Cambridge News | cambridge-news.co.uk | September 5, 2015 | 17

ALREADY big fans of the South West, my husband and I know many parts of Cornwall, Devon, Dorset and Somerset from

childhood family holidays and more recent music festival jaunts. Until now, though, the Cornish town of St Ives had rather passed us by.

And from the moment we arrived, albeit after a slightly fraught last stage of the journey (those steep Cornish roads are pretty much anathema for the Cambridge driver!), we began to understand the full gravity of our error. Because, it’s fair to say, that even two such confirmed Cornwall-philes as us were utterly bowled over.

The hotel that we were based in for the first half of our six-day stay, the Pedn Olva, had car-parking facilities for guests set aside in the railway station’s car park. Unfurling our legs after the six-hour drive we were, right away, smacked in the face by the beauty of the outlook – the sea that particular shade of pale, almost-fluorescent blue that you only seem to get in Cornwall, and beaches stretching almost as far as the eye could scan. Wow: sold!

The visual treats continued once we checked into our room. The hotel is basically perched right above one of St Ives’ (count ’em) FOUR beaches, Porthminster, with its almost half a mile of sand, and our bedroom window had a view to die for. After a quick dip in the small-but-perfectly-formed outdoor pool (again with a fabulous beach view) we dined at the hotel’s restaurant, in what was to prove to be just the first of a series of impressively high class meals we were to experience during our stay.

Up early for a pre-breakfast swim, our first morning was spent ambling around town, getting to know its nooks, crannies, proliferation of tea shops and small art galleries, including a pleasant hour browsing a local craft market.

In the afternoon we headed for the famous Minack outdoor theatre, a 40-minute drive away in Porthcurno, for a matinee performance of She Stoops To Conquer. With seats carved into the cliff, and the sea as a backdrop, this makes for a stunning theatrical experience.

Seasoned Minack-goers bring their own cushions and picnics, and after a couple of hours sitting on a stone seat, we understood why: essential (ouch!)

St Ives is blessed with not only a multiplicity of beaches, but is also an utter dream for gourmets, with fabulous dining options pretty much everywhere you look. And with everything so easy to reach (you can probably walk from one end of the town to the other in about half an hour), you are at liberty to really explore its highlights.

We ate brilliant meals each night, from the way-better-than-expected Italian from Caffe Pasta on the harbour front to the quirky, beautifully plated vegetarian delights of Spinacio’s.

Best of all though was the new Porthminster Kitchen. This was serious cuisine, imaginative, inventive and an absolute thrill to eat, in stylish but unpretentious surroundings looking out once again (yep, there’s a theme here) over the sea. My Vegetarian Umami starter, with shitake set into a cream, black garlic and crisp bread, was one of the most original plates of food I’ve ever eaten, and the oriental-inflected Roasted Eggplant main lived up to the high expectations it had set. A must-visit for adventurous foodies.

For the second half of our visit we were

staying at Harbour Watch – a small fisherman’s cottage converted into a cosy self-catering holiday home. Charming, beautifully appointed and really cleverly laid out to make the optimum use of the inside space, we really loved our little bolthole which, as the name suggested, had yet ANOTHER wonderful view, from our nest-like platform bed, over the harbour.

Greeted on arrival with treats including toiletries, tea and coffee, a rustic loaf, Cornish butter and cheese, milk, prosecco and two ales, we took advantage of the vouchers also left for us to have a great lunch at The Tearoom – homity pie, crab sandwiches, coffee and walnut cake – bliss!

Perhaps the most magical aspect of this truly magical place rests in the art that runs through the veins of St Ives. A visit to Tate St Ives is near-obligatory (we particularly adored the vivid Bridget

Rileys, Dan Flavin’s light structures and Rivane Neuenschwander’s room of small multi-coloured ribbons, each with a ‘wish’ contributed by St Ives residents printed along its length), and even better is the Barbara Hepworth museum and garden.

The sculptor’s pieces, huge and imposing or smaller-scale, are given an eye-opening new dimension when displayed, as the artist intended, in her carefully cultivated gardens. This was quite possibly the most impressive, beautiful and soul-enriching art exhibition we had ever spent time in, with each sculpture providing endless fascination, seeming to morph in appearance as the sun came out or hid behind the clouds again.

On an English holiday you take your chances, weather-wise, don’t you? We were on the whole really lucky during our Cornish soujourn, allowing us to visit each of the beaches and appreciate the very different style of each.

Surfers should head for Porthmeor, opposite The Tate, while if you like beach huts and an endless stretch of sand then Porthminster is your recommended destination.

Our favourite, though, was the small-but-beautifully-formed Porthgwidden. Ideal for sunbathing, great for kids, the only downside was the aggressive seagulls, who – working in pairs – mugged me, grabbing the egg baguette from my hands after just one mouthful!

But that was a small price to pay for such an idyllic break. In a county that is blessed with more charm than most places in the UK, St Ives has got a very real claim to being Cornwall’s most wonderful destination. Seagulls do your worst: we’ll almost certainly be back.

Pedn Olva, West Porthminster Beach, St Ives TR26 2EA. pednolva.co.ukHarbour Watch Cottage, Aspects Holidays, (01736) 754242. aspects-holidays.co.ukMinack Theatre, Porthcurno, Penzance TR19 6JU. minack.comTate St Ives, Porthmeor Beach, St Ives TR26 1TG. tate.org.uk/stivesPorthminster Kitchen, The Wharf, St Ives TR26 1LG. porthminster.kitchen

Travel facts

Apart from one thieving seagull, Jude Clarke discovers she loves St Ives.

TravelMore on travel at cambridge-news.co.uk/lifestyle

Short is sweet for autumn getaways

WHERE are the most popular destinations for mini-breaks? Paris, Venice, Amsterdam, Rome, Barcelona, Bruges, Berlin and Nice are all in demand. Reykjavik is also on the rise and Dubrovnik is growing in popularity, as are the Channel Islands of Jersey and Guernsey.I’m on a budget – where do you suggest? Berlin offers great value with the strong euro exchange rate – accommodation prices are lower than in Paris or Venice but the experience is just as good with a huge amount of history and culture, and it’s under two hours from Stansted Airport. Look out for ‘free night’ offers on accommodation; destinations like the Channel Islands often have added-value deals such as free meals, free nights and free room upgrades. Avoid popular events which create higher hotel prices and book early to get the biggest saving. Mid-week flights and accommodation are often cheaper than at weekends.How can I get the most value out of a short break? Look for destinations with short flights from your local airport and be as flexible as possible – an early flight out and late flight back will give you maximum time. Research the location: work out what you want to see and where to base yourself. Collect your currency before you travel and pre-book your airport transfers, excursions and tours to save time on arrival. When is the best time to take advantage of offers and deals? The summer months tend to be cheaper for Mediterranean cities such as Rome, Barcelona or Athens – although the soaring temperatures can be a challenge. Spring

and autumn tend to be busier for New York, Dubai and Paris, while the winter months are popular for European Christmas Markets. Keep an eye out for seasonal offers and ask us for advice, as we often have exclusive deals in store.What are the main things to consider? Booking as early as possible is the best way to secure a bargain, as it’s unlikely that you’ll find a last-minute deal which offers better value. Be flexible – even if you can’t stretch the budget, we’ll find you an alternative at a price to suit. And don’t forget to leave time to get a real feel for the city – some of the best experiences aren’t always the historical attractions but eating where the locals do, or people-watching from pavement cafes.n For more information, contact one of Premier Travel’s Sidney Street specialists on (01223) 500007 or visit premier-travel.co.uk.

With autumn approaching, a short break can help to avoid the ‘winter blues’.

Premier Travel’s Steve Cox offers his top tips.

Rooms with a view

SEASCAPES: The Pedn Olva hotel in St Ives; top, the view from Jude’s converted fisherman’s cottage

WORKS OF ART: By Barbara Hepworth and Portminster Kitchen

POPULAR: Venice, right, and Jersey