Wonders of the Orient. by

Jayant Doshi

I was in the process of final preparations for NVK arranged trip to Japan and Korea on the morning of 9th

May 2015 when phone rang and learnt that two passengers will have to cancel as a family member had passed away that morning. A month earlier another couple had cancelled because of death in the family. Our numbers dropped from 36 to 32 and we were all at the airport for our night flight to Dubai and then to Tokyo. In spite of repeatedly having confirmed our vegetarian meals only nine members got a proper meal. After a short stop in Dubai we reached Tokyo hotel after midnight on 10th May.

We started our sightseeing the morning of 11th May and our first visit was to Tokyo tower. The tower was not very impressive. Later we visited a Buddhist temple and walked through a local market. The guide spoke little English and did not understand much of what I tried to tell him. We drove through the city but without any guidance it was nothing more than a ride in a coach. The itinerary included

visit to the beach and shopping malls in the afternoon. I told the guide that we would be interested in any cultural or local show but he was not of any help. But when I went to a bank to change money and the lady there gave us name of a show. However the show was only that afternoon and we all decided to cancel beach and malls and go for the show. It was a large theatre with a capacity of at least 1000 and it was almost packed with tourists and local people which led us to believe it must be a good show. But the show was in Japanese and we understood little. Most were sleeping but the last fifteen minutes was martial arts with action and that was the only part that woke up most of us. I later found out that it was ancient Japanese and even the local people did not

understand much. We had dinner in an Indian restaurant along a river. After dinner we went outside where the area was decorated with lights, it was nice cool night and the atmosphere was ecstatic.

In Japan, surprisingly toilets became the subject of discussion and pictures on the Facebook drew many comments. The toilets were fully automatic. The seat was heated up to give that pleasant feeling to the body. There were jets that would clean up the bums and one does not have to touch anything or fear catching any infection. The heating on the seats was so good, and the water jets so comforting, that one did not want to get up from it. Many have the habit of reading the newspaper while in the toilet and with these auto toilets one would finish reading the paper seating in that warm comfort.

We went early to bed but jet lag caught up with us and I could not sleep for a long while. While wake-up call was arranged the hotel did not give that. I got up in deep sleep and had to rush to get ready. After breakfast the guide told us to go to the parking lot where the coach was waiting for us. But we got lost in the maze and I had to find the guide and tell him off for this blunder. I wrote a complaint email to London agent. I talked to him by

phone later and told him that we cannot have this guide for whole tour. It is difficult to find a replacement at short notice but next day we got the good news that after Tokyo we will have different guides.

Our first visit was to a Japanese shrine of the original religion called Shinto which is still accepted and followed by many Japanese, together with Buddhism which is the main religion in Japan. Shinto worship nature but one of the temples we visited had 12 Chinese brass idols to represent 12 years. Surprisingly the idols were very similar (almost exact) to Hindu gods Shiva, Durga, Laxmi etc. I assume that centuries back Hindu influence must have spread to China and taken to

Japan.

Lunch is always an issue on these trips. If we go to a restaurant then we will take lot of time driving to and from such a restaurant, and then members always complain that it is difficult to eat two similar heavy meals in a day. So this time, same as we did in Turkey last year, we arranged our own lunch. We had asked all passengers to bring washable plates and glass for tea. We brought thepla, vada, chevdo, ganthia and tea flasks from London. Our lunch on this day was in a beautiful picnic area on the shores of a lake. We walked down to the lake, washed our feet and hands, and took photos on the rock.

Our next visit was to Nikko Falls where we had to go in an elevator going down to see the falls from so near that we could feel the splash of water from the falls. There were lots of pipes around the falls indicating some sort of irrigation system. That evening the meal was in a restaurant walking distance from the hotel. As it was raining we took umbrellas from the hotel. The guide took us there and then went home. But after dinner it was still raining and we walked back the way we had come but found the way through the shopping mall was closed. After lot of struggle to find our hotel, asking several people for guidance who did not understand English. After some running

around we met a young man who helped us to find the hotel. Next morning I got angry on the guide to leave us like that and told him it could have been disaster even if one member had got lost in that weather.

The group, with majority in their seventies, were very good at time keeping. Everyone was in the lobby quite before the decided time and we never had to wait for anyone. The morning drive to Mt Fuji was scenic and beautiful though there were strong winds and everyone was covered in winter clothes and scarves with the exception of me in just a shirt. We drove up the mountain up to the fifth station. After our lunch on lovely picnic spot we were told that the cableway ride was cancelled due to strong winds and instead we were

taken to Picasso museum. Spread over several acres of open ground with scattered modern buildings, the museum was a wonderful experience. The statutes in the open consisted of bronze, steel, globes, paintings etc. We spent long time walking around and appreciating each piece. This was followed by a short cruise on the lake which was nothing much to talk about.

Next morning was early wakeup and checkout. Our baggage was taken in a coach while we took the bullet train. The train was very long and clean and comfortable. Our journey from Tokyo to Kyoto, a distance of 500 kilometres, was covered in just 2 hours 15 minutes though one does not feel or notice the speed when sitting in the train. In Kyoto we had a different guide, but for the day only. His English was better than Tokyo guide but not much better. Our first visit was to a shrine followed by a visit to a water garden. We did lot of walking and we had hardly recovered from our jet lag. We all went to sleep early that night. Compared to Tokyo the hotel here was much better standard with large rooms and good breakfast.

Today we had a new guide, a former English teacher, whose English was much better and he gave lot of information also. Our first visit was to a bamboo forest and we had a good walk along the paths. The huge bamboo trees were fascinating. We visited a temple and a park. We had to check out next morning and our main baggage was to be

transferred to Osaka and we had to take only a small bag for overnight stay in Hiroshima. Next morning we took another bullet train to Hiroshima, the town which was devastated by the first ever atom bomb dropped to end the Second World War. We visited a shrine and then the Peace Memorial Park where the actual atom bomb was dropped. A building which was hit by the bomb but not totally destroyed is still standing. The Peace Park was so serene and peaceful, and reminded us of the horrors of the bomb. The park, the museum, the photographs and memorials gave a grave reminder of the horrors that took place and the local population endured. The museum had original photos of the damage caused, children and elders with burnt skin and clothes, dead people with charred

bodies and buildings burnt down to ashes was heart breaking to see. It was the most touching and emotional visit of our tour.

Next morning we took a train to Kobe for a sightseeing tour of Kobe and then proceed to Osaka. Kobe was destroyed by earthquake in 1985. We drove through the city and saw some very interesting and modern buildings. We came across a Jain temple and decided to visit the same. We made acquaintances and we were persuaded to go for tea to one house where besides tea we were shown a collection of pearl jewellery. Instead of following the itinerary, we were advised to do the cable ride and I asked the guide to make that change. The ropeway to the top of the mountain was wonderful with greenery all around, herb gardens on top of the mountain and overall a very satisfying visit. Some of the group walked down to the second level. Everyone agreed that this was the best program we had so far.

Our lunch turned out to be innovative and delicious by making a mixture of all snacks and making it tasty. Later we went to see a 4 kilometre bridge connecting Kobe to a small island. We all walked to the observation tower and enjoyed the scenery from that level. We drove to Osaka, checked in the hotel and then walked for our dinner through a busy Soho type of area with lots of people, neon lights everywhere, street shows and very lively

atmosphere. The restaurant was small and only enough spaces for our group but the service was good.

Next morning we visited Osaka castle followed by visit to Water Gardens – where there was no water and no garden. It was a very tall modern building where we had to take a lift and then very long escalators which took us to 40th floor with amazing scenes of Osaka. I am not sure why they were called Water Gardens, but the visit was worth it. After consulting the guide and the members, I cancelled visit to Aquarium to visit hot water baths. The guide was cooperative and honest. We did not have to pay for hot water baths as he offset it against the fees for the Aquarium. If he had asked for

the fees for hot water springs there was we would have agreed without argument. Hot water springs was a good experience. Ten men and eleven ladies decided to come – and reason for this hesitation was that inside the baths no clothing was permitted and this deterred many from joining. But it was a good experience and those who took part enjoyed it.

For lunch we bought some rolls and cheese as our stocks were depleting. Dinner was at the same restaurant and on this day the restaurant arranged for Japanese music and dancing. All enjoyed the program and many of our members joined in the dancing. It was wonderful farewell to Japan. Four members of the group were leaving us from here so farewells were exchanged on this final night in Japan.

I planned the trip in cooperation with a tour operator, and I was the group leader. From experience I knew tour manager did not have much responsibility and as such I suggested and became the tour manager on behalf of the travel company. As we were going so far and spending so much money I thought it would be best to add Korea to the itinerary to make the tour of a reasonable duration. Some thought Korea had nothing to offer and decided to do only Japan. Of course whatever payment I get for the duty would be paid to the Kendra and I pay full fare as

rest of the group. I found that being manager helped in many ways. I knew what the group wanted and I could talk with the guide directly and discuss any changes if necessary. In the past tours we had to go by the itinerary but this time we made changes as and where necessary and possible. At times the guide resisted but I was able to convince and make necessary alterations. In Tokyo we were able to change plans and go to see the show, which unfortunately was a disaster. We were able to do ropeway in Kobe which was an excellent experience. We arranged for hot water springs instead of the aquarium.

We woke up at 4.30 and left for airport at 6.00 to fly to Korea. The hotel refused to do any breakfast even though I asked for something very simple. Our itinerary

clearly said there will be no breakfast. While I was talking with reception on this subject the guide overheard me and came and offered that he can pay for breakfast. This was really very honest and touching as he did not have to do any

such thing. Osaka airport is built on a man-made island which is sinking though we were assured in the same breath that we had nothing to worry about as enough jacks were being put under the island to keep it floating. We arrived in Jeju island, which is south of the mainland, at 11.00 and had a bit of panic at the airport. There was no sign of the guide and I realised that I had not other contact numbers in case he did not turn up. But when I was in panic and worried he turned up. He had not been informed that we were coming at the international airport. He was waiting for us at the domestic airport.

Jeju Island is formed by a volcano. Our guide was young and spoke good English. But I also found that he was very helpful. We were first taken to a park created with unusual shaped rocks and stones created from lava. One rock was in the shape of a dragon and the guide explained the beliefs

that grew around that over the centuries. Our next visit was to a Teddy Bear museum which housed hundreds of teddy bears and other soft toys in all shapes and sizes and was quite fascinating to visit. It is too much to expect an Indian restaurant in an island with just over half a million people but we were surprised that dinner was at an Indian restaurant - but no wonder the standard and quality was not to satisfaction. Hotel also lacked in many basic amenities. While the hotel was modern building it was clear that planning lacked basic thinking. Bathroom did not have basic items and breakfast lacked simple items. After early morning wake up we were tired when we reached the hotel at a late hour, but we needed to purchase some items for lunch. The guide was very

cooperative and he went home and brought his car and took us to do the shopping at that late hour.

Next morning we visited a museum which was unusual and very interesting. It had paintings, props and other items with a 3D effect and gave an illusion if one is part of that. Everyone took lots of photos and one could possibly spend whole day at this museum. In my travels to so many countries I have never seen such a wonderful museum. Outside the building also there were so many props and statutes.

Our next visit was to a traditional historical village. What fascinated us all was that the cottage had small yard at the rear where pigs were kept, and the pigs would eat all human excretion - a wonderful idea when modern toilets did not exist and avoiding the trouble of disposing human excretion with the possibility of causing infection that could take lives. We were told that this was the reason why life expectancy on Jeju Island was much higher than on the mainland. Later we visited a mountain called Halla crater with some beautiful scenery. Three members of the group walked to the top of the crater.

Next morning we woke as normal and then took a flight to Wonju on the mainland. From the airport we went to Mt Sarok which is listed as one of the Seven Wonders. We visited a Buddhist temple and nearby there was a huge Buddha statute. In the temple we met monks from India and Nepal and they were happy to see us as we talked the same language. We went on a tower and the guide scared everyone by saying that the path leading to the tower was very steep, that there was no place to sit and half the members decided to sit in the coach. It was nothing like that. It hardly took few minutes to walk up the path and it had lovely scenery and places to sit. I had some strong words with the guide and made her pay us the fees of those who did not come. We then went to a

shopping mall and arranged our lunch there. One member of the group was celebrating his 79th birthday and we celebrated the same with cake. After lunch we went to a local street market where we had the opportunity to see some martial arts demonstration. Later we drove to Seoul and booked into the hotel.

We were nearing the end of our tour. On Saturday we were taken to a demonstration of making kimchi, a traditional Korean food, and all members were given a demonstration and everyone took part in making kimchi. We visited amethyst factory, a shopping mall and a local market. We also visited two palaces. The shopping mall had live dancing and music outside and while everyone was busy shopping I sat and enjoyed the show. The shopping mall was a building of ten storeys but I was surprised to notice that it had seven floors below the ground. Seoul is very congested and they have built lot of shopping malls below the ground especially around under passes built for crossing the roads.

On Sunday we had change of plans and we went to the demilitarized zone between south and North Korea. North Korea, we were told, have built many tunnels from the north to Seoul and only 4 have been found so far. The guide was worried that considering the age range of our group we might not walk, or if we did walk there might be some problems. After the strong talk following the visit to the tower she did not want to upset anyone. Surprisingly everyone walked in the tunnel. It was possible to walk straight in the beginning part but later one had to bend down to walk in a narrow passage but it was an experience though there was nothing exciting to see. We arranged our lunch and then walked around the huge grounds and complex of observation tower. A train engine which had been bombed

by the North Koreans was put up for display.

Monday was our final day of the tour. Three members were leaving early while rest of the group had a midnight flight. I had stressed on the travel agent that we must not be made to spend hours in the airport or doing nothing. Today was Buddha birthday and guide took us to a Buddhist temple walking distance from the hotel. The place was crowded with visitors, well decorated and the temple had a long queue to enter. We spent some time there without going inside the temple. After lunch we were taken to the shopping mall and I was told that we will have early dinner at 5.00 and will be taken to airport soon after. I protested. At first the guide resisted but later

I talked to the manager. Instead of us spending hours in the shopping mall the guide agreed to take us back to the Buddhist temple where we got the opportunity to go inside the temple which was worth it. The temple had a few huge gold Buddha statutes. From there we went back to the shopping mall as some members wanted to do some shopping. Opposite the mall there was an unusual shaped building which was being made into a museum. The guide suggested we should go and see it. It was very unusual type of building and we spent some time appreciating the architecture and finding our way around. We went for dinner at around 6.30 and we were dropped at the airport by 9.00 giving us just sufficient time to check in and board. So in the end it all worked

out well. Had it been a tour manager then perhaps we would have spent hours at the airport as we did on our trip to China.

Overall it was a good trip. Everyone was punctual. No one fell sick or there was no problem with any one that affected our sightseeing. Normally on such group trips it is fun to sit at night and enjoy but on this trip by the time we reached hotel everyone wanted to go to sleep so we had little of time for intermingling. We found that having light lunch was more satisfying and less time wasting. We also found that having one of us as manager allowed some flexibility and changes in itinerary as per the wishes of the group. I enjoyed planning the tour, leading as group leader and also acting as tour manager. I paid same fees as everyone else and £4000.00 I got paid as tour manager was given to Navjivan Vadil Kendra.

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