wine regions multi, wine & jazz, vint. 2 trk 3, melissa chavez
TRANSCRIPT
MMy original vision for Wine and Jazz magazine was to produce a publication that equaled and eventually surpassed the quality of my family’s multi-award winning Powerboat Magazine, which we published from 1968 through 2005. Although WAJ has yet to receive o� cial accolades from our publishing peers in the form of industry awards (we are relatively new on the scene after all!), the changes you see with Vintage 2, Track 3 represent another giant step closer to reaching that goal.
The � rst upgrades you’ve probably noticed are that our magazine is thicker and has a glued binding. We signi� cantly increased the number of pages by including more editorial and photos. I wanted to give you a magazine that looks, feels and reads more like a co� ee table book—a magazine you’ll want to display, enjoy at your own pace, show o� to your friends, and regularly refer to for more information about this perfect lifestyle combination.
You may recall Melissa Chavez, whose � rst editorial contribution to WAJ was last issue’s wine region story on Sonoma County. She did such a great job we not only invited her back, but augmented her writing responsibility � ve-fold. Looking forward, in every issue of WAJ, Melissa will bring us regional wine features for each of California’s “top � ve”: Sonoma,
Napa, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, and Temecula. In future issues, WAJ will be exploring other wine regions in California, Oregon, Washington, and New York, to name a few.
From our debut issue, Cameron Smith took the reins of our “Jazz Juice” column, giving us heaps of fun insights into his globe-trotting, jazz celebrity-� lled lifestyle. Thanks Cameron! I want to thank you for the rollicking ride. You are one cool dude and will be missed. After this fond farewell to Cameron, I am ecstatic to inform you we now have a new columnist on board. To downplay it a bit (then knock your socks o� !), she is one cool and musically talented artist: the legendary jazz vocalist, two-time Grammy-winner and Tony-winning stage actress, the great Dee Dee Bridgewater. I am thrilled that such an accomplished singer and actress has agreed to write for WAJ. Whew, I need to pause now to catch my breath.…
We’ve got something really good fermenting here! And, we’re getting close to developing the ideal blend of wine and jazz and writers and editorial and images to create what I hope will be a magazine that, not only stands out
creatively with our own unique look and voice, but stands head and shoulders above the rest. This is a challenging endeavor as, unlike other publications, we have two discerning audiences to inform and inspire—therefore, two magazine genres to compete in rather than one. This unique challenge is part of what makes WAJ so rewarding for me. The other part is the universally positive feedback and encouragement I get from both sides of the aisle—wine lovers of all stripes, along with jazz a� cionados, both in the business and fans.
Lastly, recognition must go out to a person who works quietly behind the scenes, yet is as vital to the quality of our � nal WAJ product as any of us. A special thank you to our copy editor, Diane Browning.
Enough said by me. Please enjoy our enhanced WAJ magazine!
~ MIKE NORDSKOG
LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER
the ideal � endPHO
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~ MIKE NORDSKOG
PUBLISHER’S PICK: Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 Beeson Ranch ZinfandelDee Dee Bridgewater Eleanora Fagan (1917-1959): To Billie With Love From Dee Dee
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apa Valley embodies all that is glamorous about the world of � ne wine. Extravagant architecture, formal gardens, and uninterrupted
rows of meticulously tended vines suggest that California’s spin on New World winemaking is not only tame, but a terribly civilized business.
Though it boasts a supersized reputation, in terms of actual size the Napa Valley is not nearly as large as it seems. Little more than ten percent the size of Bordeaux, the French winemaking region to which it is most often compared, Napa Valley is less than � ve miles across at its widest point and only 30 miles in length. Extending diagonally northwest to southeast, this legendary valley is delineated by the Mayacamas Mountains on the west and the Vaca Mountains to the east.
Climate and soil variation along this 30-mile stretch of terroir create a generous palette of wine � avors to please even the most � nicky artisan winemaker. The climate here is warm by day, especially along the northern sector of this valley which ends near the lively spa town of Calistoga. Heat-loving grapes like cabernet sauvignon and merlot � ourish here and continue to excel down the length of the valley. World class wines are crafted from grapes grown in the soils surrounding the wine town of Rutherford, only to be outdone by wines harvested from the rari� ed mountain vineyards rising up, up, and away from the valley � oor.
Venture to the southern terminus of the Napa Valley AVA, and it’s a di� erent story altogether. Here lies the much cooler Los Carneros district, a sub-appellation shared with neighboring Sonoma County. Even on the warmest summer evening, a sweater is a necessity in Carneros due to bracing winds and fog blowing inland o� the San Pablo Bay. In response to the chilly growing conditions, this sub-appellation of the Napa Valley is planted almost exclusively to cool-loving grapes that yield emphatic varietal expressions of chardonnay and pinot noir.
Napa trailblazersThe Napa Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) was
formed in 1981, although historical records reveal winemaking began in the early 19th century as missionaries and European settlers established their own roots in this stunningly beautiful valley. George Calvert Yount secured a Spanish land grant back in 1831, becoming its � rst white settler. The � rst commercial vineyard was planted by John Patchett in 1858. Soon thereafter, Charles Krug founded the � rst commercial winery in St. Helena, followed Schramsberg Vineyards, a Calistoga landmark immortalized in by Robert Louis Stevenson in his lively travel memoir, Silverado Squatters. H.W. Crabb, the botanist of the bunch, experimented with 400 varieties in pursuit of the perfect grapes (1868). There was Jacob and his brother Frederick Beringer in Spring Mountain (1876), Captain Gustave Niebaum’s Inglenook (1879), and Georges de Latour’s Beaulieu Vineyard estate near Rutherford (1900).
The Napa Valley rose to international acclaim in 1976 as a result of the “Judgment of Paris” blind tasting which pitted the best of French wines against California � nest vintages. In both the red and white wine categories, Napa Valley bottlings emerged victorious, leaving the French feeling quite blue, while a¡ rming what the Golden State vintners already knew in their hearts. Movie fans may want to revisit this stunning stateside victory as depicted in the recent indie � lm “Bottle Shock” (2008). Decades later, indignant French winemakers demanded a rematch. At “The Judgment of Paris” 30th Anniversary tasting, American wines once again took the top spots—� ve of them this time —again, all from the Napa Valley.
Certainly, Robert Mondavi deserves much of the credit for advancing the reputation of Napa Valley wines. An early supporter of technological advances, he created new brands and provided major philanthropic donations to the region. In 2007, the Culinary Institute of America inducted him into the Vintner’s Hall of fame. A year later, the Robert Mondavi Institute at University of California at Davis opened, just � ve months after his death at age 94.Background Photo: Carneros Winescape PHOTO: Tom Moyer
Napa Valley
An enigmatic lifestyleSmall communities like St. Helena and Oakville
dot the Napa Valley, where Ford pickups park com-fortably alongside Ferraris. A pervasive sophistication is
unmistakable, but guardians of the grape cannot a� ord to ignore make-or-break realities. While sleepy tourists are still counting sheep, local grape growers have already raced to redeem their future harvests threatened by frost.
Here, one can � nd multimillion-dollar resorts, a modern-day castle, decorative storefronts, a vintage wine train, or a 150-year-old barn under towering redwoods. There are top-rated restaurants, spas, world-class resorts, hot springs, and galleries displaying works by talented artists. When aromas of grilled meats and veggies mingle with vintage cabernet beckons, a quick stop at a winery suddenly becomes a day trip.
California’s Napa Valley is rife with opportunities to engage and indulge all the senses. Consider the brief overview of possibilities before planning your next visit (on the following page). Enjoy!
Carneros winescape
PHOTO: Tom Moyer
Small but mightyIt may come as a surprise that the Napa Valley accounts
for only � ve percent of the total United States vineyard acreage. From largest to smallest in volume, its grape varietals include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. Relative newcomers—sangiovese, syrah, petite sirah, cabernet franc, pinot noir, petit verdot and malbec—now collectively outnumber merlot vines. Most wines from this prestigious AVA retail between $30 and $50, but can easily ascend to hundreds of dollars per bottle. Not unlike framed masterpieces, Napa Valley’s “liquid art” is often collected as such.
According to Terry Hall, spokesperson for the Napa Valley Vintners Association, “Millennials are driving the American wine industry. They are the � rst generation to grow up with the Internet so they are information-savvy. They also grew up knowing terms, like ‘organic,’ ‘sustainable,’ and‘heirloom,’ and are wildly interested in the source of their products—food and wine.”
WITH SCENIC BEAUTY AND CLIMATE RIVALING THE FRENCH COUNTRYSIDE,
NAPA VALLEY REMAINS UNSURPASSED AS NORTH AMERICA’S PREMIER
LOCALE FOR THE CULTIVATION OF WINE GRAPES. IT’S ALSO THE MOST
VISITED, AND FOR A VERY GOOD REASON: SUPERLATIVE WINES.
Castello di Amorosa Winery turret in Calistoga, CA PHOTO: Jim Gateley
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CELEBRATING WINE AND JAZZ
Brannan’s GrillGreat food, award winning wine list
and live jazz
Calistoga: 707.942.2233
BrannansGrill.com
Downtown Jazz & Blues
Festival/ Blues in the Vineyards
November 1 (1-5 p.m.);
November 2 (12-4 p.m.)
Downtown venues and
participating wineries
Calistoga: 707.942.6333
Miner Family VineyardsWinery and cave tours by appointment,
Benedetto Guitars concert in August
Oakville: 800.366.WINE, MinerWines.com
Napa River Wine, Crafts
& Jazz FestivalCelebrating handcrafted arts, live jazz
music and wine
Napa: 707.257.0322
NapaWineAndCraftsFair.com
Robert Mondavi WineryExpansive mission-inspired winery,
art displays, open-air concerts
Oakville: 888.766.6328
RobertMondaviWinery.com
Silo’s Jazz ClubDinner, wine, and live jazz Wednesday
thru Saturday nights
Napa: 707.251.5833, SilosJazzClub.com
WINERIES
Castello di Amorosa Winery
A modern-day castle and winery
Calistoga: 707.967.6272
CastelloDiAmorosa.com
Hill Family Estate Winery
Heirloom BLT Bar and 2008 Sauvignon
Blanc Release Party in August
Yountville: 707.944.9580
HillFamilyEstate.com
Sterling VineyardsTour, art gallery, and aerial tram ride
with admission
Calistoga: 707.942.3345
SterlingVineyards.com
ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS
Artisan Wine ToursPersonalized luxury Napa Valley tours
Sonoma: 877.414.2021
ArtisanWineTours.com
Bonaventura Balloon Company
Napa Valley passenger fl ights
Napa: 800.FLY-NAPA
BonaventuraBalloons.com
Chardonnay Golf ClubSemi-private, 18-hole course meanders
through 150 acres of vineyard
Napa: 800.788.0136
ChardonnayGolfClub.com
Harvest StompHudson Vineyards in Carneros on
August 28, sponsored by Napa Valley
Grape Growers
Napa: 707.224.8644, NapaGrowers.org
Napa Valley Opera House
Constructed in 1879, 500 seats,
live concerts
Napa: 707.226.7372
NVOH.org
Napa Valley Wine TrainThree-hour, 36-mile trip in a 1915-17
Pullman dining car or 1947 Vista
Dome car
Napa: 800.427.4124
WineTrain.com
Oakville GroceryWines, picnic supplies and
specialty foods
Oakville: 707.944-8802
OakvilleGrocery.com
LODGING
Arbor Guest House Bed
& BreakfastGarden setting, three-course
breakfast, WI-FI, fi replace, Jacuzzi
Napa: 707.252.8144
ArborGuestHouse.com
Best Western Elm House Inn
Well-priced hotel with amazing cookies
and “Napa” ambience
Napa: 707.255.1831
Book.BestWestern.com
Napa River InnHistorical waterfront landmark with
all the modern amenities
Napa: 877.257.8500
NapaRiverInn.com
The Cottages of Napa Valley
Privacy, well appointed cottages, breakfast
baskets, Bouchon baked goods
Napa: 707.252.7810
NapaCottages.com
The Inn On FirstSan Francisco-style B&B, Cordon
Bleu-trained chef, dog-friendly
Napa: 866.253.1331
TheInnOnFirst.com
RESTAURANTS
ABC Bakery/Alexis Baking Company
Delicious breakfast and lunch,
decadent desserts
Napa: 707.258.1827
AlexisBakingCompany.com
Bistro Don GiovanniFresh pasta, brick oven pizza, terrace, views
Napa: 707.224.3300
BistroDonGiovanni.com
Tra VigneItalian-style Sunday brunch
St. Helena: 707.963.4444
TraVigneRestaurant.com
INFORMATION
Napa Valley Vintners Association
Non-profi t trade association
St. Helena: 707.963.3388
NapaVintners.com
Our Napa Valley Picks
Castello di Amorosa Winery art walls
PHOTO: Jim Gateley
3 guitars at Gargiulo Vineyards
PHOTO: Artisan Wine Tours
The Cottages of Napa Valley
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ave you ever wondered what the Napa Valley was like before its current chic and gentri� ed incarnation? The answer lies a mere 30-minute
drive west over the mountains. Once you drop down into Sonoma County’s Valley of the Moon, you’ll discover vineyards unfurling at a more leisurely pace among gently rolling hills punctuated by mossy ancient oaks that exude the solidity of the ages. The Sonoma Valley is a quiet, peaceful, and romantic place. Sound like the wine country of your dreams? In Sonoma Valley, it’s your dream come true.
There’s a compelling reason why Sonoma Valley is the real deal: it’s the birthplace of California winemaking. This is where it all began, folks, and the imprint of the region’s wine history is scattered all over the valley.
For starters, head on over to the City of Sonoma’s charming and historic Sonoma Plaza, a gathering place for the city’s many festivals and Tuesday farmers markets. Begin your tour at the Mission San Francisco Solano which anchors the northeast corner of the plaza. The last built and most northern outpost along California’s mission trail, when this structure was dedicated in 1824 it was blessed with sacramental wines made by Franciscan friars who planted their � rst vineyards here back in the early 1800s.
Decades later, the Mission’s proliferation of rootstock throughout Northern California made for another unseen blessing. The friars’ wine grapes were laying the foundation for an essential component of California’s agricultural economy. The importance of Sonoma Valley’s wine grapes was not lost on Agoston Haraszthy, a native of Hungary who wisely purchased a Sonoma parcel in 1856 and named it Buena Vista Winery the following year. Armed with 100,000 imported European vine cuttings, Haraszthy planted and grew both his vineyard and his legacy, which remain intact in the present-day reincarnation of the winery. For history bu� s, a self-guided tour of the historic Buena Vista Winery is a must, second only to a visit to nearby Bartholomew Park Winery. Once known as “The Castle,” this stunning old winery houses the Sonoma Valley’s History of Wine in America Museum, a fascinating collection of regional wine memorabilia.BACKGROUND PHOTO: Artist in Sonoma Valley by Robert Janover
Sonoma ValleyNATURAL BEAUTY, SMALL-TOWN CHARM, AND HISTORY ARE THE HALLMARKS OF SONOMA VALLEY.
LITTLE WONDER THEN WHY SO MANY POETS, ARTISTS, FARMERS, AND VINTNERS LIVE HERE—AND WHY
WORLD-WEARY SOULS FROM OTHER PLACES SO OFTEN WISH THEY DID, TOO.
H
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PHOTO: Sonoma Cty Tourism Bureau
Defined by diversityThe simple use of the name “Sonoma” often leads to
confusion in a wine growing region as large and scattered as Sonoma County. “There are actually three ‘Sonomas,’” explains Tina Luster of the Sonoma County Tourism Bureau. “One of is the City of Sonoma, located on the southwest section of the county. Another is Sonoma Valley, referring to the 17-mile sub-appellation o to the east and, � nally, there’s Sonoma County, which encompasses the town, neighboring towns, and the valley.”
The Sonoma Valley, encompassing the southeastern section of Sonoma County, is the largest of the four viticultural areas in the region. Sonoma Valley stretches from the populous county seat of Santa Rosa, southward to San Pablo Bay. The valley encompasses over 15,000 acres of fertile, loamy soil, but is also arid, receiving an annual average of only 29 inches of rain. The Sonoma Mountain and Mayacamas Mountain ranges also help shelter the valley from westerly fog and precipitation.
In the upper warmer locations, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon thrive. Midway below, sauvignon blank and merlot are grown. In the cooler areas, chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling and gewürztraminer make for excellent still and sparkling wines.
VisitingSonoma Valley o ers a colorful patchwork quilt of things to
do and see. Wine lovers, foodies, outdoor enthusiasts, and shoppers seeking relief from the same-old-same-old franchise scene will all � nd plenty to enjoy in this charming and unique part of wine country. Here, diversity harmonizes into a refreshingly unique
and enjoyable whole experience.
A regional highlight for readers of all stripes is the Jack London State Historic State Park, just minutes away from the Sonoma Plaza in the village of Glen Ellen. Surrounded by redwoods, � rs, and
oaks, visitors entering London’s well preserved stone cottage called “The House of Happy Walls” share an authentic experience while browsing the museum dedicated to his beloved “Beauty Ranch” in the Valley of the Moon. A lake, bathhouse, and ruins of the “Wolf House” nearby also draw many to stroll the trails of this
historic park site dedicated to one of America’s cultural icons.While in Glen Ellen, stop by the B.R. Cohn Winery and Olive
Oil Company to sample � ne wines and artisan olive oils pressed from fruit harvested from ancient picholine olive trees planted back in the 1870s. Music lovers may want to time their visit to coincide
with the winery’s annual Fall Music Festival, to be held this year on October 8-9. Proprietor Bruce Cohn, manager of the Doobie Brothers for 36 years, has not yet announced his upcoming line-up of artists, but last year’s star-studded event spotlighted Journey, Taj Mahal and, of course, his old pals the Doobie Brothers.
Venture further southeast and you’ll arrive at the sleepy wine town of Kenwood. Here, the � fth generation of a grape growing family operates the Kunde Family Estate, begun after their ancestors imported and planted grape cuttings from France’s Chateaux Margaux and La� te Rothschild in 1879. Drive a few miles further, and watch for the sign to Chateau St. Jean, a welcoming winery housed in a gracious old landmark mansion.
Foodies could spend days sampling every cuisine to be found in the region, where fresh produce is showcased in almost every o ering. Or, take a bit of Sonoma home with you. A chunk of mezzo secco jack from the Vella Cheese Company will surely provide a happy counterpart to that coveted bottle of local chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon.
There’s something for everyone here—whether book readings, golf, and jazz festivals, to sculpting, theater, or exploring newfound trails. Sonoma Valley’s towns, wineries, and homesteads seem to provide an artist’s palette for adorning vibrant swaths of green. Amidst such diversity, everyone can enjoy soaking up the intrinsic beauty and culture that is Sonoma. And who wouldn’t want to toast to that?
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Count Agoston Haraszthy
Russian River
PHOTO: George Rose
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CELEBRATING WINE AND JAZZ
Cline Cellars Dixieland Jazz & Wine FestivalA salute to jazz, wine, and food July 17
Sonoma: 707.940.4025
ClineCellars.com
Petaluma Wine Jazz & Blues FestivalGreat jazz and blues on Sonoma
County’s southside August 7
Petaluma: 707.769.9650
PetalumaWineJazzAndBluesFestival.org
Russian River Jazz & Blues Festival
Amazing jazz weekend, great food, wine
tasting on the river, September 11-12
Russian River: 510.655.9471
OmegaEvents.com
WINERIES
Buena Vista WineryHistoric stone winery, California’s fi rst
Sonoma: 800-926-1266
BuenaVistaCarneros.com
Bartholomew Park Winery
Stunning setting, wine history museum,
and exclusive winery-only wines
Sonoma: 707.935-9511
BartholomewParkWinery.com
B.R. Cohn Winery & Olive Oil CompanyPlenty of history, including rock
& roll greats
Glen Ellen: 800-330-4064
BRCohn.com
Kunde Family EstateSustainable winegrowing, eco-tours,
guided wine cave tours
Kenwood: 707.833.5501
Kunde.com
Chateau St. JeanGracious 1920s manse surrounded by
beautiful gardens
Kenwood: 707.833.4134
ChateauStJean.com
Tin Barn Vineyards No-fuss tasting room and warehouse
winery, where the wine is the star
Sonoma: 707.938.5430
TinBarnVineyards.com
ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS
‘Bubbles & Brunch’ at Estate RestaurantWeekly Sunday brunch from 10-3 pm with
a $3 Prosecco Bar
Sonoma: 707.933.3663
Estate-Sonoma.com
Sonoma Wine Country Weekend
Throughout Sonoma Wine Country
September 3-5
800.939.7666SonomaWineCountryWeekend.com
Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival
Patron’s Night Gala, festival with wine
tasting, food, art, Grape Stomp, local
bands, September 24-26
Sonoma: 707.996.2109
SonomaVintageFestival.org
LODGING
Beltane RanchGorgeous two-story ranch farmhouse
inn. Farm-fresh produce, gardens, views,
chickens
Sonoma: 707.966.6501
BeltaneRanch.com
Inn at SonomaClose to Sonoma Plaza, breakfast, wine,
hors d’oeuvres, cookies
Sonoma: 888.568.9818
InnAtSonoma.com
MacArthur PlaceFormer 1850s Burris-Good estate with
64 rooms, gardens and pool
Sonoma: 707.938.2929
MacarthurPlace.com
Sonoma ChaletEclectic, unpretentious wine country
cottages with light breakfasts
Sonoma: 707.938.3129
SonomaChalet.com
The Hidden Oak InnRestored 1914 Craftsman-style bungalow
with nightly wine tasting
Sonoma: 707.996.9863
HiddenOakInn.com
RESTAURANTS
Harvest Moon CaféSeasonal food based on availability of fresh
produce, al fresco dining on large patio
Sonoma: 707.933.8160
HarvestMoonCafeSonoma.com
LaSalette RestaurantContemporary Portuguese cuisine
Sonoma: 707.938.1927
Lasalette-Restaurant.com
SantéMichelin-rated restaurant at
Fairmont Mission Inn & Spa
Sonoma: 707.938.9000
Fairmont.com/Sonoma
Taste of the HimalayasA refreshingly fl avorful dinner
option in wine country
Sonoma: 707.996.1161
HimalayaNext.com
The Girl and the FigBrunch, cheese cart, and a
‘Rhone-Alone’ wine list
Sonoma: 707.938.3634
TheGirlAndTheFig.com
INFORMATION
Sonoma County Tourism Bureau
‘America’s premier wine, spa and coastal
destination’
Santa Rosa: 800.576.6662
SonomaCounty.com
Sonoma Valley Vintners &
Growers AllianceSonoma: 707.935.0803
SonomaValleyWine.com
Our Sonoma Valley Picks
Beltane RanchBuena Vista Winery
Cline Cellars Dixieland
Jazz & Wine Festival
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BACKGROUND PHOTO: Paso Robles vineyards by Paso Robles Vintners’ and Growers’ Association
“AN ESTIMATED 58 PERCENT OF PASO ROBLES WINE GRAPES ARE SOLD TO WINERIES OUTSIDE THE AREA,
MAKING THEM THE ‘SECRET INGREDIENT’ IN OTHER CALIFORNIA WINES.”
– PASO ROBLES WINE COUNTRY ALLIANCE
he pioneer spirit is very much alive and well in Paso Robles. Although cattle ranchers, almond growers and grain farmers were more prevalent here only a decade ago, their in� uence lingers
on in this colorful, up-and-coming wine appellation. But don’t let the rustic and unpretentious feel of this oak-studded region fool you. According to wine insiders, the Paso Robles AVA, one of California’s fastest growing wine regions, has “the right stu� ” to one day challenge the Napa Valley as our nation’s premier red wine producing region.
Established in 1983, the Paso Robles AVA—located equidistant from San Francisco and Los Angeles—is the true center of California’s Central Coast. Bounded to the north by the Monterey County line, sheltered by the Santa Lucia Mountains to the west, the boundary of this sprawling new wine region stretches past the remote outpost of Cholame—where a James Dean roadside memorial marks this notorious east-west highway intersection—before narrowing southward toward Santa Margarita. Today, the fact that just 26,000 acres of the 614,000 acre region have already been planted to wine grapes reveals the sleeping production potential of this gangly young wine region, blessed by nature with equally large reserves of quality.
Today, cabernet sauvignon is king among the 40 di� erent grape varietals grown in Paso Robles and vini� ed by its approximately 200 wineries. Other leading varieties are merlot, syrah, and zinfandel. In addition, the amount of acreage dedicated to Rhone varietals is on the rise, drawing fervent fans among self-proclaimed “Rhone Rangers.” According to Gary Eberle, Paso Robles AVA co-founder, “As Americans become more sophisticated, they’re branching out into Rhônes, Cal-Italian, and Spanish varieties. People are looking for new and interesting things, but cabernet, chardonnay, and pinot noir won’t be replaced. With the proliferation of new labels and marketing, it’s hard. You have to make good wine.”
Modern wine pioneersBeginning in the 1960s, a new wave of pioneers
sparked the wine industry. Leading the charge in Paso Robles was Dr. André Tchelistche� , who planted the � rst chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir vines. Following his lead were more grape growers and winemakers: Bob Young, Herman Schwartz and Gary Eberle, Dave Caparone, Treana Winery and Chateau Margene among them.
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Eberle Winery
Castoro Cellars gardens
It is Gary Eberle who is credited with planting the region’s rst syrah wines. In 1984, this producer’s leadership was obvious when his winery’s cabernet sauvignon accompanied President Ronald Reagan’s historic six-day visit to President Li Xiannian in China. Arnold Schwarzenegger followed suit by serving Eberle wine when President George W. Bush visited Southern California. For all the fanfare, Gary Eberle readily lauds both youthful and seasoned vintners in his own “who’s who” of Paso Robles. A genuine world apart from executive winemaker rock stars, these Paso neighbors are quick to share a glass, viticultural know-how, or even a tractor, long after the day is done.
“Tom Meyers at Castoro Cellars is truly outstanding. Bill She� er (Halter Ranch) is another,” Eberle insists. “Jason Haas (Tablas Creek) and Austin Hope (Hope Family Wines) are two guys I’m really impressed with. Jason’s dad, Robert, was an icon when I was just starting. He’s turning out some really nifty wines. Ken Volk, L’Aventure, Villicana, and Opolo make spectacular wines. So do Paul Hoover (Still Waters Vineyards), Calcareous, Saxum, and Vic Roberts (Victor Hugo). Vic’s the most underrated. He’s always been a good winemaker, and he has no ego. Robert Nadeau turned out to be a super talent, and Cass Winery … wow! They all make really great wine. Paso Robles doesn’t have to play second ddle to anyone,” Eberle says with a smile. “We can be really proud of what we make.”
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True terroir and diversityOne de ning feature of the Paso Robles AVA is the Templeton
Gap, a series of seven passes on Paso’s Westside. Fog and afternoon breezes wind through these corridors, funneling relief where 50-degree spikes can swell thermometers by mid-afternoon. “There’s a misconception that the hottest vineyards are on the Eastside and the coldest are on the Westside. That’s not true,” explains Gary Eberle, who says plenty of cooling breezes � ow in from Templeton Gap, as “it comes whistling through” his Paso Robles vineyards o� Highway 46 East. “The coldest climate, in fact, is in Santa Margarita. No one district is especially unique. It’s all unique!” Vintner Steve Cass couldn’t agree more. “There’s no
stop sign for those breezes at Highway 101 (which divide west and east). Westside properties signi cantly north or south of the Gap receive even less of its bene t. Since it’s primarily west-to-east breezes that fan out, the further inland it comes.”
“The best word to describe Paso Robles is diversity,” says Joel Peterson of Hope Family Wines. “We can grow a vast array of grapes and make really exceptional wines. Many di� erent varieties grow well here. That diversity is our biggest strength.”
“With eleven de ned microclimates that transcend our region, it’s less of a story of east and west and more a story of true terroir and diversity,” observes Christopher Taranto of the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance. “There are 30 di� erent soil series across the Paso Robles AVA. That quality—combined with the long growing season, large diurnal temperature swing, and di� erent microclimates—a� ords us the ability to create a multitude of di� erent wines that cannot be pigeon-holed into one de nable category. In Paso Robles, there’s so much for the wine lover to discover while visiting.”
Why not pull out your travel planner and discover Paso Robles for yourself … before the crowds arrive. To get you started, on the following page are a few suggestions for things to do and see in this wonderfully laid-back corner of California wine country.
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CELEBRATING WINE AND JAZZ
Castoro CellarsAward-winning wines. Intimate, starlit
concerts among the vines; Concerts
this season: Café Musique, Peppino
D’Agostino, Karla Bonoff, Kenny Edwards
Templeton: 805.467.2002
CastoroCellars.com
D’Anbino Vineyards & Cellars
Winemaking musicians with live music
year-round
Paso Robles: 805.227.6800, DAnbino.com
WINERIES
Caparone WineryItalian varietal specialists. Father and
son are winemakers by day, Usonia Jazz
Band musicians by night
Paso Robles: 805.467.3827, Caparone.com
Eberle WineryAmong Top 10 medal award-winning
U.S. wineries. Winemaker Dinner in
the Caves, October 15
Paso Robles: 805.238.9607
Eberlewinery.com
Hunt CellarsColonial-style wine tasting room
Paso Robles: 805.237.1600
HuntWineCellars.com
Sculpterra Winery & Sculpture Garden Family estate winery. Giant granite
sculptures, picturesque landscape
Paso Robles: 888.302.8881
Sculpterra.com
Tobin James CellarsAward-winning wines, restored
stage coach stop
Paso Robles: 805.239.2204, TobinJames.com
Victor Hugo WineryTempleton area winemaker with
a reputation for excellence
Templeton: 805.434.1128
VictorHugoWinery.com
ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS
80th Annual Pioneer Day Parade
and CelebrationSaturday, October 9; Free activities:
old-fashioned parade, bean feed in
City Park, antique/classic cars, gazebo
concert, kid’s pet show, more
Paso Robles: 805.238.2038
PasoRoblesPioneerDay.org
California Mid-State Fair
July 21 - August 1; Top-notch live concerts
and county fair, Jazz Night, Wine Plaza
805.239-0655 or 800.909.3247
MidStateFair.com
Harvest Wine WeekendOctober 15-17; Winery-hosted activities;
130 wineries, 150 events
Paso Robles: 800.549.9463
PasoWine.com
Jack Creek FarmsFifth-generation Barlogio family-run
farm, country store, bakery
West Templeton: 805.238.3799
JackCreekFarms.com
The Wine LineFlexible ‘hop on, hop off’ tour to 60 wineries
Paso Robles: 805.610.8267
HopOnTheWineLine.com
The Wine WranglerWine tour packages with knowledgeable
guides
Paso Robles: 805.238.5700
TheWineWrangler.com
LODGING
Adelaide InnValue meets quality
Paso Robles: 805.238.2770
AdelaideInn.com
Best Western Black Oak Motor LodgeNear Margie’s Diner and fairgrounds
Paso Robles: 805.238.4740
BestWesternBlackOak.com
Hotel ChevalEquestrian-inspired luxury downtown
Paso Robles: 886.522.6999
HotelCheval.com
JUST Inn Bed & Breakfast at
Justin Vineyards & Winery
Exquisite wine country suites, fi ne dining
Paso Robles: 805.238.6932
JustinWine.com
La Bellasera Hotel & Suites
Luxury boutique hotel, Enoteca
Restaurant & Bar; Monthly concerts
in an intimate setting
Paso Robles: 805.238.2834
LaBellasera.com
RESTAURANTS
ArtisanUnique approach to the American Bistro
Paso Robles: 805.237.8084
ArtisanPasoRobles.com
Bistro LaurentCasual elegance, Country French cuisine
Paso Robles: 805.226.8191
BistroLaurent.com
Hoover’s Beef PalaceRanch-style breakfasts and décor to match
Templeton: 805.434.2114
Il Cortile RistoranteRustic Italian with quality ingredients
Paso Robles; 805.226.0300
IlCortileRistorante.com
Villa Creek RestaurantRancho Mission Cuisine, Villa Creek
Cellars wines
Paso Robles: 805.238.3000
VillaCreek.com
INFORMATION
Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
Appellation, winery and events information
Paso Robles: 800.549.9463
Experience Paso Robles
Directory of things to see and do
Paso Robles: 888.988.7276
TravelPaso.com
Our Paso Robles Picks
Hotel ChevalDowntown
Paso Robles PHOTO: PRVGA
Castoro Cellars’
John Jorgenson Quintet
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BACKGROUND PHOTO: Temecula Valley Vineyards at Sunset
f you aren’t already familiar with this rising star—located in the southwest corner of California’s Riverside County, an hour from
San Diego and a mere half-hour east of the Paci� c Ocean—that’s probably because Temecula is among the newest on California’s growing list of wine appellations.
Because of the Temecula Valley’s proximity to the sea, its vineyards bene� t from warm, dry days cooled at night by brisk sea breezes � owing through the Rainbow Gap and other points of entry carved out of the coastal mountain range. In fact, Temecula’s dramatic diurnal temperature swings closely mimic the grape-growing conditions in Napa Valley. Little wonder then there are approximately 3,000 acres already planted, with plans for more in the future.
Similarities in climate aside, it is the unique soils that anchor and nourish the vines that make wines from Temecula so unique. Here, decomposed granite provides distinction for fruit grown in naturally well drained soils. Local winemakers believe that the presence of red clay, dark loam, and sandy components lend further complexity to the grape. Situated at an average elevation of 1,500 feet, Temecula grapes � ourish, happily free of the threat of mold until harvest.
A rich history, steeped in sun and graniteAlthough literal translations vary, Temecula is derived
from the Indian word, “Temecunga,” meaning “place of the sun” or “where the sun breaks through the mist.” The surrounding hillsides were once home to the Temecula tribe as early as 900 A.D. The various cultural settlements that stretched clear to the coast were all known as “Luisenos,” as many had become subject to in� uence by nearby Mission San Luis Rey.
Trappers, hunters and explorers accessed several area trails between 1820 and 1846, which later became the
root source of the Southern Emigrant Trail. Historical records, such as � eld surveyor’s notes, newspapers, travelers’ journals, diaries, legal records, maps, and photographs help corroborate their locations.
If those ancient trails could talk, one may imagine the stories they could reveal from society’s growing pains: California Gold Rush discoveries in 1848, the Butter� eld Overland Mail route between San Francisco and St. Louis, Civil War soldiers assigned to their posts, the in� ux of railroad transportation before the turn of the century, and thriving growth as a working ranch town. Today, modern-day counterparts soldier through one of these trails on a less treacherous commute: Highway 79 South.
An appellation is bornIn 1968, Vincenzo and Audrey Cilurzo established the
� rst commercial scale vineyard (now Bella Vista Winery), while Brookside Winery began its own vineyard plantings. A year later, Callaway Vineyard and Winery was established, followed by Mount Palomar in 1975. Nearly two-dozen wineries followed. By 1984, the Temecula AVA was o¢ cial; a decade later, the appellation was renamed the Temecula Valley AVA, which now encompasses 33,000 acres.
Planted acreage includes chardonnay, merlot, sauvignon blanc, viognier, syrah, and pinot gris grapes. Cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, and pinot noir also thrive along with smaller percentages of other varietals. The wineries, about three-dozen and growing, are an easy drive from the center of town. From large-scale operations to smaller, privately owned boutique wineries, the open spaces around the area enable many of the vineyards to be close by and accessible.
One of the smaller, well-established wineries is Palumbo Family Vineyards & Winery, run by Nicholas and his wife, Cindy. Their 13-acre estate produces 2,500 cases per year of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA HAS LONG BEEN THE MAINSTAY OF AMERICAN WINEMAKING FOR MANY AN AFICIONADO.
AMONG THE NEWEST OF WINE APPELLATIONS IS TEMECULA VALLEY, TUCKED IN THE CORNER OF RIVERSIDE COUNTY,
AN HOUR FROM SAN DIEGO AND JUST THIRTY MINUTES FROM THE PACIFIC OCEAN. WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT THAT
THIS NOSTALGIC LITTLE COUNTRY TOWN WOULD EMERGE TO GIVE THE SUPERSTARS A SERIOUS RUN FOR THE GOLD?
Temecula ValleyI
sangiovese, plus a new block of viognier and syrah. Nicholas is a big believer in what he finds are “two basic ingredients in making fine wines—the fruit itself and the barrels they age in.”
Phil and Carol Baily are the owners of Baily Vineyard & Winery. These modern-day Temecula winery pioneers have crafted estate wines from vineyards planted in 1982 and currently produce 5,000 cases annually. Specializing in red Bordeaux varieties, their efforts have yielded an impressive array of gold medals from State Fair competitions that include California, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Orange County, as well as the San Francisco Wine Competition. Regardless of the accolades, Phil doesn’t take himself too seriously. He attests, “So what makes a good wine and what makes a bad wine? Basically, it’s simple. There are really only two things to consider,” he says. “A good wine is a wine that smells good with no disagreeable odors, a wine that is smooth in the mouth, and a wine that leaves a pleasing and lingering aftertaste.”
Want to pull out all the stops in wine country? No problem. Temecula knows how to do fancy without the pretense at South Coast Winery Resort and Spa. The Grapeseed Spa and Villa accommodations are first-rate. But beyond the grand fountain entrance and rustic-beamed ceilings, a statuesque bobcat also provides a memorable tasting room welcome. Beyond pleasant décor, South Coast possesses a dizzying array of nearly 1,000 regional and international awards for their wines in only six year’s worth of production, with two dozen awards in 2008, alone. To top it off, South Coast was awarded the distinction of “Best Winery in California” in 2009, its second consecutive year to win this honor.
Owned by Jim Carter, wines from South Coast Winery’s Wild Horse Peak vineyard speak volumes. Here, afternoon breezes wield their way through vineyards of largely syrah and sangiovese grapes, which helps to produce healthy berries for irresistible wines for 50,000 cases. Not jaded by success, Jim still takes a simple, but refreshingly enthusiastic approach to wine grape cultivation: “All we do as a farmer is we work with what we know the grape is trying to do, and then we guide it to get the very best fruit that we can get to make our wine.” Master winemaker Jon McPherson and winemaker Javier Flores share a similar philosophy. Jon says, “It’s about letting the grapes speak. Javier and I simply listen and then carefully nurture the process.”
Preserving Old Town Temecula “Old Town” Temecula originally served as a supportive hub for
Vail Ranch, an 87,000-acre cattle and agricultural operation from 1904 to 1964. Later, the community experienced a revitalization that initially began in the 1960s, but proceeded in earnest in the 1980s. A sense of history has been integral to what has become a rapidly growing and thriving community of more than 100,000 residents. Careful planning has prioritized centrally located access to performing arts, historical and children’s museums, downtown small businesses, and neighborhood restaurants. A large-scale civic center construction project is in the works, geared to meet the needs of a population that has doubled over the last decade.
A walk through town is pleasant, and one is challenged to tell new construction from old. The City Council offered incentives for business owners to create storefronts that look a century or two old, even up close. When hunger strikes, locals and visitors enjoy old-fashioned juicy burgers, real-deal milkshakes, root beer floats, and house wine by the glass at Mad Madeline’s Grill on Front Street, where 18 hamburger choices and indecision collide. Water misters also provide welcome summertime comfort during the wait for half-pound Blue Cheese Burgers with bacon, Texas Burgers with grilled pastrami, and Buffalo Burgers. There’s even a dog-friendly patio, ideal for travelers with man’s best friend. At Public House, generous eight-ounce pours of red, white, or sparkling wines accompany buttermilk-soaked calamari steak strips and Pile O’ Pork Shanks. If there’s room for dessert, a decadent S’More Brownie or farm-fresh Berries, Cake ’N’ Cream might do the trick. Add live music, a flickering fire on the patio, a harvest moon, and you have one pleasant sensory overload.
There’s much to do in the Temecula wine region in summer, fall, and year-round. Music lovers can groove to eight bands in three locations at the Temecula International Jazz Festival, go hot air ballooning or golfing, visit antique shops and malls, or simply enjoy the clippety-clop of horse-drawn carriage rides through the vineyards. The variety only adds to all the fun.
Meanwhile, vintners at wineries large and small seem to share a collective approach to keeping winemaking enjoy-able and uncomplicated. If this translates to great wine, Temecula is a region that’s sure to become more avidly pursued in the years to come.
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Celebrating Wine and Jazz
baily’s Fine diningCalifornia cuisine in the heart of Old
Town. Live music on weekends
Temecula: 951.676.9567
OldTownDining.com
Falkner WineryWinery, restaurant, weekend jazz concerts
Temecula: 951.676.8231
FalknerWinery.com
Keyways Vineyard & Winery
“Wine Down Fridays” - mellow music,
wine and dinner
Temecula: 877.539.5297
KeywaysWine.com
thornton Winery“Champagne Jazz” concert series
Temecula: 951.699.0099
ThorntonWine.com
Wineries
longshadow ranchHorse-drawn carriage wine tasting trips
951.587.6221LongshadowRanchWinery.com
Miramonte WineryHip vibe with live music on Fri/Sat,
from 7-10 p.m.
Temecula: 951.506.5500
MiramonteWinery.com
Palumbo Family Vineyard
& WineryIntimate, family-run vineyard & winery
Temecula: 951.676.7900
PalumboFamilyVineyards.com
robert renzoni Vineyards
Tasting room featuring Italian style
wine portfolio; Picnic grounds
Temecula: 951.302.8466
RobertRenzoniVineyards.com
stuart CellarsFamily 40-acre estate vineyard with
360-degree views
Temecula: 888.260.0870, StuartCellars.com
Wilson Creek WineryHome of the award-winning Almond
Champagne
Temecula: 951.699.9463
WilsonCreekWinery.com
aCtiVities and eVents
temecula Valley international
Jazz FestivalHonoring Ella Fitzgerald on July 9-11, 2010
951.678.2517TemeculaJazzFest.com
‘taste of Winemaking’ seasonal seminarsJuly 24, 2010 and October 23, 2010
Callaway Vineyard and Winery
951.676.4001, CallawayWinery.com
Peltzer Pumpkin FarmsOpen daily: September 18 to October
31, 2010; Mini-railroad tides, pony rides,
petting farm, tractor collection, pig
races, and pumpkins!
951.695.1115, PeltzerFarms.com
temecula Outdoor Quilt show
October 2, 2010; Hundreds of quilts
displayed in Old Town
PMB 435, 27475 Ynez Road, Temecula,
CA 92591ValleyOfTheMistQuilters.com
a grape escape balloon adventure
Year-round excursions, weather
permitting; Sip Wilson Creek Winery
Almond Champagne from mid-air!
800.965.2122, HotAirTours.com
the grapeline Wine Country shuttle888.894.6379, GoGrape.com
lOdging
south Coast Winery resort & spa
Luxurious villas, full-service spa,
restaurant, winery
866.994.6379, WineResort.com
temecula Creek innRelaxed and spacious, with sweeping
golf greens
877.517.1823, TemeculaCreekInn.com
inn at Churon WineryElegant French Country chateau and winery
951.694.9070, InnAtChuronWinery.com
Pechanga resort & entertainment CenterLargest casino resort in California/
concert venue
888.732.4264, Pechanga.com
restaurants
Meritage at CallawayAl fresco, vineyard view dining featuring
Tapas menu
Temecula: 951.587.8889
CallawayWinery.com
smokehouse restaurant at Ponte
estate WineryGrape wood-fired food, small-batch
wines, vineyard views
951.252.1770, PonteWinery.com
Mad Madeline’s grillBurgers, buffalo, and pork ribs
877.805.6653, MadMadelinesGrill.com
the great Oak steakhouse
Angus beef and more than 900
wine selections
951.770.8507, Pechanga.com
temecula Pizza Company
Inventive, fresh-crust pizzas, hot
sandwiches, wines
951.694.9463 TemeculaPizzaCompany.com
inFOrMatiOn
temecula Valley Convention
and Visitor’s bureau951.491.6085, TemeculaCVB.com
temecula Valley Winegrower’s
association800.801.9463, TemeculaWines.org
Our Temecula Valley Picks
Stuart Cellars vista
Old Town Temecula Gateway
Live music every
Friday & Saturday night
at Miramonte Winery
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Santa Maria Valley & Sta. Rita Hills
f you’re looking for a truly “no-frills” wine getaway, one that’s the real deal—no pinky � ngers posing in mid-air, no scents of framboises lurking in your
wineglass, no menus with ingredients you’ve never heard of, no limos or Ferraris, and not a franchise in sight—then get thee to the “far side” of Santa Barbara County.
Instead of taking the turn-o� for Santa Ynez, keep heading north to visit the sub-appellations of Santa Maria Valley and Sta. Rita Hills, where you’ll discover a refreshingly unpretentious slice of California wine country, along with chardonnays and pinot noirs that are, hands-down, as good or better than many French Burgundies selling at twice the price.
Continue north to Santa Maria ValleyIt’s the lay of the land that makes this region so unique. Unlike
all other coastal valleys in California, instead of running north-south, the Santa Maria Valley runs directly west-east. Fog and wind pour in freely from the sea across this broad and open inland plain, sweeping across the City of Santa Maria and beyond, blanketing this AVA which encompasses 80,000 acres of vineyard potential.
Established in the early 1980s, this AVA rises from elevations barely above sea level near the Santa Maria River to as high as 3,000 feet at Tepusquet Peak. Toward the west, the valley receives copious morning fog and predictable afternoon winds, which blow well into the eastern part of the region to cool hotter terrain during occasional summer temperature spikes. Modest rainfall provides for more hang-time on the vine, allowing concentrated � avors to develop, a real qualitative advantage for the rows of mostly chardonnay and pinot noir planted in this region. Although the area is classi� ed as Climate Region I, rivaling Champagne in France and Rhine in Germany, a few Climate Region II conditions may be found further inland.
The oldest, largest, and most widely respected vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley is Bien Nacido Vineyards which grows chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot blanc syrah, and merlot. This vast
I
BACKGROUND PHOTO: Sta. Rita Hills
IT MAY COME AS A SURPRISE TO FANS OF THE
HIT FILM “SIDEWAYS” THAT ALL WINES FROM
SANTA BARBARA DO NOT HAIL FROM SANTA
YNEZ. UP THE ROAD APIECE, GREEN CARPETS
OF GRAPE VINES QUIETLY COEXIST WITH
SLOPING RANCHLANDS, ANCIENT RED OAKS,
AND MILES OF UNSPOILED EARLY CALIFORNIA
BEAUTY. IN PLACES SO REMOTE THAT CITY
SLICKERS CALL THEM “THE BACK OF BEYOND,”
WINE GRAPES HAVE BEEN GROWING WITHOUT
RED CARPET FANFARE FOR DECADES.
Santa Barbara Mission hallwayPHOTO: Anders Illum
operation sets a high standard for local wine grapes, and numerous wineries scattered throughout the region—from the San Rafael Mountains to the Santa Maria Mesa—line up to buy its ultra-premium fruit. The vineyard’s first plantings hailed from the early rancheros established in 1857. A century later, the fifth-generation Miller Family bought this acreage and neighboring property to restore the original Rancho Tepusquet. It was the Millers who named the property “Bien Nacido,” a Mexican expression akin to “born with a silver spoon.”
One of the oldest wine producers is Foxen Winery & Vineyard, established in 1985 by Bill Wathen and Dick Doré on the historic 2000-acre Rancho Tinaquaic. Among the first to plant vines in the 1970s, they continue growing chardonnay, syrah, and cabernet franc on their small, hillside vineyard. Their newest offerings include Bordeaux and Cal-Italian style wines which augment their traditional pinots, chardonnays, and Rhone-style blends.
Certainly no expense is spared in the vineyard or cellar at Cambria under the direction of proprietress Barbara Banke. Cambria specializes in wines made from 100% estate-grown grapes harvested from vines anchored in the unique soils of the Santa Maria Bench. Cambria’s handsome and comfortable tasting room is open daily. Be sure to sample Cambria’s Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, which offers an exceptional quality-price ratio, along with many limited edition wines sold only at the winery.
Before leaving this area, once ruggedly picturesque cowboy country populated by Basque and Portuguese ranchers (many of those who remain are steadfast in their preference for speaking their own local idiom), do yourself a favor and watch for a roadside stand selling local strawberries —the most tender and aromatic, same-day picked strawberries imaginable.
Head for the Sta. Rita Hills Established in 2001, this sub-appellation was previously
known as the Santa Rita Hills AVA until 2006, when the slight name change came at the behest of Vina Santa Rita, a major wine producer in Chile concerned about losing its thunder as a brand. Sandwiched between Buellton, a pit-stop along Highway 101, and blue collar Lompoc along the coast road, this region offers few amenities to the visitor. But, it does offer rapturously fine wines worthy of even the most demanding Burgundy connoisseurs.
Weather here is the coldest of the cold, and many growers shy away from such marginal climatic conditions. Maritime fog and breezes blow in from the sea through an expansive corridor that tunnels between the northern La Purisima and Santa Rosa Hills. Both the Santa Ynez River and Santa Rosa Road run parallel across the southern portion, where vineyards cluster in the lower elevations. These coveted microclimates make ideal conditions for growing ultra-premium chardonnay, pinot noir, and syrah, along with smaller amounts of pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, grenache, and viognier.
Be sure to check out the wines by Fiddlehead, Sea Smoke, and numerous other small producers in this region of artisan-crafted wines. Not all wineries offer daily tasting, so you may want to call ahead. But in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, odds are good that you’ll actually get to meet the winemaker and even share a glass with him or her in an unhurried pace with zero pretension. Here, vintners tend to let the wine and the area’s natural beauty do the talking. Small wonder why almost everyone who visits comes back for more.
Here, it is alma, explains Jim Fiolek, director of the Santa Barbara County Vintner’s Association. “It’s a Latin word, meaning to ‘nourish or incite the spirit.’ I like that. When you look up the hills, there’s nothing grand, yet there’s something great. It’s this overwhelming force you’re drawn into. One can see why the Chumash Indians held this land in such reverence.”
Speaking of reverence, nothing in this region, not even its stellar wines, are held in higher esteem than Santa Maria-style BBQ, perfectly seasoned slabs of melt-in-your-mouth tri-tip served with another regional specialty, silky smooth pinquinto beans—ahhh! It’s all served at its peak of perfection at the Hitching Post—with two locations to choose from, in Buellton or coastal Casmalia.
Where to stay during your visit? A posh sanctuary awaits you at the Fess Parker Inn and Spa in nearby Los Olivos. But if you’re feeling wacky enough for a fantasy retreat, check out one of the kitschy theme rooms—your choice of Gypsy, Pirate, King Tut, Roman, or French—at The Victorian Mansion in the old stagecoach stop town of Los Alamos, a charming rural village that hearkens back to another era.
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CELEBRATING WINE AND JAZZ
Rideau VineyardIris Rideau’s New Orleans jazz roots
defi ne this historical landmark tasting
room, with live jazz or blues on
weekends.
Solvang: 805.688.0717
RideauVineyard.com
WINERIES
Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards
Founded by veteran vintner
Richard Sanford; sustainable
practices in organic vineyard
Buellton: 805.688.9090
AlmaRosaWinery.com
Foxen Winery & Vineyard
One of the oldest Santa Maria Valley
vineyards; solar-powered operation
Santa Maria: 805.937.4251
FoxenVineyard.com
Cambria Winery & Vineyards
Estate-grown pinot noir,
chardonnay, syrah
Santa Maria: 888.339-9463
CambriaWines.com
Richard Longoria WinesWine tasting in the garden in
downtown Los Olivos
Los Olivos: 805.688.0305
LongoriaWine.com
Fiddlehead CellarsPinot noir specialists, plus
sauvignon blanc
Lompoc: 805.742.0204
FiddleheadCellars.com
ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS
California Wine Festival
Old Spanish Nights, Sunset Rare and
Reserve Wine Tasting, Beachside
Wine Festival
July 15-17Santa Barbara: 866.273.4148
CaliforniaWineFestival.com
Chumash Casino ResortCasino and Four Diamond resort, live
concert entertainment
Santa Ynez: 800.CHUMASH
ChumashCasino.com
LotuslandTruly inspirational botanic garden of
exotic and native plants on 37 acres,
garden shop, informative docents
provide two-hour walking tours
Santa Barbara: 805.969.9990
Lotusland.org
Old Spanish Days Fiesta
August 4-8
Celebrates the history and culture
of the American Indian, Spanish,
Mexicans and early settlers.
Free and paid events: arts, crafts,
fi esta foods, music, dancing, horse
shows, rodeos, carnivals
Santa Barbara: 805.962.8101
OldSpanishDays-Fiesta.org
Old Mission Santa Barbara
‘Queen of the Missions’ was built in 1786
Santa Barbara: 805.682.4713
SantaBarbaraMission.org
Sustainable Wine ToursExtensive tour services of Santa
Barbara appellation area wineries
Santa Barbara: 805.698.3911
SustainableVine.com
LODGING
Fess Parker Inn & SpaCountry elegance. Each room
decorated by Mrs. Parker.
Los Olivos: 800.446.2455
FessParker.com
The Victorian MansionFantasy-themed rooms in an
old-fashioned village
Los Alamos: 808.344-1300
TheVick.com
The Ballard InnCharming country bread and breakfast
in wine country near Santa Ynez
Ballard: 805.688.7770
BallardInn.com
RESTAURANTS
Hitching Post Restaurants, I & II
Real-deal Santa Maria-style BBQ and
worth the drive
Casmalia (the original!) 866.879.4088
HitchingPost1.com
Buellton: 805.688.0676
HitchingPost2.com
Ellen’s Danish Pancake House
Where the locals go to enjoy breakfast
anytime. Huge crepe-like pancakes to
twelve-egg omelets.
Buellton: 805.688.5312
272 Avenue of the Flags, Buellton
Far Western Tavern‘Home of the Famous Bull’s Eye Steak;’
authentic Santa Maria Valley red oak BBQ
Guadalupe: 805.343.2211
FarWesternTavern.com
Trattoria GrappoloCountry regional cuisine by Italian chefs:
Leonardo, Alfonso, and Giorgio Curti
Santa Ynez: 805.688.6899
TrattoriaGrappolo.com
INFORMATION
Santa Barbara County Vintners’ AssociationSanta Ynez: 805.688.0881
SBCountyWines.com
Our Santa Maria Valley & Sta. Rita Hills Picks
The Pavilion at Lotusland
PHOTO: J. Brew
‘Billy Goat’ Merlot grows in Solvang
PHOTO: Travis S. PH
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