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FALL 2015 SAVOR THE GORGE 1 FALL 2015 A celebrati of esh, local fꝏd Who’s your FARMER INSIDE

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FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 1

F A L L 2 0 1 5

A celebrati� of �esh, local f�d

Who’s yourFARMER

INSIDE

2 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 3

EDITOR

Janet [email protected]

GENERAL MANAGER

Chelsea [email protected]

ADVERTISING MANAGER

Jody Thompson [email protected]

ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES

Liana Stegall • Kirsten Lane

LAYOUT AND GRAPHIC DESIGN

Lisa [email protected]

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kathy Watson, Kacie McMackin, Lauren Kraemer, Matt Landi

PHOTOGRAPHY

Kacie McMackin, Mark Gibson, Adam Lapierre

CONTACT US

Hood River News419 State Street

PO Box 390Hood River, Oregon 97031

541-386-1234www.hoodrivernews.com

Savor the Gorge is published twice a year in June and September by Hood River News. No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. ©2015. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

LOCATIONSPick up your FREE Savor The Gorge

publication Hood River News, 419 State Street

Hood River, Oregon 97031

The Dalles Chronicle, 315 Federal Street The Dalles, Oregon 97058

About the cover:

Ben Stenn, chef at Celilo Restaurant

and Bar, pairs two of his fall favorites,

chanterelle mushrooms and fresh corn.

Thank you to Gorge Grown Food Network for contributing to and supporting this publication.

F A L L 2 0 1 5

EspressoSingle Origin

COFFEE COFFEE

Blends Organic Decaf

COFFEE COFFEECOFFEE

SMOOTH, FRAGRANT, DELIGHTF

UL

ESPRESSO BLEND

EXQUISITE, DELICIOUS

ORGANIC DECAF

RICHAND SA

TISFYING

BALANCED, FLAVORFUL

single origin

distinctive, aromatic

4 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

CONTENTS

5 EDITOR’S NOTE

6 FRESH IN THE GORGE

10 HARVESTING A LIFE

16 COOKING WITH KIDS

22 3 REASONS TO EAT OUT

26 NOT YOUR AVERAGE SCHOOL LUNCH

28 PRESERVING THE HARVEST

30 WHO’S YOUR FARMER

34 Q&A: CODY ORCHARDS

16

34

10

34

28

Advice from a

PearLove your

shape

Delight in simplepleasures

Celebrate your natural beauty

Remember your roots

Be Wild and Wonderful!

— Lisa Perry Cody Orchards

34

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 5

ccording to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, family farming is on the decline. It has been since its peak in the 1930s, when there were close to 7 million family farms in the country. By 2002, the number had leveled off at around 2 million.

The Columbia Gorge might be a notable exception. Here, numerous family farms begun by some of the first generations of settlers in the area are still in operation, run by family members several generations removed from those stalwart pioneers. Writer Kathy Watson chronicles two such family farms—Sandoz Farms in The Dalles and Riverside Farms in Hood River—beginning on page 10. What’s striking about these families is their resilience through generations—and complete eras—of change, and their ability to adapt to evolving markets and ever greater challenges in order to keep the family farm alive. It’s an inspiring story, and one that has played out many times over at farms all around the Gorge. Next time you’re visiting a fruit stand, strike up a conversation with its proprietor and see where it takes you.

Speaking of inspiring, one local school is bucking the norm when it comes to school lunches. The Mosier Schools, a charter school that’s part of North Wasco School District 21 in The Dalles, offers its students meals cooked from scratch every day. What’s more, the cafeteria cooks incorporate fresh produce from the school garden into daily meals when possible, and source other food from local producers. Writer Matt Landi chronicles the school lunch program at Mosier, beginning on page 26.

And to whet your appetite for fall, Kathy Watson once again ventures out to local restaurants to see what seasonal fare our talented chefs are cooking up this fall (page 22). As you can tell from the plate on the cover, created by Chef Ben Stenn of Celilo Restaurant and Bar, you won’t be disappointed.

With the season of harvest upon us, bringing its considerable bounty from local farms, orchards and ranches to our tables, we hope you’ll savor all that the Gorge has to offer.

— Janet Cook

EDITOR’S NOTE

Grace Su’s

Restaurant

Open Tues.-Sun. 11am-9pmIntersection of Hwys 30 & 35

(541) 386-5331 • Hood Riverwww.chinagorge.com

& Tiger Lounge

• Szechuan-Hunan platesprepared withFresh Ingredients

• Free parking• Cocktails with freshly

squeezed juicein our Tiger Lounge

• Open Tuesday — Sunday

Locally Owned & Operatedfor more than 30 Years

Non-Pasteurized Cider

Apple, Pear, Cherry & Apple-Pear BlendMade on the Farm!

Draper Girls Country Farm6200 Highway 35 • Mt. Hood, Parkdale

541-490-8113 • drapergirlscountryfarm.com

• Raised on the farm grass-fed Lamb & Goat Meat• Locally made Jams & Honey

•Grandmas Cinnamon Dried Apples•Antiques •Petting Zoo

Enjoy our beautiful farm in our vacation rental!FARMSTAND • U-PICK DAHLIAS & FRUIT

APPLES, PEACHES, PEARS

A

6 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

F A L L 2 0 1 5

Harvest DinnerGorge Grown Food Network hosts its annual Harvest Dinner at Kiyokawa Family Orchards in the Hood River Valley on Sept. 27, featuring a classic four-course farm dinner prepared by Chef Ben Stenn of Celilo Restaurant and Bar. Dinner will highlight seasonal produce and local meat, all raised right here in the Gorge. Each course will be accompanied by local beverage pairings. Live music will be provided by The June Bug Boys. The event is a fundraiser for the nonprofit Gorge Grown Food Network, which works to build a thriving local food system in the Gorge. Tickets are available at gorgegrown.org, or call (541) 490-6420.

Moroccan Fête at River DazeRiver Daze Café in Hood River is the site of a Moroccan feast hosted by Giselle Kennedy of Quincho on Sept. 20, beginning at 6 p.m. Kennedy and chef Jon Moch, who have both traveled in Morocco, will draw on their experience in the country to create the meal and ambience. The space will be transformed into a dreamy Moroccan medina, and the menu

includes food made from centuries-old recipes.There will be surprise entertainment and vagabond stories from the land of snake charmers, camels and teahouses. Quincho celebrates food culture and culinary traditions from around the world. Kennedy works with local businesses, farmers, chefs and communitypartners to create delicious, memorable and authentic food experiences. For more information and tickets for the event, go to quincho.co. If you want to learn how to prepare your own Moroccan meal, Kennedy hosts a Moroccan cooking class at Wildcraft Studio School in White Salmon on Oct. 3. For information, go to wildcraftstudioschool.com

Fill Your PantryThe first annual “Fill Your Pantry” farmers’ market will be hosted by the Rockford Grange (4250 Barrett Drive in Hood River) on Saturday, Nov. 7, from 2 to 6 p.m. The special market provides a way for Gorge residents to stock up for the winter months with stor-able food products grown by local farmers. A variety of nutritious, locally-produced staples will be available for purchase in bulk, direct from producers. Products available include potatoes, onions, garlic, root crops, winter squash, grains, beans, cornmeal, fruit, meat, honey, cheese, dried herbs and jams. The event will

include food storage demonstrations, educational materials, kids activities and live music. Vendor space is still available. For information, contact Bonnie Cox at [email protected].

Celilo cooking classesJust in time for the winter culinary doldrums, Chef Ben Stenn of Celilo Restaurant offers a series of cooking classes. On Jan. 26, Stenn will teach a class on “Winter’s Bounty.” On Feb. 23 is “Vegetarian Preparations,” and April 19 brings “Early Spring CSA Basket.” The classes are taught in the restaurant kitchen at Celilo. They typically last about three hours, beginning at 5:30 p.m. Stenn covers specific techniques and preparations, and the classes culminate in a meal that the class members enjoy together. Classes cost $85 and are limited to 12. To register, call Celilo at (541) 386-5710.

FreshBITES

APPLESASIAN PEARS

BASILBEANS

BEAN SPROUTSBEETS BOK CHOY

BROCCOLIBRUSSELS SPROUTS

BURDOCK CABBAGE CARROTS

CAULIFLOWER

CELERIACCHARDCIDER

COLLARDSCORN

CUCUMBERSCURRANTSEGGPLANT

FIGSGARLIC

GOURDS

GRAPESHAZELNUTS

HERBSKOHLRABI

MELONSMUSHROOMS

MUSTARDSONIONS

PEARSPEPPERS

POTATOES

PUMPKINSQUINCE

RADISHESRUTABAGAS

SALAD GREENSSPINACH

SHALLOTSTOMATOES

TURNIPSWALNUTS

WINTER SQUASH

Produce by Season in the Gorge

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 7

Goldendale Farmers’ Market Hood River Saturday Market Mercado del ValleEkone Park Oak St. Pub Mid-Valley ElementaryN Wilbur Ave, Goldendale, WA 4th & Oak St., Hood River, OR 3686 Davis Dr., Odell, ORMay 9 - September 26 June 6 - September 26 June 20 - September 26Saturdays 9 am - 2 pm Saturdays 10 am - 2 pm Saturdays 3 - 6 pm

Mosier Farmers’ Market Stevenson Farmers’ Market The Dalles Farmers’ MarketDowntown Mosier Courthouse Lawn The Dalles City Park1st Ave., Mosier, OR Hwy 14, Stevenson, WA 5th & Union, The Dalles, ORJune 21 - September 27 June 20 - October 10 June 6 - October 10Sundays 4 - 7 pm Saturdays 10 am - 1 pm Saturdays 9 am - 1 pm

Trout Lake Saturday Market White Salmon Farmers’ Market Hood River Farmers’ MarketTrout Lake Grange Feast Market & Deli May 7 - June 112390 Hwy 141, Trout Lake, WA 320 E Jewett, White Salmon, WA Hood River Middle SchoolJune 27 - September 5 June 23 - September 29 Thursdays 5 - 8 pmSaturdays 9 am - 3 pm Tuesdays 4 - 7 pm June 11 - August 27 Hood River Middle School Thursdays 4 - 7 pm

September 3 - November 19 Springhouse Cellars Thursdays 4 - 7 pm

Taste the difference in fresh local quality.FRESH TASTE AND VARIETY.Produce picked and eaten at the height of ripeness has exceptionalflavor and, when handled properly, is packed with nutrients. Also, localfarm products are chosen for the best flavor, not for their ability towithstand industrial harvesting equipment and extended travel.SUPPORTS THE LOCAL ECONOMY.Buying locally keeps your money circulating within your community,supporting economic prosperity in the Rogue Valley.SUPPORTS FAMILY FARMERS.Family farmers who sell their products through national andinternational distribution chains receive little, if any, profit due to thecost of transport, packaging and advertising. When you buy from localfarmers, the farmer receives a larger portion of the food dollar.PROTECTS OPEN SPACE AND FARMLAND.Economically viable farms are a necessity if we are to keep the pastoralviews in the Rogue Valley. Supporting local farms helps ensure that thebeautiful farmland surrounding our cities will remain into the future.BUILDS COMMUNITY.When you buy directly from the farmer, you have the opportunity to askabout their farming practices or just socialize over a juicy ripe peach or afresh ear of corn.PROTECTS NATURAL RESOURCES.Food traveling through our current distribution system is resourceintensive. The average food item grown and eaten in the United Stateshas traveled 1500 miles. Only 10% of the fossil fuels used in ourworld’s food system actually goes intoproduction. The other 90% goes topackaging, transporting and marketing.FOOD SECURITY AND SELF-RELIANCE.

FRESHProduce by Season

the list you already have

Project1:Layout 1 5/21/2015 3:54 PM Page 1LOCAL FARMERS’ MARKETS OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE

GOLDENDALE FARMERS’ MARKETEkone ParkN. Wilbur Ave, Goldendale, WAThrough September 26Saturdays 9 am - 2 pm

MOSIER FARMERS’ MARKETDowntown Mosier1st Ave, Mosier, ORThrough September 27Sundays 4 - 7 pm

TROUT LAKE SATURDAY MARKETTrout Lake Grange2390 Hwy 141, Trout Lake, WAThrough September 5Saturdays 9 am - 3 pm

HOOD RIVER SATURDAY MARKETOak St Pub4th & Oak St, Hood River, ORThrough September 26Saturdays 10 am - 2 pm

STEVENSON FARMERS’ MARKETCourthouse LawnHwy 14, Stevenson, WAThrough October 10Saturdays 10 am - 1 pm

WHITE SALMON FARMERS’ MARKETFeast Market & Deli320 E Jewett, White Salmon, WAThrough September 29Tuesdays 4 - 7 pm

MERCADO DEL VALLEMid-Valley Elementary3686 Davis Dr, Odell, ORThrough September 26Saturdays 3 - 6 pm

THE DALLES FARMERS’ MARKETThe Dalles City Park5th & Union, The Dalles, ORThrough October 10Saturdays 9 am - 1 pm

HOOD RIVER FARMERS’ MARKETSeptember 3 - November 19Springhouse CellarThursdays 4 - 7 pm

Goldendale Farmers’ Market Hood River Saturday Market Mercado del ValleEkone Park Oak St. Pub Mid-Valley ElementaryN Wilbur Ave, Goldendale, WA 4th & Oak St., Hood River, OR 3686 Davis Dr., Odell, ORMay 9 - September 26 June 6 - September 26 June 20 - September 26Saturdays 9 am - 2 pm Saturdays 10 am - 2 pm Saturdays 3 - 6 pm

Mosier Farmers’ Market Stevenson Farmers’ Market The Dalles Farmers’ MarketDowntown Mosier Courthouse Lawn The Dalles City Park1st Ave., Mosier, OR Hwy 14, Stevenson, WA 5th & Union, The Dalles, ORJune 21 - September 27 June 20 - October 10 June 6 - October 10Sundays 4 - 7 pm Saturdays 10 am - 1 pm Saturdays 9 am - 1 pm

Trout Lake Saturday Market White Salmon Farmers’ Market Hood River Farmers’ MarketTrout Lake Grange Feast Market & Deli May 7 - June 112390 Hwy 141, Trout Lake, WA 320 E Jewett, White Salmon, WA Hood River Middle SchoolJune 27 - September 5 June 23 - September 29 Thursdays 5 - 8 pmSaturdays 9 am - 3 pm Tuesdays 4 - 7 pm June 11 - August 27 Hood River Middle School Thursdays 4 - 7 pm

September 3 - November 19 Springhouse Cellars Thursdays 4 - 7 pm

Taste the difference in fresh local quality.FRESH TASTE AND VARIETY.Produce picked and eaten at the height of ripeness has exceptionalflavor and, when handled properly, is packed with nutrients. Also, localfarm products are chosen for the best flavor, not for their ability towithstand industrial harvesting equipment and extended travel.SUPPORTS THE LOCAL ECONOMY.Buying locally keeps your money circulating within your community,supporting economic prosperity in the Rogue Valley.SUPPORTS FAMILY FARMERS.Family farmers who sell their products through national andinternational distribution chains receive little, if any, profit due to thecost of transport, packaging and advertising. When you buy from localfarmers, the farmer receives a larger portion of the food dollar.PROTECTS OPEN SPACE AND FARMLAND.Economically viable farms are a necessity if we are to keep the pastoralviews in the Rogue Valley. Supporting local farms helps ensure that thebeautiful farmland surrounding our cities will remain into the future.BUILDS COMMUNITY.When you buy directly from the farmer, you have the opportunity to askabout their farming practices or just socialize over a juicy ripe peach or afresh ear of corn.PROTECTS NATURAL RESOURCES.Food traveling through our current distribution system is resourceintensive. The average food item grown and eaten in the United Stateshas traveled 1500 miles. Only 10% of the fossil fuels used in ourworld’s food system actually goes intoproduction. The other 90% goes topackaging, transporting and marketing.FOOD SECURITY AND SELF-RELIANCE.

FRESHProduce by Season

the list you already have

Project1:Layout 1 5/21/2015 3:54 PM Page 1

more information at gorgegrown.org

Gorge Grown Food Network Receives Grant for “Veggie Prescription Program” Gorge Grown Food Network is the recipient of a $20,000 grant from the Jerome S. and Barbara Bischoff Discretionary Subfund of The Oregon Community Foundation to fund a new Veggie Prescription pilot program in the Columbia River Gorge. Gorge Grown and its community partners launched the Veggie Prescription (or Veggie Rx) program in August. The Veggie Rx program will work to address food insecurity in the region by providing vouchers to low-income community members that can be redeemed at local farmers’ markets and select grocery stores for fresh fruits and vegetables. Under the program, healthcare and social service providers will identify patients who suffer from food insecurity through a questionnaire. The providers will then write a prescription that patients can fi ll at farmers’ markets and grocery stores throughout the Gorge for fresh foods. Several local healthcare providers are

providing matching funds specifi cally for the fresh produce vouchers including Providence Hood River Memorial Hospital, Mid Columbia Medical Center, Skyline Hospital and the Columbia Gorge Health Council. The Tofurky Company is also providing funding support. That’s over $30,000 for direct purchase of local fruits and vegetables by voucher recipients. Gorge Grown will partner with Oregon State University to provide nutrition and cooking classes to participants of the program. “We are really excited about this opportunity to address food insecurity in partnership with the health care community while supporting local farmers. Hunger is a medical issue.” said Sarah Sullivan, Executive Director of Gorge Grown Food Network. Similar pilot programs have worked with small, focus groups. “What makes this model unique is the potential to really impact epidemic hunger in the Gorge by providing support to thousands through multiple channels and markets.“

Art of the HarvestCelebrate the rich agricultural bounty of the Columbia River Gorge at Hood River’s Columbia Center for the Arts with its September show, “Farm to Fork – Art of Harvest.” Seventeen artists from Oregon and Washington present artwork in a variety of media that depict all aspects of harvest, from illustrations of scenes behind the scenes at local farms, to the interpretations of the harvest, to fi nely crafted implements of the dining table. The show represents a visual return to our ancestral tradition of harvesting our food directly from local farms to local forks. The show runs from Sept. 1-27. For more information, go to columbiaarts.org.

Farm-to-Fork in The DallesThe Dalles hosts its fi rst farm-to-fork dining event on Saturday, Sept. 26, at The Pines Estate—one of Oregon’s oldest vineyards— during the heart of the grape harvest. Autumn Harvest Farm 2 Fork will celebrate the farm-fresh cuisine and wines of the eastern Columbia River Gorge. Guests will savor a six-course al fresco meal, live music and local art. Local chefs Mark Linebarger of Baldwin Saloon and Tamara Hoffman will create memorable dishes with ingredients from a number of local farms and artisanal food producers, including Sunny Daze Farm, Raz’s Organics, Pereira Honey, Johnston Orchard, Cascadia Creamery, Sandoz Farm and United Farms. The six courses will be paired with local wines from The Pines 1852, Sunshine Mill Winery, 15 Mile Winery and Moody Toll Bridge Winery. “The Dalles area has a rich agricultural tradition, and we are excited to welcome guests to experience the seasonal produce and wines that our farms and wineries have to offer this harvest season,” said Lisa Farquharson, president of The Dalles Area Chamber of Commerce. “We also invite attendees to make a weekend of it and explore all that The Dalles and the eastern end of the Columbia River Gorge Scenic Area have to offer.” Tickets for the event are $95 per person. Cousin’s Country Inn in The Dalles is offering special rates for event participants. For information, and to purchase tickets, contact The Dalles Area Chamber offi ce at (541) 296-2231, or go to thedalleschamber.com.

Painti ng by Vicki Shuck

8 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

A FOUR-COURSElocally-sourced meal by Chef Ben Stenn of Celilo Restaurant with local wine pairings, live music from

The June Bug Boys, and stunning views.

A FUNDRAISER FORGorge Grown Food Network:

Building a resilient & inclusive food system that improves the health

and well-being of our community

$85 per person

Sponsored by Riverhood Rentals, Celilo Restaurant & Bar, Kiyokawa Orchards

Tickets & Info: (541) 490-6420 . GorgeGrown.org . [email protected]

TAKE YOUR PLACEHARVEST DINNER . SEPT 27 . Kiyokawa Orchards

Photo: Jen Jones / Moxy Int’l.

AT THE EVENT THATCELEBRATES ALL THAT IS

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 9

Compostingmade easy

Earth Machine Compost Binsavailable at:

The Dalles Disposal Service Hood River Garbage Service Mel’s Sanitary Service, Inc.

Wasco Farm Store

make your own

FREECOMPOST

and have

HEALTHIERSOIL

and up to

30 PERCENTof your garbage

in only

10 MINUTESPER WEEK

eliminating up to

30 PERCENTof your garden

water bill

Tri-CountyHazardous Waste & Recycling ProgramHazardous Waste & Recycling Program

“The right brands, the right advice”541-386-3367 • 1-800-388-6018

1120 12th StreetOn The Heights • Hood River

Sign Up and customize your box from a variety of local organic farms.

Fresh from the Farm!• fresh produce • local wines &

specialty groceries • on-site bakery • feed & grain • garden center

Local favorites: Raw milk, Goat milk, Cascadia Creamery Cheese, farm eggs,

local chicken, pork and beef.

DICKEY FARMS STORE & BAKERY806 W STEUBEN ST. BINGEN, WA.

509.493.2636 EXT.1 - OPEN DAILY

A FOUR-COURSElocally-sourced meal by Chef Ben Stenn of Celilo Restaurant with local wine pairings, live music from

The June Bug Boys, and stunning views.

A FUNDRAISER FORGorge Grown Food Network:

Building a resilient & inclusive food system that improves the health

and well-being of our community

$85 per person

Sponsored by Riverhood Rentals, Celilo Restaurant & Bar, Kiyokawa Orchards

Tickets & Info: (541) 490-6420 . GorgeGrown.org . [email protected]

TAKE YOUR PLACEHARVEST DINNER . SEPT 27 . Kiyokawa Orchards

Photo: Jen Jones / Moxy Int’l.

AT THE EVENT THATCELEBRATES ALL THAT IS

Meet theNew Owners

The Johnston family:Toria, Zayleah, Jason and Wyatt

From the field to your fork ... call on usfor all your processing needs. Customslaughtering, cutting, wrapping, curingand smoking of livestock and game.

5605 Miller Rd. Parkdale 541•352•[email protected]

10 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

a LifeHARVESTINGTwo Gorge family farms survive, and thrive, through �ve generations By Kathy Watson

ary Sandoz Leighton draws a rough, farm-worn finger down the ledger page. The customer bought cabbage, carrots and turnips, and hasn’t paid his bill. There’s not much luck of Mary collecting, however. The debt is 131 years old. “They will forever owe 60 cents,” Mary says with a sigh. That the debt seems close, almost touchable on the yellowed page, is a testament to how the Sandoz family has held tenaciously to the land through five generations. Just 30 miles west along the Columbia River at Riverside Farms, five generations of the Morton (now Struck and Gay families) are as bound to their farm land, even though much of the land itself disappeared under the Bonneville pool. Through it all, these family farms survived, and are inventing new ways to harvest a life for the next generation.

Sandoz Farms Three Sandoz brothers, Swiss immigrants, bought their farm, located five miles south of The Dalles in the Mill Creek Valley, in 1880. Now Mary and her broth-ers Ted and Chuck, and their cousin Dan Sandoz, manage most of the farm, with plenty of help from other relatives … sisters and brothers-in-law, nieces and nephews. Don’t spend too much time sorting them out when you visit the farm stand. As any family that has been at something for so long, through so many generations, the family wheel is a kaleidoscope of marriages, divorces, births, deaths and untimely departures. The Sandozes today have not traveled far, literally or figuratively, from those early farm roots. Founding farmer Alphonse Sandoz was one of 12 Sandoz siblings, and the only one sent to horticulture college in Europe before six brothers immigrated to the Western United States.

The Sandoz Family, through the generations, including their fruit display at

the 1906 Lewis & Clark Exposition in Portland.

M

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 11

a Life

When Alphonse and two of his brothers took a ride up Mill Creek, the view of Mount Hood reminded them of the mountains in their Swiss homeland. It seemed like a good place to grow vegetables for the local market, and to plant apples, peaches, apricots and grapes. Ted, Mary and Dan stand under a shade tree on a hot July morning, and point out the wine grapes still growing on the hills above Dan’s house, which is one of the original Sandoz homes. “They made a lot of wine,” chuckles Dan. “And they drank it all themselves,” adds Ted with a grin. Next to Dan’s house is one of the original storage cellars, built into the hillside. The first Sandoz generation was selling root crops to local residents well into the winter months, according to that farm ledger, keeping vegetables and fruit safe with leaves and wood chips. When Highway 30 rolled by in the 1920s, it opened the Portland market for the first time. George Sandoz was often tasked with driving a loaded wagon in to the city to sell vegetables. A favorite

family story involves a particularly foggy day. After delivering in the city and heading toward home, George drove the Ford Model T truck up through the roundabout at Vista House. He became disoriented in the thick ground fog, and ended up circling and heading back to Portland. Today, farm management has settled into comfortable divisions. Dan manages about 100 acres of cherries. Mary tends to the cattle and gardens. Ted handles the haying. Chuck wrangles the chickens and eggs. Holly, Ted’s wife, raises the pigs and helps Mary run the farm stand and produce canned and pickled vegetables and cherry juice. It’s possible to pick up everything you need for an excellent dinner at the farm stand. (Open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., 5755 Mill Creek Road, The Dalles.) A freezer holds wrapped beef and pork, an

open cold case is full of fresh vegetables and eggs, and rows of picked carrots, kraut, relishes and jams line the shelves. The air-conditioned stand, with roll-up doors for more pleasant days, has a commercial kitchen in the back for canning and food prep.

•Featuring our own garden fresh produce•Homemade buns and flatbread crusts

•Locally sourced ingredientsOpen Friday thru Monday 10am-7pm

2265 Hwy 35, Hood River, OR(541) 386-2828

visit www.thegorgewhitehouse.comfor our menu

We keep you in the field!

Wasco, Oregon 1-800-824-7185

Serving all your agriculturalneeds for over 75 years.

AUTO&TRUCK PARTS

Dan Sandoz near the wine grapes his

great-grandparents planted.

12 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

At one point, Ted, Mary and Dan all le� the farm and went o� to college and jobs. But it was the lifestyle that called them back, says Ted. When asked to describe what that lifestyle is, Ted stares o� at the distant cherry trees. Mary and Dan look at each other and smile. It’s just hard for them to put into words. “To have the land, the ability to go out into the �elds that belonged to our grandparents,” says Ted �nally. “Keeping it up, taking care of it, and the scenery of the land.” Dan and Mary nod. It’s the beauty of it all. Today, says Mary, even with the diversi�cation they’ve achieved with the farm stand, cattle, pigs, eggs and cherries, “Somebody in the household has to work.” Mary worked for a vet clinic. Dan is a pipe �tter, Ted a farm equipment mechanic. We walk down the road between �elds and historic farm houses, and Mary points to three 11-year-old Sandoz boys, two cousins and an uncle (it’s that kaleidoscope of family relations again) moving irrigation equipment. �e three boys laugh and josh with each other like boys on a summer morning do. But they are also working for $5 a day—$7 if they work extra hard, says Mary. “�ey are our future, but they’ll have to go to college, and they’ll have to work

another job, just to keep the farm,” Mary says. Besides that next generation, the farm’s best hope for future success is water. �eir parents were wise enough to drill an artesian well in 1957, so deep and plentiful that pumps aren’t required. And then there’s Mill Creek itself: no surprise, the Sandozes have one of the earliest water rights on the stream. �eir biggest challenge in the next generation is labor. Without pickers, it’s all at risk, says Dan. Ted, on his lunch break, takes the golf cart down the road to show o� one more treasure: the barn. Built in 1868 just before the Sandozes bought the farm, its walls and ceiling are braced with square, hand-hewn timbers and wood pegs. Ted stands in the dappled light in the middle of the barn and turns in a circle. “We leave the door open just a crack, especially in the winter,” he says. �at way, the owls and bats can come in out of the weather, roost, hang out, and rest for a while. It’s the kind of care you’d expect from a family, �ve generations into a love a�air in the Mill Creek Valley.

Raising cattle is just one way Sandoz Farms has diversified

over the years. The next generation at work on the farm.

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 13

Our mission is to bring our customers fresh, naturalfoods with an artisan's touch while upholding ourbelief in local, organic and non-geneticallyengineered foods. We believe in what we do and areproud to bring the same quality to our customersas we bring to our own family's table.

We focus on high-quality,organic and local ingredients(often from our our farm).

We are committed to qualityingredients sourced locallyand regionally whenever we can.

M-F 7:30-3:30, Sat & Sun 8:00-3:[email protected] D Cascade Ave. Hood River, OR(inside Mall 202) (541)308-0246

LOCAL, ORGANIC AND MADE FROM SCRATCH IN HOOD RIVER, OR

301 Country Club Road • 541-386-3026www.vientowines.com • Open 12-5 Daily

Vineyard established in 1981

“Born inthe Gorge”Local grapes honestlycrafted by our family todeliver wines ofbalance, tradition, ourpersonal style and the“Sense of Place.”Our beautiful andcomfortable TASTINGROOM is a great spot tobegin your adventures inHood River.

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Representing 440 Pear, Apple & Cherry Growersand 20 Shipper Members in the Mid-Columbia

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Gorge Regional Loan Center320 E 4th Street, The Dalles

541-296-0779

Community BankGorge Regional Loan Center

At Community Bank,our relationship-focused businessbanking model allows us to provide thehighest quality of customer service found anywhere

When Theresa Draper, of Draper Girls Country Farm, was looking to refinance costly real estate debt to improve the orchard/U-pick fruit stand’s cash flow she came to Community Bank and John Gass. Working in conjunction with the USDA, John was able to structure a loan solution that not only met her needs but exceeded her expectations by saving her nearly $7,000 per year in loan payments. (l-r) Rachel, Stefanie, Crystal, and Theresa.

Britt Thomas SVP/Regional Credit [email protected]

John Gass VP/Commercial Loan [email protected]

Local Money Working For Local People

Founded in 1955 in Joseph, Oregon, Community Bank is proud to remain independent and locally owned. Our relationship-focused business banking model allows us to provide the highest quality of customer service found anywhere in the Gorge and is what sets us apart from everyone else. Our Gorge loan team brings you more than 70 years of cumulative commercial banking experience; providing all facets of lending, primarily focused on commercial and agricultural needs.

“John took the time necessary to learn and understand the true entrepreneurial nature of my business in order to craft a solution that was the right choice for me now, as well as into the future.” - Theresa Draper

in the Gorge. Our Gorge Loan team brings you more than 70 years of cumulative commercial banking experience; providing all facets of lending, primarily focused on commercial and agricultural needs.

Draper Girls Country Farm6200 HWY 35 Mt. Hood Parkdale, Oregon

www.drapergirlscountryfarm.com

Local Money Working For Local People

Member FDICwww.communitybanknet.com

14 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

Riverside Farms IF WATER is Sandoz Farms’ greatest asset, it is conversely Riverside Farms’ greatest bane. The knob of orchard land that juts out into the Columbia River just west of Hood River, held by the same family since the 1880s, is a mere shadow of its original splendor. The building of Bonneville Dam in 1938 condemned 220 acres of the farm to a watery grave. “And we still pay taxes on that 220 acres!” says Sue Gay. Gay recounts the farm’s story, beginning as the state’s first donation land claim in 1858, started by Amos Underwood, who also loaned his name to Underwood Mountain. Great-great-great-grandfather JW Morton bought the farm in 1886, and grew pears, apples, strawberries and asparagus. We don’t know if the early Morton and Sandoz families knew each other, but it stands to reason they might have. Until Highway 30 came in, the only access to Riverside Farms was from the river. That same highway eventually brought George Sandoz and his vegetables within spitting distance of Riverside Farms. You can almost imagine him stopping in for a cold cider, and offering to bring along the Morton’s asparagus and berries to the Portland market. And JW Morton was well known: President of Hood River Fruit Growers’ Union (in the days when Hood River was still a part of Wasco County). He also served in the Oregon legislature, and ran for the U.S. Senate and Oregon governor. In 1923, George Struck married the Morton’s daughter, Gladys, and kept farming. When Bonneville Dam wiped out most the farm’s land, Gay says the farm was essentially abandoned from 1938 to 1970, but never left the family’s hands. “It’s gone through a lot of turmoil since the Great Depression,” she says.

“There was always someone in the family who wanted to hold on, and would never agree to sell. It’s a miracle, really.” George and Gladys’s son James kept at it, on Riverside Farms’ land and on other land as well, and left for a time to study pomology (fruit growing) at Oregon State University. In 1958, he was named Hood River County’s Young Farmer of the Year. That there wasn’t enough land to support him didn’t deter him. He worked as an orchard consultant for FMC Corp, and even for farmers in the former Soviet Union. Like the Sandozes, outside jobs were required. James’s son Sheldon followed in his father’s footsteps, getting a college education, and then coming back to work his father and grandfather’s farms at Riverside and Odell. He married Sue, and they and their three kids made a life at the farm. In 1991, Sheldon’s untimely death meant another turning point for the farm. Would it survive such a serious reversal? Several years later, Sue married Tony Gay, a Hood River physician. He adopted the kids, and they dedicated themselves to making the farm work. History seems to compress down to a very thin line here when you see how strong the connections are to the past at both farms. The original Morton farmhouse has been remodeled and is Tony and Sue’s home today. There, running across the ceiling, are the original square, hand-hewn beams, identical to those in the Sandoz barn. And the dedication to the family farm is the same for both families. “We are committed to staying,” says Sue now. Three years ago, Sue, Tony

and their son Jordan started talking seriously about how to make that happen.

The answer, it seemed, was all around them: cider, from their apples. Tony,

the science guy, and Jordan, now production manager and “cider mastermind”

methodically began to research, test and produce cider from their Newton

apples, sold under the name Rivercider.

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 15

A Healthy Prepared Meal Service

305-942-1741Sarah Scaruto

© K

acie

McM

acki

n

First production: 2013. Construction of the cider barn: 2014. They do everything in-house at the farm. Their ciders ferment for 40 days, including 6 to 7 days in new American oak wine barrels. The cider goes still into the bottles but the addition of local honey in the bottle sets off a secondary fermentation, giving the cider its elegant and delicate bubbles. Cider bottled in kegs gets its bubbles from the addition of CO2. Last year: under 1,000 gallons total. This year: 1,500 gallons. Currently, they are making and bottling two varieties: Screech Owl, a very dry, pale cider, and Crazy Crow, a blackberry infused dry cider. Why blackberry? “Look around!” laughs Jordan, giving an arm sweep to the forever present, often nuisance, blackberry. Rivercider is available in Hood River in bottles and on tap at Volcanic Bottle Shoppe and the Moth Lounge, and in bottles at Rosauers.

Next year? “Portland is the biggest U.S. cider market,” says Jordan. With an eye to that market, he has some marketing help. Enter the capstone to the fifth generation: Samantha, Jordan’s wife. A year ago, they made the leap from Portland and moved back to the farm where Jordan grew up, nudging the cider business forward. Samantha is in charge of marketing and business development. And she and Jordan are in charge of something else: the sixth generation. Granger Morton Struck was born July 17.

Opposite page, Sue Gay and her son, Jordan Struck,

gaze at the 220 acres of their farm submerged under

water after the construction of Bonneville Dam.

Above, Jordan Struck’s new cider.

Samanth Struck holds Granger Morton Struck,

born July 17.

16 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

COOKING with kidsBy Kacie McMackin

I love to cook, and I love to cook with my kids. I spend a lot of time planning, shopping and cooking food for my family. We eat dinner together as a family every night and we generally expect our kids to eat what we eat. As a food writ-er, blogger and lover, having my kids enjoy food and eat well is very important to me, and I find that the best way to accomplish this is to get them involved in the kitchen. Getting kids involved in cooking has wonderful benefits: they practice patience, following directions and taking turns. They learn new skills like whisking, cracking eggs and turning the pepper grinder. There is nothing better than seeing a child beam with pride when she’s been entrusted with a “grown up job.” No matter how old your child is, there are new skills, challenges and lessons to learn in the kitchen. My daughters, who are two and four, love to help with all aspects of the family meal. They do everything from assembling the ingredients to setting the table. Their favorite types of meals are ones that require assembly, such as making pizzas with fresh vegetables from our garden.

I have them help make the pesto sauce, then I get all the other ingredients prepped to go on top of the pizza. They do a (pretty) great job taking turns adding ingredients like thinly sliced beets, shredded kale, pine nuts, goat cheese, and fresh herbs. They have so much fun cooking with me, and are always excited to see “their” meal served at the dinner table.

A few tips for cooking with kids:

• Adapt tasks for different ages. My four-year-old can whisk a salad dressing together, while my two-year-old loves to shake up a dressing once the ingredients are sealed in a small jar.

• Serve them meals that they can assemble. My kids love Posole since they get to add their own toppings like cilantro, sour cream, cojita, and radishes. Let kids assemble their own sandwiches like BLTs and add fun ingredients like avocado and basil.

• Encourage your kids to “taste” foods, rather than to “try” foods. The word “taste” is exploratory and fun. When we have a new food at our table, we all taste it together and talk about it.

• When cracking eggs, set out two bowls: one small bowl to crack each egg into and one for the eggs to get transferred to. It’s a lot easier to fish out shell shards from one egg at a time!

• Here are some great books about food and cooking with little kids: Foodie Babies Wear Bibs, by Michelle Sinclair Colman; three books by Lois Ehlert—Eating the Alphabet, Planting a Rainbow, and Growing Vegetable Soup; and To Market, to Market, by Nikki McClure.

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 17

S U P E R M A R K E T SQuality • Service • Selection

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We believe in supporting local vendors andfarmers right here in the Pacific Northwest.

PIZZA RECIPE

Kacie McMackin is a food writer, blogger and photographer, and founder

of gorgeinthegorge.com.

two balls of pizza dough

1 cup pesto

2 cups shredded mozzarella

1 red beet, peeled and very thinly sliced

1 cup shredded kale

1/4 cup toasted pine nuts

1/4 cup goat cheese

2-4 sprigs fresh thyme

Preheat your oven with a pizza stone to 400ºF.

Top a pizza paddle or the back of a baking sheet with a bit of corn meal. Working with one dough at a time, stretch out the pizza dough to the size you would like. Place the stretched dough onto the corn meal and give it a shake to make sure it will slide off easily when you transfer it to the oven. Divide the pesto between the two pizzas, followed by the mozzarella. Top each pizza with some of the beets, kale, pine nuts and goat cheese. Cook the pizzas, one at a time, until the cheese is bubbly and the crust is dark and golden on the sides and bottom. Sprinkle the finished pizzas with a bit of fresh thyme.

Soups / Salads / SandwichesCo�ee, Tea, Espresso & Desserts

Good food from the garden...prepared with cared food from thf fr r d iprepared wi

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18 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

COOL NIGHTS

Warm HARVEST

The colors at the fall farmers’ market are the best of the year: red beets, cordovan tomatoes, purple kohlrabi, orange squash, pink apples. Capture all that color on your dinner table.

By Kathy Watson

It’s a shame that the farmers’ market gets a bit quiet when the tourists leave and the kids go back to school. Because, people, that’s when the veggies are the most stupendous. Tomatoes have the deepest flavor, peppers beg to be roasted, fall squash land with a thud and pears and apples join the parade.

Here are three great ways to capture the season:

Spicy Vietnamese Kohlrabi SaladBeet and Apple salad with Gorgonzola Dressing and Pine Nut BrittleItalian White Bean and Fall Vegetable Stew

If a vegetable ever landed its own Sci-Fi show, it would no doubt be the kohlrabi. With its vibrant purple skin and weird protruding stems, it looks like an alien space ship hurtling toward earth.

But have no fear. This alien is no dangerous invader. It could be your favorite vegetable, if you only gave it a chance. If a giant crispy, mild radish married a mild-mannered turnip, they would give birth to … Kohlrabi Baby! Eat it raw! Eat it cooked! It’s two roots in one!

So what are we doing with this kohlrabi? Many years ago, I had the most amazing sweet, hot, sour, crunchy Vietnamese beef and lemon salad in the SOMA neighborhood of San Francisco. I couldn’t find the restaurant again on a bet. And I’ve never actually found a salad like that again either. But I keep trying to recreate it. The kohlrabi is the perfect foil for the beef, lemon, palm sugar, fish sauce, and spicy peppers. Since we almost always have a little leftover grilled beef in the fridge, it’s what I call, “Bonus!” Here’s how we do it:

Spicy Vietnamese Kohlrabi Salad

1 large purple or green kohlrabi (and the leaves, if you were lucky enough to buy this baby at the farmer’s market)

¾-1 lb leftover grilled beef such as tri tip or brisket1 ½ large lemons3 tablespoons fish sauce4 tablespoons crushed palm sugar, or white sugar3 small dried red chilies (you can use chili de arbol)Handful of basil leavesHandful of mint leaves½ cup chopped salted, roasted peanuts

Trim the leaves from the kohlrabi, removing the tough middle stem. Set four large leaves in a stack, roll them up, and slice across them so that you have long, thin strips. (Compost the other leaves, or save for a stir-fry.)

Trim all the stems off the kohlrabi and cut off and discard the tough stem ends. Cut the kohlrabi into the thinnest rounds you can manage. Lay 3-4 slices in a stack, and then cut across the stack to make long matchsticks. Keep cutting until you have 3 cups of kohlrabi matchsticks.

Slice the beef as thin as you can, and then cut each slice into long, thin strips.

Seed and stem the peppers, and crush in a mortar and pestle, or mince finely with a knife.

Zest the lemon and then juice it. Mix the juice, zest, sugar and fish sauce together in a small bowl and stir in the crushed red pepper. If you are a bit on the wimpy side, use less red pepper. THIS recipe is spicy; yes, you’re welcome.

Toss the kohlrabi, beef and dressing together. Scatter the whole herbs and peanuts across the top.

Serves: 6, as an appetizer or 4 as a main course salad. To take on a picnic, bring along some crunchy French rolls. Slice the rolls lengthwise, and pull out a bit of the soft middle. Fill with the beef salad and munch happily away. Beer is sort of a requirement.

PAIRS WELL WITH Viento 2012 Dry Riesling, Old Vines $22/bottle

Hood River Vineyard 2012 Riesling $14/bottle

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 19

Italian White Bean and Fall Vegetable StewWhen it’s cold, give me legumes. I love this next dish with giant, white Italian corona beans. We’re going to keep this dish vegetarian, but golly, if you’ve got some great sausages, throw them in. The trick to creating a vegetarian stew with some of that toothsome, meaty quality is to roast your vegetables rather than just cooking them with the beans. But don’t roast them much! This is not white bean mush. Cook the beans separately until tender, then add the roasted vegetables. Done.

1 lb corona beans1 yellow onion, chopped6 cloves garlic, chopped2 quarts vegetable stock (or chicken stock if you plan on adding sausage later)Fresh herbs: two 6-inch rosemary stalks, 6 thyme stalks, ½ bunch Italian parsley, chopped8 roma tomatoes, chopped1 cup white wine2 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons butter1 eggplant1 small butternut squash½ lb Hood River Organic crimini mushrooms4 mild peppers, such as Hungarian wax or Jimmy Nardello¼ cup good quality vinegar, such as muscatel

Soak the beans in water to cover overnight, then drain them. Sauté the onions in oil and butter until lightly brown, and add the garlic and sauté another minute. Add the wine, stock, herbs and tomatoes. Bring to a simmer, and cook until the beans are tender. Caution: these are big beans, and if you happen to buy some that are a bit old, they will take a LONG time to cook. The best way to hurry that along is to put a lid on the pot. Watch the water level. Keep adding water so the beans are swimming freely. When the beans are tender, season with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, cut the eggplant into 1-inch cubes. Peel the squash and cut it into 1-inch cubes. Seed the peppers, and cut them into 1-inch pieces. If the mushrooms are small, leave them whole. If not, cut them in half lengthwise. Toss the vegetables in olive oil, salt and pepper, and roast on a rimmed cookie sheet in a 400-degree oven until just tender, and covered with nice brown spots. When the beans are done, fi sh out the now-bare herb stems and discard. Add the roasted vegetables and vinegar and heat through. Serve with grated Parmesan or Grana Padana cheese and nice crusty bread. Oh yeah, throw in those sausages!

Solstice serves inventive, seasonal and organic wood �red pizza and cuisine sourced �om local Gorge farmers and purveyors we know and respect.

We know how food unites family, �iends and community.

Local pears grown by Siragusa Orchard

PAIRS WELL WITH

Viento 2014 Sangiovese Rosé, Chukar Ridge Vineyard $18/bott leVeggie version, Hood River Vineyard 2012 Chardonnay $16/bott le

Sausage added, Hood River Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir $25/bott le

606 Oak Street, Hood RiverPrivate Dining Space AvailableDinner nightly 5pm - 11:30pm

541.387.4344brianspourhouse.com

Brian’s Pourhouse crafts its menuaround the seasons of the Hood River Valley.

Savor the taste of wild-caught �sh,freshly foraged mushrooms and

heirloom produce from family farms.A Gorge institution since 1998.

20 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

Kathy Watson is a chef and

writer, and the former owner

of Nora’s Table and Viento

restaurants. She is currently

at work on a memoir, “No

Bun for Corky: My Life as a

Small-Town Chef.”

PAIRS WELL WITH

Viento Zinfandel, Volcano Ridge Vineyard 2012 $35/bott leHood River Vineyard 2006 Barbera $22/bott le

Beet and Apple Salad, Gorgonzola cream dressing, pine nut rosmary brittleAnd now for a little trip down memory lane. I created a lot of composed salads all those years at Nora’s Table. This is my favorite. Fall is a great time for this salad, when Randy Kiyokawa’s Mountain Rose apples are ready and beets are rolling off nearly every table at the farmers’ market. The combination of beets, apples and blue-veined cheese is an old-school no-brainer, right? What makes this my uber fave is the addition of a pine nut, black pepper and rosemary brittle, crushed and sprinkled across the top. Here ya go:

Gorgonzola cream dressing8 ounces Gorgonzola cheese (or blue cheese if you prefer)1/2 cup buttermilk1/2 cup Best Foods olive oil mayo (or your own homemade)1 shallot1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire1/2 teaspoon black pepper2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons white balsamic or other mild, sweet vinegar

Salt to tasteBlend with a hand blender

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FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 21

LAUREN KRAEMER

1009 12th St. Hood River • Serving breakfast and lunch541-386-4203 • Open 7 Days

Why Shop Farm Standin the Gorge?

What we do to support this . . .• All the Produce in our Establishment isOrganic. We source from our local farmers!

• We offer 9 taps of Local & House madeKombucha, and are an authorizedBullet Proof Coffee house.

• We hand make Organically all our own:Deli Salads, Dressings& Mayonnaise, Soups, BreakfastSausages, Smoothies and much more.

• The only Oils we use are OrganicCoconut, Sunflower & Olive.

- We bring Delicious, Healthy,Life Giving Foods to a diverseCommunity of Foodies &Eaters while supportingawesome Local Growersand Culinary Alchemists!

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Pine Nut Rosemary Brittle Prepare a cookie sheet by lining it with foil. Rub butter on the foil, or spray it with pan spray. Get out your favorite metal spatula (offset is great), and butter or spray the bottom of it. Set aside.

Place these ingredients in a two-quart saucepan:

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons white sugar ¼ cup water 1/3 cup light corn syrup ¾ teaspoon salt

Bring to a simmer and stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar dissolves, then raise the temp, and don’t stir, until the mix reaches 264 degrees on a candy thermometer. You may have to tip the pot to get the ingredients against the thermometer to check temp.

Immediately add:

1 ¾ cups pine nuts ¼ cup chopped rosemary 2 teaspoons black pepper

Stir carefully with wooden spoon (it will be VERY

thick) and cook until mixture reaches 310 degrees.

Remove from heat and immediately add:

1 tablespoon butter ½ teaspoon soda powder Stir quickly. Pour out onto the foil-lined pan, and spread thin with the spatula. Set aside until cool. Break into pieces and put in airtight container. Do not refrigerate or goo will ensue.

To compose the salad: 3 Mountain Rose apples 3 large beets of equal size (about the same circumference as the apples) Arugula

Roast or steam the whole beets, then peel when they are cool. Slice thin in rounds. Slice the apples in rounds (don’t peel), lifting out the seeds with a pairing knife. To serve, place a few arugula leaves on a saladplate. Put a small pool of Gorgonzola dressing on the plate. Intersperse slices of apple and beet and lay on top of the dressing and arugula. Place several pieces of brittle in a zip lock bag, and crush with a rolling pin. Sprinkle on top of the beets and apples.

Steve StegallLocal Artist for 40+ Years

A Gathering of Spirits

Like us on Facebookfor upcoming events & new artwork

www.agatheringofspirits.com

Local wood, stone & antleralong with a huge variety of exoticmaterials from around the world.

Art can be viewed in the Gorge at theHarvest Festival and the Columbia Centerfor the Arts. Special show in the “Nook”

for the month of December.

22 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

Ben Stenn brings the fall season

to a Celilo dinner plate.

3 reasons to eat out this fallCelilo, Vintage Grill and Water’s Edge Bistro bring us three dishes anchored by local fall fruits and vegetables

By Kathy Watson

Celilo Restaurant, Hood River: Grilled peppers, corn, chanterelle mushrooms, arugula cream Things that go together: Lock and key, soap and water, Bogey and Bacall. You get the idea. Chef Ben Stenn would add: corn and chanterelle mushrooms. “It’s based on the idea that things that show up together, belong together,” he says as he sautés the Dickey Farms corn and Mount Adams chanterelles lightly in olive oil. Long a practitioner of farm-to-table cooking, Stenn focuses his menu on what the seasons provide, and many local farmers arrive at his kitchen door each week. On the cusp of fall, Stenn pairs the sweet corn and earthy mushroom with Anaheim chilies from Wildwood Farm. He seeds, then grills the pepper, leaving the slightly charred skin intact to bring the caramelized flavor to the plate. For a bright herbal accent, he uses the corn cobs (he calls them “corn bones”) to make a corn stock as the base for an intensely green arugula cream sauce: Zion Farms arugula, reduced cream and that corn stock, blended until smooth. A final kiss and acidity comes from a sprinkle of sheep’s milk feta across the top. “But you could really use any crumbly cheese if you wanted to make this at home,” Stenn advises, including fresh Mexican cotija from the mercado. And to drink alongside? Stenn recommends a nice bottle of Syncline Rosé from the Celilo wine list.

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 23

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24 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

Vintage Grill, Hood River Hotel: Bone-in Pork Shank confit, fresh shell and yellow beans, fall peppers two ways The bright lights, big city of Portland are now in Jason Barwikowski’s rear view mirror. And that’s just the way he likes it. He and his wife grew up in small towns in the West, and Barwikowski longed for the feel of a fly fishing rod in his hand again. He left behind a string of successful chef gigs—Woodsman Tavern, Clyde Common, Olympic Provisions—to take the chef position at Vintage Grill, the restaurant nested inside the Hood River Hotel. He’s slowly adding his Oregon farm-to-table touch to the primarily Southern-focused menu at the Grill. This fall, he’s turning local fresh beans and sweet and hot peppers into tight companions for a bone-in pork shank. In August, Barwikowski used yellow pole beans for this dish, but by September, he’ll transition, along with the harvest, to fresh shell beans. What are fresh shell beans, you ask? When pole and bush beans hang on to the vine past their mid-summer glory days, the beans inside the pod start heading toward the dry, starchy state of dried beans, the ones you buy in the bag for navy bean soup. But they’re not there yet. They’re still just moist enough to be something entirely different: not tender, not dried, but oh so good sautéed with onions and herbs, and fresh strips of roasted peppers, which is exactly what Barwikowski does. And then he takes a mix of sweet and hot peppers, and cooks them down ever so slowly over three hours with garlic, onions, herbs, carrots, Cherokee purple tomatoes and a splash of vinegar and wine until they are mahogany red-brown. He gives it all a gentle ride through a food mill, just to lay on the velvet. Barwikowski cooks the Carlton Farms pork shanks nice and slow the old fashioned confit way: submerged in fat and herbs, to a tender and succulent crescendo. When you order it, that shank gets a dip in the deep fryer, which preserves all its porky juiciness and adds a nice crust. Then that gathered nest of beans and peppers opens its arms wide for a crispy pork shank, swathed in velvety pepper sauce, and a handful of roasted almonds.

Jason Barwikowski with the perfect fall marriage

of pole beans, pork shank and sweet peppers.

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 25

Water’s Edge Bistro, The Dalles: Pear Flatbread Most restaurants want to cater to your taste buds and send you away full and satisfied. Water’s Edge Bistro in The Dalles would like you to leave healthier, too. The bistro is part of the Mid Columbia Medical Center’s Water’s Edge health complex that includes a spa, fitness center, and a number of health services, from diabetes education to cardiac rehab. If you’re tempted to think “hospital food!” … don’t. The Bistro, as well as MCMC, are committed to serving as much local, freshly prepared food as possible, no easy task in a big food service operation with a lot of competing interests and dietary considerations. But, says Michelle Bell, the Bistro’s manager, the farm trucks do roll in: mushrooms and strawberries from Hood River Organic; lettuce, tomatoes and cucumbers from Nature’s Finest in Parkdale to name-drop a couple. You can keep an eye on those local veggies at the Bistro’s open kitchen, where staff can be seen making smoothies from scratch, or preparing their

pear flatbread. Just coming up on the Bistro’s fifth anniversary, Bell says this is one of its customers’ long-time favorite dishes. With this year’s pear harvest in full-swing, the dish gets fresh organic pears. The 12-inch flatbread is brushed with garlic-infused olive oil, then topped with applewood-smoked bacon, blue cheese, caramelized onions, local honey, and those organic pears from Hood River Organic.

-------------------------------

Fall: easy pickings. Winter? Not so much. But if you have the pleasure of living in the Gorge through the winter, it’s great to know that many of our farmers are growing and harvesting year round now, with the advent of hoop houses. And even though your local farmer’s market won’t be operating in December, local chefs are still working with farmers, bringing whatever they can find that’s fresh and local to their menus.

Michelle Bell at Water’s Edge Bistro shows off the pear flatbread with organic Gorge pears.

26 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

NOT YOUR AVERAGE

School LunchMosier Schools brings fresh, local ingredients and scratch cooking to the cafeteriaBy Matt Landi

The small, brightly-lit school cafeteria was filled with the buzz of lunchtime. In the front of the room stood three volunteers with aprons on, serving food to a line of buzzing young students. On the menu this day at Mosier Schools (which includes Mosier Community School and Mosier Middle School) was a baked potato bar, complete with fresh broccoli, cream cheese and even an option for soy bacon bits. For dessert there was fresh fruit. And from the looks of it, just about everyone seemed satisfied. And this was no anomaly. Other menu options, served on a rotating basis, include salmon patties, broccoli, beans and rice, lentil soup, yakisoba noodles and even old stalwarts like pizza. According to Susan Vallie, food service director for Mosier Schools, the goal is to serve whole foods, some of which are sourced from right here in the Gorge—including from the garden

adjacent to the school’s playground. In order to take advantage of what both the Gorge and the garden have to offer, the menu at the school follows the seasons. “We use a two season menu which can easily be enhanced with what is available,” Vallie says. In some circles, school lunch has earned a reputation for lacking in healthy options—even becoming a satirical target at times. In communities such as Mosier, this is far from the truth. According to Vallie, flexibility—par-tially a result of Mosier’s status as a charter school—has certainly played a role in allowing it to be creative in its offerings. “We have 100 percent indepen-dent purchasing decisions,” she says. “Whenever possible, we have sourced from local growers directly. As long as we follow the federal guidelines for a nutrition based meal, we have autonomy.” In this, they are able to work within the system but also make decisions that are both healthy and sup-portive of eating locally produced food. “In order to maintain federal meal funding, our overall menus must be approved by the Oregon Department of Education,” Vallie says. “But we are free to swap out mixed green salad for kale from our garden when we have the opportunity.” While the garden doesn’t yet make up a huge percentage of Mosier Schools’ lunch offerings, Heather Clemons, a middle school teacher at Mosi-er who is the acting garden coordinator, can still clearly see the impact its presence has in connecting kids with their food source. As Clemons puts it, “If you were to say we were going to have Swiss chard to a typical elementary school student, they might say ‘Ew.’ But in this case, since they have picked it themselves, they’re running around saying, ‘This is awesome.’”

Darlene Ramirez and Armando Rodriguez

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 27

In addition, since one of the primary goals of the garden is keeping kids excited and engaged, there’s also what Clemons calls the “big” factor. This means keeping excitement up with crops like sunflowers and pumpkins, while still leaving room for some of that excitement to be around food, planting items for fall harvest such as potatoes. Notes Clemons, “Digging them up is like Christmas. While our goal is to grow our own vegetables, it’s also to get kids’ hands dirty and keep them engaged.” While offering healthy lunch options is a vital part of any health and wellness related school endeavor, tying it to classroom curriculum is what helps close the loop. While the garden itself plays a big role in this—many of the plant starts are grown right in the classroom—there are other ways that Mosier incorporates this as well. “General nutrition education happens in the classroom in a variety of ways,” says Vallie, “whether it’s making homemade salsa with local produce, or dried pears which the students picked themselves from a local orchard.” All of these exercises help kids form a lifelong connection to food, its impact on their health and even where it comes from. That was the goal of Melody Acosta back in 2003. A registered dietitian whose children attended Mosier Schools a few years ago, she helped set the program on the path that it still follows today. “When I first started, the kids were eating peanut butter and

jelly sandwiches that came frozen,” she recalls. Acosta and a group of parent volunteers decided to take the reins. “We just did some menu planning and decided it would be economically feasible to cook from scratch and hire a cook rather than buy the convenience food that was being offered,” Acosta says. It took several years of hard work and trial and error, but upon hiring Sharon Kahler as the cook, the program started to take off. Kahler, who retired at the end of last school year, started off slowly, cooking from scratch two days a week, while Acosta, using her knowledge as a dietitian, worked to keep the menu up to speed with school lunch regulations. As with any big change, there was an adjust-ment period, especially for the students. “It took some training of the children,” Acosta recalls. “At first they refused to eat things like brown rice.” With the commitment intact, Acosta and her team made the effort to get them involved, something that continues today. “Once tofu was approved as an acceptable school lunch option, we set up a tasting table using different recipes and then had the kids vote,” she says. “The win-ning recipe subsequently made it on the menu.” It wasn’t just the students who needed convincing. While the parents and school board were both committed, the local district (Mosier Schools is part of North Wasco County School District 21) had some reservations at first. As

Acosta put it, “The district told us, ‘You won’t be able to sustain it financially.’ But with the right people in place, we were able to.” In the face of a long time trend among school lunch programs, which have seemingly become more and more institutionalized, with fewer options and a more concentrated supply chain, the recent pushback from some communities has been notable. At Mosier, it’s primarily been about parental and volunteer involvement when it comes to making change. Acosta echoes a familiar lyrical reference when she says, “If you’re not part of the solution, then you are part of the problem.” She adds, “Any community can start small. One day per week, have soup made from scratch.” While it’s easy to conclude that smaller school systems and charter schools are in a better position to be creative with their lunch offerings, according to Vallie, that has been of little consequence in Mosier. Even as the student population has more than doubled in the last decade, the commitment to healthy and local lunch offerings has remained. “We grew from 75 to over 200 students with very little change,” she says. “We’ve decided that it’s just what we do.”

Matt Landi is a food writer who works with

Portland-based produce distributor Organically

Grown Company. He lives in Hood River with his

wife and two children.

Amilie Wilt and Darlene Ramirez.

At right, Jamie Gomez and Piper Lawson.

28 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

There is something magical about seeing rows of home-canned foods stacked on the shelf in the pantry. There is a beauty in being able to see through the glass and feel a connection to your food, knowing you had a hand in it. No fancy labels or opaque tin to mask the appearance of juicy summer peaches or pickled dilly beans. The rainbow of color invites your eyes to wander from one jar to the next and imagine future meals and potlucks, graced by your impres-sive food preservation skills. As I gaze upon my own canned goods, each one holds a memory. I can feel the heat of hot summer afternoons picking beets and carrots to bring in from the garden to can. Perhaps you recall your own garden, trips to the farmer’s market, or the chilly April morning you landed that huge Chinook in the spring run. Some of us like looking at our jars so much we ration them to keep more food on the shelf and end up with lots left to eat when the next season’s produce comes pouring in. Authors of canning recipe books tout the many benefits of home food preservation, including greater connection to your food, ability to control or eliminate additives and preservatives, greater resiliency and preparedness in times of emergency or natural disaster, an automatic gift basket supply, and a savings account of valuable food that can feed your family. I love all of these reasons and each one brings different types of students into our food

preservation classes. As many of my students know, we spend a great deal of time discussing the dual goals of safety and quality in food preservation and how to achieve both in our products. We discuss the science and theory of how food preservation works and emphasize the science over the art, urging students to understand when it is safe to be creative and when it is better to color within the lines. Pressure canning is one of those food preservation methods that relies most heavily on tested, approved recipes and a strictly adhered-to practice to avoid potentially deadly outcomes. Of the preservation methods, it is the newest kid on the block, developed only about 200 years ago. This pales in comparison to dehydrating or fermenting which have histories that number in the thousands of years. Some students are surprised to hear that the first cases of botulism from canned foods came shortly after the first pressure canner was patented in the 1850s. We knew just enough about food safety and germ theory in the mid-nineteenth century to kill ourselves. John Snow was still working out the cholera epidemic in London, finally tracing it to a contaminated water pump on Broad Street, and Louis Pasteur was beginning to identify how bacteria traveled, on particles in the air, not actually the air itself as miasma theory had claimed.

Lauren M. Kraemer, MPH,

is a family and community

health instructor with

the Oregon State

University Extension

Service in Hood River.

She holds a master of

public health degree from

Oregon State University,

with a focus on family and

community health.

harvestPRESERVING THE

An Extension Agent’s Take on Pressure CanningBy Lauren M. Kraemer

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 29

And because you can’t see, smell, or taste it, there was no way to tell your food had spoiled before eating it or serving to friends and family. We hear stories about pressure canners exploding, or the lids blowing off, putting a hole in the kitchen ceiling. Cases of botulism occur annually and the dangers of home canning spread through the media. The whoosh of the steam venting and the techni-cal-looking dial gauge are enough to frighten any-one away from trying to can their own meat, fish, vegetables, beans, and other mixtures like soups and sauces. While I won’t negate any of this, I will say that with a little exposure and practice, you can can with the best of them and keep yourself safe. My hope is to provide a few tips and remind-ers so that you feel empowered to preserve—not paralyzed by fear. I want you to be able to gaze upon your own rows of preserved goods and delight in their beauty and the effort you took to do it your-self, knowing there isn’t always a price to put on that type of achievement.

1) Dial-gauge pressure canners MUST be tested every year for accuracy. Local Extension Offices in both Wasco and Hood River County do this for free and often on-the-spot—though call first if you want to come in and have your canner tested right away. Wasco: (541) 296-5494 Hood River: (541) 386-3343

2) Tested, current, approved recipes MUST be used when preserving foods to ensure safety. The OSU Extension website and the National Center for Home Food Preservation provide an abundance of tested recipes that, when followed exactly, will result in a safe product that can sit on your shelf without the potential to develop botulism. Be wary of recipes that are older than 1988 (processing times changed that year) or those that don’t provide details about headspace, processing time, or other key recipe information. OSU Webpage: http://extension.oregonstate.

edu/fch/food-preservationNCHFP Webpage:

http://nchfp.uga.edu/index.html

3) Getting a good seal is only part of the equation. Just because your jar sealed doesn’t mean your pro-cess has rendered the food safe. Many folks simply invert their jam and jelly jars after filling and rely on a “thermal seal” which can still result in the pro-liferation of molds, yeasts, and other bad bacteria. High-acid foods like fruits still require processing in a boiling water canner, which reaches 212 degrees Fahrenheit, to be shelf-stable and safe. In low-acid foods like meats, seafood, vegetables, and

mixtures a sealed jar means an anaerobic (no oxygen) environment now exists and this allows for the botulism bacteria spore to begin producing deadly toxin. Low acid foods must be pressure canned for the appropriate time, at the appropriate pressure in a pressure canner (not a pressure cooker) that can reach 240 degrees Fahrenheit—hot enough to kill the spores.

4) Ask the experts if you have questions and don’t go it alone. OSU Extension operates a hotline throughout the preservation season to help answer your food preservation questions: The hotline at (800) 354-7319 runs 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday thru Friday from July 13 to Oct. 16. You can also email me at [email protected] and I will help answer your questions.

5) When in doubt, throw it out. If you have re-ceived a jar of food from someone, don’t hesitate to ask how it was processed and what recipe was used.

Your health is irreplaceable and good preservers should be able to describe their process in detail. If something was processed poorly or you have concerns, throw it out. If jars of food are oozing, leaking, bulging, popping, have an off-odor, mold, or spurt liquid upon opening—do NOT taste-test the contents, throw out the food and sanitize any surfaces that came in contact with the food or liquid.

There is nothing like opening a home-canned jar of vine-ripened summer tomatoes in the middle of January to give you a sense of pride in your accomplishments—especially if you know that jar was safely processed and there is no need for concern or second guessing your recipe or methods as you enjoy it. Happy Preserving!

Hyacinth Kwatashin of The Dalles.

30 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

From the mountain to the river, these are your local farmers, growers, and producers — working hard to provide fresh produce year-round.

Who’s yourFARMER

A&J ORCHARDS. LLC Hood River, [email protected], pears and cherries. Family owned and operated for 100 years! Pick up fruit at the orchard or delivery available. Gresham Saturday market and institutional.

ACREE’S FARMSHood River, [email protected] family owned business. Sweet Red Cherries (July ) Red Haven Peaches and O’Henry Peaches (Aug-Sept). The Cherries are U Pick (bring containers) or ready pick on order. [email protected], Phone Calls & U Pick

ANNIE’S APRICOTSThe Dalles, ORAnnie’s Apricots on [email protected] Tree-Ripened U-Pick Apricots. Five varieties. Ready July 4th - early August. Call for availability. Individual Consumers, U-Pick

BERGIN’S ORGANIC CUSTOM SEEDS, LLC. Monument, [email protected] (seeds). Dedicated to the res-toration and preservation of nutrient dense heirloom seeds. We do contract production for small-acreages, including seed cleaning.

BLUE BUS CULTURED FOODSWhite Salmon, [email protected] fermented vegetable products and kombucha. Half acre of organic vegetables, rest sourced as locally as possible. Organic, live, raw, vegan, gluten free and full of probiotics. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, CSAs, Retail; 415 W. Steuben St, Bingen, WA.

BLUE MOON STEAD LLCWhite Salmon, [email protected], herbs. Dryland garlic, herbs and heirloom vegetables grown without poisons, Blue Moon Stead is my personal effort toward improving my land and feeding my world. Commercial, Restaurants

BLUE RIBBON BLUEBERRIESHood River, [email protected]. Our blueberries are organically grown using only natural fertilizers. No herbicides or pesticides. Call or email for availability. Consumers, Farmers’ Markets

BLUE SKIES BAKERY Husum, WAwww.blueskiesbakery.comblueskiesbakery@gorge.net509-876-7395Bread and Granola. We are a family owned and operated wholesale bakery, located in the shadow of Mt Adams. We bake our breads and granolas with a combination of organic, local, and non-GMO ingredients. Commercial, Restaurants, Farmers’ Markets.

BROKEN BOULDER FARMGoldendale, [email protected], Berries, Plants (starts, seeds, native plants), Lavender, herbs, flowers. Pesticide free and sustainably grown. Lavender agriculture at its fragrant best. Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands

CAMP 1805 DISTILLERYHood River, [email protected] Spirits. Craft Distillery making Whiskey, Vodka and Rum on site. Full bar with food and tasting room. Direct sales to the public from our tasting room. Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets

CASA VERDE CSAHood River, [email protected]. Weekly home-delivery of local, organic veggies to Hood River and White Salmon, March-October. Customize your order and delivery schedule. We specialize in June tomatoes. Institutional, Restaurants, Consumers, CSAs

CASCADIA CREAMERYTrout Lake, WAwww.cascadiacreamery.commarci@cascadiacreamery.com509-395-9339CheeseSmall, family-owned creamery that produces hand crafted certified organic aged, raw cheeses. We get our amazing milk from a nearby 4th generation dairy farm. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets CSAs

CODY ORCHARDSHood River, ORwww.codyorchards.comthefarmerinodell@gmail.com541-354-1085Vegetables, Berries, Fruit, Honey, Flowers.

Peaches, pears, U-pick farm. We are a3rd generation family farm. Individual Consumers, Farmstands

COLUMBIA BLOSSOM ORGANIC ORCHARDSMosier, ORwww.ColumbiaBlossom.comjim@columbiablossom.com541-478-2084Fruit, Wine. Family-owned operation producing peaches, cherries, nectarines, plums, apricots, table grapes and wine grapes. Certified organic by Oregon Tilth for over 20 years. No u-pick. Commercial, Consumers. Call to add name to list for seconds.

COLUMBIA GORGE GARLICWhite Salmon, [email protected], Fruit. Certified Organic Seed Garlic, Basil, Winter Squash. We are a family owned business and have been certified organic through WA., for 18 years. Specialize in 60 varieties of seed garlic. Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands

COLUMBIA GORGE GLUTEN FREEBingen, ORwww.columbiagorgeglutenfree.comteresa@gorgeglutenfree.com541-387-0343Gluten Free Baked Goods. Woman owned bakery using locally sourced products to create delectable delights that you won’t even know it’s missing the wheat! Restaurants. Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Online

CUTFLOWERS FOR YOUHood River, [email protected]. Small family farm providing locally grown, chemical-free, seasonal cut flowers for CSA members, weddings, special events and farmers markets. Commercial, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, CSAs, Farm pick-up.

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 31

DAVIS FAMILY FARMUnderwood, WAHoney, Pork, Seed garlicDavis Family Farm produces certified organic garlic, and heritage breed pork raised on pasture with additional feed from a Washington producer of a mixed non-GMO feed. Consumers, Custom exemp for pork; wholesale for garlic.

DICKEY FARMSBingen, [email protected] ext 1Vegetables, Berries, Fruit, Eggs and Bakery. The farm supplies store in Bingen on Hwy 14. Dickey’s Corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, squash, peaches, apricots, cherries. Local dairy, poultry, pork and beef. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumers.

DRAPER GIRLS COUNTRY FARMParkdake, ORwww.drapergirlscountryfarm.comdraper.girls@yahoo.com541-490-8113Vegetables, Berries, Fruit, Honey, Eggs, Flowers, Lamb and Goat. Family run u-pick cherries, peaches, plums, nectarines, strawberries, corn, apples and pears. Non-pasteurized apple, pear, and cherry ciders. Grass-fed lamb and goat. Fruits and vegetables available in our farm store. Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands

EMERSON DELL FARMThe Dalles, [email protected], Soft White Wheat and DNS wheat berries. Emerson Dell Farm is a fifth generation family farm founded in 1883. We raise crops and cattle using no-till practices and a focus on healthy soils, animals, and food. Consumers, Online

EMPANADAS MARIA ELBAHood River, ORwww.empanadasmariaelba.comempanadasmariaelba@yahoo.com541-490-1902Delicious empanadas made in the traditional Chilean fashion using grandmother’s recipe. Using the highest quality ingredients and sourcing locally asmuch as possible. Consumers, Food truck

FLOURISH FARM FLOWERSHood River, ORFlourishFarmFlowers.comnicole@flourishfarmflowers.com715-781-9818Farm flowers grown using organic methods for your wedding, event, business, and home. Wholesale flowers. Flower CSA. A diverse array of perennials and annuals. Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, CSAs, Wedding and Event Arrangements

GREEN MOUNTAIN RANCHunderwood, [email protected], Berries, Fruit, Lamb, Poultry, Flowers. We are a mom and pop op-eration in Underwood. Whole natural, humanely produced lamb, cut to the cus-tomer’s order, available in the fall. Apples and pears and a big garden with zinnias and dahlia flowers. Consumers, Gorge farmer’s market, other farmers’ Markets, Farmstands, Online

GREEN PASTURES FARMTrout Lake, [email protected] and sometimes raspberries. Free range, vegetarian feed, lots of indoor barn space for the winter, no medications except vaccinations, chickens that are free to live chicken lives. Commercial, Restau-rants, Consumers, CSAs, On the farm

GROW ORGANIC / FIDDLE FARMSHood River, ORwww.groworganics.orgconnect@groworganics.org541-632-3478Vegetables, Fruit, Honey, Eggs, Flowers, Plants (starts, seeds, native plants, etc.) Certified Naturally Grown Vegetable farm (Fiddle Farms). Sell at our local farmer’s markets in the area. We also have a farm and garden store in town called Grow Organic where we sell our eggs and honey. Consumers, Cooperative CSA , Farmers’ Markets, CSAs

GUNKEL ORCHARDSGoldendale, WAwww.gunkelorchards.comfruit@gunkelorchards.com509-773-4698Vegetables, Fruit, Honey. Maryhill Premium Brand Fruit is grown along the Columbia. Peaches, cherries, nectarines, apricots and wine grapes are hand-picked and the fruit stand is open daily all sum-mer. Commercial, Restaurants, Consum-ers, Wineries, Farmers’ Markets, Maryhill Fruitstand.

HAYLIFT GARDENMosier, [email protected]. Specializing in heirlooms sus-tainably grown. Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets

HILDA’S ORGANIC U�PICKHood River, ORhildasorganicupick.comsparkyparker@yahoo.com541-490-8212Vegetables, Berries, Fruit, Flowers. U-Pick organic cherries, blueberries, peaches, ap-ples, plums, melons, heirloom tomatoes, herbs, beets, kale, garlic, peppers, and more! Beautiful bucolic setting on fruit loop. Farmstand, Consumers, U-Pick

HOOD RIVER ORGANICPo Box 1550Hood River, ORhoodriverorganic.comcsa@hoodriverorganic.com541-354-2111Vegetables, Berries, Fruit, Dairy, Cheese, Honey, Eggs, Beverages, Condiments, Nuts, Coffee. Hood River Organic is your local farm and food producer cooperative CSA. We offer order customization and a flexible pay as you go structure. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, CSAs

HOOD RIVER PEACHESHood River, ORHood River Peaches on [email protected]. 20 different kinds of peaches and nectarines Aug-Sept. Small owner run farm with variety tastings by appt. Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Fresh at the farm

HOOD RIVER VINEYARDS & WINERYHood River, ORwww.hoodrivervineyardsandwinery.comhoodriverwines@gmail.com541-386-3772Hood River Vineyards is the Gorge’s oldest winery. We are family-owned and operated, and grow and make table wines, ports, sherry, and hard cider. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumers, Tasting room, special events at other locations

HUMBLE ROOTS NURSERYMosier, [email protected] (starts, seeds, native plants, etc.) Ethically propagated native plants of the Gorge and Pacific Northwest. Consumers, Agencies, Non-profit organizations and Landscapers. Farm sales, contract growing.

IDIOT’S GRACEMosier, [email protected], EggsIdiot’s Grace is a family farm and certified organic grower of tree fruits and wine grapes in Mosier, Oregon. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands, U-pick

JAMES’ ORGANIC BLUEBERRIES Hood River, [email protected]. U-PICK blueberries, certified or-ganic by Oregon Tilth. Child-friendly farm has six varieties of heirloom berries on 45-year-old bushes, varieties of chickens and turkeys to visit. Call for availability in July. Restaurants, Farmers’ Market, The Farm Stand.

JEFFERIES RANCH BEEFGrass Valley, [email protected] and hormone free, free range grass feed beef. Consumers, Farmers’ Markets

KELLY WHEAT PANCAKE AND WAFFLE MIXThe Dalles, [email protected] wheat pancake and waffle mix. Wheat flour for our mix is locally grown in the Columbia Gorge on land that has been farmed by the Kelly family for five generations. Commercial, Consumers, Online

32 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

KIYOKAWA FAMILY ORCHARDSParkdale, [email protected], Berries, Fruit, Beverages, Jams, jellies, and apple cider. Family- owned and operated farm since 1911. Local and sustainably grown produce, some certified organic, and utilize a farm management system that incorporates best practices. Commercial, Institutional, Restaurants, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands

KLICKITAT BISON COMPANYCenterville, WAwww.klickitatbison.commaryjean@centurylink.net509-773-4450Bison. Grassfed bison raised without antibiotics or hormones on chemical-free high prairie pastures. Field-slaughtered and processed locally. Available by whole or half. Ground and steaks available by the pound. Lean and flavorful, bison is the original red meat. Consumers.

LEFEVER HOLBROOK RANCHGoldendale, [email protected], Berries, Beef, Pork, Lamb, Poultry, Flowers, Plants (starts, seeds, native plants, etc.) Grass finished beef and lamb, no hormones, antibiotics or GMOs, stress free. Humane treatment of our food animals and respect our land. Commer-cial, Restaurants, Individual, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands, CSAs, Online

MARKET FRUIT INC. PACKER ORCHARDS AND BAKERYHood River, ORwww.packerorchardsandbakery.com541-234-4481Vegetables, Berries, Fruit, Honey. Full Bakery, everything prepared on site, ice cream, milkshakes and farm made jams. Consumers, Farmstands

MARYHILL WINERYGoldendale, WAwww.maryhillwinery.comcassiec@maryhillwinery.com509-773-1976Wine. 2015 Pacific NW Winery of the Year by Wine Press Northwest, 50+ award-win-ning wines, views of Mt. Hood and the Columbia Gorge, picnicking, tasting room and gift shop. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumers, Online or at winery

MORALE ORCHARDS LLC Hood River, OR [email protected]. Morale Orchards is a female owned orchard specializing in Asian Pears. Commercial

MORGAN & SONS HONEY COMPANYThe Dalles, [email protected]. Family Owed Business since 1977 in The Dalles, OR. We have about 800 Bee Hives. Our Honey is Pure unpasteurized Honey, we also have Pure Beeswax. Commercial, Institutional, Restaurants, Consumers. We sell Honey out of our home on the Farm. Farmers’ Markets

MT HOOD WINERYHood River, [email protected] 541-386-8333Wine. Family owned and operated winery located on the Bickford Family Century Farm. 20 acres specializing in estate grown Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Commercial, Online, Customer visits and direct sales

MT VIEW ORCHARDSParkdale, ORMtvieworchards.comMtvieworchards@gmail.com541-352-6554Vegetables. Berries. Fruit. Honey, Pumpkin patch, cider, hard cider. Small family multigenerational farm that grows fruit with our farming friends in our minds. We love being farmers and invite you to taste and see our harvests each year. Institu-tional, Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands, CSAs, Online

OREGON BRINEWORKS Hood River, OROregonbrineworks.combrian@oregonbrineworks.com541-354-1357Fermented Foods, Pickles, Sauerkraut, Hot Sauce, Beet Kvass, Ginger Roots. We have a small farm; we grow many vegetables to ferment. We work with 3 other local farm-ers. Certified organic, all of our products are raw and probiotic. Commercial, Insti-tutional, Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands, CSAs, Online

OUTBACK FARMSParkdale, [email protected]@hotmail.com541-352-7798 farm 503-956-1592 AntonioVegetables, Berries,Fruit, Flowers. We are a small family owned sustainably managed farm producing principally asparagus, tree fruits and berries in the fertile soil at the base of Mt. Hood. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands

RACK & CLOTH Mosier, ORwww.rackandcloth.comsilas@rackandcloth.com541-965-1457Vegetables, Fruit, Eggs, Flowers, Bev-erages, Prepared farm-to-table food. A small but diverse farming operation. Our organically-grown products are available at our farmstand and cidery tasting room. Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands, CSAs

ROOT ORCHARDSMosier, [email protected] Cherries. A 4th and 5th gener-ation family farm established in 1878, Root Orchards raises over 13 varieties of premium sweet cherries. U-pick, We-pick. Pedestrian orchard provides easy picking and beautiful vistas with easy access to our trees. Enjoy a family excursion and enjoy our luscious cherries too!

ROUGH SWAN RANCHWhite Salmon, WAwww.roughswanranch.comroughswanranch@hughes.net509-493-3348Pork, Poultry, Eggs. We raise pork and poultry on our 21 acre farm in White Salmon, WA. Our animals are pasture raised and are fed organic feed containing no corn, soy or GMO. You can’t beat the taste of our pork, meat chickens or eggs. Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, CSAs, Online

SCRATCH�A�LOT FARMCook, WAwww.facebook.com/[email protected], Berries, Poultry, Eggs. Our Poultry is produced with all non-gmo organic feed and fresh grass daily, and butchered in our on-site certified facility. Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands, CSAs

SIMPLY SIERRASWhite Salmon, [email protected], Fruit. Owned by the new generation, growing and making foods for the next. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumers, Farmstands, CSAs.

SOLLE FARMS/BIG BARN ORGANICSHood River, [email protected], Beverages. We grow 8 varieties of cherries, 8 varieties of organic pears and organic wine grapes. Direct sales to the public. 

SPRINGHOUSE CELLARhood river, ORspringhousecellar.comtrina@springhousecellar.com541-308-0700Producing ten handcrafted, vineyard-des-ignate, Northwest wines. Take home the Springhouse Cellar 1-liter wine growler. Commercial, Restaurants, Consumer.

SUNNYBROOK FARMTrout Lake, WAwww.grownatsunnybrook.comgrownatsunnybrook@gmail.com509-637-0690Beef, Pork, Poultry, Eggs, Potatoes and Winter Squash. Certified Organic, beyond organic, earth-friendly farming. We prac-tice innovative farming (permaculture) and love our community. Come see us! Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands, CSAs

TALKING TREE FARMParkdale, [email protected], Honey, Eggs, Flowers, Plants (starts, seeds, native plants, etc.) Wild Harvest Mushrooms. Family owned 1 acre permaculture Market Garden. Integrated organic growing techniques. By building the health of our soil, chickens, ducks, and bees we produce chemical-free, non-GMO vegetables and other food products. Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, Farmstands

VIENTOHood River, OR www.vientowines.com 541-386-3026 Wine. Viento wines are created by Rich Cushman, winemaker for over 30 years and native of Hood River, Oregon. Locally grown, single-site wines. Beautiful tasting room, friendly service. Tasting Room, Restaurants, On-line and Commercial

WILDWOOD FARMHood River, ORwww.wildwoodharvest.comfarm@wildwoodharvest.com541-436-4181Vegetables, Berries, Flowers, Herbs. Wild-wood Farm is a small, family farm growing an array of vegetables, herbs, and flowers for our local community. All-Natural grow-ing practices. Restaurants, Consumers, Farmers’ Markets, CSAs

WILINDA BLUEBERRY PATCHHood River, ORWilinda on Facebook. [email protected]. We are a U-Pick Blueberry patch. We DO NOT spray the berries. 9-6 daily starting July 1st. Contact for availability. Consumers, U-Pick - occasionally for individual orders, i.e. friends, weddings, parties

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 33

Always the RED CARPET Treatment at DIRECTORS MORTGAGE!

Call us today!541.436.2662

directorsmortgage.net This is not a commitment to lend. Consumer Loan License

NMLS-3240, CL-3240.

102 3rd StreetHood River, OR 97031

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541.386.571016 Oak St, Downtown Hood River, OROPEN DAILY: 1130 - 3pm, 5pm - closevisit our website: celilorestaurant.com

Innovative Pacific Northwest cuisine withan emphasis on locally grown ingredients. Featuring fine regional wines and full bar.

2015 Oregon Wine A-List Awardee.Consider our catering services for weddings & special events.

Did you know?A healthy diet

keeps your eyeshealthy too.

541-386-2402Hood River

541-296-1101The Dalles

To learn more aboutdiet & eyesight,

visit www.cascadeeye.com

A local resource guide for the discerning foodie. Reviews, recipes & more:

gorgeinthegorge.com

34 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

Donna Cody and her daughter, Lisa Perry, operate Cody

Orchards Fruit Stand in Odell, which first opened in 2006.

The Codys have 180 acres of fruit trees in the Hood River

Valley, and Lisa is the fourth generation to be working on

the family farm.

Donna, the orchard and the fruit stand are a perfect match. What made you decide to start the fruit stand? A: I love interacting with people. This was the perfect way to share the fruits of labor with community members, and now with visitors from all over. It’s great to see people’s reactions when they taste a ripe piece of fruit. That reaction helps make all the work worth it. Lisa, did you always know you wanted to be involved in the family business? What led you to it? A: I have demonstrated an interest in agriculture ever since choosing to do a school report on NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement) in 2000. That was odd for a 12-year-old. My interest and passion only grew from there. Lisa & Donna, what is your go-to meal after a long day on the orchard? Donna: Fresh salsa and grilled vegetables, maybe sliced bread or crackers to soak up the juices. Leftovers. I cook large meals twice a week and have wonderful leftovers during the busy season when we work seven days a week. Donna, I understand you are a master food preserver. What are your favorite items to preserve? A: I took the Master Food Preserver course in 2013 and grew up canning. After the MFP course, my favorite preservation method is fermenting. I love to ferment anything: kim-chi, kombucha, pickles, etc. I love making fruit but-ters because they require less sugar. Pear Butter is my favorite! Lisa & Donna, you encourage eating locally, but are there certain foods you can’t get locally that you enjoy? Donna: I love citrus, but I have found that I can substitute pears for any recipe that calls for citrus. Lisa: Avocados Lisa & Donna, what summer produce do you think is under-appreciated and why?

Donna: Peaches. People are used to flavorless produce from chain stores. Lisa: I think people love summer produce. But I feel the purchases are more for one tomato for one sandwich. One peach for a snack. I think creating whole meals from what’s seasonal is not appreciated. When you buy one zucchini, buy a bushel of tomatoes, a handful of herbs and simmer sauce for a memorable meal. The whole summer’s bounty should be enjoyed in harmony. Taking the time to freeze or preserve summer’s flavor can lead to appreciating summer produce during the winter! Also, I don’t think too many people appreciate the work that’s involved in producing all the great summer produce. Many people are disconnected with how much labor is needed to produce all of this food that we enjoy. Lisa & Donna,what might people be surprised to find in your kitchen? Donna: Spam. That’s for my husband, Glen. Lisa: I repurpose everything. Guests are surprised by all the ways I can find a new life for disposable items. Lisa & Donna, what are some of your must-have meals when you two get together with family? Donna: Dancing Chicken, a pear salad, and a seasonal pie for dessert. Lisa: I love to highlight what’s in season. For example: Eggplant lasagna in the summer, or winter squash soup in the winter.

Is there an easy family recipe you’d like to share with readers?

Q&ACODY ORCHARDS

PEAR SALADYour choice of mixed greens, chopped pear, a red pear for color1/2 cup Gorgonzola, or your choice of cheese. Your choice candied nuts (see recipe)Mix the ingredients. Drizzle the balsamic dressing (see recipe) before serving

Candied Nuts 1/4 cup butter, melted2 cups hazelnuts or nut of choice 1 tbsp Tabasco sauce 1 tsp salt 1/4 cup sugarCombine butter and hazelnuts in pan and cook about 5 minutes. Add Tabasco, salt and sugar. Turn heat to low and cook an additional 8 minutes. Remove from heat. Cover a cookie sheet with foil. Put cooked nuts on a rack on top of a cookie sheet so coating drips onto foil. Chop nuts after dry

Balsamic Vinaigrette1/2 cup olive oil 1/4 cup vinegar 1 clove minced garlic1 tsp sugar1 tsp salt Whisk all ingredients until blended

FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE 35

Natural gas is energy-e�cient, reliable, and so easy to use. It makes a home warm and cozy, and a kitchen the most popular room in the house.

Visit nwnatural.com to learn more about the bene�ts of natural gas homes and appliances. Or contact your local NW Natural representative to see howmuch you can save by switching your home to natural gas.

Tonya [email protected](800) 422-4012 ext. 8610

PEOPLE REALLY HAVE AN APPETITEFOR NATURAL GAS HOMES.A�ordable. Comfortable & Convenient. E�cient.

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Join OSU Extension Master Food Preservers, Master Gardeners, and 4-HYouthDevelopment for a variety of food preservation classes, plant clinics, and after-schoolprograms. Master Gardeners start their courses in January. Master Food Preserversstart their courses in April. Contact your local Extension Office for more information.

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36 FALL 2015 • SAVOR THE GORGE

Fall brings a garden of eatin’ to the Gorge. With a bounty of choices for fresh produce in stores and farmers markets, fall is a great time to fill up on the fruits and vegetables that everybody needs for good health.

And to make it even easier to add fruits and veggies to your diet, Providence Hood River Memorial Hospital has some delicious new recipes for you to try. They’re tasty ways to get the nutrients you need to help prevent health problems such as heart disease, stroke, diabetes and cancer.

Eat well and stay healthy, with Providence. Call us at 541-387-6342 to get a free Providence Heart-Healthy Living Guide fi lled with family-friendly recipes and helpful tips. You are what you eat, so savor the fl avor of healthful food and enjoy a healthy body, for life.

Good food: a prescription for good health

www.providence.org/hoodriver