at home withfiona o’loughlin

into the blueyoga in the West Mac Ranges

bush to platebush tucker with chef Athol

Wark

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march 2009

tales from the territory…

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Profile

Celebrated Australian comedian Fiona O’Loughlin has called Alice Springs home for the past �3 years.

She has spent the past decade working as a stand-up comedian and columnist and is a regular sell-out performer at the Melbourne International Comedy Festival.

Fiona has appeared on the ABC’s ‘Spicks and Specks’, Channel Seven’s ‘Sunrise’ and Channel Ten’s ‘Rove Live’. Now she lets us in on her top five experiences in the Red Centre.

Simpsons GapSimpsons Gap is a beautiful gap, only 20 minutes from town. It was the first place I visited on my very first trip to Central Australia in the early 80’s. It’s simply stunning.

Todd River when its flowingIt’s such a relief when it flows and there is almost a carnival type atmosphere. The river literally changes the mood of the town.

‘Up the Hill’About once a month we go ‘up the hill’. I can’t give you an exact location as it’s a local secret and we want to keep it that way, but it provides a panoramic view of Alice Springs and its surroundings.

All of the gaps in the West MacDonnell Ranges can be seen from the top and on a full moon you see the sun go down and the moon come up simultaneously. Befriend a local for directions on how to get here.

Ormiston GorgeLooking out from Glen Helen Lodge, Ormiston Gorge is a majestic cliff face that feels and indeed is, millions of years old.

Ooraminna HomesteadOoraminna Homestead is so authentic and a step back in time, yet it offers some of the most sophisticated accommodation in the Territory.

Getting there Alice Springs is serviced by Qantas airlines with direct flights available from all Australian capital cities and Cairns. Tiger Airways also provides direct flights from Melbourne and Adelaide.

The Ghan travels from Adelaide to Alice Springs and visa versa twice a week, and several coach operators travel to Alice Springs.

Photo: Fiona O’Loughlin

WelcomeThanks for your feedback earlier this year! Congratulations to Barbara Sweeney from Country Style who was the winner of the RM Williams gift voucher.

We have taken on board your feedback and proudly announce the first of issue of syNTax – tales from the territory…

Our aim is to arrange story leads and ideas so you may connect with the spectacular landscapes of the NT and relate to our remarkable characters.

For more information or to access our image library, please contact our PR & Media team via: media.tourismnt@nt.gov.au

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Did you know

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Alice Springs has more Aboriginal art galleries per capita than anywhere else in Australia.

A number of permanent waterholes exist in the Red Centre - great for a cool swim - including Ellery Creek Big Hole in the West MacDonnell Ranges.

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If you placed Uluru in the middle of Sydney it would reach from Central Station to the Opera House and soar to more than twice the height of the Harbour Bridge.

Kata Tjuta/The Olgas are 200m taller than the Empire State Building in New York.

The Red Centre is home to the oldest river in the world – the Finke. The river has followed its present course for about 100 million years; some geologists think parts of it have run on the same course for up to 340 million years, well before the dinosaurs evolved.

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Turning your garden into a pharmacyGardeners across the nation are turning once more to Australian native plants – plants that are more hardy than European species, look good and smell great. But how many gardeners realise their bushland backyards are also rich with medicinal benefits?

Veronica Perrule Dobson is an Eastern Arrernte woman, a respected elder, an author and a translator. She takes occasional tours though the Alice Springs Desert Park explaining some of the traditional medicinal uses of native desert plants, including:

Bush lemon grass (Cymbopogon sp): elegant, aromatic grasses which can be boiled and inhaled as a decongestant.

Wild tomato (Solanum chippendalei): burn the root, grind it up and apply it to an aching tooth.

Emu bush (Eremophila longifolia): possibly the most sacred of plants in desert culture, this plant is used widely in ‘smoking’ ceremonies; its smoke is believed to strengthen new-born babies and help mothers recover from childbirth. When ground up or in decoction, it has healing properties for cuts, sores and headaches. It is also said to aid sleep.

Native fuchsia (Eremophila latrobei): pick when shiny (the sap is up) boil it and add it to the bath – good for aches and pains. Sweet nectar found at the base of the bright red flower is a delicacy.

Red poverty bush (Eremophila duttonii): a useful antiseptic and good for the relief of flu.

Apple bush (Pterocaulon serrulatum): crush the delicate leaves to release a pleasing aroma. Good as a decongestant, it is said to have the same qualities as Vicks vapour rub. The leaves are sometimes bunched and used as a pillow.

Mint bush (Prostanthera striatiflora): another lovely aromatic, the mint bush can be ground up and mixed with fat to make an ointment to treat various ailments.

Visit: www.alicespringsdesertpark.com.au

Born in Zimbabwe, educated in South Africa and trained in Europe, Athol moved to Alice Springs in 2001 to start experimenting with native wild foods in anticipation of the Year of the Outback.

During that time, he came under the mentorship of Aboriginal woman, Rayleen Brown.

“At first I was using the likes of lemon myrtle, wattle seed and bush tomato as spices and rubs. But Rayleen taught me about process and how to properly utilize these ingredients. I learned that these foods have core values, that they have culture and integrity.”

Wark has since served native Australian cuisine to guests in Fiji’s five-star island resorts, to dignitaries such as ex-Prime Minister John Howard, Emperor Akihito and ex-President George W Bush.

“I like to think food is a journey and that you can taste the country in wild foods – which is why international audiences are so excited by them,” says Wark.

Rayleen Brown is a mix of Nanggiwumerri and Arrente. Based in Alice Springs, she is also the driving force behind Australia’s largest indigenous catering group, Kungkas Can Cook.

“I met Athol when he was busy trying to change the perception that local chefs have of bush tucker. And yes, I was surprised by him! I was surprised that a white man wanted to learn about what bush tucker means on a cultural level – but also that he was brave enough to get people enthusiastic for raw product.”

But Brown says the exchange has gone both ways. “We work with kids from the communities, inviting them to come and work in my kitchen. And

Bush to Plate with

chef Athol Warkthey get to meet and work alongside Athol – a professional chef who has served presidents!”

According to Brown, wild foods are yet to excite the domestic market as much as the international, but she and Wark envisage young ambassadors with knowledge of traditional wild foods taking messages and skills all around Australia. “It’s about getting more indigenous people trained up and referred into the hospitality industry,” she says.

Wark and Brown believe wild foods are part of both the physical and the cultural landscape and, as such, are part of a story that is ‘rich, long-lasting and satisfying’.

Which, as Athol Wark says, “is more than can be said of a foam.”

Visit: www.warkabout.com.au

Photo: Bush tucker

Photo: Gourmet bush tucker

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From Cold Chisel to whitefella songlines

As we walked, we sang. We sang to the local Aboriginal kids, to the landscape, to people in a local pub… ”

Photo: Larapinta Trail

Until the mid-eighties, Ray Hawkins was a tour manager working with bands like The Angels, Midnight Oil and Cold Chisel. But when the excesses of Rock ‘n’ Roll got too much for him, he literally ‘walked it off’, setting out on a three-month solo march across the Great Dividing Range.

At the end of his journey he realised he wanted to continue touring – only this time at his own pace.

‘Into The Blue Creative Walks’ puts people into the Central Desert, where they’re encouraged to get creative in order to connect with the wilderness, with different cultures and ultimately themselves.

“I lead sculpting tours, writer’s tours, meditation tours, artist’s tours,” says 56-year-old Hawkins, “and it’s all about adding a more meaningful and more personal dimension to the journey.

Hawkins calls the Red Centre a wilderness that is ‘powerful and beautiful’ but he uses experts to guide and encourage people in their chosen fields as the journeys progress.

Last year he engaged Tony Backhouse, a celebrated international choirmaster, to lead a group into the wilderness.

“I couldn’t believe the success of the Outback Choir. Basically, we had a group of 15, and as we walked, we sang. We sang to the local Aboriginal kids, to the landscape, to people in a local pub… ”

In August, a new Desert Choir will be singing its way along the razorbacks of the MacDonnell Ranges. “We’ll have drummers out in the desert, and we’ll have one of the most amazing landscapes as our stage. We’ll end our journey in the beautiful Hermannsburg Church out in western Arrernte country, where we’ll sing a Cappella to the local Arrernte women. And they – I hope – will share with us their traditional and Christian songs.

“The sum of all those parts is that people will experience something that they never expected – nor thought possible.”

For more information about Into the Blue Creative walks visit www.intotheblue.com.au.

7 Day Newhaven BirdwatchingFrom $1800 per person

Tour includes:

Visit Newhaven Bird Sanctuary, Mount Wedge, West MacDonnell Ranges, Boggy Hole water system, Hermannsburg and the Finke River and Ellery Creek systems. All camping equipment, pre and post touring accomodation in Alice Springs, park entry fees, hotel transfers and all meals.

Departs Daily

Phone 13 67 68 for more information

*Conditions Apply

deals

8 Day Central Australian Art CommunitiesFrom $2600 per person

Tour includes:

Visit eight remote Aboriginal Communities Visit Uluru, Kata Tjuta, Watarrka and camp on the Finke River. All camping equipment, park entry fees, admission costs and hotel transfers.

Departs 2009: 22May, 19Jun, 17Jul, 21Aug.

Phone 13 67 68 for more information

*Conditions Apply

4 Day Uluru Cultural Walk From $584 per person

Tour includes:

3 nights 4-star accommodation at Ayers Rock

3 hour Dot Painting Workshop Uluru Base Walk including guided walk, sunrise and picnic breakfast

FREE RETURN AIRPORT TRANSFERS

Departs Daily

Phone 13 67 68 for more information

*Conditions Apply

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diary

26Aurora Kakadu Klash

The Aurora Kakadu Klash is the only fishing competition held in World Heritage-listed Kakadu National Park, which is rich with many species including Barramundi. Fishing takes place on the South Alligator River and is conducted on a catch, photograph and release basis. The competition is only open to 35 boats, at the request of the traditional owners of Kakadu National Park.

Tel: 08 8979 0166

April

12Alice Springs Cup Carnival

Don’t miss the action of this exciting four-race-day program, held over three-weeks. Young Guns Day is a highlight, when revellers mix it up in the party marquee with live music, games and prizes.

Tel: 08 8952 4977

18Alice Springs Heritage Festival

Discover the lifestyles and developments that have characterised the last century in this week-long celebration of local heritage. Films made in Central Australia during the ‘30s, ‘40s and ‘50s show how people once lived in these isolated but beautiful settings.

Tel: 08 8952 4516

25Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, Darwin

Boasting cuisine from every continent, the markets are a great place to enjoy a picnic on the beach while indulging in the tropical sunset. Street theatre and musicians complement the eclectic stalls of local clothing designers, jewellers and artists, masseurs, tarot readers and leatherworkers. The charged atmosphere makes this a Darwin experience not to be missed. Thursday and Sunday evenings.

Tel: 08 8981 3454

www.mindil.com.au

March

22Tiwi Islands AFL Grand Final and Art Sale, Bathurst Island

Combining two of the islanders’ great loves, this massive gathering provides a rare opportunity to visit Bathurst Island without a permit. The sale begins at 8am Sunday and concludes at 2pm, when the football begins.

www.tiwiart.com