Cooperative Extension Service

Franklin County

101 Lakeview Court

Frankfort KY 40601

(502) 695-9035

Fax: (502) 695-9309

www.ca.uky.edu/ces

Rhubarb: The Pie Plant By Dave Trinklein, U of MO Floriculture Specialist

Fans of the popular public radio show, A Prairie Home

Companion, know that when life, seemingly, cannot get

any worse, “one little thing can revive a guy, and that is a

piece of rhubarb pie.” Whether the latter is truth or fiction,

the fact is rhubarb is commonly known as the “world’s

favorite pie plant”. Considered by many to be one of the

joys of spring, March and April is an ideal month to plant

rhubarb for those who might want to add this tangy

vegetable to their garden.

The first recorded use of rhubarb dates back to 2700 B.C.

when records show that its roots were used for medicinal

purposes by the Chinese. An important drug at that time,

it was used to treat malaria, constipation, “people who

have delirious speech with fever” and many other

ailments. The success of rhubarb as a medicine was not a

placebo. It is now known that rhubarb roots contain

phenolic compounds known as anthraquinones, such as

emodin and rhein. The latter give the plant its cathartic

and laxative properties.

The earliest known report of the use of rhubarb as a food

dates back to 18th century Europe where it was used as a

filling for tarts and pies. Ben Franklin is credited with

being one of the first people to introduce rhubarb to the

New World, when he sent seeds of the plant to the

American Colonies. By the early part of the 19th century (Continued on Page 3)

Spring Weed Control In Your Lawn

By Andrew Rideout, UK Henderson Co. Hort. Agent

Thick, lush lawns are beautiful, but weed pressures are

sure to emerge this spring. Spring and summer annuals as

well as perennial weeds can not only distort a picturesque

lawn, but also thin your lawn and rob nutrients from our

preferred fescue. Proper weed identification and good

planning will keep the majority of your weeds at bay this

year.

In Kentucky, we have several spring germinating weeds

that are fairly easy to identify. Dandelion, henbit,

chickweed, and purple deadnettle are some of the most

common early weeds. Later, as the soil temperatures

warm up, crabgrass and goose grass show up, often with a

vengeance.

Identification is key to control. There are three basic types

of weeds in our lawns; broadleaf weeds, grass-like weeds,

and sedges. Just like the name implies, broadleaf weeds

have broad leaves while grass like weeds have “blades”

similar to fescue. Sedges are identified by a strong,

protruding midrib creating a triangular blade. Knowing

what weed you have and a little about its life cycle will

help tremendously with determining the best control.

(Continued on Page 2)

WHAT’S INSIDE THIS MONTH…

Spring Weed Control In Your Lawn ........................................... 1

Rhubarb: The Pie Plant ................................................................ 1

Fire Blight Alert ............................................................................ 2

Kentucky Nature Preserve Tour .................................................. 4

Home Hort Hints ........................................................................... 5

Spinach Pasta Bake Recipe .......................................................... 5

First Fruits: Bane to Blessings ..................................................... 6

CAMG Plant Sale .......................................................................... 7

New Opportunity with Franklin Co Farmers Market ............... 9

Typically with any lawn weed, control products are

either pre-emergent or post-emergent. Most broadleaf

weeds are best controlled post-emergently with a

common herbicide 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid, or

2,4-D for short. 2,4-D can be purchased in a

concentrated liquid formulation, or an easier to use

granular product in combination with a fertilizer. When

applying a granular post-emergent herbicide, it is

important to ensure the granular particles adhere to the

leaf of the target weed. Applying the herbicide in the

early morning when the lawn is damp is often the best

time.

Pre-emergent herbicides are used to prevent the

germination of many weeds, but we apply it in lawns to

target crabgrass and goose grass. Preemergents work by

forming a layer just below the soil surface. As the weed

germinates, it will come into contact with the herbicide

and growth will stop before the weed reaches the

surface. Pre-emergents are available in liquid

formulations but most often homeowners utilize the

granular formulation for easier application.

Properly timed applications of pre-emergent herbicides

are most critical for best control. If the target weed has

already germinated, it is too late to control with a pre-

emergent. Crab grass and goose grass germinate as the

soil temperature warms up and forsythia

blooms are a good sign that the soil is getting

warm enough for crabgrass to germinate. This

spring watch for the forsythia blooms and

apply your pre-emerge within the following 2

weeks. Always follow the label with

any control product.

Proper weed identification and proper

herbicide selection and application

will help keep your lawn healthy. If

you need help with weed identification

or weed control, contact your local

Extension Office and they can help

direct you to the best resources.

(Spring Weeds...Continued from on Page 1)

2

Quick Tip Try to avoid spring and summer lawn

fertilization. Nitrogen applied to

turf between April and September

can promote excessive top growth,

which decreases resistance to

drought, disease, and heat. If your

lawn is still a sickly yellow-green

by the end of April, however, you

may apply a half rate of nitrogen

(apply 1/2# N/1,000 sq. ft.) to

“green it up”.

Fire Blight Alert and Risk Map Overview By Nicole Ward Gauthier, Extension Specialist, and Kim-berly Leonberger, Extension Associate

Apple trees are approaching bloom and many pear trees

are in full bloom, especially in southwestern Kentucky.

Infection by the fire blight bacterium occurs during

bloom, thus, protectant antibiotics should be applied when

risk is high.

Risk for infection can be assessed using the Fire Blight

Disease Prediction Model. Growers can assess local risk

by selecting their county and orchard history. This model

incorporates the previous 4 days of weather data plus adds

a 7-day forecast for estimating leaf wetness and tempera-

ture (thereby estimating risk for bacterial growth and in-

fection). There are 66 Mesonet weather stations through-

out Kentucky, and weather information for the model is

based on data from the closest weather station. For a mo-

bile (phone or tablet) friendly version of this site,

visithttp://weather.uky.edu/dim.html.

Remember that apple and pear trees must be in bloom for

predictions to be accurate. The map overview presented

here indicates fire blight risk as of March 28, 2016. Ac-

cording to the current assessment, risk is low due to cool

dry weather. A rain event, however, can increase that risk.

Growers are encouraged to check the model regularly for

the most accurate analyses and county-specific forecasts.

Information regarding prevention and management of fire

blight can be found in:

Commercial Fruit Pest Management Guide (ID-232)

Backyard Apple Disease Management Using Cultural

Practices (PPFS-FR-T-21)

Fire Blight (PPFS-FR-T-12)

Fire Blight of Apple (Video)

3

after harvest has concluded will aid in the nutrition of

rhubarb.

Plant rhubarb in a shallow trench so that each bud is about

one-half inch below the surface of the soil. Since mature

rhubarb plants are large, space plants two to three feet

apart with in rows separated by at least the same distance.

Firm the soil around the crowns and water in. Keep plants

uniformly moist during establishment but avoid

overwatering. It is best not to harvest rhubarb the year it is

planted. Normal harvest should be possible the second

year and thereafter.

Rhubarb curculio and stem borer represent the two main

insect pests of the species. Both insects bore into stalks

and tunnel into the crown and root system. This damage

also is a pathway for entry for

crown rots. Since insect

damage becomes evident as

plants begin to wilt, infested

plants should be destroyed.

Also, wild dock, a close

relative of rhubarb, growing in

the area should be destroyed

since it can harbor these insects

as well.

Harvest from healthy rhubarb

plants lasts for about two

month, beginning in early

spring. To harvest, grasp the

leaf stalk near its base and pull

it to one side while twisting the

stalk. Avoid harvesting rhubarb

with a knife, since the resulting

wound can encourage crown

rot to develop. Make certain to

remove the toxic leaf blade

soon after the leaf stalk is

harvest. This practice will encourage the leaf stalk to

remain more turgid and crisp.

Also, it is consider a good cultural practice to eliminate

flower stalks as soon as they can be detected. This forces

the plant to put into its leaves and roots the energy that

would have been used to produce flowers and seeds.

Freshly harvested rhubarb is quite perishable and should

be stored in plastic bags in a refrigerator. Rhubarb that

cannot be used within five to seven days after harvest can

be frozen. Cut the leaf stalks into inch-long pieces and

seal them in air-tight plastic bags. Frozen rhubarb keeps

for about a year.

it was widely grown in New England and sold in

vegetable markets there. It was only when sugar became

affordable to the middle-class that rhubarb’s popularity

dramatically increased. Its popularity peaked just before

World War II when sugar rationing made the consumption

of rhubarb a bit harder to swallow.

Rhubarb is a cool-season, perennial vegetable and one of

the first to be harvested in the spring. Growth normally

begins when temperatures rise to the 40° F. range. Only

the leaf stalks of rhubarb may be eaten safely. The leaf

blades contain oxalic acid which crystallizes in the

kidneys and, in extreme cases, can cause death. As

mentioned above, rhubarb roots contain anthraquinones

which have cathartic and laxative properties.

Like many other plants,

rhubarb does not “come true”

from seeds. Therefore, it is

propagated via divisions from

proven varieties such as

‘Valentine’, ‘Victoria’ and

‘Canada Red’. Rhubarb roots

establish best when the

weather is cool; therefore,

propagules should be

purchased as soon as they

become available in the

spring.

Rhubarb is a full-sun plant

that should receive at least six

hours of direct sun each day.

At our latitude, a bit of

afternoon shade can help

rhubarb cope with hot

weather. Although it will

tolerate a variety of soil types,

soil with excellent drainage

and high in organic matter will tend to grow more

productive plants. Rhubarb should never be planted where

water stands at the base of the plant, or in soils with high

clay content. The latter can be made acceptable for

rhubarb production if internal drainage is improved.

Ample amounts of composted manure or other forms of

organic matter will improve poorly-drained soils.

Vigorous in growth habit, rhubarb is a heavy feeder and

benefits from adequate amounts of fertilizer. The addition

of about 2.0 to 2.5 pounds of a complete garden fertilizer

(e.g. 10-10-10) per 100 square feet of garden area at the

beginning of the growing season is recommended. A light

side-dressing with a fertilizer high in nitrogen or the

application of two to three inches of compost or manure

(Rhubarb...Continued from on Page 1)

4

Prune tree fruits and small fruits while they are still

dormant. Remove damaged branches from trees and

shrubs. Wait to prune spring flowering trees and

shrubs until after they have flowered.

Begin raking back mulch from perennials as warm

weather returns. Mulch deeper than one to two inches

may smother regrowth.

Canna rhizomes that were overwintered

indoors can be potted up in nursery con-

tainers or large boxes to get a jump-start

on their growth and flowering this sum-

mer. Divide the rhizomes into pieces that

each have 2-3 growing points or eyes, and

plant them using a well-drained potting

mix. Transplant to the garden when all

danger of frost is past.

Check lawnmowers and other power

landscape and garden equipment to ensure

they are in good working order. Arrange

for repair and routine maintenance early to

avoid the crowds later in the season.

March is usually an excellent time to prune woody

plants in the landscape. The best time for pruning

most plants is just before growth begins in the spring.

An exception is spring flowering plants that should

be pruned just after flowering.

Home Hort Hints for March March marks the time when most of us can resume

steady work in the garden. The soil has thawed and will

likely not freeze again as long as the weather doesn't turn

extremely cold. Here are some activities to accomplish

during the windy month. Don't overexert

those underworked, winter muscles as you

begin your spring gardening. Bend at the

knees and lift with your legs, not your

back.

Start preparing the vegetable garden

and flower beds as soon the soil is able

to be worked. Test this by forming a

ball of soil in your hand. If it crumbles

apart rather than sticks together, it is

dry enough to be worked.

Plant cool season crops such as onions,

radishes, lettuce, and spinach as soon

as you can work the soil. Followed by

beets, turnips, carrots, Swiss chard, and

peas. Also, transplant broccoli, cabbage, and other

cole crops to the garden now.

Transplant trees and shrubs while they are still

dormant. Also, make plans to purchase trees, shrubs,

and perennials for later spring planting.

5

Are you a beekeeper or aspiring beekeeper? Or would you just like to learn more about beekeeping? If so, consider attending a meeting or joining our association. Regular and Mentor Program Meetings are held on the fourth Tuesday of each month at 6pm, located at Franklin County Extension office.

First Fruits: Bane to Blessings

By Wes Henry, Capital City Beekeeper Assoc.

If you’ve been watching the bees of late, you’ve probably

noticed their colorful pollen sacs (corbicula) full and

bringing in that precious pollen. Much is from the maple

trees, however, other pre and early-spring sources also

appear in March- the first readily seen nectar and pollen

sources for the bees. A few are seen as invasive and bane,

especially to “grass-growers”, of which I too was once

guilty before keeping bees and understood their im-

portance. Now I’m pleased to see them again and have

found myself encouraging their growth. Although many

would eradicate them for the sake of curb appeal, there

can be compromise. Such is the plight for the common-

place wildflowers/ “weeds” of dandelions and dead nettle.

A perennial, the common dandelion is found and known

to many. Its leaves grow in a rosette from a central stem

that seems to go to China, and sends up many flower

stalks that support flowers consisting of innumerable

bright yellow rays that can stand over a foot tall. In addi-

tion to contributing to the hive, the young greens are edi-

ble by us humans as well as wildlife. The popular “fruits”

of the dandelion resemble white afros and beg to be

blown, releasing the seeds upon the wind to parts un-

known. Birds from the tiny finch to the great wild turkey

eat them.

As with dandelions and Apis mellifera (Honeybees), dead

nettle and its close twin henbit, are not indigenous to

America but rather native to Europe and Asia. A member

of the mint family, the dead nettles are winter hardy- they

generally germinate in the fall. Henbit blossoms are pink

or red, and those of the purple dead nettle are well, purple,

but both appear in the upper parts of the plant several

inches off the ground and fields can be royally covered for

acres.

Dandelion and dead nettle, are a great first part of the

bee’s forage season. Indeed they’re valuable flowers for

both man and bee giving us something to collect, whether

nectar and pollen or greens, when there’s just not much

else at the time.

6

2016 American

Bee Federation

Honey Princess,

Tabitha Mansker

Once again the American

Bee Federation Honey Prin-

cess, came to Frankfort to be

a part of the Bee Friendly

Frankfort Activities and par-

ticipate in the Bluegrass Bee

School. This year’s Princess

is Tabitha Mansker. While here she gave presentations at

many local and surrounding schools, was interviewed on

local radio, met with state legislators and The Ky. Com-

missioner of Agriculture, gave a public talk at Paul

Sawyier Public Library, was a judge at the bee hive hair-

do contest and attended many other functions during BFF

week.

7

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Cooperative Extension Service

University of Kentucky

Franklin County

101 Lakeview Court

Frankfort KY 40601-8749

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New Opportunity with the Franklin County Farmers Market

The Franklin County Farmers Market is reserving one to two new rotating spaces this season for KY Proud producers and artisan craft producers. These ro-tating spaces will give more producers an opportuni-ty to sell once a month at the Franklin County Farm-ers Market and will bring a wider range of products to the market.

The market is open April-November, and is located in Downtown Frankfort under the market pavilion at River View Park. Each rotating vendor would have a minimum of seven regular-season Saturday oppor-tunities to sell at the market. Rotating vendors would also be welcome to sell at any Tuesday or Thursday market and at the Holiday Market in De-cember. Rotating members would have a page on the Franklin County Farmers Market website, be men-tioned in the market’s weekly e-newsletter, and be included in oth-er market promotions.

The cost of joining the Franklin County Farmers Mar-ket as a rotating member is $100 for the season with no additional Saturday fees. To find out more or request an application, please contact Frank-linCountyFarmersMarket@gmail.com or call Connie at 502-223-7936.

Contact the Franklin County Extension Office at (502) 695-9035 if

you would like to receive our newsletter via email or email requests to

gil.thurman@uky.edu or adam.leonberger@uky.edu.

If you DO NOT want to receive this newsletter or your address is incorrect, please notify us immediately.

Adam Leonberger County Extension Agent for Horticulture