THE HAUTE HORLOGERIE EXHIBITION IN ASIA30 September - 2 October 2014 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

Editorial

Fabienne Lupo, Chairwoman and Managing Director Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

For the second consecutive year, WATCHES&WONDERS came to the Hong

Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Proof of a highly successful format,

this new edition also confirmed this exclusive event as the now annual date

with Fine Watchmaking in Asia. Designed and developed by the Fondation

de la Haute Horlogerie in partnership with the thirteen exhibiting Maisons,

WATCHES&WONDERS cultivates authenticity in a warm and welcoming

atmosphere that is ideal for meeting other watch enthusiasts, and an immer-

sion in the unique environment of each Maison.

No effort was spared so that Fine Watchmaking could reveal the qualities

and specificities of an activity that draws on some forty individual profes-

sions, with no equivalent anywhere in the luxury segment. With close to

three thousand watches on display, workshops that lifted the veil on the

secrets of mechanical watchmaking, informative talks on the creations and

history of the brands, demonstrations of watchmaking’s métiers d’art, and

an exhibition on the origins of time measurement in the planets and stars,

WATCHES&WONDERS 2014 and its thirteen Maisons brought the magic

of Fine Watchmaking to Asia, and offered a vast array of opportunities for an

audience eager to learn more about the science and art of time.

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THE HAUTE HORLOGERIE EXHIBITION IN ASIA30 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2014

HKCEC - Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

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WATCHES& WONDERS 2014 A Tribute to Asia

Hong Kong rapidly stood out as the obvi-ous choice for WATCHES&WONDERS. This Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China is the biggest export market for Swiss watches and an open door to China, currently the third-ranking destination for Swiss timepieces.

The event was staged inside the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Dr. Peter Lam, Chairman of the Hong Kong Tourism Board, declared that “the return of this prestigious event is solid proof of Hong Kong’s reputation as the region’s events capital. Our Meetings and Exhibitions Hong Kong office and trade partners have provided the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie with customised support and together we look forward to another successful exhibition here in Hong Kong, Asia’s world city.”

WATCHES&WONDERS returned to Hong Kong in September 2014 for its second consecutive year. With this new edition, the thirteen Maisons taking part made clear their commitment to what has become a highly anticipated event in Asia for any admirer of fine time-pieces. Furthermore, WATCHES&WONDERS’ presence on Chinese soil reflects the growing importance of the region’s markets that has been observed in recent years.

The figures speak for themselves. Since the early 2000s, Asia-Pacific countries have been influential in the growth of the Swiss watch industry as prime destinations for its exports. The region’s economic development has led to wealth creation and the emergence of a population with higher purchasing power. This upthrust is reflected in the figures for Swiss watch exports. Between 2003 and 2013, the Asia-Pacific zone witnessed cumulative growth of 254% in Swiss watch exports, achieving USD 8.82 billion, compared with an increase of 122% for international markets as a whole over the same period. The region now accounts for 38% of all Swiss watch exports in value terms, ahead of Europe (30%) and North America (11%).

Hong Kong, the obvious choice

2014 in figuresVisitors

16,000The event drew just over 16,000 visitors from across Asia, a similar number to 2013.

Exhibitors

13As in 2013, thirteen Fine Watch Maisons travelled to Hong Kong, each one the guardian of the expertise and passion of Fine Watchmaking.

Journalists

800The media is essential to an event such as WATCHES&WONDERS. Extensive coverage by journalists confirmed the show as the only one of its kind in Asia.

Guests

10,500Collectors and admirers of fine watches accepted the exhibiting Maisons’ invitation to view their newest creations.

Magazines

60Highlighting the impor-tance of the event, the region’s magazines carried sixty adverti-sements placed by the exhibiting Maisons as part of their promotional campaigns.

HONG KONG

BEIJING

SHANGHAI

Wonderful Hong Kong

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The second edition of WATCHES&WONDERS drew to a close after four amazingly rich days packed with encoun-ters and exchanges amid stunning creations. This rare opportunity to view the very latest high-end timepieces, as well as to meet and interact with their creators in an exclu-sive, tailor-made format, drew some 16,000 visitors and 800 journalists, thus confirming WATCHES&WONDERS as the unparalleled Fine Watchmaking event for Asian collectors and aficionados.

Baggage claim screens at the airport, billboards and banners on lampposts, even trams zipping through the streets all heralded WATCHES&WONDERS 2014 in beautiful blue around Hong Kong. Thirteen European Maisons, led by their Chief Executive Officers, met with visitors to the exhibition to share their passion and knowl-edge of the noble craft of creating fine timepieces.

Hong Kong embellished by time

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As an exhibition open to the public, architecturally WATCHES&WONDERS had to serve the same cause as the timepieces on display. With this in mind, the differ-ent areas were appointed to ensure complete comfort in a setting that was elegant and festive while imparting an intimate, warm atmosphere. Wide aisles for ease of movement, chill-out zones, monumental entrances to the booths, display windows set aside for brands’ iconic watches… every element was designed to create unity of style and an impression of grandeur. Each Maison was then free to instil its own spirit to the interior of its booth, which was personalised in brand colours. Such a unique approach is clearly intended to give prominence to the extraordinary time-pieces which are the essence of a Fine Watch show.

Architectural concept

Wonderful Hong Kong

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Enter the Show

Exhibiting Maisons 8 - 33

In the spotlight 34 - 35

Watchmaking Culture 36 - 37

Opening Ceremony 38 - 39

Cocktail 40 - 417

Exhibiting Maisons

Demand for A. Lange & Söhne watches already exceeds production, and the brand has yet to make its presence felt in numerous markets not to mention the women’s segment. All of which gives Glashütte’s own plenty to celebrate in this 20th anniversary year.

Autumn got off to a busy start for A. Lange & Söhne. Fresh from the opening of two own-name boutiques, one in Moscow followed just days later by another in New York, the Saxon brand was Asia-bound. A hectic schedule in sharp contrast with the stately pace of a brand known for its steadfast pursuit of higher mechanical realms and an almost obsessive devotion to finishing, brought together by irreproachable German classicism.

“It’s that final stretch, those last few percent extra which are the hardest to attain, and this is precisely what we have come here to Hong Kong to show,” commented Chief Executive Wilhelm Schmid. “I’m well aware that a lot of people are unfamil-iar with A. Lange & Söhne, including admirers of mechanical watchmaking. Not that I take offence. Rather, our role at the Manufacture is to ensure that anyone who shows an interest, anyone who does their research will be sure to find us.”

Commemorating the twentieth anniver-sary of its (re)launch, the brand presented, at WATCHES&WONDERS, a set of two Lange 1 20th Anniversary watches, the exact same model which in 1994 marked A. Lange & Söhne’s return centre-stage. They were joined by a Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite in white gold with fusee-and-chain transmission, stop-seconds mechanism and a pivoting dial segment inside the hour circle, and by a Langematik Perpetual, the Manufacture’s first automatic wristwatch with perpetual calendar and oversized date, proposed in white gold with a black dial. Says Wilhelm Schmid: “These are icons in our collections and it is thanks to them that A. Lange & Söhne is now positioned exactly where it was more than fifty years ago. A progression of which we are particu-larly proud.”

Model shown Lange 1 “20th Anniversary”

Wilhelm SchmidCEO

A. Lange & Söhne The future is ours

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Audemars Piguet takes a pragmatic

approach

François-Henry Bennahmias CEO

Exhibiting Maisons

At WATCHES&WONDERS, Audemars Piguet Chief Executive François-Henry Bennahmias looked back over a year of transition for the brand.

Ever since his appointment as Chief Executive of Audemars Piguet, François-Henry Bennahmias has been looking to rein in the brand. “2013 and 2014 were about consolidation,” he comments. “I do believe we’ve reached a milestone. We’re up and over the other side of the mountain. I think we were right to ease off a little. Retailers in Asia clearly want to push Audemars Piguet because it’s a brand that brings them value; a brand they know will make them money. So it seems ours was the right strategy.”

Too many brands, too many products, too many new materials, too many “breakthrough” tech-nologies… a situation which, Bennahmias says, left retailers overwhelmed. His response has been to “pick what we do well and see what we could do without. This wasn’t a revolution. The aim was to restore consistency, reduce the size of the collections, and in doing so simplify produc-tion processes and inventory. In a word, be more pragmatic with respect to the markets. Now we’ve achieved our goal.”

After these two “quiet” years, should customers look forward to something spectacular in 2015? François-Henry Bennahmias lifts a corner of the veil: “Without giving too much away, the products we’ll be presenting are likely to cause the same excitement as in 2012, when Audemars Piguet celebrated the Royal Oak’s fortieth anniversary. So we can look ahead to some pleasant moments that we’ll be sharing with our Asian customers next year in Hong Kong. This is one of the major advantages of this fair, which brings us closer to the people who enjoy wearing our watches. When I think we are probably the last luxury industry which, globally speaking, doesn’t know its end customer, well, it shows how much progress we still have to make.”

Model shown Royal Oak Offshore Self-winding Tourbillon Chronograph

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Exhibiting Maisons

At WATCHES&WONDERS, the brand unveiled Promesse, its new collection for women.

“Over the past years, Baume & Mercier has experienced a cycle in which men’s watches have been more prominent, which by no means signifies we are neglecting our female clientele,” observes Chief Executive Alain Zimmermann. “For more than a hundred years, Baume & Mercier has regu-larly made timepieces for women, not least the pocket watch that Louis-Victor Baume gave to his daughter Mélina in 1869, an age when ladies weren’t meant to concern themselves with the time.”

The brand came to Asia with renewed confirmation that women’s timepieces are entrenched in its DNA. The new Promesse collection takes its cue from a vintage 1970s watch featuring a round ring circling an oval case. This is echoed in the new Promesse watch by a round dial inside an oval bezel, set into a round case. The dial in mother-of-pearl or decorated with drapé guillochage is uncluttered, with four Roman

numerals, bevelled hour and minute hands, and extended by horns that blend into the bracelet. A simplicity that is all the more difficult to propose on the highly coveted round watch market.

“At Baume & Mercier, we have no inten-tion of giving in to fashion any more than we intend to give in to facility. We create contemporary watches and we create them as an open door to beautiful timepieces,” continues Zimmermann. In this respect, the new Promesse collection with its boldly asserted bijou-watch identity gives new edge to the brand in the women’s segment, as it prepares to celebrate its 185th anniver-sary in 2015.

Model shown Baume & Mercier Promesse 10184

Alain Zimmermann CEO

Baume & Mercier reveals its “Promesse”

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Cartier, the dreamweaver

Exhibiting Maisons

In Hong Kong, Cartier again left no doubt as to its capacity for innovation.

Cartier’s presentations at WATCHES&WONDERS in Hong Kong had no time for long, drawn-out speeches. After a brief and informative introduc-tion to the firm, established 1847, it was time to hand over to the products - “the reason you’re here” as the master of ceremonies observed. After the creative onslaught that came early in the year, when the brand unveiled some one hundred new products at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Cartier arrived in Hong Kong with sixteen new creations including two origi-nal movements, five one-off pieces, Les Heures Joaillières, and a mystery clock. A feat very few Maisons are able to achieve in such a short lapse of time.

“From the very beginning, Cartier watchmaking has reached out to dreamers and free spirits such as Yves Saint Laurent and Andy Warhol,” declared International Marketing and Communications Director Arnaud Carrez. “We are continuing in this vein with watches that we like to describe as creative horology.” The pieces unveiled at WATCHES&WONDERS didn’t err from this

reputation, not least the Pasha 42mm Skeleton Dragon motif watch. The hand-wound 9617 MC calibre, set with 233 diamonds on the dial side and fully engraved on the reverse side, indeed resem-bles the dragon of legends, a symbol of power and prestige. The Rotonde de Cartier Second Time Zone Day/Night with its 1904-FU MC calibre ushers in a new collection of petites complications for men by combining a second time zone, a day/night indication, large date and small seconds.

This left Les Heures Joaillières, a collection of five one-off creations spanning abstraction, hidden time and new interpretations of the animals that are part of the Cartier legend. The métiers d’art are prominent in these new pieces, unsurprisingly perhaps as Cartier has championed these decora-tive arts since 1999.

Model shown Pasha de Cartier 42 mm Skeleton Dragon motif watch skeletonised bridges forming the shape of a dragon, calibre 9617 MCVincent Wulveryck © Cartier 2014

Stanislas de QuercizeCEO

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Exhibiting Maisons

The Italian fishing village of Portofino is the symbol of la dolce vita. It is also the name of one of IWC’s flagship collections, now home to new models for women.

Given the number of times IWC has descended on Portofino - for each launch in its eponymous collection - the brand should soon be entitled to its commemo-rative plaque on a wall of this tiny village, situated along the coast from Genoa, on the Italian Riviera. Something along the lines of “To our Swiss watchmaking friends IWC, in grateful recognition.”

After taking up residence there in 2010, under the photographic eye of Peter Lindbergh, the brand returned this year to prepare the promotional campaign for its new Portofino watches, orchestrated by a certain… Peter Lindbergh. Four years ago, the objective was to breathe new life into this classically elegant range, first launched in 1984 and reimagined with new models - not least the Portofino Hand-Wound 8 Days - driven by the 59000 family of cali-bres. At the 2011 Salon International de

la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, the brand even recreated the atmosphere of an Italian piazzetta, Portofino style, complete with Vespas and movie stars, so aficionados might soak up the sweet Italian life.

The spirit of Italy returned to WATCHES&WONDERS for a launch of no small significance: that of IWC’s latest watches for women, which fit comfort-ably into the Portofino collection. The Portofino Midsize line comprises three models - Automatic (hours, minutes, date), Automatic Moon Phase, and Automatic Day & Night (24-hour display, second time zone) - with seventeen versions in all. Each has a 37  mm case and most are set with diamonds on the case, the bezel or both. This new Portofino Midsize is, says IWC, “a modern interpretation of luxury.”

Model shown Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase

Georges KernCEO

IWC returns to its favourite

Portofino

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Exhibiting Maisons

Daniel RiedoCEO

As the adventure of the first Hybris Artistica draws to a close, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a new collection in the offing, scheduled for 2015.

The Grande Maison de la Vallée de Joux has the wind in its sails, as the success of the first Hybris Artistica shows. Initially just twelve were to be made, one of each model, but as demand grew beyond expectations their number was increased to thirty.

“When thirteen years ago we launched the Hybris Mechanica collection, the reflection of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise and innovation in grandes complications, our objective wasn’t just to produce exceptional timepieces. We also wanted the results of this research to trickle down into the other collections,” notes Chief Executive Daniel Riedo. “The same is true of the Hybris Artistica watches. We intend them to open up new applications for the métiers d’art that will benefit the Maison’s other ranges. The Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater that we’re showing at WATCHES&WONDERS is a perfect illustration of this.”

That the spirit of the Hybris Artistica should be spreading to the Rendez-Vous line ought to come as no surprise. Introduced barely three years ago, this flagship women’s collection now accounts for 40% of sales in quantity. In fact its success has been such that each year Jaeger-LeCoultre has had to double production capacity for this range. As is often the case, one good thing leads to another, as Daniel Riedo explains: “Whereas 2016 will be the year of the Reverso, we are working on a new collection, our eighth, for 2015 that will also benefit from developments made for the Hybris series. Between the Duomètre, with its highly complex movements, and the Master range which is a compromise between classicism and technical performance, we feel there is room for a new line that will cover a high added-value segment.”

Model shown Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater

Jaeger-LeCoultre caught in a

virtuous circle

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Exhibiting Maisons

Since Jérôme Lambert took the commands, Montblanc has been pulling out all the stops.

Montblanc came to WATCHES&WONDERS with a clear objective in mind: “to bring our Manufacture spirit to Hong Kong,” in the words of International Director for Watches Alexander Schmiedt. Accordingly, the brand spent some considerable time presenting its two production sites: the first, in Le Locle, specialising in large volumes and the second, in Villeret, a fully inte-grated facility right down to balance springs, for its prestige series.

Driving the point home, Montblanc went on to give a full-blown demonstration of its talents in the form of Metamorphosis II. A WATCHES&WONDERS exclusivity of which eighteen will be made, Metamorphosis II is a condensed package of micromechanical exper-tise, thanks to which the face of the watch is transformed from an hours, minutes and date configuration to a monopusher chronograph. A mechanism causes the timekeeping dial to disap-pear and be replaced by the chronograph subdials.

After choosing the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva to unveil its new

Meisterstück Heritage range - proof of a fresh new impetus brought to life by sober, classic designs in true horological fashion - the brand gave a repeat performance in Hong Kong, this time with Bohème, a collection for women. “The work we did three years ago for the Princesse Grace de Monaco collection with its gem-set models gave us a strong starting point, but we had to go a step further to determine what we truly wanted to give women,” commented Chief Executive Jérôme Lambert. “Bohème is the answer.” Available from the brand’s 500 points of sale across 127 countries, these Bohème watches echo the words of Charles Aznavour’s legendary La Bohème, about “a time of happiness.”

Model shown Montblanc Metamorphosis II

Jérôme LambertCEO

Dynamic Montblanc

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Panerai,

true to form

Exhibiting Maisons

Panerai travelled to WATCHES&WONDERS with four new Radiomir 1940, and a revis-ited version of the watch it made for Sylvester Stallone.

Exclusivity is clearly the name of the game for the watches which Panerai developed especially for WATCHES&WONDERS, and which only four thousand Paneristi can hope to acquire. In all fairness, between its Radiomir design from 1936, revisited in 1940, and the Luminor watches launched in the 1950s, the brand doesn’t have endless choice, particularly as it makes it a point of honour never to depart from its origins.

While in Hong Kong, Panerai gave pride of place to the Radiomir 1940 which it proposed in two versions, one steel and one gold. Both are equipped with the self-winding P4000 movement. Celebrating a model which the brand sees as the perfect blend of Italian design and Swiss technol-ogy, these two new styles were joined by a special edition Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare featuring the hand-wound P3000 calibre and a plexiglas crystal, along with a Radiomir 1940 Tourbillon GMT Oro Rosso 48  mm. And there was more for aficionados to feast their eyes on. Any self-re-

specting fan knows of the role Sylvester Stallone played in reviving the brand’s fortunes, beginning during the shooting of Daylight on location in Italy. While just a handful of the original “made for Sly” watches survived, the brand’s associa-tion with the actor continued, giving rise to other products. Naturally, Panerai wasn’t about to gloss over such an important chapter in its history. Also at WATCHES&WONDERS, it showed a Luminor Black Seal with black dial and a Luminor Daylight with white dial. Both are driven by the P5000 movement and are presented together as a special edition set in a wood box. A worthy tribute to the “Slytech” made for the man who, as Rocky, had already left the box office reeling.

Model shown Radiomir 19403 Days Automatic Oro Rosso – 45 mm

Angelo BonatiCEO

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Exhibiting Maisons

Philippe Léopold-MetzgerCEO

At WATCHES&WONDERS in Hong Kong, Piaget trained the spotlight on its singularity in extra-thin, skeletonwork and the métiers d’art.

Anyone concerned they may leave WATCHES& WONDERS without having learned all there was to know about Piaget’s Altiplano 38  mm 900P needn’t have worried long. With such an impres-sive list of achievements in extra-thin timepieces, crowned by a double record for the thinnest self-winding watch in the world (5.25 mm), a title claimed in 2010 by the 1208P calibre (2.35 mm), and for the thinnest ever hand-wound watch with this very Altiplano 900P (3.65  mm case included), a brand has every right to be proud and say it loud!

“It seems everyone, or just about, is trying their hand at extra-thin,” declared Philippe Léopold-Metzger, Chief Executive of Piaget. “As though it had suddenly occurred to them that extra-thin is a cornerstone of elegance in watchmaking. At Piaget, we couldn’t be further from following a trend. Extra-thin is an integral part of the brand’s identity.” Driving the message home, Piaget chose WATCHES&WONDERS to present its expertise in extra-thin combined with skeletonisation, another

of its specialities, and with the added spice of engraving, enamelling or gem-setting.

The watch in question, the Altiplano Skeleton Automatic, is driven by the 1200S calibre, another record-breaker from 2012. Plate and bridges are fully enamelled, with six pieces in white enamel and a further six in black, each 5.34  mm high including the case. Visitors were also able to feast their eyes on another Altiplano Skeleton. This time bridges and plate are entirely hand-engraved, some on both sides. The crowning glory of the collections on show, however, was the Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Diamond-Set Automatic Skeleton. The last word goes to Philippe Léopold-Metzger: “We used to be masters of extra-thin timepieces. Today we are the masters of extra-thin timepieces.”

Model shown Piaget Altiplano 38 mm 900P

Piaget showcases the

watchmaker’s art

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Exhibiting Maisons

From the very inception of the brand, Richard Mille has endeavoured to apply to watchmaking the techniques and materials found in the most innovative sectors such as F1 racing car devel-opment and the aerospace industry, with the goal of creating an extreme timepiece, without compromise and without gimmick. The brand entered the Asian market early on and, recog-nising its importance, has developed boutiques throughout this territory, beginning in 2005 with a store at Pacific Place, Hong Kong. This was the very first Richard Mille boutique anywhere in the world, and currently one of the nine Richard Mille stores in Asia. Reflecting its develop-ment in Asia, the Maison has developed special watches such as the RM51-01 Tiger and Dragon, and this year promoted its new ladies’ collection.

Hong Kong, the ideal hub

“The Asia Pacific market has been an important one for the Swiss watch industry since the eight-eenth century,” explains Chief Executive Richard Mille. “I see WATCHES&WONDERS as being a natural development of this historical connec-tion. In fact you might ask why it didn’t happen sooner! There is now a much greater under-

standing of and interest in fine watches in the Asia Pacific region, and our products perfectly match the tastes of someone who cares about ultimate and exclusive watchmaking for the twenty-first century. WATCHES&WONDERS provides a fabulous platform in an increasingly complex and fast-paced world, and Hong Kong is the ideal hub for forging and developing rela-tions without obliging everyone to travel halfway round the world to meet us in Switzerland!”

Model shown RM 57-01 Phoenix and Dragon - Jackie Chan

Richard Mille CEO

For Richard Mille, extreme timepieces

are business as usual

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Exhibiting Maisons

Roger Dubuis put two collections centre-stage at WATCHES&WONDERS. One was Hommage, typical of the powerful mechanics that are close to the brand’s heart. The second was Velvet, an ode to womanhood.

A product launched without any real promo-tion often wins critical esteem but rarely popular acclaim. Roger Dubuis is one of the few brands to prove the contrary. The ultra-feminine Velvet collection, which it introduced in 2013, could easily have slipped under the radar. Unveiled to the world at the same time as Pulsion, Velvet had to make do with the crumbs from the watchmak-er’s advertising spend. And yet the product is “hot stuff ”, as Creative Director Alvaro Maggini explains. So it’s easy to see why Roger Dubuis turned the spotlight on Velvet at the Hong Kong fair, this time with a campaign that shows the watches being modelled by Stephanie Seymour.

Hommage, the year’s flagship collection at Roger Dubuis, was the second of its lines to unveil a new addition at the Asian fair, namely the Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic, yet another demonstration of the brand’s expertise in complications and the watch for Roger Dubuis’

twentieth anniversary in 2015, although as Chief Executive Jean-Marc Pontroué points out, the brand will be keeping celebrations low-key: “Twenty years is certainly an important mile-stone, but we prefer not to overdo things,” he said. This takes nothing away from the fact that of the brands which sprung up during the early 2000s boom, Roger Dubuis is one of the few that is still going strong. The recipe for success, according to Alvaro Maggini, is to have broken the mould; to have kickstarted creativity and given watch-making a good shake-up. “What I personally like about Roger Dubuis is its iconoclast nature; that of a Swiss brand with a Latin soul!”

Model shown Velvet Haute Couture Mink Fur

Jean-Marc Pontroué CEO

Roger Dubuis, the Swiss brand with a Latin soul

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Exhibiting Maisons

For the Manufacture, which in 2015 celebrates 170 years on Chinese soil, WATCHES&WONDERS in Hong Kong was almost a home from home.

If there were one timepiece to stand out among the marvels which Vacheron Constantin brought to WATCHES&WONDERS, it would be the Maître Cabinotier Astronomica, rightly given pride of place in the brand’s reception room. This pièce de résistance from the Manufacture combines no fewer than fifteen complications in the new, hand-wound 2755-B1 calibre.

The second major “event” wasn’t so much to do with ingenious mechanisms as the smile on the face of Chief Executive Juan-Carlos Torres. He announced, or rather intimated, the impend-ing sale of this one-of-a-kind Maître Cabinotier Astronomica. Vacheron Constantin is, after all, revered in the region. In fact 2015 will be the 170th year the brand has been present in China.

Understandably in this light, Vacheron Constantin came out in force at this second edition of the Hong Kong fair, in particular in the métiers d’art, another area for which it is renowned. Two fine jewellery timepieces, a Malte and a Traditionnelle,

demonstrated the Manufacture’s competencies in gem-setting. L’Eloge de la Nature, a new Métiers d’Art collection, presents animal scenes with both Western and Oriental inspirations. They draw on ornamental techniques such as gem-setting, engraving, engine-turning and enamelling, but also Japanese lacquer and stone cloisonné. The crowning glory, however, was the extraordinary Empreinte du Dragon, another astronomical complication watch whose case is lavished with dragon scales that have been hand-engraved by one of the most experienced master engravers of his generation. Women, meanwhile, could expe-rience the mechanical magic of a Traditionnelle Moonphase and Power Reserve.

Model shown Maître Cabinotier Astronomica

Juan-Carlos Torres CEO

Vacheron Constantin on familiar ground

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Exhibiting Maisons

Nicolas Bos, Chief Executive, Van Cleef & Arpels, expounds the philosophy behind the brand’s watches.

No need to roam the aisles of WATCHES& WONDERS in search of the Van Cleef & Arpels booth. Stationed at the entrance were a flesh-and-blood caryatid draped in the Maison’s jewels, and a beau sporting the Midnight Planetarium, an extraordinary mechanical watch that recreates in miniature the movement of the planets around the sun. What better introduction, particularly as - contrary to Europe where Van Cleef & Arpels is associated with a vast history and heritage - in Asia the brand is considered first and foremost as an international reference in jewellery. Which perhaps has its advantages, given the stronger prospects for growth in this segment?

“First let me say that our vocation is to remain a jeweller, but a jeweller with its own offering of timepieces,” says Chief Executive Nicolas Bos. “Having said that, it is true that the jewellery segment is still highly fragmented, as was the segment for leathergoods twenty years ago, with just 10% to 15% of the market held by the lead-

ing names. In this context, we can legitimately ask how far the brand phenomenon will go. While it’s obvious that brands can’t completely take over from the local market or the high-street jeweller, there is nonetheless a considerable margin for progress.”

But as Nicolas Bos emphasises, the brand has no intention of putting efforts made to develop its timepieces on hold. “We have always wanted to explore other avenues of time measurement while drawing on our expertise in jewellery and the métiers d’art. We’ve spent ten years working to prove to ourselves that we had the capacity to create and produce ‘watchmaker’s watches.’ Always with our own identity, that of Van  Cleef  &  Arpels, we have sought to acquire legitimate status as a watchmaker. I think we can say we have succeeded.”

Model shown Midnight Planétarium Poetic Complication

Nicolas Bos CEO

Van Cleef & Arpels: “We have acquired legitimate status as a watchmaker”

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In the spotlight

From left to right:

Baume & Mercier Clifton Retrograde Date Automatic, Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Diamond-Set Automatic Skeleton, Montblanc Bohème Date Automatic Red Gold, Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs, Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night Calibre 1904-FU MC, Photo 2000 © Cartier 2014

Time measured with grace and complexityOver the past dozen years or so, since the mechanical watch returned centre-stage, women have developed their own interest in such timepieces, prompting manufacturers to devote an important part of their collections to women. At the same time, the métiers d’art have become increasingly prominent. Once again innovation is key, as age-old crafts compete with tech-niques that until now were unknown in watchmaking. Examples include rose petal marquetry, glyptic and millefiori crystal. All these crafts offer infinite scope for expression, and instil a touch of poetry that makes horological mechanics even more desirable.

Until recently, watches came drenched in colour. In 2014, the emphasis was on black. Black underscores the beauty of a classical design, and such horologi-cal classicism is brought to the fore in extra-thin timepieces, a complication in itself. Once again in 2014, these wafer-thin watches have set numerous

world-firsts. Among the “traditional” complications, striking watches also stood out with an array of complex and innovative minute repeaters. Originally made to give time in all circumstances, and in particular when candles had been snuffed out for the night, they have been reimagined for today.

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From left to right:

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon - Perspective, Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Moon Phase and Power Reserve Small Model, A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual, Roger Dubuis Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic

From left to right:

Officine Panerai Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC – 44 mm, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon 44 mm, IWC Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night Richard Mille RM 56-02 Sapphire

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Watchmaking Culture

A star-studded exhibition

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“Horology, A Child of Astronomy”, an exhibition curated by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and based on a vast body of knowledge derived from observations of the stars and planets, sheds a very particular light on the culture of time meas-urement. It explores the gradual expansion of knowledge from which Man was able to define the physical laws of the universe and transpose this science into horological mechanisms.

The heart of the matter

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Three-hour workshops, organised by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, offered visitors to WATCHES&WONDERS an initiation to the fascinating world of watch-making as participants took apart then reassembled a mechanical movement. A capti-vating, hands-on incursion that gives the full measure of a highly-qualified profession.

Opening Ceremony

A moment to shareThirteen Fine Watch Maisons welcomed guests to the second edition of WATCHES&WONDERS to share their heritage, culture, know-how and, most notably, the splendour of their craft. In her opening speech, Fabienne Lupo, Chairwoman and Managing Director of the Fondation de la

Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, which organised the event, stressed the paramount importance of this interaction. Such transmission was indeed central to hosting the event in Asia. “We aspire to send Fine Watchmaking across continents, generations and cultures,” she said.

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Celebration!

Cocktail

Following the opening press conference, the many guests were able to browse the aisles and discover, in the company of the exhibit-ing Maisons’ Chief Executives, the year’s new watches. Admirers of fine timepieces were able

to see for themselves these extraordinary crea-tions, certain of which were specially made for an event that now has its place among the major international exhibitions devoted to technical and precious watches.

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WATCHES&WONDERS

in the Media

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WATCHES&WONDERS in the Media

Revolution Hong KongOctober 2014

South China Morning Post October 10, 2014

The Economic Observer October 20, 2014

Yunnan Information Newspaper October 14, 2014 43

WATCHES&WONDERS in the Media

Style WeeklyOctober 17, 2014

Beijing Evening News October 17, 2014

Esquire October 14, 2014

ET October 24, 2014

Apple Daily October 7, 2014

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Hong Kong Economic Times October 23, 2014

Spiral October 1, 2014

Jet MasterOctober 2014

The Liberty TimesOctober 17, 2014 45

WATCHES&WONDERS in the Media Vogue – TaiwanOctober 9, 2014

Luxury Insider – Blog (Staff Writer)October 8, 2014

The Millenary Singapore - Blog (Jonathan)October 26, 2014 46

ColophonPublication manager: Julien Pfister Editor in chief: Christophe Roulet Publication coordinators: Alexandre Gaillard, Fabio Teta Photo credits: © WATCHES&WONDERS English translation: Sandra Petch Graphic design: Atelier Zuppinger, Nyon Printing: Atar Roto Presse SA, Geneva © Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, 2015 All rights reserved for all countries. Reproduction of text and photographs is strictly prohibited. Printed in Switzerland, January 2015.

Special thanks go to staff at the exhibiting Maisons in Europe and in Asia, the FHH local delegation, the HKTB, the HKCEC, and to the numerous partners, suppliers and third parties who helped make the second edition of WATCHES&WONDERS such a resounding success.

From left to right:Morgan Aussel, Jerry Ip, Serena Chan, Joan Kong, Carmen Cheung, Wing Ng, Matthieu  Humair, Jérôme  Cazenave, Maude  Toulier, Eddy  Coublanc, Azdine  Belil, Benedict  Foo, Marie  Acton, Michael Schlegel, Vincent Lee, David Lin, Jason Chan, Keith Wong

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