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DUBLIN

Celebrating St. PatrickRaise a glass at theGuinness Storehouseand enjoy Dublin‘s big parade

Say a Little PrayerLet spirits soar atthe city‘s cathedralsand churches

February - March 2009

N°8www.inyourpocket.com

Contents

THIS PADDY’S DAY

1759 - 2009 JOIN THE WORLDWIDE CELEBRATION.

LET’S PARTY LIKE IT’S 1759It’s great to be in Ireland on St. Patrick’s Day. And there’ll be no better place to celebrate our national saint’s day and our national brew than in Guinness Storehouse

®

.

We’ll be celebrating on the double because it is precisely 250 years since Arthur Guinness signed the lease for St. James’s Gate, so you can expect an extra special hooley.

There’ll be more than 250 entertainers of every description, from traditional Irish musicians and dancers to bluegrass and jazz players, to get you in the mood. It’s a great excuse to be Irish for the day and investigate the secrets of our time honoured brewing methods. So come for a chat, a glass of Guinness and some complimentary seafood. For Paddy’s sake, come in and join the party.

Remarkable Years

To avoid long queues, book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com.

Visitors who book in advance on the website will also receive a 10% discount on adult tickets.

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2434_Guinness_st patricks '09_pocketguide_143x210.indd 1 27/01/2009 12:48:22

February - March 2009dublin.inyourpocket.com

3Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Arriving 5We’ve only just begun

Getting Around & The Basics 6 What makes the city tick

Culture & Sport 10 Go Wilde in the aisles

St. Patrick’s Celebrations 12 Make your mates green with envy

Where to stay 14 Hip hotels and budget hostels

Where to eat 23 Chow down at the city’s favourite haunts

Contents

Nightlife 36 There’s whiskey in the jar, apparently

What to see 41 Saints, scholars and a great big spire

Temple Bar 54 Markets, music and a handy map

Traditional Irish Trail 56 Take a bit of Ireland home with you

Shopping 59 Splash the cash

Maps & IndexIndex 61Street Index 62Greater Dublin Map 63City map 64-65Ireland map 66

THIS PADDY’S DAY

1759 - 2009 JOIN THE WORLDWIDE CELEBRATION.

LET’S PARTY LIKE IT’S 1759It’s great to be in Ireland on St. Patrick’s Day. And there’ll be no better place to celebrate our national saint’s day and our national brew than in Guinness Storehouse

®

.

We’ll be celebrating on the double because it is precisely 250 years since Arthur Guinness signed the lease for St. James’s Gate, so you can expect an extra special hooley.

There’ll be more than 250 entertainers of every description, from traditional Irish musicians and dancers to bluegrass and jazz players, to get you in the mood. It’s a great excuse to be Irish for the day and investigate the secrets of our time honoured brewing methods. So come for a chat, a glass of Guinness and some complimentary seafood. For Paddy’s sake, come in and join the party.

Remarkable Years

To avoid long queues, book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com.

Visitors who book in advance on the website will also receive a 10% discount on adult tickets.

The

GUIN

NESS

wor

d an

d ha

rp d

evic

e ar

e tr

adem

arks

. © G

uinn

ess &

Co.

200

8

2434_Guinness_st patricks '09_pocketguide_143x210.indd 1 27/01/2009 12:48:22

March 17 Marching Bands

Jameson rolls out the barrelwww.inyourpocket.com

4 Foreword

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2009dublin.inyourpocket.comDublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2009dublin.inyourpocket.com

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Editorial Managing Editor Heidi McAlpin (048) 9091 [email protected]

Advertising Director Sinead Faulkner (048) 9145 [email protected]

Advertising SalesAlan Groves (048) 9146 [email protected]

Layout & Design Sean Lynch

Contributors Joe Griffin - NightlifeDr. Jonathan Bardon - History

It’s up there with the carnival in Rio, the bull running at Pamplona and New York’s Thanksgiving Parade. Where else in the world would you rather be on March 17 than right here in Dublin? Each year the city throws Ireland’s Patron Saint a suitably celebratory party. Bands from across the world fly in for two hour parade, watched by the Lord Mayor, Ireland’s President, and tens of thousands of street-lining spectators. Find out all about the St. Patrick’s Day Parade, and its accompanying five day Festival on p.12.And, when the parade’s over, make haste for the Guinness Storehouse (p.13 & 53) whose cavernous space will resound to the sounds of great local and international live music. You can also avail of a pint of the black stuff (free with admission price) and some great Guinness-infused dishes at its fifth floor Brewery Bar.If you’re all revelled out after that little lot, and fancy a spot of saintly soul searching, Dublin’s glorious Cathedrals & Churches are the places to seek sanctuary. Find out where St. Patrick converted pagans, Jonathan Swift was Dean and St. Valentine’s relics lie from p.12.The usual selection of sightseeing, restaurants, bars and nightlife complete your Dublin foray. And check out, too, our Traditional Irish Trail (p.57) in which we’ve flagged up some undeniably indigenous sights, sounds, treats and experiences. St. Patrick would be proud.

Copyright notice Text copyright In Your Pocket Ltd. 2000-2008. Pics Dublin Tourism (DT) where stated. Maps copyright Dublin Tourism, Failte Ireland and TASCQ. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of Dublin In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Dublin In Your [email protected]

© In Your Pocket Ltd.

Published six times per year by In Your Pocket Ltd.

For all enquiries and comments contact [email protected].

Next issue April-May 09

Visitors and locals like to mingle at the a n n ua l G u i n n es s S t o r e h o u s e S t . Patrick’s Day shindig. Enjoy live music, and drink in the sights from the the top floor Gravity Bar. Silly hats optional. Pic Guinness Storehouse.

Cover storyOdesa In Your Pocket, a mini-guide to the jewel of the Ukrainian coast, became the 50th In Your Pocket guide when published back in November. It was followed quickly by Maribor In Your Pocket, a mini-guide to the second largest city in Slovenia. This year will see more new, full, In Your Pockets, in Sarejevo, Glasgow and Vienna. If you want to join the Pocket Revolution and publish your own guide, to your city, get in touch with us at [email protected]. You should also make sure you take a look at our new, much improved website. It is packed with exclusive content, and offers you the chance to really get involved, writing your own reviews or commenting on our features. Go surf at inyourpocket.com.

Europe In Your Pocket

Foreword

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2009dublin.inyourpocket.com

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By trainRegional and national transport is getting there with a cross-country rail network and super swift city services gliding you effortlessly from coast to coast. Jump aboard our listings and read up on Ireland’s InterCity railway sys-tem, Dublin’s two main stations and the capital’s DART and LUAS networks.

Iarnród Éireann tel. 1890 77 88 99 - talking time-table, www.iarnrodeireann.ie. Ireland’s national train company covers 87 InterCity stations with services divided into Standard and Superstandard Classes. Smoking is pro-hibited on all services and in all stations. Dublin’s two main train stations - Heuston and Connolly - are connected by a 14min LUAS trip.

Connolly Station C-2, Amiens St, Dublin 1, tel. 703 2358. Dublin’s busiest train station is on the north side of the city beside Busáras Central Bus Terminal and Dublin’s financial area, the International Financial Services Centre (IFSC), are near the station and 5mins walk from city centre. InterCity trains go to Belfast, Sligo, Dundalk, Drogheda, Ark-low, Maynooth, Longford and Rosslare Europort. The DART train runs to the affluent seaside villages of Malahide and Howth on the north side and the pretty Co. Wicklow beach towns of Bray and Greystones on the south side. The LUAS Red Line terminates at Connolly Station and runs to Tallaght. QOpen 07:00 - 22:20, Sun 08:00 - 21:30.

Heuston Station A-2, Dublin 8, tel. 703 3299. InterCity trains run to Cork, Tralee, Limerick, Waterford, Ballina, West-port, Galway, Ennis, Kildare and Clonmel. The station is south of the River Liffey at the end of the Quays 20mins walk from the city centre, 5mins walk from the Guinness Storehouse and 15mins walk from Phoenix Park. The LUAS Red Line con-nects Connolly Station on the east side and Tallaght on the west side. Opening times refer to the station booking office. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00, Sun 07:30 - 21:30.

Train station facilitiesBoth stations are staffed 24hrs and have ATMs, ticket vending machines, car parks, public pay phones, a shop and a taxi rank. They are serviced by a number of bus routes and have wheelchair accessibility and a ramp for train access.

ArrivingWhether arriving on a low-budget plane, piloting your own Learjet or driving sedately off a ferry, here’s some handy info to help smooth your journey. Doors to manual.

By planeDublin Airport, tel. 814 1111, www.dublin-airport.com. The country’s main airport is situated approx. 10km north of Dublin city centre near the M50 and M1 motorways. A large number of buses, coaches and taxis serve the airport which has one terminal for both domestic and international flights with a second due for completion by 2010. Remember to pay for any car parking at the automatic pay stations in the arrivals hall - or at the entrance to the short term car park - before returning to your car, as there are no cashiers at the exit. A bank, Bureau de Change and two 24hr ATMs dispensing Euros, US$ and GBP£ are on the arrivals level. The Airport Information Desk, Dublin Tourism Tourist Information Office and Bus and Rail info desk are be-side the second entrance. Taxis are available outside the arrivals building, and car hire desks (06:00 - 23:00) are in the arrivals hall. The Mezzanine Level has a variety of restaurants and cafés.

By boatDublin Ferryport (Dublin Port Company) D-2, Alex-andra Rd, Dublin 1, tel. 887 6000, www.dublinport.ie. Ireland’s busiest port is the second largest industrial estate in the country and employs 4000 people. There are up to 18 daily sailings to the UK and the continent, and Dublin-bound cruise ships also use its terminal. Buses and taxis (difficult to find during busy sailing times) provide a regular service to and from the port which is just two miles from Dublin city centre. Keep walking on the north side of the River Liffey past the Point Depot and you are at the Port area.

Dun Laoghaire Harbour The Ferry Terminal, Harbour Rd, Dun Laoghaire, tel. 280 8074, www.dlharbour.ie. Seven miles south of Dublin city is the Victorian town of Dun Laoghaire whose man-made 19th Century Harbour is the largest in Western Europe. Daily Stena HSS sailings connect the town with Holyhead in Wales, and buses, taxis and the DART (20mins to Dublin City) provide transport to and from the port. There is a Dublin Tourism Information Office in the ferry terminal which is located on the seafront between the east and west piers, the former of which has two Crimean War cannons. The town has a strong yachting tradition, is home to Ireland’s largest marina (500 berths) and the birthplace of Bob Geldof. Visit www.dlrtourism.com for things to do, places to stay and other tempting seaside suggestions.

Irish Ferries D-2, Dublin Ferryport, Terminal Road South, Ferryport, Dublin 1, tel. 0818 300 400/From NI 00 353 818 300 400, [email protected], www.irishfer-ries.com. Daily sailings to Holyhead, Wales.Isle of Man Steam Packet Company D-2, Dublin Fer-ryport, Terminal Road South, Dublin City, Dublin 1, tel. + 44 871 222 1 333, www.steam-packet.com. Easter - Sept. sailings to Isle of Man (2hrs 50mins).Norfolkline D-2, Dublin Ferryport, tel. 819 2999/From NI + GB 0870 600 4321, www.norfolkline-ferries.co.uk. Daily sailings to Liverpool (7hrs).P&O Irish Sea D-2, Dublin Ferryport, www.poirishsea.com. Daily sailings to Liverpool (7hrs 30mins).Stena D-2, Dublin Ferryport, tel. 204 7777, www.stenaline.ie. Daily sailings to Holyhead, Wales from Dun Laoghaire Harbour (HSS, 99mins) and Dublin Ferryport (Superferry, 3hrs 15mins).

D-2, www.dublinporttunnel.ie. This feat of modern-day engineering burrows seven storeys beneath Dublin city, making your North South journey all that more swift and, dare we say, futuristic. Opened on March 5, 2007, the 4.5km Tunnel is the largest ever roads transportation project in Ireland. Two ‘one-way’ tubes connect Dublin Port to the M1 and the National Roads network via the M50 at Coolock.Tolls (€3-12 each way depending on day and time) can be paid to a cashier, at a coin machine or in advance at www.etrip.ie. Commercial vehicles above 3.5 tonnes laden weight, buses with 25+ seats and vehicles specially adapted for, and driven by, physically disabled drivers can travel toll-free. L-drivers, passengers and cyclists are restricted from using the Tunnel. Access is 24/7 (except for occasional off-peak maintenance closures - check in advance) and emergency telephones to the Tunnel Operator are at 250m intervals. Before entering remove sunglasses, turn on dipped headlights, check you’ve enough fuel and tune into any FM radio station for ‘break-in’ instructions from the Operator.

Dublin Port Tunnel

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Dublin In Your Pocket

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add n after your route number. Although the main Dublin Bus office on O’Connell St is closed Sun & Public Holidays there is a reduced service that runs on these days so don’t fret... you won’t be left behind. QOpen 9:00 - 17:30, Mon 08:30 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

getting AroUnd

DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit), www.irishrail.ie/home. The iconic green DART commuter trains carry around 80,000 passengers every day as they traverse the city and hug the coastline from Greystones in the South to Malahide or Howth in the north. Trains run from c.06:30 - 23:00 - check the on-line timetable to avoid disappointment/frustration. Trains operate every 5/10mins during peak times, and there’s an aver-age gap of 20mins during off-peak and 20-30mins on Sundays and Bank Holidays. Make like a local and buy pre-paid tickets to bag yourself a canny discount.

Luas www.luas.ie. This super sleek tram system - Luas means speed in Irish - was introduced to the city’s grateful natives and visitors in 2004. Fully funded by the taxpayer, it has been such a success that extensions to both lines are now being constructed. There are two Luas tram lines; the Red line (14km, 23 stops) and the Green line (9km, 13 stops). The Red Line runs from Connolly to Tallaght and the Green Line links St. Stephen’s Green with Sandyford. Like the DART, the Luas carries 80,000 passengers daily. There is on-board CCTV and a fine for fare evasion. As most trams have an inspector, it’s silly to try and get away with not paying. All stations and trams are equipped to cater for reduced mobility and visually impaired passengers. Times refer to tram times and info incl. Bank Holidays 07:00 - 00:30. Trams run every 10/15mins and 4/5mins at peak times (07:00 - 10:00 and 16:00 - 21:00). Check their easy-to-use website for updates. QOpen 05:30 - 00:30, Sat 06:30 - 00:30, Sun 07:00 - 23:30.

By busBus Eireann Expressway C-2, Busáras, Store St, Dublin 1, tel. 836 6111, www.buseireann.ie. This Intercity Expressway network has over 50 routes serving cities and towns across Ireland - and Northern Ireland in conjunction with Ulsterbus. Buses to Galway, Limerick and Belfast leave every hour and buses to Derry, Cork and Co. Donegal’s Letterkenny every two hours. The Belfast journey runs via Dublin Airport every hour 24/7 (€15/22). Prices quoted are adult single/return and subject to change. Tickets do not need to be pre-booked. If you’re planning on doing a lot of travelling, especially in a short time period, check the website for various money-saving bus and rail Tourist Travel Passes. Eurolines tickets are also available for travel in 25 European countries, including GB.

Dublin Bus B-2, Head Office, 59 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 873 4222, www.dublinbus.ie. Dublin Bus serves Dublin city and county, and adjoining areas. Bus routes in Dublin are not known by their destinations but by the number on the front of the bus. As it’s such an extensive service, check the website’s timetable for your local bus routes and times. Buses don’t stop automatically, so put your hand out when you see yours coming. Bus drivers don’t handle cash, so either buy a prepaid ticket or have exact change ready. The on-board machine only accepts coins and no change is given. If you don’t have the correct change, your ticket should include the extra amount paid. Bring it to the O’Connell St. office if you want a refund. Prepaid tickets can be bought in advance, and in bulk, as singles, daily, weekly, monthly or annual tickets from Dublin Bus offices or ticket agents across the city. The Airlink shuttle bus runs between the Airport and the city centre, also stopping at Heuston, Connolly and Busaras Stations. Nitelink is a late night bus service serving most of Greater Dublin. Most routes run Mon-Sat and depart from College, Westmoreland and D’Olier Streets and usually include three city pick up points. Get times for the next three buses in each direction texted to your mobile with Bustxt by texting BUS followed by your route number eg BUS 45 to 53503. For Nitelink times

Make your stay in Dublin even more enjoyable!

Take the LUASDublin’s Light Rail Tram

Freephone: 1800 300 604www.luas.ie

Unlike most European countries, Ireland has no postcodes as such. However, Dublin does have postal districts numbered D1 - D24. Keep your eyes on street signs and use our handy map and you’ll soon be navigating like a native.

Dublin 1 and 7 are the North City Centre and Dublin 2 and 8 are the South City Centre. These are the four main districts you’re likely to visit. As Dublin is quite a small city, you can still get to most places on foot so don’t be deterred; although Dublin 6 and Dublin 3 look a long way out of the city centre, they’re really only about a 10min walk away.

The only exception to this rule is The Phoenix Park whose official address is Dublin 8, even though it’s on the Northside. Also, Dubliners rarely refer to places as being in Dublin 2 or Dublin 1, instead writing D2 or D1.Another way of traversing the city with ease is to use the River Liffey as your divide. Everywhere north of the Liffey is referred to as the Northside and all the postal numbers are uneven. Cross over the River Liffey and you’ve arrived in the Southside where all postal numbers are even. Hence, simply by where you live, you are either a Northsider or a Southsider.

Finding Your Way Around

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Driving in IrelandIt is mandatory for all drivers to carry their drivers licence at all times as, if stopped by the Gardaí (police), you will be asked to produce it. Other important rules: • It is illegal to drive and use a handheld mobile phone. • Don’t drink and drive. • Drive on the left. • Traffic coming from the right-hand side has precedence on

roundabouts (traffic rotaries). • It is compulsory to wear front and rear seat belts. • If renting a car with children you must also rent the appropri-

ate seat or cushion for their age and weight. • Children under 12 years are not permitted in front seats.Speed limits• Motorway 120km/h, national road 100km/h, towing trailers,

caravans, etc 80km/h (or less where signposted).

ParkingParking regulations are strictly enforced in Dublin City so beware or you could be clamped or towed. In some suburbs Parking Tickets and fines are given out in place of clamping.ON STREET PARKING: Parking meters operate a Pay and Display system. Pay in advance then display the ticket visibly or risk being clamped, towed or fined. Always check the signs for chargeable days and hours which are very specific to each location. The average city centre cost is €2.50ph, with a max. 3hrs parking in most locations. When paying at the meter, insert € coins and check the parking expiry time for that amount. Then press the green button to print the two-part ticket. Display the larger part on your car windscreen and keep the counterfoil as a reminder of the ticket’s expiry time.CAR PARKS: There are many multi-storey car parks in the city centre, and most offer a discount on overnight parking. When driving through the city you will see digital signs - updated every minute - telling you how many spaces are free in each multi-storey. Only a few car parks accept Mastercard and Eurocard.

BorderThe island’s only land border, between the Republic of Ire-land and Northern Ireland (NI), is 360kms (224m) long and stretches from Lough Foyle in the north-west to Carlingford Lough in the south-east. In common with many internal EU borders, it is very inconspicuous and open by world standards. You must drive on the left hand side of the road on both sides of the border. Beware of the change in speed limits when cross-ing. All speed limits in Ireland are in kph whilst in Northern Ireland they are in mph.

Electricity & InternetThe standard electrical current is 220/240 volts (50 cycles). Bulky 3-pin plugs are the norm, so remember your adapter, or converter for your phone recharger. There are numerous phone and internet cafes dotted throughout the city, and lots of coffee shops also offer-ing wifi internet access. Most hotels will have a business centre and wifi access too. Look for the wifi key in our hotel listings.

Currency & BanksUnlike their NI neighbours, Ireland has wholeheartedly embraced the Euro. The most commonly used of the seven notes are the €50, €20, €10 and €5. Try not to use larger de-nominations as shops and public transport don’t like break-ing them... and you know what they say about refusal often offending. Bank opening hours are usually Mon, Tues and Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:30 - 16:00 and Thurs 10:00 - 17:00. ATMs accept any Visa, Plus, Cirrus, MasterCard, Eurocard, or Eurocheque cards 24hrs. Many shops and services now use CHIP & PIN cards. In addition to banks, money can be changed at most Post Offices, Tourist Offices and hotels.

Driving around Dublin just got slightly easier with the introduction of Barrier Free Tolls (eToll) on the M50 ringroad. Now when you approach and drive through the Toll Plazas one of the following happens:

1) If your car is fitted with an electronic tag your pre-pay account will be debited – or you can pay on-line. Details of all tag operators and types of accounts are available at www.tagcompare.ie.

2) If you have a video account with eFlow you can pay from this account.

3) A photo is taken of your vehicle’s registration data and you have until 20:00 the following day to pay the toll. You can pay at www.eflow.ie, by phone (LoCall 1890 50 10 50) or at Payzone branded shops nationwide through a type of chip and pin machine. To find your nearest outlet visit www.payzone.ie.

Be careful, though, as there is a debt collection agency in operation to follow toll avoiders back to their home countries, so prompt payment is advised. If you forget, a €2 toll could rapidly become a €145 bill. Not a nice welcome home present. For more info log onto www.nra.ie.

Barrier Free Tolls

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CustomsIreland operates the three channel system: the Blue Channel - for travellers within the EU, the Red Channel - those travellers with goods to declare, and the Green Channel - anyone arriving in Ireland with nothing to de-clare. Spot Checks can happen i f you’re using the Green or Blue Channels. Before you arrive in Ireland be aware as to whether or not you have goods to declare. Firearms and ammunition, explosives, indecent/obscene mate-rial, foodstuffs and any livestock are all subject to strict regulations. Not surprisingly, it’s an offence to import or carry controlled substances (drugs) when travelling to or from Ireland. There are certain allowances for duty-free goods from non-EU countries, but no allowances for to-bacco products or alcoholic drinks for anybody under 17 years. A full list of regulations, licences and allowances are available from: Customs Information Office, New Custom House, Promenade Rd, Dublin 3, tel. 877 6222, www.revenue.ie.

Emergency numbersThe main Emergency Services are Police (Gardai), EMS (Emergency Medical Service) and Ambulance, Fire and Res-cue, Marine and Coastal Emergencies and Mountain Rescue. If you need the services of any of the above freephone 999 or 112 from a landline or mobile and ask the operator to put you through to the relevant service.

ImmigrationEuropean Union (EU) citizens arriving from within the EU need valid official identification - a valid passport is recommended and in some cases a visa is necessary. Travellers arriving from outside the EU need a valid passport; again a visa may be necessary. Always check with your local Irish consular authority in your home country for visa regulations if you plan to work in Ireland. Visitors may be asked to prove they have a return or onward ticket and sufficient funds to take care of their needs while here.

PostGPO (General Post Office) B-2, O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 705 1000, www.anpost.ie. Dublin’s main post office is the stand-out architectural and historic landmark on bustling O’Connell Street. For more info see our listing in What to see. As well as buy-ing stamps and sending parcels you can also pay bills, top up your mobile phone credit and send or receive money with Postal Money Orders, £Sterling Drafts and Western Union. The latest time for posting parcels is 19:00. Check online for your local post office and its hours of business. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Smoking & AlcoholThe legal age for smoking and drinking in the Republic of Ireland is 18. In March 2004, Ireland became the first country in Europe to introduce a complete ban on smoking in the work-place. The following, however, are some relevant exceptions: Designated hotel, guesthouse and B&B bedrooms. Remember to specify your preference for a smoking or non-smoking room when booking accommodation. It is, unsurprisingly, illegal to sell or buy drugs anywhere in the Republic of Ireland.

Telephone CodesIf you are dialling Ireland from abroad, prefix all calls with 00 353, then 1 for Dublin eg to call Dublin Tourism from abroad you would dial 00 353 1 605 7700. If dialling any number listed in this guide within Ireland, but outside Dublin, always prefix with 01 (Dublin’s area code).

Tourist InformationDublin Tourism B-2, Tourism Centre, Suffolk St, Dublin 2, tel. 605 7700, www.visitdublin.com. Located in a fabulous restored former church, this awe-inspiring tourism centre is a cut above the norm. Once inside, take a moment to admire the mightily impressive stained glass windows and equally inspiring vaulted ceiling. Tourist info abounds, and you can also book tours, accommodation and lots of other visitor goodies at the various counters. A ground floor shop sells the usual horde of souvenirs, and an upstairs sandwich bar is a great spot to galvanise yourself before joining your fellow sightseers and shoppers. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Also at Dublin Airport, Dun Laoghaire Ferry Port and Upper O’Connell St. JKD

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€1 = £0.87, US$1.28, AU$1.96, 4.60zlxe.com rates 05 Feb 09

C-3, Dept. of Justice, Equality and Law Re-form, 1a Grand Canal Street Lower, Dublin 2, tel. 661 0562, fax 6610452, www.itas.ie. Even with the best advice and planning, holidays can sometimes go wrong. In the unlikely event of you becom-ing a victim of Tourist Crime in Ireland, report the incident in person to the nearest Garda Station (Police Station) who will then get in touch with ITAS.ITAS provides free emotional support and practical as-sistance including help with language difficulties, money transfers, re-issuing stolen travel tickets and cancelling credit cards.It also offers phone/fax/email facilities and can liaise with embassies, Gardaí (Police) and other agencies. Help with accommodation, meals, medical assistance and transport for stranded tourists is available, though it is important to note that ITAS does not offer insurance or legal advice, financial assistance or the replacement of lost items.

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00 Sun & Public Holidays 12:00 - 18:00

Ir Irish Tourist Assistance Service

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10 CUltUre

Concert venuesThe O2 D-2, East Link Bridge, North Wall Quay, Dublin 1, tel. 676 6170, www.theo2.ie. Taking up a corner in Dublin’s central docklands, the O2 is the long-overdue replacement to The Point Depot. Now with a capacity of 12,000 and what is described as “world class” acoustics, the Dublin O2 is already promising to be one of the best live music venues in Europe (as with its London equivalent).

National Concert Hall C-3, Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, tel. 417 0000, www.nch.ie. Originally the Exhibition Palace, this renowned venue was completed in 1865 and, over the years, has been used as a university, exhibition space and a WW11 turf store. Most university departments relocated in the 1960s, and the venue reverted to a concert hall in 1981. Home to the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra, the NCH comprises the Main Auditorium (cap. 1200), Carolan Room (cap. 100) and John Field Room (cap. 250) which has the largest chandelier ever designed and produced by Waterford Crystal. Check out the NCH’s programme of events, catch a lunchtime concert for some cultural sustenance then grab a bite to eat at the Terrace Cafe.. Q JK

RDS (Royal Dublin Society) Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, tel. 668 0866, www.rds.ie. Over the years this colossus of a venue has staged many stellar performances with U2, Paul McCartney, Pavarotti, Michael Flatley and two Eurovision Song Contests wowing the crowds - though not at the same time, you understand. The RDS is spread across four facili-ties: the Concert Hall (cap. 900), Main Hall (3000 - 5000), Simmonscourt Pavilion (up to 7000) and RDS Stadium (over 35000). Its versatility is such that it also regularly hosts key shows, conferences and sporting events.

CinemaLight House Cinema Market Square, Smithfield, Dublin 7 tel. 879 7601www.lighthousecinema.ie Ireland has one of the highest per-capita cinema-going populations in Europe, so it’s high time this beacon of independent cinema made a return. The Light House closed down over ten years ago only to rise, phoenix-like, from its new home in trendy Smithfield. Boasting an impressive sound system and pristine décor, this four-screen arthouse cinema provides a more Darwinian approach to programming - old and new films from around the world are shown for as long as they’re drawing a crowd. A café adds to the laidback ambience and membership is not required.

Savoy A landmark on Dublin’s famous O’Connell St, this is the oldest remaining cinema in the city centre. It’s “Savoy 1” is the largest screen in the country and is used regularly for premiers and gala evenings. With its velvet drapes and red comfy chairs set in stadium style, it is reminiscent of old-school Hollywood glamour. The opening and closing gala nights of the Dublin International film Festival take place here with both Hollywood and home-grown stars sashaying up the crimson carpet. It is now part of the Omniplex chain - the largest in the country.

Screen Beside Trinity College is this landmark 60s cinema and sister to the Savoy on O’Connell St. Originally a single screen cinema it was tripled in size in the 1980s. Blockbust-ers can run here longer than in other cinemas so don’t fret if you think you’ve missed that must-see. The Screen also plays some favourite alternative movies rarely shown in larger cin-emas. It’s another favourite venue for the Dublin International Film Festival and is also part of the Omniplex chain.

See also Temple Bar (p.54) for more culture listings

Get your star radar out for the 7th Jameson Dublin International Film Festival when, from Thur 12 - Sun 22 Feb, a healthy sprinkling of Hollywood super-stars hi ts town for this annual celluloid shindig.Big names alread y confirmed are Bri t ish actor Clive Owen, Irish Hollywood starlet Saoirse Ronan, hear t-throb Colin Fir th (aka Mr. Darcy), Dublin-born Brendan Gleeson and Nor thern Irish actor Liam Neeson – who will introduce his latest flick, Five Minutes From Heaven.Over 130 films from across the world, including many featuring emerging Irish talent, will be show-cased. And running alongside the screenings will be lectures, Q&A sessions and workshops on the craft of film making. Look out, too, for the Dublin City Libraries over-55’s Film Quiz and the presentation of the Write Here Write Now Screenwriting Award, in association with Walt Disney Motion Pictures.Eight venues, including the IFI, Lighthouse Cinema and big-name ci ty and suburb cinemas, will roll out the red carpet for Dublin’s dedicated cinephiles.Festival sponsors the Old Jameson Distillery are also offering visi tors 10% off entry to the Distillery with their cinema ticket.For lots more in fo on the Festi val’s f i lms, talks and awards, and to buy tickets for all screenings and events, visi t the Festival Box Office, Filmbase, Curved St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel: 672 8861, www.jdiff.com.

Dublin Film Festival


11CUltUre & sPort

TheatresAbbey Theatre C-2, 26 Lower Abbey St, Dublin 1, tel. 878 7222, fax 872 9177, [email protected], www.abbeytheatre.ie. Dating back to 1904, Ireland’s National Theatre was reopened by President Eamon De Valera at its current site over six decades later. Its remit has always been to promote Irish culture and plays alongside international works, and indeed one of its founders was WB Yeats. Many more acclaimed Irish playwrights have been involved with the theatre over the years, including George Bernard Shaw, JM Synge (whose work The Playboy of the Western World invoked nationalistic riots in 1907), O’Casey, Wilde, Friel and Heaney. The theatre’s fortunes have ebbed and flowed over the years, but a recent revamp and state subsidy have ensured its continued presence at the heart of Dublin’s theatreland. The Abbey is four storeys high and seats 492 theatregoers. It has two auditoriums and a studio space , The Peacock Theatre, which seats 157 and is dedicated to new plays and contemporary classic drama. Q J

Draiocht The Blanchardstown Centre, Dublin 15, tel. 885 2622. www.draiocht.ie Since opening in 2001,Drao-icht (Irish for ‘magic’) has transformed the cultural life of the Dublin 15. Ireland’s largest purpose-built arts centre, Draoicht is located just 7 miles from Dublin City Centre and has over 6500 free parking spaces. More than 50,000 people a year visit this cultural hub to enjoy drama, music, comedy and dance performances. And thousands more attend the two exhibition galleries which feature works by national and international art-ists. The funky Bar and ‘Betelnut Café are also big hits when patrons are feeling peckish. Draíocht is fully accessible and aspires to reach as wide an audience as possible. With well over one third of Dublin 15’s population under 15, the Centre provides outreach and education programmes to children and families, placing Draíocht firmly in the heart of its community. The week-long annual children’s arts festival ‘Spréacha’, meaning ‘Sparkles’, is now in its fifth successful year and caters for well over 3000 children. With a programme that’s entertaining, exciting and, at times, challenging and provoca-tive, this venue is well worth a trip beyond the city limits. Open Mon-Sat 10:00 - 18:00,

Gaiety Theatre B-2, South King St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 5622, www.gaietytheatre.ie. The Grand Old Lady of South King Street opened in Nov 1871 and is Dublin’s longest-established theatre in continuous production. Many greats have graced its stage from Pavlova to Pavarotti, Julie Andrews to Jack Benny - an indication of the theatre’s eclectic and music-based programme. On weekend festival nights the bars open and revellers party til the wee hours. In 1971 an audience of 400m watched the Eurovision Song Contest transmitted live from its auditorium - the first Eurovision to be held in Ireland marked RTE’s earliest colour transmission of an indoor event. Pass by the Gaiety any evening and you’ll find theatregoers chatting outside in animated anticipation of night’s performance. Q J

Gate Theatre B-2, 1 Cavendish Row, Dublin 1, tel. 874 4085, www.gate-theatre.ie. Although the building is over 200 years old, the theatre was only founded here in 1928. Leading playwrights such as Samuel Beckett, Brian Friel and Harold Pinter have all had works premiered and performed here. In 1991 The Gate was the world’s first theatre to show-case all Beckett’s nineteen stage plays. It has also staged four Harold Pinter festivals and premiered many of Brian Friel’s plays over the past 40 years. As this was not a custom-built theatre, delivered sets have to be cut up and reassembled inside. To bring it into the next century, over €6m is being spent on a new wing. Q J

SportFootball Association of Ireland (FAI) C-2/3, 80 Merrion Square, Dublin 8, tel. 703 7500, www.fai.ie. The League of Ireland began in 1921 when Republic of Ireland clubs split from the Irish League (administered from Belfast). Football in Ireland is run by the Football Association of Ireland and the League of Ireland. If talking football with locals, don’t get confused with Gaelic Football. The Eircom League runs March-Nov, with the Cup Final in Dec. Dublin’s three Premier League clubs are:Bohemians: Dalymount Pk, Phibbsborough, Dublin 7, tel. 868 0923/1034, www.boh.ie. Premier League Champions and FAI Cup holders. Ireland’s oldest team, aka The Gypsies.Shamrock Rovers: Tolka Pk, Drumcondra, Dublin, tel. 460 5948, www.shamrockrovers.ie. Formed 1901, aka The Hoops. The most successful team in Irish football history (though not lately). St. Patrick’s Athletic: Richmond Pk, 125 Emmet Rd, Inchicore, Dublin 8, tel. 454 6332, www.stpatsfc.com. Premier League runners-up. Founded 1929, aka The Saints. While awaiting Lansdowne Road’s stadium upgrade, the Republic of Ireland’s national squad plays home matches at Croke Park. The team’s finest hour was when they beat Italy in New York during the 1994 World Cup Finals under esteemed manager Jackie Charlton (veteran of England’s 1966 World Cup winning squad and honorary Irishman).

Gaelic Games and Croke Park - see p.44.

Leinster Rugby RDS, 55 Main St, Donnybrook, Dublin 4, tel. 269 3224, www.leinsterrugby.ie. Leinster is one of the four Irish provinces that play rugby union in the Magners League (Sept-May) and Heineken Cup (Oct-May), tthe others being Ulster, Munster and Connaught. The team plays home games in the grounds of the RDS (Royal Dublin Society) and their star player is Ireland’s Brian O’Driscoll.

On Bank Holiday Mon 4 May, an estimated 15,000 runners will take par t in the 2009 Deep River-Rock Belfast City Marathon. The route begins at Bel fast Ci ty Hall, ends at Ormeau Park and takes in every par t of the ci ty, wi th thousands of spectators lining the streets to cheer on competi tors. Whether a dedicated athlete or marathon rookie, now’s the time to turn your running dreams into reality. You have between now and 17 April 09 to enter at www.bel-fastcitymarathon.com. Overnighters should also check out the ci ty’s two centrally located Premier Inns for great value rates and post-marathon parties. As well as experiencing the euphoria at completing the 26+mile circui t, par ticipants can also turn their accomplishment into money for chari ty. Choose your own chari ty or donate your winnings to 2009’s nominated chari ty - the Cystic Fibrosis Trust, www.cftrust.org.uk. Male and female athletes who break the course records set by local athlete Marty Deane (2:15:51) in 1985 and Ethiopia’s Marashet Jumma (2:39:22) just last year will win a £1000 bonus. And, even i f you’re not aiming to break the tape, fun runs, walks, relays and the wheelchair marathon ensure everyone can take par t in the ci ty’s ul timate spor t-ing showpiece.

Befast Marathon 2009


12 st. PAtriCk’s CeleBrAtionsAs Saints go, they don’t get much bigger than St. Patrick. He’s the iconic figure millions of green-gilded pilgrims honour every March 17 with parties, parades and a fair few pints. And, as celebratory locations go, you’ve played a blinder choosing Dublin.New York may have the glamour, Chicago the green river and Sydney the sunshine, but you can’t beat Ireland's capital city for sheer spirit, absolute authenticity and unadulterated revelry. This year’s St. Patrick’s Festival takes over the city's streets and squares from 12 - 17 March.To find out what's on where, here’s our handy guide to the greenest show in town. Lots more info will be available as the event nears, so keep checking www.stpatricksfestival.ie for updates. Shamrocks on stand-by for the St. Patrick’s Day of your life...

FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS

Thur 12 March: Opening Night Spectacle. Head to the city centre for colourful parades, music and dance designed to get the party started with a bang. For more info, click www.stpatricksfestival.ie.

Sat 14 March: The Treasure Hunt. Search for clues scattered across the city centre in this ever-popular free adult-only event. It’s a great way to explore Dublin and, if you’re lucky, bag some precious booty. The scavenge starts from the City Hall. Pre-register online to beat the queues.

Sun 15 March: Big Day Out. Clowns, street performers, acrobats, live music and, if last year was anything to go by (though we're promising nothing), a tap dancing turkey take over gentrified Merrion Square ahead of the Pat's even bigger Day. Entrance to this family friendly event is free.

Tues 17 March: ST. PATRICK’S DAY PARADEInspired by the theme The Sky's The Limit, floats, giant figures, marching bands and participants from around the world take part in this spectacular two hour procession led by the VIP Grand Marshall. Tens of thousands of goggle-eyed party-goers - many a vision in green - will be in the city to soak up to this fabulous carnival atmosphere.On St. Patrick’s Day, Dublin Lord Mayor Cllr. Eibhlin Byrne) outranks Taoiseach Brian Cowen (usually in the USA), and President Mary McAleese. The President and Lord Mayor will be watching the parade from O'Connell Street's VIP Grandstand opposite the GPO. If you're early enough to get a nearby standing spot, give them a wave from your kerbside perch. Or apply now for a €60 ticket and you, too, can rub shoulders with Ireland's good and great. Enjoy the show!

Many legends surround the world’s best known patron saint. But what is known about the real St. Patrick?Patrick was from Bannavem Taberniae, a 5th Century Roman Briton settlement. No-one knows exactly where this was, but several English, Scottish and Welsh sites lay claim including Somerset, Dumbartonshire and Holyhead.Though his father was a deacon, and grandfather a priest, the young Patrick showed no religious conviction. Aged 16, Patrick was captured and brought to Ireland as a slave. He is said to have found God while tending sheep on Co. Antrim’s Slemish Mountain. Many scholars, however, now believe he was brought to Co. Mayo. Regardless of conflicting stories, every St. Patrick’s Day pilgrims climb 437m to the summit of Slemish - a 60million-year-old volcanic plug 48km from Belfast. Patrick escaped to Britain six years later but, after spending around 20 years in Europe, heard voices calling him back to Ireland. This time, he arrived via the mouth of Co. Down’s Strangford Lough and built his first church at nearby Saul. A church stands there today, markingmthe original site chosen by Patrick.Patr ick travel led I re land - most l y the nor th and west - converting the Irish people to Christianity. His autobiographical text - Confessio - survives to this day, and elements of this important work, as well as St. Patrick’s story told by 7th Century scribes, form part of the 9th Century Book of Armagh - held at Trinity College’s Old Library in a specially designed exhibition area

Patrick is said to have died at Saul on March 17 493AD and is reputed to be buried at Down Cathedral in Downpatrick, Co. Down. As part of his missionary work, he used Pagan symbolism, most notably the shamrock and the banishing of the snakes from Ireland. Snakes were a metaphor for the devil and the shamrock’s three leaves symbolised the holy trinity. Legend also suggests Patrick designed the Celtic Cross by uniting the Pagan symbol of the moon with the Christian cross. The first St. Patrick’s Day celebrations weren’t in Ireland, but in Boston in 1737. Nearly two decades later - and 16 years before Independence - Irish soldiers in the English military commemorated their culture and common bond with a St. Patrick’s Day celebration in New York. The city’s first parade was in 1762, and today around 2m people line the famous 5th Avenue route.Over the years, St. Patrick’s Day Stateside has been used by politicians to lobby for Irish votes. On March 17 you’ll find the Irish Prime Minister hobnobbing with Mr. President at the White House, and other Irish political figures popping across the pond for a bit of tactical shamrock waving.St. Patrick’s Day is also a public holiday in Canada’s Newfoundland and the Caribbean island of Montserrat where, ironically, it marks not only the island’s strong Irish lineage, but also its unsuccessful slave uprising against the Irish settlers. St. Patrick’s Day is celebrated in cities as diverse as Tokyo, Munich, Moscow and Buenos Aires But, as well as Ireland, it’s in the US and Canada where this patron saint is really ’at home’.

Will the real St. Patrick please stand up?


13st. PAtriCk’s CeleBrAtions

Over 250 entertainers will congregate at St. James’s Gate to celebrate another distinctly Irish Saint’s special day. The Guinness Storehouse always attracts a horde of devotees of the black stuff in town to pay homage to St. Patrick. And green gilded pilgrims should make haste for the brewery’s seven-storey showpiece and revel in the eclectic musical line-up on Tues 17 March.The atrium, rooms and Gravity Bar will resonate to the sounds of rock, soul, roots, swing, jazz and traditional Irish, and international street performers and marching bands will up the family-friendly party atmosphere.All events and activities are included in the standard admission price, making this one unmissable Paddy’s Day Party. To find out more about the Guinness Storehouse, including opening hours and prices, see p.53.

St. Patrick’s Day at the Guinness Storehouse

PARADE ROUTEThe parade leaves Parnell Square North at 12:00 and snakes its way along O’Connell Street and across the River Liffey. It then turns right at Trinity College and shimmies along Dame Street - past the City Hall and Christ Church Cathedral - before turning left onto Nicholas St and culminating at Saint Patrick’s Cathedral. Get there early to secure a space. And check ahead for info on designated coach and car parking places to ensure you beat the traffic.

Tues 17 March: Céilí MórJoin thousands of fellow hoofers as the city centre is transformed into the world’s largest outdoor Irish music and dance fiesta. Foot twirling is positively encouraged as novices and professionals give into their inner Flatley at this uniquely Irish event.

Th r o u g h o u t the Festival, Féilé Gaeilge, a c i t y - w i d e c e l e b r a t i o n o f t h e I r i s h language, will promote Gaelic t h r o u g h a n informal series of workshops and entertainment. For more details, tel. 676 3205 or visit the official Festival website at www.stpatricksday.ie. And don’t forget to check the city’s cultural venues for big name performances and inspired events in town over the St. Patrick’s weekend.

STPATRICK’SFESTIVAL200912TH–17TH MARCH 2009

www.stpatricksfestival.ie

CULTÚR+CRAIC FAMILYCOMEDY SPECTACLEMUSIC FILM


14 where to stAyAs befits a cosmopolitan capital city, Dublin has a diverse range of accommodation options. Scan through these below and you should find one to suit your artistic and financial tastes. And always check ahead for special rates and online deals. In these current economic times, many are offering fantastic value rooms, especially off-season. All star ratings reflect those given by Fáilte Ireland - the Irish Tourist Board.

5 StarClarence B-2, 6-8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2, tel. 407 0800, fax 407 0820, [email protected], www.theclarence.ie. Owned by Bono & The Edge of U2 this world-famous hotel fringes Temple Bar and overlooks the River Liffey. Individually designed rooms have Shaker-style furniture and come in a calming palette of crimson, royal blue, amethyst, gold and chocolate ‘signature tones’. The Penthouse has its own outdoor Hot Tub and the Garden Terrace Suites are well worth the splash... not least for their magnificent views. Under an octagon-shaped dome, the bar is always abuzz with excited imbibers. The Tea Rooms allow you to indulge in fine cuisine, while the Study is a perfect spot to relax and read the newspaper. With The Kitchen nightclub downstairs, all your laid-back and playtime needs are catered for at this iconic rock landmark. Q49 rooms (singles €199 - 370, doubles €199 - 370, suites €760 - 2700). Continental Breakfast €20.50. Full Irish Breakfast €27.50. JHFK hhhhh

Conrad Hilton C-3, Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, tel. 602 8900, fax 676 5424, [email protected], www.conraddublin.com. Located opposite the National Concert Hall, this classic contemporary hotel is within walking distance of most of Dublin’s sights and attractions - just a swift stroll to St. Stephen’s Green sees you in the centre of town. Calming muted tones dominate the bright rooms, and the Presidential Suite is pure indulgence with fabulous views, large plasma screen, home cinema option and dining room for up to 12 lucky guests. A cocktail bar - and Alex restaurant specialising in seafood - are on the ground floor. And during summer, the traditional Alfie Burn’s Irish bar lays on open air BBQs which are very popular with locals and guests. Q192 rooms (singles €235 - 420, doubles €235 - 420, suites €255 - 750). Continental Breakfast €21, Full Irish Breakfast €24. JHFKW hhhhh

Four Seasons Hotel D-3, Simmonscourt Rd, Dublin 4, tel. 665 4000, fax 665 4099, [email protected], www.fourseasons.com. In the leafy Embassy-strewn suburb of Ballsbridge, this six storey red-brick hotel sits majestically in the grounds of the Royal Dublin Society. The Four Seasons is a stalwart of Dublin society and, as befits its stature, plays host to numerous charity balls. The ICE bar is for sipping champagne and cocktails, while Seasons Restaurant is the stomping ground of Dublin’s power players. Indeed, you could say the salubrious nature of the neighbour-hood is reflected in the clientele. Rooms and suites are equally elegant, and the Spa is a tranquil oasis in which to repose and reflect on your fabulous surroundings. Q197 rooms (singles €225 - 500, suites €400 - 2600). Continental Breakfast €21, Full Irish Breakfast €29. HFKDC hhhhh

Merrion Hotel C-3, Upper Merrion St, Dublin 2, tel. 603 0600, fax 603 0700, www.merrionhotel.com. Cre-ated from four Grade A listed Georgian Houses, one being the Duke of Wellington’s birthplace, this beautifully restored building boasts bright, antique-filled rooms and a modern wing overlooking a private garden. If staying here, invest in the rooms facing onto the Dáil. A three star Michelin restaurant,

trompe l’oile swimming pool and two reception rooms with fantastic sofas in which to sit and enjoy a glass of wine, makes The Merrion a particularly romantic idyll. And connoisseurs will be pleased to learn that a French vineyard makes wine exclusively for the hotel, and the extensive art collection is privately owned by one of the three owners. There’s no ramp, but the doormen will carry your luggage up the steps. Q142 rooms (singles €450 - 470, doubles €470 - 495, suites €880 - 2695). Continental Breakfast €22, Full Irish Breakfast €27. JHFKCWhhhhh

Shelbourne Renaissance Hotel B-2, 27 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, tel. 663 4500, fax 661 6006, [email protected], www.marriott.com. Im-merse yourself in what many people consider to be the Dublin hotel. It’s certainly a city landmark of the finest order, with a tip-top location and history-laden ambience. Built in 1824, room 112 - The Constitution Room - is where the 1922 Irish Constitution was drafted. A recent restoration has brought this grand old lady back to her original splendour. Real log fires burn contentedly in the grates as you enjoy a cocktail in No. 27 Bar and Lounge or pint of Guinness in the famous, traditional Horseshoe Bar. Many of the suites are named after previous guests - most notably Princess Grace - and The Shelbourne Club and Heavenly Spa soothe the senses after your shopping and sightseeing onslaught. Afternoon tea in the Lord Mayor’s Lounge (15:00 - 1730) is a must if you want to immerse yourself in a recaptured era of high society Georgian Dublin. For all its opulence, the Shelbourne is always welcoming and never aloof. Visit, stay, enjoy. Q265 rooms (singles €219 - 299, doubles €219 - 349, triples €229 - 349, suites €399 - 2500). Continental Breakfast €25, Full Irish Breakfast €29. JHFK hhhhh

Westbury B-2, Grafton St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 1122, fax 679 7078, [email protected], www.doylecollection.com. Just off the shopping mecca that is Grafton Street - but far enough not to hear the noise - the Westbury is one of the Leading Hotels of the World and the closest comfy bed you can get to Brown Thomas. The hotel has the best make-up counter in Dublin and the bathrooms stock Aveda goodies. From duck down duvets to iPod docks, each room aims to please even the most jaded traveller... and so they should in one of Dublin’s best hotels. Perch at the Gallery Lounge with its grand granite fireplace and people watch to your heart’s content. Relaxed and comfortable, this is an ideal and enduring luxury city retreat. Q205 rooms (singles €235 - 435, doubles €235 - 435, suites €439 - 1750). Continental Breakfast €23. Full Irish Breakfast €28. JHK hhhhh

Westin Dublin B-2, College Green, Westmoreland St, Dublin 2, tel. 645 1000, fax 645 1234, [email protected], www.westin.com. Walk into this historic building and luxurious hotel and discover its dra-matic five-storey, glass-roofed atrium lounge, overlooked by many guest rooms and reminiscent of a gentrified Georgian courtyard. Indulge yourself with an in-room spa treatment, sink into a unique Westin Heavenly Bed or book yourself a WestinWORKOUT room with its very own mini-gym. And if

H Conference facilities

L Parking F Fitness centre

K Restaurant J City centre location

D Sauna C Swimming pool

Symbol key


15where to stAy

Gresham Hotel B-2, 23 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 874 6881, fax 878 7175, [email protected], www.gresham-hotels.com. This imposing hotel on Dublin’s most famous street has had many famous guests, including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, President Eisenhower and Princess Grace. Having recently been refurbished, it now is a mixture of modern elegance and old world charm. Its com-fortable Writers Bar is the perfect spot to sit and chat while enjoying a bite to eat. The mince pies and tea on a winter’s afternoon are wonderful. Q288 rooms (singles €350 - 400, doubles €550 - 600, suites €1000 - 2500). Continental Break-fast €20, Full Irish Breakfast €25. JHK hhhh

Hilton Charlemont Place B-3, Charlemont Place, Dublin 2, tel. 402 9988, fax 402 9966, [email protected], www.hilton.co.uk. This modern hotel overlooking the historic Grand Canal is beside a LUAS stop and just minutes from Grafton St. Its location is reflected in the aptly-named Waterfront restaurant, so make haste when the sun shines for the outdoor seating area and enjoy good Irish food with a view. Business and leisure travellers are well catered for, and children will love the in-room Sony Playsta-tions. Even better, under 18s stay free in parents’ room and under 11s eat free from the children’s menu. A nice, leafy location close to town. Q193 rooms (singles €110 - 220, doubles €110 - 220). Continental Breakfast €14.54. Full Irish Breakfast €19.54. JK hhhh

Jurys Hotel Croke Park C-1, Croke Park Stadium, Jones’s Road, Dublin 3, tel. 871 4444, fax 871 4400, www.jurys-dublin-hotels.com. Facing onto Croke Park Stadium, this big, new pristine hotel is greared up for busi-ness execs, but is also the place to be on match day as you soak up the excitement and anticipation in the Sideline Bar and Bistro. And, as it’s just 10mins walk from O’Connell St,

all that sounds too dreamy for words, get fresh at the great fun Mint Bar - located in the former bank vaults and recently crowned Style Bar of the year. And the chandelier-strewn ceiling of the grand Banking Hall (the hotel was once the Allied Irish Bank) would have you believe you’re part of a period drama. Q163 rooms (singles €209 - 489, doubles €209 - 489, suites €324 - 2600). Continental Breakfast €19, Full Irish Breakfast €25. JHFK hhhhh

UpmarketBrooks Hotel B-2, 59-63 Drury St, Dublin 2, tel. 670 4000, fax 670 4455, [email protected], www.brookshotel.ie. Winner of Business Hotel of 2007 and a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, this is a boutique hotel exuding warmth and friendliness. Use your room key to access the French oak panelled residents lounge where you can leaf through fine books and phone up to the bar to place your orders. Francesca’s restaurant and Jasmine Bar both open onto the bright and airy foyer, and occasionally resonate with the sounds of the in-house pianist. With a pil-low menu to choose from, comfort is key. And if you’d like to watch a private movie they even have a 26-seater screening room. Q98 rooms (doubles €140 - 385, suites €280 - 400). Continental Breakfast €13.50. Full Irish Breakfast €19.95. JHFKD hhhh

Buswells Hotel C-2, Molesworth St, Dublin 2, tel. 614 6500, fax 676 2090, [email protected], www.quinnhotels.com. Opposite the Dáil, The National Museum and The National Library this is a quiet, relaxed hotel spread across five connecting Georgian houses. Politicians can be found enjoying lunch in its fine restaurant or having a drink in the evening chatting about events of the day. Elegant and warm furnishings make this an ideal hotel in which to chill out, and the comfy rooms with original features make it a great place for that rose-mantic citybreak. All prices include break-fast. Q67 rooms (singles €140 - 288, doubles €140 - 288, triples €160 - 300, suites €190 - 338). JHFK hhh

Central Hotel B-2, 1 Exchequer St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 7302, fax 679 7303, [email protected], www.centralhoteldublin.com. Designed by the same architect responsible for the Bank of Ireland on Dame St, this gem of a hotel dates back to 1887 and - for all you metal fans - is made entirely from reinforced cast iron. Dubliners are frequently seen mingling with guests in its soothingly luxurious space or imbibing in The Ross & Walpole Bar, named after the hotel’s builders. The Library Bar transports you to the 1800s with its high-backed chairs and occasional tables. Around the corner from Trinity College, the Central oozes history and is the perfect city retreat. Q JHEK hhh

Clarion Hotel Liffey Valley Liffey Valley, Dublin 22, tel. 625 8005, fax 625 8010, [email protected], www.clariondublinliffeyvalley.com. This purpose-built spacious and modern hotel is very comfortable and well thought-out, with a separate and extremely well-equipped Conference & Events Centre. The large gym and pool areas are a bonus and there’s even a separate pool for children. The rooms feel quite large and even the three-bed family rooms are spacious. Although a modern hotel, it still retains a homely feel with muted colours and warm lighting making it a relaxed and enjoyable place to stay. Q252 rooms (singles €89 - 270, doubles €89 - 270, triples €89 - 270, suites €119 - 300, apartments €119 - 300). Continental Breakfast €11.50, Full Irish Breakfast €16. HFKDC hhhh


16


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exudes innovative style from the foyer’s four-poster bed coffee table to the Philippe Stark baths in every room. The opulent and award-winning Crystal Bar has DJs on Friday & Saturday nights, and My Thai restaurant runs a jazz brunch every Sunday. With the Luas just three minutes away you are in town before you know it. The M50, Leopardstown Race Course and Dundrum - Europe’s Largest Shopping Centre - are also within very easy reach. Check out the Chill Out Packages and short and long-stay apartments for that truly indulgent experience. Q88 rooms (singles €110 - 350, doubles €110 - 350, suites €300 - 500). Continental Breakfast €13.95. Full Irish Breakfast €19.95. HEK hhhh

Bentleys Oyster Bar & Grill Dublin B-2, 22 St Ste-phens Green, Dublin 2, tel. 638 3939, fax 638 3900, [email protected], www.bentleysdublin.com. Originally one house demolished in 1790, Nos. 22 and 23 were built in its place. In 1997 Barry Canny bought it with a dream to have a country house in the city and this is exactly how it feels. Today Bentleys is owned by chef Richard Cor-rigan and is part of the Bentleys London, Lindsay house and Corrigans’ Mayfair family. It has been stylishly refurbished while still keeping its original charm and character. The high ornate ceilings, wooden shutters, marble fireplaces, views of St Stephens Green and overall luxury make you feel at home in a very grand country house. And the individually designed rooms are a successful old/new blend of stunning antiques and state-of-the-art accessories. All this, and the Oyster Bar and Champagne Lounge are two of the city’s best. Q10 rooms (singles €165 - 175, doubles €200 - 220). Continental Breakfast €12, Full Irish Breakfast €18. JKW

Dylan Hotel C-3, Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4, tel. 660 3000, fax 660 3005, [email protected], www.dylan.ie. This is so elegantly designed that you could be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped onto a movie set. Luxury, sophistica-tion and glamour are everything this hotel is about, and it pulls them all off with impeccable ease. Distinctly designed intimate rooms feature state-of-the-art extras such as MP3 players, Bang & Olufsen cordless phones and under-floor heated bathrooms. Whether sitting outside on the terraces, or unwinding in Still restaurant or the Dylan Bar, you’ll instantly chill out as you escape the bustle of the city and wrap yourself in this utterly divine experience. Winning Best Boutique Hotel 2008 and Best New Hotel in 2007 the Dylan is definitely a treat. Q44 rooms (singles €210 - 395, doubles €210 - 440, suites €440 - 800). Price: Continental Breakfast €21,Full Irish Breakfast €27. HBK hhhhh

Fitzwilliam Hotel B-2, St. Stephens Green, Dublin 2, tel. 478 7000, fax 478 7878, [email protected], www.fitzwilliamhotel.com. Designed by Sir Terence Conran in his famous sleek style, this smart hotel is located at the top of Grafton Street, opposite St Stephen’s Green. Its two star Michelin restaurant Thornton’s overlooks the Green, making for a luxurious dining experience. Downstairs the bar has relaxed chairs and some very comfy booths... great for those evenings when you feel like a bit of ‘me-time’. The stylish bedrooms come with fresh flowers, fab views and subtle lighting. From its quiet library in the lobby to Ireland’s largest roof garden, this is one hotel where you can simply be yourself. Q139 rooms (doubles €260 - 440, suites €500 - 695). Continental Breakfast €19. Full Irish Breakfast €24. JHFK hhhhh

La Stampa Hotel & Spa B-2, 35 Dawson St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 4444, fax 677 4411, www.lastampa.ie. This 19th Century Georgian Townhouse was reborn in 1990 as a restaurant, then evolved to incorporate this seriously hip boutique retreat. Its exotic eastern theme was styled by

all the major attractions are reassuringly convenient. Self-styled Rejuvenate beds and duck down duvets soothe you into a blissful slumber and - wait for it ladies - skirt hangers ensure your power suits stay crease-free. Bathrooms have separate baths and showers, and underfloor heating to keep toes toasty warm - nice touch. With wifi in the public areas and executive rooms, and free car parking for all guests, this is one upmarket overnight option well worth a peep. Q232 rooms (singles €149 - 309, doubles €149 - 309, triples €149 - 309, suites €450 - 600). Full Irish Breakfast €20.50, Continental Breakfast €20.50. HFK hhhh

Radisson SAS Royal Hotel B-2, Golden Lane, Dublin 8, tel. 898 2900, fax 898 2901, [email protected], www.radissonsas.com. This newly built hotel, near St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Merrion Square, has successfully adopted the Radisson chain’s signature chic Scandinavian style. The rooms are a study in minimal-ism making for a very calming post-sightseeing snooze. Rule a country? Why not opt for the roomy 6th floor Presidential Suite with private lift and access to the rooftop terrace? The hotel’s a very relaxing place for a drink or two... the sumptu-ous surroundings cocoon you from the outside action... and its newcomer status should ensure a thoroughly chilled out evening. Get here quick... this hotel is destined to become a leader in its field. Rooms include breakfast. Q150 rooms (doubles €170 - 350, triples €210 - 390, suites €230 - 410). JHK hhhh

BoutiqueBeacon Beacon Court, Sandyford, Dublin 18, tel. 291 5000, fax 291 5005, [email protected], www.thebeacon.com. Set in the John Rocha-designed Beacon Court business and residential centre, this very hip hotel

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designer du jour Miguel Cancio Martins whose work also includes Raffles in Singapore and Johnny Depp’s Man Ray Bar/Restaurant in LA. The bedrooms’ attention to detail is stunning, with the Moroccan Suite a vision in earthy tones and bejewelled adornments. The restaurants are just as al-luring as the boudoirs... Balzac is swathed in light and feels like a Parisienne café Edit Piaf would have frequented, Tiger Becs Thai restaurant evokes a richer, more opulent vibe and SamSara Cafe Bar continues the signature Moroccan theme. And, as if all that wasn’t spoiling you enough, the hotel’s in-house Mandala Spa offers Eastern treatments practised by Asian therapists... we’re particularly loving the Himalayan rose bath. Located opposite the Lord Mayor’s Mansion House, the chances of getting a taxi are high (always a good thing in this city). La Stampa is a city stand-out and, not surprisingly, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Q30 rooms (singles €150 - 260, suites €250 - 700). Continental Breakfast €14.95, Full Irish Breakfast €14.95. JK hhhh

Morrison Hotel B-2, Ormond Quay, Dublin 1, tel. 887 2400, fax 878 3185, [email protected], www.mor-risonhotel.ie. Originally designed by John Rocha, and opened in 1999 to great acclaim, the Irish style guru used Feng Shui to create the rooms. It was one of the first hotels in Dublin to epitomise modern sleek styling. And now, after a major extension adding 48 rooms, a courtyard and spa, the hotel is, more than ever, the epitome of urban chic. For pure bedroom indulgence, dock your iPod, slip into the fluffy bathrobe and drape yourself across the hand-painted Rocha throw. For dining and drinking, the Café Bar is a great place to enjoy an afternoon coffee or evening cocktails. And the Halo restau-rant - with its own entrance - is full of antiques and opens onto the Bohemian Courtyard. You feel cool just hanging out here. Q138 rooms (singles €165 - 355, doubles €165 - 415, suites €265 - 2000). Continental Breakfast €16.50, Full Irish Breakfast €21.50. JHK hhhh

Trinity Capitol Hotel C-2, Pearse St, Dublin 2, tel. 648 1000, fax 648 1010, [email protected], www.trinitycapitalhotel.com. This hotel was built with design and style in mind. Each area is lit differently tand, as a result, exudes warmth and atmosphere. Top floor bedrooms have views of the grounds of Trinity College. And the Georgian Suites with their high ceilings and fireplaces are well worth the extra spend. Car parking is available at €10 per 24hrs or part thereof. Q175 rooms (singles €109 - 275, doubles €109 - 275, triples €109 - 275, suites €159 - 352). Continental Breakfast €13. Full Irish Breakfast €15. JHLK hhh

Mid-RangeAlexander Hotel C-3, Fenian St, off Merrion Square, Dublin 2, tel. 607 3700, fax 607 3579, [email protected], www.ocallaghanhotels.com. Al-though a recent hotel, it has been built sympathetically to the Georgian surroundings. Inside, its round tower façade hides a contemporary design with warm colour palettes. The staff are friendly and really do make your stay very pleasant. Close to Trinity and the IFSC - it’s particularly handy for business execs. Winners Bar is usually full of stylish folk chatting and enjoying the ambience. Q102 rooms (singles €165 - 400, doubles €165 - 400, triples €210 - 445, suites €265 - 500). Full Irish Breakfast €15.49. JHFK hhhh

Arlington Hotel Temple Bar B-2, Lord Edward St, Dublin 2, tel. 670 8777, fax 670 8787, [email protected], www.arlingtonhoteltemplebar.com. Right in the heat of Temple Bar, history, culture, arts and entertainment are all available with Christchurch and Dublin Castle on one side and Grafton St, Trinity College, Olympia

Theatre and all of Temple Bar’s Galleries on the other you’ll be spoilt for choice. All rooms are en-suite and newly renovated. The newly renovated Trattoria restaurant serves Italian fare and the Irish bar has a nightly show with an Irish dancing troupe. The first show is at 17:00 and you can just sit and have a drink and enjoy where you have to book in advance for the 21:00 show as dinner is included. Wifi is available in the public area. Q63 rooms (singles 70 - 175BGN, doubles 104 - 300BGN, Triple/Family 175 - 420BGN). Breakfast included. JK hhh

Best Western Academy Plaza Hotel C-2, Findlater Place, Off Upr O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 878 0666, fax 878 0600, [email protected], www.academy-plazahotel.ie. This newly rebuilt hotel is smart, inviting and slap bang in the city centre. All rooms have a distinctive red and black checked carpet and soft cream walls, and crisp linens on the super-comfort beds ensure a good night’s sleep is on the cards. The modern bar and two restaurants - Oscars for trad and contemporary and Abacus for elegant oriental dining - give this three star a culinary edge. Complimentary wifi, discounted guest parking and a gym and games room keep budgets in tact and boredom at bay. And golfing services can be booked for business groups or individuals who fancy getting tee’d off. The staff are very helpful and the location top notch... definitely one to check out. Q285 rooms (singles €99 - 209, doubles €109 - 319, triples €139 - 299, quads €159 - 319, suites €299 - 349, Twin €119 - 259). Breakfast €12. JHFK hhh

Burlington Hotel C-3, Upr Leeson St, Dublin 4, tel. 618 5600, fax 668 8086, [email protected], www.bur-lingtonhotel.ie. This grande dame of Dublin’s hotel scene is back following a major revamp and change in ownership to the Great Southern Hotel Group. All you need to know, however, is that the city centre’s largest hotel is close to Grafton Street, Stephen’s Green and all major sights and transport networks - sightseeing and airport buses stop on its doorstep. Hundreds of bedrooms range in status from suites to executive rooms, and the executive floor has fantastic views of the city and Dublin Mountains. The extensive conference facilities are a big hit with business types who also enjoy a tipple or two at the new Bellini bar. Locals love this hotel, too, and the public areas are usually filled with lots of chatter. Definitely worth a visit.Q400 rooms (singles €99 - 225, doubles €99 - 225, triples €124 - 249). Continental Breakfast €16.50, Full Irish Breakfast €20. JHFLK hhhh

Camden Court Hotel B-3, Lwr Camden Street, Dublin 2, tel. 475 9666, fax 475 9677, [email protected], www.camdencourthotel.com. Rest your weary limbs at this well-known city centre hotel. Only 3mins from St. Stephens Green, and 30secs from the Luas, there’s no doubting Camden Court’s closeness to every city centre whim (but not too close to Temple Bar if you crave some quiet). A 16m indoor heated pool and residents car parking are definite bonuses for such a great location. Feast at The Court restaurant, then treat yourself to a cocktail or two at C Central bar before heading ‘home’ to your refurbished con-temporary bedroom. Job’s a good ‘un. Q246 rooms (singles €105 - 185, doubles €105 - 185, triples €130 - 210, suites €200 - 500). Continental Breakfast €8. Full Irish Breakfast €10. JHFKDC hhh

Clarion Hotel Dublin IFSC C-2, International Financial Services Centre (IFSC), Dublin 1, tel. 433 8800, fax 433 8811, [email protected], www.clarionhotelifsc.ie. Light oak furnishings and neutral tones create a calming place to stay and sleep. Especially convenient for execs frequenting the Financial Services Centre... just stroll out the


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door and you’re there. Seal that deal by booking the fabulously cool penthouse for that important face-to-face - it could be the best investment you’ll ever make. And the adjacent one and two bedroom Clarion Quay Apartments allow you to create a more homely city base. The rooms at the front have great views along the River Liffey while at the all new Santé Médispa all your worries are massaged away. Q180 rooms (singles €140 - 285, doubles €140 - 285, suites €2000, apartments €280 - 385). Continental Breakfast €16. Full Irish Breakfast €21. JHFKDC hhhh

D4 Ballsbridge Inn Hotel off D-3, Pembroke Rd, Ballsbridge Dublin 4, tel. 668 4468, [email protected], www.d4hotels.com. We were unsure whether to put this hotel chain into budget or mid-range, but we’re plumping with the latter, springing as they have from the former Jury’s chain. They may have inherited a well-known brand, but D4’s philosophy is to sell low and sell lots. Which means you get fantastically located rooms for a fraction of normal Ballsbridge rates. The original grandeur may have faded, but you can’t beat these credit-crunching prices. A bus stop right outside connects you with the city and airport. Three names on one site, and a selection of dining and drinking options, offer a choice of accommodation and eating/drinking options - pe-ruse the website for more details and offersQ177 rooms from €37. LHK hhh

Davenport Hotel C-3, Merrion Square, Dublin 2, tel. 607 3500, fax 607 3541, [email protected], www.ocallaghanhotels.com. Just at the corner of Merrion Square, the façade of this landmark hotel was designed by Alfred Jones and dates from 1863. Originally a Gospel Hall, it was restored and opened as a hotel in the early 90’s with rich mahogany and warm leather furnishings adorning the bedrooms and conference suites. At weekends it’s wonderfully quiet, and you can just pop out the front door and stroll around Merrion Square enjoying art that local art-ists have on sale. A stone’s throw away from Grafton Street, you won’t have far to carry all your purchases. Q114 rooms (singles €165 - 400, doubles €165 - 400, triples €210 - 450, suites €265 - 500). Continental Breakfast €7. Full Irish Break-fast €15.49. JHF hhhh

Lansdowne Hotel D-3, 27/29 Pembroke Rd, Balls-bridge, Dublin 4, tel. 668 2522, fax 668 5585, [email protected], www.lansdownehotel.com. This charming family-owned Georgian residence, a stone’s throw from the sporting mecca of Lansdowne Road stadium, exudes traditional Irish charm, most notably with its Druid Restaurant, Den Bar and Irish House Party nights. The city centre is just 10mins on foot and the DART close enough for those out-of-town daytrips. Loads of nearby restaurants, parks and bars could keep you closer to base, however, to experience one of Dublin’s classiest neighbourhoods. Q40 rooms (singles €80 - 105, doubles €57 - 260, triples €44 - 280). Continental Breakfast: €8.50, Full Irish Breakfast: €12.50. HLE hhh

Morgan B-2, 10 Fleet St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 643 7000, fax 643 7060, [email protected], www.themorgan.com. This contemporary boutique hotel with minimalist furniture and a bright white interior is bang in the heart of bustling Temple Bar. Check out the penthouse with its own roof garden, fab views and Philipe Starck furni-ture. Or, for those of you staying in Dublin a little longer, treat yourselves to an equally stylish apartment. Ideally located for sightseeing and socialising, The Morgan is a great base for party people. And, as you can walk everywhere, you can kiss that elusive Dublin taxi goodbye. No bad thing. Q121 rooms (singles €150 - 270, doubles €190 - 270, Suites &

Apartments €250 - 350). Continental Breakfast €15, Full Irish Breakfast €18. JHEK hhhh

Park Inn B-2, Smithfield Village, Dublin 7, tel. 817 3800, fax 817 3839, [email protected], www.rezidorparkinn.com. Sitting pretty at a LUAS stop in Dublin’s latest cultural hub, and with Old Jameson Distillery across the road, this modern hotel is a great alternative location for city breakers. Its corridors are lit with subtle reds, and glass designer sinks adorn the bedrooms which also boast balconies overlooking Smithfield Square. Come the weekend you can watch from your lofty perch, then enjoy perusing Smithfield’s colourful flower, vegetable and - once a month - horse markets (though a purchase of the latter could prove tricky at Customs). The music bar is a great venue, and the adjoining viewing Chimney Tower (currently closed for main-tenance) is one of the city’s tallest landmarks. Q73 rooms (singles €89 - 135, doubles €89 - 135, suites €149 - 195). Breakfast €9.99. JHK hhh

Quality Hotel Dublin City C-2, Cardiff Lane, Sir John Rogerson’s Quay, Dublin 2, tel. 643 9500, fax 643 9510, [email protected], www.qualityhoteldublin-city.com. In the south docklands area and beside the River Liffey, this hotel has great views looking back towards the city. Furnishings in the wifi access public areas are minimal in style, but the rooms themselves are spacious and very comfortable. The fitness studio has complimentary classes for guests, and the heated swimming pool and hydra therapy room make this is a mid-range hotel with lots of extras. There’s live weekend music at the Vertigo bar and the hotel is within walking distance of most major day and night at-tractions. Q213 rooms (doubles €109 - 199, suites €139 - 229). Buffet & Full Irish Breakfast €15. JHFKDC hhhh

A unique place for you to stay

47- 48 Lower Gardiner StreetDublin 1, Ireland

Tel: +353 1 878 8808www.townhouseofdublin.com


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Royal Dublin Hotel B-2, O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 873 3666, fax 873 3120, [email protected], www.royaldublin.com. Set in Dublin’s oldest Georgian House (dat-ing back to 1752) and opened in 1971, this local landmark shares Dublin’s most famous street with the Spire, GPO and lots of traffic. The hotel’s two main calling cards are its location and free parking. Close to Temple Bar and many of Dublin’s sights, you can leave your car in the free residents underground parking lot on a first come first served basis and explore everything on foot. Owned by Best Western, the rooms are to a formula, though the light-strewn lobby lends a touch of luxury as befits its regal moniker. Q117 rooms (singles €89 - 275, doubles €89 - 275, triples €119 - 305). Full Irish Breakfast €10.95. JHK hhh

BudgetArlington House Hotel B-2, 23-25 Bachelors Walk, O’Connell Bridge, Dublin 1, tel. 804 9100, fax 804 9152, [email protected], www.arlington.ie. Overlooking the River Liffey, and just around the corner from O’Connell St, this very centrally located hotel is renowned for its themed shows. Knightly (their word, not ours) traditional music, Irish dancing and entertainment reflect the hotel’s medieval Irish theme. Book dinner in the 300-capacity bar and get the table for the night so you don’t miss a thing. Carvery lunches are served daily and the traditional Irish stew always hits the spot. River view rooms are extra and have to be requested in advance. They also have a freephone number if calling from outside Ire-land. Q131 rooms (singles €99 - 200, doubles €130 - 260, triples €150 - 300, quads €180 - 400). Continental Breakfast €7. Full Irish Breakfast €10.95. JHEK hhh

Blooms Hotel B-2, 6 Anglesea St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 671 5622, fax 671 5997, www.blooms.ie/con-tact_us.htm, www.blooms.ie. Named after Joyce’s main character in his epic Ulysses, this Temple Bar hotel is bang in the middle of all the action. Newly renovated and redeco-rated, its bustling bar serves food, shows sport on a large screen projector and hosts Irish Music sessions. A DJ also plays on Fri & Sat nights. Step outside and absorb the ambi-ence of Temple Bar and all its vitality. Breakfast is included in the rates - handy for soaking up all that night-before fun, if you see what we’re saying. Q100 rooms (singles €69 - 150, doubles €79 - 220, triples €99 - 280, twin €79 - 220). JHE hhh

Cassidys B-2, 6-8 Cavendish Row, Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 878 0555, fax 878 0687, [email protected], www.cassidyshotel.com. Opposite the Gate theatre stands this quaint, family-owned and run boutique hotel. Three Georgian buildings have been converted to provide a sense of contemporary chic with more than a pass-ing nod to its grand past. Soft creams dominate the elegant reception and flow effortlessly into the stylish bedrooms where flat screen TVs, black out curtains and free wifi are among the welcome touches. Enjoy a tipple or modern Irish cuisine at Restaurant Six and the trad-style Groomes Bar, then work it all off at the hotel gym. Speaking of which, room rates include breakfast. Q113 rooms (singles €60 - 130, doubles €120 - 260). JHFLK hhh

Holiday Inn City Centre C-2, 8-107 Pearse St, Dublin 2, tel. 670 3666, fax 670 3636, [email protected], www.holidayinndublin.ie. This hotel was one of the first developments in the up and coming Docklands. With confer-ence and banqueting facilities, and even an intimate concert venue in The Green Room, it’s a modern budget option well worth considering. And the music theme continues with the famous Windmill Lane recording studios and ‘U2 Wall’ (share

your scribbles with die-hard fans) nearby. All rooms have fax/modem and wifi access, making this central sleepover - with underground parking - a particular fave with visiting suits. All rooms have 2 twin beds. Q101 rooms (quads €100 - 300). Continental Breakfast €9.49, Full Irish Breakfast €14.95. JHFEBKW

Maldron Hotel Smithfield B-2, Smithfield Plaza, Dublin 7, tel. 485 0900, fax 485 0910, [email protected], www.maldronhotels.com. Clean lines and contemporary design define this bright and contem-porary purpose-built hotel located behind The Old Jameson Distillery. Some rooms, including seven junior suites, have private balconies and all rooms have power showers, coffee maker and free wifi... perfect for the exec on the move. Dublin City Fruit, Vegetable and Flower Market takes place in the square with a monthly horse market to tickle your fancy. It’s a 5min walk to major shopping areas and tourist attractions and right on the LUAS tram line. When you’re booking, ask about discounted rates for the adjoining multi-storey car-park. Q92 rooms (singles €69 - 249, doubles €69 - 249, suites €149 - 299). HKSW hhh

Travelodge Dublin Castleknock Auburn Ave Roundabout, Navan Rd, Castleknock, Dublin 15, tel. 820 2626, fax 820 2151, [email protected], www.travelodge.ie. On the fringes of Phoenix Park and four miles east of the city centre, this functional overnight option ticks all the expected Travelodge boxes with its in-room facilties and good value rates. Its proximity to the N50 and Blanchardstown Centre ensures easy access and nearby mall-style shopping, eating and entertainment. A bit out of town but, at these prices and with free car parking, definitely worth considering. Q97 rooms ( Room (up to 3 people) from €39). LK hhh

Travelodge Dublin City Rathmines off B-3, Lower Rathmines Rd, Dublin 6, tel. 491 1402, fax 496 7688, www.traveldoge.ie. Snuzzle up under the duvet in your King Size bed and plan your city adventures - whether they be the quirky shops and cafes in the Rathmines neighbour-hood, or the big boy attractions and malls in the nearby city centre (we’re talking a leisurely walk or 10min bus ride). The rooms are larger than you’d expect and come with the usual array of Travelodge extras including tea and coffee mak-ing facilities for that post-sightseeing pick-me-up. A great budget option. Q54 rooms ( Rooms (up to 3 people) from €39). K hhh

Waltons Hotel B-1, 2-5 North Frederick St., Dublin 1, tel. 878 3131, fax 878 3090, [email protected], www.waltons-hotel.ie. Five Georgian houses have been elegantly restored to form yet another well-priced overnight option in this small hotel chain. Located just 2mins from O’Connell St and opposite the Garden of Remembrance, the location is top notch and history-steeped. The Walton family is synonymous with music and Martin Walton, a gold medal violinist, used to teach music in No. 4. At the side of the hotel is one of the Waltons music shops and well worth an exploration. Car parking is available at €10 per night. Q57 rooms (singles €69 - 125, doubles €119 - 220). Continental Breakfast €5. Full Irish Breakfast €10. JK hhh

GuesthousesCharleville Lodge C-1, 268-272 North Circular Rd, Phibsborough, Dublin 7, tel. 838 6633, fax 838 5854, [email protected], www.charlevillelodge.ie. Chan-deliers, a quaint courtyard and the Charleville Suite with roll-top bath help lend this family-run gem an appealing boutique


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air. Take three Victorian townhouses with original features and attach a contemporary garden wing and you’ve got yourself one excellent value-for-money guesthouse. It’s a pleasant walk to O’Connell Street, and particularly handy for Croke Park. Car parking, full Irish breakfast and internet access is included in the price. Q30 rooms (singles €69 - 79, doubles €89 - 150, triples €129 - 195, suites €124 - 149). L

Merrion Hall D-4, 54 Merrion Rd, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, tel. 668 1426, fax 668 4280, www.halpinsprivatehotels.com/merrion-main.html. In the heart of Dublin’s well-heeled neighbourhood of Ballsbridge - and just round the corner from the DART - stands this grand Edwardian townhouse. The exterior is swathed in glorious greenery and the rooms are symphonies in understated elegance with four poster beds, dramatic drapes and period furniture lending a regal air. Within walking distance of the beach and close to the RDS, it’s a great base if you’re taking in a show or want a retreat within commuting distance of the city centre. Break-fast is included in the rate. Q34 rooms (singles €99 - 129, doubles €139 - 179, triples €169 - 199, suites €219 - 349). HKW hhhh

Townhouse C-2, 47- 48 Lower Gardiner St, Dublin 1, tel. 878 8808, fax 878 8787, [email protected], www.townhouseofdublin.com. A lobby adorned with memorabilia, photos and works of art commemorates the lives of 19th Century playwrights Dion Boucicault and Lafcadio Hearn who once lived in these grand homes. Each of the bedrooms is named after their works, and the individual decor reflects the playwrights’ eclectic lives. Its proximity to Connolly Train Station and Busaras bus station makes The Townhouse a very popular stop. Opt for the modern Townhouse Mews or 18th Century Georgian Townhouse with high ceilings and additional period detail. Rooms at the back provide quieter nights. Q83 rooms (singles €70 - 80, doubles €115 - 130, triples €132 - 144, quads €140 - 160). Broadband in rooms. J

B&BHarrington Hall B-3, 70 Harcourt St, Dublin 2, tel. 475 3497, fax 475 4544, [email protected], www.harringtonhall.com. Retire to the drawing room and recall the days when this gracious house was once home to Timothy Charles Harrington, former Lord Mayor of Dublin. Georgian features - including an original fireplace with peat fire - have been sensitively restored, and the comfy sofas are so inviting you won’t want to move. The soundproofed bedrooms are equally elegantly, with a mezzanine suite a particular fave. Secure car parking at the rear and a handy LUAS stop nearby means you can ditch those wheels and explore at your leisure. How civilised. Q28 rooms (singles €79 - 200, doubles €119 - 250, triples €149 - 259, suites €290 - 350, Twin €119 - 250). Continental Breakfast €10.50. Full Irish Breakfast €14.50. JHL hhhh

Marble Hall 81 Marlborough Rd, Donnybrook, Dublin 4, tel. 497 7350, [email protected], www.marblehall.net. A cup of tea and homemade scone relaxes frazzled travellers as they arrive at this extremely charming Georgian abode. A lot of thought has gone into the decor of the en-suite rooms, all of which boast beautiful antique furniture. And it gets even better as you head downstairs to indulge in the Breakfast of the Year for 2008. Between Ranelagh and Donnybrook, this is an outstanding house in a great, just out-of-town location. Rates include that award-winning breakfast. Q 3 rooms (Doubles €50pp sharing).

HostelsDublin Hostelling International (An Oige) C-1, 61 Mountjoy St, Dublin 7, tel. 830 1766, fax 830 1600, [email protected], www.anoige.ie/hostels/dublin-international. Reminders of this building’s previous incarna-tion await at every turn. Once a convent and school, if you want to call home you do it - rather prophetically - from the confessional booth. And breakfast is served in the former chapel. An Óige is Irish for ‘youth’, but all ages can avail of this centrally-located ‘Youth’ Hostel which is the city’s only member of Hostelling International. Facilities include en-suite private rooms, dorms, car parking, an outside garden with seating and a children’s play area. The games room and book exchange feed the grey matter, and dinner and lunch can be served on a request basis for group bookings. Continental breakfast is included in the rate. Q297 rooms (singles €32 - 40, doubles €50 - 56, triples €75 - 84, quads €90 - 112, Quad Ensuite €98 - 120, 6 Bed Dorm €21 - 25, 8 Bed Dorm €20 - 24). Six and eight bed dorms prices are per person. JHWKinlay House B-2, 2-12 Lord Edward St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 6644, fax 679 7437, [email protected], www.kinlayhouse.ie. This distinctive 1870 red-brick Victorian building on Lord Edward St, at the top of Dame St, is great for the budget traveller. Beside Christ Church Cathedral and near Temple Bar, its location is suitably central and just a short stroll from many major attractions. Rooms range from singles to dorms, and operate on an electronic locking system, with guests given their own key card. The free wifi, laundry service, bureau de change, security lockers and super helpful staff add to those backpacker essentials. And the TV lounge and Irish and international movie nights up the entertainment ante. All rates include a light breakfast. Q39 rooms (doubles €30 - 40, twin/triple ensuite €32 - 43, 4-6 ensuite €24 - 33, 4-6 standard €22 - 31, dorms €18 - 26, 4-6 female ensuite €27 - 35). All rates are pp. J hhh

Oliver St. John Gogarty Hostel B-2, 18-21 Anglesea St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 671 1822, fax 671 7637, [email protected], www.gogartys.ie. This hostel is unique in that it has its own very popular pub and restaurant - and all within the heart of Temple Bar. The pub stays open until 02:30 from Mon-Sat and 01:30 on Sundays. The flagstone-floored pub was first opened in 1838, and downstairs there’s a life-sized bronze statue of Gogarty - a physician, writer, footballer and wit of some renown. With traditional Irish music sessions every evening, a great night’s craic is guaranteed for all you party loving backpackers. Self-catering accommo-dation is also available in the same complex which doesn’t have parking, but does offer discounted rates. Breakfast is included. Q140 rooms (doubles €32 - 43, quads €35 - 38, Twin Ensuite €35 - 49, 6 Bed €20 - 35, 8/10 Bed Dorms €19 - 27, 2 Bed Apart €175 - 280, 3 Bed Apart €195 - 330). Rooms are pp but apartments are per night. JKW

Paddy’s Palace C-2, 5 Beresford Place, Lr. Gardiner St, Dublin 1, tel. 823 0822, fax 823 0765, [email protected], www.paddywagontours.com. The party starts right here with Paddy Wagon’s renowned Ireland-wide chain of hostels and accompanying tours. The group’s Dublin abode is up the street from Connolly Street train station and round the corner from Busaras bus station - making long-distance travel a doddle. And, with the LUAS tram and DART railway handy too, city and county sojourns are a breeze. Back at the ranch, you’ll find the usual gamut of budget-friendly extras including kitchen, common room, security lockers and internet access. The plasma TV lounge,


22 where to stAy

Premier Inn C-3, Alfred St, tel. 0870 850 63 16, [email protected], www.premierinn.com. This sleek new budget hotel has a fantastic city centre location - with great views on higher floors - and sparkly clean rooms as befits its newcomer status. Premier Inn patrons will instantly recognise the bedrooms’ multi-channel TVs, tea/coffee-making facilities, hairdryers and squeezy soaps in the ensuites. The hotel prides itself on quick turn-around times and ‚A good night. Guaranteed.’ (Sssshhh! signs and special mattresses shore up their promise). Single female travellers are reassuringly looked after and deals with a nearby fitness club (£5 per day) and business centre ensure suits and swimmers have everything they could possibly need. Q (singles £70). 148 rooms (£70 per room). Eat All You Like breakfast £7.50, U-16 free. JLK hhh

Premier Inn Cathedral Quarter 2-6 Waring St, tel. 0870 423 6492. www.premierinn.com. Another great value hotel rises up in the city centre’s historic heart - right next to Cathedral Quarter’s bars and restaurants and a very short stroll from all the main shops, tours and attractions. Abundant with all Premier Inn’s expected features, including that Good Night Guarantee or your money back, this latest arrival also offers meeting rooms, chargeable wifi access and the contemporary-style Four Cor-ners Bar & restaurant. The sympathetically restored brickwork facade of this listed building lends the hotel a touch of elegance and continues the area’s stylish renaissance. 171 rooms ( Rooms £70). Full breakfast £7.50, Continental £5.25.

Belfast International Youth Hostel B-4, 22 Donegall Rd., tel. 9031 5435, fax 9043 9699, [email protected],

www.hini.org.uk. This huge hostel is the biggest in Belfast and the only one affiliated with Hostelling International. It’s a short walk from all a tourist heart desires, from Queen’s Quar-ter pubs and attractions to city centre shops and restaurants. A recent renovation has heralded a slew of top class amenities including en-suite rooms, left luggage, currency exchange and laundry facilities. The Causeway and Internet Cafes serve up good value grub and keep you connected with all your lovely new travel chums. Minicoach tours are based at the Hostel for trips to the Giant’s Causeway and north coast. Q202 rooms (singles £19 - 25, doubles £14 - 20, triples £14 - 17, quads £11 - 14, 6-bed dorms £10 - 13, large ensuite dorms £11 - 12). Child rates available. All rates £1 extra June-Aug and during Bank and Public Holiday weekends. JHRLK

Emerald House F-2, 2 Chichester Ave, tel./fax 9059 4315, tel. 077 80948 182, [email protected], www.emeraldhousebedandbreakfast.com. Relaxing earthy tones dominate this North Belfast Victorian home which retains many original features including a huge cast iron fireplace in the dining room. Berlin-born owner Silke is a trained chef and her husband a Black Taxi driver so, between them, they can conjure up tasty extras such as organic breakfasts (5am - 10am), evening meals, airport pick-ups (at taxi rate) and city, Causeway (incl. Silke‘s picnic basket) and Political Tours. Free wifi keeps you connected with the folks back home. The house is non-smoking and does not accept stag or hen groups. QFROM JAN-DEC 2009 5th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL REDUCED ROOM RATES: Single £25, Double £45, Twin £55. LK

Coming to Belfast?

SKY Sports and Movies and oh-so-healthy juice bar are nice bonuses. But it’s those tours that really set the Paddy Wagon posse apart. Find out more at their info desk and head north, west and south to explore the Emerald Isle in the company of all your new-found friends. Breakfast is included in the rate. Q85 rooms ( 4 bed €20 - 23, 6 bed €20 - 22, 8 bed €18 - 20, ten bed €17 - 19, twin per room €54 - 66). J

AirportCarlton Dublin Airport Hotel Old Airport Rd, Cloughran, Co. Dublin, tel. 866 7500, fax 862 3114, [email protected], www.carltondublinair-port.com. Set down your chopper at the hotel helipad, check into your smart soundproofed room then head skyward once again for dinner at Clouds rooftop restaurant - with its posh nosh and panoramic views of the runway, city, coast and countryside. Easy access to the M1 and M50 ensures you jet into town with precious little turbulence. There’s free car parking and wifi for guests, and a shuttle bus to the airport every 30mins. Q118 rooms (singles €109 - 169, doubles €109 - 189, suites €159 - 169). Continental: €12.50, Full Irish Breakfast: €16.50. HLK hhhh

Premier Inn Airside Retail Park, Swords, Co. Dublin, tel. 895 7777, www.premierinn.com. Clean lines set the tone for this great value hotel chain. Rooms have the expected ar-ray of extras including wifi (chargeable), modem point, satellite TV and hairdryers. King size beds with top-notch pillows and duvets, coupled with the hotel chain’s Good Night Guarantee, mean you won’t need to worry about nearby aircraft disturb-ing your slumber. Parking is free for guests, and a free airport shuttle bus will ensure you arrive on time for your flight. Q Rooms from €89. Full breakfast €11.95. Continental buffet €7.75. HLKW

Travelodge Dublin Airport Pinnock Hill Roundabout, Swords, Co. Dublin, tel. 807 9400, fax 840 9235, [email protected], www.travelodge.ie. Complemen-tary car parking, wifi access and fixed price room rates make this airport hotel a good place to bed before catching that awkwardly timed flight. The fast check-in option overrides the need to check-out, giving you extra zzzz’s before doors to manual. There’s also an on-site restaurant and in-room tea and coffee making facilities to keep pre-flight munchies at bay. Find it 2km from the Terminal building - you may need to book a taxi - and 16km north of the city centre. Q130 rooms (Room (up to 3 people) from €39). LK hhh

Travelodge Dublin Airport Ballymun Main St, Ballymun,Dublin 11, tel. 842 2000, [email protected], www.travelodge.ie. Four kms either way to Dublin Airport in the north and the city centre in the south sits this modern budget hotel. Good access to the M50 and M1 makes it handy if you’re heading in or out of town, or exploring the nearby scenic spots of Howth and Malahide. Back at base, the ensuite rooms’ minimalist lines enhance their ample space... and fourth floor rooms have balconies overlooking the Dublin Mountains. The complimentary carpark is a welcome bonus for drivers embarking on an Ireland-wide odyssey. Free in-room tea and coffee and payable wifi access complete Travelodge’s calling card. Q125 rooms ( Rooms (up to 3 people) from €39). LK hhh

The Dublin tel. code is +353 (0)1


23where to eAtCafe Manila B-2, 74 Mid Abbey St, Dublin 1, tel. 872 9573, [email protected]. This Filipino restaurant is a newcomer to the Dublin scene. The staff are helpful and friendly, the food is a mix of colourful and traditional home cooked Philippine dishes. Plenty of fish and vegetarian options offer a little bit of South East Asia just off O’Connell St. The buffet’s steaming food and inviting aromas is hard to ignore and the food is served attractively on your plate. Colourful desserts, an all day breakfast, lunch time buffet and all day a la carte menu keep the converts coming. Lunch time can get busy, so get here early. And if you fall in love with the food, they also have the Philippine market ALTOFOOD a few doors down at No. 66 (open daily 10:00-19:00). QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. €€. J

Café Mao B-2, 2-3 Chatham Row, Dublin 2, tel. 670 4899, www.cafemao.com. Bright and cheery, this is one of the most popular Asian Fusion venues in Dublin. The white walls - adorned with photos of Chairman Mao in an Andy Warhol vein - and primary coloured seats give it a real feel-good factor. As it is constantly busy, and you can’t book a table in advance, try to get there before the crowds. And, with a new celiac menu, Mao has yet again increased its popularity. For those of you on a diet, the menu kindly notes what dishes are low in fat so no need to fret while munch-ing on a tasty morsel. The Five Spice Chicken is one of the favourites. Q12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€€. J

Chameleon B-2, 1 Lower Fownes St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 671 0362, www.chameleonrestaurant.com. This is Dublin’s one-and-only true Dutch-Indonesian Rijst Tafel restaurant. The term translates as ‘rice table’ and consists of a bed of rice served with small, often spicy, side dishes. With the many awards on the wall outside, it’s surprising this restaurant isn’t name-checked more often. The nicely spicy Indonesian food awakens the taste buds without the dive for the jug of water. An a la carte menu is available, but the Rijst Tafel menu is why you’re here. Upstairs the cushioned low level seating is a novelty and certainly makes you sit back, relax and enjoy your meal. Share a romantic evening with your paramour or hook up with friends and book the private Opium Room. Q Open from 17:00. €€€€. J

Chili Club B-2, 1 Anne’s Lane, South Anne’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 3721. Dublin’s first Thai restaurant is still as popular as the day it opened its doors. People are often surprised when they arrive at the white building just off Grafton Street and realise they have to knock. Don’t worry it’s not closed so do knock. The small dining area is very intimate and discrete, making it a cute spot for a romantic dinner/evening. You’re not rushed and could spend all night wallowing in the laid-back ambience. This is one restaurant you’ll remember and vow to revisit. Q Mon-Fri 12:30 - 14:30, Mon-Sun 18:00 - 23:00. €€. J

Jaipur B-2, 41-46 South Great George’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 640 2166, www.jaipur.ie. Hailed by critics and locals, this is a tantalisingly delicious and conveniently-located modern Indian restaurant. Using local ingredients such as Wicklow lamb, chefs practice the philosophy of Ayurveda - good health - with their innovative and extensive dishes. If you like a fresh take on spices and a menu with plenty of vegetarian options - as expected of the Indian subcontinent -this is the place for you. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. €€€. J

The Dublin eating out scene is a vibrant part of locals’ lives. Everyone wants to be seen at the coolest venues... and preferably before anyone else even knows about it. After the initial rushes are over, only the good will survive... and here are a few of the good for you all to enjoy.

When ordering check the menu for service charges - res-taurants must state if there is one. The norm is it is only on tables of six or more, but some places always add it on. It is not mandatory to pay it, but if you do, don’t feel obliged to leave a tip on top. Unless of course you thought your evening was the most wonderful experience ever. If there is no service charge included the normal tipping scale is 10%-15%.

ArabicSinners B-2, 12 Parliament St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 671 9345. This Lebanese restaurant has held its own on the competitive Dublin scene for many years. Authentic red Egyptian lamps and candles lend a seductive air and provide an ideal backdrop for the equally exotic food and, wait for it, belly dancing (Thurs - Sat nights). This is interactive fun so if you’ve been practicing at home, now’s your chance to shine. Vegetarians are well catered for and, if you’re not familiar with Lebanese food, we suggest you dazzle your tastebuds with the Mezza selection of starters and main courses. Q17:00 - 24:00. €€€. J

AsianAYA B-2, 49 Clarendon St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 1544, www.aya.ie. Find this modern Japanese restaurant - with sushi conveyor belt - in a suitably trendy location behind Brown Thomas. The restaurant has two menus and two distinct seating areas. If you’re good at eating under pres-sure get here between 14:30-16:30 when, for €29, you have 55mins to eat everything you can from the conveyor belt along with a free drink and free miso soup. The black plates are still €1.50 each so avoid them. Unfortunately this offer is not available on Saturdays. Another great idea for the traveller who gets into town late is the Last Call. Every night 30mins before closing all plates on the sushi belt are sold at €1.25 weekdays and €1.75 weekends. This is very popular, so you may encounter queues outside. Q Mon-Fri 12:30-22:00 Sat 12:30-23:00, Sun 14:00-21:30 Lunch 12:30-15:00, Sat 12:30-16:00 €€€. JS

€ A really nice sandwich and coffee should be no more than €7-10€€ A cheap but tasty main course should be around €12-17€€€ Standard prices in most restaurants are mains €17-27€€€€ A pricey but wonderful restaurant will have mains at €28-35€€€€€ An expensive restaurant will be flying to the skies with €35 and over.

Restaurant Price Key

L Parking S Take away

J City centre location E Occasional live music

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24 where to eAt

Madina Desi Curry B-2, 60 Mary St, Dublin 1, tel. 872 6635. This started off as a market on Moore St. selling spices and halal meat and with a hot food counter that you stood at to eat. The counter proved so popular that they had to open a full sit down restaurant roun d the corner on Mary Street. This is a non-alcoholic restaurant with a separate floor and kitchen catering for vegans. Very reasonable and tasty food makes this hot spot well worth the trip. Q €€. J

Saba B-2, 26-28 Clarendon St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 2000, www.sabadublin.com. Meaning “Happy Meeting Place” in Thai, Saba is an award-winning restaurant (Best Service Award, Cocktail Bar of the Year, Most Stylish Restaurant) that’s always packed with a fun and entertaining clientele. Long benches and enormous picture windows open on a summer’s evening, lend an air of downtown NYC. Stand-out dishes for your humble editor include Black Pepper Squid and Yellow Butternut Squash Curry. So popular is Saba that they now have a take-away and food store in Rathmines. See www.sabatogo.com. QO12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. €€€. JS

Siam Thai B-2, South Andrew St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 3363, www.siamthai.ie. This contemporary Asian chain is so popular that they’ve sprung up all over the city. The owners have aired away from the cliched Thai theme and opted for a stylish, streamlined and beautifully lit interior. Subtle spotlit Asian artefacts provide the main clue to its cuisine’s origins. The staff are mostly Thai, dressed in traditional dress and very courteous, and the food is consistently top notch. No monosodium glutamate is used in any of their recipes, and starch and flour are kept to a minimum too, so you don’t

have to worry about an expanding waistline during dinner. Q12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:30, Sun 17:00 - 22:00. €€€. J

Wagamama B-2, South King St, Dublin 2, tel. 478 2152, www.wagamama.ie. Visitors from Great Britain will instantly recognise this renowned noodle franchise. Designed in the style of a Japanese ramen bar, the unintimidating menu is very easy to read, with detailed descriptions of each dish printed on placemats that are then marked with your order. Its long benches are great for groups - if not romantic dinners a deux - but be warned... they tend to bring each dish when it’s ready. A reasonably priced kids menu is also available. Q12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TJS

Yamamori Noodles B-2, 71-72 South Great Georges St, Dublin 2, tel. 475 5001, www.yamamorinoodles.ie. Serving sushi and noodles to the city for over 12 years, this renowned bold back and red exterior restaurant features an extensive menu of fabulous, fresh Japanese food. Small and large groups gravitate to its long benches and tables while very efficient staff serve up those exotic eats. And the vegetar-ian menu is just as fulfilling, with plenty of tofu alternatives scattered throughout the main menu. A real gem... this is sushi and fun all rolled into one (I thank you).Q Mon-Wed & Sun: 12:15 - 23:00, Thu-Sat 12:15 - 23:30. Sushi € Dinner €€.

Yamamori Sushi B-2, 38-39 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1, tel. 872 0003, www.yamamorisushi.ie. These doyens of informal Japanese dining have rolled out this brand new sushi bar specialising in those perfectly proportioned bite-sized beauties. The large, but expertly detailed, menu selection should keep you on the right track as you discover a dish to suit. And, if sushi ain’t your thing, there are plenty more Asian-inspired options to tempt. And, while you’re enter-ing into the spirit of things, why not try the Japanese plum wine? Makes a change from a pint. Cross the Ha’penny Bridge from Temple Bar and you’re there.Q Mon-Wed & Sun: 12:15 - 23:00, Thu-Sat: 12:15 - 23:30. J

Burgers & PizzasBad Ass Café B-2, 9-11 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 1, tel. 671 2596, www.badasscafe.com. This is a restaurant like no other. Table orders and also receipts go flying overhead in a pulley system that makes you smile in its originality. Pizzas, burger and Mexican are the order of the day and, with big portions, you won’t be left hungry. An unpretentious mix of businessmen, tourists, students and yuppies eat here on a daily basis. Having a fully licensed bar, and being in the middle of Temple Bar, it’s a great place to start off your big night out. Q11:30 - late. €€. J

Elephant & Castle B-2, 18 Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 679 3121, www.elephantandcastle.ie. Ever since this informal restaurant opened its doors way back in 1989, queues of diners have descended every night. They come from miles around to devour the spicy chicken wings which are a Dublin legend. The burger menu is as big as the Spire and the come hither desserts are just too tempting to refuse. Their brunch is great, too, so if you’re in the area, call by and savour its scrummy delights. Q08:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. €€. J

Hard Rock Café B-2, 12 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dub-lin 2, tel. 671 7777, www.hardrock.com. The Hard Rock phenomenon arrived in the city in 2004, and this spacious diner-style cafe - with room for 350 rock rubberneckers - pays homage to Ireland’s, and the world’s, rich musical heritage. Bono’s shades and hand-written lyrics take centre stage in


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mismatched plates echoing the traditional kitchen dresser adds informality, and three local artists’ work also feature. Weekend brunch is usually served to live jazz, and shared platters encourage a hands-on approach to eating. Try the rotisserie chicken signature dish... one of the best on the menu. The free wifi keeps you in touch with the outside world - just ask for a voucher. Q 10:00 - 17:00, Sun-Wed 19:00-23:00, Thur-Sat 19:00 - 21:15 and 21:30 - 23:30. €€€. JS

Café Bar Deli B-2, Bewleys at Grafton St, Dublin 2, tel. 672 7720, www.cafebardeli.ie. Now in the famous old Bewleys café on Grafton St, this wonderful cafe res-taurant serves good quality food in opulent surroundings and at reasonable prices - definitely a rarity in Dublin. This landmark venue is very popular with tourists on a budget, and the menus double up as placemats so you can keep on ordering those delicious dishes. Quick food that tastes good, the best items - in our humble opinion - are the chocolate brownies and pizza no. 6. Leave satiated and with a smile on your face, ready to head out for the night, back to the shops or ‘home’ to chill out. Q12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. JS

Café Léon The Bistro B-2, 33 Exchequer St, Dublin 2, tel. 670 7238, www.cafeleon.ie. This little gem of a restau-rant has two sister cafés on Wicklow and Trinity Streets selling their wonderful coffee and cakes. The melt-in-the-mouth miniature gateaux and other devilishly delicious desserts are just too tempting, and may have you skipping starters to save a space. Charmingly rustic, the bistro exudes a decidedly Parisienne air and unforced atmosphere. Live music at the weekends enhances the continental atmosphere and ensures the clientelle leave satiated. Ooh la la. Q08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€. JES

Canal Bank Café C-3, 146 Upper Lesson St, Dublin 4, tel. 664 2135, www.tribeca.ie. This cosy little restaurant just over Leeson St Bridge is full of lovely staff who actually smile at you... how pleasant and such a refreshing change. The tasty global cuisine - from burgers and omelettes to moules frite and roast half duckling - makes for a chilled out lunch or rosemantic dinner a deux,. And, inside, its white walls, delicate pictures, fairy lights and sparkling glasses create a very pretty backdrop. Q10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. J

Foodlife C-2, First Floor, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, tel. 478 1665, www.kylemore.ie. Irish catering gurus Kylemore’s flagship Foodcourt features five counters of varying feastage. Pure juice bar, Coffee Cuisine, SFC Express fast food, Quiznos sub/sandwich counter and Kylemore’s own selection of main courses, from Irish & con-tinental breakfasts to hearty roast dinners keep the punters satisfied. And the comfy seats provide welcome respite for all you weary shoppers, so tuck in at this unpretentious city centre spot. Q09:00 - 19:00, Thur 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. €€. J

Rhubarb Café/Deli C-3, 18a Upper Merrion St, Dublin 2, tel. 631 4924, www.rhubarb.ie. With three venues within five minutes of each other, this café/deli has enjoyed enormous success in the city. Enjoy your made-to-order sandwich while gazing at Dáil Eireann across the road and wondering what those politicians are plotting next. The breakfast rolls are a particularly good ‘morning after the night before’ pick-me-up. Q €€. JS

the U2 section, while a shirt worn by Elvis shares wall space with Macca’s boots, Madonna’s jacket and, of all things, a rug owned by Jimi Hendrix. In between ogling the rock and pop paraphernalia and watching music vids on the plasma screens, get stuck into the all-American menu’s smokehouse, burger, hot sandwich and salad selections. Then head to the souvenir shop and bag a ubiquitous HRC Dublin T-shirt to show the folks back home. Look for the big neon guitar shining down on Temple Bar. Q12:00 - late. €€€. J

SoHo B-2, 17 South Great George’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 707 9596, www.sohidublin.com. New York glamour meets London retro at this funky eatery a mere stroll from stylish Grafton Street. Sister to the popular Brassiere Sixty6, SoHo is equally chic, and an ideal spot for casual tapas brunch or a post-retail gourmet meal. The unpretentious and easy din-ing approach to European food is quite refreshing, and their cocktail list is also pretty enticing; with classics such as the Cosmo or Bloody Mary served alongside the more demure Champagne and Martini varieties. Leather seated booths and soft lighting adds to the ambiance of this delightful gem. Oh and FYI - the cutlery on the wall is purely decorative, in case you drop a fork! Mon-Wed 12:00-22:30, Thur & Fri 12:00-23:00, Sat 10:30-23:00, Sun 10:30-22:30. €€ J

TGI Friday’s B-2, St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, tel. 478 1233, www.fridays.ie. What began in New York in 1965 has now become a global brand - and its Dublin restaurant a landmark on the Green. The dazzling array of burgers, salads, fajitas, pasta, seafood - and over 100 cock-tails - relentlessly satisfy new and returning fans. The Jack Daniel’s grill features a feast of fodder laced with the famous whiskey glaze. And little ones feeling a bit peckish can avail of the organic baby food which is free when you dine. Also at Blanchardstown Shopping Centre, tel: 822 5990; Blackrock, tel:288 5155Q12:00 - late. €€€. J

Cafés & BrasseriesAvoca Café B-2, 11-13 Suffolk St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 4215, www.avoca.ie. Walking into Avoca is like stepping into a gli ttering treasure trove, with to-die-for clothing, accessories and gifts tempting the eye at every turn. And the top floor café continues the theme with its gloriously indulgent eats which are also available to take away from the downstairs basement. This renowned Irish brand has ten branches in Ireland, one in America... and two very popular cookbooks. Its city centre flagship location also has a rooftop garden - unusual in Dublin - and their broccoli and feta cheese salad and carrot salad are both so divine that you really will just want to keep on eating. Delicious. Q10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. €€€. JS

Brambles Deli Cafe Ltd. B-2, Jervis Street Shop-ping Centre, Jervis St, Dublin 1, tel. 468 5000, www.brambles.ie. This Irish family-owned restaurant is 100% Fair Trade and uses mostly organic ingredients and meats throughout its wholesome, homemade menu. Delicious savoury food such as quiches, lasagne and salads are all for the lunch or early dinner taking. And for some good Irish food served in unique surroundings, you can also find Brambles Cafes at the National Museum of Ireland’s Dublin sites at Kildare Street and Collins Barracks. Affordable food with a conscience - who knew? Q €. JS

Brasserie Sixty6 B-2, 66-67 St. Great George’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 400 5878, www.brasseriesixty6.com. Modern décor, large windows and few soft furnishings make this quite a loud and lively restaurant. An entire wall of

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straight into the restaurant with its original floorboards, dark seats and booths with a lot of glass. The staff are lovely and the food is great, but be prepared for noise levels that can be quite high. With a wine cellar and a wonderful deli, the selec-tion is an epicurean’s dream. Q Mon-Thur: 12:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Fri-Sat: 12:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun: 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 21:30. €€€. J

Odessa B-2, 14 Dame Court, Dublin 2, tel. 670 7634, www.odessa.ie. Since it opened in 1994, Odessa has man-aged to stay ahead in the happening stakes. Renowned for its brunch, this contemporary space is the spiritual home for trendy types listening to funky music and keeping a subtle eye on their cool contemporaries. If you’re feeling fragile, a pitcher of Bloody Mary will soothe the soul, and their Smoked Chicken Quesadillas and Odessa Burger always deliver. Upstairs is all restaurant, whereas downstairs has the air of a relaxed drinking club. Now with a members club above the restaurant, this is definitely one for the haves and wannahaves. Have we just invented a word? Q Mon-Fri: 12:00 - 15:00, Mon-Sun: 18:00 - late. Sat-Sun: 11:30 - 16:30. €€€. J

Pearl Brasserie C-3, 20 Merrion St Upr, Dublin 2, tel. 661 3572, www.pearl-brasserie.com. Beautifully pre-sented seafood, and the use of traditional meats such as rabbit, pigeon and venison, set this inventive menu apart from the norm. The warm-hued interior has well-spaced tables and wonderfully romantic alcoves perfect for intimate occasions. The hidden table at the back also makes an ideal venue for private dinner parties. An oyster bar, peat burning fire, fish tanks and modern art adds to the special ambience. And it’s always nice to know that children are welcome in such a classy restaurant. Find it beside the Merrion Hotel. Q Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, Mon-Sat 18:00-22:00. €€€€. J

Rhodes D7 B-2, The Capel Building, Marys Abbey, Dublin 7, tel. 804 4444, www.rhodesd7.com. Celebrity chef Gary Rhodes has arrived in the city with this bright new eaterie, the decor of which features local artist Deborah Don-nelly’s vivid brushstrokes. Set beside the Luas tracks just over the Liffey, the heated outdoor eating area is stunning. Inside, though, the theme is not continued and, with three different dining levels, it feels somewhat like a hotel lobby. A modern European twist on home cooking, the menu features a good helping of Irish produce - such as roast salmon fillet with a lightly curried mussel. Though not the restaurant’s hands-on chef, Gary vows to ‘oversee’ and keep resisting his Irish incarnation. Last orders 22:00. Q Mon-Fri: 12:00 - 15:00, Sun-Mon: 12:00 - 15:30, Tue-Sat: 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. J

Winding Stair B-2, 40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1, tel. 872 7320, www.winding-stair.com. This Dublin landmark became famous in the 70’s when writers, musicians and artists would meet for food and wine. It has been recently renovated and is now a chic restaurant complete with chairs you used to find in school. There’s a bookshop downstairs, and a restaurant upstairs has great views over the Liffey, Food-wise, the emphasis is on organic and locally sourced ingredients - in a great location, and you can even buy a book downstairs before 17:00 and bring it upstairs to peruse while enjoying your meal. Find it at one end of the Ha’penny Bridge. Q Mon-Sun 12:30 - 15:30, Mon-Sat 18:00 - 22:30, Sun: 18:00 - 21:30. €€€. J

EuropeanBank on College Green C-2, 20-22 College Green, D2, tel. 677 0677, www.bankoncollegegreen.com. Across the road from Trinity College and the Bank of Ireland is this large 19th Century Scottish sandstone building which used

Coffee & SnacksButlers Chocolate Café B-2, 31 Henry St, Dublin 1, tel. 874 7419, www.butlerschocolates.com. Warm and inviting, once inside you’ll be seduced by the combined aroma of coffee and chocolate - truly a treat. Buy a coffee and get a free chocolate chosen by you from the mouth-watering display. Chocolates can also be bought to take away in pre-wrapped boxes or a box full of your own favourites. Traditional Irish chocolates for the folks back home - aren’t you wonderful! Q08:00 - 20:00, Thu 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. €. JS

Kaffe Moka B-2, South William St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 8475. With sofas, comfy seats and a games zone upstairs, and very late opening hours for caffine junkies night owls, this café is always a hive of all-hours activity. Their dreamy hot chocolates are especially popular on a winter’s day, and the cafe also serves salads, main courses and an eclectic selection of drinks. Q08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. J

Queen of Tarts B-2, 4 Cork Hill, Dame St, Dublin 2, tel. 670 7499. How cute is this! A delightful little tea shop crammed full of wonderful home-made pastries lies behind this quaint red shop front. From the simplicity of the potato and onion pies to the scrumptious decadence of the rasp-berry tarts, these savoury and sweet eats just couldn’t be better. Go visit the Queen’s pastry palace near Dublin Castle, but be prepared to wait for your very own throne. Q07:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.

Quiznos Sub B-2, St Stephens’ Green Centre, Dublin 2, www.quiznos.ie. From Denver to Dublin, these sub spe-cialists have been serving up their toasted torpedoes to a growing army of fans. Founded in the Colorado capital in 1981, Quiznos is now the fastest growing quick service restaurant in the world, with outlets in 21 countries. Five city centre loca-tions, and a few more in the suburbs, serve up wraps, soups, sandwiches, salads, gourmet coffees, breakfast, and subs that are toasted with ingredients to seal in and enhance the flavour. A great spot to pick up some healthy and filling food on the go. Q Also at: North Earl St, Dublin 1 tel. 814 6227, Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Dublin 2 tel. 707 1610, 32 Wexford St, Dublin 2 tel. 475 9992, 34 Dame St, Dublin 2 tel. 672 9977 €€. JS

ContemporaryCookes B-2, 14 Sth William St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 0536, www.cookesrestaurant.com. On a corner at the back of Powerscourt Townhouse sits this elegant restaurant with its distinctive red awnings. Opened in 1992, Cookes is a regular on the Dublin restaurant scene and its breads are so popular it has even opened a bakery. The Med-Cal (that’s Mediterranean-Californian to you) dinner can be above the average backpacker budget, so we suggest you try the more reasonably priced - and just as divine - lunch. The private upstairs dining room, with its own entrance and bar, is perfect for that special event. And, on a sunny day, the much sought after outside tables lend an air of bohemian chic to your meal. Q 12:00-16:30, 18:00-23:00. €€€€. J

Fallon & Byrne B-2, 11-17 Exchequer St, Dublin 2, tel. 472 1000, www.fallonandbyrne.com. Dublin meets New York would best describe this gastronomic experience... but make sure you book about two weeks in advance to avail of its fab food. Walk up the original wooden stairs and look


29where to eAt

with beautifully restored original features. Woodfired ovens produce delicious Jumbo Tiger Prawns (a signature dish) and tasty flatbreads. Lunch and pre-theatre menus are excellent value while the a la carte offers a wide variety of tasty and interesting dishes. If you like dining al fresco grab a table on the heated terrace overlooking Dawson Street and a little garden. Romantic, vibrant and trendy - Fire is, you’ll pardon us for saying, hot stuff. QMon-Wed 17:30 - 22:00; Thurs-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. €€€€. J

Chapter One B-1, Basement of Writers Museum, 18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1, tel. 873 2266, www.chaptero-nerestaurant.com. Having just received its first Michelin star, this is fine dining at its very best. With a wonderful pre-theatre selection and to-die-for dinner menu, you really should take your time and enjoy every moment. Chef Ross Lewis works wonders with his ingredients in this effortlessly elegant dining room with authentic granite walls, soft furnishings and fine art. The Vault and John Jameson private dining rooms (this being the whiskey mogul’s former home) are ideal spaces for private dining. And wine connoisseurs will especially relish the well-stocked Vault. Q Mon-Fri 12:30-14:00, Mon-Sat 18:00-23:00. €€€€€. J

L’Gueuleton B-2, 1 Fade St, Dublin 2, tel. 675 3708. Serving provincial French food that appeals to the locals, this bistro-style restaurant with its leather drapes, large bar, big mirrors and picture windows feels very European. The chefs cook up a storm behind the bar while staff try to keep up - and the crowd loves it. The food is top quality and very filling which is as you’d expect from hearty fare such as venison casserole or Toulouse sausages - and a name that translates as ‘blow-out’. You can’t book, so get there early to secure a table. Q Mon-Sat: 12:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. €€€. J

to be the Belfast Bank. Inside, the former banking hall is a magnificent profusion of mosaics, carved wood, plasterwork and a neck-craning stained glass roof. Grab a seat at, or near, the bar or take the stairs to the balcony for a great bird’s eye view of fellow diners. Food - from breakfast to evening dinner - is refreshingly good value and reassuringly replete. Fork a healthy salad, chow down on bangers and mash or enjoy some R&R with a cafe latte and devilish dessert. And, if you’re en route to see the Book of Kells, take a preview peak at the replica on display near the Bank’s front entrance. Q 10:00 - 22:00. €€. J

Ella 7 Main St, Howth, Co. Dublin, tel. 839 6264, www.ellawinebar.com. This chic restaurant in the picturesque vil-lage of Howth is a real gem. Its stylish interior seats up to 42 people, and the friendly staff and locally sourced food make for a very enjoyable epicurean experience. If you’re planning a day trip here, drop by for a glass of wine, music and nibbles before heading back into the city. And, if you’re seeking out sustenance at a good value price, the two-course a la carte lunch costs just €19, Express lunch incl. tea or coffee €12 (served in 10mins for all you time-pressed travellers) and the daily Early Bird special includes a free starter or dessert before 7pm. There’s a larger choice of wines, available by the glass or bottle, at the more value conscious end of the list, too. So treating yourself to good food at a pretty location needn’t break the bank. Background Jazz and Blues soothes the soul and adds to Ella’s cosmopolitan air. Q Mon-Sat 12:45 - 14:45, Mon-Sun 18:00 - 22:00. €€€-€€€€.

Fire C-2, The Mansion House, Dawson St, Dublin 2, tel. 676 7200, www.mansionhouse.ie/fire. Located in The Mansion House, the official residence of Dublin’s Lord Mayor since 1715, this spacious, high-ceilinged dining space mixes contemporary Celtic Spires and vibrant lighting

For reservations tel: (01) 839 6264www.ellawinebar.com

7 Main StreetHowthCo. Dublin

Locally supplied produceFine winesCool jazz & blues music


30 where to eAt

Les Frères Jacques B-2, 74 Dame St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 4555, www.lesfreresjacques.com. Escape the bustle of Dame Street at this charming - and award-winning - restau-rant Français. French cuisine, wines and waiters combine to create a warm and intimate vibe that’s perfect for a romantic meal or especially good value lunch. Seafood, steaks and delicious desserts are served in an unpretentious setting of muted tones, wooden tables and chairs and crisp white linens. A real treat for food connoisseurs... find it just beside the Olympia Theatre. Q Mon-Fri: 12:30 - 14:30, 19:30 - 22:3; Sat: 19:15 - 23:00. €€€€ J

Trocadero B-2, 4 St Andrew’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 5545, www.trocadero.ie. Easily one of Dublin’s most romantic restaurants, the ‘Troc’ exudes theatricality with its rich red velvet drapes, vintage show posters, mirrored walls and framed photos of famous guests. Indeed, this was the sometime haunt of Dublin’s luvvies and has been a city staple since the 50s. The food is reassuringly retro, with steaks having a menu all their own. Last orders are at midnight which makes a welcome change from other restaurants that try to get you out before the last bus home. Find it just around the corner from the tourist office. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. J

Pig’s Ear C-2, 4 Nassau St, Dublin 2, tel. 670 3865, www.thepigsear.ie. It’s rare that diners will catch a glimpse of their favourite celeb chef working up a sweat at the helm of a Dublin restaurant. So it’s reassuring to note that head chef and celebrity extraordinaire Stephen McAlister, (RTE’s The Restaurant and The Afternoon Show) is a permanent fixture at this trendy Nassau Street eaterie. McAlister’s dishes are best described as a modern take on traditional Irish cuisine. All you hungry tourists looking for authentic fare can indulge in dishes such as bacon and cabbage, shepherds pie and (as the restaurant name suggests) deep fried crispy pig’s ears – a

delicacy we’re assured! The menu offers good value for money lunches and early bird options. Look for the bright pink door, then ascend the staircase to the second storey’s two spa-cious and contemporary rooms overlooking beautiful Trinity College. QMon-Sat 12:30-15:30, 17:30–22:00. €€

Unicorn C-3, 12b Merrion Court, Merrion Row, Dublin 2, tel. 676 2182, www.unicornrestaurant.com. Famed for its piano bar, this popular eatery gets very buys, though staff can usually find you a table, even if you haven’t booked. The antipasto is delicious and signature dishes use Italian and Irish ingredients. There’s even a resident table magician on Wed and Thurs evenings. The restaurant’s popularity extends to their food emporium, and café (Mon-Sat, 08:00 - 20:00) serving homemade pasta to the busy exec on their lunch break. Q Mon-Sat: 12:30 - 16:30, Mon-Thur: 18:00 - 23:00, Fri-Sat 18:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. €€€€. JES

Fish & ChipsBeshoff Restaurant B-2, 6 O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 872 4400. Set in a wonderful old building with black and white tiled floors, this busy restaurant is full of charm and serves very tasty fish and chips. The original Mr. Beshoff arrived from his native Russia in 1912 and established what has become a bit of a Dublin institution. Good quality fish and chips are served on a plate (no less) in the upmarket self-service res-taurant which also stocks wine or beer. For hunger pangs on the go, take away is also available. But we suggest you stay and soak up the tradition. Q12:00 - 24:00. €. JS

Leo Burdocks B-2, 2 Werburgh St, Dublin 8, tel. 454 0306, www.leoburdocks.com. Since 1913 locals have flocked to this fish and chip emporium opposite Christ Church Cathedral. Come grub-up, queues frequently form outside the shop for their famous take-aways. Fresh fish, tasty batter and


31where to eAt

Gruel B-2, 68A Dame St, Dublin 2, tel. 670 7119. Named after a thin porridge of boiled cereal, a staple diet of the ordinary man, this relaxed wholesome restaurant shares the same unpretentious eating ethos as its moniker suggests. If you went home to visit your mum and she cooked you a hearty meal then is what you’ld be eating. The décor is that of a student canteen with a wall of posters advertising upcoming events. The signature dish is “roast in a roll” and the roast changes daily. Although the menu is constantly changing, the quality of food remains very high and the prices shockingly low. Stews and casseroles are favourites and the choice of red or white wine go well with the grub. No reservations required for this comfortable, healthy and nourishing restaurant that remains open ‘til a happily late hour. Q09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:30 - 21:00. €. JS

Lunch! Calzone Cafe C-2, 4 Lombard St, Dublin 2, tel. 474 3080. Use the menu boards to choose one of the tasty calzones - that’s folded pizzas to the uninitiated - stuffed with all sorts of inventive and international gourmet fillings. Hawaiian, Greek, Mexican, Thai ... if pizzas had passports, this is where they’d be stamped. Alternatively, you can opt for any of the salads, paninis and wraps on this Italian-influenced ‘fast food’ menu. Q08:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. €. JS

Nude C-2, 21 Suffolk St, Dublin 2, tel. 672 5577, www.nude.ie. Just off Grafton Street, this cheekily-named cafe has very quickly become an institution for people who crave healthy and tasty food, reasonably priced and served quick. With fresh, mostly organic food served up in a fast food-style venue, the service is swift and the cafe always busy. Smoothies and juices, wraps and paninis, salads and hot food all tempt lunch-timers in need of some good value, guilt-free grub. With a shop in the airport, you can sample the Nude

good portions make this a classic so popular they’ve opened sit down restaurants in other locations. Many famous faces have popped by for a portion and become immortalised in Burdock’s Hall of Fame. And if the grub’s good enough for Tom Cruise, who are we to argue? Q Mon-Wed 9:00-21:00, Thurs-Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 11:30-21:00 €. JS

ItalianDunne & Crescenzi C-2, 14 & 16 South Frederick St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 3815, www.dunneandcrescenzi.com. Established by an Italian husband and Irish wife team who moved here from Rome in 1995, this authentic Italian bistro is great for lunch or a low-key romantic evening. It’s also ideal for those days and evenings when you want nice wholesome food that’s not too heavy or rich. Several locations across the city all serve the same food and fantastic range of Ital-ian wines, and the chain is part of the Slow Food Revolution. Fans can also take home some fantastico foodie eats and treats. Q N° 16: Mon - Sat 8:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00 N° 14: Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Tue - Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€. J

Il Primo Ristorante B-3, 16 Montague St, Dublin 2, tel. 478 3373, www.ilprimo.ie. The small downstairs dining/bar area is an introduction to the main dining rooms upstairs. Just off St. Stephen’s Green, this period house has been reborn as a contemporary restaurant with the emphasis on rustic food and good Tuscan wine. The simple dishes often have a curious twist such as the favourite crab, leek and lemon lasagne. The risottos are famed with many claiming they are the best in town. Excellent value and good food will have you leaving with a satisfied smile on your face. QMon-Fri 12:30 - 15:00, Mon-Wed 18:00 - 22:00, Thurs-Sat 18:00 - 23:00. €€€. J

KoreanEaST B-2, 19 Crane Lane, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 764 5136. Kimchi (a spicy vegetable side dish), Bulgogi (translated as ‘fire meat’ to reflect its BBQ status), marinated meats and a good selection of veggie and noodle dishes grace the menu of this simple yet stylish Temple Bar restaurant. Chinese and Japanese influences enhance the Asian vibe. And the simple yet stylish red and black decor, with bar, table and booth seating for up the sixty diners, lends a distinctly urbane atmosphere. Beautiful people with an eye for unique cuisine should definitely give it a whirl. €€€ J

Lunch & BrunchEpicurean Food Hall B-2, Junction Middle Abbey St. and Lower Liffey St, Dublin 1. Established over nine years ago, this light and bright international Food Hall is the only one of its kind in Ireland. Fifteen dedicated outlets conjure up an unrivalled choice of scrumptious cuisine from across the globe - and at very reasonable prices. Indulge in Chinese, Indian, Turkish, Italian and Mexican food, or go traditional with Fish & Chips and Homemade Irish Pies & Stews. Delicious coffees and teas complete the gourmet experience which can be enjoyed ‘to go’ or at the Food Hall’s communal seating for over 300 people. Ample on-street, Arnotts and Jervis Street parking - and on the Luas line - make this an easy to reach, affordable and delicious city centre dining experience. Find it just two minutes walk from O’Connell Street and the Ha’penny Bridge. The Middle Abbey Street entrance is directly opposite Arnotts, with the main shopping streets of Henry Street and Mary Street close by.. Q09:00 - 19:00 Sun: 11:00 - 19:00 Thurs: 09:00 - 20:00 €€. JS

R E A L I R I S H F O O D

4 NASSAU STREET | DUBLIN 2 | T: 01 670 3865 | F: 01 670 3868 | www.thepigsear.ie

Monday - SaturdaySet Lunch Menu

€15.95 for 2 Courses, €19.95 for 3 Courses.

Early Evening Menu (5.30pm-6.30pm)€17.95 for 2 Courses, €21.95 for 3 Courses.


32


where to eAt

experience from arrival to departure. Oh, and trivia fans may like to know it’s owned by Bono’s big brother Norman Hewson. Don’t all rush at once. Q07:30 - 21:00, Thu 07:30 - 22:00, Sun 07:30 - 20:00. €. JS

Simon’s Place B-2, 22 South Great Georges St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 7821. Just on the corner of George’s Street and the George’s St Arcade, this little coffee shop is continuously busy. Its legendary doorstep (ie large) sandwiches and soups make healthy and filling lunches. And the tasty coffee served in hearty mugs, and oh-so-divine cinnamon buns, demand you take time out from your city exploits. This is one of the best places in town for good food at quality prices, and its central location will suit most tourists. Beware though... it is also well loved by locals who keep it busy. Q08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. €. J

Soup Dragon B-2, 168 Capel St, Dublin 2, tel. 872 3277, www.soupdragon.com. Started in 2000 - the auspi-cious Year of the Dragon - this healthy change from the usual lunch fare serves a daily dozen of delicious soups made on the premises, and their inviting aroma permeates the small space and your eager neb. With stews also available... the number’s most definitely up for curly-edged, pre-packed sandwiches. Q €. JS

Lunch on the goMunchies B-2, Kiosk Unit 8, 12 Jervis House, Millen-nium Walkway, Dublin 1, tel. 873 3455, www.munchies.ie. Get your chops round these tasty and healthy sandwiches, ciabattas, melts and wraps with a choice of fillings so great you can pack a different picnic every day. Splurge on a ‘Chub-bies’ muffin, cookie or Danish for that afternoon sugar rush before resuming your city explorations. Founded by a former Miss Ireland, Munchies is a bit of a modern Dublin institution. Q07:30 - 16:30, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. €.

Orange Square C-3, 7 Lwr Baggot St, Dublin 2, tel. 642 5500, www.brianyoung.ie. This little corridor of a shop - definitely a take-away option - serves great homemade chunky soups more eating than drinking, and certainly the best way to warm up after spending hours walking around the city. There’s also a varied choice of sandwiches, as well as salads befitting a person, not the usual rabbit. Also open on Grand Canal St, Dublin 4. Q €. J

Pig & Heifer C-2, 6 Guild Court, Amiens St, Dublin 1, tel. 836 5542. This New York Style deli is very popular with lunching locals who love the doorstep slices of bread barely able to hold in the fillings. Food is served pretty fast so, even if there is a queue, it won’t be long before you’re calling out your order. The Amiens St. branch is particularly handy if you need to catch a bite before taking a train or bus from nearby Connolly Station and, around the corner, Busarus. Q08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun. €. J

SeafoodCavistons 59 Glasthule Rd, Sandycove, Co. Dublin, tel. 280 9120, www.cavistons.com. Renowned for its fresh and delicious seafood, the menu of this delightful restaurant changes daily depending on the catch of the Irish fishing fleet. Opened since 1996 it’s a real favourite with food lovers who enjoy a chilled glass of wine and tasty fish as the sun shines through its big windows. And, afterwards, you can take a leisurely walk on the seafront. Booking is recommended as it is constantly busy and demand for the limited seats is high. Last sitting is 2hrs before closing. Q12:00 - 17.00, Sat 12:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€.

Lobster Pot D-3, 9 Ballsbridge Terrace, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, tel. 668 0025, www.thelobsterpot.ie. Warm and inviting with a romantic elegance and enduring passion for fresh, local produce - this Ballsbridge restaurant is a real city stand-out. Opened in 1980 - with the original key members of staff still here - The Lobster Pot offers a bountiful menu of clas-sic meat and seafood dishes, among them Lobster Thermidor, Steak Tartar and Salmon Mornay. The fresh fish is exquisitely prepared, the game in season and the meat beautifully tender. And with a manager who’s also the sommelier, wine buffs will be particularly enamoured of the selection. Just around the corner from many of leafy D4’s hotels and embassies, this Dublin gem is well worth the trip. Q Mon-Fri 12:30 - 14:00, Mon-Sat 18:30 - 22:30. €€€€.

Lord Edward Restaurant & Tavern B-2, 23 Christchurch Place, Dublin 8, tel. 454 2420, www.lordedward.ie. Dublin’s oldest seafood restaurant dates back to 1890 and overlooks Christ Church Cathedral. It’s a history-steeped, ye olde three-in-one pub, lounge and restau-rant named after United Irishman Lord Edward Fitzgerald. All manner of marine morsels are available in an equally replete selection of cooking options - from scallops to sole, prawns to seafood platter. So extensive is the menu, in fact, that it’s positively oceanic. With Guinness on tap, your all-round eating indulgence is complete. Q Mon-Fri 12:30 - 14:30, Mon-Sat 18:00 - 22:45. €€€€. J

Spanish & Latin AmericaAcapulco B-2, 7 Sth. Gt. Georges St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 1085, www.acapulco.ie. Sizzling with all the colour and exuberance of Latin America, this funky laid-back restaurant serves spicy fajitas, burritos, enchiladas and other authentic Mexican treats. Burgers, steaks and salads ensure all tastes are catered for... and the herbivores among you will love the fact that practically every dish has a vegetarian option. For a


33where to eAt

finale you’ll find in few (if any) other places, check out the deep fried ice cream on the dessert menu. Margaritas and tequilas guarantee a lively night to remember - just keep an eye on those pitchers. Q12:00 - 22:30 Sunday: 14:00 - 22:30 Friday: 12:00 - 23:00 Saturday: 14:00 - 23:00 J

Havana B-2, South Great George’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 400 5990, www.havana.ie. This tapas bar is a favourite with lo-cals and workers who love to eat, drink and dance. Everything is cooked on the premises and, Spanish-style, you can enjoy your food at the bar without having to wait for a table. The lunch and take out menus nourish those in need of a tortilla but with no time to spare. Live music is played at the weekend, so float across the dance floor to a kaleidoscope of world sounds ranging from salsa to merengue, arabic to flamenco. On the same nights, they stop serving food at 23:30 but you can continue drinking until last orders at 01:30. With pitchers of cocktails - including mojitos - just try and stop those happy feet from dancing. Q11:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 01:30, Sat 13:00 - 01:30, Sun 17:00 - 22:30. €€. JES

Port House B-2, 64a South William St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 0298, www.porthouse.ie. Dungeon-like and lit only by candles, make sure you remove your shades before entering this underground fairytale setting. Wine and tapas are consumed against a backdrop of brick walls, dripping candles and wine bottles... setting the scene for a gloriously atmospheric night out. Order a couple of tapas plates to start with, then decide on your favourites. No reservations are accepted, so arrive just ahead of your preferred eating hour. Q11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. J

Salamanca Tapas Bar and Restaurant B-2, St. Andrews St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 4799, www.salamanca.ie. Located right next door to the Tourist Office, manys a visitor has eaten here while planning their next adventure. No reservations are taken but, during busy periods, they operate a waiting list. An extensive tapas menu - with the usual array of meat, fish and vegetarian options - and wine list, Salamanca should cater for most taste buds. And, in such a convenient location, it’s pretty much guaranteed to catch your eye. Q12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€. J

Traditional IrishCaife Úna B-2, 46 Kildare St, Dublin 2, tel. 670 6087. Dust down your Irish dictionary and head to this bi-lingual restaurant where you can converse with the locals in Gaelic. This living and vibrant language can sometimes be forgotten on your trip, but the wonderful food and the restaurant’s undoubted uniqueness makes it worth a visit. Although well known for its - unsurprisingly - Irish cuisine, Caife Úna also serves modern European cuisine. The lunch menu changes daily and the dinner menu every two weeks, so you’ll never be bored with the fare. As the saying goes, you don’t have to speak Irish to eat here... but it helps. Q11:00 - 21:30, Mon 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. €€€. J

Gallagher’s Boxty House B-2, 20-21 Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 677 2762, www.boxtyhouse.ie. This Temple Bar restaurant brims with antiques and curios and is a perfect place to sample Irish cuisine. As well as breakfast, stews, Dublin’s famous coddle and great winter feel good/comfort food, you can sample the eponymous Boxty - a traditional Irish potato pancake with different fillings. Ideally located, it’s a favourite with tourists who wish to try the local food and enjoy some live trad music. Q09:00 - 23:00. €€€. JE

VegetarianBlazing Salads Food Company B-2, 42 Drury St, Dublin 2, tel. 671 9552, www.blazingsalads.com. This family-run wholefood/vegetarian deli serves deliciously healthy food - with mouth-watering monikers such as Carib-bean Stew, Tofu Chilli and Broccoli & Walnut Bake - and freshly baked bread from their certified organic bakery. If heading there for lunch, arrive early to beat the queues. Q10:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. €€. JS

Cornucopia Wholefood Restaurant B-2, 19 Wicklow St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 7583, www.cornucopia.ie. What was once a health food shop with a little café at the back has expanded over the years to become a fully fledged restaurant with room for up to 500 people. All the delicious vegetarian and vegan soups, salads, desserts and globally-inspired mains are freshly prepared on the premises every day. And yeast, dairy, gluten and wheat free diets are also catered for, making this one Horn of Plenty worth getting your teeth around. Breakfasts are definitely worth the trip alone, and will keep you replete as you explore the city. Find it just off Grafton Street. Q08:30 - 20:00, Thu 08:30 - 21:00. €€. JS

Juice B-2, 73-83 South Great Georges St, Dublin 2, tel. 475 7856, www.juicerestaurant.ie. If you’ve never ordered a meat-free meal, go wild and book yourself into the city’s only sit-down vegetarian restaurant. Fresh, tasty and reasonable priced, the vegetarian & vegan menu is a riot of organic and exotic ingredients. And, if you’re feeling a bit naughty, the expected selection of juices and smoothies is embellished with organic wines and coffees. Go on, be a devil. Q11:00 - 23:00. €€€. J

SPECIALISING IN SEAFOOD, MEATS AND GAME IN SEASON

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Tel: 6680025/6609170 Fax: 6680025www.thelobsterpot.ie


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Dublin has a fantastic nightlife and its pub-to-person ratio is the envy of many cities. The legal drinking age is 18 and a few places will ask for verification (though not nearly as many as a typical American bar, for example). Under 18s are allowed on premises only before 20:00 and must be accompanied by an adult. Some clubs and bars don’t welcome those who are too casually dressed (battered sneakers or runners seem to annoy doormen) so make a bit of an effort.

BarsBailey C-2, 2 Duke St, Dublin 2, tel. 670 4939, www.baileybar.ie. Often filled with shoppers on weekends thanks to its handy location, The Bailey is a classy joint, but not an exclusive one. The design is tasteful - leathers and black and beige and whatnot, and furniture comfortable. Its proximity to a pedestrian street makes it popular with smokers, and the place is especially alive during the summer. Popular with pint-lovers (like this writer) too, but also known for its well-above-average coffee and good wines.

Dakota B-2, 9 South William St, Dublin 2, tel. 672 7696. This place is classy - tasteful leather furniture, very, very good looking clientele, and cool music. It’s a pity that some of the prices are needlessly steep (nearly €7 for a portion of wedges? Hello?), but it’s definitely a cool place. Only a few short years old at this stage, Dakota has promptly established itself as a reputable, fashionable bar. Even though it covers a lot of ground, it can get crowded on weekends, so it’s advis-able to get there before 20:00 if you want a seat or, better yet, one of those nice booths.

Dawson Lounge C-2, 5 Dawson St, Dublin 2, tel. 671 0311, www.dawsonlounge.ie. One complaint about Dublin pubs is that they’re often too big- it’s so expensive to open a bar in this city that they usually have to have a big customer capacity to make it worth their while. The Dawson Lounge, opened in a more simple time, is not one of these bars. Hailed as the smallest bar in the city (and perhaps country), it has a refreshingly compact capacity of roughly 24. Naturally, it fills up pretty quickly, which means a virtual guarantee of a warm, convivial atmosphere. How cute.

Globe B-2, 11 South George’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 671 1220, www.globe.ie. Part of the same building as one of Dublin’s best clubs, RiRá, the Globe just about straddles the line between cool and too cool. A big favourite in Dublin, especially among musicians and music fans, the Globe boasts good tunes and a cosy atmosphere. Sitting at the bar is nice, but if you’re really lucky, you might land one of the big tables beside its even bigger windows. It’s really vibrant on

weekends with funky clientele, but it’s also a nice place for a quiet drink earlier in the day or week. On weeknights they let you into RiRá for free from there, but not on weekends.

Hairy Lemon B/C-2, 42 Lower Stephen St, Dublin 2, tel. 671 8949. This place has been around quite a while and still draws a very big crowd. Decorated in the ramshackle way of many Irish pubs, The Hairy Lemon (we think we know what the name means!) is pretty crowded on weekends and proves quite the draw for sports fans. Regular punters, too, should find an agreeable space among the countless nooks and crannies scattered throughout this deceptively big pub. Even when it’s not full it seems like it is thanks to the countless corners and turns, so the atmosphere is always good.

Harbour Master Customs House Dock, IFSC Dock, Dublin 1, tel. 670 1688, www.harbourmaster.ie. Not dissimilar to an American colonial building, The Harbour Master has promptly established itself as a popular fixture for Dublin’s drinkers. Lots of windows ensure plenty of natural light during the day and some nice views at night. Its food is not bad at all, and the layout is both spacious and intimate thanks to some clever design. The Harbour Master is nestled in the IFSC, a big financial district, but it’s not far from a large number of hotels and apartments, making it a big draw for students, businessfolk and tourists.

International B/C-2, 23 Wicklow St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 9250, www.international-bar.com. This enduring venue is best known for its 20-year-long running comedy nights, both upstairs and in ‘The Comedy Cellar’. Prices vary around the €10 mark which, for the show you get, is great value. There’s a good mix of established and rising comics, and many stand-ups from England or beyond have taken to the stage as surprise guests. As usual, the traditional stand-up is sooner recommended than their improv nights, but a good time is pretty much guaranteed in this (admittedly) sweaty venue. Comedy is every night except Tuesdays and Sundays. Oh, it’s a good traditional pub too and a nice place for an afternoon pint.

Market Bar B-2, Fade St, Dublin 2, tel. 613 9094, www.marketbar.ie. Only a couple of years old, the Market Bar is one of the first pubs in Dublin designed with the smoking ban in mind. There’s a nice seated, heated area in the impressive entrance/archway for addicts to get their nicotine fix. Inside it’s pretty vast, but it fills up quickly on weekends (they do take table bookings, though). No music and high ceilings leads to lots of ambient noise, but the atmosphere’s good and they serve nice food. Despite its size, the tasteful wood décor and brickwork (it used to be a loading bay) make it surprisingly inviting. You might have trouble getting a seat on weekends.

Porterhouse Temple Bar B-2, 16-18 Parliament St, Dublin 2, tel. 671 5715, www.porterhouse.ie. This is the best of three branches of The Porterhouse in Dublin. Temple Bar can be a bit touristy and full-on for some tastes, but we like this microbrewery and restaurant. It serves a little taste of local cuisine (insofar as you can call Irish food cuisine!) and a very impressive variety of beers- the Porterhouse Red is especially inviting. It towers over Parliament Street with its three floors and always has a crowd - a nice mix of locals, city workers and tourists. Sometimes they have decent acoustic music, and it’s got its share of cosy little corners to combat the sprawling size.

Ron Blacks C-2, 37 Dawson St, Dublin 2, tel. 672 8231, www.ronblacks.ie. Dawson Street is known for its classy pubs and restaurants (not to mention two of the best

By law, Ireland’s pubs can open Mon-Sat 10:30 and Sun 12:00. Last orders are Mon-Fri 23:30, Fri and Sat 00:30 and Sun 23:00. Punters get about 30mins to sup up, after which it’s time for those classic lines to emit from the bouncers’ and owners’ lips. And, if you have “no homes, hotels, hostels or B&Bs to go to”, just leave quietly anyway... it’s best all round. At weekends Late Bars serve until around 01:30 and Nightclubs until 02:30. On Sun, Nightclubs and Late Bars stop serving at 01:00. If you’re a resident in a hotel you can drink in their residential bar as late as you want (within reason, of course, and at hotel’s discretion).

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bookshops in the city). Only a handful of pubs in Dublin have queues outside their doors, and most of them are on Dawson St. Of all of the bars that warrant a queue on a weekend, Ron Blacks is the best - like many of its prestigious neighbours; it boasts a good reputation, lovely décor and even more at-tractive clientele. It has an edge, though, mainly for its slick music and warm atmosphere. We recommend you head there early enough in the evening to secure a seat.

Rush B-2, 65 South William St, Dublin 2, tel. 671 9542. This place is a favourite among young, successful stylish types (a less generous writer might say yuppies) and in less than four years has already established itself as a fun, hip late bar/disco. The strong roster of DJs peddles a very hip-movingly enjoyable mix of mainstream, retro and acceptable dance. It’s a pretty confined place with a small capacity, which means that it usually fills nicely, though it sometimes gets a little cramped. As you might expect from the above description, prices are hair more expensive than in your typical Dublin bar.

Solas B-3, 31 Wexford St, Dublin 2, tel. 478 0583. This cool bar (some say a little too cool) is located in one of the central hubs of Dublin’s music scene. Its layout is not too dissimilar to a classy American bar, with booths, tasteful décor and art. The tasty (if a little overpriced) mojitos are a particular fave. The cool weekend crowd lap up the DJs’ funky, slightly obscure taste. It’s a little pricey, but if you’re lucky enough to get a booth, a great Dublin pub in which to kick off your night. A popular venue for those on their way to The Village and The Sugar Club.

Thomas Read Smithfield B-2, Smithfield Plaza, Dublin 7, tel. 657 3900, www.thomasreadbar-smithfield.ie. Much like its Dame St counterpart, Thomas Read in Smithfield boasts a chilled atmosphere (thanks to both the staff and re-laxed clientele) good music and nice surroundings. It’s another string to the bow of Smithfield which has really blossomed over the past few years. A little north of the centre, the area is worth that extra mile. Chill out on Sunday afternoons or dig into their good lunch menu any day.

ClubsA.L.T. B-2, Andrew’s Lane, nr. Drury St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 5723. Formerly Andrew’s Lane Theatre, A.L.T. is Dublin’s newest live music venue and nightclub. Since reopening, it has already played host to a number of bands and DJs. A club on Fri and Sat; depending on the night, the noticeably good sound system belts out alternative and rock floor-fillers, or less frequently, a special guest DJ spins anything from electronica to hip-hop (you might want to investigate beforehand). Imaginatively decorated by graffiti artists, the crowd (late teens, early 20s) is a little younger than in other venues of its type, which is no bad thing.

Copperface Jacks B-3, 29 Harcourt St, Dublin 2, tel. 475 8777. This is a very, very popular nightclub though clearly not for all tastes. It’s crowded, very loud and has two fairly big floors. The music mixes old dance favourites, current chart staples and crowd-pleasers. Copperface Jacks has been a staple of Dublin nightlife for over a decade and its customers are mostly young. A lot of out-of-towners drink there, and its proximity to the Harcourt St Garda station (police station) makes it a favourite with off-duty gards. One of the reasons for Copper’s enduring success is its popularity with single folk. And who are we to judge?

Lillies Bordello B/C-2, Adam Court, Grafton St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 9204, www.lilliesbordello.ie. A pretty exclusive (and exclusively priced) club, Lillies has long been a favourite for media types, and it must be admitted that many international celebrities have frequented the place (including, legend has it, Tarantino and Bono, though probably not at the same time). The club itself is nicely laid out and surprisingly small, with two VIP areas and one for the masses. Mainstream dance music, plush surroundings and some nice cocktails make this place a treat for those who don’t mind a snooty door policy.

RiRá B-2, Dame Court, Dublin 2, tel. 671 1220, www.rira.com. One of the best clubs in Dublin, RiRá usually boasts a mix of hip hop, funk and whatever makes your hips move. Its name (pronounced ‘ree-raw’) is derived from the Irish expression rira agus ruaille buaile, which (very roughly) translates to ‘messy fun’. Anyway, it’s got some nice nooks and crannies, a smallish dancefloor, some cosy seats and even a foosball table in its basement. The ground floor is mellower and quieter, with laid-back tunes and a retro film on an overhead projector. Admission varies from free to €10. QOpen 11:00 - 02:30.

Sugar Club C-3, 8 Lower Leeson St, Dublin 2, tel. 678 7188, www.thesugarclub.com. Music varies depending on when you go, but one word describes its appearance - cool. Beautifully laid out in black and crimson, The Sugar Club has a bar on the left, a nice theatre-style tiered seating layout on the right, and another bar at the back. As a venue, events vary from music to comedy to cabaret and even the odd table quiz. As a club, nights vary from hip-hop, to funk. It’s always good, but we particularly recommend any night that Miss Dandelion is on the decks playing 60s rock and pop. The sound system is good too.

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and renovated it. The makeover extended beyond a lick of paint, and a stage now takes pride of place at the end of the bar. Now just over a year old, PantiBar has firmly established itself in the local gay scene - competing strongly with The George and The Front Lounge. Not surprisingly, it plays host to a number of special nights, including drag performances, karaoke and movie nights. We hear the Panti show on Thurs-days is a blast. Though deservedly popular, PantiBar might be a bit full-on for certain tastes. Q Open from 17:00.

Indie music venuesDice Bar B-2, Queen St, Smithfield, Dublin 7, tel. 633 3936, www.thatsitdublin.com. “I feel like I’m in a Martin Scorsese movie”, a friend told us when we were drinking here. We can see where he’s coming from. Partly owned by Huey Morgan of the Fun Loving Criminals and slightly off the beaten track (a little bit west of the city centre), the interior does look and sound like a set from a New York movie - with its dark painted walls and decidedly American music selection from The Ronettes to Buddy Holly to The Pixies. You’ll find some punky, funky and eccentric-types here, but mostly just those who like good tunes and a slightly different kind of pub. Dimly-lit with nice beers too.

Whelans B-3, 25 Wexford St, off Camden St, Dublin 2, tel. 478 0766, www.whelanslive.com. Recently refur-bished, but still not too fancy, Whelans is an understated pub and fantastic music venue. Its wooden interiors and laid-back vibe are appropriate given its strong reputation as a music venue. It’s a good place for a quiet afternoon pint, or a night out as the gig section opens the doors to join the pub on weekends. This makes for a fun (if sometimes jam-packed) indie music club. Many local musicians played this venue on their way up and some still drink there. The punters vary in age and style, but the most common thread is a love for music and late drinks.

Late barsBia Bar B-2, Lwr Stephen’s St, off George’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 4053 653, www.biabar.ie. A slick looking place, Bia Bar works both as an evening pub and a great place for lunch. The menu is pretty great - high standard pub food like salads, burgers and whatnot are to be had, but we recommend the bangers and mash. The music is a nice mix of alternative, funk and floor fillers, the décor is a plush but inviting cop-per, black and purple feature. For the smokers, the outdoor smoking area is definitely better than average. Oh, and their reputable pizzas are served until 23:00 Thurs-Sat. Q Late bar Thurs-Sat. W

Bruxelles B/C-2, Harry St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 5362. Next to the statue of Phil Lynnot, this bar is unofficially split into three sections. Upstairs is a normal Dublin pub and downstairs is divided by music - rock to the left, indie-rock to the right. In a nice location just off Grafton Street, the pub inevitably attracts a varying clientelle from city workers to ageing bikers, regular dubs, indie kids and tourists. It’s a busy place, but keep an eye out for the snug little corner upstairs, secluded from the (occasionally) maddening crowd. On those rare occasions when the weather’s nice, the outdoor seats are perfect for al fresco pints. A friendly, warm bar with great music too.

Café En Seine C-2, 40 Dawson St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 4369. In theory, this huge café bar with a cavernous ceiling should have the atmosphere of the moon. In practice, it’s a vibrant, popular place for the cool and (let’s face it) beautiful people. The crowd vary in age and style a little, but most are

Gay barsDragon B-2, South Great George’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 478 1590, www.capitalbars.com. This place has only become a gay bar in the last few years and is a big draw in the local scene. Loud, boisterous and fabulous fun, The Dragon is an unpretentious and lively place for singles, couples or groups. It’s also probably the most drag queen-friendly bar in Central Dublin. Expect anything... except a quiet drink!

Front Lounge B-2, 33 Parliament St, tel. 670 4112, www.frontloungedublin.com. The Front Lounge is not only the classiest gay-friendly bar in Dublin, what with its tasteful decor and comfy leather furniture, but it’s also pleasingly understated: it’s a popular place for gays and lesbians to bring their straight friends (though the vast majority of customers are gay). Depending on the night, there could be a DJ, jazz band or karaoke (hosted by the sardonic drag queen, Plenty O’Toole). For the most part, though, it’s just a nice, comfort-able bar. They serve lunch too and the food is good, even if the service can be a little slow; a relaxing meal, in other words, but not somewhere to eat if you’re in a rush.

George B-2, Georges St, Dublin 2, tel. 478 2983, www.capitalbars.com. As a gay bar it’s practically an institution, and indeed, a big draw in the local scene with a lot more niche than, say, The Front Lounge. As a place for young guys to meet, we’ve heard a lot of endorsements, and on a Friday or Satur-day night you can hear the crowd and music from across the street. Its Sunday night bingo, hosted by TV personality Shirley Temple Bar, are almost legendary. If you’re lucky, cross-dressing performance artist Veda will be performing that night too. But the must-see is Veda’s drag show on Wednesday nights which comprise of funny, compelling and inventive lip-synching interpretations of all your favourite hits. You go girl.

PantiBar 7-8 Capel St, Dublin 1, tel. 989 7777, www.pantibar.com. Once upon a time this was Gubu, but that was before well-known Dublin drag queen Miss Panti took it over

Fitzwilliam Card Club C-3, Clif ton Hall, Lower Fitzwilliam St, Dublin 2, tel. 611 4677, www.fitz-williamcardclub.com. It’s all gone Oceans Eleven at this large open-plan casino si tuated near salubrious Merrion Square. You may not bump into Pitt or Clooney,

but you will find yourself in convivial and relaxed sur-roundings as you up the ante at one of several gaming tables. Novices and regulars can join in the nightly poker games. Check out their website to see what suits you best, and phone the poker desk in advance if you’re looking for a particular game. Poker Festivals, Leagues and competitions are also held in this large Georgian room overlooked by a distinctive staircase and secluded Balcony Room - itself available for private parties. In Ire-land, by law, you have to be member to enter this casino which is designated a private members club. So don’t forget to bring valid photo ID to register and receive your free €10 bet. Although a casino and card club, you can also sit and enjoy a coffee and lunch without playing any of the games. Q 24hrs Free Membership.

Chips with everything

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pretty well turned out. A popular late bar with smooth music, it’s been known as a good spot for singles. During the day, it’s a really pleasant place for quiet coffee- nice furniture!

Castle Inn B-2, 4-5 Lord Edward St, Dublin 2, tel. 475 1122. Another micro-brewry, The Castle Inn has been around a long time, but only relatively recently has it upped the ante with an awe-inspiring international beer menu. We recommend the Bishop’s Finger (seriously) and Boston’s favourite, Sam Adams. The staff are really friendly and helpful and they have a decent food menu, too, in the downstairs bar that serves a mean fish and chips. Located near a central residential area, as well as beside some high profile hotels, the crowd is a nice mix of locals and tourists of different ages.

Czech Inn Essex Gate, Old City, Temple Bar, Dublin 8, tel. 671 1535. Formerly known as Isolde’s Towers, the Czech Inn has become popular with locals, Czechs, Polish, gays and straights, and tourists from all over. It’s not the most sophisticated venue in Dublin, but it can be a lot of fun. Open a little later than its neighbouring pubs (including gay bar The Front Lounge and the popular Porterhouse across the street), The Czech Inn is often the final stop before home, with very diverse people dancing to very mainstream music. The food, mostly Eastern European in origin, is not bad either.

Hogans B-2, 35 George’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 5904. Open nice and late, Hogans is a mixed bag of corners, high stools and low chairs. Loud funky music, dark surroundings and a hip crowd make this a very popular joint. The ground floor is a nice pub (even nicer if you’re lucky enough to get a table) and downstairs, which opens when it gets a little crowded, has a club/pub feel with good DJs, a dancefloor and some inviting corners with tables too. With an international, easy-going crowd, it’s not a bad place to meet people either. Hogans is one of Dublin’s better pubs.

Messrs Maguire B-2, 1/2 Burgh Quay, Dublin 2, tel. 670 5777, www.messrsmaguire.ie. This late pub com-prises roughly four floors (the jury’s still out on whether the bit where the stairs descend near the entrance comprises a floor). It’s a nice place with a lively atmosphere or, if you’re there at off-peak times, a nice mellow vibe. The view from the upper floors is fantastic, especially if you’re lucky enough to get a window seat on one of the higher stories. They tend to have a big screen if there’s a major match, so it’s not a bad place to go if there’s one on. They’ve got nice unique beers on tap too, as well as some basic pub food. Recommended.

Number 3 Fade Street B-2, off Sth. Great Georges St. Tis a rare thing when a Dublin bar opens with no proper title: Other names being banded about include The Bar with No Name and Number 3. Even the entrance is low-key- a simple doorway with an occasional sign. The interior is like a classy speakeasy- domestic couches, tables and chairs, hardwood floors and lovely Georgian architecture create a fancy house party vibe. The music is a nice mix of soul and accessible al-ternative and the crowd are uber-cool 20 and 30-somethings. Still a little rough around the edges for now (no wheelchair access or even a phone), it’s still recommended.

Pravda B-2, Lower Liffey St, Dublin 1, tel. 874 0090, www.Pravda.ie. Despite its ostensibly Russian theme, Pravda is thankfully gimmick-free. This subtly-dimmed late bar with decent food is a great place for birthdays or late nights out. Friday and Saturday nights are especially rec-ommended for young, funky revelers of both genders.. the music is great and the crowd is cool. Open seven days, it

often boasts theme nights, from movies to live music, and DJs play mostly indie but, depending on the night, could play funk, soul, house or R&B.

The Village B-3, 26 Wexford St, Dublin 2, tel. 475 8555, www.thevillagevenue.com. This late bar/club hasn’t changed much in the last ten years. With other, somewhat similar bars (Whelans and Solas) on either side, The Village is part of a small hub of indie-centric pubs and clubs. The crowd are pretty funky (in the good way), and lean slightly to the bohemian side. It serves decent, pub-style food at fairly reasonable prices from noon to 20:30. The Village, open nice and late, usually has a great DJ (playing indie and a touch of hip-hop) but don’t sit too far apart from your friends because it’s very loud! Admission to the bar is free, but you can be charged anything up to €12 for the club QOpen 12:00 - 02:30, Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 24:00.

Traditional BarsBankers B-2, 16 Trinity St, off Dame St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 3697, www.myspace.com/Stand_Up_at_The_Bankers. As a pub it works pretty well - cosy and small with friendly customers and staff. It’s a nice place to watch a big match, and as a comedy venue it’s criminally underrated. Just down the road from The International Bar, Bankers is slowly establishing itself as the go-to place for those who want comedy in a less-packed venue. It’s small enough to fill up quickly and a typical gig boasts three comics of generally high standard. You’ll likely get at least 90 minutes of comedy for roughly the cost of going to the movies.

Cobblestone B-2, 77 North King St, Dublin 7, tel. 872 1799, www.myspace.com/thecobblestone. A little out of the way in Smithfield, The Cobblestone is a veritable Dublin institution. As popular with the young professionals who have recently descended on Smithfield as with locals who’ve drank there for years, this is an Irish bar in the best sense... the buzz of conversation and warm atmosphere is apparent even from the outside. Best of all, if you’re there at the right time, it’s home to some fine traditional Irish music - much better than in many of the tourist-baiting bars you’ll find in the city centre.

Davy Byrnes C-2, 21 Duke St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 5217, www.davybyrnes.com. Opened in 1889 and just off Grafton St, this pub has been going strong ever since. It has a strong association with James Joyce who used to be a regular here and mentioned it in his seminal tomes Dubliners and Ulysses. Every Bloomsday (16 June) tourists and locals flock here to sample the gorgonzola sandwich and glass of burgundy. Look up to catch a glimpse of the magnificent stained glass-domed ceiling. The fixtures are pre WW1 and the food top notch. It gets particularly full on Fridays, sunny evenings and rugby weekends. Arrive early and grab a seat outside to enjoy the sights of Dubliners passing by as you eat a tasty lunch or dinner and sink a cold drink. Q JK

Mulligans B-2, 8 Poolbeg St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 5582, www.mulligans.ie. Nestled snugly behind The Screen cinema and not too far from the office of the Irish Times, Mul-ligans is a deservedly popular, old fashioned pub. Stubbornly unchanged in its decades of existence, the bar is a popular haunt for writers and journalists, locals, and administrative centre drones that’ve put their hours in at one of the dozens of offices nearby. It gets a little crowded for comfort some-times, so try to get a seat early in the evening. The absence of music is more than made up for by the buzz of chatter, and they serve one of the best Guinnesses in town.

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Merry Ploughboy Rockbrook, Edmondstown Rd, Rathfarnham, Dublin 16, tel. 493 1495, www.mpbpub.com. Head a few miles south of the city towards the Dublin Mountains for a well-tuned night of traditional Irish music, sing-ing and dancing regarded as one of the best around. The pub itself dates back to the 1780s and, uniquely, is owned and run by traditional musicians - the eponymous Merry Ploughboys whose performance tops and tails the 2hr show. As authentic entertainment goes, this out-of-town option is hard to beat. In fact, it’s the city’s longest running night of its kind - and by the same performers... making reservations is a must. Find it off the M50 ringroad (exit 12 at the Firhouse/Ballyboden turn). The average taxi takes 25mins and costs around €15 (higher depending on passenger numbers, call-out charges etc). Q Shows Sun-Thu 20:30 - 22:30, Fri & Sat 21:00 - 23:00. Dinner (optional) served from 19:00. See also p.57.

O’Neill’s B-2, 2 Suffolk St, Dublin 2, tel. 679 3656, www.oneillsbar.com. Hstory-steeped - the premises have been licenced for over 300 years - and right across the road from Dublin’s biggest tourist information office, O’Neill’s is very much a Dublin pub. The convivial crowd is a nice mix of local Dubliners of different ages to out-of-towners and tourists. Lively on weekends, but never in your face, you’ll always find a nice corner or snug. Chow down to the award-winning Trad Irish carvery (daily 12:00 - 22:00), and kick up your heels to some Trad Irish music every Sun and Mon night. Sports fans should make a beeline for the bar on match days and imbibe the impassioned atmosphere with fellow fans. With several floors, and more than its share of nooks and crannies, if you’re meeting friends there, bring your phone.

Old Stand B-2, 37 Exchequer St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 7220, www.theoldstandpub.com. Some Dublin pubs are especially good for sitting at the bar, and this is one of them. This pub has been here for over 300 years... in Medieval times it was beside the Viking Parliament and more recently - with the Irish Parliament on College Green - has seen its share of politicians. Michael Collins used to drink here and sometimes hold meetings during the War of Independence. A keen sporting pub, hence the name, the Sam McGuire Cup (GAA) and rugby trophies have accompanied successful teams to the premises. Serving quality, hearty food that’s very popular with pre-theatre diners, we advise you get here pretty early to nab a seat (7.30pm on a Saturday evening should do the trick).

Stag’s Head B-2, Dame Court, Dublin 2, tel. 679 3701. Slightly hidden from its neighbouring Dame Street, The Stag’s Head, is a Dublin pub in the best sense. Attracting a varied clientele from the young to the old, the locals and the tourists, and the mainstream to the offbeat, The Stag’s Head spans a ground floor, first floor and basement and is reassuringly unpretentious. One reason for the varied crowd is the fact that it sits only a few yards from mainstream pubs (like Madigans and 4 Dame Lane) and slightly offbeat ones (like the Globe), but most punters, we imagine, are attracted to its simplicity. If you’re lucky, there’s good traditional Irish music there too.

Temple Bar B-2, 47-48 Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 672 5287, www.thetemplebarpub.com. Admittedly, this place is very touristy, but it’s also fun. Easy to find in (you’ve guessed it) Temple Bar, there are plenty of cosy corners to settle into for the evening. The crowd is very international, which means a lot of beautiful people of different appearance. One of its biggest selling points is the trad music, which is definitely better than you’d expect in such a touristy place. Trad ses-sions take place most afternoons and evenings and provide an ideal accompaniment to a bit of drinking.

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From giant needles to ancient manuscripts, there’s a land-mark and cultural hub at every turn. Museums and tours bring the city’s story to life, statues provide handy meeting points and parks create quiet escape from the throngs. Itls time to explore the real Dublin...

Cathedrals & Churches

B-2, Christchurch Place, Lord Edward St, Dublin 8, tel. 677 8099, www.cccdub.ie. Of Dublin’s two city centre cathedrals - both Church of Ireland - Christ Church is the oldest, with an early manuscript dating it back to 1030. Founded on the former site of a Viking church, construction began under the orders of the wonderfully-named Viking King Sitric Silkenbeard.Along with St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Christ Church served as the seat for the city’s five Bishops and subsequent Archbishops, the second of which - Laurence O’Toole - became Dublin’s patron saint. O’Toole and Norman con-queror Strongbow remodeled the cathedral in 1172.From the 12th Century Norman Conquest until Irish In-dependence in 1922, Christ Church reflected its English rulers’ fluctuation between the Catholic and Protestant faiths. In one pivotal period, King James restored Ca-tholicism and attended Mass in 1689. A year later the protestant King William gave thanks for his Battle of the Boyne victory and presented Christ Church with a set of gold communion plates.During the 16th and 17th Centuries, the cathedral was used as a market, meeting place and even a pub. Virtu-ally rebuilt in the 1870s, today it stands as a monument to the history and heritage of Ireland, and continues as a working church with daily services, and renowned bell ringing during Sun service 10:00 & 14:30 and Fri practice 19:00 - 21:00. Its many treasures and curiosities including Strongbow’s tomb, the large medieval crypt with its mummified cat and rat, and Dublin’s own leaning wall - by half a metre. The cathedral is linked by a stone bridge to the former Synod House which now houses the Dublinia & The Viking World museum. Q 09:45 - 17:00 or 18:00. Adults €6, Student/conc €4. Parent accompanied children free. Group discounts available. Those attending service, or for private prayer free .

Christ Church Cathedral

St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral C-2, 83 Marlborough St, Dublin 1, tel. 874 5441, www.procathedral.ie. Dating back to 1825 but built on an ancient monastic site, St. Mary’s serves as the Cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Dublin. The term ‘Pro’ comes from the Latin pro tempore meaning ‘temporary or provisional’ and was conferred by the Archbishop of Dublin in the 1880s. It stems from the fact that Dublin’s two main cathedrals - Christ Church and St. Patrick’s - were originally Catholic but became Church of Ireland during the Reformation. Over the centuries, no-one has revoked this status, and the city has no Catholic Cathedral to serve the majority religion. Until elevated to Cathedral status, St. Mary’s remains the Pro. The State funerals of Michael Collins and Éamon de Valera were held amid its splendid mix of Greek and Roman architecture and design. Attend Latin Mass on Sun at 11:00 to hear The Palestrina Choir sing sacred hymns in this sacred setting. Q07:30-18:45, Sat 07:30-19:15, Sun 09:00-13:45, 17:30-19:45. Free.

B-2/3, Saint Patrick’s Close, off Patrick St, Dublin 8, tel. 475 4817, www.stpatrick-scathedral.ie. Over 800 years old, Ireland’s largest church and the island’s National Cathedral was founded beside a sacred well where Saint Patrick is said to have baptised pagans and converted them to Christianity around 450A.D. A small wooden church was built to commemorate this visit and a cathedral building erected between 1200 and 1270 - a feat begun by the first Anglo-Norman bishop, John Comyn.Through years of erosion and persecution, the Church of Ireland building fell into disrepair but was restored by the Guinness family between 1860 and 1900. Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels, was Dean from 1713-1745 and is buried near the entrance. A selection of Swift artefacts can be found in the Cathedral including his epitaph, death mask, writings and a parchment awarding him the Freedom of the City of Dublin.One of the Cathedral’s most significant events was in 1742 when a combined choir with neighbouring Christ Church Cathedral gave the first public performance of Handel’s Messiah. This strong singing tradition continues today with two sung services daily (except Sat) during school term - the only Cathedral to do so in Britain and Ireland. It’s a not-to-be missed experience in a truly inspirational setting.Saint Patrick’s, perhaps more than any other building in Ireland, embodies the history and heritage of Irish people of all backgrounds from the earliest times to the present day. Which is why each year over 300,000 visitors and pilgrims visit the cathedral and its Living Stones exhibition which celebrates its place in the life of the city, its history, and role in the future. Q09:00-17:30. Last admission 17:00. Visit-ing restricted during service times. Adults €5.50, Students/Seniors €4.50, €15 (2+2). Group rates available.

Saint Patrick’s Cathedral

St. Michan’s Church B-2, Church St, Dublin 7, tel. 872 4154, Built in 1685, on the site of the oldest church on Dublin’s North Side, this Church of Ireland parish houses what must be the city’s most ghoulish attraction. Due to an unusual combina-tion of magnesium salts in the limestone, the crypts beneath the church are without any moisture, resulting in the perfect preservation of those buried within. Four damaged coffins reveal their inhabitants, in all too human form, and the dungeon-like setting is quite a spine-tingling sight. The adjacent crypt con-tains the ornate coffins of The Earl of Leitrim’s family as well as artefacts (and more coffins) from the 1798 Rising. Curiously, some families still own “plots” within the crypts, so more could be added, although this rarely happens. Q Services: 10:00 2nd and 4th Sun of the month. Tours €4. Times vary.

Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church B-2/3, 56 Aungier St, Dublin 2, tel. 475 8821, www.carmelites.ie. Built in the early 1800s on the site of a 16th Century pre-Reformation Carmelite Priory, the church was actually founded in 1279. Step through the doors of this imposing grey-fronted building and discover many religious shrines surrounded by brightly burning candles.Just inside the main door is a large Calvary Shrine. Then inside the main church there are more shrines to, among others, St Albert of Sicily, St Anthony and - in a particularly striking Grotto scene - Our Lady of Lourdes. The church’s most historic Shrines are undoubtedly those of Our Lady of Dublin and St.

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Step into the heart of medieval Dublin.

Christ Church Cathedral &Dublinia & The Viking World

For further information telephone01 679 4611 or email [email protected] www.cccdub.ie

Open Daily - Exhibitions - Treasures - Gift Shops

Step into the heartof medieval Dublin.

Christ Church Cathedral &Dublinia & The Viking World

For further information telephone01 679 4611 or email [email protected] www.cccdub.ie

Open Daily - Exhibitions - Treasures - Gift Shops

Step into the heartof medieval Dublin.

Valentine. The former is said to date back to the 16th Century and was discovered by Father John Spratt in a secondhand shop in 1824, having been discarded following the Reforma-tion. The lifesize oak figure of Mary holding the infant Jesus stands serenely in a majestical shrine, its dark hue made all the more eye-catching by the stunning surrounding.Father Spratt was also responsible for bringing the remains of St. Valentine to Dublin. Following a visit to Rome, where the venerated preacher attracted many crowds, the Saint’s relics were gifted to Father Spratt and his Carmelite Church by Pope Gregory XVI. Every Feb 14, soon-to-be-married couples attend a special Mass and a Blessing of Rings.During your visit, take time to read the history of the Carmel-ite Order, founded in the 12th Century on Mount Carmel in present-day Israel, browse through the shop and have a cup of tea in the adjoining cafe. A perfect respite from the busy city. Open daily. Masses: Mon-Sat: 08:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:10 & 15:00. Sun: Vigil Mass (Sat: 18:00) 08:00, 09:30, 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 16:00 and 19:00.

CemeteriesGlasnevin Cemetery Finglas Rd, Glasnevin, Dublin 11, tel. 830 1133, www.glasnevin-cemetery.ie. Ireland’s National Cemetery opened in 1832 and is the final resting place for many modern Irish heroes, including statesmen Michael Collins, Daniel O’Connell and Eamon DeValera, writers Jonathan Swift and Brendan Behan, Maud Gonne MacBride, Countess Markievicz and many more. At 124 acres, it’s Ireland’s largest cemetery and with the tallest round tower. The cemetery is still in use today. Walking tours last about 1½ hrs and maps are on sale in the flower shop. Free walk-ing tours are available every Wed and Fri at 14:30. Q Open 08:00 - 17:30.

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Historic BuildingsBank of Ireland B/C-2, Dame St , Dublin 2, tel. 677 6801. Commanding a prominent position overlooking Trin-ity College, this grand colonnaded building completed in 1739 was the world’s first custom-built Parliament House. It continued as such until the 1800 Act of Union when Ireland came under direct rule from London. Three years later, the Bank of Ireland bought it as their HQ for £40,000. In 1782, Parliamentarian and Act of Union opposer Henry Grattan declared “Ireland is now a nation!” from here and today his statue stands outside. Inside, marvel at the former Irish House of Lords, large historic tapestries of the Battle of the Boyne and Seige of Derry, and a magnificent 18th Century chandelier glistening with 1233 crystal pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:30 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Free.

Custom House C-2, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1, tel. 888 2000, www.environ.ie. Sprawling along the River Liffey’s north bank Quay, this landmark building was designed by James Gandon and completed in 1791 at over £200,000. Built on reclaimed land, its four façades feature sculptures, coats-of-arms and carved keystones - known as riverine heads - representing the Atlantic Ocean and Ireland’s 13 main rivers. During the Irish Civil War the inside was com-pletely destroyed by a five-day fire which melted the dome and destroyed many archives. The dome and drum were completely rebuilt in Irish Ardbraccan limestone and the rest of the building is in the original, brighter Portland stone. A 16ft statue of Commerce tops the building which today houses the Dept. of the Environment, Heritage and Local Government. QOpen Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Free.

Dáil Eireann C-2, Leinster House, Kildare St, Dublin 2, tel. 618 3781, www.oireachtas.ie. Built in 1745 for the Duke of Leinster, this Georgian mansion is home to the Na-tional Parliament of Ireland. Its design is said to have inspired that of the White House - itself designed by an Irish architect. The Royal Dublin Society bought the building in 1815 and added a lecture theatre - now the Dáil chamber. The Repub-lic of Ireland’s first government acquired the building from 1922-24. There are two houses of the Oireachtas (National Parliament). Dáil Eireann is the House of Representatives and its TDs (Teachtaí Dála) or Assembly Delegates are elected by the public. Seanad Éireann is The Senate whose sixty repre-sentatives are nominated or elected. Tours take 25 -30mins, and when the House is in session it may be possible to sit for some time in the Public Gallery. To tour the Houses of the Oireachtas, you must be sponsored by a Member/Embassy. Contact your local TD, Embassy or Honorary Consular Repre-sentative who will contact the Events Desk on your behalf to make the necessary appointment. Q Tours normally taken Mon-Fri: 10:30, 11:30, 14:30 & 15:30. Free.

Dublin City Hall B-2, Dame St, Dublin 2, tel. 222 2204, www.dublincity.ie. Perched at the top of Parlia-ment St, this grand Georgian building, designed by re-nowned architect Thomas Cooley, was originally the Royal Exchange and became the centre of municipal government in 1852. City Hall has one of the best views in Dublin and its atmospheric vaults house a multimedia exhibition on the city’s history - The Story of the Capital. The self-guided exhibition takes just one hour and tells the tale of this unique and ever changing city using medieval manuscripts, archive newsreel footage and precious artefacts. A small cafe and shop are located at the entrance to top and tail your visit. Free guided tours are by prior arrangement, and

SAINT PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL DUBLINSaint Patrick's Close, Dublin 8T: +353 (0) 1 453 9472 (office) +353 (0) 1 475 4817 (cathedral)E: [email protected]: www.stpatrickscathedral.ie

Times of services:Mon-Fri09.40: Matins (School term only)17.45: Evensong

Sun:08.30: Eucharist11.15: Sung Eucharist /Choral Matins15.15: Choral Evensong Entrance fees: Adult: €5.50 Student: €4.50 Family: €15

Please see our website for further details of the cathedral, its services and events.

Opening Times:Daily: 09.00-17.30

(last admission 30mins before closing)Visiting is restricted during service times.

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audio guides and leaflets are available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, English and Irish. Q10:00-17:15, Sun and Bank Holidays 14:00-17:00. Last admission 1hr before closing. €4/2/1.50/(2 + 4) €10. J

Four Courts B-2, Inns Quay, Dublin 7, www.courts.ie. Visible from all along the Liffey, this Dublin landmark has been a bastion of law for over 200 years. Designed by Thomas Colley then, after his death, James Gandon and built from 1796-1802, the building boasts an imposing 132m facade with an entrance door leading to the great Round Hall and the Four Courts. I ts name comes from Ireland’s original four court justice system which today comprises the Supreme and High Courts. Like many of Dublin’s finest buildings, the structure was almost com-pletely destroyed - and 800 years of priceless public records lost forever - during the 1922 Irish Civil War. Today you can still see bullet holes in its facade as a reminder of this tumultuous event. The rebuilt structure re-opened a decade later, and its dome appeared on Ireland’s £20 note before the introduction of the Euro currency. Q Mon - Fri 11:00-13:00, 14:00-16:00. Free.

Kilmainham Gaol Inchicore Rd, Kil-mainham, Dublin 8, tel. 453 5984, www.heritageire-land.com. Ireland’s most famous prison was built in 1792 and is one of Europe’s largest unoccupied gaols. Now a mu-

seum, the jail - with its imposing Victorian wing and bleak, confined cells - is synonymous with the Irish fight for Indepen-dence. Its prison yard was where the leaders of the 1916 Eas-ter Rising were executed by a British Army firing squad, and its last prisoner was Éamon de Valera, first President of the Free State the Republic of Ireland. After De Valera’s release in 1924 Kilmainham Gaol was shut down, then restored in the ‘60s. Commemorative plaques, original graffiti and prisoner art combine to create a unique and absorbing perspective on Irish social and political history. Several movies have been filmed here, including Michael Collins, In The Name of the Father and, perhaps less conspicuously, The Italian Job. One hour tours run every 30mins and include an audio visual presentation. Q Oct-March: Mon-Sat 09:30 - 17:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Adult €6, Senior Citizen/Group €4, Child/Student €2, Family €14.

Landmarks & MonumentsHa’penny Bridge B-2, Bachelors Walk, Wellington Quay. No trip to Dublin is complete without the obligatory photo opportunity against the backdrop of this famous walkway. Built as the Wellington Bridge in 1816 by William Walsh, it was the first between Capel Street and O’Connell Bridges, and the Liffey’s only pedestrian crossing until the Millennium Bridge opened in 2000. For 100 years, pedestrians were charged a halfpenny toll to cross its 43m, hence the enduring nickname. Its familiar arched silhouette also suggests the coin-related moniker. The bridge was closed in 2001 for major repair and reopened 2003 with its original paint colour restored. Today it is one of the oldest cast-iron bridges in the world, and its location at the gateway to Temple Bar virtually guarantees at least one traverse for any camera-happy traveller.

Molly Malone statue C-2, Grafton St, Dublin 2. The city’s most famous lady is immortalised in the eponymous song telling the story of a humble fishmonger who wheeled her wheelbarrow through the streets broad and narrow (and so forth). Whether or not her trade directly involved the delivery of seafood is up for debate... but locals refer to her as the Tart with the Cart. You be the judge.

Spire of Dublin B/C-2, O’Connell St, Dublin 1, www.spireofdublin.com. Piercing Dublin’s skyline is this unmissable silver shard of stainless steel standing proudly on a bronze base symbolising Ireland’s past. Rising 120m, the hollow structure is almost twice as high as Liberty Hall, Dublin’s original seven storey ‘skyscraper’. Its 3m-wide base tapers to a 15cm point, the last 12m of which provide an illuminated beacon for the city’s night sky. Completed on 21 Jan 2003, the construction is designed to safely sway up to 1.5m in high winds, and 12000 tiny holes allow light to pass through, enhancing its daylight impact. Officially called the Monument of Light, early name suggestions included The Sword of Light, Dublin Gleams and Brian Boru. However, as befits an enduring trend to rechristen local landmarks, Dublin-ers have dubbed it the Stiletto in the Ghetto, the Nail in the Pale and several other names we daren’t print. Situated outside the GPO, the Spire replaces Nelson’s Pillar which was destroyed by an IRA explosion in 1966.

Museums & GalleriesChester Beatty Library B-2, Dublin Castle, off Dame St, Dublin 2, tel. 407 0750, www.cbl.ie. This award-winning library and art museum is housed in the 18th Century Clock Tower Building and adjoining modern purpose-built gallery. It contains the personal collection of Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, a wealthy American miner who, on his death in 1968, bequeathed his unique collection to the Irish public - on condition that it bear his name. Its rare treasures of ancient and religious manuscripts and art represent the world’s great cultures from Asia and the Middle East to North Africa and Europe. Beautifully illustrated Korans, rich Egyptian papyrus and colourful Chi-nese dragon robes are among the many fascinating items on display. The Silk Road Café reflects the global theme with food from exotic destinations such as Afghanistan, Morocco and Palestine, and the gift shop sells Fair Trade products. Sir Arthur was made Ireland’s first honourary citizen in 1957 and would doubtless approve of his legacy’s final resting place. Tours are themed, so plan in advance. Q10:00-17:00, Sat 11:00-17:00, Sun 13:00-17:00. Closed Mon. Free. K

Dublinia & The Viking World B-2, St Michael’s Hill, Christchurch, Lord Edward St. Dublin 8, tel. 679 4611, www.dublinia.ie. Dublin’s medieval past is brought to life in this interactive exhibition which traces the city’s history from Norman Knight Strongbow to Henry Vlll. A bustling market, wealthy merchant’s house and the reconstructed face of a 900-year-old Dublin woman will keep children fascinated and adults agog. The Viking World element recounts the Scandinavian’s invasion and subsequent three century domination of Western Europe. Both exhibi-tions are self-guided and last around one hour. Weather permitting, you can also climb St. Michael’s Tower’s 96 steps for a panoramic view of the city. Q Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00, Sat & Sun 10:00-16:00. Last admission 45mins before closing. Adults €6.25, Senior Citizen €5, Student €5.25, Children €3.75, 2+3 €17, Additional children with a family ticket €1.90 each, Free to wheelchair users and their helpers. Discounted admission to adjoining Christ Church Cathedral (excluding guided tour). JK

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Dublin Writers Museum B-2, 18 Parnell Square, Dublin 1, tel. 872 2077, www.writersmuseum.com. This restored Georgian mansion provides a sui tably salubrious setting in which to celebrate 300 years of Ireland’s outstanding li terary legacy. As befits a nation synonymous with award-winning scribes, the museum is an ornate backdrop for prose, poetry, plays and personal possessions from the likes of Wilde, Beckett, Joyce and Yeats. All genres are represented from the magnificent horror of Bram Stoker’s Dracula to the imaginative alle-gory that is Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels. A section is also devoted to children’s li terature, and portraits and sculptures bring each writer into focus. A coffee shop, crafts and bookshop continue to capture the creative mood and keep your cultural juices flowing. QMon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-17:00. Last admission 45mins before closing. €7.25/6.10/4.55, Family €21. Combined tickets also available with the James Joyce Museum and The Shaw Bir thplace (open May-Sept).

GAA Museum & Stadium Tours C-1, New Cusack Stand, Croke Park, St. Joseph’s Ave, Dublin 3, tel. 819 2323, museum.gaa.ie. Founded in 1884, the Gaelic Athletic Association is responsible for Ireland’s four na-tional games: hurling, Gaelic football, camogie (women’s hurling) and handball. Croke Park - the Association’s magnificent showcase stadium (cap. 82,500) and HQ - is home to a museum celebrating the GAA’s unique historic, sporting and cultural significance. Tours take place hourly Mon-Sat 11:00-15:00, Sun 13:00-15:00 (except match days), bringing you behind-the-scenes at this vast sport-ing - and occasional rock concert - venue. Many GAA members played a pivotal role in Ireland’s struggle for Independence and, to this day, the Associa-tion acts as an important conduit for Ireland’s indigenous heritage. Forty audiovisual shows feature players and past events, including the stadium’s darkest hour when, in 1920, the British Army’s Black and Tans murdered 13 spectators and player Michael Hogan in an indiscriminate attack. A relaxation of rules banning non-GAA sports has seen Ireland’s soccer and rugby teams using Croke Park while Lansdowne Road undergoes major redevelopment. Ameri-can Football matches, the opening and closing ceremo-nies of the 2003 Special Olympics (the first outside the USA) and the Mohammed Ali v Al ‘Blue’ Lewis 1972 boxing match have also been staged here. And Antipodean visi-tors will enjoy the International Rules exhibit highlighting Gaelic and Aussie Rules Foootball matches. The Museum Cafe is open Mon-Sat 10:00-15:00 and match days. Q Mon - Sat 09:30 - 17:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. Museum: Adult €5.50, Student/Senior €4, U-12 €3.50, 2+2 €15, U-5 free. Museum and Stadium Tour: Adult €10.50, Student €8, Senior €7.50, U-12 €7, 2+2 €28. K

Hugh Lane Gallery B-2, Charlemont House, Parnell Sq Nth, Dublin 1, tel. 222 5550, www.hughlane.ie. Founded in 1908, and regarded as the world’s first known public gallery of modern art, this important collection is housed in a striking 18th Century house and named after its art connoisseur founder. The collection encompasses over 2000 pieces from artists such as Manet, Monet, Degas and Renoir, and Irish artists including Jack B. Yeats and John Lavery. Uniquely, a reconstruction with original contents of Francis Bacon’s Reece Mews Studio is also on display. Visitors can loose themselves, figuratively speak-ing, in the Bookshop and Café. Q10:00-18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: Free to the permanent collection. JK

Irish Museum of Modern Art A-2, Military Rd, Kil-mainham, Dublin 8, tel. 612 9900, www.imma.ie. Set in the old Royal Hospital, Kilmainham - founded in 1684 and restored 300 years later - this striking museum opened in 1991 and features a collection of 4500 contemporary Irish and international works of art. Among the artists represented are Damien Hirst and Gilbert and George, and there’s even a film by Oscar-winning Irish director Neil Jordan. Aside from enjoying the art, take time to wander around the formal gardens and courtyard where numerous films have been shot. Guided Tours, Grass Roots Café (Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00) and a bookshop are all on site to further embellish your IMMA experience. Q10:00-17:30, Wed 10:30-17:30, Sun 12:00-17:30. Closed Mon. Free.

James Joyce Centre 35 North Great Georges St, Dublin 1, tel. 878 8547, www.jamesjoyce.ie. Built in 1784 for the Earl of Kenmare, the original plasterwork of this fine Georgian townhouse was restored using photographs taken by Joyce’s friend, Constantine Curran. Prof. Denis J. Maginni ran a Dance Academy from the house and was im-mortalised by Joyce as a character in Ulysses. The Centre was founded by Senator David Norris and members of the Monaghan family, descendents of Joyce’s sister May. There is an exhibition and archive, and visitors are welcome to peruse the library’s reference material and translations of Joyce’s works. Cafe Ulysses serves coffee, tea and pastries and The Bookshop ensures you leave with the finest literary leafs and treats. A reading group - open to the public - meets every Tues from mid-Sept to mid-June at 19:30 to read and discuss Joyce’s work. Themed Walking Tours (€10/8) Sat 11:00 and 14:00. QTues-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. Adults €5, Students/Seniors €4. Tours and group rates available. JK

Q. Who held the keys to the Dublin City Seal’s safe?

The Lord Mayor of DublinA. The Master TannerB. The Master BakerC.

�e Story of the CapitalD’ C H

City Hall ExhibitionCity Hall, Dame Street, Dublin 2. Telephone 01 222 2204 Website http://www.dublincity.ie/Pages/CityHall.aspx

�e Story of the Capital takes just 1 hour and tells of over 1,000 years of the history of this unique and ever changing city. From trade to war, Dublin has had a colourful past.

Learn all about it at

{ Answer. All of the above held keys to the 'Hanaper' or Safe which held the City Seal, on display in City Hall. Merchants were central to governing the Medieval City. }

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Blaze ad dubguide.indd 1 26/11/2008 15:46:22

National Archaeology & History Museum of Ire-land Kildare St, Dublin 2, tel. 1890 MUSEUM, www.museum.ie. This late 19th Century building has an 18m high entrance with classical columns of Irish marble, and a hall that opens onto a great central court. Around this are exhibition rooms and a gallery where over 2million objects unearth Irish history from the prehistoric to late medieval periods. High-lights include Iron Age bog bodies, Ancient Egypt and Viking artefacts and one of Western Europe’s largest collections of prehistoric goldwork. Seek out are the Tara Brooch (c.700AD) and Ardagh Chalice (c.800-900AD), two of Ireland’s most ornate and significant national treasures. Q10:00-17:00, Sun 14:00-17:00. Closed Mon. Free.

National Gallery of Ireland Merrion Square West & Clare St, Dublin 2, tel. 661 5133, www.nationalgallery.ie. Paintings, sculptures and objets d’art are all housed in this 19th Century building whose façade replicates that of the National History Museum. The new Millennium Wing has created a striking contemporary edge. The Gallery houses the national collection of Irish art and work by European Masters from Gains-borough to Goya, Vermeer to Velázquez and Picasso to El Greco. The Turner collection goes on display every Jan - a throwback to the benefactor’s stipulation intended to protect and preserve his precious donation. Jack B. Yeats, the great 20th Century Irish artist and brother of poet Wiliam B. Yeats, heads up the indigenous collection, and changing exhibitions keep culture lovers coming back for more. Free Public Tours: Sat 15:00, Sun 14:00, 15:00 and 16:00. Q09:30-17:30, Thu 09:30-20:30, Sun 12:00-17:30. Free. Donations welcome. JK

National Decorative Arts & History Museum of Ireland A-2, Collins Barracks, Benburb St, Dublin 7, tel. 1890 MUSEUM, www.museum.ie. Get a true feeling of history at this former barracks which housed troops for over three centuries. When handed over to the Free State Army in 1922, they were renamed Collins Barracks after Michael Collins, the Army’s first commander-in-chief. The uniform he was wearing when shot is on display, alongside exhibitions on Irish military and civilians in wartime, and a major documentation of the Easter Rising and Irish Civil War. On the decorative arts side, the museum also showcases some of Ireland’s finest designs - including clothing, jewellery, furniture, glassware, ceramics, glassware and silver. Artefacts of international origin are also on display, most notably The Fonthill Vase, a Chinese porcelain vase presented in 1338 by the Chinese Emperor to Pope Benedict XII. Find the museum on the red LUAS line or avail of the free car park-ing on site. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Free. LK

Blaze Away A new exhibition examines duelling in Ireland and the work of two Irish families who made swords and guns in 19th Century Dublin. Named after the phrase used to start a duel, Blaze Away highlights the work of Ireland’s most famous gun makers, the Rigby family of Suffolk St, and Ireland’s most renowned sword makers, the Read family of Parliament St. The Museum has brought out of storage its large collection of swords and guns, many of which have never before been viewed by the public. Using the latest interactives, the exhibition explores the history of this gruesome practice and also places duelling in its social and economic context. A lec-ture series in conjunction with Blaze Away will run during early 2009. Check Museum website for updates.

Blaze Away

Parks & GardensGarden of Remembrance B-2, Parnell Square, Dublin 1. Just off O’Connell Street is this small and peaceful park where a sculpture of Irish legend the Children of Lir - turned into swans by a jealous stepmother - overlooks a crucifix-shaped mosaic pond. Opened in 1966 on the 50th anniversary of the Easter Rising, the park is dedicated to those who died in the pursuit of Irish freedom. As the name suggests, this is a tranquil place where you can reflect on life and take a welcome break from the big city. QOpen 09:30 - 16:00. Free.

Iveagh Gardens B-3, Dublin 2, tel. 475 7816, www.heritageireland.ie. Walk around the back of the National Concert Hall or through Clonmel St. off Harcourt St. and you’ll discover Dublin’s very own secret garden. Not having a grand entrance keeps its charms hidden, but once inside, it’s a real delight. Now almost completely restored, the garden features a box hedge maze with sundial, rustic grotto and water cascade, archery grounds and woodlands. A touch of pastoral romance in the heart of the city... we dare you not to fall in love. Q Open: Mon-Sat 08:00, Sun 10:00. Closed according to daylight hours. Free.

Merrion Square C-2/3, Dublin 2. Georgian Dublin’s showpiece square - and the city’s largest - is framed on three sides by beautifully maintained Georgian houses, and on the fourth by the Natural History Museum, National Art Gallery and the garden of Leinster House, the Irish Parliament. Once inside, look for the statue of Oscar Wilde who lived at No. 1 Merrion Square. Other famous residents included WB Yeats, who resided at No. 82, and 19th Century MP and champion of Catholic Emancipation Daniel O’Connell. Walk around its perimeter to see those famous multi-hued Georgian doors, many of which bear plaques commemorat-ing their well-known residents. On Sun (10:00 - 18:30), the park’s railings become an art gallery. For more info check out www.merrionsquareart.com. Q Open: Mon-Sat 08:00, Sun 10:00. Closed according to daylight hours. Free.

National Botanic Gardens Glasnevin, Dublin 9, tel. 804 0300, www.botanicgardens.ie. Almost 20 hectares of beautifuly landscaped gardens create a colourful kaleidoscope of indigenous and international plants at reland’s horticultural hub. Founded in 1795, the Gardens are 5km north-west of Dublin and make a great daytrip, particularly if the weather’s on your side. Glasshouses, statues and garden features, along with thousands of beautiful plants, reveal a different vista at every turn. Tours available - with times posted in the Visitors Centre which also has a display, restaurant and head of a Gi-ant Irish Deer. Q 09:00 - 18:00, Free Tours Sun 12:00 and 14:30. Car Park €2 . L

St. Stephen’s Green B/C-3, Dublin 2, tel. 475 7816, www.heritageireland.ie. At the top of Grafton Street is undoubtedly one of Dublin’s top attractions and arguably Ireland’s most prominent Victorian park. Once the domain of the city’s well-to-do, this 22acre park was opened to the public and re-designed in the late 19th Century, with help from the Guinness family. Enter the Grafton Street end through the Fusilier’s Arch or “Traitors Gate” which commemorates the Royal Dublin Fusiliers who died during the Second Boer War. Other memorials of note include a Wolfe Tone statue and Famine sculpture (known by some as ‘Tonehenge’ on account of their stark stone design), James Joyce bust, and the Yeats Garden with Henry Moore sculpture. Children love feeding the ducks in the large lake which is crossed by Dublin’s ‘other’ O’Connell Bridge. Q Open: Mon-Sat 08:00, Sun 10:00. Closed according to daylight hours. Christmas Day 10:00 - 13:00. Free.

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Parkgate St, Dublin 7, tel. 677 0095. Just north of the River Liffey from Heuston Station is Dublin’s best known park - the largest enclosed urban park in Europe and twice the size of New York’s Central Park. Its sprawling 712 hectares are dotted with ornamental gar-dens, numerous monuments, a cricket pitch, football pitches, polo club and nature trails. Dublin Zoo is here, and the animal quota is further enhanced with grazing livestock, and a herd of wild Fallow deer roaming the woodlands. The large white Papal Cross marks the spot where over one million people came to see Pope John Paul II celebrate mass in 1979. At 62m high, the Wellington Monument in the south-east of the park is Europe’s largest obelisk. Formerly in the Guinness family, the 78 acre Farmleigh estate is home to the beautifully restored Farmleigh House (t.815 5900) where visiting VIPs overnight, important government meetings are held and the public can enjoy tours, events and occasional food markets. Across the road from the US Ambassador’s Residence is perhaps the park’s most significant building Áras an Uachtaráin (t. 617 1000) – the official residence of the President of Ireland. In a tradition started by former President Mary Robinson, a light stays on in an upstairs window as a reminder of Irish exiles and emigrants. Free guided tours are held every Sat (10:30 - 15:30) - tickets available at the Park’s Visitor Centre on a first come, first served basis.

Phoenix Park Visitors Centre Phoenix Park, Dublin 7, tel. 677 0095, www.heritageireland.ie. The Centre has an exhibition on the history and wildlife of the park and an audio visual presentation showing how it has progressed through the ages from 3500BC to pres-ent day. Ashtown Castle - a fully restored medieval tower house - is next door. Follow the signs from the Phoenix Monument - the tall stone column topped by the mythi-cal bird. Admission incl. guided castle tour. QWed-Sun Feb: 09:30-17:30, March: 10:00-18:00. Last admission 45mins-1hr before closing. Free.

Phoenix Park

War Memorial Gardens South Circular Rd, Island-bridge, Dublin 8, tel. 677 0236,www.heritageireland.ie. The names of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in WWl are recorded in eight volumes housed in the granite Bookrooms of these graceful 20acre gardens. Situated near Phoenix Park’s landmark obelisk, the Gardens were designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens (who also designed London’s Cenotaph) and laid out by an equal contingent of ex-British Army and Irish National Army servicemen. The Sunken Rose Garden, Irish granite War Stone, Cross of Sacrifice, and lily ponds and fountains fed from the nearby Liffey lend gravitas to the elegant surroundings. After decades of war, abandonment and erosion the Gardens were brought back to their former glory and - for the first time in their history - “officially” opened on 1 July 2006 - the 90th anniversary of the Battle of the Somme. The dedication was presided over by Irish President Mary McAleese and attended by dignitaries from both sides of the border, and representing both communities. Guided Tours and viewings of the Bookrooms can be arranged in advance. Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00, Sat & Sun 10:00. Closed according to daylight hours. Free.

A-1, Phoenix Park, Dublin 8, tel. 474 8900, www.dublin-zoo.ie. Escape the urban jungle and immerse yourself in the historic and beautiful Dublin Zoo. Only 3km from the City Centre in the vast Phoenix Park, the zoo’s 30 acres take you on a voyage of discovery from the fringes of the Arctic to the Plains of Africa via Indian Rainforest. Today’s zoo has transformed from a menagerie that mirrored its Victorian heritage of animals displayed as curiosities, to a place where the joy of learning about wildlife and conservation is at the heart of everything. Dublin Zoo is recognised as one of the most modern in Europe - and is increasingly an integral part of European Zoo breeding programmes. Crucially, though, it’s a great day out for all the family. Lions and tigers, gorillas, chim-panzees and orangutans, rare monkeys, rhinos, hippos, giraffes and many more exotic and endangered species can all be seen. And there’s also beautiful baby Asian elephant, Asha - the first of her species born on Irish soil. As well as the multitude of animals, children will love the pets corner, city farm and the safari train ride around the African Plains. Gift shops, a cafe and several picnic areas ensure sustenance, souvenirs and snack stops are available at every turn. Q Feb: 09:30-17:00. March: 09:30-18:00. Last admittance strictly 1hr before closing. Adult €15, Senior Citizen €12, Student €12.50, U-16 €10.50, U-3 Free. Family rates available.

Dublin Zoo

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Trinity College Dublin C-2, College Green, Dublin 2, tel. 896 1000, www.tcd.ie. Founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth, Trinity College is the oldest university in Ireland and undoubtedly its most renowned. Former alumni include writers Oliver Goldsmith, Bram Stoker, Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett, as well as past and current Presidents of Ireland Mary Robinson and Mary McAleese. Spreading across 47acres, Trinity’s central location near Grafton Street and opposite the Bank of Ireland makes it one of the city’s most visited landmarks. Its cobbled quads attract over 500,000 visitors a year, and it once masqueraded as an English university for the filming of Oscar-wining movie Educating Rita - itself inspired by Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw’s classic Pygma-lion. The College’s main architectural features are the 19th Century Campanile leading into Parliament Square, the multi-denominational Chapel with its 19th Century painted window and the Old Library’s awe-inspiring Long Room and iconic Book of Kells.

Book Of Kells Written around the year 800 AD by Columban monks, this highly decorative vellum copy of the four gospels in a Latin text is regarded as the finest surviving example of Irish Celtic art. Richly illustrated with many-hued letters and pictorials incorporating animals, humans and Biblical scenes, this exquisite manuscript reveals a seemingly inexhaustible wealth of supremely detailed ornamenta-tion upon each close inspection. The Book’s name comes from the Abbey of Kells in Kells, Co. Meath where it was reputed to have been (at least partly) written, though its exact origins remain unclear to this day. The Book remained there until the 1650s when it was moved to Dublin for safekeeping and presented to Trinity’s Library in 1661. Over the centuries it has endured damage, part-theft and various attempts at rebinding - good and bad. Originally a single volume, for conservation reasons it has been rebound into four volumes, two of which are normally on display showing examples of script and illustration. Visits are self guided, with displays telling the history of the Book of Kells and other historic manuscripts, and reservations are not taken. Q End Feb: Mon-Sat 09:30-17:00. Sun 12:00-16:30. €9, Seniors/Students €8, €18 (2 + 4), U-12 Free.

Long Room Stepping into this vast book-lined room is like walking onto the set of a movie, so grand is its scale and set-ting. Indeed, sci-fi buffs may well recognise the room’s resemblance to the Jedi Archives from Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones. Around 200,000 antiquarian tomes adorn its double-storey open shelves which stretch almost 65m in length. Built between 1712-63, and featur-ing a stunning 12.6m high timber barrel vaulted ceiling, the room also contains rows of marble busts - including one of writer and Dean Jonathan Swift - and Ireland’s oldest harp, the c.15th Century Brian Boru. Named after the high king of Ireland who died in 1014, the harp is a symbol of Ireland. Also on display is one of only a few remaining copies of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic. Changing exhibitions add to the Long Room’s creative charm and visitor appeal,. Until 15 June: The Body in the Library – the great detectives 1841 to 1941, an explora-tion of the detective novel genre. Q The Book of Kells admission also covers The Long Room. J

Saints and ScholarsIrish National Stud and Japanese Gardens Tully, Co. Kildare, tel. 04 552 1617, www.irish-national-stud.ie. This bastion of equine excellence is much more than a pilgrimage for horse racing enthusiasts. Four attractions: the Irish National Stud, Japanese Gardens, Saint Fiachra’s Garden and the Horse Mu-seum combine to make this a great day-trip option for city breakers craving the country life. Read our individual listings to find out more. Q 12 Feb - 23 Dec 09:30-17:00. Adult €11, Conc. €8, U-16 €6, U-5 Free, 2+4 €27. Prices include all four attractions.

Irish National Stud Ireland’s long and prosperous association with horser-acing is celebrated and continued at this 946acre farm. It was bought in 1900 by Scotsman William Hall-Walker who transformed it into the country’s centre of equestrian excellence. Hall-Walker’s sometimes eccentric breeding techniques included dismissing foals whose ‘horse horoscopes’ he deemed negative. Since its inception in 1946, the Stud has promoted Ireland’s bloodstock industry and sired some of the world’s most illustrious racehorses, including Desert Orchid and the mighty Arkle. Today 288 boxes house some of the nation’s finest mares, foals and stallions. Daily guided tours explain the Stud’s work, and walks around the grounds might just put you within view of these fabulous thoroughbreds. To further enhance your experience, The Curragh, Naas and Punchestown racecourses are each within reach.

Japanese GardensDevised by Hall-Walker and created between 1906-1910 by Japanese father and son Eida and Minoru, the Gardens symbolise the ‘Life of Man’ and the meeting of Eastern and Western cultures. Acclaimed worldwide and regarded as the finest of their kind in Europe, the Gardens achieved further indirect fame in 1909 when Hall-Walker’s favourite horse - named Minoru after the Gardens’ creator - won the English Derby under the royal colours of King Edward Vll. Take time to relish the Gardens’ tranquil serenity and rich symbolism of human existence.

Horse MuseumThis former groom’s home and stallion boxes is now a sleek museum showcasing the Stud’s illustrious history and inhabitants. An ongoing exhibition traces the Stud’s - and Ireland’s - deep-rooted love of horse racing. A skeleton of racehorse legend Arkle and a 10min video showing “The Bir th of a Foal” and made at the Stud are among the museum’s must-sees.

St. Fiachra’s GardensOpened in 1999 to mark the approaching Millennium, these woodland and lakeside walks are dedicated to St. Fiachra - the Patron Saint of Gardeners. Water and rock dominate the design which reflects the mo-nastic spiri tuali ty of 6th and 7th Century Ireland. An underground garden, Waterford Crystal shaped rocks and fibre-optic li t ferns, orchids and other plants are among the horticultural highlights.

Stallions and Serenity

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North Dublin’s historic market space has become an emerging space for visitors and locals looking to experience a new side of the city. Beside the Old Jameson Whiskey Distillery and Chimney Viewing Tower (due to reopen in 2009 following a major renovation project), and surrounded by several excellent value hotels, including the Park Inn and Maldron, Smithfield’s renaissance from its 17th Century marketplace origins is nothing short of legendary. Designer gas lamps ring the revamped plaza, but the monthly Horse Market (first Sun every month) and Dublin City Fruit, Vegetable and Flower Market evoke its arcadian roots. Culture seekers should head to the Light House Cinema (see listing p.10) - one of the venues for Thur 12 - Sun 22 Feb’s Jameson Dublin International Film Festival (p.10). And we positively implores diners and imbibers to migrate to the square and seek out fine bistro dining at Christophe’s and Irish hospitality at The Cobblestones Bar. Get there with ease via the LUAS Red Line - and revel in Dublin’s latest must-see locale.

Smithfield

St. Kevin’s Bus Service Roundwood, Co Wicklow, tel. 281 8119, www.glendaloughbus.com. For over eight decades this 100% Irish, family-run busi-ness has been spiriting visitors the 30miles from Dublin to the Co. Wicklow village of Glendalough.Named after, and inspired by, Glendalough’s St. Kevin, the modern coach tour follows a picture postcard route to the 6th Century site where the Saint established a Chris-tian settlement. Stunning scenery unfolds as you head south along the coast to Bray, then inland and upward through the Great and Little Sugar Loaf mountains.Yet more mountains, lakes and heather-clad plains dip in and out of view as you wend your way to Roundwood - said to be Ireland’s highest village - and past Annamoe Valley and the village of Laragh where fantastic views of Glendalough and its 33m Round Tower are revealedOnce at Glendalough, take time to explore the seven churches of St. Kevin - where a Monastic settlement was founded - and the shores of the village’s two enchant-ing lakes. Q Year round daily: 11:30 & 18:00. Buses dept. Dublin Bus Terminus, Dawson Street (opp. Mansion House). From Dublin: Adults €20 return, €13 single. From Bray: Adults €15 return, €9 single.

Daytrips to Glendalough

Boat & Bus ToursCity Sightseeing Tours B-2, Desk 1, Dublin Tourism Centre, Suffolk St, Dublin 2, tel. 605 7705, www.irishcitytours.com. These distinctive red buses provide hop-on hop-off 90min tours with two routes covering Dub-lin’s main attractions. Local guides provide entertaining live commentary, and audio commentaries are also available in a range of languages. The 24hr ticket and 25 stops ensures you see most sights without having to stretch your legs. Q 09:30-16:30 every 6-12mins from Upr. O’Connell St. Adult €15.50/13/7. 20% discount online.

Dublin Sightseeing Tours B-2, 59 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 703 3028, www.dublinbus.ie/sight-seeing. The green tour buses run daily 90min tours every 10mins til 15:00 and every 15mins 15:00-17:00. The 24hr ticket allows you to hop on and off at 23 stops. Complimen-tary airport shuttle bus and live commentary from Fáilte Ireland-approved guides are all part of the experience. Look for the green & cream signs at the attractions. Q 09:30-18:30. €15/13/6. 20% discount online.

Liffey River Cruises B-2, The Boardwalk, Bachelors Walk, Dublin 1, tel. 473 4082, www.liffeyvoyage.ie. These 45min tours cruise daily along the River Liffey from March-Nov. The custom-built and wheelchair accessible “The Spirit of Docklands” boat departs from Bachelors Walk and takes a guided journey through the history of Dublin from the invasion of the Vikings over 1,000 years ago to the develop-ment of the thriving docklands area. Q March daily: 11:30, 12:30, 14:15, 15:15. Adults €14, Conc. €12, U16 8, U4 free. 10% discount online for adult fare.

Sea Safari C-2, Malahide Marina, Malahide, Co. Dublin, tel. 806 1626, www.seasafari.ie. Feel the adrenaline rush as you power through the open seas in a high speed tour aboard the specially designed RIBs (Rigid Inflatable Boats). Weather gear keeps you (quite) dry as the wind whips your hair and you bounce through the waves. Two tours operate, one from Malahide Marina and one from the IFSC. The Malahide tour takes in Lambay Island and Ireland’s Eye where you can watch the bird life from a cave. Then it’s onto Howth Head and the harbour to, hopefully, spy some seals before return-ing to Malahide past the Bailey Lighthouse. The IFSC tour

goes into Dublin Bay, past Dun Laoghaire and on to Dalkey Island and Killiney Bay. Again, you should be able to see some seals and porpoises before returning to Custom House Quay. Both tours last 1hr 15mins and are brilliant fun and unlike any other you’ll find in the city and beyond. Q Daily 10:00-18:00. Call for prices.

Viking Splash Tours B-2, 64-65 Patrick St, Dublin 8, tel. 707 6000, www.vikingsplash.ie. Chitty Chitty Bang Bang has nothing on this beast which has been roaming Dublin’s streets and seas for almost a decade. Sporting a Viking Helmet and roaring at passers by like a pillager pos-sessed, passengers take in land-based sights such as St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Christ Church Cathedral, Trinity College, Leinster House and Merrion Square before dipping into the water at the renovated Docklands. Tours use reconditioned amphibious WWII vehicles called “Duks” which also took part in the D-Day Normandy landings. Tours last c.75 mins (55mins on land and 20mins in Grand Canal Harbour). Pick up points are Bull Alley, beside St. Patrick’s Cathedral and St. Stephen’s Green North at the top of Dawson Street. QFrom Fri 27 Feb: Adult €20, Conc. €18, U-13 €10, U-3 free (though must alight before sea tour).

Bicycle HirePhoenix Park Bike Hire A-2, Gate Lodge, Chesterfield Ave, Phoenix Park, Dublin 8, tel. 086 265 6258, www.phoenixparkbikehire.com. Get peddling round Dublin, no matter your age or experience, on your choice from over 150 bikes. Baby carriers, tag-alongs, mountain bikes, hybrids, rac-ers, tandems... you name it, they’ll probably have it. Helmets, locks, panniers, lights, gloves and even trouser clips are all also available free of charge. Owner Paul McQuaid knows his bikes; his father won the Grand Prix of Ireland from 1948-55 and five of his brothers represented Ireland in the Olympics. Find this highly recommended bike rental facility right inside the main entrance to the Park at Park Gate St, 2mins walk from Heuston Station. Their base is also easily found on the City Tour bus route at Stop 16. QSingle/Tandem: €5/10 1hr, €10/20 3hrs, €20/40 full day. Carry Along/Half Wheeler-€2.50ph.

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DUBLINTHE OLD JAMESON DISTILLERYVISIT

Open 7 days all year

Guided Tours, Tutored Whiskey Tastings, JJ’s Bar, 3rd Still Restaurant & Jameson Gift Shop.

Book online to receive a 10% discount on adult admissionThe Old Jameson Distillery, Bow Street, Smithfield, Dublin 7.

e: [email protected], t: 00353 0(1) 807 2355, f: 00353 0(1) 807 2369.

‘Sine Metu’ www.jamesonwhiskey.com

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B-2, Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin 7, tel. 807 2355, book online at www.jamesonwhiskey.com.

Walk across the see-through floor - beneath which lie original stone foundations - and enter the evocative world of John Jameson, a Scottish migrant who began making whiskey here in 1780. When a blight destroyed French vineyards in 1858, drinkers turned to whiskey and Jameson reaped the financial rewards.

Towards the end of the 19th Century, the distillery was producing 10% of Ireland’s incredible 90% domination of the international whiskey market. The onset of US Prohibi tion and Irish Independence, however, ended Jameson’s stronghold in the American and British Em-pire markets.

In 1966 Ireland’s four remaining distilleries, including Jameson’s, united to form Irish Distillers (itself bought over by Pernod Ricard in 1988). Less than a decade later, Jameson opened a modern distillery in Midleton, Co. Cork and retained Dublin’s site for vatting. Today Jameson remains a local legend and is the world’s bestselling Irish whiskey.

As with all Irish whiskeys, Jameson is triple distilled, giving it a distinctly smooth flavour. Blends of varying ages of maturation are produced by the company whose bottles bear the Jameson family motto “Sine Metu” or “Without Fear”. At this atmosphere-steeped visitor centre, tour guides take small groups of visitors through the interactive whiskey-making process.

Discover how the finely-honed skills of malting, ferment-ing, distilling and maturation transform water, barley and yeast into this famous drink - minus the Angel’s Share... Enormous copper stills, original shoes worn by the distillers, and Smithy, the distillery’s famous mouse-munching cat, are all part of this eclectic tour experi-ence. At the end, everyone receives a complimentary Jameson - straight or mixed to your preference - and volunteers get the chance to earn a coveted whiskey tasting certificate.

The Mezzanine level 3rd Still Restaurant - named after the whiskey’s famous triple maturation process - over-looks the bijou yet effortlessly glamorous entrance with its exposed brick, glistening chandelier and Jameson family portraits. Enjoy a sumptuous lunch, dessert or dinner- some brandishing that Jameson flavour - or try an authentic Irish coffee or sophisticated whiskey cocktail at JJ’s Bar.

And for a truly unique souvenir, treat yourself or a super special mate to a personalised bottle of Jameson Dis-tillery Reserve (12 Year Old) which can only be bought at the exclusive Jameson gift shop.

The distillery is right beside the Smithfield red Luas Line stop making it very easy to reach. QDaily 09:30 - 18:00. Last tour 17:30. Adult €13.50, Conc. €10, Children €8, Family (2+3) €30.

Old Jameson Distillery

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My Goodness, it’s Guinnessare also available outside. Q Daily 09:30 - 17:00. Adult €15, 18+ with Student ID/Senior Citizen €11, U-18 with student ID €9, 6-12 €5, 2+4 €34. 10% adult discount online.

With a quarter of a century of brewing history embedded in this iconic building, where better to say ‘thanks Arthur’ to Mr. Guinness and Dublin than right here where it all began?

Guinness Storehouse A-2, St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8, tel. 408 4800, www.guinness-storehouse.com.

A gargantuan ‘glass’ of Guinness greets guests as they enter this cathedral to the world’s most famous brew. Rising through the Storehouse Atrium’s seven storeys, from the ground floor to the GRAVITY Bar, this hollow steel-beamed structure would - if it were made of glass - hold 14.3m pints of the black stuff. Now that’s some night out.

The Guinness Storehouse dates back to 1904 when it was instrumental in the fermenting process. It was later converted into this magnificent visitor experience and opened to the public in 2000. Located at the heart of the sprawling Guin-ness complex, the building brims with the enticing aroma of the brewing stout.

The fully-rounded visitor experience begins with an introduc-tion to the four magic ingredients; water, barley, hops and yeast. Next a virtual master brewer explains the alchemy that transforms them into the creamy pint. With good timing, you could be one of 100 visitors chosen each week to Start the Brew with the touch of a computer button. Here, too, you can Taste the Brew under the professional guidance of the Tasting Team. Histories of the transportation process and the art of coopering (barrel-making) are also revealed. And a large projector illustrates the international reach of this iconic drink.

Just as famous as the drink itself has been Guinness’s ground-breaking advertising campaigns. The second floor is dedicated to this creative genius, with posters, TV ads and branded memorabilia bringing decades of award-winning campaigns together in one unique art collection.

The third floor’s interactive Choice Zone concentrates on the effects of drink and reminds us all to enjoy without excess. On the next level is a history of the building as told through copies of photos and documents from the extensive Guinness Archive.

Hone your pint pouring skills - no easy feat for any Guinness virgin - at the fifth floor’s Source Bar where you can also sample various Guinness incarnations - from the original Extra Stout to the brewhouse series. And for the more ravenous among you, the Brewery Bar serves a great range of global cuisine and traditional Irish dishes, many of which are infused with the unmistakable Guinness taste.

The pièce de résistance of any Storehouse visit has to be a trip to the seventh floor GRAVITY Bar, where a complimentary pint of creamy Guinness can be savoured against a stunning 360° backdrop of its home city.

Back at the ground floor, the flagship Guinness Store sells a vast array of branded merchandise and memorabilia, and is always bustling with enthusiastic visitors keen to bag a few eye-catching collectibles.

The Guinness Storehouse is a 15min walk from the city centre. From Dame St. (outside Trinity College), follow the road, passing Christ Church on the right, leading to Thomas St. At Crane St. turn left, and at the end of the road turn right onto Market St. Alternatively catch a bus or the Luas red line to St. James stop. Drivers can use the free car park, but make sure you arrive in good time as spaces fill up very quickly. Some metered spaces

Celebrate 250 Years of Brewing History

They say timing is everything when it comes to pouring the perfect pint of Guinness. And, this year, visitors to the Guinness Storehouse couldn’t have timed their trip any better, as 2009 marks the 250th anniversary of Arthur Guinness signing the lease to the world-famous St. James’s Gate brewery.

A whole floor of Ireland’s most popular tourist attraction has been dedicated to the 250 Exhibition and specialised History of Stout Tour - the centrepiece to a year-long global celebration in honour of Sir Arthur.

Visitors can see and take home a copy of the original lease and view a speciall y commissioned shor t-film showing the illustrious story of the Guinness brand. Patrons can also socialise in a new theatrical bar, join the worldwide celebrations and have their photograph taken raising a toast to Arthur Guinness.

Designed for groups of 10 or more, the VIP History of Stout tour takes a unique, history focused journey through the Guinness Storehouse. Partake in a private tasting session to sample the characteristic flavours of Guinness variants and master the art of the perfectly poured pint of Guinness. To book this celebratory experience, tel. 408 4800 or email [email protected].

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Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2009dublin.inyourpocket.comDublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2009dublin.inyourpocket.com

54 teMPle BArThis hugely popular cultural, entertainment and imbibement hub attracts large swathes of city newcomers. Lying south of the Liffey, between Westmoreland and Fishamble Streets, its narrow cobbled thoroughfares reveal boutique hotels, speciality shops, boho cafes and plenty of those all-important pubs. Meeting House and Temple Bar Squares provide further congregational opportunities for lost or weary souls. And the area’s share of restaurants, galleries, theatres, shops - and even an arthouse cinema- reinforce Dublin’s youthful vibe.

Thirsty travellers intending to whet their whistle will almost certainly find a bar or three to satisfy... we suggest the IFI bar, Clarence Hotel and the Porterhouse. And there’s a pretty impressive variety of fodder - from the burgers and fries of the iconic Hard Rock Cafe to the local legends that are Gallagher’s Boxty House and The Elephant and Castle. Shoppers should prise open their purses at the excellent food market that takes root every Saturday beside the National Photographic Archive, and the weekend book stalls crammed with tantalising tomes. Some nice second-hand CD shops and a fair few funky clothes emporiums add to the eclectic retail experience.For our money, Temple Bar is as much about the fun and laid-back daytime vibe as it is the well-established nightlife scene. Explore Temple Bar’s cultural side and discover more to this party hub than meets your average guidebook. Start off by navigating your way to the Temple Bar Cultural Information Centre for lots more info on the area’s events, attractions, pubs, clubs, shops, cultural centres and accommodation or go to www.visit-templebar.com and find out much more about the area.

Temple Bar Cultural Information Centre, 12 East Essex St, Temple Bar, tel. 677 2255, www.templebar.ie. Open Winter: Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:30, Sat: 10:00 - 17:30, Sun: 12:00 - 15:00.

Button Factory Curved St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 670 9202, www.buttonfactory.ie. Recently redone and all the better for it, The Button Factory boasts a nicer layout, décor and, most importantly, sound system. As well as an intimate music venue, it also holds great indie-style club nights. As you might imagine, it’s a pretty young crowd- mostly students.

Irish Film Institute (IFI) B-2, 6 Eustace St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 679 3477, www.irishfilm.ie. Just off Dame Street in the trendy Temple Bar area is the IFI. Here you will find not only a cinema but a bar, restaurant and bookshop all of which are usually busy and full of chatter. This old Quaker


Meeting House was transformed in the 1990s to become a cinema and a film archive centre for Ireland. Independent and foreign language films are usually exclusively screened here. The sleek venue also runs and co-hosts a number of film festi-vals throughout the year, most notably the Dublin International Film Festival. Special seasons showcase international cinema, making the IFI a great place to see diverse and intelligent films and mingle with fellow movie buffs. Q J

New Theatre 43 East Essex St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 670 3361. www.thenewtheatre.com This intimate theatre is found by entering Connolly Books in Temple Bar. Now open ten years, it has been revamped and re-opened as a state of the art modern venue in February 2007. Acclaimed Irish actor Ronan Wilmot is the theatre’s Joint Artistic Director. The New Theatre is perfect for smaller performances, and its location in the heart of Temple Bar and opposite the Clarence Hotel ensures a steady stream of clued-up culture lovers.

Project Arts Centre B-2, 39 East Essex St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 881 9613, www.project.ie. Dance, music, theatre and the arts call this contemporary creative space home. Stars such as Liam Neeson and Gabriel Byrne perfected their acting skills here. And the theatre has also showcased the writings of acclaimed Irish film directors Jim Sheridan and Neil Jordan. U2 has all played here, too, so it is quite apt that it’s across the road from the U2-owned Clarence Hotel. The new building was opened in June 2000 and consists of two theatres and curated Gallery space. Q J

Ark, A Cultural Centre for Children 11a Eustace St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel. 670 7788. www.ark.ie This innovative creative i Europe’s first custom-built arts centre for children by children. Opened in 1995, in the former Presbyterian Meeting House, this Temple Bar gem combines galleries, workshops, an outdoor amphitheatre and indoor theatre designed to entertain and enlighten up to 499 young people aged 3-14. Check out its imaginative programme and give the kids a holiday to remember too.

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Clamp your maw round freshly cooked dishes as you mingle with fellow foodies and contemplate the scintillating stalls at The Temple Bar Food Market (Sat 10:00 - 16:30). Surround yourself with the aromas of freshly brewed coffee, baked breads and healthy snacks and pick up some deliciously healthy produce to eat on the go or take back to base. Once you’ve stocked up on all things sweet and savoury, get with the beautiful people at the Designer Mart at Cow’s Lane in Old City Temple Bar (Sat 10:00 - 17:00)? Keep an eye out for fashion pieces from some of Ireland’s up-and-coming designers before they hit the big time. You go girl!Then complete your super market sweep at the reassuringly erudite Temple Bar Book Market (Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00). Where better to bag a book in this the land of saints and scholars?

This Little Piggy...

1 - Kinlay House, Lord Edward St. 2 - Gallaghers Boxty House, 20-21 Temple Bar. 3 - The Morgan, 10 Fleet St. 4 - Chameleon, Lower Fownes St. 5 - Hard Rock Cafe, 12 Fleet St.

Map courtesy TASCQ, www.visit-templebar.com

Temple Bar Map legend

Waltons Music B-2, 69 Sth Great Georges St, Dub-lin 2, tel. 475 0661, www.waltons.ie. Step off a busy street and into this magical world of music and musical instruments. Everything from triangles to fiddles and electric guitars to traditional Irish bodhráns (pronounced bough-rawn) adorn the walls and floor space. And there is usually someone playing a piano and embracing you with their enchanting sounds.The Walton family has been part of the Irish music scene since 1922. And with such a history and wealth of knowledge, it’s no wonder the shop was a key loca-tion for the recent Oscar-winning Irish film Once. And the Oscar ceremony used the theme of the hanging guitars from the Waltons shop in their stage set for the award-winning song.For those of you looking to learn Irish Music and don’t have time to check out their intensive lessons at the Waltons New School of Music (situated above the shop), Waltons publish and sell books, sheet music, CDs and DVD tutors for every traditional instrument, and you’ll find a range of possible gifts for the traditional music lover at home.Music aficionados should also check out the listing for their second shop on Frederick St. in the Northside and their New School of Music intensive and summer courses. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. J

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The name Dublin comes from the Gaelic dubh linn or “black pool” - where the Poddle stream met the River Liffey to form a deep pool at Dublin Castle. The city’s modern name - Baile Áth Cliath – means the “town of the ford of the hurdles”. Ireland’s four principal routeways converged at a crossing place made of hurdles of interwoven saplings straddling the low-tide Liffey.

837 AD – 917 AD: In 837, sixty Viking longships attacked churches round the Poddle and Liffey estuary, and the invaders made a permanent settlement in 841.

917 – 1014: Dublin was the Viking world’s largest city and traded from Iceland to Constantinople. The first genuine ruler of all Ireland - High King, Brian Boru - was rebelled against by Dublin Vikings and the Leinster Irish. With the aid of Vikings, Brian crushed his foes, then was himself slain, in an epic battle at Clontarf in 1014.

1014 – 1170: The Vikings adopted Christianity and founded Christ Church Cathedral. In 1169, the deposed Irish King MacMurrough sought help from south-west Wales Normans who, under their leader Richard FitzGilbert de Clare (Strongbow), seized Dublin.

1171 – 1399: In 1171 Henry II landed with a great army, and made Dublin the capital of the Normans’ Irish territory and the heart of the Norman and English colony. Christ Church was rebuilt in the Gothic style and work began on St Patrick’s Cathedral. In 1317 Scottish King Robert the Bruce and brother Edward failed to take the city, but much destruction ensued. In 1348 the city was gripped by the Black Death.

1399 – 1603: English royal control of Ireland shrank during the 14th and 15th Centuries to coastal towns and an area round Dublin known as the Pale. From 1485-1603 the city played a crucial role when Tudor monarchs undertook a reconquest. In 1603 The Earl of Tyrone submitted and, for the first time, the Crown won control of the entire island.

1603 – 1660: English monarchs decided Ireland should become Protestant. Christ Church and St Patrick’s were taken over and restored. English Civil War broke out in 1642 and many citizens joined the Gaelic Irish rebellion which had begun the year before. Eventually the forces of Parliament prevailed, and defeated royalists and the Irish besieged Dublin at Rathmines in 1649. Oliver Cromwell landed thirteen days later to begin the relentless subjugation of the country

1660 – 1691: A remarkable period of recovery began and, between 1610-1683, the population rose from 26,000 to 58,000. Instability returned when James II, chased from England, arrived in Ireland via France in 1689. He was given an enthusiastic reception in Dublin but, after defeat by William of Orange at the Boyne in 1690, returned to France.

1691 – 1798: A long peace followed William III’s victory, and Dublin became the British Empire’s second largest city. By the middle of the 18th Century, the population was close to 130,000. A magnificent new parliament house (now the Bank of Ireland) was built in 1728 and a splendid gateway and façade for Trinity College completed in 1759 – making College Green the social hub of Dublin.

1798 – 1900: Rebellion by the United Irishmen in 1798. The authorities kept the insurrection out of Dublin but the revolt convinced Westminster to close the Dublin Parliament, and the 1801 Act of Union saw Ireland ruled from London. The aristocracy slowly deserted and, while it continued to grow, the city endured severe economic difficulties. Destitute victims of the Great Famine poured into Dublin from 1845-1850.

1900 – 1923: At the outbreak of WWI, the Irish Republican Brotherhood and the Irish Citizen Army prepared rebellion. The insurrection began on Easter Monday 1916 and was eventually put down, leaving much of the city centre around the General Post Office reduced to rubble. During the War of Independence, beginning in 1919, much guerrilla fighting took place in the streets, and in May 1921 the Irish Republican Army burned the Custom House. The 1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty made Dublin the capital of the Irish Free State. Disagreement over the terms of the Treaty resulted in civil war which began when Free State troops bombarded the Four Courts and buildings in O’Connell Street. The anti-Treaty IRA called a truce in the spring of 1923.

1923 – 1965: Dub l i n remained an e l egant bu t somewhat impoverished city - the capital of a state which, in stages, severed its last links with the British Empire in the 1930s and 1940s and became a republic in 1949. Ireland’s first Taoiseach (or Prime Minister) Eamon de Valera kept the state - renamed Éire in 1937 - out of WW2.

1965 – 1991: A long era of peace, with trade agreements with Britain in 1965 and the joining of the Common Market in 1973 heralding spectacular – if uneven – city growth. In 1963, four months before his assassination, President Kennedy visited Ireland. In 1979 Pope John Paul ll - the first reigning Pope to visit Ireland - celebrated mass in front of one million people at Phoenix Park. In 1985 the Irish and British governments signed the Anglo-Irish Agreement giving the Republic of Ireland a consultative role in the NI government. In 1988 Dublin celebrated its Millennium and became European Capital of Culture in 1991.

1990s-present: From the 1990s, the Celtic Tiger economy boomed and many ex-pats – or Irish Diaspora – returned home. House prices vied with those in London, and international music success, from Ireland’s 7th Eurovision Song Contest win (and the birth of Riverdance) to the global domination of rock band U2, further cemented Ireland’s new culture of cool. In 1990 Mary Robinson became the first female President of Ireland and was succeeded in 1997 by current President, Belfast-born Mary McAleese. The feel-good factor spread into sport; back in 1987, cyclist Stephen Roche had won the Tour De France, Ireland beat Italy in the 1994 US World Cup Finals and runner Sonia O’Sullivan won World Championship gold in 1995 and Olympic silver in 2000. In 2002 the Euro replaced the Punt as Ireland’s currency.

Compiled by Jonathan Bardon.

1923: WB Yeats1925: George Bernard Shaw1969: Samuel Beckett1995: Seamus Heaney

Ireland’s Nobel Prize for Literature winners



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Want to learn a musical instrument, pick up a bespoke piece of pottery or leaf through some of Ireland’s finest tomes? Check out these listings and savour some of the best quintessentially Irish souvenirs and experiences Dublin has to offer.

Traditional MusicCladdagh Records B-2, 2 Cecilia St, Temple Bar, D. 2, tel. 677 0262, www.claddaghrecords.com. Founded in 1959 as a record label, Claddagh Records has become synonymous with traditional Irish music and is Dublin’s longest running specialist music shop. Its first album was a recording of Leo Rowsome’s Rí na bPíobairí (King of Pipers) and the second was the very first recording by The Chieftains who went on to huge international success and continue to record with Claddagh. This label was set up to represent literary figures in Ireland and so many Irish and Scottish poets have recorded and released albums with Claddagh. Today, with online access to such an extensive range of Irish and international folk and roots music, that hard to find album of your dreams could be a mere click away. Alternatively, when in town, find that album you’ve always wanted in their Cecilia St. shop. The staff not only know about famous art-ists but are also up-to-date on current and new traditional artists. Claddagh Record is renowned as being the genuine article when it comes to traditional Irish music. If around in the evening, pop by as it might be open til 20:00. QOpen 10:00-20:00, Mon, Tue 10:00-17:30, Fri 11:30-17:30, Sat 11:00-18:00, Sun 12:30-17:30. J

Arts & CraftsKilkenny C-2, 5-6 Nassau St, Dublin 2, tel. 677 7066, www.kilkennyshop.com. When you’re in a shopping state of mind, there’s one unmissible Irish store that’s designed to appeal to the most demanding tourist. Family-owned for over four decades, Kilkenny has a history of nurturing indigenous talent, and has become a benchmark for the best in contemporary Irish craft and design. Customers can choose from the stunning collections of a range of designers including Orla Kiely, Kathy Van Zealand, R12K and Nica, or crystal and giftware from John Rocha, Louise Kennedy, Newbridge, Genesis, Padraic O’Murchu and many more. The unique collections of top Irish craftspeople in-clude Stephen Pearce, Nicholas Mosse and Louis Mulcahy. A first floor Restaurant & Café with views across Trinity College maintain the high quality with their meticulously sourced Irish produce. So, if you’re after a stylish sou-venir with an unmistakable Irish lineage, Kilkenny is one not-to-be-missed shopping experience. Q Mon-Wed 08.30-19.00, Thurs 08:30-20:00, Sat 08:30-18:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. JK

Rockbrook, Edmondstown Rd, Rathfarnham, Dublin 16, tel. 493 1495. www.mpbpub.com. Head a few miles south of the city towards the Dublin Mountains to the Merry Ploughboy Pub for a well-tuned night of traditional Irish music, singing and dancing that’s regarded as one of the best in Dublin. The Merry Ploughboys traditional group hosts the night’s entertainment in their own eponymous music pub. The 2hr event features fast paced song, music and Irish dancing and, due to its popularity, reservations are essential. The show costs €22.50, or €52.50 including your meal, and you certainly get what you pay for – a high standard of entertainment, food and service all in the one venueThe pub itself is an atmospheric traditional bar, dating back to the 1780s and sitting at the foothills of the Dublin Mountains. Uniquely, it is owned and run by traditional musicians and, as such, gets crowded at weekends when locals pack the place out for the food and the music sessions. The best time to go is mid-week when it’s a bit quieter. The Merry Ploughboys band is regarded as one of the finest traditional and folk groups in Ireland. And these especially renowned lively and entertaining performances have been going since 1989, making this the city’s longest running show of its kind - and by the same performers. Like all the best traditional music pubs in Dublin, this one is always a hit with visitors but The Merry Ploughboy rises well above the usual tourist trail. Find The Merry Ploughboy Pub off the M50 ringroad (exit 12 at the Firhouse/Ballyboden turn). The average taxi journey takes 25mins and costs from around €15 (higher depending on passenger numbers, call-out charges etc). Ask the Pub to order your return taxi home. Shows Sun-Thu 20:30-22:30, Fri & Sat 21:00-23:00. Dinner (optional) served 19:30.

Merry Ploughboy Irish Music & Dancing Show

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Waltons New School of Music B-2, 69 Sth Great George’s St, Dublin 2, tel. 478 1884, www.newschool.ie. Irish music has long been central to the history and culture of this island. Nothing can be more evocative than an impromptu music session in a traditional Dublin pub. Or a Grafton Street busker tout-ing his tunes to the passing shop-pers. If these ever-present sounds inspire you to take up the art, Waltons New School of Music is the place to fine-tune your music skills. This long-established venue welcomes anyone aged 4+ who wants to learn to play an instrument, sing, or just appreciate the history and theory of music. Their belief is that no one is too old to learn or enjoy music. Waltons are renowned for their bodhráns (pronounced bough-rawn) and tin whistles, and the New School is unique in that it offers Intensive Lessons on an individual or small group basis for both of these instru-ments. During their two-part Summer Term (July and/or August) group courses and individual tuition are avail-able for a wide range of instruments (as well as singing). To find out more about this fantastic school, and take home a truly unique souvenir of your Ireland stay, give Walton’s a call. QOpen Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00.

Waltons World of Music B-2, 2 Nth Frederick St, Dublin 1, tel. 874 7805, www.waltons.ie. Waltons was founded here in 1922 by Martin Walton and is now run by the third generation of the family. In an area rich in cultural and artistic talent and heritage, you can also find the Dublin Writers Museum, Hugh Lane Gallery, Gate Theatre, Ambassador Theatre and Findlaters Church all on the doorstep of this beautifully restored Georgian building. The ethos behind Waltons is music is for all, and the involvement they have in the community is reflected in their support of events such as June’s Waltons Guitar Festival of Ireland. Waltons is a very welcoming shop and if you’re looking to buy a special gift check out the beauti-fully decorated bodhráns and, downstairs, a particularly fine display of pianos and harps. Absorb the atmosphere and history of this evocative building that’s well worth a visit. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-18:00.

Waltons Music

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Irish LiteratureCathach Books C-2, 10 Duke St, off Grafton St, tel. 671 8676, www.rarebooks.ie. In the land of saints, scholars and scribes, this antiquarian bookshop stands head and shoul-ders above the rest. Shelves positively heave with the works of 20th Century literary greats such as Wilde, Beckett, Joyce, and Yeats... and the shop even stocks first editions of the latter two. Specialist tomes on 17th Century Irish History and topography highlight the shop’s extensive collection. Check out the online searchable database to source your books of choice. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, ask any of the Cunningham family who run the shop and will be more than happy to assist. If you want to bring home a history-steeped souvenir with reams of gravitas, there really is no better place to visit. QOpen Mon-Sat 9:30-17:45. J

Irish SouvenirsCarrolls Irish Gift Shop B-2, 57 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 1890 209 309, www.carrollsirishgifts.com. Opened since 1982, Carrolls is an integral part of your Irish retail experience. Whether you’re looking for an Irish flag t-shirt, Kiss me I’m Irish baseball cap or Irish sports top, this is the store for you. The locals shop here, too, for patriotic gear coming up to St. Patrick’s Day or major sporting events. A great range of Irish-themed CDs and DVDs make handy souvenirs for the folks back home. And The Guinness Store on Westmoreland Street ensures you leave brandishing the requisite array of branded brew goodies. QOpen 09:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. Also at 33 Lwr. O’Connell St, 44 Henry St, 98-99 Talbot St, 23 Suf-folk St, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre.

Food & DrinkCeltic Whiskey Shop C-2, 27-28 Dawson St, Dublin 2, tel. 675 9744, www.celticwhiskeyshop.com. At the top of Dawson St, almost opposite The Mansion House, this quaint shop stocks the city’s most varied collection of whiskeys, bourbons and wines. Window displays of aged barrels and rare bottles of spirits lure passers-by and, once inside, the advice and knowledge of the staff is unsurpassed. Purchases, including hampers and gift boxes, can be gift-wrapped and shipped directly to your house. They also hold Tastings and Masterclasses with visiting experts from featured distilleries explaining the distilling process and how different barrels can change the taste and body of the whiskeys. Connoisseurs can join their Whiskey Club on-line and receive advance information about these evenings. Q Mon-Sat 10:30-20:00, Sun 12:30-18:00.

Traditional Irish PubsAnd finally. for many visitors a trip to Dublin is synonymous with a pint or three in some of the city’s most authentic hostelries. Trawl through our Traditional Pubs section (p.39) and discover some real gems - several of which are most definitely off the tourist trail and real Dubliners’ haunts. And don’t forget the Guinness Storehouse and Old Jameson Distillery (as if you would) for a drop of the ‘black stuff’ and ‘water of life’.

If our History section has you hankering for more, a new book by i ts writer, Jonathan Bar-don, encapsulates thousands of years of Irish history in an eminently readable and highly enjoyable format. Stretching from the Ice Age to NI’s peace settlement, A History of Ireland in 250 Epi-sodes began life as a BBC Radio Ulster series and, like the series, each episode can be read at random to reveal this island’s fascinating history. Alternatively, read the episodes in sequence for a complete narrative of the history of Ireland. Invasions, battles, the Reformation, the Georgian era, the Famine, rebellions and resistance, partition, the 20th Century... nothing that evades Bardon’s meticu-lous eye. This Dublin born and educated Belfast native is the author of numerous Irish history books, including A His-tory of Ulster and Dublin: A Thousand Years of Wood Quay. Bardon has also scripted numerous radio & TV programmes for BBC NI, BBC Radio Ulster and RTÉ, and contributes regularly on historical subjects to the Irish Times and broadcast media in Dublin and Belfast. Discover stories rich in history - both on a grand and personal scale - through Bardon’s distinct and unrivalled writing. Available in all good book shops and published by Gill & Macmillan (€29.99/£22.99).

A History of Ireland in 250 Episodes


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Whether you prefer to browse small boutiques looking for one off pieces or spend the day in a top designer department store, Dublin has it all. Aside from the main shopping centres there are also pedestrian shopping streets and wonderful boutiques hidden all over the city. Here are a few of the main centres and shopping areas. Check opening hours over St. Patrick’s Day

Department StoresArnotts Department Store B-2, 12 Henry St, Dublin 1, tel. 805 0400, www.buy4now.ie/arnott. Ireland’s oldest depar tment store dates back to 1843 and is ranked by size alongside Harrods and Selfridges in the top five stores in Ireland and Britain. This retail giant has everything from fashion to furniture, linen to lingerie and even an in-house interior design consultant. Get yourself an Irish county GAA jersey or fine local crystal as a truly unique souvenir. Five cafes and sandwich bars should stave off hunger pangs and ensure you don’t leave empty-handed. Turn left at the GPO onto Princess St. for paid parking with lifts to the store. QOpen 09:00-19:00, Tue 09:30-19:00, Thu 09:00-21:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. JLK

Brown Thomas C-2, 88-95 Grafton St, Dublin 2, tel. 605 6666, www.brownthomas.com. Rub designer shoulders with Dublin’s beautiful people at this glistening fashion and beauty flagship store. Opened by haberdashers and general drapers Hugh Brown and James Thomas on Grafton Street in 1849, Brown Thomas is undoubtedly Dublin’s - and Ireland’s -most famous store, with additional dazzling branches in Galway, Limerick and Cork. Enter the paradise and immerse yourself in sophisticated threads, sensual lingerie and a kaleidoscope of must-have cosmetics. There’s even a BTkids section for the junior fashionista in your life... hide that piggy bank. And trendset-ting teens can slink across the road to the younger BT2, leaving their parents to shop... or wail into their wallets. QOpen 09:00-20:00, Thu,,Fri 09:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-19:00. J

Clery & Co. (1941) plc B-2, 18-27 Lower O’Connell St, Dublin 1, tel. 878 6000, www.clerys.ie. One of the world’s first purpose-built department stores, this retail mecca has occupied the same space since 1853. Being on Dublin’s main street, Clerys has witnessed and experi-enced its fair share of history - most significantly when it was destroyed during the 1916 Easter Rising - and is now a listed building, both for this and architecture reasons. In 2004, a €22m revamp saw the department store emerge butterfly-like as a bright, shiny shopping marvel. I t still retains its historical grandeur and offers a great selection of fashions, furnishings and fabulous gifts. And, if you’re relo-cating to the city, check out its ingenious Apartment Fit-Out Package designed to take the strain out of your moving experience. QOpen 09:00-19:00, Thu 09:00-21:00, Fri 09:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-18:30, Sun 12:00-18:00.

Shopping Centres & MallsDundrum Town Centre Sandyford Rd, Dundrum, Dublin 16, tel. 299 1700, www.dundrumtowncentre.ie. Named the Most Family Friendly Centre of the Year 2007, this sprawling retail and entertainment complex boasts a mul-tiplex cinema, restaurants, bars, nightclub, medical centre, hairdressers, theatre and over 160 shops in its purpose-built Town Square, Gallery and Five Levels of fashion, food and fun. And, although you wouldn’t know it, certain parts of the centre are still being built which, once completed, will make Dundrum Europe’s largest shopping centre. The fabulous Harvey Nichols Boutique - with its Ground Floor cafe and signature Top Floor restaurant and bar - and

House of Fraser - including Cafe Mimo - are Dundrum’s main department stores. Elsewhere, Urban Outfitters, H&M, Hugo Boss, Karen Millen, LK Bennett, French Connection, M&S, Mango, Monsoon, Tommy Hilfiger and many more fashion faves enhance the stylish ensemble. An abundance of food and drink ranges from the Bagel Factory to Yo! Sushi and virtually every flavour in between. Family friendly and fast food outlets include TGI Friday’s, KFC, McDonalds, Eddie Rockets, Pizza Hut and Frangos World Cuisine. And coffee lovers can indulge at several cafes including BB’s, Brambles, Butlers, Dante Italian Bistro, Gallery.Net Café, Starbucks and Harvey Nichols Espresso Bar. Roly Saul The Restaurant, meanwhile, ensures epicureans experience the finest steaks and seafood at its beautiful new Mill House location. Park-ing isn’t free but you can get 3hrs for €2 - the same price as 1hr. QOpen Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-19:00. Sun 10:00-19:00, FLK

Georges Street Arcade B-2, Sth. Gt. Georges St, Dublin 2 www.georgesstreetarcade.ie Dublin’s first purpose-built Victorian Shopping Centre dates back to 1881. Following a devastating city fire in1892 which destroyed most of the building, the arcade was restored by local tradesmen and craftspeople and, to this day, retains many of its original features. Take time to walk through and soak up the ambi-ence enjoyed by previous generations of city shoppers. The variety of shops, restaurants and stalls - from fortune teller to fashion, fine art to flowers and souvenirs to accessories - is so eye-catching you can spend an enjoyable afternoon browsing and buying treats for yourself... and the folks back home. And, afterwards, there are plenty of great value foodie options - from freshly roasted coffees to gourmet global cuisine - to satisfy those post-shopping pangs. An authentic and unique retail find right in the heart of Dublin. Open: 09:00-18:30 Sun 12:00-18:00 Thur 09:00-20:00

Jervis Shopping Centre B-2, 125 Upper Abbey St, Dublin 1, tel. 878 1323, www.jervis.ie. This is the largest shopping centre in the city centre and is very centrally located just off O’Connell Street. The Red line Luas stops outside and escalators whisk you off to its three floors - the first two are shops, and the third restaurants. Open since 1996, all outlets overlook a Central Rotunda from which light floods across all the floors. Retail-wise Debenhams and M&S are the big boys, but there are lots more shopping options and many high street stalwarts. To get there find the Spire then turn down Henry Street and you can’t miss it. The large car park is accessed via Jervis St. QOpen 09:00-18:30, Thu 09:00-21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-18:30. JLK

Moore Street Mall B-2, Parnell St, Dublin 1, tel. 873 3416, www.moorestmall.com. Aiming to be Ireland’s first multicultural shopping centre, over 30 independent outlets and a cosmopolitan Food Court focus on food, crafts, acces-sories, household goods and fashion from Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, Eastern Europe and even Ireland. Beauty products and hair salons keep you looking good, and the International Food Market ( Wed, 11:00 - 19:00) continues the global gour-met theme. This centre has a lot to offer and demonstrates some of the newer influences and ethnicity in Ireland today. Find it beside Jury’s Inn Hotel. QOpen 10:00-20:00, Thu, Fri 10:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-19:00.

The Dublin telephone code is+353 (0)1

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Shopping in Northern IrelandIf you want your holiday money to go further, and have plenty of spare Euros or Dollars to spend, why not consider a trip north of the border where the weak Sterling offers substantial savings.Thousands of Irish residents and visitors already make regular retail pilgrimages to border towns and cities such as Newry, Derry and Enniskillen. And Belfast and its surrounding sub-urban shopping centres (The Outlet, Sprucefield, Holywood Exchange...) is also experiencing similar out-of-state sales, despite the current economic downturn.Savings of around a quarter of the Euro equivalent can be had on all sorts of goodies. So, after you’ve discovered the delights of Dublin’s distinctly cosmopolitan shopping scene, hit the North and fill your bags. After all, it makes sense to stretch your cents (I thank you).

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre B-2, 59 South William St, Dublin 2, tel. 671 7000, www.powerscourtcentre.com. Just off Grafton St. is a sophisticated shopping centre brimming with stylish boutiques and chi chi cafes. The Georgian mansion which houses this unique retail experience was built in 1774 with granite from Co. Wicklow’s Powerscourt Estate. The former residence of MEP Lord Powerscourt (Richard Wingfield), tours (Fri & Sat, 15:00) explain its history, 18th Century life for the privileged and how the centre works around the house, rather than the other way around. Tickets can be bought from the Information Desk. Opened as a Shopping Centre in 1981, Powerscourt elegantly fuses independent shops and galleries with upmarket high street names. The courtyard atmosphere has long been a favourite with the city’s elite, so why not join them for an afternoon of pure designer indulgence? QOpen 10:00-18:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. JW

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre B-2, St. Ste-phen’s Green West, Dublin 2, tel. 478 0888, www.stephensgreen.com. Right at the top of Grafton St , in the shadow of St. Stephen’s Green’s Arch, stands this striking iron and glass shopping mecca. Always abuzz with locals and visitors, this retail hub’s impressive interior boasts elegant balustrades, a giant centrepiece clock and gleaming glass roof and dome. Over 100 shops inhabit its three levels, from the large Dunnes at the back to many smaller independent units dotted throughout and offering a myriad of gift goodies. Interrupt your shopping and enjoy dessert, coffee and a spot of people watching at Foodlife on the first floor. The Luas Green Line terminates here, so whisking your booty back to base couldn’t be simpler. The Centre celebrates its 20th birthday in 2008. QOpen 09:00-19:00, Thu 09:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. JLK

Specialist ShopsJabula B-2, 4 Strand St Great, Dublin 1, tel. 873 4107, www.jabula.ie. Step inside this specialist South African shop and re-emerge a million miles from Ireland. Hand-stitched Zulu bags and cute children’s clothing make unique gifts. The smaller beaded jewellery is hand-crafted by a group of Zulu women and can be ordered to your specification. Whether you’re looking for distinctive one-off pieces of glassware from Cape Town or pine for some Simba Chips, then this colourful cornucopia is definitely worth a detour. With inspiration from the rich traditions of Zulu culture this gift shop brings the es-sence of South Africa to Dublin. Q Mon-Wed 10:00-18:00, Thurs-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-18:00 J

Liberty Blue, BelfastC - 1 , 1 9 - 2 1 L o m b a r d S t , Be l fast te l . 9043 7745, w w w . l i b e r t y b l u e . c o . u k . Refreshingly original and totally kitsch, this one-of-a-kind boutique is only a stone’s throw away from busy Royal Avenue. Beauti ful dresses, gorgeous accessories and fabulous shoes adorn every available space in this award-winning store. Independent labels at high street prices make Liberty Blue a real stand-out in Belfast’s burgeoning shopping scene.QOpen Mon-Fri 10:00-17:30, Thu 10:00-20:30, Sat 10:00-18:00.

19-21 Lombard Street, BelfastTel. +44 28 9043 7745 www.libertyblue.co.uk

St. Stephen’s Green Arch

shoPPing


61index


Acapulco 32

A.L.T. 37

Avoca Café 26

AYA 23

Bad Ass Café 24

Bailey 36

Balzac 28

Bankers 39

Bank of Ireland 43

Bank on College Green 28

Bar Italia 26

Beshoff Restaurant 30

Bia Bar 38

Blazing Salads Food Company

33

Book Of Kells 49

Brambles Deli Cafe Ltd. 26

Brasserie Sixty6 26

Bruxelles 38

Butlers Chocolate Café 28

Café En Seine 38

Caife Úna 33

Canal Bank Café 26

Castle Inn 39

Cavistons 32

Chameleon 23

Chili Club 23

Christ Church Cathedral 41

Cobblestone 39

Cookes 28

Copperface Jacks 37

Cornucopia Wholefood

Restaurant 33

Custom House 43

Czech Inn 39

Dakota 36

Davy Byrnes 39

Dawson Lounge 36

Dice Bar 38

Dragon 38

Dunne & Crescenzi 31

Elephant & Castle 24

Ella 29

Epicurean Food Hall 31

Fallon & Byrne 28

Fire 29

Fitzwilliam Card Club 38

Foodlife 26

Front Lounge 38

GAA Museum & Stadium Tours

45

Gaiety 37

Glasnevin Cemetery 42

Globe 36

Gruel 31

Guinness Storehouse 53

Hairy Lemon 36

Ha'penny Bridge 44

Harbour Master 36

Havana 33

Horse Museum 49

Hugh Lane Gallery 45

Il Primo Ristorante 31

International 36

Irish Film Institute 54

Irish National Stud 49

Iveagh Gardens 46

Japanese Gardens 49

Juice 33

Kilmainham Gaol 46

Leinster Rugby 11

Les Frères Jacques 30

L'Gueuleton 29

Lillies Bordello 37

Lord Edward Restaurant &

Tavern 32

Madina Desi Curry 24

Market Bar 36

Merry Ploughboy 39

Messrs Maguire 39

Morrison 36

Mulligans 39

Munchies 32

National Botanic Gardens 46

National Gallery of Ireland 44

Nude 31

Old Stand 40

O'Neill's 40

Pearl Brasserie 28

Phoenix Park 48, 49

Pig & Heifer 32

Porterhouse North 36

Pravda 39

Premier Inn 22

Queen of Tarts 28

Quiznos Sub 28

Rhodes D7 28

RiRá 37

Ron Blacks 36

Rush 37

Saba 23

Salamanca Tapas Bar and

Restaurant 33

Sea Safari 50

Siam Thai 24

Simon's Place 32

Sinners 23

Solas 37

Spire of Dublin 44

Stag's Head 40

St. Fiachra's Gardens 49

St. Mary's Pro-Cathedral 41

Sugar Club 37

Temple Bar 40

The Village 39

Thomas Read Smithfield 37

Travelodge 22

Trinity College Dublin 49

Unicorn 30

War Memorial Gardens 48

Whelans 38

Winding Stair 28

Yamamori Noodles 24

62 street register


Abbey St B-2Adelaide Rd B/C-3 Amiens St C-2Anglesea Rd D-3Appian Way C-3Arbour Hill A-2Ardee St B-3Arran Quay B-2Aston Quay B-2Aughrim St A-1Aungier St B-2/3 Bachelors Walk B-2Ballsbridge D-3Ballybough Rd C-1Bath Ave D-3Bath St D-3Beach Rd D-3Benburb St A-2Blackhall Place B-2Blackhorse Ave A-1Bolton St B-2Bow St B-2Bremen Grove D-3Bride St B-2/3 Bridge St B-2Bridgefoot St B-2Brunswick St B-2Burgh Quay C-2Burlington Rd C-3Busaras C-2Cabra Rd A-1Camden St B-3Canal Rd B-3Capel St B-2Carnlough Rd A-1City Quay C-2Clanbrassil St B-3Clogher Rd D-2Clonliffe Rd C-1Clontarf Rd D-1Clyde Rd C-3College St C-2Connaught St B-1Connolly Station C-2Constitution Hill B-2Conyngham Rd A-2Cork St A/B-3 Croke Park C-1Crumlin Rd D-2Cuffe St B-3Custom House Quay C-2Dalymount Park B-1Dame St B-2Dargle Rd C-1Dawson St C-2Dolphin Rd D-2Dominick St B-2Donore Ave A/B-3 Dorset St B-1Dowth Ave B-1Drumcondra C-1Drury St B-2Dufferin Ave B-3Duke St C-2Earlsfort Terrace C-3East Rd D-1/2 East Rd D-2East Wall Rd C/D-1 East Wall Rd D-2Eccles St B-1Eden Quay C-2Elgin Rd C-3

Ellis Quay B-2Embankment Rd D-1Fairview D-1Fairview Ave Lower D-1Fairview Pk D-1Fenian St C-2Fitzwilliam St C-3Francis St B-2Georges Quay C-2Grafton St B/C-2Grand Canal Quay C-2Grand Canal St C-2/3 Grand Parade C-3Grangegorman Upper B-1/2 Grove Rd B-3Haddington Rd C-3Halliday Rd A-2Hanover Quay C/D-2 Hanover St East C-2Harcourt St B-3Harolds Cross Rd B-3Harolds Cross Stadium B-3Hatch St Lower C-3Hatch St Upper B-3Henry St B-2Herbert Park C/D-3 Herbert Rd D-3Heuston Station A-2Heytesbury St B-3High St B-2Holybrook Rd D-1Howth Rd D-1Chancery St B-2Charlemont Place C-3Church Rd D-1Infirmary Rd A-2Inns Quay B-2Iona Rd B-1Irish Financial Services Centre C-2Irishtown Rd D-2/3 Kevin St B-3Kildare St C-2Kilmainham A-2Lansdowne Rd D-3Leeson Park C-3Leeson St Upper C-3Lindsay Rd B-1Lord Edward St B-2Lower Baggot St C-3Lower Drumcondra Rd C-1Lower Gardiner St C-2Lower Leeson St C-3Lower Mount St C-3Macken St C-2Main Rd A-2Malahide Rd D-1Mangan Rd B-3Manor St A/B-2 Marino Park Ave D-1Marlborough St C-2Marrowbone Lane A-2/3 Mary St B-2Marys Lane B-2Meath St B-2Merchants Quay B-2Merrion Rd D-3Merrion Row C-3Merrion Square C-2/3 Mespil Rd C-3Molesworth St C-2Moore St B-2

Morehampton Rd C-3Mountjoy Square C-1Mountjoy St B-1Mountpleasant Ave B-3Nassau St C-2New Bridge Ave D-3New St B-3North Circular Rd A/C-1North Frederick St B-1/2 North King St B-2North Strand Rd C-1North Wall Quay C/D-2 Northbrook Rd C-3Northumberland Rd C-3O’Connell St B-2Old Cabra Rd A-1Old Kilmainham A-2Ormond Quay Lower B-2Ormond Quay Upper B-2Oxmantown Rd A-2Parkgate St A-2Parnell Rd A/B-3 Parnell Square B-2Parnell St B-2Patrick St B-2Pearse St C-2Pearse Station C-2Pembroke Rd C/D-3 Pembroke St C-3Phibsborough Rd B-1Philipsburgh Ave C-1Phoenix Park A-2Pimlico B-2/3 Poplar Row C-1Portland Row C-1Prospect Rd B-1Prussia St A-1Quarry Rd A-1Queen St B-2Rainsford St A/B-2 Ranelagh Rd C-3Rathdown B-1Rathmines Rd B-3Richmond Rd C-1Richmond St B-3Ringsend Rd C/D-2 Rutland Ave D-2Sandymount Ave D-3Sandymount Rd D-3Sean MacDermott St C-1/2 Serpentine Ave D-3Seville Place C-2

Shelbourne Park D-2/3 Shelbourne Rd D-3Sherriff St C/D-2 Sir John Rogerson Quay C/D-2 Smithfield B-2South Anne St C-2South Circular Rd A/B-3 South Great Georges St B-2South King St B-2South Lotts Rd D-2/3 South William St B-2St. Alphonsus Rd B-1St. James’s St A-2St. John’s Rd A-2St. Laurence Rd D-1St. Marys Rd South C-3St. Stephen’s Green B/C-3 Stephen St B-2Stephens Lane A-2Suffolk St B/C-2Suir Rd D-2Summerhill C-1Sundrive Rd D-2Sussex Rd C-3Synge St B-3Talbot St C-2Temple St B-1The Coombe B-3Thomas St A/B-2 Tolka Quay D-2Toll Bridge D-2Townsend St C-2Trinity College C-2Tritonville Rd D-3Upper Baggot St C-3Upper Gardiner St B/C-1Upper Merrion St C-2/3 Upper Mount St C-3Ushers Quay B-2Victoria Quay A-2Walting St A-2Wellington Quay B-2Wellington Rd C-3Werburgh St B-2Westland Row C-2Whitworth Rd B-1Wicklow St B-2Wilton Terrace C-3Windsor Rd C-1Wolfe Tone Quay A-2York Rd D-2York St B-3

Dublin Tourism, Suffolk St DT

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N7

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1

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M5

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M5

0

M5

0

D13

D5

D11

D15

D7

D2

D1

D17

D9

D3

D20

D22

D24

D14

D16

D18

D6

D4

D8

D12

D10M

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way

Nat

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l Pri

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16

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54

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6013

06

68

51

21

12

1005

66 64 33

03

5624

382649

6532

4469

14

35

30

40

3952

50

45

17

01

20

61

5936

62

1115

27

07

37

22

19

41

43

47

63

02

57

67

31

18

04

46

09

28 08

53

23

55

48

N11 TO BRAY,

WICKLOW

, WEXFORD

ROSSLARE CAR FERRY

HEUSTON

THE POINT

BUSÁRAS

A

1

2

3

B C D

DONNYBROOK

MALAHIDE

TO SKERRIESBALBRIGGAN, RUSH & LUSK

OLDTOWN

CountyMeath

CountyKildare

County Wicklow

DONABATE

SWORDS

KINSEALY

MALAHIDE ROAD

SUTTON

BALGRIFFIN

HOWTH

RAHENYCOOLOCK

ARTANE

DARNDALE

FINGLAS

CABRAPHIBSBORO

NAVAN ROADCLONSILLA

CASTLEKNOCKGLASNEVIN

DRUMCONDRA

FAIRVIEWPHOENIX PARK

ISLANDBRIDGE

SANTRYBALLYMUN

BEAUMONTWHITEHALL

CLONTARF

HOWTH ROAD

PORTMARNOCK

FOXROCK

DARTRY

RINGSENDSANDYMOUNT

BALLSBRIDGE

BELFIELD

BLACKROCK

MOUNT MERRIONMONKSTOWN

STILLORGAN

DEANSGRANGE

KILLINEY

SHANKILL

SOUTH BRAY

GREYSTONES

SKERRIES

BALBRIGGAN

DELGANY

KILCOOLENEWTOWNMOUNTKENNEDY

TO BRITTAS BAY

TO MAYNOOTH(CARTON HOUSE)

KILTERNAN

CABINTEELY

SANDYFORD

RATHGAR

RATHMINESRANELAGH

DOLPHINS BARN

CRUMLIN

NAAS ROAD

CLONDALKIN

SAGGART

NEWCASTLE

TERENURERATHFARNHAM

CHURCHTOWN

DUNDRUM

GLENCULLEN

LUCAN

ONGAR

CHAPELIZOD

FIRHOUSE

ST. MARGARET'S

RATHCOOLE

BALLYFERMOT

PALMERSTOWN

WALKINSTOWN

SANDYCOVEDALKEY

TEMPLEOGUE

DUN LAOGHAIRETALLAGHT

CITY CENTRE

DUBLIN AIRPORT

M1

M1

N2

R132

N3

N4

N7 N81

N11

M50

M50

M50

D13

D5D11

D15 D7

D2

D1

D17

D9D3

D20

D22

D24D14

D16 D18

D6D4

D8

D12

D10

Motorway

National Primary Roads

DART

Luas Green Line

Luas Red Line

Dublin Tourism Office

City Centre

North City

South City

North County

South County

16

25

54

70

29

4258

6013 06

68

51

21

12

10 05

66

64

33

03

5624

3826

4965

32

4469

14

35

30

40

3952

50

45

17

01

20

61

5936

62

1115

27

07

37

22

19

41

43

47

63

02

57

67

31

18

04

46

09

28

08

53

23

55

48

N11 TO BRAY,

WICKLOW

, WEXFORD

ROSSLARE CAR FERRY

HEUSTON

THE POINT

BUSÁRAS

A

1

2

3

B C D

DONNYBROOK

MALAHIDE

TO SKERRIESBALBRIGGAN, RUSH & LUSK

OLDTOWN

CountyMeath

CountyKildare

County Wicklow

DONABATE

SWORDS

KINSEALY

MALAHIDE ROAD

SUTTON

BALGRIFFIN

HOWTH

RAHENYCOOLOCK

ARTANE

DARNDALE

FINGLAS

CABRAPHIBSBORO

NAVAN ROADCLONSILLA

CASTLEKNOCKGLASNEVIN

DRUMCONDRA

FAIRVIEWPHOENIX PARK

ISLANDBRIDGE

SANTRYBALLYMUN

BEAUMONTWHITEHALL

CLONTARF

HOWTH ROAD

PORTMARNOCK

FOXROCK

DARTRY

RINGSENDSANDYMOUNT

BALLSBRIDGE

BELFIELD

BLACKROCK

MOUNT MERRIONMONKSTOWN

STILLORGAN

DEANSGRANGE

KILLINEY

SHANKILL

SOUTH BRAY

GREYSTONES

SKERRIES

BALBRIGGAN

DELGANY

KILCOOLENEWTOWNMOUNTKENNEDY

TO BRITTAS BAY

TO MAYNOOTH(CARTON HOUSE)

KILTERNAN

CABINTEELY

SANDYFORD

RATHGAR

RATHMINESRANELAGH

DOLPHINS BARN

CRUMLIN

NAAS ROAD

CLONDALKIN

SAGGART

NEWCASTLE

TERENURERATHFARNHAM

CHURCHTOWN

DUNDRUM

GLENCULLEN

LUCAN

ONGAR

CHAPELIZOD

FIRHOUSE

ST. MARGARET'S

RATHCOOLE

BALLYFERMOT

PALMERSTOWN

WALKINSTOWN

SANDYCOVEDALKEY

TEMPLEOGUE

DUN LAOGHAIRETALLAGHT

CITY CENTRE

DUBLIN AIRPORT

M1

M1

N2

R132

N3

N4

N7 N81

N11

M50

M50

M50

D13

D5D11

D15 D7

D2

D1

D17

D9D3

D20

D22

D24D14

D16 D18

D6D4

D8

D12

D10

Motorway

National Primary Roads

DART

Luas Green Line

Luas Red Line

Dublin Tourism Office

City Centre

North City

South City

North County

South County

16

25

54

70

29

4258

6013 06

68

51

21

12

10 05

66

64

33

03

5624

3826

4965

32

4469

14

35

30

40

3952

50

45

17

01

20

61

5936

62

1115

27

07

37

22

19

41

43

47

63

02

57

67

31

18

04

46

09

28

08

53

23

55

48

N7 TO CORK, LIMERICK

AND KILLARNEY


Strangford L.

Lough Swilly

Sheephaven Bay

Lough F

oyle

St. John's Pt.

Dunany Pt.

Howth Hd.

Wicklow Hd.

Cahore Pt.

Carnsore Pt.

Hook Hd.

Knockadoon Hd.

Old Head of Kinsale

Galley Hd.

Mizen Hd.

Bray Hd.

Kerry Hd

Clogher Hd.

Loop Hd.

Donegal Pt.

Hags Hd.

Erris Hd.

Clew Bay

Slyne Hd.

Bloody Foreland

Fair Hd.

Cods Hd.

Brandon Point

Golam Hd.

Achill Hd.

Benwee Hd.Downpatrick Hd.

Malin Hd.

Fanad Hd.

Inishowen Hd.Giant's Causeway

Tory Island

Rathlin Island

Belfast L

ough

Carlingford L.

DundalkBay

DublinBay

Wexford Bay

Waterford

Harbour

Cork Harbour

Clear Island

Bantry Bay

Kenmare River

Dingle Bay

TraleeBay

Shannon Estuary

Blasket Islands

Galway Bay

Achill Island

Gweebarra Bay

Donegal Bay

Sligo Bay

Killala Bay

Blacksod Bay

Clare Island

Inishturk

Inishbofin

Dunmanus BayDursey Island Bere Island

Valentia Island

Inishmore

InishmaanInisheer

Lambay Island

A r a n I s l a n d s

Aran Island

52°

53°

54°

55°

10° 9° 8° 7° 6°

52°

53°

54°

55°

L.Conn

L.Arrow

L.Gara

L.Gill

L. Macnean

L. Allen

L.Melvin

L. Derg

UpperL. Erne

LowerL. Erne

L. Neagh

L. Oughter

L. SheelinL. Gowna

L Key

L. Ree

L. Derg

L. Mask

L. Corrib

L. Carra

LackenReservoir

L. Derravaragh

Lakes ofKillarney

L. Ennell

Foyle

Clare

Derry

Deel

Moy

Unshin

Finn

Derg

Bann

Lagan

Bann

Blackwater

Shannon

Shan

non

Blackwater

Lee

Suir

NoreB

arrow

Slaney

Liffey

Boyne

Blackwater

FealeDeale

Erne

Erne

Foyle

Bandon

Brosna

MAYO

SLIGO

CLARE

KERRY

LIMERICK

CORK

TIPPERARY

WATERFORD

WEXFORD

CARLOW

KILKENNY

LAOIS

KILDARE

WICKLOW

DUBLIN

MEATH

OFFALY

WESTMEATH

LONGFORD

ROSCOMMON

CAVANLOUTH

LEITRIM

FERMANAGH

DONEGALDERRY

ANTRIM

DOWNARMAGH

MONAGHAN

GALWAY

TYRONE

Easkey

Dromore West

Coleraine

Tullamore

Bantry

Kilkenny

Lisburn

Armagh

Ballina

Castlebar

Longford

Roscommon

Shannon

Listowel

Kenmare

Youghal

Dungarvan

Newry

Monaghan

Enniskillen

Larne

Donegal

Sligo

Dundalk

Drogheda

Dun Laoghaire

Bray

Mullingar

Athlone

EnnisNenagh

Portlaoise

Naas

Tralee

KillarneyMallow

TipperaryClonmel

Wexford

New Ross

Carlow

Westport

Cavan

Enniscorthy

Tramore

CobhMidleton

Mitchelstown

Kilrush

Tuam

Ballinasloe

Loughrea

Ballyshannon

Letterkenny

Ballymena

LurganPortadown

Strabane

Cookstown

Dungannon

Omagh

Ardee

Navan

Maynooth

Athy

Kildare

Birr

Edenderry

Newcastle West

Carrick-on-Suir

Thurles

Roscrea

Portarlington

Wicklow

Arklow

CarrickfergusAntrim

Rosslare Harbour

Carrick-on-Shannon

Skibbereen

GalwayDublin

Limerick

Waterford

Cork

Belfast

Derry

N17

N6

N6

M4

M7

M9

N7

M7

N7

N8

N8

N8

N8

N8

N8

N22

N22

N22

N21

N21

N21

N20

N20

N20

N20

N25N25

N25

N25

N7

N18

N18

N18

N18

N6

N17

N17

N17N4

N5

N4

N4

N9

N9

N9

N10

N10

N9

N25

N25

N11

N11

N11

N11

M1N2

N3

M50

M1

M1

M1

N2

N2

N3

N3

A1

A1

A1

A28

A29

A29

A6

A2

A2

A2

A2

M2

A3

A3A4

A4 M1

A5

A5

A5

A32

N3

A4N16

N15

N15

N15

N15

N14

N13

N24N24

A26

A505

A32

N5 N5

A26

N25

N79

N80

N78

N77

N76

N62

N62

N52

N52

N52

N66

N63

N63 N61N55

N55

N55

N60

N60

N57N59

N59

N59

N84

N59

N59

N59

N56

N56

N56

N56

N56

N83

N60

N52

N52

N51

N51

N54N54

N69

N85

N69

N70

N70 N71

N71

N71

N71

N73

N72

N72

N72

N74

N67

N67

N68

N81

i

i

ii

i

i

i

i

ii

ii

ii

i

i

ii

i

i

ii

i

ii

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i i

i

i

i

i

i i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

ii

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

ii

i

i

i

i

i

i i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

ii

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

i

I R I S HS E A

ST. GEORGE’SCHANNEL

C E L T I C S E A

A T L A N T I CO C E A N

N O RT H C

HA

NN

EL

Whilst every care has been taken to ensure accuracy in the compilation of this map,

Fáilte Ireland cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

Because of the small scale of this map, not all holiday centres can be shown. The information on this map is

correct at the time of going to press.

© January 2006 Fáilte Ireland

0 20 40 60 80km

50mls0 10 20 30 40

K I L O M E T R E S

M I L E S

Motorways

Motorways (under construction)

National Primary Routes

National Secondary Routes

Other Routes (selected)

Railways

County Boundary

Northern Ireland Border

N22

M50

M50

N71

ii

i

Coastal Sandy Beach

Airports

International Car Ferry

Local Car / Passenger Ferry

Tourist Information Offices

(all year)

Tourist Information Offices

(seasonal)

Distances in Kilometres (blue) and in miles (red)

Car drivers and front seat passengers must wear seat belts. No children under the

age of 12 years may ride in front seats.

Motor cyclists and passengers must wear helmets

Athlon

e

Belfast

Cork

Derry

Doneg

al

Dublin

Dunda

lk

Galway

Kilken

ny

Killarn

ey

Limeri

ck

Roscom

mon

Rosslar

e

Harbou

r

Shann

on

Airpor

t

Sligo

Wate

rford

Wex

ford

227

219

209

183

127

144

93

116

232

121

32

201

133

117

164

184

424

117

180

167

84

306

284

436

323

224

330

346

206

333

309

428

402

256

323

209

148

87

105

251

208

128

336

126

187

69

237

156

272

335

441

328

211

397

351

135

383

378

233

157

204

309

407

296

151

391

282

66

357

372

85

212

114

304

193

156

153

218

214

163

135

237

197

350

242

151

245

264

166

242

226

172

193

104

80

274

93

138

220

253

198

113

158

98

135

245

48

80

111

264

275

135

343

193

254

149

211

25

232

129

190

241

154

85

208

222

234

325

82

19

218

152

213

293

307 61

141

136

130

114

78

90

58

78

144

75

20

130

83

73

108

117

264

73

112

104

52

190

177

271

201

139

205

215

128

207

192

266

250

160

202

130

92

54

65

156

129

80

209

78

116

43

147

97

169

208

274

204

131

247

218

84

238

235

138

98

127

192

253

184

94

243

176

41

222

231

53

136

73

192

123

91

101

138

135

98

88

148

123

219

150

94

153

165

104

151

141

107

120

65

51

170

57

86

137

157

123

70

98

62

85

152

30

50

69

164

171

84

213

120

158

94

131

15

144

80

118

150

96

53

129

138

146

203

51

12

136

95

133

182

191 39

Emyvale

Kilrea

Howth

Cleggan

An Spidéal (Spiddal)

Portumna

Kinsale

Courtown

Gorey

Portaferry

Bangor

Downpatrick

Ballyclare

Newcastle

Aughnacloy

Magherafelt

DromoreIrvinestown

Newtownstewart

Lifford

Ballybofey

Rossnowlagh

Stranorlar

Buncrana

Ballyliffen

MovilleCarndonagh

Greencastle

MalinCuldaff

Portsalon

RathmullenMilford

Dunfanaghy

Gortahork

An Bun Beag (Bunbeg)

Ailt an Chorráin (Burtonport)

Gaoth Dobhair(Gweedore)

An Clochán Liath(Dungloe)

Carnlough

Ballymoney

BallycastlePortrush

Limavady

Dungiven

Ardara

Glenties

Gleann Cholm Cille(Glencolumbkille)

Malinmore

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Kilcar

BelleekBundoran

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Grange

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DromahairDerrylin

SwanlinbarBallyconnell

Inishcrone

Crossmolina

Killala

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KeelCashel

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Iniskeen

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Virginia

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AthboyBalbriggan

SkerriesRush

SwordsMalahide

Greystones

Avoca

Rathdrum

AshfordGlendalough

Clane

Trim

Kinnegad

Granard

Edgeworthstown

StrokestownCastlerea

Ballyhaunis

Knock

ClaremorrisLouisburgh

Roonah Quay

LeenáunRenvyle

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Clifden Sraith Salach(Recess)

Roundstone

Ballyconneely

Cárna (Carna)

Oughterard

Headford

CongClonbur

Ballinrobe

An Cheathrú Rua (Carraroe)Ros an Mhil (Rossaveal)

Salthill

Oranmore

Athenry

Kilreekill

Mount Bellew

Lanesborough

Ballymahon

Moate

KilcormacBanagher

Clonmacnoise

TerryglassGort

MountshannonDromineerScarriff

Tulla

Killaloe Templemore

Holycross

Urlingford

Durrow

Abbeyleix

Stradbally

Droichead Nua (Newbridge)

Ballyvaughan

Lisdoonvarna

EnnistymonLahinch

Miltown Malbay

Kilkee

Kilbaha

Killimer

FoynesTarbertBallybunion

Ballyheige

Castleisland

Abbeyfeale

RathkealeAdare

Kilmallock

Rath Luirc (Charleville)

Camp

Castlegregory

An Daingean(Dingle)

Killorglin

Glenbeigh

Cahirciveen

Waterville

Sneem

Glengarriff

Castletown Bere

Schull

Baltimore

RosscarberyClonakilty

Courtmacsherry

Dunmanway

Inchigeelagh

Macroom Blarney

Bandon

BallycottonCrosshavenCarrigaline

Ardmore

Millstreet

Kanturk

Buttevant

Fermoy

Watergrasshill

Cahir

Lismore Dunmore East

Kilmore Quay

WellingtonBridge

Fethard

Ballyhack

Passage East

Ferns

Bunclody

GraiguenamanaghCallan

Castlecomer

Thomastown

Bagenalstown

Tullow

Castleblayney

Banbridge

Newtownards

Rosslare

Goleen

Doolin

Cashel

BlessingtonEnniskerry

Tallaght

Baltinglass

Portstewart

CushendunCushendall

Whitehead

Ballynahinch

Donaghadee

Hillsborough

Warrenpoint

Carlingford

Tandragee

Keady

Dunleer

Kilbeggan

Castlepollard

Cappoquin

Inverin

N5


CARROLL’SIRISH GIFTS

CARROLL’SIRISH GIFTS

WESTMORELAND STREET

33 LWR O’CONNELL ST57/58 UPR O’CONNELL ST

STEPHENS GREEN SC.

TALBOT STREET

SUFFOLK STREET

HENRY STREET

www.carrollsirishgifts.com

GREAT VALUE LICENSED CLOTHING & GIFTWARE

All shops open 7 days a week ,till late!

OfficialLicensed

Merchandise

Clifton Hall, Fitzwilliam Street Lower, Dublin 2.

Quote the code “In Your Pocket” and receive a

FREE €10 BETwhen you sign into the club as a new member.

The Fitzwilliam Casino & Card Club is a member of the Gaming and Leisure Association of Ireland

Please call: 01 611 4677

and we will comeand collect you!

ROULETTE • POKER • PUNTO BANCO • BRIT BRAG • BLACKJACK

Open 24 - hours a day7 days - a - week

Merrion Square S

Merrion Square Park

Mer

rion

Squa

re E

uare N

Lower Mount St

Upper Mount St

Low

er F

itzw

illia

m S

tree

tJa

mes

St E James Place E

Step

hens

Pla

ce

Stre

et

Fitzwilliam Lane

Lower Baggot St

Bagg

ot C

t

5298 Fitzwilliam Card Club Ad-2:Layout 1 02/02/2009 14:14 Page 2

dublin

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