1890-1973

Noel LawsFashion 105

10.20.08

Sign of The Times

1892 – Vogue introduced in NY 1912 – Coco Chanel opens millinery shop 1914 – Archduke Franz Ferdinand and wife assassinated, fueling WWI 1918 – Armistice signed in France, WWI ends 1920 – 19th Amendment ratified, American women can vote 1924 – First winter Olympics, Chamonix, France 1929 – NY Stock Market crashes, Great Depression 1932 – Amelia Earhart flies across Atlantic

Sign of The Times

1933 – Hitler becomes Chancellor of Germany 1939 – WWII begins 1940 – Rationed textiles begin 1941 – Japan bombs Pearl Harbor 1944 – Women can vote in France 1945 – Germany & Japan surrender WWII ends 1949 – Rationed textiles end 1951 – CBS broadcasts in color for first time

Sign of the Times

1952 – King George VI dies, daughter Elizabeth becomes Queen Elizabeth II 1956 – Elvis’ “Heart Break Hotel” reaches #1 on Int’l charts 1957 – Soviet Union launches Sputnik 1959 – Barbie was introduced 1973 – Roe vs. Wade overturned giving women rights to abortion

First collection, 1927, bow-knot sweater Pioneer for color and textile production First to use shoulder pads, “shocking pink” (hot pink), animal prints, zippers match fabric Graced Time Magazine, 1934, as one of the “arbiters of the ultra-modern haute couture” Launched many perfumes: Soucis, Salut, Schiap, Sleeping, Shocking, Snuff, Le Roy Soleil

Significance to Fashion

Elsa interpreted Dali’s “Anthropomorphic Cabinet” and “Lobster Telephone” Dali collaborated on “Shoe Hat”, “Torn Animal Flesh Dress”, “Padded Skeleton Dress”, and Le Roy Soleil perfume Elsa interpreted Jean Cocteau’s line drawings Coordinating Council of French Relief Societies: concerts, lectures, exhibitions Marcel Duchamp: “First Papers of Surrealism” at Philadelphia Museum of Art Man Ray photography

Collaboration’s

Six Famous Collections

Circus: Summer 1938 Pagan: Fall 1938 Zodiac: Winter 1938-1939 Modern Comedy: Spring 1939 Return of the Bustle: Summer 1939 Music & Air: Fall 1939

Mythology, Astronomy, Ugliness, Surrealism, Uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli, WWI & WWII, Napoleon, Barnum and Bailey, Venus, Victorian women, 18th Century Italian commedia

Famous people who inspired her: Salvador Dali – Surrealist Artist Marcel Duchamp – Surrealist Artist Man Ray – Surrealist Artist Jean Cocteau – Surrealist Artist Daisy Fellowes – Paris Fashion Icon Paul Poiret – Mentor in her early years Mae West – Actress Zsa Zsa Gabor – Actress Katherine Hepburn Marlene Dietrich Myrna Loy

Influences & Inspiration

Last Words

“In difficult times fashion is always outrageous.”

References

Baudot, Francois. Universe of Fashion: Elsa Schiaparelli. Universe Publishing, 1997

Blum, Dilys E. Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli. Philadelphia Museum of Art, 2003

Thurman, Judith. “Mother of Invention In Fashion.” The New Yorker October 27, 2003: Vol. 79, Iss 32; pg. 058. ProQuest. San Diego Mesa College Library. 10.12.2008 http://proquest.umi.com.libraryaccess.sdmesa.edu

“Elsa Schiaparelli Quotes.” Think Exist. 10.06.08 http://en.thinkexist.com//quotes/elsa_schiaparelli

“Elsa Schiaparelli Collection.” Philadelphia Museum of Art. Philadelphia Museum of Art Collections. 09.25.08 http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/results.html?searchTxt=elsa+schiaparelli&bSuggest=1&searchNameID=&searchClassID=&searchOrigin=&keySearch=+Search+&page=1

“Elsa Schiaparelli Images.” Google. Webmaster. 10.06.08 http://images.google.com/imghp?hl=en&tab=wi