Summary

This is a printer enclosure large enough to hold the Original Prusa i3 MK3swith the MMU2s and five spools of filament. It is remixed from the PrusaPrinter Enclosure V2. The CAD work and credit belongs to strita. Source: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3673-mmu2s-enclosure

The Version 1 you see next to it in the pictures can be found here. https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/22007-double-stack-ikea-lack-enclosure-v1-works-w-mmu2s

3D Printers > 3D Printers - Upgrades

spoolrewinder rewinder rewind prusai3mk3mmu2 mmu2

mmu lack ikealack enclosure autorewindspool

3dprinterenclosure

Category: 3D Printing Why build this thing?

Saves time, space and helps dry filament

This vs single stack Prusa Enclosure V2. I really like the Prusa V2enclosure. I really do. But this offers a few advantages...

Mordiev

Double Stack IKEALACK Enclosure V2(works w/ MMU2s)

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updated 22. 2. 2020 | published 14. 2. 2020

3D M

ODEL

ONLY

Saves Space: The universal auto spool rewinder saves a TON of spacebecause I don't need the MMU filament buffer. You can still use the top ofthe enclosure as storage.

Saves time: The filament buffer is so slow to load and setup. It takes awhile to load the filament into the two PTFE tubes then feed through oneinch at a time. These auto rewinders are a lot faster to load up and feedfilament into the MMU.

Heat is contained: Since the enclosure keeps most of the heat in. Thatheat is used to dry out the spools inside the enclosure. So if you areprinting with one or two filaments you can simply hang up a few more andlet them bask in the heat for a while.

Filament spools are also shielded from dust.

Why build ANY Enclosure for your Printer?

An enclosed environment makes printing a lot more stable. Cold air draftscan be generated by windows, doors, Central heating or air, a bodywalking by or even from you breathing as you watch the amazing machinein action. Drafts can cause temperature fluctuations that lead to cracks inyour print, poor layer adhesion (de-lamination) or worst case detachingfrom the print bed. An enclosure will keep a stable temperature around theprinter to ensure reliable operation. This is ESSENTIAL if you print withmaterials that expand with heat and contract when cooled like ABS andNylon

Odors and most fumes will be contained during the print. https://www.dezeen.com/2016/02/16/health-study-reveals-harmful-toxic-effects-hazards-3d-printing-illinois-institute-technology/

Dust reduction on the print bed and the spools.

It looks nice and keeps everything in place. A printer in a house canbecome an eye sore with filaments, boxes, tools, PTFE tubes and wires allover the place.

This can also help reduce the sounds and noises coming from your printer.

Let's face it. The REAL reason you want to build this is for the braggingrights.

Notable Updates to this thing or the Instructions

7/10/2019: I put this one in my basement and added the plexi-glass. Butthe plexi I used was 9 years old and the film didn't come off cleanly. So mypictures look horrible. I added LED lights as you can see in this thing. https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/21960-led-light-bar-angle-mount

6/27/2019: Uploaded more pictures and instructions. Still don't have myplexi glass yet.

6/24/2019: First set of instructions, pictures and print files (Version 2.1) areposted. I am still printing all the parts I need so I don't have pictures of thefinal product yet. Please be patient.

Required Materials

Non Printable Parts

2X or more Ikea LACK tables. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20011408/3X Plexi Glass sheets 3mm thick, 440 mm wide, 905 mm tall2X Plexi Glass sheets 3mm thick, 220 mm wide, 905 mm tall

Fasteners: 24X pan (or hex) head screws (5x20mm)8X Course Thread Drywall screws (6x1 1/4 inch)6X M3x30 mm (for hinges)4-12X neodymium magnet, 20X6X2 mm (I used 4 on the middle hingesonly)

For the Spool holders 20X Course Thread Drywall screws (6x1 1/4 inch)10X M3x10 mm10X M3 Nuts (Nylon Lock nuts preferred)5X M3x25 mm5X PC4-M10 Fittings Male Straight Pneumatic PEFE Tube Push in QuickFitting https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MGLJ48M/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fasteners

Printable Parts

Most of these parts were designed by and uploaded by strita. Source: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3673-mmu2s-enclosure

1X set of hinges:3X corner sets: You will need to print three sets of corners but you get tochoose how many of each set you want. The difference is one set has thehole and guide for the power cable. So most of you will want to print oneset with the cable guide and two sets without.

NOTE: I could use some help here. Turns out that we need to bore out thehole a little more for the corners that will be used on top. I had to borethem out with a 9/32 inch drill bit. If someone can modify the stl Mesh filesfor me I would be very grateful. I know CAD a lot better than mesh mixer.

I "may" eventually want to run more wires into my enclosure for LED lightsetc. So I will print three sets with the cable guide. Two for the bottom backcorners and one for the top back right.

For the Spool holders and Rewinders 5x copies of the Universal Rewinderwithout the stand.https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3223-hanging-mount-for-universal-auto-rewind-spool-hold

and

5 copies of this spool hangerhttps://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3674-long-arm-hanging-universal-spool-re-winder

Print Settings

I used: Support in the hing areas only.10% infill.PETG (PLA is too brittle for the hinges and magnets. [My Opinion])2 perimeters around the rear corner pieces4 perimeters around the front corners and hinges.

I strongly suggest you use my 3MF files to slice from if you are running thePrusa Slicer. I have all the settings and support enforcers setup already.

All printed parts (except one set of corner pieces)

Build Instructions (Enclosure)

Identify Hinge Types

You will end up with 3 sets of working hinges. Bottom, middle and top sets.Start by identifying the 3 different types of hinges.

The bottom hinges will have a long solid flat bottom with the slots for themagnets facing up.The Top hinges will have a slot for the magnets on the same side as theLong flat bottom.The Middle hinges are printed in two pieces that come together to form asingle hinge.

Top & Bottom Hinge to Corner Assembly

Assemble the Bottom hinges first. Press the hinge into the corner piece.There are left and right hinges that should match the left and right cornerpieces. Make sure you use the correct pieces as shown in the picture. Usea 3M x 30mm screw to hold it all together. Drive the screw into the plastic

slightly and the threads will hold it into place.(Do not over tighten andstrip the threads.)

Now assemble the Top hinges the same way.

(Optional) You may add magnets to these sets if you choose. I only addedmagnets to the middle sets on mine.

Middle Hinge to Corner Assembly

Insert a magnet into one side of the middle hinge. Then press the secondhalf of the hinge together so the magnet is completely encased. Then fitthe assembled hinge into the corner piece. Use a 3M x 30 mm screw tohold the hinge into place. Insert the screw from the bottom like before.Now insert another magnet into the corner piece. Make sure the twomagnets attract each other.

Attach the bottom corners to the lower table top

Place the four bottom corners on top of the lower Ikea LACK table top.Please note that all four corners have small tabs to help you line them upwith the corner of the table top for proper placement. As shown in the nextpicture. The right rear corner should have the large hole intended for thepower cord. (Optional both rear corners could have the large cable guideholes.)

When you are sure you have the correct pieces in the correct corners youcan drive a long screw into the center hole to lock it into place.

Lower leg assembly

Place a leg on top of the corner pieces with the large screw guide holepointing down (this hole is probably too wide for your screws to work in itso we hide them). Drive some pan head or hex head screws through theside of the corner piece into the side of the leg.

Lower Legs with screw guide hole pointing down.

Lower Legs assembled

Trim off the Spacers. The Middle set of corners do not need them.

Attach the Middle set of Corners

Then take the middle corner pieces and screw them into place on top ofthe legs using long screws. I used drywall screws.

Upper half assembly

Use the double threaded screws that came with the Ikea LACK table. Slip ascrew spacer onto the screw then use pliers to drive the screw into the topof a loose table leg. Now slip a corner piece onto the top of the table legwith the screw sticking out the end.

DO NOT DRIVE screws into the side of the legs yet. Wait until the next stepis complete.

Attach the corner pieces to the top legs.

RAN INTO A PROBLEM

Turns out you need to drill out the holes on these in order to slide theminto place. My bad. I will make a note of it earlier on in the instructions andtry to get the mesh files updated. I used a 9/32 drill bit to widen theseholes.

Twist the entire leg assembly to drive the screw into the bottom of thetable. As you drive the large leg screw into place it will snug up to thetable at some point. It may become apparent that the corner piece needsto be re-positioned. If this is the case then you will need to remove the legand re position the corner piece before reattaching the leg. Repeat thisstep for the other legs.

When all four legs are in place and the corner pieces are pointed thecorrect direction. Then you can drive screws into the sides of the legs tofasten them to the corner pieces.

Legs Fastened into place with screws

The upper and lower halves of the new enclosure

Enclosure Assembly

Before you insert the Plexi Glass... Place the top table so its legs rest insidethe notches of the middle corner pieces.Now you Insert the three large Plexi Glass panels for the side and backwalls. The plexi glass is flexible and can be slightly bent into position. Startby sliding down through the middle notches first then into the bottomnotches. Since the top table is not fastened into place it should be easy toget the top corners of the plexi glass into the Notches by slightly lifting thetop table.

Now drive screws through the holes in the middle corner sets into the legsto fasten them into place.

The plexi glass for the doors should simply slide into the hinges.

Final step for the enclosure. Feed the power cable through the hole in thebottom rear corner. Then use the guide piece. Fold it around the cable andslide it into the hole to lock the cable in.

Filament Management

New Improved Filament Management System

Hanging Spool & Buffer Shelf

The new shelf is a lot better than the old system.Much faster to change spools of filamentSpools are always balancedLess maintenance to keep workingEasier to buildLess filament to create this systemMost important: MUCH MORE RELIABLE OPERATION

Follow this link to the description page.https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/21965-hanging-spool-buffer-shelf

OLD FILAMENT MANAGEMENT SYSTEM - Not recommended

You will need to print 5x copies of the Universal Rewinder without thestand.https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3223-hanging-mount-for-universal-auto-rewind-spool-hold

and

5 copies of this spool hangerhttps://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3674-long-arm-hanging-universal-spool-re-winder

How you arange them at the top is your choice but here is how I arrangedmine.

Added Plexi Glass and LED lights.

LED lights

Here is the LED lights and mounts I used. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3739946

If you like this Design...

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Model Files (.stl, .3mf, .obj, .amf) DOWNLOAD ALL FILES

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Thank You

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corners_with_cable_guide_v21_22008.stl

hingesall_v21_22008.stl

hinges_v21.3mf

corners_v21.3mf

corners_v21.stl

hingesall_v21.stl

corners_with_cable_guide_v21.3mf

430.9 KBupdated 14. 2. 2020

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License

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Attribution

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corners_with_cable_guide_v21.stl