad that pushed into the heart of thisarea. This road, known as the Cotton-wood Cutoff, in addition to shortening


27/44

the distance from Bryce Canyon to LakePowell by about 70 miles, traverses someof the West's most unusual and variedcountry.The first step begins at the turnoff toBryce Canyon from Utah State 12. Here,follow State 54 eastward and south tothe quiet Mormon village of Tropic,which was settled in 1891. Called Tropic

because of the contrast in weather toBryce Canyon, the canyon is carved intothe Paunsaugunt Plateau directly abovethe town. In addition to seeing the un-usual views of Bryce Canyon from be-low, you can visit the reconstructed homeof Ebenezer Bryce for whom the canyonwas named. Ellis LaFevre, an historically

minded citizen, has created a small mu-seum of the local area in the Bryce home. On display are pioneer relics and Indianartifacts. It is on the main road as youleave the other side of town.The real jumping off place is fivemiles later at the redrock hamlet of Can-nonville. It was named after George Q.Cannon, a Mormon leader at the time ofsettlement in 1876. This town of 150people is the last chance for gas and sup-plies. There are no services for the next70 miles. Two and one-half miles to thesouth of town, at the Kane County line,the paved road ends and the dirt road be-gins.If stormy weather appears likely, it is

not wise to take this road as dry washecan become raging torrents. Whether ilooks stormy or not, local inquiry as toroad conditions should always be made.About a mile after the pavement endthere is a fork in the road. The left-handroad is the Cottonwood Cutoff whichfords the Paria River a few hundredyards from the fork. The right forkeventually meets the Johnson Canyonroad 33 miles later. About eight miles upthis fork is Bull Valley Gorge whichmakes an interesting side trip.

The gorge is cut into Navajo Sandstone and is tremendously deep and nar-row, similar to the well-known ZionNarrows.Descent into the canyon involves ahike of about one mile upstream, startingto the right after crossing the bridgeHere the canyon broadens into a valley

Bryce Canyon (opposite page) is on e of Utah's many colorful national and stateparks. In Butler Va lley, Grosven or Arch (ab ove) is 152 feet high. It was formed

of Winsor sandstone during the age of the dinosaurs.

Lowest Photo Prints PriceHighest Quality8

1212

KODACOLOR FILMDEVELOPED & PRINTEDJumbo Prints (rectangular] $1.7 8Jum bo Prints (square) $2 .18Jumbo Prints andNew Roll of Kodacolor except 126 $2.9 81 2 Jum bo Prints andNew Roll of Kodacolor f i lm , 126 $3.07Kodacolor Neg reprints (square! $ .14Al l pr ices comparably low.Price sheets and envelopes

ava i l ab le .No gimmicksNo l ies47 years of cont inuousservice guarantees yourqua l i t y .MARKET BASKET PHOTO CO.P. O. Box 370, Yuma, Arizona 85364 orP. O. Box 2830, San Diego, Calif. 92112W H E N I N T H E G O LD C O U N T R Y Y O U N E ED T H IS

f O L DD r e d g eComplete $165-*Terms

Modell500(lY, inchl

tCC 8AKCK1207 El C amino R eal_S anta C lara, C alif. _


28/44

Make YourOutingsMore FunM E T AL D E T E C T O R S D etect ron Rayscope

Ge t the Best .Top Guarantee . .Easy to OperatefindVjOlQOld CoinsTreasures

Stop By And See Our . . .Western Art i facts, Indian Collect ion, JewelryDisplay, Lapidary Equipment, Tumblers, GoldFans, Dry Washers, Books on Treasures andLoct Mines . and other items of fun orthe ent ire family. For in format ion |ust wri teto or cal l :

COMPTONROCK SHOP

1405 South Long Beach Blvd.P h . 6 3 2 - 9 0 9 6 Compton, Cal i f . 90221

making entry easy. Some climbing is in-volved in negotia t ing the small water-falls in theusually drystream bed. I havehiked about tw o miles downstream fromthe br idge. Th e gorge is so nar row inplaces it seems like you're in a cave. Iwould recommend this hike only to theadventurous and hardy. If you enter thegorge, keep an eye out for rain condi-tions as a flash flood here could be dis-astrous.

About a mile before returning to theCottonwood Cutoff begins the descentof a hill climbed on theway to thegorge.Her e at the top of t he hil l , it is worth-while to walk about 100 yards to thenor thern edge. You will see a splendidwide-angle view of the Paria River Val-ley with the 10,500 foot Table CliffsPlateau dominating the hor izon.

Once back on the Cottonwood roadand after an easy ford of the Paria River(which normally is the size of a creek)the road proceeds overland through avariety of colorful land. Four and a halfmiles later the short side road to Koda-chrome Flats turns to the left. Onceknown as Thorny Pas ture to the rugged

A n g e l A r c his only one highlight ofyourC anyonlands tour w ith Kent FrostThe Frosts combine years ofguiding know -how w ith modernvehicles andknow ledgeofthe area.Tours from one day totw o we e k s areavailable.To receive the Frost's colorbrochure, fill out and returnthe coupon below .

C A N Y O N L A N D S T O U R SKE N T FR O S T -M ON T IC E L L O , U T AH 8 4 5 3 5

28

cattlemen who have ranged here sincethe turn of the century, this area is oneof mystery and beauty. Nature's f inelycarved rock forms are hewn out of bril-liant red Entrada sandtsone. There aresmall pockets and flats between themwhich can be roamed freely. The mys-tery, which has yet to receive an ade-quate explanat ion, is how the numeroustall, gray, totempole-like spires sprinkledliberally throughout the Flats came intobeing. One theory is they are "ancientpetr if ied geyser holes." While devisingyour own theories andenjoying the beau-ty, there are a few picnic tables undershady junipers and pinons where youcan relax.

Back out on the main road and 10miles further is the one-mile side road toGrosvenor Arch. Sculptured out of oneof the many cream-colored rampartsforming Butler Valley, the 152-foot-highdouble arch is one of th e highlights ofthe tr ip. The arch, formed in W i n s o rsandstone deposited in the age of dino-saurs, is capped by a resistant layer ofm a uv e- co lo re d D a k o t a s an d st on e -c on -glomerate. Petr if ied wood can be foundin this stratum. The arch was named afterthe president of the National GeographicSociety when one of their exploring par-ties "discovered" it for the outside worldin the 40s. It hadbeen known for yearsbefore by the cattlemen as Butler ValleyArch. Regardless of what it is called, thearch is one of the finest works of naturein the southwest.

It's possible to ascend the span andactually stand on the summit . The topma y be approached from either side.Th elef t approach follows up a gulley whichcan be seen after rounding th e left abut-m ent . Th e easier route starts up a fewhundred yards to the r ight. After ascend-in g a fair ly gentle slope to the top of thebuttress, a walk to the western edge willbr ing the arch in view. A little maneu-vering with courage and carefulness willmake the summit . I must emphasizecarefulness. When you're up there, it'sa long, long way d o w n !

As the road leaves Butler Valley itmakes a small descent into one of themost unusual canyons in the west, Cot-tonwood Canyon. As the name implies,the canyon is lined with the spreadingshade of the restful cottonwood tree.Springs and campsites are plentiful inthis 15-mile section. Th e canyon paral-


29/44

lels what geologists call the East KaibabMonocline, known on maps as the Cox-comb.

Coxcomb is an apt description of theupturned, exposed strata piercing the skyfor the length of the canyon. The westwall is massive; white Navajo sandstonesliced here and there by knife-like can-yons incised by small tributaries of Cot-tonwood Creek. In places the Navajosandstone has a frosting of brilliant ma-roon Carmel sandstone which is saturat-ed with iron oxide. This is the same for-mation that caps the temples in ZionCanyon causing the walls to be streakedblood-red.

About 10 miles before the road'sjunction with Highway 89, the PariaRiver is met again. The kaleidoscope ofcolors and rock forms in CottonwoodCanyon is invaded here by the river. Itenters from the west through a gatewaycarved into the Coxcomb. Some mapsshow the Cottonwood Cutoff and theParia ghost town road joining throughthis canyon. It is only passable by 4-wheel-drive vehicles.

Parking where the road meets the

Paria and walking one mile upstreamthrough the canyon will reveal an ex-ceptional colorful valley. It is entirelysur rounded by the many-banded Chinleformation, the same geological formationof the Painted Desert. Petr if ied wood de-posits of gem quality once abounded herebut have been nearly depleted by collect-ors.

Do not confuse the Paria townsite, onthe northeast side of the river, with amovie set used for "Sergeant's Three" onthe south side of the r iver. Paria (Piuteword for 'elk' ) was a Mo rmon outpostunder the frontiersman and missionaryJacob Hamblin in 1867 and was settled in1872. Subsequent f loods wiped out thislittle agricultural community. Today onlya few, small, unoccupied cabins remain.Paria may be approached also from thesouth by a f ive mile dir t road whichturns off 33 miles east of Kanab onHighway 89.

After passing through the Coxcomb,a pleasant sojourn in Paria country ends.The road, inspired and built by the citi-zens below Bryce Canyon, skirts the talus-covered bases of the last mesas before the

open country on the way to Lake Powell.A few miles later the Cottonwood Cutoffmeets the pavement of Highway 89, 25miles from Lake Powell.

This pavement marks the end of anadventure through spectacular country. Ifit had not been for far-sighted citizens,it would still be known only to lonelycowpunchersas it was when I stood onthe rim of Bryce Canyon some years ago.DD O N H O E L ' S C a b i n s"In the Hea rt ofOak Creek Canyon"

on 89A 19 miles south of Flagstaff10 miles north of Sedona

YEAR ROUND SEASONLicenses, Fishing, H unting, H orses, H iking,S w imming, Photography, G roceries, Tackle

Write for rates: DON HOEL'S CABINS,Oak Creek Star Route, Flagstaff Ariz. 86001

Telephone (602) 282-3560

ZIP CODE YOUR MAIL

N orthw est TimberedACRE AGES as low as$950 Total Price5 - 10 20 - 40 - ACRES

For people w ho love th e landA tractof Recreation Land fo r YOUR O w n !In Northern Idaho, Northeastern Wash-ington, and Western Montana. In theheart of lakes and big game country. Allcovered with growing timber. Access, Titleinsurance with each tract. This is selectland with natural beauty, recreationaland investment values. We have tracts ofmany types and sizes from which tochoose, including beautiful NorthwestWaterfront property. Your inspection wel-

P.O. Box 106, Opportunity StationSpok ane, Washington 99214

29


30/44

A r c h e so fW h i t eM e s aby Jack Pepper

ALTHOUGH HE spoke English, our. Navajo Indian guide used his na-tive language to give directions as weheaded for a natural arch formation sev-eral miles away. Even at that distance,we could see the arch, silhouetted againstthe blue Arizona sky, was of tremendoussize.

In our four-wheel-drive vehicle, wehad left any semblance of a road severalmiles back and were slowly drivingthrough a valley criss-crossed by deepand impassable ravines. Since there wereno trails, our route was like that of anant trying to get back to his hill after a

child had streaked his fingers throughhis sandy path.

Our expedition had been organizedthe previous day by Bill Greene and Har-ry Goulding. Bill was born and raised inthe area and his father, Art Greene, andHarry Gouldings are cousins who pio-neered the white settlement of Navajo-land. Semi-retired, Harry now devotesmost of his time to helping the NavajoIndians and exploring the back country,looking for new arches and landmarks.Since Bill runs guided four-wheel-drive tours from Wahweap Lodge and isconstantly looking for new places to takehis guests, Harry had suggested we ex-plore the White Mesa area south of Page,Arizona.Although he knows the MonumentValley area as well as the Navajos, HarryGoulding was not too familiar with theWhite Mesa area, so he arranged for usto pick up an Indian guide en route. Theguide, Jim Begay, had returned to thereservation after serving in the armedforces during World War II and livingin California. However, Jim had notbeen in the White Mesa ar

197005 desertmagazine 1970 may

Documents