wine journal may/june 2016
DESCRIPTION
Wine Journal is a bimonthly wine publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits, Florida's largest family-owned wine and spirits retailer.TRANSCRIPT
wine journalMay/June 2016
A B C F I N E W I N E & S P I R I T S W I N E M A G A Z I N E
Cava cocktails might be your summer sip!
Secrets to a flawless
cheeseboard
Must love dogs (to work at Shannon Ridge)
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The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.
Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!
Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8. Allie Smallwood Editor [email protected] Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor [email protected] OUR WINE EXPERTS:
Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor
Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor
Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor
Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor
Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor
Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor
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Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountry. We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.
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The dogs of Shannon Ridge are as cute as they are essential. Learn the wine tasting basics! Region spotlight: Chile & Argentina These wines are in their prime, so sip now for peak flavor! Italian whites to heavily consider for pool and beach sessions.
Cheese. Enough said. Cava is the new Champagne, and it makes to-die-for cocktails. Dad’s day is better with wine. The mother lode of Mother’s Day wines. Wine to Watch: Flegenheimer Bros.‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz
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“I drink red wine on ice to water it down.”
- Diane Keaton
The Dogs of Shannon Ridge
remember driving up the Shannon Ridge
vineyards five years ago (a trip purposed
to explore sustainable wine production) in
Clay Shannon’s tractor-led bench wagon. It
was a beautiful, sunny day and the conver-
sation flowed from the fruit and the climate,
to the sheep and finally to the sheep dogs.
Clay’s endearing name for his sheep, his
“little wooly compost machines,” speaks to
their importance. They are the epitome of
sustainability and have been an integral part
of the process for the past eight years.
The sheep were not in the vineyard on this
particular day. They are only in the vine-
yards at certain times of the year, or they
might eat the first buds. My visit was in
late spring so the sheep were in their other
pastures waiting for the final harvest before
they are brought in to clean up all the leafy
debris after the grapes are picked. The dogs
are their constant companions from birth.
Across a verdant field, we could see a mass
of white puffs. The Anatolian sheep dogs
noticed us first, and with a whistle from
Clay they bounded over. I could tell that
Clay, a true cowboy in the classic sense of
the word, noted which among us were not
frightened by his adored canines, as if we
had passed a test.
In the beginning he reached out to other
sheep farmers all over the world. He needed
breeds that could handle some of the dangers
of Northern California like coyotes and
mountain lions, so size mattered. He looked
first to a Spanish breed, the Anatolian Sheep
Dog. The dogs don’t require much human
training per se, just time, since sheep herd-
ing is a natural part of their breeding. Clay
gets most of the dogs as puppies and begins
integrating them with the sheep around 12
weeks. He places the puppies with a few
sheep in a corral until the dogs are about six
months old, then they are fully integrated
into the vineyards.
The ranch can be tough on these dogs, and
it’s really very sad. They live outside with
the sheep and aren’t supposed to bond with
people. Last year Clay lost a few dogs: one to
a fight with another dog, one to a rattlesnake
bite and one to infection. The dogs I met
five years ago have changed, also signifying
a shift from Anatolian Sheep Dogs to Great
Pyrenees and Border Collies.
“Currently we have Jack, he is part Anatolian
and Great Pyrenees, Pearl is Great Pyrenees,
and Cricket and Lad are Border Collies.”
They are an investment in time and money
but mostly an investment in love, so loss is
especially brutal. Even though they are not
as “bonded” to humans as the typical house
pet, these dogs are warm, loving and have
no fear of the people that work and visit the
vineyards. These breeds are protectors,
not hunters.
The next glass of Shannon Ridge Wrangler
Red ($11) you sip, know that real cowboys
make the wine. Sustainability may be a
buzzword of late, but it has been Clay
Shannon’s commitment for over a decade.
That care comes through in his wines, so
check out Shannon Ridge, Vigilance, Cross
Springs and his newer line, High Valley. All
are great wines with Napa quality, but not
the Napa price. Most noticeably, they exhibit
the beauty of Lake County. Shannon Ridge’s
Buck Shack Red ($20) is a great one to toast
the amazing dogs that protect the sheep that
nourish the vineyard. One sip and you’ll
get a sense of how interconnected all of this
winemaking really is. o
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D A N I E L E D D Y • @ A B C W I N E D A N E • D A N E @ A B C F W S . C O M
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RED BARBERA Cascina Chicco Barbera d’Alba 2013 ‘Granera Alta’ (p 13) BORDEAUX Carruades de Lafite 2010 (p 8) Duhart-Milon Rothschild 2010 (p 8) Secret de Cardinale 2012 St. Émilion (p 13)
MALBEC Santa Julia Reserva Malbec (p 11) PETIT SIRAH Flegenheimer Petite Sirah 2013 (p 13) PORT Fonseca Vintage Port 2011 (p 8) RED BLEND Owen Sullivan ‘16th Street Bridge’ (p 13) Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red (p 3) Shannon Ridge Buck Shack Red (p 3)
RIOJA La Tercera 2010 Rioja Reserva (p 13)
SANGIOVESE La Gerla Gli Angeli Sangiovese (p 11) Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2009 (p 8)
SHIRAZ Flegenheimer Bros. ‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz (p 11, 16)
SUPER TUSCAN Antinori Solaia 2009 (p 8) Antinori Solaia 2010 (p 8)
ROSÉ Domaine Maby Tavel Rosé (p 11) Pulse Grapefruit Rosé (p 15)
WHITE ARNEIS Cascina Chico Arneis (p 9) CHABLIS Domaine Gueguen Chablis (p 11) CHARDONNAY Pellegrini Chardonnay Russian River (p 11)
FALANGHINA Tenuta Cavalier Pepe ‘Lila’ Falanghina (p 9)
GRECO Ippolito Ciro Bianco (p 9)
ORVIETO Le Velette Orvieto (p 9)
PINOT GRIGIO Storico Pinot Grigio (p 11)
SOAVE La Cappuccina Fontego Soave (p 9)
SAUTERNES Château Climens 2005 (p 8) Le Petit Guiraud 2012 (p 14) VERDICCHIO Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (p 9)
VERMENTINO Santa Maria Palma Vermentino Blu (p 9) VERNACCIA Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano (p 9, 11)
VOUVRAY Chateau Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec (p 15) SPARKLING Dominio de la Peseta Cava Brut (p 12) Mas Vida Cava Brut (p 12) Murviedro Luna Cava Brut (p 12)
WINE LIST
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HOW TO TASTE WINE
E njoying wine that you like and appreciating wine that you don’t like requires the same thing: the skill of tasting. The more you fine-tune your sensory abilities, the better you are able to understand and enjoy the nuances and details that great wines express.
While there is no one right or wrong way to learn how to taste wine, some “rules” do apply. First and foremost, take a minute to evaluate the surroundings of your wine tasting experience that may affect your impressions of the wine. For instance, a noisy or crowded room makes concentration diffi-cult. Cooking smells, perfume and even pet odor can destroy your ability to get a clear sense of a wine’s aromas. A glass that is too small, has the wrong shape, smells of dish soap or has a layer of dust in it can also affect the wine’s flavor.
The temperature of the wine will also have an impact on your impression, as will the age of the wine and any residual flavors from whatever else you’ve been eating or drinking. You want to neutralize the tasting condi-tions as much as possible, so the wine has a fair chance to stand on its own. If a wine is served too cold, warm it with your hands by cupping the bowl. If a glass seems musty, give it a quick rinse with wine, not water, swirling it around to cover all the sides of the bowl. This is called conditioning the glass. Finally, if there are strong aromas nearby—especially perfume—walk as far away from them as you can and try to find some neutral air.
Now, let’s taste.
First, give the wine in your glass a good swirl around. Be careful, this does take practice. If you are new at this, use the top of a table nearby to help steady your swirl. Next
evaluate the “look” of your wine: check out the color, opacity and viscosity (wine legs). This evaluation should only take 5 seconds.
Now the swirling that you did a bit earlier has had the chance to aerate the wine in your glass. Aeration is necessary to release sulfur dioxide, aldehydes and esters. Once the wine has aerated, you can actually smell the aroma and bouquet. Try and pick out at least two aromas and take your time identifying them.
There are 3 types of wine aromas:
• Primary aromas come from grapes and include fruit, herb and flower notes.
• Secondary aromas come from fermentation and yeast.
• Tertiary bouquets come from aging, oxidation and oak; these are often described as being similar to baking spices, nuts and vanilla.
To assess the taste of the wine you must evaluate the two elements that make up the palate: flavor and structure.
• Flavors such as lemon, blackberry or vanilla.
• Structure has to do with the level of sweetness, body, alcohol, acidity and tannins.
• Profile tastes can also be time-based; there is a beginning, middle (mid-palate) and end (finish).
Take a sip (not a large swallow) and try sucking on it like you’re pulling it through a straw—I definitely suggest practicing this at home first. Ignore the stares of those around you; this simply aerates the wine and circu-lates it throughout your mouth. Did the wine taste balanced or out of balance? Was this wine unique or unmemorable? Were there
any characteristics that stood out and im-pressed you? Surely, you’ll encounter a wide range of fruit, flower, herb, mineral, barrel and other flavors, and if you’ve done your sniffing homework, most flavors will follow right along where the aromas left off. Aside from simply identifying flavors, you are also using your palate to determine if the wine is balanced, harmonious, complex, evolved and complete. Remember that practice makes perfect, and the time and effort invested in palate training is rewarding… and very,
very fun. o
H E AT H E R B U R TO N • @A B C W I N E H E AT H E R B • H E AT H E R B @A B C F W S.C O M
L anding early on a Friday morning in
Santiago de Chile, and with only about two
hours sleep under our belts, we hit the ground
running. A private bus was waiting there to
rush us off to the Colchagua Valley and in less
than three hours we had wine glasses in hand
and, along with about 20 other wine people
from around the world, were taking part in
a power tasting with Bordeaux legend
François Lurton.
We were there to join in the 20th anniversary
celebrations of Lurton’s Chilean property, Ha-
cienda Araucano. The winery and most of the
vineyards are located in an interesting subdivi-
sion of Colchagua called the Lolol Valley. Lolol
is located 43 km (26 miles) from the Pacific
Ocean and average temperatures are generally
cooler than the rest of the area, which allows
for more elegant wines and is what Lurton was
looking for when he first explored this area.
The wines were, generally speaking, excellent.
Elegant Cabernet Sauvignon without the
green, vegetal quality sometimes found in
Chilean wine. Crisp Sauvignon Blanc with
a true sense of minerality. Carménère that
showed us what this misunderstood grape is
really about. Pinot Noir and Syrah with real
character and Cabernet Franc that forced us
to collectively wonder why Chilean Cabernet
Franc wasn’t on everyone’s lips.
François Lurton is indeed a pioneer in the
field of wine. From the earliest days he has
been a staunch advocate of screwcaps. In fact,
he stands against much of today’s received
knowledge that screwcaps are for young wines
and cork is still the safest way to go for wines
that age. Screwcaps, he insists, are the perfect
closure for wines that need to age, and if cork
is used at all it should be for young wines. To
prove his point, in an unplanned exercise, he
poured for us two glasses of an old wine from
A Visit to CHILE & ARGENTINA
B I L L S T O B B S • @ A B C W I N E B I L L S • W S T O B B S @ A B C F W S . C O M
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Lolol Valley from Francois Lurton’s home
Lunch at Araucano
François Lurton
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Lolol Valley from Francois Lurton’s home
the same vintage, one that had been aged with
a cork enclosure and one with a screwcap. The
differences were mind-boggling. The wine
from the cork bottle was beginning to break
down and tasted a little tired, while the same
wine from a screwcap bottle was fresh and
well-structured.
That evening we attended the anniversary
party at François Lurton’s home overlooking
the Lolol Valley. There were a number of local
winery owners there, a lot of French friends,
World Press and our little group of five Ameri-
cans. We sipped some excellent wine, talked of
many things and danced the night away to the
very wee hours.
The next day was a delightful lunch outdoors
and of course, some more wine. Afterward we
took a walk through the vineyards and had
a fascinating seminar on organic and biody-
namic winemaking, for this is another one of
François Lurton’s longtime pioneering beliefs.
“Biodynamic agriculture helps our vineyards
develop in harmony with nature,” he says,
“without any use of chemicals, thus encourag-
ing the vines to nourish themselves naturally.”
Some of it sounds like mumbo-jumbo at first,
but beneath it are some very sound principles.
And the results are always delicious!
A few days later we were on the other side of
the Andes, in Argentina, visiting the iconic
Zuccardi Family Wines estate along with
their sister-venture Bodega Santa Julia. Let us
first say something about the word ‘family’ in
Zuccardi Family Wines. Spending a few days
with the Zuccardis we quickly became aware
of a sense of ‘family.’ It is a sense of caring
and sharing that radiates out from the heart
of their own family to their co-workers, their
guests and visitors, and to the people in the
community. The Zuccardi Family are setting
up a network of schools, libraries, gyms and
social centers, not just for the people that work
for them in the vineyards but for everyone lo-
cally who has the need for these facilities; that
kind of caring shines through their wine as
well. It goes without saying that their Malbec
– at all levels and price-points – is something
special. But as fine as it is, and as popular as it
is internationally, it would be nice to see some
of Argentina’s other well-deserving varieties
gain acceptance worldwide. We were very
impressed with Zuccardi’s Tempranillo, which
can easily stand up to the Riojas and Ribera del
Dueros of Spain. Bonarda is also an impressive
grape variety in Argentina. And of course their
white Torrontés is that crisp, aromatic white
that so many of us are looking for.
On our second day we took a trip out to Paraje
Altamira in the Uco Valley where we attend-
ed a seminar – one of the best we’ve ever sat
through – on ‘terroir.’ Terroir is something we
all thought we understood, but soon found
that we had so much to learn. In a nutshell,
terroir is about uniqueness. It is about the
natural qualities that make a wine in a certain
area unique. It is not a question of the wine of
one area being better or worse than another.
It is a question of allowing the area’s unique-
ness to shine through.
From there we went to Zuccardi’s brand new
facility – not quite operational yet – in the Uco
Valley which is known as Piedra Infinita (In-
finite Stone). Even to someone who has spent
years visiting wineries, this facility was breath-
taking in its presentation and its capability.
Here we took part in a tour and tasting with
winemaker Laura Principiano, after which we
became the first American guests to lunch at
their brand new restaurant, not yet open to the
public. And if you know anything about the
cuisine of Argentina, then you can begin to
know how delicious that meal was.
All in all, it was a fascinating trip that whet
our appetite to explore and discover more
about the wine, the cuisine, the culture and
the people of these two great wine-producing
countries. They should indeed be much
better known. o
With José Alberto Zuccardi and “Santa” Julia
Empanadas!
Peruvian-style Pisco Sour
Primetime Wines
Château Climens 2005 – Barsac, Bordeaux, France, $70 (375mL)
“Toffee, dried lemon rind and tropical fruit on the
nose. Full-bodied and very sweet, with a dense palate
of candied fruit and a long, sweet finish. Very con-
centrated. The botrytis spice creeps up on the finish.
Best after 2013.” 95 points, Wine Spectator
Fonseca Vintage Port 2011 – Portugal, $90
“The Fonseca 2011 is typically more forthcoming on
the nose compared to the bashful Croft: a strident
bouquet with lifted scents of freshly picked blackberries,
kirsch, crushed stone and a dash of Hoi Sin and
oyster sauce. It is very well-defined, very focused and
direct. The palate is silky smooth with not a rough
edge in sight, though not a typically voluptuous
Fonseca because of the keen thread of acidity and
the structure that lends this mighty Port wonderful
backbone. A slight viscosity on the finish lacquers
the tongue and indicates a core of sweet fruit is
ticking away underneath that will surely explode
several years after bottling.” 97-99 points,
The Wine Advocate
Antinori Solaia 2010– Tuscany, Italy, $200*
“A dense, powerful red, with a good lashing of oak,
this evokes black currant, blackberry and spice flavors.
Finds equilibrium with air, gaining suppleness and
finishing long and complex. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2016
through 2028.” 93 points, Wine Spectator
Carruades de Lafite 2010–
Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, $315*
“The wine displays much of the same lead pencil,
charcoal and black currant notes of its bigger sister,
although it is forward, precocious and far less struc-
tured than the grand vin. Nevertheless, this wine,
which can be drunk now, will cellar beautifully for
at least 20-25 more years.” 94 points,
The Wine Advocate
Duhart-Milon Rothschild 2010 – Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, $150
“Dense purple, with classic notes of cedar and lead
pencil shavings as well as gobs of black currants and
licorice, the wine has a full-bodied mouthfeel with
precision and density. It also possesses a long, silky
finish with moderately high tannins, but they are
ripe and well-integrated. The wood is clearly pushed
to the background in this dense, full-bodied Pauillac,
which should drink beautifully for 30+ years.” 96
points, The Wine Advocate
Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2009 – Tuscany, Italy, $50
“Wild sage, juniper and eucalyptus notes pick
up some cherry accents in this lean, chewy red.
Well-proportioned, with a firm, sinewy finish, this
has character and should come together with a little
time. Best from 2016 through 2024.” 90 points,
Wine Spectator o
hen is a wine ready for primetime? Or rather, when is it in its prime? It depends upon the wine. Most
wines are meant to be enjoyed within a year or two of release, but some of the world’s great wines age for
decades to develop a deeper complexity. These wines are sometimes hard to find, but when you do, the first
sip will pull you down into a world of subtleties, flavor, balance and mm, mm deliciousness. Here are a few
wines ready for primetime that are available in select ABC locations.
*These wine prices end in 8 and are therefore ineligible for further discounts, including our $10 off $100 wine offer and $2 Rewards.
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B R A D L E W I S • C O N T R I B U T I N G W R I T E R
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Italian Whites for Floridian Summers
t’s been said that there are no guarantees in
life except death. Here in sunny, sub-tropical
South Florida, we have a more optimistic out-
look. One thing that is a given in South Florida
is that by this time of year our beautiful, balmy
weather is gone until (at least) November…
And that’s OK. The heat and humidity gives
us an excuse to slow down, spend some time
around blue water and rethink what we’re
pouring into our glasses. It’s never been a better
time to stock the wine rack and the fridge with
some crisp, vibrant Italian white wines.
Before I lose everyone who thinks this going to
be another article about Pinot Grigio, have no
fear. Italy offers an enormous array of intriguing
white wines that are both thought-provoking
and pleasurable. These lesser-known varietals
are just intriguing enough to keep you satisfied
and delicious enough for you to fall in love.
ARNEIS: One of my favorite new wines from
the Piemonte region, the Cascina Chicco
Arneis, ($23), offers notable complexity with
white peach, mint and minerals.
CIRO BIANCO: Produced from 100% Greco
Bianco, this white varietal was brought to
Calabria by the ancient Greeks. The Ippolito
Ciro Bianco, ($12), is a brilliant lemon-green
colored wine with aromas of peaches and citrus
fruits. Undertones of fresh cut herbs and flow-
ers round out the taste profile.
FALANGHINA: Falanghina is a grape variety
that has found its best expression in the volca-
nic soils in the Campania region of Italy. The
wine Tenuta Cavalier Pepe ‘Lila’ Falanghina,
($12), is an aromatic offering with lively acidity
and a real sense of place from the unique soil.
ORVIETO: Orvieto never seems to get the
attention it deserves; partly because much of
the Orvieto we see in the U.S. tends to be a
bland, pedestrian wine. In the hands of
quality producer such as Le Velette Orvieto
is transformed into a wine that is anything
but ordinary. The Le Velette Orvieto, ($12), is
clean and dry with pleasant acidity and peach notes.
SOAVE: Once one of the most popular imported
wines in the U.S., Soave fell into disfavor as its
commercial success led producers to quantity
at the expense of quality. La Cappuccina has
worked diligently to counter this negative
perception. The single vineyard La Cappuccina
Fontego Soave, ($12), is the flagship wine of
the estate. Golden delicious apples, hazelnuts,
citrus and white flowers are found in this
complex, age-worthy wine.
VERDICCHIO, VERMENTINO &
VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO: Yes,
these are three different wines but I couldn’t
decide between them so you get all three.
Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di
Jesi, ($11), is a mouthful of words and wine.
This crisp, dry wine from the Marches region
of central Italy is ideally matched with a plate
of seafood. Vermentino is grown all around
the Mediterranean coastline but really excels
on the island of Sardinia. The Santa Maria
Palma Vermentino Blu, ($13), is another wine
sure to improve any seafood dish you might
serve with it. Mormoraia Vernaccia, ($18),
is a new addition from the enchanted
Tuscan town of San Gimignano
and is one of the best examples
of Vernaccia I have tasted. o
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P A U L Q U A G L I N I • @ A B C W I N E P A U L Q • P A U L Q @ A B C F W S . C O M
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E
Secrets to a Well-crafted Cheeseboard
veryone has an inner Ina Garten.
I don’t care who you are, or what walk of
life you come from, an evening filled with
lip-smacking wines, a laden cheeseboard,
and hearty laughter tickles everyone’s fancy.
Since you’ve suddenly come across a craving
for the fancy-schmancy, why not take a stab
at a cheeseboard? It can’t be done wrong (be-
cause cheese can’t be wrong), and it’s a fun
excuse to try some new wines and entertain
friends.
1. THE BOARD AND THE CHEESE
When most people craft a cheeseboard, they
focus on hitting all the flavor bases: sharp,
nutty, creamy, fresh and funky. Instead, focus
more on hitting these bases: aged, young,
goat and blue. You do want a healthy repre-
sentation of sharp, nutty, creamy, fresh and
funky, but if you’re not a cheesemonger you
might not know what cheeses exhibit these
flavors right off the bat.
SECRET #1: Unwrap cheeses to let them breathe and “open up” just like you would a wine.
The actual board that the cheeses and treats
go on can be anything solid, from wood to
marble to glass to ceramic. Cake stands and
cutting boards also make great cheeseboards!
If you don’t have special cheese knives, just
pair one butter knife per cheese.
Once you’ve done this a few times, you can
begin to build boards based on region, coun-
try, style or age. In the beginning, though,
it’s always more fun to experiment with all
styles and flavors.
2. BREAD, CRACKERS AND SPREADS
This will serve as the anchor for your palate.
Crackers and bread are the blank canvases
cheese flavors bounce off of. Think bread
sticks for height, toasted baguettes for
spreads, and crackers for crunch. Remember
that the carbs here are to showcase the
flavors of the cheese and wine together, so
simple flavors like cracked pepper and sea
salt always work.
SECRET #2: Cheese should always be served at room temperature, so letting the cheese breathe for 30-45 minutes after taking from the refrigerator is a good idea.
If you want to add another level of complex
flavor and beauty to your board, consider
some spreads. Bacon jam, olive tapenade,
red pepper jelly, fruity marmalades, Sierra
Nevada mustards and honey are great candi-
dates. Or just go for a chunk of honeycomb;
its rustic look will have your board
screaming “I’m Barefoot Contessa’s
best friend.”
3. FRUIT
Fresh and dried, it’s always good to think
about season with fruit. Since we’re embarking
on summer, mandarins, cherries, apricots,
strawberries, cantaloupe and blueberries will
be at their freshest. You can never go wrong
with candied lemons! Oh, and wrap some pro-
sciutto around the cantaloupe (it’s to die for).
SECRET #3: Cover cheeses in a damp towel to keep them from drying out too much, which can alter flavor.
4. SALTY, SWEET AND CURED
This is where your briny olives, cured meats
and candied/spiced nuts come in. Olives are
a staple on a cheeseboard, but if you want to
turn this course into a meal you could add
prosciutto, salami, genoa and other cured
meats. The nuts provide some extra crunch
and can be used to echo flavors in the chees-
es (got an espresso dusted Cheddar? Cocoa
almonds would pair perfectly with that!).
SECRET #4: The board should be arranged (and eaten) from mild to strong, left to right or clockwise. Make sure there is space between stinky cheeses and mild cheeses; odor (and flavor) can and will transfer easily!
5. GARNISH FOR AESTHETICS
This part is easy… garnish with herbs!
Choose edible greenery to fill empty
spaces around the board.
SECRET #5: Each person will eat about 6 ounces of cheese, so buy according to how many people will be in attendance to make sure everyone gets a bite!
Once you gather your cheese it’s time to
think about the wines.
Our Wines to Watch are expert selections
that exhibit an unparalleled sense of place.
They maintain heightened personality and
hail from distinct coordinates. These wines
aren’t just ABC’s newest wines, they are
the wines that might just be the world’s
next favorite. o
A L L I E S M A L L W O O D • @ A B C W I N E C O U N T R Y • A L L I E S @ A B C F W S . C O M
(and the kick-butt wines to pair with)
Secrets to a Well-crafted Cheeseboard W I N E S T O W A T C H
Domaine Gueguen Chablis, $19
Pair with soft, creamy cheeses like
an aged Brie or a Jarlsberg.
Flegenheimer Bros. ‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz, $15
This wine calls for a cheese that can tango
with its spice, such as Extra Sharp Cheddar
or Gouda.
Pellegrini Chardonnay Russian River, $22
You could go the typically creamy Brie
route here, but a goat Alpine Shepard
cheese will really dance with this wine.
Domaine Maby Tavel Rosé, $17
Because this is a drier style of rosé, pair
with rich cheeses like goat, Mahon (a Spanish
cheese with creamy texture and sharp bite),
or Appenzeller, a style of Gruyère whose
slightly herbal and spicy character pairs
so well with this rosé.
Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano, $18
This citrusy, refreshing wine belongs with
semisoft, washed-rind, young cheeses like
Taleggio. This Italian cheese has a robust
aroma with a tangy fruit flavor.
Santa Julia Reserva Malbec, $13
Seek out funky, umami-heavy cheeses for
Malbec. This particular wine would do well
with soft to semi-firm cow and sheep milk
cheese like Cashel blue or Manchego.
Storico Pinot Grigio, $10
Storico’s Pinot Grigio is super fruity and
crisp, so a delicate, slightly tangy and
somewhat salty cheese like Asiago Fresco
would go very well. Or try a nutty, grassy
St. Nectaire.
La Gerla Gli Angeli Sangiovese $18
This delicious Sangiovese is nutty and rich
so it needs a cheese that follows suit. Try
Pecorino and Fontina but especially dry Jack.
wine journal | 11
wine journal | 12
W
Cava CocktailsJ I M G R E E L E Y • @ A B C W I N E J I M G • J A M E S G @ A B C F W S . C O M
ith the seasonal temps inching the mercury north of comfortable,
it’s a perfect time to enjoy wines that offer great flavor and cool us off
a bit. I can’t think of a better reason to invite friends over for an infor-
mal gathering, fire up the grill and sip a chilly glass or two of Cava.
Next time you reach for a bottle of bubbly make it for a Cava cocktail. o
French 752 oz Murviedro Luna Cava Brut
1/2 oz Lemon juice
1 oz Gin (I recommend a gin with citrusy
aromatics like Los Apostoles Gin ($32))
2 dashes Simple syrup
Combine gin, syrup and lemon juice in a
cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake vig-
orously and strain into an iced flute glass.
Top up with more Cava. Stir gently.
Later editions of this cocktail substitute
cognac for the gin. Try Hardy VS Cognac
($30) as a terrific alternative.
Sparkling Sangria Cocktail1/2 oz Simple syrup 1 Orange quarter 1 Lime quarter 1/2 oz Orange liqueur 1/2 oz Spanish brandy (a Solara Brandy de Jerez like Felipe II ($19) should suffice nicely) 4 oz Dominio de la Peseta Cava, chilled 2 oz Lemon-lime soda, chilled 1 Maraschino cherry
Muddle fruit slices in a shaker with simple syrup. Add liqueur and brandy with ice. Shake and strain into a cocktail glass. Add soda and top off with cava. Drop in cherry and garnish with an orange slice. (Recipe modified from www.freixenetusa.com.)
Blood Orange Cava Cocktail2 Blood oranges, plus 1 thin slice for garnish Splash of fresh lemon juice Splash of bitters 4 oz Mas Vida Cava Brut, chilledUsing a reamer, juice the blood oranges into a strainer placed over a bowl. With the back of the spoon work the pulp against the strainer to extract all of the juice, about 1/4 cup. In a small pitcher combine the blood orange juice, lemon juice, bitters and the chilled Cava. Give it a little stir. Pour into a chilled Champagne flute. Garnish with a thin slice of blood orange.
(Recipe modified from www.foodnetwork.com.)
A
Fathe r ’s Day : All I Really Want is a Six-pack
S H A Y N E H E B E R T • @ A B C W I N E S H A Y N E • S H A Y N E H @ A B C F W S . C O M
h, Father’s Day, the annual pilgrimage of man to grill, cold beer in hand to sear a side of beast, pronounce it done and present it to table, where it
gets wolfed down. Then, said father beelines it to the couch to try and capture just a little relaxation before day’s end.
I wish my day went something like that on Father’s Day, though I might replace that cold beer with a glass of wine.
My typical ‘dad day’ includes driving my daughter to and from dance rehearsal and recital, enjoying lunch at Harry’s near Munn Park in Lakeland
(best gumbo in the area), and spending the evening watching the recital, along with a theater half-filled with other dads looking like they would
rather be nowhere else, except maybe in front of a grill.
Since I don’t get to laze around all day, at least let me daydream about the perfect Father’s Day gift: a 6-pack. Yep, that’s all I ever wanted—that and
half a cow and some taters. My 6-pack contains no beer, I’m sorry to report. Mine is wine, red wine—red wine that pairs well with meat to be precise.
It’s not everyone’s ideal beverage when it is 90 degrees out and the grill is on, but isn’t that why air conditioning was invented in the first place? o
Here is my 6-pack starting line-up:
La Tercera 2010 Rioja Reserva, $25
“A classic, traditional Rioja,
it exhibits notes of lead pencil
shavings, unsmoked cigar
tobacco, black cherries,
blackcurrants and subtle
oak in the background.
Medium-bodied, elegant and
pure with lovely texture and
lushness.” 93 points,
The Wine Advocate
Secret de Cardinale 2012 St. Emilion, $37
“This 2012 is a super-con-
centrated, layered, opulent
wine with fruit largely
concealing some serious
tannins. This blockbuster
displays plenty of mocha,
black cherry and cassis fruit.
It has an incredibly dense,
opaque purple color and a
full-bodied mouthfeel.”
93+ points, The Wine Advocate
Cascina Chicco Barbera d’Alba 2013 ‘Granera Alta’, $22
Jumps from the glass with
sweet, red berries, flowers,
spice and mint. This
Barbera is beautifully
perfumed and ready to
drink now and over the
next few years.
Cascabel Composé 2011, $17
Composé is a blend of 50%
Mourvèdre and 50% Syrah.
Bright ruby-red with pun-
gent aromas of raspberry
liqueur, lavender and licorice,
lifted by an exotic Indian
spice quality. Lush and
pliant but with a surprisingly
light touch to its flavors of
red berries, floral pastilles
and spice cake. Youthfully
energetic and taut on
the finish.
Owen Sullivan Cabernet Franc ‘16th Street Bridge’ 2013, $17
This release is devoted
to Cabernet Franc (79%)
and supported by Cabernet
Sauvignon (11%) and Merlot
from acclaimed vineyards
such as Champoux, Elephant
Mountain, Sheridan and Two
Blondes. French Cab lovers
will embrace this for its
aromas and flavors of Bing
cherry, red currant, bell
pepper, oregano and thyme.
Bila Haut 2013 ‘Occultum Lapidem’ Cotes du Roussillon Villages/Latour de France, $25
“An incredible effort, the 2013
is made from a mix of Syrah,
Grenache and Carignan that
comes from schist and chalky
soils. A serious, classically
styled effort, it offers awesome
aromas and flavors (blackberry,
mineral and licorice), full-bod-
ied richness and fabulous
concentration that never comes
across as heavy. 94-97 points
The Wine Advocatewine journal | 13
wine journal | 14
y favorite Sauternes estate is Château
Guiraud; this property dates back to the early
18th century and in 1855, Château Guiraud
was officially classified as a Premier Grand
Cru of Sauternes in Bordeaux, France.
Over a period of 100 years various families
succeeded as owners of the estate: During
a dinner in early 2006, Robert Peugeot, an
industrialist, and three winemakers, Olivier
Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, Stephan
Von Neipperg of Château Canon La Gaffelière
and Xavier Planty, the estate’s director, decid-
ed to buy Guiraud. They signed a purchase
contract on July 20, 2006, thereby uniting
their shared passion for wine, gastronomy
and nature.
The wine produced here is made from Sauvi-
gnon Blanc (35%) and Sémillon (65%) grapes
affected by Botrytis Cinerea, or Noble Rot, a
type of fungus that feeds on the water inside
the grapes and thus naturally concentrates
the aromas and flavors in the grapes resulting
in a Sauternes wine with an exquisite taste.
Botrytis brings natural sweetness to the wine
and a great range of flattering aromas such
as sweet pineapple, candied fruit, black tea,
white pepper, saffron and sandalwood.
Under the expert guidance of Xavier Planty,
the wines of Château Guiraud have been
certified organic since the 2011. Château
Guiraud is the first Grand Cru Sauternes
to carry the organic logo.
Organic farming begins with regenerating the
soil, biodiversity and grassy vegetation that
grows naturally around the vine stock. An
insect census of Château Guiraud’s 128 hectares
of vineyards found 635 different varieties,
compared to fewer than 200 in conventional
vineyards. To help expand biodiversity, 3.7
miles of hedges have been planted to help pro-
tect insects and feed them in spring. Multiple
‘bug houses’ have also been placed throughout
the vineyards. The multiplication of insects
which feed on vine predators has allowed
Xavier Planty to dispense completely with
insecticides at Guiraud since 2004.
But back to the wine. Available at select ABC
stores is the second wine of Château Guiraud,
Le Petit Guiraud. The 2012 Petit Guiraud is
an excellent choice for Mother’s Day brunch –
in a 375 mL bottle it’s offered for only $19!
Another personal favorite sweet wine—and
one perfect to serve on Mother’s Day—is the
Vouvray from Château Moncontour in the
Loire Valley in Northern France.
If you are a fan of semi-sweet (demi-sec)
white wine, or simply want to taste one of
the best, the Vouvray Demi-Sec by Château
Moncontour should be on top of your list; it is
not only of the highest quality but is probably
the best value in its category.
The vineyards at Moncontour are some of
the oldest in Loire Valley; a castle has existed
there since the fourth century. The current
structure dates back to the Renaissance when
Charles VII, King of France, rebuilt the castle
during the 15th century for his mistress
Agnès Sorel.
The current owner, the Feray family, purchased
the domain in 1994. With the same passion as
their predecessors, they have never stopped
to revamp the vineyard and to improve the
M
3 French Stunners for Mother’s Day
AT A N A S N E C H K O V • @ A B C W I N E AT A N A S • AT A N A S N @ A B C F W S .C O M
Château Moncontour, Loire Valley, France
Guiraud vineyard living soil
cellars to make Moncontour vineyard one of
the most beautiful and renowned of the region.
Currently Château Moncontour has 130
hectares under vine, mostly in AOC Vouvray,
on calcareous and clay soils. The cellars of
Château Moncontour have been carved in the
rock below the park of the château so that the
grapes can be transferred smoothly by gravity
into the presses and the barrels and tanks.
The 2014 Château Moncontour Vouvray
Demi-Sec ($15) exhibits pale yellow-gold
color with green hues and aromas and fla-
vors of apricot, sweet orange, green apple and
acacia flowers; soft and round in the mouth
with medium sweetness and nice acidity for a
perfectly balanced finish. Enjoy as an aperitif,
by itself or with light appetizers, fresh fruit
or fruit tarts.
The third selection of sweet wine is more than
just a wine, it is a wine cocktail!
Five years ago a new trend emerged in the
rosé wine market: the flavored rosé. These
are refreshing, low calorie, off-dry and fruity
wines. In a very short time they became
a favorite with European consumers. Initially
several flavors were crafted, including straw-
berry, raspberry and apple, but only one has
survived the market test—grapefruit!
Now at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits is Pulse
Grapefruit Rosé at the friendly price of
only $8.
Pulse Grapefruit Rosé is quality rosé
wine from Southern France with natural
grapefruit flavors.
This style comes from a French tradition of
adding a touch of fruit juice or syrup to a
glass of wine. The freshness of the rosé wine
is perfectly balanced by the vibrancy of the
citrus fruit, tangy aromas of natural grapefruit
and a touch of peach, resulting in a vibrant
and refreshing drink. Serve chilled over ice
or with light appetizers. o
wine journal | 15
8989 South Orange Ave.Orlando, Florida 32824
W I N E T O W A T C H : Flegenheimer Bros. ‘Out of the Park’ ShirazA R O M A :
CRACKED PEPPER, CINNAMON AND CLOVE WITH NOTES OF BLACKBERRY F L A V O R :
Dark plum and spice with chocolate undertones and jammy berriesB O D Y :
Full-bodied and rich
wine journal | 16
C O L O R :
DEEP PURPLE WITH GARNET HUES
F I N I S H :
Well-structured with lingering
tannins and bright acidity
R E G I O N :
Mclaren Vale, Australia
P A I R W I T H :