12 JULY 2018 VOL. 5

E.O.P.C.

Essential oils , Perfumery & Cosmetics

OFFICIAL NEWSLETTER FOR BNAEOPC MEMBERS

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Content:

A French Consortium for Essential Oils in Aromatherapy .................................................................. 3

Biocidal Products Committee concludes on a Union authorisation for disinfectants .................. 3

CANADIAN SENATE PASSES BILL ON COSMETIC ANIMAL TESTING; BAN COULD BE PASSED IN

SEPTEMBER ................................................................................................................................................ 4

CCE to hold second Open Academy for industry professionals ..................................................... 5

Commission Secretary General addresses Brexit and possibly resulting legislation gaps in

Parliament ................................................................................................................................................ 6

Compromise amendments to IMCO INI report to support "blacklist" option................................. 6

ENVI INI report - Compromise amendments highlight the ECHA restriction process ................... 7

Environmental aspects of cosmetics: ingredients to finished products .......................................... 8

Marketing over science? Microbiota and skin care insight ......................................................... 10

First Trilogues kick-off meeting took place on June 28th ................................................................ 11

Inspectors to check internet sales of chemicals .............................................................................. 11

Japan passes bill to lower microplastics ............................................................................................ 12

L’Oreal to Disclose Fragrance Ingredients ........................................................................................ 13

New EU organic production and labelling Regulation .................................................................. 14

The European cosmetics market grew by 1.3% in 2017 .................................................................. 15

REACH registration results after 2018 .................................................................................................. 17

REACH: ECHA adds 10 new substances to Candidate list ............................................................. 18

UNEP publishes review of scientific knowledge & list of identified and potential EDs................ 18

Why autophagy is essential for cells and cosmetics applications ............................................... 19

World Perfumery Congress June 5-7, 2018 ........................................................................................ 21

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A French Consortium for Essential Oils in

Aromatherapy

Eight companies that together account for over

90% of the French essential oil market for aromatherapy

are joining forces with a view to overcoming the three

major challenges that the future of the industry presents,

namely gathering and circulating up-to-date scientific

information on essential oils, reinforcing the correct

usage of Eos and making them safer to to use, and

developing a new and appropriate regulatory status for

aromatherapy products. EO usage can now span six

different sets of regulations owing to their efficacy and

their versatillty, which can see them classed as drugs,

medical devices, cosmetics, food supplements,

convenience goods governed by the CLP Regulation

or even biocides, which represent a rapidly-developing sector. Furthermore, there are still a

number of inconsistencies between the regulations that apply to EOs and their traditional

usage, which creates complex situation not only for the regulation authorities but also for

players in the market and consumers. The EO Consortium was formed between Arkopharma,

Aroma-Zone, Laboratoires Gilbert, Omega Pharma, Pierre Fabre, Puressentiel and Weleda.

SOURCE: E.F.E.O. Newsletter № 5

Biocidal Products Committee concludes on a

Union authorisation for disinfectants

The Committee supported the approval of DBNPA for use as a disinfectant. It also

concluded on one application for Union authorisation.

Helsinki, 29 June 2018 – The Biocidal Products Committee supported the approval

of DBNPA for use in disinfectants (product-type 4). However, the evaluating Member State,

Denmark, has been requested to assess whether the active substance meets the new criteria

for endocrine-disrupting properties before the Committee adopts its opinion on the active

substance.

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The Committee could not conclude on the proposal for chlorfenapyr for use in pest

control products, and therefore a revised proposal will need to be submitted to the

Committee.

The Committee also concluded favourably on an application for Union authorisation for a

product family containing iodine/PVP-iodine.

Following a request from the European Commission, the Committee also adopted an

opinion on a product used for the temporary preservation of corpses. The Committee

concluded that a substance in the product acts as an active substance in line with the

definition set out in the Biocidal Products Regulation (substance name confidential).

The European Commission together with the EU Member States will take the final decision

on the approval of the active substances and on the Union authorisation of the biocidal

products.

The Committee met from 27 June to 28 June 2018. The opinions will be available on

ECHA’s website in the near future. The next meeting will be held in October 2018.

SOURCE: www.echa.europa.eu

CANADIAN SENATE PASSES BILL ON

COSMETIC ANIMAL TESTING; BAN COULD BE

PASSED IN SEPTEMBER

The Canadian Senate has

passed Bill S-214 at its third reading,

a move that has been described as

a ‘surprise’. The bill will be presented

to the House of Commons at the

beginning of the next legislative

session in September and, if passed,

animal testing will no longer be

permitted for cosmetics in Canada.

The Body Shop and Cruelty Free International both hailed the result as a success for their

joint campaign, Forever Against Animal Testing, which to date has collected 6.5 million

signatures. The duo delivered a petition to the Canadian Parliament with some 630,000

Canadian signatures in support of a ban – the largest petition to be delivered in over 70 years.

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“This is fantastic progress. The support of the Canadian government, and in particular

Senator Stewart Olsen, brings us one step closer to a ban on animal testing on cosmetics in

Canada for good,” Jessie Macneil-Brown, Head of Global Campaigns at The Body Shop

International. “We ask everyone everywhere to keep passionately campaigning and standing

up for those who don’t have a voice! Our fight isn’t over yet.”

Monica Engebretson, North America Campaign Manager at Cruelty Free International,

added, “We are delighted that Canada is joining the growing international movement

towards a world without cosmecs animal tesng. Canada now has a real opportunity to

become the North American leader on this issue. By ending the sale of animal tested

cosmetics, Canada can match global progress and meet the demands of consumers across

Canada, who have demonstrated me and again that they support a Cruelty Free Canada.”

SOURCE: https://globalcosmeticsnews.com/

CCE to hold second Open Academy for industry

professionals By Lucy Whitehouse

The programme for this year’s Cosmetics Consultants Europe (CCE) Open Academy has

been revealed.

The event is aimed at industry professionals and oers an industry- sharing opportunity for

consultants, formulators, branding professionals and regulators alike.

It is to be held in Barcelona on 5-6. November at the Spanish Society of Cosmetic

Chemists, and this will be its second consecutive year.

This year’s theme is “Cosmetics from inside Out - From latest Marketing Trends to Global

Regulatory

Aairs”, and registration to attend the event is set to open soon.

Overview of the programme

On the 1rst of the two days, the programme will cover two broad areas: ‘Trends and

claims and science’, and ‘From formulation to market entrance.’

Presentations currently conrmed include: Latest marketing trend: Microbiota Environmental aspects entering the cosmetics arena The claims challenge Ecacy of cosmetics and their ingredients Translating trends and science into formulation Regulation(EC)1223/2009 - Firewall the EU’s internal market?

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The country pitfalls - EU member states’ additional legal requirements Translating regulation into compliance: the CCE’s guidance on safety assessment

The second day of the programme will cover another two broad themes: ‘Quality & data

generation & management’ and ‘Global regulatory challenges’.

Presentations under these areas so far conrmed include:

In-vitro test alternatives: how are we doing? Embracing quality risk management to build a strong quality culture IT technology enabling cosmetics’ global risk management Regulations - what is presently occurring in Africa? Global regulation: updates and case studies on Asia, ASEAN, Australia and North

America

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

Commission Secretary General addresses Brexit

and possibly resulting legislation gaps in

Parliament

MEPs from the Committee on Constitutional

Affairs AFCO had on July 2nd an exchange of views

with Director Pascal Leardini from the Secretary

General of the European Commission.

Director Leardini is responsible for a special "Brexit

preparedness" unit which Cosmetics Europe believes

is responsible to ensure a clear coordination among

all Commission DGs and provide support to the Brexit

TF led by Michel Barnier and negotiating under a

mandate of the European Council.

During the discussions in AFCO, Mr Leardini

presented the ongoing work by the Commission on

the so called “Brexit preparedness", i.e. the adaptation of the EU legislative framework in light

of the UK’s departure from the EU.

At the beginning of his presentation, he recalled the European Council Conclusions from

29 June, in which the EU leaders renewed its call upon Member States, Union institutions and all

stakeholders to accelerate their work on preparedness at all levels and for all outcomes.

He further emphasised that although the Commission was fully committed to reaching an

agreement on the UK’s withdrawal and its future relationship with the EU, it considered it had

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an obligation to undertake contingency planning. This includes preparing for the so called

“cliff-edge scenario”, under which the Withdrawal Agreement would not be finalised and

agreed by the date of the withdrawal stipulated in Article 50 of the Treaty on the Functioning

of the EU (i.e. 29 March 2019).

In that regard, and for instance, the Commission had identified a number of legal acts

which will need to be adapted in the context of the withdrawal. The acts would be either

“preparedness acts”, which would serve to fill gaps in the legislation, or contingency measures

to remedy negative impacts in the case of “cliff-edge” scenario. Mr Leardini emphasised that

some matters require legislative acts to be adopted by the co-legislator, whereas other issues

can be dealt with by implementing or delegated acts under the existing empowerments

received by the Commission.

Responding to MEPs questions, Mr. Leardini said that the Commission had not undertaken

impact assessments of a “no-deal scenario”, because the implications of such a scenario

would be very diverse depending on the exact circumstances at the time of UK’s withdrawal.

Also, he stated that the Commission did not have any plans to extend the Art. 50 TFEU

deadline, particularly because this is not within its remit to do so, as the Commission follows

guidelines agreed by the European Council. He also reminded that if the Withdrawal

Agreement is rejected by the Council or the Parliament, the EU acquis provide for a number of

emergency measures which can be followed, e.g. in the area of customs.

Cosmetics Europe continues to work on the possibility to prepare a position paper

addressing more specifically the question of the future relationships between the EU 27 and the

UK.

SOURCE: Cosmetics Europe Weekly PA Highlights

Compromise amendments to IMCO INI report to

support "blacklist" option

Next week the Parliament Committee for Consumer protection and the Single market will

adopt its report (own-initiative and non-binding) on the issue of dual quality of seemingly

identical products in Europe.

Cosmetics Europe was able to consult the compromise amendments (not yet publicly

available). In a nutshell:

A majority of MEPs are convinced that this is a real issue, and does not only

concern the food sector but also the non-food products such as for instance detergents

and cosmetics.

They support the extension of the JRC common methodology developed for food

products to non food products.

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They welcomed the Commission's proposal to amend the Unfair Commercial

Practices directive (UCPD) under Article 6 for Misleading actions. They however consider

that from an implementation perspective (which must be carried out by the Member

States for this directive), this would not be clear and effective enough to tackle the issue.

They therefore recommend to instead amend the Annex I of the UCPD which is a

"blacklist" (prohibited) of practices under the objective and scope of the directive.

In strong coordination with our national associations in Central European Member States, it

was confirmed to us that this is the joint approach between the S&D and the EPP political

groups (only the ECR and ALDE are against this idea, but are nonetheless in favour of

extending the JRC methodology to non food products). This is considered extremely

concerning by Cosmetics Europe in the specific context of the ongoing legislative work on the

omnibus proposal to modernise consumers rights legislation from the "New Deal for Consumers"

package and for which MEP Dan Dalton (ECR, UK) is rapporteur.

Cosmetics Europe will attend next week a new meeting of the joint FoodDrinkEurope /

AIM task force and will coordinate the received intelligence with other industries. Given the

current mandate, it is not foreseen to proactively engage with decision-makers at Cosmetics

Europe level.

This week, the survey prepared and endorsed by the SCT ARC has been cascaded by

John Chave to ACMs, SCMs and AAMs. We have started to receive answers. These answers will

be pivotal in building up the next steps.

SOURCE: Cosmetics Europe Weekly PA Highlights

ENVI INI report - Compromise amendments

highlight the ECHA restriction process

Cosmetics Europe had the possibility to look at the compromise amendments to the Own-

initiative report on the Plastics Strategy from MEP Mark Demesmaeker (ECR, BE). This report will

be adopted on Tuesday 10th in the ENVI Committee (plenary vote expected for September in

Strasbourg).

Cosmetics Europe substantially engaged with MEPs and in coordination with certain AAMs

(around 30 MEPs and assistants met) to raise awareness about the ongoing restriction

procedure managed by ECHA on intentionally added microplastics. The objective is to avoid

the hijacking of the Commission's proposal on single use plastics so that this directive would not

address microplastics at the terms of the decision-making process and in line with Cosmetics

Europe Board mandate to avoid a stand-alone legislation. The advocacy approach was

delegated by the Microplastics TF to the SCT ARC so that the TF could continue to solely focus

on the procedure under REACH.

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The following amendments are expected to be adopted in ENVI next week (these are

supported by 7 political groups over 8):

• [Recital] Whereas the Commission’s request to ECHA to examine the scientific basis

to restrict the use of intentionally added micro-plastics to consumer or professional use

products, is welcomed; Whereas several Member States have already put in place national

legislative measures for banning micro-plastics which are intentionally added to cosmetics;

• [Paragraph] 30. Calls on the Commission to introduce a ban on micro-plastics in

cosmetics, personal care, detergents and cleaning products by 2020; furthermore calls on

ECHA to assess and prepare, if appropriate, a ban on micro-plastics which are intentionally

added to other products taking into account whether viable alternatives are available;

Cosmetics Europe welcomes that the ECHA procedure will be acknowledged by the

European Parliament through this own-initiative report.

It is regretted that the compromise negotiations between political groups did not reflect

fully our arguments on the need to ensure the availability of alternative ingredients before

implementing a ban. The final compromise text also differentiates the ongoing process on

cosmetics and detergents to "other products" that are not specified: this wording does not

reflect the reality of the ongoing procedure.

That said, Cosmetics Europe’s objective in that regard is successful so far. We will monitor

the vote next week and provide you with the final draft report next Friday.

Meanwhile, ECHA has still not published its direction on definitions in the context of the

REACH process. Cosmetics Europe has been following up with ECHA. Cosmetics Europe will

also meet with DG GROW on Monday 9th.

SOURCE: Cosmetics Europe Weekly PA Highlights

Environmental aspects of cosmetics: ingredients

to finished products By Lucy Whitehouse

Communication between the industry and the scientic

community is crucial if the beauty and personal care industry is

to meet demand for sustainability.

This was the theme of a session at the recent Cosmetics Europe

Annual Conference (CEAC), run by the trade association of the

European cosmetics industry based in Brussels.

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Details of the session: environmental impact

The session aimed at discussing the current activities of the cosmetics industry regarding

environmental safety assessment (with an overview of the current REACH Environmental Risk

Assessment approach which covers environmental assessment of cosmetics), from an

individual ingredients perspective (with a clear example of the science aspects involving the

topic of microplastics), to the activities regarding moving towards a more sustainable future (in

terms of the dierent cosmetic products).

The session also included an overview of the current environmental topics the cosmetics

industry is facing and future challenges where the industry needs to work on.

Discussions during the session covered topics such as dedicated exposure models for

cosmetics, how to communicate better with the scientic community on the work of the

cosmetics industry regarding environmental aspects of cosmetics and where to improve.

Environmental demands

We spoke to Gerald Renner, Director Technical Regulatory and International Aairs,

Cosmetics Europe, about this topic.

He predicts that there will be “more spill-over of environmental issues from a ‘chemicals

debate’ to a ‘cosmetics debate’.”

“One can argue that the environmental impact of substances is best addressed

horizontally i.e. looking at the combined environmental load from all products using the

substance, rather than by studying each sector separately,” he explains, with the full interview

available here.

“However, any regulatory risk management measures may need to be taken on a sector-

by -sector basis.”

The regulatory expert notes that REACH puts pressure on the industry to meet demands

around environmental impact.

“The REACH Regulation allows to regulate cosmetic ingredients for environmental reasons

(and has done so in the past).

“It is interesting to see that cosmetics have become a poster child for some environmental

issues, such as microplastics and endocrine disruptors.

“Although the REACH mechanisms continue to be the best regulatory tool to address

these types of environmental issues, I am sure that there will be pressure for opening up the

Cosmetics Regulation to environmental requirements.”

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

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Marketing over science? Microbiota and skin

care insight By Lucy Whitehouse

We ask an industry expert for their take

on the microbiome and its potential for skin

care disruption.

Patrick Gonry, Director S&C Consultancy is an industry consultant who will be speaking at

the upcoming Cosmetics Consultants Europe (CCE) Open Academy in Barcelona in October.

Full details of the CCE are vailable here, and details so far available for this year’s Open

Academy programme are here.

Find our overview of the skin microbiome trend here, with key expert insights from

Euromonitor market research provider available here.

Where has the demand for microbiota related skin care come from?

Gonry explains that the interest in skin care that works with the skin’s natural microbiome is

one big example of a trend in beauty has moved over from the food industry.

“It is actually coming from the food industry where probiotics have been identied as

having a positive eect on our health,” he conrms.

“Since the skin has his own microbiota, the consumers started to be open to have

probiotics into cosmetics.” Overall, it seems that consumers are the ones demanding skin care

that looks to harness similar processes, says Gonry, and while the industry is keen to respond, it

has not necessarily been able to bring conclusive clinical research yet.

“The demand comes from consumers, the industry was not really ready when this demand

started.” Why is it hitting the industry agenda now, what factors are bringing it into the

spotlight? According to Gonry, two key factors are behind the current wider interest in the

emerging trend. “First the test methods are more advanced, and claims can be

substantiated,” he says.

“Secondly, marketing is observing a big opportunity as the consumer is ready to hear

about micro-organisms.”

What are the latest shifts and innovations that have been seen in this space?

Gonry again suggests that marketing is taking a lead where science is still lacking.

“Unfortunately, it’s a lot of marketing and very few substantiations. Some ingredients have

been tested on their impact on the skin microbiota,” he says.

“Although there is a lot of noise, there is very few substantiated products. We see more

and more postbiotics (=dead probiotics) and prebiotics.”

Finally, Gonry notes that we should look to consolidate industry eorts in this eld if skin care

based on the skin’s microbiome is to reach its potential.

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“Although the interest in skin microbiota is huge, we are lacking guidance. Everybody is

doing something, but there is no standard,” he concludes.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

First Trilogues kick-off meeting took place on

June 28th

The first trilogue meeting on the adaptation of pre-Lisbon legislation to TFEU article 290 and

291 for respectively delegated acts and implementing took place on the 28th of June.

Cosmetics Europe intelligence obtained from various sources is as follows :

• No specific methodology was approved but more of a general approach to how to

tackle this very long proposal of 400 pages.

• Co-legislators agreed first to identify areas where there are alignments of views

• Then they would look at horizontal matters e.g. should deletion of empowerments could

be accepted, or withdrawals where there are ongoing legislative procedures

• The Council insisted on the necessity to work via a case by case assessments

• A further technical meeting is expected to take place in July and then further trilogue

meetings will be for after the summer break. The July technical meeting will look at identifying

the areas where there is alignment. It is uncertain how long this task will take.

An overall meetings calendar has not yet been agreed on.

The discussions on horizontal matters will be relevant for cosmetics as that may set

principles for whether deletions of empowerments/withdrawals will be acceptable or not.

As far as Cosmetics Europe understands, co-legislators are not ready yet to address

individual legislations from the Commission’s proposal however.

Cosmetics Europe will ensure that the European Parliament and the Austrian Presidency

are well briefed in on the cosmetics case and will seek meetings post the summer break.

Informal contacts and discussions have been made already, and a strong coordination and

information sharing continues with the European Commission.

SOURCE: Cosmetics Europe Weekly PA Highlights

Inspectors to check internet sales of chemicals

A new enforcement project on online sales will be carried out in 2020. It will likely include

restrictions and labelling duties. The report of the REF-5 project checking the safety of the

working environment is under preparation.

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Helsinki, 25 June 2018 – The Forum for Exchange of Information on Enforcement (Forum)

held its 30th meeting on 19-20 June 2018 and its BPR Subgroup (BPRS) met on 21 June 2018.

The eighth major Forum enforcement project (REF-8) will concentrate on online sales of

substances, mixtures and articles. One reason for this focus is the high rate of non compliance

detected in the Forum’s pilot project on internet sales. The detailed scope to be checked

under REF-8 is yet to be defined. It is expected to include restrictions and labelling duties for

hazardous chemicals. The project will be prepared in 2019 and carried out in 2020, with the

report expected to be published by the end of 2021.

The Forum also agreed that inspections for the pilot project on authorisation focusing on

chromium VI compounds and other substances will take place in 2020. This will allow inspectors

to target more substances and give downstream users sufficient time to notify their authorised

uses to ECHA. The inspectors will target companies that are using substances of concern

without the required authorisation. Additionally, they will check that authorisation holders and

their downstream users comply with the conditions of the authorisation decision.

During the meeting, Forum members also discussed the preliminary results of the REF-5

project on exposure scenarios, extended safety data sheets and the implementation of risk

management measures and operational conditions. The aim of the project is to check

communication in the supply chain and consistency of the extended safety data sheets with

the content of the chemical safety reports. The project also looks at whether the risk

management measures recommended in the exposure scenarios are actually implemented in

the workplace. 29 countries participated in the project. A total of 898 inspections were carried

out in collaboration between labour and environmental inspectors. The report is currently

being prepared and its adoption and publication are foreseen for the end of 2018.

The results of the REF-5 project will be presented at the Forum-31 open session for

stakeholders planned for 14 November 2018 in Brussels.

SOURCE: www.echa.europa.eu

Japan passes bill to lower microplastics By Natasha Spencer

In a bid to actively tackle ocean pollution, The Upper House in Japan has passed a bill to

reduce microparticles.

The bill focuses on the actions of manufacturers and companies to stop using

microproducts in their goods, particularly personal care companies producing items such as

skin care items, face washes and toothpaste. It calls for manufacturers to lower plastic particle

emissions.

A rst in legislation

Approved by Japan’s parliament on Friday 15th June, The Environment Ministry explains

that this focus on microplastics is thought to represent the rst piece of legislation in the country

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to adopt measures that strive to lower microplastics in the environment, Global Cosmetics

News reveals.

The Japan Cosmetic Industry Association rst

expressed its calls for the nation's businesses to reduce

its microplastic use in 2016.

Japan's new microplastic law aims to enable local

governments to up the level of education and

awareness to its residents on issues such as plastic

reduction and recycling, the Jakarta Post revealed.

Lack of sanctions

While this legislation is a positive step and revises the existing legislation that seeks to

remove and dispose of marine debris, it does not impose any sanctions for those that do not

comply.

Despite the bill receiving unanimous approval in Japan’s Upper House, its lack of

sanctions for enforcement highlights questions over its efectiveness and likelihood of

compliance.

Education and awareness

Microplastics, including microbeads, are tiny plastic particles that commonly appear in a

variety of cosmetics items including washes, creams and pastes. Education has been on the

up in APAC, with an Indian study recently communicating their high frequency in cosmetics

goods and awareness relating to their detrimental and unsafe nature. The negative

environmental impact of microplastics has been gaining traction in recent years. In 2017,

researchers found 40% of sh caught had microplastics in their digestive systems, following a

survey conducted across Japan.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-asia.com

L’Oreal to Disclose Fragrance Ingredients

According to Chemical Watch, L’Oréal has revealed plans to disclose certain fragrance

ingredients for its products. A spokesperson for the French beauty giant declined to confirm a

specific launch date for the initiative to the publication, claiming it was ‘confidential’.

“We would like to take this opportunity to state our future goal of communicating to a

larger extent the composition of our perfumes in all our products, in a way that meets the

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expectations of our customers and ensures their safety while at the same time respecting the

know-how of our perfume creators and protecting us from the major risks of fine fragrance

counterfeiting,” the company representative told Chemical Watch.

The move comes as pressure mounts for personal care manufacturers to be transparent

about the contents of their products; NGO US Public Interest Research Group (PIRG) has been

calling for L’Oréal to be more open with consumers.

“Certain fragrance chemicals have been linked to cancer and hormone disruption, and

consumers have a right to know which chemicals are in the products they use. L’Oréal should

step up and disclose fragrance ingredients, because we’re worth it,” Dev Gowda, Director of

Make It Toxic Free for US PIRG told Chemical Watch.

SOURCE: https://globalcosmeticsnews.com/

New EU organic production and labelling

Regulation

A new Regulation (EU) 2018/848 on organic production and labelling of

organic products (Official Journal of the EU L 150 of 14th June 2018)

replacing the current Regulation (EC) 834/2007 will apply as from 1st

January, 2021. It covers agricultural products under the European Union

Treaty as well as further products under annex I of the revised Regulation,

which now explicitly includes essential oils. The arti- cles and annexes deal

with basic rules on organic production, packaging, transport, storage,

labelling, certification system, official controls and trade with non-EU countries. During the

period until 2021, the EU will issue a variety of delegated and implementing acts laying down

detailed rules on different aspects covered by the organic production Regulation. Please note

that under Article 16 and 30 there are rules on the use of flavouring substances/preparations in

processed organic food and on the labelling con- ditions. Please also note that the new

Regulation, for the time being, does not provide specific pesticide residue limits for organic

material as initially proposed. Such considerations might revive in 2024 in context with article 29

which deals with measures in the event of the presence of non-authorized prod- ucts or

substances in organic products.

SOURCE: E.F.E.O. Newsletter № 5

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The European cosmetics market grew by 1.3% in

2017

June 2018, Cosmetics Europe revealed the latest market performance statistics for the

cosmetics and personal care industry. In 2017, the European market grew by 1.3%, compared

to 2016, to reach 77.6 billion euros.

In 2017, the European cosmetics market was valued at 77.6 billion euros, which makes

Europe remain the largest market for cosmetic and personal care products in the world.

According to Cosmetics Europe, the industry supports over 2 million jobs across the

European value chain.

Despite the return to a more dynamic growth, the European market remained impacted

by low performance of some key markets, in particular: the United Kingdom (-6.8%), The

Netherlands (-1.9%) and France (-0.5%).

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As far as products are concerned, all categories are up from 2016, with the exception of

perfumes (-0.4%) and makeup (-0.1%).

Skin care and toiletries remain the most important product categories in Europe, followed

by hair care and fragrances.

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In this context of moderate growth, international trade remains a key driver for the

European industry. More than 20.2 billion euros of cosmetic products were exported by

European countries in 2017 (compared to 18.2 billion in 2016). Total imports amounted to only

5.935 million euros, mainly from the United States, China and Japan (compared to 5.633 million

euros in 2016). More than ever, exports appear as the real propeller of the European cosmetics

industry’s growth.

SOURCE: http://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en

REACH registration results after 2018

The European Chemicals Agency ECHA has published further information on the REACH

registration results after expiry of the last deadline on

31st May, 2018. The communication is available under this link. According to ECHA, 5.435

companies submitted

33.363 registration dossiers. 28.323 of these dossiers have been completed and a

registration number has been assigned. 5.040 registrations are still pending and being

processed by ECHA.

17% of all registrations were submitted by SMEs, while and 83% were sent by large

companies. 29% of the registrations were made by Only Representatives and 48% by importers.

The submitted registrations cover 11.114 substances, 6.824 of which have been registered for

the first time for the 2018 deadline.

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REACH: ECHA adds 10 new substances to

Candidate list

On June 27, 2018, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) added ten new substances to

the Candidate List of substances of very high concern (SVHCs) for authorization. Among the

ten substances are the cyclic siloxanes D4 (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, CAS 556-67-2), D5

(decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, CAS 541-02-6), and D6 (dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,

CAS 540-97-6) that were identified as SVHCs earlier this month (FPF reported). The three

substances are by-products in the manufacture of silicone polymers and can occur in silicone

food contact materials (FCMs) as non-intentionally added substances (NIAS). Cyclic siloxanes

have been shown to migrate from silicone FCMs (see FPF topical dossier). D4, D5, and D6 are

included in the FACET inventory of FCMs.

The other new entries are: Lead (CAS 7439-92-1), disodium octaborate (CAS 12008-41-2),

benzo[ghi]perylene (CAS 191-24-2), terphenyl hydrogenated (CAS 61788-32-7),

ethylenediamine (EDA, CAS 107-15-3), benzene-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid 1,2 anhydride (trimellitic

anhydride) (TMA, CAS 552-30-7), and dicyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP, CAS 84-61-7).

EDA and TMA have respiratory sensitizing properties and are included in the Union List of

substances authorized for use in plastic FCMs (Annex I of Regulation (EU) No 10/2011),

the ESCO working group list of non-plastic FCMs, and the FACET list. DCHP is toxic for

reproduction and has endocrine disrupting properties with effects on human health; it is

included in the ESCO and FACET lists. Disodium octaborate is toxic for reproduction and listed

in the FACET inventory.

Lead is reprotoxic and has uses in “metals, welding and soldering products, metal surface

treatment products, and polymers,” ECHA informed. Benzo[ghi]perylene has persistent,

bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT) as well as very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB)

properties and “occurs as a constituent or impurity in other substances.” Terphenyl

hydrogenated has vPvB properties and is used “as a plastic additive, solvent, in coatings/inks,

in adhesives and sealants, and heat transfer fluids.”

SOURCE: Cosmetics Europe Weekly PA Highlights

UNEP publishes review of scientific knowledge &

list of identified and potential EDs

The Environment division of the United Nations, UNEP, published this week three reports

reviewing the overall scientific knowledge about endocrine disruptors, analysing and

comparing the identification methodology that are today being used, and finally establishing

a list of substances that have been identified as an endocrine disruptor (or a potential ED)

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according to risk scientific assessments in and outside the European Union. These reports were

prepared by the International Panel on Chemical Pollution (IPCP).

The list as above mentioned is divided into two distinct parts:

A first list contains substances already identified and added to the ECHA list of

substances of very high concern (SVHC).

The second list contains identified and potential endocrine disruptors from other

stakeholder than the European Chemicals Agency (the SIN list from the NGO ChemSec or

criteria from Denmark).

A first draft of this list was published in August 2016. The global chemical industry submitted

substantial comments back then, claiming that the inclusion of many of these substances was

based on unsubstantial and not solid enough data.

Cosmetics Europe noticed from the list certain substances that may be used in cosmetic

and personal care products. It should be recalled that this list has no legal effect and does not

mean the triggering of regulatory measures in or outside the European Union. It is however

expected to attract media attention and further NGOs and consumer groups campaigns.

For reactive use only and with media, you may wish to consult and use our messages on

the issue as accessible on Cosmetics Europe extranet here. If you feel the need to refresh your

memory on the situation in the European Union as far as the topic of endocrine disruptors is

concerned from a legislative and political perspectives, our latest edition of the Issue

Management Snapshot is available here.

SOURCE: Cosmetics Europe Weekly PA Highlights

Why autophagy is essential for cells and

cosmetics applications By Natasha Spencer

Professor Yoshinori Ohsumi of Tokyo Institute of Technology, Japan, received the Nobel

Prize in Physiology or Medicine in 2016, for his finding of essential genes relating to autophagy

almost 30 years ago.

As awareness surrounding autophagy is now on the rise, we look at what it is, how it has

come to the forefront of health care and what cosmetics applications this can provide.

Why is autophagy essential?

Taking us through why autophagy is essential for cells, Keedon Park, CEO, Incospharm

relayed that “cells are relentlessly facing various stresses, from the nutrient deprivation and

malfunctioning proteins to oxidative, UV damages, and microbial infections”.

Identied as a recycling machinery of cells, autophagy was first described as a self-eating,

cellular energy maintenance process, Park noted. However, further investigation revealed that

it encompasses much wider roles including innate cellular protection system.

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Similar to the innate immune system, which is a germ-line encoded immune system

playing as a first line of defence against infection, autophagy also provides “cellular

protection against both endogenous and exogenous damages”.

A protection system

Describing autophagy, as a protection system, Park noted that it is a “both a jury and

prosecutor; deciding the fate of cells in response to cellular stresses and also helping to resolve

the stresses”.

Without autophagy, whether it is a skin cell, liver cell or brain cell, intracellular

accumulation of harmful materials, such as malfunctioning proteins, damaged organelles, and

infiltrated microbes, is “uncontrollable”, leading to more severe symptoms such as psoriasis,

diabetes, or Alzheimer’s disease.

“Therefore, autophagy is essential to all cells in the human body for maintaining the

healthy or normal status, known as homeostasis,” observed Park.

Well-known signals

There are several well-known signals initiating the autophagy process. Change of cellular

energy state, binding of specic molecules into a certain cellular receptor, which is called mTOR

(mammalian target of rapamycin), and diverse cellular stress mostly targeting endoplasmic

reticulum (ER).

Through these initiating signals, double-membrane enclosed, sphere-shaped micro-

organelle (autophagosome) forms are later fused with lysosome (a waste removal specialist in

a cell) to form autophagosome. This then eliminates target materials.

It is important to note that “autophagy is not a simple reaction”, but rather a well-

coordinated, sequence of events. “Hence, it requires careful and thorough experiments for

measuring the overall ux of autophagy events, not a simple change of one or two proteins, to

identify autophagy modulating molecules,” Park added.

The process in which autophagy inducing molecules reach into the cells diers from

molecule to molecule.

Ageing process

“Autophagy is an innate process triggered by unfavourable conditions (malnutrition,

ageing, stress) in the cell, and occurs naturally,” explained Park.

“However, when the cell is too aged, or due to malfunction of the autophagic process

itself, the cell needs assistance from the external environment, such as autophagy inducing

molecules.”

Considering the impact that this does have on skin conditions such as anti-ageing and

anti-whitening, decreased autophagy activity is observed in aged skin as expected.

“It is also speculated that stimulation of autophagy process can correct or reverse the

ageing process of skin cells. And we are now witnessing many evidences of skin anti-ageing

effects of autophagy activators, including Incospharm’s Aquatide or MelaTrepein.”

Skin whitening

Whitening is another important area of interest for autophagy research. “During the skin

pigmentation process, melanin pigments produced in melanocytes are packaged into

melanosomes and transported into nearby keratinocytes,” said Park.

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While many of whitening ingredients target the melanin production process in

melanocytes, there is a possibility of unexpected side effects, such as unwanted damages on

melanocytes. Stimulation of autophagy process in keratinocytes, however, can help to

eliminate the already transported melanosomes in keratinocytes, while not acting on

melanocyte.

This may then offer several benets as whitening ingredients, such as avoidance of

unwanted melanocyte damage or synergistic eects with other whitening ingredients.

What does the future hold?

Sharing why autophagy is such an important consideration, Park went on to say:

“Nowadays, we are challenged by more and more stresses, including an increased amount of

UV and particulate matter (PM).”

Unlike other kinds of anti-stress strategies that address specific points of action, autophagy

is an innate cellular protection mechanism and activation of autophagy reaction can provide

holistic protection for cells and, ultimately, skin.

Looking ahead, therefore, the industry requires an “extensive understanding about the

mode of action for developing cosmetic ingredients for autophagy application”, Park

concluded.

SOURCE: www.cosmeticsdesign-asia.com

World Perfumery Congress June 5-7, 2018

According to the organisation, this year’s

WPC brought together more than 1,800

attendees from around the world, including at

least 300 perfumers to discuss and explore the

future of fragrance and more than 90 exhibitors

showing the latest fragrance ingredients and

technologies, equipment, packaging and more.

The theme, “A Sense of What’s Next”, framed the

educational sessions which featured topics on

creativity, consumer insights, niche and

commercial brands, regulatory policy and more.

The Master Perfumer Workshops, led by

several world-renowned master perfumers, offered a hance for perfumers to learn technical

and creative skills first-hand in an intimate setting, while the Petit WPC featured in-depth topics

facing the industry.

SOURCE: E.F.E.O. Newsletter № 5