york on a fork 2

1Issue Two • March – June 2015 • yorkonafork.com

2

The Menu

5: Editorial

11. Seasonal selection

34. Byron Burger

6: York Food Festival

24. Goldsborough Hall

36. Stanley & Ramona

9. Edible York

28. Bistro Guy

VINCENT’S

COFFEE

At Vincent’s Coffee we are committed to ethical, sustainable coffee with no compromise on quality.

Our three blends offer a variety of subtle, carefully constructed flavours to suit any palate.

Great coffee, responsibly.

Shop online: VincentsCoffee.com

For advertising enquiries email Ben, [email protected].

Tel Simon: 01653 628927 07717 767567

Dripping taps to fitting kitchens. Shelving to new window installation.

Ceramic tiling to roof repairs. Paper hanging to hanging doors.

Time served tradesman with 30 years experience. Advanced City and Guilds.

Bespoke Furniture & Homeware

homewardcreative.co.uk 07738 272389

[email protected]

One of the best beer specialists in the country.

Innovative range of fine wines.

Artisan cheeses and ciders.

Rick Stein Food Hero.

28 Sandringham Street, Fishergate, York.

yorkbeerandwineshop.co.ukMonday & Sunday 6pm -10pm. Tuesday to Friday 11am -10pm.

Saturday 10am -10pm.

01904 647136 [email protected]

10: Marketplace

30. Veeno

18. Holgate Windmill

Tap on an image to jump to its feature.

22. Film: Chef

3

38. Le Langhe 40: The Whippet Inn

42. Walmgate Arms

50. The Slip Inn

56. Rhubarb Cobbler

43: Cake Club.

51. The Fossgate Social

58. The Kitchen

48. PubCo Reform

52. Brooklyn Blast

59. The Cake Tragedy of Leeman Road

54. Sausage Stew

4

George Street, York.

An unspoilt, independently-run, little pub in the historic city of York.

The Phoenix Inn @phoenixinnyork

Jazz Nights · Bar Billiards · Real Ales · Fine Wines

phoenixinnyork.co.uk

THE

PHOENIXINN

Editorial: A Second Serving.It’s been a hugely exciting few months for York on a Fork since we published issue one in December. Laying aside the usual Christmas revelry and debate about where to get the best bread sauce (Aldi or M&S), we’ve been overwhelmed with the feedback from local businesses and new friends. Everyone involved in this endeavour is passionate about York, food, independent business and the culture created by those things, so it’s been a real honour to be able to make a positive contribution to getting the word out about some of our favourite York foodie establishments.

This time out we’ve got news of a top secret cake club, some reflections on a foodie film, a visit to a stately home, an analysis of the recent pub tie legislation change and the usual selection of reviews and recipes. As we approach spring, we’re also starting to turn our attention to the 2015 staging of our beloved Food Festival and waiting anxiously for the evenings to warm enough for a beer garden visit.

Over the next few months, we’ll be out and about testing our appetites against York’s eateries as usual and scheming up plans for coming issues. If you’ve any thoughts on places we should visit then please don’t hesitate to get in touch, or if you own a business then bear in mind we can now offer advertising opportunities, including design, at extremely reasonable rates. Get in touch any time for more info.

We weren’t entirely sure what the reception would be for the first issue of the e-zine so there was always going to be a ‘toe in water’ element to that edition but, having been fired up by the enthusiastic reaction, this will now become a regular feature in our fair city. We’ll put out a new edition quarterly online for the moment while we explore in more detail the feasibility of getting a printed edition out there - something we’d love to do!

Ben ThorpeEditor.

Ben — Editor Beth — Deputy Editor Grace — Art Director

5

7

York Food FestivalTaster Event 6˜7 June 2O15

York Food and Drink Festival is back for 2015 with the theme ‘Food in words and pictures.’ The main event will take place in September, as usual, but a smaller ‘Taster’ event will also take place in June. The ‘taster’ event will whet your appetite for what’s to come with chef demonstrations, the festival ‘sampling stand’, street side bars and the launch of the Food in Words and Pictures theme. The September Festival will offer day and evening events from wine tastings, talks and food tastings to cookery demonstrations and hands on workshops in some of the city’s iconic historic buildings. There will be special restaurant offers and menus, as well as the chance to sample an eclectic mix of foods from Yorkshire and around the world. The 2015 theme Food in Words and Pictures will include; an online cookery book, an edible hat, a food photography competition and recreations of historic York recipes. This year’s York Festival of Food and Drink is on 18 - 27 September 2015.

9

York is packed with interesting little nooks and crannies. Nosing around the centre of town, you can find all manner of cut-throughs, snickleways and shortcuts. Secluded riverside spots and hidden church yards lurk all around, waiting to hold you to their breast away from the stag and hen parties that roam our city at the weekend. Doing fantastic things with some of these spaces are Edible York, whose mission to make our city more beautiful and offer its residents more skills has been growing and gathering pace over the last six years.

Even if you’ve not realised it, you’ve probably seen the fruits of their labours in our city’s public spaces. One of the most visible contributions Edible York makes to the city is their public vegetable beds, which can be seen outside the Barbican, Heron Foods and on Peasholme green. Members of the local community can help themselves to the produce from these beds, hopefully realising at the same time how easy it can be to replicate something like this domestically. That’s only the tip of the iceberg though. 199 fruit trees have been planted in schools and communities around York and regular produce swapping sessions are just a couple of the initiatives that you can read more about on edibleyork.org.uk. There’re lots of ways to help out and there’s still lots to do so why not get in touch to see what you can do, even if you can only spare a little time. If all this sounds exciting to you (and let’s be clear, it should) then check out the edible map of York to see how you can be interacting with our environment… I’m off to look for the wild garlic that’s not too far from me!

Edible YorkWords: Ben Thorpe

10

VINCENT’S

COFFEE

At Vincent’s Coffee we are committed to ethical, sustainable coffee with no compromise on quality.

Our three blends offer a variety of subtle, carefully constructed flavours to suit any palate.

Great coffee, responsibly.

Shop online: VincentsCoffee.com

For advertising enquiries email Ben, [email protected].

Tel Simon: 01653 628927 07717 767567

Dripping taps to fitting kitchens. Shelving to new window installation.

Ceramic tiling to roof repairs. Paper hanging to hanging doors.

Time served tradesman with 30 years experience. Advanced City and Guilds.

Bespoke Furniture & Homeware

homewardcreative.co.uk 07738 272389

[email protected]

One of the best beer specialists in the country.

Innovative range of fine wines.

Artisan cheeses and ciders.

Rick Stein Food Hero.

28 Sandringham Street, Fishergate, York.

yorkbeerandwineshop.co.ukMonday & Sunday 6pm -10pm. Tuesday to Friday 11am -10pm.

Saturday 10am -10pm.

01904 647136 [email protected]

What you should be eating now…A photographic guide to some seasonal treats for this spring. Get ‘em at their best.

Photography by Diana Taliun, Jakub Gojda, Lukas Gojda and Margouillat.

11

MARCHMUSSELS+BLOOD ORANGE

12

MARCHMUSSELS+BLOOD ORANGE

13

APRILSARDINES+MOREL

14

APRILSARDINES+MOREL

15

16

MAYLAMB+RADISH

MAYLAMB+RADISH

17

19

Holgate Windmill sits perched atop one of the few prominent hills in York. Now surrounded by houses, when built in 1770 this area would have been recognisably rural, with the city of York and its imposing Minster visible over a mile away. Mills were a vital part of a pre-industrialised society, as usually the local populace would bring their grain to the mill in order to obtain flour for bread, a staple part of the peasant diet. This also meant that a miller was in a considerable position of power, as he could charge what he wished for a very essential service. Millers were consequently often suspected of fudging the weights and measurements - giving back less than they received. The rise in discontent against the millers was particularly high during the late medieval period (this is the bit where I geek out, I specialised in medieval history after all!) Attempts were made by medieval authorities to tackle the use of false weights and measures to supply reduced quantities of goods such as flour. This was especially acute during the great agrarian crisis of 1314-22, where around 10% of the population starved to death due to multiple years of crop failure.

Though I have been living in York since 2010, we have just recently moved to a new part of the city. This has provided the much needed impetus to explore new areas and uncover different pubs, restaurants and parts of the city. One big discovery has been that we live just over a mile from a working windmill! As a lover of local food and all things historical, I had to go and check it out.

Holgate WindmillWindmill Rise, York.Words: Beth Vincent.

20

Working windmills such as this are rare nowadays, with many being left derelict, torn town or even turned into homes. However this unique York feature was luckily saved from such a fate by the Holgate Windmill Preservation Society and after over a decade of renovation, is now firmly in working order, producing traditionally stone ground flour from Yorkshire wheat. The society often takes part in open days, including the York Residents’ Festival, meaning that the general public can come and gain an insight into how this once integral part of the local economy functioned. The mill is very obviously wind powered, with a rare five double shuttered sail configurement. Visitors are able to climb up some rather steep steps in order to view the three production floors and fair wind permitting, watch the massive brake wheel turning and in turn the mill stones grinding. The resulting flour can actually be found on sale downstairs in the visitor welcome area, along with lots of postcards/cards featuring various contemporary and traditional images of the mill.

We decided to pick up a bag to try at home, because who can resist the idea of baking bread made flour ground just over a mile away from home. We were forewarned to expect quite a heavy, dense loaf and I did find that I needed to add more water than usual. The resulting bread was however quite wonderful, the texture was robust, yet also soft and yielding. The flour also has a depth and slight nuttiness to its flavour, making it perfect for savoury baking. Having tried a few loaves now, I have also found that has a far better rise than the bread I make with supermarket bought flour. Holgate Windmill is staffed by volunteers and open on Saturdays for flour sales, from 10am-12pm. Also if you pop over on a Friday morning, there is the chance that you might get to see the mill in action, safety permitting.

23

So why in the face of these negative reactions did I ever bother watching in the first place? Food! There are a few things in life I’m passionate about aside from the usual family, friends and a football team that consistently lets me down. They are films and food. Food is the only thing that fascinates me as much as film. We need food to survive - that’s unavoidable - but who wants to just survive? I want to live! So food isn’t subsistence; food is an event. Every meal should be something to look forward to. That’s why my wife shakes her head every time I suggest sandwiches for lunch. I don’t want two slices of bread and some cheese. No! I want different types of bread! I want at least four fillings and three or four sauces! That’s where Chef comes in - indulgences. Yes, they may be the indulgences of a character that I didn’t really have time for (Favreau’s Carl Casper has the propensity to be a bit of a jerk), but he’s surrounded by a supporting cast including Sofía Vergara, John Leguizamo, Scarlett Johansson, Oliver Platt, Bobby Cannavale and Emjay Antony, who all bring an energy and overwhelming niceness to the film. Chef shares its trump card with its lead character as the film truly shines when it becomes unabashed food porn. Once the food truck is on the road, no amount of

“look, I’m hip!” social media references and clunky plot devices will stop you from falling for Carl Casper’s Cuban creations. For anybody who loves food, this is without question one that will delight and inspire you to run to the nearest deli, stock up and take a running jump into cuisine that’s yet to really break these shores. Middle Eastern cuisine, Asian cuisine, North American excesses and Eastern European food have all found a happy home here, but South American dishes have never quite made their mark and it baffles me as to why. South American cuisine combines the brashness of North American food with the subtlety of Asian cooking and Chef will have you wanting to replicate the mouth-watering creations you see on screen. All of my reservations about Chef were fully justified and I can understand why you’d find it implausible (Sofía Vergara and Scarlett Johansson falling for you Jon!), but I found it a joy to watch. I’m of the opinion that there is a perfect time to watch any film and the perfect time to watch Chef is a midweek day off. I guarantee I can guess what you’ll be having for dinner that night: it’s the same thing as I’ll be having after writing this review.

Chef(or how the power of food porn made me forgive all).

Words by Marc Foster.

Marc Foster - @dudefozz is co-host of Dude and a Monkey Film Podcast dudeandamonkey.libsyn.com. Chief writer and editor of towatchpile.co.uk, Quizmaster at Picturehouse City Screen York and a freelance film writer.

When I first watched the trailer for the 2014 film Chef, I commented on the Dude and a Monkey podcast that there was no way I’d ever watch a movie which looked like Favreau trying to massage his own ego back to life after Marvell Studios allegedly dropped him from the third Iron Man film. I’ve previously had issues with Favreau as a film maker, finding him a passable if mildly unlikable screen presence, but a capable director and (to give him credit), a pretty decent writer.

GOLDSBOROUGH HALL

24

Words: Ben Thorpe

GOLDSBOROUGH HALL

25

Having abandoned our mouldy car far enough away from the frontage to avoid ruining the guests’ view, we promptly allowed a very friendly ginger cat in with us – this is someone’s home right, they might have pets? Saying hi to the manager, head chef and friendly staff, we deposited our coats and slumped into a leather sofa in front of a roaring fire with the drinks menu, as canapés and menus appeared promptly. Black pudding scotch egg with a central smear of tangy apple wasn’t nearly as substantial as the main ingredient would infer, while a generous shot glass of crayfish with marie rose sauce contrasted neatly against a prawn tempura with sweet chilli sauce. Test-driven with this were a glass of the Portugese house white and a G&T (Hendricks, with cucumber in case you were wondering) that were remarkably well-priced for such a prestigious venue. Choices made, we decamped through to the dining room, our friendly Transylvanian waiter doing the heavy lifting for us, and selected a table in the corner of this grand and welcoming space. Before long we were

politely presented with a choice of breads (sun blush tomato and olive and rosemary) providing excellent vehicles to absorb subsequent flavours. Next up was an amuse-bouche of Earl Grey tea-smoked duck curled around a crispy quail’s egg with carefully placed drops of beetroot puree. The duck was an utter delight, soft enough to melt in the mouth while the crispy egg gave a textural comparison after it had ejected its perfectly preserved yolk. I’d have been extremely happy with this as a starter: possibly the largest amuse-bouche I’ve ever been served. Still, hardly a point of complaint with such a well-realised dish. After a short pause, our Transylvanian chum arrived with starters of roast pumpkin, pine nut and sage tortellini with butternut squash veloute and sea trout with a visually-pleasing poppy seed tuile. The tortellini was as light as one would hope of a starter while the veloute smothered it with soft, luxurious flavours. Roast pumpkin didn’t set off the veloute as sharply as it might have done, but that stunning tortellini carried it off.

I’ve already recounted my impressions of Goldsborough Hall on the York on a Fork blog after attending the launch of their dining room a few weeks back so, on the basis of enjoying it, I was more than happy to go back when invited and sample that dining experience for myself. Given that I’ve already covered the splendid building elsewhere, I’m going to indulge myself here and talk solely about the food and the experience that delivered it rather than the wonderful building and environment.

26

As we shifted gear toward the mains, there was another interstitial flavour to take on board. A demi-tasse cup of rich tomato soup concealing a crispy mozzarella ball broke the flow of proceedings. While the flavours were there, that ball of cheese begged to be further crisped or more recently introduced to the soup. Nothing untoward, but perhaps not adding as much as it might to the experience. Time for mains and we welcomed to the table a chunk of beef with oxtail pudding, shallot puree, buttered kale and thyme jus. My companion was good enough to accede to my request for her to order curried monkfish in pancetta that was accompanied by potato gallete and mussel veloute. Everything came together wonderfully for this course.

It’s so easy to overpower fish with a curry sauce, more so to lose the contrast of a third flavour, that pancetta, so there’s every reason to trumpet this dish as a triumph. Another veloute sat alongside, mussel in this case, and the accompanying bed of paper thin potato slices balanced moisture and crisped textures perfectly. The beef was another triumph. Perhaps a little more predictable than the monkfish but very well executed, the oxtail-stuffed dumpling undoubtedly did the trick. If I were to be picky, I’d mention that the La Langhe beef I recently had was accompanied by a thicker, meatier jus, but then I’d have to concede you’d be playing service roulette at the same time, something you couldn’t accuse Goldsborough hall of.

27

After everything we’d enjoyed so far, I’ve no doubt that dessert would have been of the same high standard. I’m not sure if my lack of capacity by this point was a personal failing or a reflection of too large a serving. I still maintain that the mark of a truly stunning meal is the sense that a chef can provide almost infinite courses whilst still leaving you with the capacity for independent thought by the end of the evening. That said, I accept my appetite isn’t the largest, so I’d not be churlish to call that a criticism. My single justified complaint is a lack of espresso, not really appropriate for this sort of location. That said, I probably prefer this approach to trying to pass off some pod machine as real coffee.

At £55 for five courses and with a sensibly priced drinks menu, there’s very little to argue about. Excellent food, relaxing environs and good service tick all the boxes. With Mothers’ Day peeking over the horizon, afternoon tea here has to be high on the list if you’re not inclined toward spending money on fine dining. If you’re happy to put a bit of money into a nice meal, then this a wonderful destination, with the bonus of stunning rooms should one wish to side step the drive home. Oh, and apparently that ginger cat wasn’t welcome and was ejected the following morning when located asleep on top of a radiator!

The food scene along Gillygate is particularly vibrant, with some of my personal favourite haunts – Café 68, Love Cheese and the excellent delicatessen, Tarts and Titbits. This is definitely an area which attracts those interested in high quality local food from independent businesses. Bistro Guy, formerly known as Ambience, is another great addition to this thriving street. Now rebranded, the establishment offers a the dual experience of operating as a café by day and bistro by night, all alongwith a beautiful garden space which backs onto the medieval city walls. I first heard of Bistro Guy through word of mouth, which is always a very encouraging sign when looking for somewhere new to try. Customer recommendations are the lifeblood of any small business, which means that they must work hard to impress and ensure

repeat custom. My friend certainly sang the praises of the coffee and cake she had enjoyed in the hidden garden at the back of the café. With the lure of garden and great food firmly in mind, I decided go along and check out Bistro Guy for myself. I was met with a warm welcome from the owner, Guy (hence Bistro Guy!) who was kind enough to take some time out from his kitchen prep to speak to me about his approach to running a Bistro/Café. Guy’s drive to diversify the offering into themed nights and live music really stood out to be as being one of the strengths of Bistro Guy. He is also obviously passionate about using making the most of his previous experience and links with local suppliers. The focus on local and seasonal produce is one of the real lures for diners, especially as the menu is constantly changing to reflect the best of what is currently available.

Bistro GuyGillygate, York.Along with Bishopthorpe Road and Fossgate, Gillygate is a strong contender for York’s best independent street. There is a wide variety of shops to browse, from the eccentric Snowhome, to the excellent vintage store, Dog and Bone.

Words: Beth Vincent.

28

Click here to listen to Beth’s interview with Bistro Guy.

30

IN

Words: Ben Thorpe.

31

32

York’s superb pub scene is well-documented (apocryphal reports of there being 365 pubs aside) and diverse. We’ve seen some great new entrants to the scene and have many historic inns to enjoy, but what would be wonderful to see in York is that stereotypically ‘European’ cafe culture that’s so hard for us drunkard Brits to get a handle on. Newer establishments such as the Fossgate Social and Attic are making good inroads already, but now we’ve a new spot to swing past and look all metropolitan in after work on a Friday (tip - unbutton your top shirt button on the way in and stow your tie).

The family vineyard.

33

Veeno has launched successful branches already in Leeds and Manchester and now lands in our fair city, taking over a spot on Piccadilly that used to house an off licence. A family business importing wine from Sicily and dishing up small dishes of ‘Spuntini’, this has the potential to extend York’s horizons a touch. Big plans are in place for expansion, but for the moment let’s consider the impact on a rather more local basis. It’s pretty clear from the smell of fresh paint that Veeno has only recently opened. I popped in on opening night and again for a complimentary evening (Disclosure - they gave me free wine, cheese and meats). Opening night was well attended and surprisingly organised after the amount of work suggested by my earlier stroll past, so we spent a happy hour deciphering the menu and tasting the wines. Calling in last night, I was able to sit down with a friend for a more detailed look over.There’s a bit of a gap between the claim of being an Italian wine cafe and the actual offering. I was surprised there was no chianti, montepulciano or other popular Italian wines on offer until the penny dropped that everything was from the aforementioned Sicilians. Exhaustive testing of the cabernet sauvignon and mid range nero d’avolo showed quality in the reds while a test of the grillo found a good white option. Appetisers of sheep cheese and salami whet our appetites before moving onto a larger tasting platter.

Choosing the Bel Paese platter (usually £15), we were presented with a range of smoked cheese, grissini, mozzarella, cured meats, gorgonzola and bread. Curiously, the wine I spilled across this lot served to do nothing untoward to the flavours. There’s little necessary to say about the selection, good quality meats and cheeses with a few chunks of nice bread really speak for themselves. The chunks of parmingiano reggiano clung to by encouragingly viscous balsamic were a particularly encouraging combination.A good chat with the proprietor convinced me of the owner’s passion for their product and the desire to get quality family products into the UK market was clearly apparent. It’s worth being explicit that this isn’t a place to come for a meal. Yes, you can leave without needing something further to eat, but you won’t be squeezing out of the door on the back of many courses.A few tweaks would help to perfect the experience: table service would be nice and the lighting needs a bit of work for mood. A clearer message about the Sicilianassociations wouldn’t hurt too but Veeno is a great addition to York. Nitpicking aside, decent wine at good prices along with good quality snacks. For example, a glass of wine plus a panini comes in at under a fiver at lunchtime. Nothing to argue with there. I’ll be back.

34

Then I had a (admittedly extremely) minor crisis of faith about the whole endeavour. Should I really give credence to any chains? If the whole point of this is to be about York, then surely I should make every effort to stick to York’s independents? But does that needlessly remove a load of potentially good places to eat when I’m making a point of being open minded? And what’s a chain? When does it move from a enterprising individual to become a evil empire? By that token I need to wish the worst upon budding local chains such as Market Town Taverns, and should I by extension wish the worst on The Perky Peacocks expansion? Laying my crisis of faith to one side for the moment, one certainty was that I was hungry. Accompanied by a pint of Theakston’s Lightfoot from the Blue Boar, my friend and I made it round the corner to check things out. Having dined there before, my friend was quick to lay down ground rules, primarily “one portion of courgette fries isn’t enough”.

Flicking through the literature liberally festooned on the table, I got my head round the ethos of the place. One thing, done well. Beef patties made on the premises daily. Good bread. Can’t argue with that. Complemented with a surprising craft beer choice things look good in the artfully distressed surround. Immediately dismissing thoughts of varied orders for the sake of this review, two Byron burgers were ordered along with sides of courgette fries and macaroni cheese. Food arrived briskly with a minimal intrusion to try and foist olives on us and was beyond reproach. Burgers are presented medium (rather than well done) as standard and the consistency benefits the dish hugely. It’s a relief to see medium mean exactly that and presented as a default. Generally I’d order beef rare to make sure it was at least slightly bloody so to see beef described and served as medium makes a refreshing change.

Byron BurgerHigh Ousegate, York.

How local is a Byron burger? This article originated as not a lot more than an impulse to eat a burger, tempered by a desire to try somewhere new for the sake of this magazine. I also realised it’d be easy to throw in a load of semi-political George Osborne jokes too, easy decision then.

Words: Ben Thorpe.

35

My dining companion was certainly on the money regarding the courgette fries. Well judged crispy batter gives way to courgettes moist flavour. The macaroni cheese was a slightly more qualified success. The pasta was still firm, it wasn’t over salted, there was a nice topping of grilled cheese…but is cheese and pasta really an appropriate accompaniment to bread and meat? Yes, I ordered it, but they put it on the menu and I largely insisted on it being ordered out of curiosity. On that point, apologies Tony for doing you out of further courgette fries! So I’ve no quibbles about the atmosphere, the service was pleasant if not a great deal more than functional and the food was without compromise, living up to the promise of “one thing, done well”. On a purely objective basis I heartily recommend it but we come back to my original point. It’s not my place to dictate the morality of a meal, indeed I’ve no idea of the things that

might dissuade you from a chain like this (this is about food, not finance) but I can’t help but feel that I should direct people back to a York native. Saying that, I don’t know who it’d be. The rest of the burgers I’ve had in York from ‘locals’ (are Brigantes and City Screen ‘local’?) have been a little over seasoned, while I guess I’m picking hairs here it reinforces my point that we can think of some chains as ‘local’ while we shout down other chains as a result of their success. There’s almost certainly a salient point to address about the economy and how we get distracted by the chancellor eating a burger for a tenner (really? We care about someone spending ten pounds? In London? Does anyone really believe this is a low point for Gideon?) But my final point is that it’s a good burger. I liked it a lot and will be back, though I’d rather give the cash to a local striving to make a place in the market.

36

This wonderful couple run the tiny Stanley & Ramona on York’s Bishopthorpe Road. (Yes, that’s the street that’s oh so hip, as the locals will tell you. Ignore the hype and go anyway – it’s very nice.) There’s just enough space to squeeze around four seated visitors inside, and six outside. Mostly, it deals in takeaway trade, which is booming. That’s thanks, by and large, to charm. The charming gluten-free menu (yes, yes, yes… gluten free can be delicious). The charming cuckoo clock. The charming staff who natter with ease with the regulars. The brilliantly designed decor (loving those yellows and greys). The funny chalk-board notices. A bit like The Window in Norwich, it may be small, but it’s got heart.

Stanley & ramona\Bishopthorpe Road, York.Words: Tom Hiskey.

COSY COFFEE SHOPS

Lee and Lucy (neither a Stanley nor Ramona in sight), are an odd sort of double act. Lee’s the dry, sardonic one; Lucy’s the warm, smiling one. A sort of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, if Butch pulled a mean espresso and Sundance made the ultimate chocolate brownies.

37

And – lo and behold – the coffee’s excellent too. Starting with beans from York Coffee Emporium when S&R opened for business a year ago, Lee & Lucy have since made the step up to Origin, a terrific Cornwall-based roastery which we visited some time back. As a regular visitor, I can attest to the coffee getting better and better with every visit, though it’s not yet the best in York. Lucky for us, S&R is our closest ‘proper’ coffee shop. It’s such a lovely little place that Mrs Cosy & I mentioned it while discussing the vague possibility of moving away from York. But how could we? We just love our Saturday walks to S&R / Bishy Rd too much. So, check out Stanley & Ramona. It’s not big, it’s not fancy. It’s just a little bundle of goodness that makes the day better. Even if Lee’s around*.

* Totally jokingcosycoffeeshops.co.uk

38

A large menu presents plenty of temptations, but I wanted to leave the decision in the kitchen’s hands, so went for the tasting menu for a conspicuously good value £23.50 for 4 courses and a glass of wine. For food of the standard I was expecting, that looked like a massive bargain, but there’s a worrying shadow over all this. I don’t think I’ve ever heard a moan about the food in Le Langhe, but stories of poor service are multitude and in truth are more responsible for my absence than a crappy two quid coffee. So it was with a small sense of trepidation that we were seated in a rather plain room after making our way through the delights of the delicatessen fronting the business.

Some fresh bread and grissini gave us something to nibble on while we waited for the first course of soup: a beautifully rich Girolles mushroom and truffle dish with flakes of parmesan. Our eyes met with the first spoonful and prompted exclamation. It was immediately clear that the reputation for good food is utterly deserved. The truffle flavours and cheese rested against the mushrooms beautifully, none of the elements overpowering the dish. Expectations for the subsequent courses knocked a hole in the roof as they shot up. Pasta was next up after a moderate pause and maintained the standard set. Vivid yellow ribbons of rich egg pasta with crab was fresh and nicely presented. Though the small

I admit I can hold a grudge for too long. Somewhere around seven years ago I had a really rubbish cup of coffee in Le Langhe along with terrible service so naturally I’ve refused to go back since. Perhaps I’m softening in my old age but the recent award of a Bib Gourmand (awarded for establishments providing a good meal under £28/head) and some good reports tempted me back.

Wearing a bibLe Langhe, Peasholme Green, York. Words: Ben Thorpe.

39

cubes of potato contributed very little, they didn’t detract from the delicate crab textures.. The meat course that followed was another star, braised ox cheek in a reduction so beautifully sticky and full of flavour that it seemed scarcely feasible. The rich meat was slow cooked to perfection and adorned with rosemary sprigs so exaggeratedly green and fragrant as to be scarcely believable. Served with a potato dauphinoise that didn’t overreach itself with richness the dish was another triumph. We rounded out the meal with a cheese plate and a dessert to share. The cheese initially looked a bit stingy but turned out to be strong enough that larger portions would be impossible to eat. Soft blue cheeses were wonderful but the harder cheeses were fairly overpowering, one of which gave out a strong truffle flavour at the expense of subtlety. The dessert course presented was a tart of either apple or pear. I really don’t go in for sweets but it’s reported that this was a relatively average dessert on a slightly hard base, Comparison with the earlier dishes maybe driving criticism. The cost of all this? Sixty quid including a tip. Frankly for food of this standard that’s dirt cheap.

Immediately Le Langhe is lodged in my head as one of the best places to eat in York, more so given the price. I should prove my objectivity by finding a few criticisms I suppose. The chairs weren’t massively comfy and the waiter mumbled a bit leading to the apple/pear uncertainty. The wine was included in the price was a touch anonymous too. The fear of poor service turned out to be unfounded fortunately, though given the reports I’ve heard I can’t vouch that this will be the case for every meal but I can say that I now don’t care. Frankly for food this good they can throw it at me from the kitchen.

41

Previous visits have revealed good beef, irritating pump clips and rude wallpaper so when I was meeting a couple of friends for lunch last week, I had a perfect opportunity to get back and see how things had progressed. The Whippet Inn is a steak restaurant and bar, though if truth be told, not the first pick for a quiet pint given the bar’s size and multitude of local alternatives. Those steaks though… my only previous visit to eat was superb. An object lesson in upselling, the amount I spent on my main was at least 40% more than originally intended, but entirely worth it. Well-aged, succulent, flavoursome and genuinely rare (but not blue); superb steak. How have things changed in the last 18 months though? I didn’t bother booking a table for my return visit and got seated straight away on a Tuesday lunch time with a couple of friends. Maybe worth mentioning that I noticed a large (presumed) Christmas party group in the separate dining room as I entered. The waiter’s appearance lasted only slightly longer than my intentions to order from the cheaper lunch time menu. 40-day dry-aged steak that has been properly rested (pre- and post-cooking) is a difficult proposition to turn down. I went for the rib eye and my friend plumped for the fillet for an extra five pounds. The third member of the party went for duck breast, giving us a bit of variety.

Unlike so many other places, the tap water I’d requested actually appeared as expected. (Yes, I know it’s not going to be profitable, but it’s water and I’m not paying stupid amounts.) The waiter struck a good balance between salesmanship and description. Despite not bothering with starters, we seemed to have a significant wait on our hands. I guess something to do with that large Christmas party, but we waited circa 45 minutes for our food. When they turned up, the steaks lived entirely up to expectations. It’s largely the fault of Cafe No 8 and their steak cooking tuition that I don’t order steaks in restaurants these days for fear of disappointment. Luckily, that wasn’t the case here. Retaining their moisture but well-charred at the extremities, the steaks were tremendous with even the difference between my “rare” and companion’s “medium rare” being apparent to the naked eye. The potato dauphinoise and sweet potato mash we’d respectively chosen to accompany our slabs of meat did all that was required while not emblazoning themselves on the memory and the seared tomato accompaniment was a decently sharp companion, if a little redundant in the face of chunks of meat. Coffees followed along with the bill, which was not a terrible thing to face. Working out at under thirty quid a head each sounds a fair wedge but factoring in a glass of decent red and a dessert between three, it wasn’t unreasonable for the quality on offer. I suppose it’s now my duty to head back to El Gaucho, strictly in the name of duty of course.

Raising the steaksThe Whippet Inn, North Street, York.

For years the only reliable place in York to get a great steak was El Gaucho on Walmgate. For no particular reason, I’ve fallen out of the habit of going there (for the record, ribeye - rare) but I have managed to get myself to the Whippet Inn. Seemingly operating on a revolving door policy for owners for a few years, its identity as a steak house is well bedded in now and of some repute.

Words: Ben Thorpe.

42

After reviewing the Walmgate Ale House I had to return to eat in the upstairs Bistro in my search for York's Best Sunday Lunch.

What's on offer?Traditional Roast: Slow Roast Yorkshire Beef or Pork, Yorkshire Pudding, Roast Potatoes & Vegetables. (Meat from Taste Tradition, Thirsk). The Sunday Lunch is served between 12:00 and 19:00 as part of the set menu which is £13 for one or two courses and £15.50 for three. We both went for the Roast Beef as a main course and then ordered a Sticky Toffee Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream, and a Selection of Yorkshire Cheeses for desert.

What worked?The meat was absolutely stunning; perfectly cooked chunks of beef browned on the outside and pink in the centre and still piping hot throughout, wonderful. I would have eaten just a plate-full of the beef and gone home happy, I think it should be a menu option. The Yorkshire Puddings were far and away the best I've found in York. Large fluffy bases with a just-crisp top, full of flavour and deep enough to fill with gravy. I love it when you get gravy in a jug on the side, everyone wants a different amount and being able to decide for yourself is a huge bonus. On this occasion the gravy was delicious and I enjoyed topping up my plate every time I went back for extra portions of the side dishes.

What didn't work?The only real issue I had with the whole meal was that for the purposes of this website I'm trying to find the best Pub Sunday Lunch in York and the Bistro is a full-time restaurant. The split between the upstairs and downstairs is noticeable and unavoidable. An issue that arises from this is that the Sunday Lunch ends up feeling like an item on restaurant menu and not a dedicated full roast; the veg on the side are delicately cooked pieces of kale and tender carrot, not hearty chunks of roast parsnip and crunchy potatoes. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with the food, it's fantastic, it's just not what I was looking for in a pub lunch.

Is it York's Best Sunday Lunch?I can heartily recommend the Walmgate Ale House & Bistro's Sunday Lunch as one of the tastiest I've had, but I'm looking for something in a more traditional pub setting where I can sit at one table, get a couple of pints in, then have a meal at the same table and stay as long as we like. Even having it brought to my table in the downstairs bar might have tipped it over the line and crowned it York's Best Sunday Lunch. If you're not fussed by this then get your table booked now, the food really is fantastic. I think it will remain top of the table for quite some time and who knows, If I can't find that perfect plate, this might just be the next best thing and end up the winner.

Sunday Lunch at the Walmgate Ale House

Words: The PuboholicWalmgate, York.

CLANDESTINE Cake Club

Waggon and Horses, Lawrence Street, York.

43

Words: Ben Thorpe and Beth Vincent.

44

York’s Clandestine Cake Club meets on the second Wednesday of the month to offer cake-mad individuals the chance to get together and compare notes, share their creations and show off their skills while making friends. Boasting around a hundred members, its popularity speaks volumes about both the popularity of cake and the enthusiasm of York’s food lovers. I’ve no experience of baking and have to admit I didn’t fancy presenting an inaugural attempt to a bunch of self-confessed bakeoholics, so I turned up to the top secret venue with a cunning plan: turn up five minutes late and surreptitiously watch proceedings from the door. I made sure all bases were covered by arranging the presence of another contributor who would be a more active participant. You can read her thoughts The Waggon and Horses on Lawrence Street is now well known to the city’s beer lovers and bar billiards players, providing high quality action on both of those fronts, but the increasingly surefooted management is always looking for new possibilities, so finding out this was the venue for this clandestine venture wasn’t a shock. About 20 people turned up with their creations in tow, some impressively intact after being subjected to

bicycle carrying, and packed themselves in a snug room ready to get slicing and chatting. Friendly ringmaster Rebecca D’Agostino got proceedings underway by introducing the evening and passing the floor between attendees, making sure everyone got the chance to present and explain their creation. This was an extremely polite gathering, with very little in the way of interrupting, with the smallest hint of friendly competition. Each cake was treated with respect and its baker willing to share their secrets in response to questions. After everybody was given their chance to discuss their wares, there was the opportunity for sampling and a stab at cake and beer pairing with the Titanic Plum Porter, Batemans Hazelnut Brownie and Batemans Mocha Amaretto. Perhaps one day the baking bug will bite and I’ll be back, but for the moment I’ll be happy to hear from my colleague how this club goes from strength to strength at future meetings. As for figuring out what the rules are? “Take a cake, talk about the cake, be nice to people and eat cakes” seems to cover it. The next meeting will be Wednesday 11th February at a top secret venue even closer to the city walls than this one. I can’t imagine

The first rule of cake club is…eat cake? Bake cakes? Share cakes? Who knows…and how much does it matter? Now I come to think of it I’m not at all sure if there are any rules. Still, it’s always nice to make an easy reference to popular culture isn’t it?

46

why you won’t there if you love baking. York on a Fork’s Deputy Editor Bethan Vincent also attended in a far more participatory role.

Beth’s view:One of the overwhelming memories of visiting my grandparents as a child concerns gorging on my grandmother’s wonderful chocolate cake, which had the richest and most buttery filling one can imagine. Many years later, I am still unable to recreate this exact recipe. However her introduction to the world of home baking instilled in me a deep love for homemade cake. The popularity of shows such as the Great British Bake Off further evidence that I am not alone…home baking has undergone a serious renaissance in recent years! Up until recently, my amateur creations have been confined to my home, or a very few (un)lucky friends. However this all changed when I came across the Clandestine Cake Club via Twitter and decided to find my local event. The club in York is held once every month in a different location, including pubs and cafés. This is great, because I have been able to experience local establishments which otherwise were pretty much off my agenda. The standard is usually very high, though not daunting! All abilities are welcome and certainly do not feel out of place; I wouldn’t describe myself as a particularly amazing baker by any means. The emphasis is purely on enjoying cake and sharing any useful baking tips/recipes. I want to leave you with the thought - what is there not to like about a club where you meet to eat and talk about cake? That’s right, nothing.

47

�ight Ethics

EnvironmentTaxHR Supply Chain

Find out what Bright Ethics can do for you: email: [email protected]

twitter: @brightethics

brightethics.com

Ethical Accreditation for UK Organisations

Consumer interest in ethical business practice has never been greater. The public are turning towards organisations they can

count on to be acting responsibly.

At Bright Ethics we believe both businesses and consumers can benefit from higher ethical standards in business. We work with all sizes of organisation in both the public and private sectors to help

maximise the benefits of an ethical approach to policy.

Our accreditation covers the four key areas below, allowing an organisation to make clear, verifiable statements about its ethical

credentials and the values behind its actions.

49

Campaigners believed these changes didn’t go far enough to help tenants of the big PubCo companies and Liberal Democrat MP for Leeds North West Greg Mulholland tabled an amendment to the bill that tightened controls on the PubCos and would free up the tenants. MPs voted for the amendment by a majority of 25, including members of government defying the three line whip that had been issued by Michael Gove.

What does it mean?Traditionally a beer tie for a pub could be a good thing, essentially the cost of entry for the tenant would be low and the rent would be kept artificially low, in return the pub would only be able to sell beer bought from the PubCo who would add on a percentage to regain their losses from the rent. Unfortunately as the PubCos massive debts forced them to squeeze every last drop of income out of their assets, many of the successful pubs in their portfolios were seeing their rents skyrocket to unaffordable levels during rent reviews and the price of their beer could be double what the pub could purchase it for on the open market forcing many publicans at seemingly successful pubs out of business. The new Market Rent Option in the Small Business, Enterprise and Employment Bill has a twofold effect;

• The tenant can ask to pay a fair rent at the market rate• This will then break any beer tie, allowing the pub to source its beer from the open market.

This won’t all happen straight away, it is triggered at certain points for example at the rent review (usually every 5 years) or if market conditions change (a new Wetherspoons pub opens up next door) or the freehold is sold.

Is there a downside?As I see it there is a possibility that this will make the PubCo model fail as they lose some of the control over their income, forcing them to sell large numbers of pubs in a fire sale that ultimately means even more pub closures.This is made more likely by the lack of planning control to convert a pub into a s =hop. New legislation is needed to require planning permission to convert a pub into anything else before I’d feel comfortable that this wasn’t a real possibility. Secondly, a Market Rent is the amount a freeholder could get for the pub in the open market taking into account all the factors e.g. the pub’s size, location, competitors etc. Not all beer ties are a bad thing and there are some pubs where the rent would be unaffordable at the market level so a beer tie and reduced rents would actually be the best model. Accepting a beer tie for lower rents will still be an available option if the tenant and the PubCo agree on it as the Market Rent Option is, of course, just an option, but under the amendment to the bill will now be a mandatory option for the PubCo to provide so I don’t really see this as a problem.

What’s the upside?More choice for the consumer. As the beer ties are broken pubs will have chance to bring in more local guest beers, hold more beer festivals, and provide what customers want. Fewer pubs forced out of business. This is not to say that pubs won’t close down, they will, but publicans will now be able to negotiate the terms of their contract knowing that they have more options and will be less restricted in how they run their business.

More, better pubs? We can hope.Overall I see this as a historic moment for the British Pub Industry and personally see it as a huge step in the right direction. I hope I’m right.

PubCo Reform What Just Happened?

Words: The Puboholic. Illustration: James Osborn.

MPs have been debating the details of a new bill in parliament called the Small Business, Enterprise and Employment Bill. The bill is wide ranging and includes details such as measures to help small and medium businesses, guidelines for public sector procurement, and crucially a section titled ‘The Pubs Code Adjudicator and the Pubs Code.’ These are the headline points of the original proposal for the pubs section of the bill.

50

What’s it good for?Beer festivals with live music, sport on TV.

Where is it?While the recent successes of Bishy Road are well documented, the upswing extends far beyond the run of shops on Bishopthorpe Road and encompasses much of South Bank, Clementhorpe and Bishophill. At the heart of these communities are a few pubs with The Golden Ball, The Swan and The Slip Inn the obvious trio that shine out. I live in this area of town so count The Slip Inn as a local which will affect my judgement and create a bias towards a place, but it also means I’ve seen the effort that’s gone into creating a wonderful Good Beer Guide worthy pub from what was a deserted, lost pub a few years ago.

What’s it all about?The Slip Inn has a simple philosophy, mix good beer with friendly staff and a comfortable family friendly environment and you’ll end up with a great pub. The sign outside says “always a warm and friendly welcome” which I can confirm is very accurate. It’s very rare that you’ll find The Slip Inn empty. Weekdays draw in a mix of regulars who fill the bar area after work, Friday and Saturday draw in the locals who don’t want to brave a weekend night in the city centre, and Sundays draw in the sport lovers to watch whatever is on that weekend. One thing that really stands out is when a beer festival is on. A large heated marquee is erected in the garden, a second bar opens up in the outside buildings, the BBQ is sparked up and local musicians plug in and play all day. I don’t think you’ll find a better beer festival in York.

What’s on the bar?The ever popular Leeds Pale heads up the bar at The Slip Inn alongside Timothy Taylor - Boltmaker, Rudgate - Ruby Mild and Wold Top - Wold Gold, and a guest. If you pop in during the week after a festival you can usually pick up a pint or two of some of the festival ales as well. Becks Vier, Leeds Leodis, Guinness and Thatcher’s Gold are on draught, and there is usually a bottle or two of prosecco in the fridge.

Do they serve food?There is no hot food available, there are crisps, pickled eggs, and a selection of pork pies and scotch eggs available at the bar.

Is it accessible / allow kids / dogs?There are no steps to the bar, but no accessible toilet. Kids are very welcome at The Slip Inn, there is a pot of crayons and colouring books in the corner. I’ve been in there when dogs outnumber people.

Will you go again?Regularly. The beers, people, and atmosphere always draw me in.

Opening Hours.Mon - Thu 17:00 - 23:30Fri 17:00 - 00:00Sat 12:00 - 00:00Sun 12:00 - 23:00

TheSlip InnWords: The PuboholicClementhorpe, York.

51

What’s it good for?Pre-dinner drinks. Coffee, Cakes and beer.

Where is it?Fossgate is the obvious location if you want to build your cool new bar in the most diverse and expanding street in York. Fossgate has gone from strength to strength over the years with old school pubs like the Blue Bell, brand new offerings in The Hop, and the numerous multicultural restaurants dotted all the way down to Walmgate. Personally I would love to see Fossgate fully pedestrianised to complete its transformation.

What’s it all about?Fossgate Social is a slice of New York in old York. A bright red fixie bike adorns the exposed brick walls, the bar and furniture are built from reclaimed wood, and the drinks come in 2/3 pint schooners. To complete the transition across the pond Fossgate Social serves Brooklyn Lager and prides itself on exceptional coffee. The owners managed to turn a small yard into an outside room of TARDIS-like qualities, feeling bright and spacious. I can imagine getting a pitcher of one of the cocktails and sitting outside in summer would be glorious. The music was unobtrusive and drifted between ambient and indie, this combined with the dimmed lighting created a really friendly and very cosy atmosphere, although this was my first visit it felt like somewhere I already knew and settled in straight away.

What’s on the bar?Schooners of Brooklyn Lager, Camden Pale, Aspall’s Cider, and Thornbridge Jaipur are all available on draught.

Do they serve food?As well as the cakes, pork pies, and usual bar snacks there are a selection of paninis.

Is it accessible / allow kids / dogs?There is a small lip between the inside and the back yard but the rest of the bar is flat, with large toilets. As it’s a cafe during the day I can’t see kids being a problem but I’m unsure about dogs.

Will you go again?Yes, I can see this being a favourite spot of mine to grab a couple of drinks before moving on for a meal in Fossgate.

Opening Hours11:00 - 00:30.

TheFossgate social

Words: The Puboholic.Fossgate, York.

53

The first record of brewing in what is now New York City dates back to the early 15th century, with the establishment of a Dutch brewery in Lower Manhattan in 1413. By the end of the 19th century, when the borough of Brooklyn was annexed by the City of New York, it had 48 working breweries. In one region known as Brewers Row, eleven breweries occupied an area of twelve blocks. Many of these were established by German immigrants fleeing persecution, war and poverty in Europe. There was even a tied house system of sorts, though Prohibition put an end to that. As late as the early 1960s the city was producing around 10% of all the beer consumed in the United States. Rising land prices, and the cost of labour and transport brought about a rapid decline during the 1960s and early 1970s, much as occurred in the UK, and in 1976 the last two survivors, Schaeffer’s and Liebmann’s closed their doors for the final time, bringing an end to over five centuries of brewing in the city.

A new dawn broke in 1988 with the appearance of the Brooklyn Brewery, the brainchild of financier Tom Potter and journalist Steve Hindy. Using the original Schaeffer yeast culture, they quickly established a loyal customer base through the quality of their beers and their commitment to the local community. In 1994 they were joined by the talented and charismatic Garrett Oliver as head brewer, since when brewing volumes have reached 120,000 barrels a year.The latest addition to their portfolio to reach our shores is Brooklyn Blast, brewed using British Maris Otter and German Pilsener malts, and Kentish and American hops, and described on the label as a Double IPA. It weighs in at an impressive 8.4% abv.The colour is amber, and there is a slight haze in the glass and moderate creamy head which dissipates quickly to a wispy layer. On the nose it is earthy and resinous, with toasted nuts, some dried fruit, vanilla, citrus and a hint of mint. The flavour is very concentrated and full of tropical fruits, mango, melon, pineapple, apricot, but most prominently a big, bittersweet blast of grapefruit and orange marmalade with peppery notes and a counteracting, powerful earthy bitterness. The aftertaste is really hoppy, citric, spicy, tannic and dry, with, surprisingly, just a modest nod towards that high alcohol content.Well up to Brooklyn’s high standards.

Words: Jim Helsby. Brooklyn Blast: abv 8.4% £3.75 / 355ml

@yorkbeerwine

54

Method:

1. Heat the oil in a large frying pan until sizzling. Add the onion, pancetta, chorizo and sausage chunks and cook for about 10 minutes on a medium heat. 2. Lower the heat, add the chilli, garlic and brown sugar and cook for 10 minutes until everything is golden brown, whilst continually stirring to ensure even cooking.

3. Get ready your slow cooker or large casserole pan. After the above step is completed, move the contents of the frying pan over to your chosen cooking vessel.

4. Add the beans, chopped tomatoes, red wine, any veg, smoked paprika and seasoning. Give this all a good stir to make sure all the ingredients are evenly distributed.

5. Slow Cooker - cook for 4 hours on the high setting, 8 hours on low. Stir occasionally.

Oven - cook for 1.5 hours on 180ºC, stirring occasionally.

6. I served mine with a dollop of natural yogurt to balance the heat from the chilli and couscous.

Ingredients:

1 tbsp. rapeseed/vegetable oil1 tsp. brown sugar3 small / 2 medium sized chillies1 red onion, finely chopped3-4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped250g / 1 pack of pancetta100g chorizo, chopped to small chunks6 venison sausages / high quality pork sausages, chopped into chunks1 tin of red kidney beans*1 tin of cannellini beans*1 tin of butter beans*Any veg you wish chopped to bite-size chunks.3 tins of chopped tomatoes250ml red wine3 tsp. smoked paprika2 tsp. sea saltPepper to taste To serve (optional):1 tbsp. natural yogurt or crème fraicheA handful of chopped flat leaf parsleyCooked couscous or bulgur wheat

* These can be substituted with almost any combination of beans, so don’t worry about the exact varieties.

Words: Des Clarke.

During my childhood my family often holidayed in the Picos de Europa, a mountain range in the northern Spanish region of Cantabria. This recipe is a descendant of the local Cocido Montañés (mountain stew), a ubiquitous regional dish dating back to the 17th century. It was originally used as a winter warmer but has since become an all-year-round staple. We have been trying to reconstruct it ever since, sadly without the phenomenal local mountain produce of the original.

Serves 6.Time: 4 to 8 hours in a slow cooker / 1.5 hours in the oven.

56

Ingredients:

400g forced rhubarb, trimmed and

chopped into 2cm chunks

Juice of one orange

3 tbsp. brown sugar

200g oats

130ml milk of your choice

(you can use soy or almond

for a fully vegan recipe).

Words: Beth Vincent.

With Rhubarb season firmly upon us, this easy dessert is a great way of using up the bittersweet harvest from the famous Rhubarb Triangle of Yorkshire. Forced Rhubarb is the result of a rather usual process; the plants begin by spending two years out in the fields without being harvested. Whilst in the fields, the plants store energy in their roots as carbohydrates. These roots are subjected to frost before being moved into sheds in November where they are kept in complete darkness. In the sheds the plants begin to grow in the warmth and the stored carbohydrate in the roots is transformed into glucose resulting in forced rhubarb’s bittersweet flavour.This cobbler is much like a crumble, however is slightly healthier due to the omission of butter and other fats. To make it even more saintly, I recommend using agave nectar or raw honey instead of brown sugar. It is also ridiculously simple, so there’s no excuse to miss out on this local delicacy!

Method: Preheat the oven to 180ºC

1. Place the chopped rhubarb in the bottom of a large ovenproof dish, sprinkle with 1 tbsp. of the brown sugar and pour over the orange juice and then mix well.

2. In a separate bowl, mix together the oats, milk and remaining two tbsp. of sugar until a thick batter is formed.

3. Dollop this batter liberally over your rhubarb mix, then place in the centre of the oven to cook for 25-30 minutes until golden brown.

4. The Cobbler is best served with liberal amounts of custard or cream

Yorkshire

Rhubarb Cobbler

57

Yorkshire

Rhubarb Cobbler

5858

Staff:Ben Thorpe – Editoryorkonafork.com

Beth Vincent – Deputy Editoraudacityoffood.co.uk

Grace Neal – Art Director@Grace_Neal

Featured contributors this issue:James OsbornJames illustrated The Pubolholic’s feature on the PubCo Reform. James is a recent BA (Hons) Illustration graduate of the University of Cumbria’s arts campus. His style is often psychedelic, always punk and never what you expect from him. jamesosbornillustration.co.uk

The Puboholic“Having lived in York most of my life I’ve had the pleasure of visiting a fair amount of our pubs; a pint in my local, a night on the town, a date, beer festival, or working as bar staff, I’ve taken any excuse to see what’s on offer. Now I’m on a mission to visit them all, writing while I drink my way around the city.”puboholic.com

Contact:If you are a writer, photographer or illustrator and want to work with York on a Fork, we’d love to hear from you. Please email Ben, [email protected].

If you are interested in supporting this magazine by advertising with us, please email [email protected] and he’ll tell you everything you need to know.

York on a Fork Issue Three is out 1st June 2015.

The Kitchen

Cheers!York on a Fork would like to thank the people of our lovely city, all our readers and advertisers for supporting us. A special thank you to Richard Gray for the puns, and to Josh Winning for his timely deadline night advice.

Ben: My (soon to be) wife, Grace & Beth for their huge enthusiasm and talent, all our knowledgeable contributors and anyone who makes York the tasty place to live that it is!

Beth: I would mostly like to thank Des for putting up with my incessant culinary adventures and all those involved in creating the vibrant food scene we all enjoy in York today!

Grace: Thank you Jorji and Patrick for the inspiration, wisdom and support. Thank you Ben, Tam, Bethan and Des for the food, beers and big ideas.

59

Grace spotted this cake looking sorry for itself on Leeman Road. That greeting has sent her imagination into overdrive. Was the cake thrown on the ground in a fit of range? Perhaps it was just dropped accidentally by a stressed parent managing gifts, balloons and a few under-fives. But the only question that really needs asking here is what kind of retired person gets angry?

To the would-be recipient of this cake, we wish you a wonderful retirement filled with cake, great food and no anger at all. Congratulations!

york on a fork 2

Documents