12. session defect classification and rating areas- garments

Garment Zone –Wise Defect Classification

ITC Quality Manual March ‘99

ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor DefectsWoven Shirts

Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Dirt Spot Major Major2. Shaded Parts Major Major3. Shading between Garments Major Major4. Holes of any Size repaired or not Major MajorSewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Run off Stitches upto 1/8” Major Minor2. Run off Stitches over 1/8” Major Major3. One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major Major4. More than One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Major Major5. Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/16” Major Minor6. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Minor7. Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major8. Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch Major Major9. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major10. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major11. Uneven Front Placket >1/8” at Bottom Major -12. Incorrect Placket Width 1/8” or Less Major Minor13. Uneven High-Low Pockets [2 Shirt Pocket] of Pocket Flaps more than 1/4” in relation to each other Major Major14. Mismatch Pockets Plaid Match over 1/8” Major15. Uneven Collar Points over 1/8” Major16. Collar Overlap when Buttoned Major17. Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major18. Buttonholes Non reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major19. Incorrect Buttons Major Major20. Missing Buttons Major Major21. Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8” Tolerance Major


22. Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down Major Major23. Buttons Not Securely Sewn Major Major24. Sewn In Pleats on Outside Major Major25. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats Major Major26. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe upto 1/8” Major Minor27. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe over 1/8” Major Major28. Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major29. Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted Major Major30. Bubble Formation at Collars Due to Improper Fusing of Interlining Major Major31. Needle Chews Upto One per inch Major Major32. Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major Major33. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical CriticalPressing [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Permanent Crease Major Major2. Pressing Not as Specified Major Major3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major MajorCleanliness [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Attached Sewing Threads upto 1/4” Major Minor2. Attached Sewing Threads over 1/4” Major Major3. Attached Threads Over 1/2” Inside Garment Major Major4. Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major5. Stain, Soil under 1/8” Major Minor6. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major7. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots Major Major8. Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major9. Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major MajorPacking/Finishing DefectsDefects1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major


2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major4. Hangtags Missing Major Major5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major


ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor DefectsWoven Bottoms

Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Dirt Spot Major Major2. Shaded Parts Major Major3. Shading between Garments Major Major4. Holes of any Size repaired or not Major MajorSewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Run off Stitches upto 1/8” on Outside Major Minor2. Run off Stitches over 1/8” Major Major3. Run off Stitches < or = 1/4” on Inside Minor Minor4. Run off Stitches > 1/4” on Inside Major Major5. One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major Major6. More than One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Major Major7. One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Minor Minor8. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major9. Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/8” Major Minor10. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Minor11. Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major12. Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch Major Major13. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major15. High/Low pocket Placement > + or - 1/8” Major Major16. Lips or Creases on Front Pocket Major17. Exposed White Pocket Bag Major18. Wavy or Malfunctioning Zipper Major19. Uneven Yoke Seam [feed back Seam] < or = 1/4” Minor20. Uneven Yoke Seam [feed back Seam] > 1/4” Major


21. Uneven Yoke Seam [Safety Stitch back Seam] < or = 1/8” Minor22. Uneven Yoke Seam [Safety Stitch back Seam] > 1/8” Major23. Misaligned Fell seams over width of Topstitch Major Major24. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats Major Major25. Sewn in Pleat Inside< or = 1/4” Minor26. Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4” Major Major27. Uneven or Misplaced Darts over 1/8” Major28. Waistband Width at ends [Front or Back] + or - 1/4” Major29. Alignment of Waistband over 1/8” Major Major30. Uneven Belt Loop Placement over 1/4” Major31. Belt Loop Missing or Slanting more than 1/8” Major32. Uneven hem Width > + or - 1/8” each side Major33. Uneven Hem Front to Back > 1/4” Major34. Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major Major35. Buttonholes with Irreparable or Broken Threads Major Major36. Misplaced Button, Buttonhole or Hook and Eye over 1/8” Major Major37. Missing Button or Rivet Major Major38. Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems Major Major39. Improper lining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major40. Interlining or Garment Part Twisted Major Major41. Crows Feet Major Major42. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical CriticalPressing [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Permanent Crease Major Major2. Poor Press Major Minor3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major MajorCleanliness [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. One or more Sewing threads < or = ¼” on Outside Minor Minor2. One or more Sewing threads > or = ¼” on Outside Major Major3. Thread Cluster on Inside Major Major4. More than Four Threads > ½” or One or More Threads >1” on Inside Major Major


5. Stain, Soil under 1/8” TO DO Major Minor6. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major7. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots Major Major8. Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major9. Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major MajorPacking/Finishing DefectsDefects1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major4. Hangtags Missing Major Major5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major


ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Visual DefectsKnit Tops

Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major2. Shaded Parts Major Major3. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major4. Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn Major Major5. Not Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn Major Minor6. Poor Matching of Colour or Print Patterns Major Major7. Texture Change Major Major8. Shading Between Garments Major MajorFabric (Defect by Zone)Defect Zone A Zone B1. Slubs ad Misweaves upto 1/8” Major Minor2. Holes of any Size Repaired or not Major Major3. Standard weight exceeding Tolerance Major4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch, End Down, Bent Needle, Needle Line Major Major5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks, Blotches, Print out of Register Major Major6. Bow or Bias fabric over 1” side to side Major MajorSewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Run off Stitches upto 1/8” Major Minor2. Run off Stitches over 1/8” Major Major3. One or More Skip Stitch on any stitch type Major Major4. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major5. Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/8” Major Minor6. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Minor7. Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major8. Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch Major Major9. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major


10. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major11. Misaligned front back over 1/8” Major Major12. Incorrect Placket width upto 1/8” Major Major13. Incorrect Placket width over 1/8” Major Major14. Mismatch Pockets, 4-way plaid match over 1/8” Major Major15. Uneven collar points over 1/8” Major16. Collar Overlap when Buttoned Major17. Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major18. Buttonholes Non-reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major19. Incorrect Buttons Major Major20. Missing Buttons Major Major21. Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8” Tolerance Major22. Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down Major Major23. Buttons Not Securely Sewn Major Major24. Sewn In Pleats on Outside Major Major25. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats Major Major26. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe upto 1/8” Major Minor27. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe over 1/8” Major Major28. Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major29. Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted Major Major30. Crows feet Major Major31. Needle Chews Upto One per inch Major Major32. Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major Major33. Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems Major Major34. Incorrect or missing Bartack Major Major35. Uneven hem > ½” each side Major Major36. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical CriticalPressing [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Permanent Crease Major Major2. Poor Press Major Minor3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major MajorCleanliness [Defect by Zone]


Defect Zone A Zone B1. Attached threads upto ¼” Major Minor2. Attached threads over ¼” Major Major3. Attached threads over ½” inside of garment Major Major4. Sewn in waste or thread on outside Major Major5. Stain, Soil under 1/8” Major Minor6. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major7. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots over ¼” Major Major8. Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major9. Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major Major12. Nap up/down, shaded parts Major Major13. Pile direction not as specified Major MajorPacking/Finishing DefectsDefects1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major4. Hangtags Missing Major Major5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major


ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor DefectsSweaters

Appearance and Colour [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Uneven dye,Dirt Spot Major Major2. Dye Misprint, Dye Smear Major Major3. Shaded Parts Major Major4. Poor match of colour Major Major5. Light Soil, Foreign Yarn, Visible Oil Stains Major Major6. Texture Changed Major Major7. Obvious Foreign or Coloured yarn Major Major8. Not obvious Foreign or Coloured Yarn Major Major9. Shading Between Garments Major MajorKnitting Components [Defect By Zone]1. Slubs and Misweaves Major Major2. Slubs larger than Loop Major Major3. Barre, bent Needle Slubs upto size of loop Major Major4. Hole, Dropped Stitch Not Repaired Major Major5. Slightly Improper Repair Major Minor6. Any Pattern Error Major Major7. Biased Pattern ½” Side to Side Major MajorLinking, Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major Major2. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major3. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major4. Uneven Front Placket >1/8” at Bottom Major -5. Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major6. Buttonholes Non-reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major7. Incorrect Buttons Major Major8. Missing Buttons Major Major


9. Buttons Not Securely Sewn Major Major10. Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major Major11. Needle Perforation Major Major12. Misaligned inserts, Pockets, Gussets over 1/8” Major Major13. Loose elastic Tension at bottom Major Major14. Buttonholes with broken stitches Major Major15. Misplaced Button over ¼” Major Major16. Mismatch Stripes Sideseam upto ¼” (Plackets over ¼”) Major Major17. Standard weight per garment out of tolerance Major18. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical CriticalPressing [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Permanent Crease Major Major2. Pressing Not as Specified Major Major3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major MajorCleanliness [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Attached linking threads over ¼” Major Major2. Attached threads over 2” inside of garment Major3. Knot yarn ends upto ¼” Major Minor4. Knot yarn ends over ¼” Major Major5. Pull Loop snags Major Minor6. Stain, Soil under 1/8” Major Major7. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major8. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots Major Major9. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major10. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major Major11. Pattern and garment asymmetric not more than 1” Major Major12. Shape not as specified Major MajorPacking/Finishing DefectsDefects1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major


3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major4. Hangtags Missing Major Major5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major


ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Visual DefectsWoven and Knit Jackets

Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major Major2. Shaded Parts Major Major3. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major4. Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn Major Major5. Not Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn Major Minor6. Poor Matching of Colour or Print Patterns Major Major7. Texture Change Major Major8. Shading Between Garments Major MajorFabric (Defect by Zone)Defect Zone A Zone B1. Slubs ad Misweaves upto 1/8”, Clearly contrasted dye smear Major Minor2. Slubs and Misweaves over ¼” Major Major3. Holes of any size, repaired or not, needle cut, tear Major Major4. Fabric not as specified Major Major5. Barre, Bent Needle Slubs upto size of Loop Major Minor6. Improper Repairs Major Minor7. Any Pattern Errors Major MajorSewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Run off Stitches upto 1/8” Major Minor2. Run off Stitches over 1/8” Major Major3. One or More Skip Stitch on any stitch type Major Major4. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major5. Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/8” Major Minor6. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Minor7. Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major


8. Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch Major Major9. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major10. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major11. Misaligned Front/Back over 1/8” Major Major12. Incorrect Placket Width upto 1/8” Major Major13. Incorrect Placket Width over 1/8” Major Major14. Mismatch Pockets, 4-way plaid match over 1/16” Major Major15. Uneven collar points over 1/8” Major16. Collar Overlap when Buttoned Major17. Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major18. Buttonholes Non reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major19. Incorrect Buttons Major Major20. Missing Buttons Major Major21. Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8” Tolerance Major22. Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down Major Major23. Buttons Not Securely Sewn Major Major24. Sewn In Pleats on Outside Major Major25. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats Major Major26. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe upto 1/8” Major Minor27. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe over 1/8” Major Major28. Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major29. Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted Major Major30. Needle Chews Upto One per inch Major Major31. Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major Major32. Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems Major Major33. Incorrect or missing bartack Major Major34. Malfunctioning, Wavy or Incorrect Zipper Major Major35. Misplaced Buttonhole or Hook and Eye over 1/8” Major Major36. Misplaced Button over 1/8” or Missing Button Major Major37. Misplaced Rivet over 1/8” or Missing Rivet Major Major38. Crow’s Feet Major Major39. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical


Pressing [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Permanent Crease Major Major2. Poor Press Major Minor3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major MajorCleanliness [Defect by Zone]Defect Zone A Zone B1. Attached threads upto ¼” Major Minor2. Attached threads over ¼” Major Major3. Attached threads over ½” inside of garment Major Major4. Sewn in waste or thread on outside Major Major5. Stain, Soil under 1/8” Major Minor6. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major7. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots over ¼” Major Major8. Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major9. Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major Major12. Nap up/down, shaded parts Major Major13. Pile direction not as specified Major MajorPacking/Finishing DefectsDefects1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major4. Hangtags Missing Major Major5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major


12. session defect classification and rating areas- garments

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