wflat every women ougt now pooh mhking good...

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WflAT EVERY WomEN OUGt To NOW U Anybody can make POOH say I fancy I hear one of may be true but what kind of bread good bad or indifferent That makes all the difference in the world The truth is there is nothing- in the whole range of cooking that is so uneven in its results as bread That is e the experience of the majority of cooks amateur and professional I was talk ¬ ing on this subject once with the very capable woman who was at that time administering kitchen affairs for me and who always had the most delicious and toothsome bread You never seem to make a mistake Mary or to have bad luck with your baking I said Theres no need of either madam- was Marys reply It is just lack of care When I make bread I put my mind to it and see to it that it is right And then Mary made a statement that quite contradicts the one made by the girl who received the proposition for this lesson so cavalierly- And not everybody can make good bread no matter how hard they try Theres Nellie nowNellie was her assistant whom she was teaching to- cookits no use to try to teach her she never can do it shes too heavy handed shell never make a cook I was telling her that this morning Alertness Necessary in Cookin- gAt first I didnt quite see what Mary meant but I found out by watching The girl moved clumsily she touched things as though her hand was of iron she clutched rather than held whatever was in her grasp there was no light ¬ ness no alertness to any of the motions She was just heavy that described- her better than any other word would have done I have seen a few people like her since and I have found out in I every case that they were not good i BREAD BEFORE AND AFTER RISING I cooks no matter how conscientiously- they tried they could not succeed It was the hopeless heaviness of their movements- I give you this piece of information- for two reasons To show you that the girl who jumped at her conclusions jumped in the direction and to give you some information that may stand you in stead in time to come when- it shall fall to you to look for the new maid Before we begin mixing the bread I have a wordoto say to you about the yeast for making the dough rise Teast In these days the yeast most gener L A of Detail Y HHE boning of a waist lining is jfi an important operation upon which depends much of the success of the finished gar ¬ ment There are several methods by which this may be done the one es ¬ sential point in all being that the lining shall be stretched at the waista dis ¬ tance about one inch above and one inch below this lineand eased the remainder- of the bones length- It was not so long ago that whale ¬ bone was considered the only material possible for use in a good gown there were substitutes of horn and steel but all were open to one objection or an- other ¬ the principal being that they bent out of shape or wore through the gar ¬ ment The invention and perfection of featherbone has proven a boon to dress ¬ makers generally Whalebone is now both scarce and expensive and a de- pendable ¬ substitute is welcomed Featherbone The usual method of applying feather bone to the seams of a by means of an attachment fitting any machine that the manufacturers supply for the asking together with instruction for its use The seams should be finished either by binding overcasting or notching and pressed epen before the feathcrbone applied The height to which the bones shall extend depends upon the size of the figure stouter figures higher boning than those that are slender The general rule for 36 bust measure is to extend the bones about five inches above the waistline while for an un ¬ usually stout figure they sometimes reach- to the armhole on the back seam of the underarm piece and extend propor ¬ tionately on the other seams Make a mark for height of bone on each seam a pin will answer but it is a good rule in dressmaking to make all important markings with a thread The attachment is placed in position on the the featherbone slipped wrongside up through the channel provided for it and in such way that the needle will pass through the exact center in sewing and the at ¬ tachment is screwed down tight so it will not slip Uslng the Machine Have the bone extend one inch be- yond ¬ the machine needle and onc half beyond the mark on the seam for height ol bone Lay the pressed 01w + MHKING GOOD BReAD + + ally used is the convenient compressed- yeast but when my pupil had her les ¬ sons in breadmaking she had first of all to learn to make yeast as housekeepers- then depended almost wholly upon home ¬ made yeast And even now if one lives at quite a distance from town and the grocer doesnt come regularly for orders it is most convenient to have ones yeast jug to go to when there is bread to be made- I know housekeepers who never let themselves get out of this necessary article generally using the last cupful with which to start a new supply It is no difficult matter this of yeast making as you will soon discover The dread of undertaking it is far more than the real task of doing it as is true in so need the follow ¬ many things You will ing ingredients in the given proportions Simple Ingredients- One large potato one of hops loose one pint of boiling water one heaping tabjespoonful of flour one heaping teaspoonful of sugar one heap ¬ ing teaspoonful of salt onequarter of a teaspoonful of ginger a yeast cake dissolved in half a cupful of luke ¬ warm water or half a cupful of yeast Wash the potato well pare it and put it at once into cold water If you neglect- to do this the potato will discolor and spoil the appearance of the yeast Steep the hops in the boiling water Mix the flour sugar ginger and salt in a large bowl then grate the potato into this flour mixture let the hop water boil for one mute then strain it over the potato and four and mix ir as quickly as possible It should thikcn like starch with no cooking but if it fails THE wrong j to do this put it over the fire for a few minutes Allow for Fermentation If it is too thick add a little more boil ¬ ing water until it is the consistency of cream set it aside to cool and when it is lukewarm add the yeast Put it in a warm place to rise until it is frothy and light beating it down every half hour When it is risen sufficiently put it in a jar or a glass bottle cork it and keep it Dont fill the receptacle youll be likely to have an explosion if you do and find your yeast anywhere but where you put it Remember the jar not over twothirds full to allow for fermen ¬ tation BONING WAIST I Uptodate Method Dressmaking Accomplishing this Necessary require sewingmachine tablespoonful onehalf open seam over it the stitching of the seam at the center = and the pressure foot over the lefthand turnedback edge of seam Take the first stitch onehalf inch below the mark on the seam measure and cut the required length of bone Stitch close to the stitching of the sean but not in it Push the material toward the needle in order to ease the seam to the bone One inch above the waistline begin to stretch the seam and one inch below the waistline begin again- to push the seam toward the needle in sewing On the underarm seam the stretch- ing may continue to the boitom of the waist this stretching corresponds to the springing of whalebones inserted in casings attached to the scams the amount of spring being varied on the different scams according to the figure rlfll5hlflg the Top To finish the bone at the top rip the covering down onehalf inch cut off onehalf inch of bone and under cover- ing ¬ turn the end of the outside cover- ing ¬ over the end of the bone and tack it at each side leaving onehalf inch of the bone unattached to the seam A bone must be placed at each front edge before the hooks and eves are sewed on for this purpose there is a special kind of uncovered featherbone called hookand eye bone r It is advisable to have a seam allow- ance ¬ of threeeighths inch on all seam edges this means that the edge of each represents the cuttingline and a parallel line threeeighths of an inch inside this edge will be the sewingline Unless one is certain of being abk to gauge the threeeighths of an inch accuratelyby the eye it will prove a wise plan to mike a pencilmark at this distance from the seam edge and run the tracing wheel along the penciled line This precaution is especially advis ¬ able at the underarm and the shoulder seams where alterations may be neces- sary ¬ as it will permit wide seam allow- ance ¬ to be made in cutting without en- dangering ¬ the accuracy of the sewing line uking Material The tracingwheel will do the work- on linings or other materials on which- it will leave a mark on woolens the sewingline must be marked in a dif- ferent ¬ manner When cutting woolen goods traie alon the ede of these outlet settms with tailors chalk In I TABLIB SUGGESTIONS When you have to take some yeast out I do not take the jar into a warm place but pour it out where it is kept and be sure that the cork is replaced at once You will notice that the potato is not cooked but is grated raw Now many of the rules that are in use call for boiled potatoes I do not suppose that the yeast itself is any better made with the uncooked potatoes but it keeps better- It is more likely to turn sour soon when the cooked potato is used just as any cooked vegetables spoil more quickly than uncooked ones It is cer ¬ tainly more trying both to fingers and patience to grate the raw potato than- to mash the cooked one but the result will be better and isnt that worth taking- a little trouble for Beginning Breadtlabinp And now for the bread itself The first step is to examine your hands to see that they are quite clean rings removed and nails in order and you arc ready to begin The rule I am going to give youfor- we dont want to undertake too much at the beginning will make a single loaf- or a pan of biscuits You can increase the proportions as you desire a larger quantity but I would make my experi- ment ¬ with the single loaf Use one cupful of milk or water luke- warm ¬ onehalf a teaspoonful of salt onehalf teaspoonful of sugar one quarter of a cupful of yeast or one quarter a yeast cake dissolved in one quarter of a cupful of lukewarm water i and from three to three and a half cup fuls of flour Milk Bread Milk bread I think is finergrained- and smoother than bread that is mixed with water and I have an idea that it is more delicate and at the same time more nourishing Still water bread is good and where milk is not easily obtained- or is too expensive to use for mixing you will I am sure find no fault with substitute- If you use milk you must heat it to boiling in the double boiler mere scald ¬ ing will not do it must be boiled This- is to prevent the dough from turning- sour while rising as it often will do in warm weather unless this precaution is taken After the milk has been boiled turn it into the mixing bowl and set it aside- to cool When just lukewarm add the salt sugar and yeast then the flour measured after sifting Mix it thor ¬ oughly with a knife or spoon and then when it is well mixed and is stiff enough- to knead turn it out onto a wellfloured board and knead it until it is soft and elastic and can be worked without any 11 our- Kneading You need not make hard work of the kneading it is a matter of dexterity rather than of strength lightness and quickness of touch rather than heavy bearing down upon the mass What you want to do is to get it well mixed so that every particle shall be permeated with the yeast and it shall be perfectly smooth and free from lumps Use only the tips of the fingers and the ball of the hand press lightly and do not break the smooth crust that will form under proper kneading You may have a little cutting allow onehalf inch or more be ¬ yond then make a second chalkline threeeighths of an inch inside the first and mark along this line with tailors tacks which as the cloth was doubled before cutting will mark both sides alike Tailors Tacks Tailors tacks are made by taking al- ternately ¬ one long stitch an inch or more on the upper side and two short I stitches through the two layers of cloth to the underside Use basting thread doubled and do not make a knot in the endMake these stitches along the chalked- line then cut every long end of thread separate the two edges of the cloth slightly and cut the threads that are between The short ends will remain- in the cloth and mark the seamline Inserting the HockandEye Bone The hookandeye bone is stitched in the front without the boning attach ¬ ment Baste to the inside of each front edge an inchwide strip of bias crino- line ¬ making the basting threads in the line of the tracing Lay the waist on the machine the in ¬ side uppermost place the bone just out- side ¬ the traced line and with the curved side down and the top of the bone not quite so high as the boning of the dart stitch through the center of the bone Turn the front of the waist under I from top to bottom at the traced line and make a row of stitching oneeighth- of an inch inside of the fold edge An inch and onequarter is about the correct spacing of the hooks and eyes sewed on alternately the hooks so their ends will come oneeighth inch inside the edge and extending the eyes the same distance bevond the edee Hem- a facing of the lining or a length of bonecasing to the inside of the waist covering sewing of the hooks and CTS- Usimg I Wha1ekJle- I When whalebone is employed single bonecasing must first be sewed to the I seams One inch of the bonecasing I USIXESS life calls for a large I quantity of what is called gump- tion ¬ it also imparts this rare I grace to teachable women so it is always surprising that more workers- do 1 not fit themselves to absorb it You may have all the learning the colleges L trouble the i r tirrc and pnssiblv the elastic ball put it back into the mixing second hut 11 hi a il rnst things bowl to rise over right Cover it wth practice Jh p > fd s lnt gt a lean breadcloth v nh a pan or some discouragci Llt h p n tr > mg until yta c dt tat 1c cl wh to krrp out succeed tilr air so that no hard crust vH form I = = 0 SEE THAT IT IS BROWNED PROPERLY AND H SOUND WHLX YOU RAP IT And lot me tell von as a secret that I there is no hetUr xrci for the chest and arms than this and if you have a flat client flabby muscles and drooping shoulders just take up breadmaking Youll be surprised what it will do in the way of development Letting Bread Rise So sion as the dough i a smooth I KNEADING IS TNT rSIS OF GOO IRFUi- s turned over at the top forming a little pocket which is to be left free from the seam for onehalf inch as was the featherbone The casing is then rui slightly fulled to each edge of the seam the center of the casing over the stitch- ing ¬ of the seam In order to spring the bones it is necessary to sew through them and in order to make this possible they should- be soaked for about an hour in warm water Cut the end of the whalebone round and scrape < r shave about one half inch with a knife or scissors blade- to make it as thin as possible Push the bone in the casing and up into the little pocket Secure it here by taking two or three stitches with twist through the center of the bone and to each side f the casin An inch and onehalf GT1on the waistline sew through bone and casing again SprlagiBg tkc Bone It is to be sprung across the waist ¬ line by pushing the bone into the casing- as tight as possible so that it bends out slightly rounded and holding it so by sewing through hone and casing one inch below the vaistline There is a third method of boning that is less work than either of the two described though it is not considered- so desirable for a costume waist Onequarter inch additional seama Idwance must he made at every seam edge The seams are not pressed open but are stitched togetirer threeeighth of an inch from ie nrst rov making- a casing for the bone which is slipped in and tacked as previously described Trtigth the Bone All the bone ould be cut off one half inch above the lower dge oi the waist a bias trip of crinoline is then basted around the bottom stretching- the outer edge of the bias where neces- sary ¬ to make it Jit smoothly both crino ¬ line and waist are then turned over threeeighths of an inch and basted after which the tarnedup edge is catch stitched to the crinoline that extends above it THE WOMAN IN BUSINESS Appearance Earnestness and Diligence i Necessary Business Assets Ii can impart but if you havent gump- tion ¬ which is only another word for commonsense with it the knowledge- is almost useless And commonsense aever comes to the woman who does not want to receive it Remember that you business women a Oil the outride but the whole mass may- be kept soft Be sure you put it where it will not be in a draught or will be sub- ject ¬ to no marked change in temperature Then you may go away and leave it for the busy yeast i doing its work and get ¬ ting it ready for your hands in the morning And there you find it beautifully risen ready to make into the loaf or the bis- cuit ¬ Vhen well risen it should be double its original bulk work it over in the bowl doubling in from the edges toward the center until it is smooth let it rise again which it will do quickly until it is double its bulk then shape it into a inaf and set it to rise in the pan in which it is to be baked Bakiny Let it rie until it is light then bake in an oven in which you can hold the hand twelve seconds without getting too hot- t first you will have to ask advice and take counsel with someone to whom breadmaking is not a novelty until you have come to know by yourself when the oven the bread or the rolls are just right Bake your bread from threequarters of an hour to an hourwatching it care ¬ fully all the time but more carefully at who have failed to get on in the busy world If you have failed look within for the cause rather than to any out ¬ ward condition or circumstance There arc cases where workers are not appre- ciated ¬ and are underpaid but a good worker can always leave the uncongenial place for a better one 3fatMM s Steppingstone TIme untid woman can never succeed- in business life simply because no man can like an untidy woman He may have- to keep her in his office for some reason other than that she does her work well but he endures her rather than takes any satisfaction out of her work And the untidy woman about her personal ap ¬ pearance is nearly always untidy about her work It takes the severely plain woman with the neat business suit the absence of trimmings the plain hair dressing and the perfect cleanliness of body to turn out good work One business man confessed to his wife that he had to move his desk be ¬ cause every time he lifted his eyes from his work they rested on the frowsy head and soiled collar of his stenographer- She would have been greatly surprised- to know what he thought of her as she appeared in her wornout party finery with her hair done in the latest and most exaggerated style day after day but she was not concerned enough about the welfare of the office to notice little things Some women wear out their soiled frayed best clothes in their kitchens and think themselves very economical while others who have no kitchens regard an- i office or store as the proper place to get the last bit of usefulness out of their I garments If you can only have one dress let it be a neat serviceable plain I clean oftice dress by all means t- I A PI Mfoe Apara8 aa Aeeet And for your own sake and the sake of the people who must work with you I learn to do your hair without puffs and rats and somebody elses hair A simple j natural arrangement that leaves time for cleanliness is a thousand times better than the elaborate structures some women build up on their heads There is trouble ahead for the man who must take ino his office the woman wfIo has been spoiled at home Very frequently it happens that a man who has allowed his wife to rule the home and who has never denied her anything he could possibly afford dies leaving hi family perfectly destitute- Not having character enough to man- a his finances in order to lay for the rainy day and lacking the patience I arid firmness necessary to educate his wile along this line the man drops out I of Ins place leaving a spoiled almost helpless widow to do what she can 19 j I- a as the last See that it browns properly a lovely soft golden brown with not a hint of a scorchand that it has a hollow sound when you rap it with yourj knuckle Having mastered breadmaking you may call yourself a cook It seems a dry and uninteresting branch of proKienov n that line 1 admit hut if Wtt consider b A nrtessarv in rulc brci1 is how > eparable fnm ci r cer > mal you AS A HOLLOW will realize the importance of knowing thoroughly how to prepare this funda ¬ mental food To sweeten the weeks lesson how ¬ ever I am giving you some additional household suggestions C nferve and Marmalades Conserves are superlative preserves There is no difference between the two in proportions of fruit and sugar the oldfashioned rule of pound for pound being followed in the majority of recipes- for conserves but the method of cook ¬ ing the fruit after the sugar is added makes the difference a flavorful one between conserves and preserves When making preserves the fruit is cooked in the syrup to the done degree only a careful housewife taking great care her peaches plums pears or what not do not lose their fair proportions through overcooking but in making conserves of which there are two kinds the soft and the dry long cooking is the rule- Conserves Soft conserves demand a slow fire and- a long time over it in order to reach the necessary condition of smooth firmness ward supporting the children and her- self ¬ That woman will wear the patience entirely out of her employer unless she has sense enough to know circumstances- alter cases There arevmany women of that class who have never learned that important lesson in business all over the land to- day ¬ as weary employers can testify Their way is always right and every- body ¬ else is in error If anyone ven- tures ¬ to disagree with them tears are called into requisition and the average business man hates tears worse than he does poison < Business as BnalceK Perhaps the greatest nuisance of all in business life is the woman who is only working until she gets married Now all women have in their hearts the feel ¬ ing that when the right man comes along the position will be cheerfully given up but the successful workers are not out hunting up the right man They are quietly and carefully attending to their duties knowing that ideally happy mar ¬ riages are not made by the woman in the case doing the courting- The entrance of a manany man into some places of business is the sig ¬ nal for the women workers to sit up NEW IDEAS COOKING Appetizing Inexpensive Novelties I Hutspot is a Dutch dish with a his ¬ tory and is eaten with especial relish on the anniversary of the raising of the siege of Leyden during which time of hardship it had ks origin Beef pork carrots onions and potatoes are the in- gredients ¬ Proportions do not matter I though there should be about twice as much beef <as there is of pork Cook the meat and carrots cut in small pieces until the latter are nearly done then add the otber vezetaWes cut small a generous piece of butter and simmer until cooked I 9 Staffed Oaicss I Stuffed onions cooked in papers to retain their homely savor are very toothsome the onions throw them into cold water and when cool remove the centers with an applecorer- Fill them with a piquantlyflavored sausage meat wrap them in buttered papers place them on the rack of a pan containing an inch of water and bake in- a quick oven for threequarters of an hour Remove from the papers for serving sprinkle them with pepper and salt and serve with melted butter J for when done the fruit mtst be cooked down to a rich velvety mass that can W molded and thinly sliced like cheese To prepare dry conserves the fruit- is cooked in a rich syrup until the latter has struck through The fruit is then drained from the syrup and the cooking process continued in a cool oven or bet ¬ ter under glass by the rays of the sun This kind of conserve is usually packed- in sugar for keeping and is eaten from the fingers like candy I The following recipe for what the French call Raisin will give a very choice conserve Skin four pounds of grapes and cook with one pint of water seeds are free from the pup rub through a tine colander add fout pounds of ripe pears peeled and cut into small pieces and cook over a slow fire until reduced to threequarters of th << amount then add sugar in the propor ¬ tion or threequarters of a pound f it every pound of fruit and one for every pint of water Cook until a drof of the conserve on a chilled plate will keep its hape Turn into small glasses or gallipot and place in a cool oven for nine or tea j hors When the cooking pYoces is finished the conserve should be stiff enough to slice smoothly For apple raiMie cut in small pieces two and one half pounds of highflavored cooking ap pies put them over a slow fire wih ore i pint of sweet cider and simmer until I soft then add an equal quantit P I chopped seeded raisins one cupfui oi t water or cider and four pounds of c > par cook very slowly until the ahov cfc mentioned test will apply successful rb through a fine colander and put in- sTall jars I Served with tiny balls of crnm chees T a fliff of whipped cream aiid accotn- Tmied by unsweetened wafers and chc- ioate rapine makes the finest kind 01 a nirheiweet- A conserve made from citron melon is ery good Make it in the proportion of- ten pounds of melon eight pounds of sugar four large lemons and onefourth pound of green ginger root Pare ana j cut the melon in small pieces then cover it with lime water made of 4lbv of lime and one gallon of water Let it stand for five or six hours then drain cover with cold water bring to the boiling point and drain again Put the melon the lemons sliced and half of the sugar- in the preserving kettle and set away for twentyfour hours then add the re ¬ mainder of the sugar and cook over a slow fire for five or six hours A dry conserve a Turkish conceit- is also made of citron and will prove- a practical novelty to many It is good for a luncheon sweet or to serve with icecream Pare and chop very fine a- fresh citron cover it with slightly salted water and boil until tender drain and cover with diluted white wine vinegar or lemon juice and let stand at least twenty four hours Drain again cover with a thick sugar syrup made as for canning fruit and slowly boil until a thick green paste results then add onehalf cupful of rosewater and continue cooking until a little dropped in icewater can be rolled- in a firm ball Pour to the depth of one half inch into oiled pans coyer with f glass and stand in the sunor a cool ovenfor twelve hours Cut in fancy shapes and pack in layers with granu ¬ lated sugar between in airtight boxes Tomato Marmalade We are so accustomed to look upon the humble little green tomato as fit only- to play the part of supe in the mixed picklepot that it is hard to associate it with a toothsome marmalade but this fruitfor the tomato is a berryreally shines as a marmalade ingredient Peel the tomatoes and cut iii halves or quar- ters ¬ Add the sugar allowing about thirteen ounces for every pound of fruit and stand away over nights In tho morning add one lemon and not only pay attention but demand I it They spend more time trying to at tract attention in doing their work i for they regard marriage as release from bondage and therefore everything else is secondary Workers net Martyrs When a young girl gets it into her head that she is a martyr because she must earn her own living the next thought that naturally follows is that some man ought to support her and she sets herself to work to capture a hus- band If half the time she spends in 4 thinking and dreaming and plannin about getting away from the drudger- of were spent in doing work well she would be a success in any walk in life i And when the worker is a widow bent- on matrimony the situation becomes in ¬ tense Pity the bachelor or widower who employs a designing female of this type If he doesnt for a lodge in- a wilderness very shortly he must be made of flint The ideal business life permits the em- ployer ¬ to choose his helpers but in real life they are often thrust upon him and he mu t bear the consequences with what grace Le can muster IN and for the Table Hutspet I Date Xrlngwe Parboil pound Wash drain and dry the dates stone and cut them in small piece Spread one cupful of these over a platter and sprinkle with lemonjuice Whip suf- ficient ¬ cream to make two large cup- fuls and sugar to sweeten fold in the stifflywhipped whites of two eggs and stir in lightly the pieces of date Ar ¬ range in a deep glass dish in alternate layers with macaroon or pongecak < crumbs which have been very moistened with a little fruitjuire or serve in glass dish by itself with a delicate nut cake J Date SwUwtefce Mix equal quantities of date pulp and finelychopped English walnut meats Moisten slightly a little soft but ¬ ter or sweet cream spresd the mix ¬ ture smoothly on thinlyrfced bread cover with another slice and press light- ly ¬ to make them hold together- Date EB4wfeb Xo 2 Mix equal amounts of date pulp and finelychopped preserved ginger moisten with a little of the ginger syrup and spread over lightIy ttere4 broad Cov- er ¬ with another slice and finish as for 1 other sandwiches

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Page 1: WflAT EVERY WomEN OUGt NOW POOH MHKING GOOD TABLIBufdcimages.uflib.ufl.edu/UF/00/07/59/11/00347/0345.pdf · WflAT EVERY WomEN OUGt To NOW U Anybody can make POOHsay I fancy I hear

WflAT EVERY WomEN OUGt To NOWU Anybody can make

POOHsayI fancy I hear one of

may be true but whatkind of bread good bad or indifferentThat makes all the difference in theworld The truth is there is nothing-in the whole range of cooking that is souneven in its results as bread That isethe experience of the majority of cooksamateur and professional I was talk ¬

ing on this subject once with the verycapable woman who was at that timeadministering kitchen affairs for me andwho always had the most delicious andtoothsome bread

You never seem to make a mistakeMary or to have bad luck with yourbaking I said

Theres no need of either madam-was Marys reply It is just lack ofcare When I make bread I put mymind to it and see to it that it is right

And then Mary made a statement thatquite contradicts the one made by thegirl who received the proposition forthis lesson so cavalierly-

And not everybody can make goodbread no matter how hard they tryTheres Nellie nowNellie was herassistant whom she was teaching to-

cookits no use to try to teach hershe never can do it shes too heavyhanded shell never make a cook Iwas telling her that this morning

Alertness Necessary in Cookin-gAt first I didnt quite see what Mary

meant but I found out by watchingThe girl moved clumsily she touchedthings as though her hand was of ironshe clutched rather than held whateverwas in her grasp there was no light ¬

ness no alertness to any of the motionsShe was just heavy that described-her better than any other word wouldhave done I have seen a few peoplelike her since and I have found out in I

every case that they were not good i

BREAD BEFORE AND AFTER RISING I

cooks no matter how conscientiously-they tried they could not succeed Itwas the hopeless heaviness of theirmovements-

I give you this piece of information-for two reasons To show you that thegirl who jumped at her conclusionsjumped in the direction and togive you some information that maystand you in stead in time to come when-it shall fall to you to look for the newmaid

Before we begin mixing the bread Ihave a wordoto say to you about theyeast for making the dough rise

TeastIn these days the yeast most gener

L

Aof

DetailY HHE boning of a waist lining is

jfi an important operation uponwhich depends much of thesuccess of the finished gar¬

ment There are several methods bywhich this may be done the one es ¬

sential point in all being that the liningshall be stretched at the waista dis¬

tance about one inch above and one inchbelow this lineand eased the remainder-of the bones length-

It was not so long ago that whale ¬

bone was considered the only materialpossible for use in a good gown therewere substitutes of horn and steel butall were open to one objection or an-other

¬

the principal being that they bentout of shape or wore through the gar¬

ment The invention and perfection offeatherbone has proven a boon to dress ¬

makers generally Whalebone is nowboth scarce and expensive and a de-pendable

¬

substitute is welcomed

FeatherboneThe usual method of applying feather

bone to the seams of a by meansof an attachment fitting any machinethat the manufacturers supply for theasking together with instruction for itsuse The seams should be finished eitherby binding overcasting or notching andpressed epen before the feathcrboneapplied

The height to which the bones shallextend depends upon the size of thefigure stouter figures higherboning than those that are slender Thegeneral rule for 36 bust measure isto extend the bones about five inchesabove the waistline while for an un ¬

usually stout figure they sometimes reach-to the armhole on the back seam of theunderarm piece and extend propor ¬

tionately on the other seamsMake a mark for height of bone on

each seam a pin will answer but it isa good rule in dressmaking to makeall important markings with a threadThe attachment is placed in position onthe the featherboneslipped wrongside up through thechannel provided for it and in such waythat the needle will pass through theexact center in sewing and the at¬

tachment is screwed down tight so itwill not slip

Uslng the MachineHave the bone extend one inch be-

yond¬

the machine needle and onc halfbeyond the mark on the seam

for height ol bone Lay the pressed

01w + MHKING GOOD BReAD + +

ally used is the convenient compressed-yeast but when my pupil had her les ¬

sons in breadmaking she had first of allto learn to make yeast as housekeepers-then depended almost wholly upon home ¬

made yeastAnd even now if one lives at quite a

distance from town and the grocerdoesnt come regularly for orders it ismost convenient to have ones yeast jugto go to when there is bread to be made-

I know housekeepers who never letthemselves get out of this necessaryarticle generally using the last cupfulwith which to start a new supply

It is no difficult matter this of yeastmaking as you will soon discover Thedread of undertaking it is far more thanthe real task of doing it as is true in so

need the follow¬many things You willing ingredients in the given proportions

Simple Ingredients-One large potato one of

hops loose one pint of boiling waterone heaping tabjespoonful of flour oneheaping teaspoonful of sugar one heap ¬

ing teaspoonful of salt onequarter of ateaspoonful of ginger a yeastcake dissolved in half a cupful of luke¬

warm water or half a cupful of yeastWash the potato well pare it and put itat once into cold water If you neglect-to do this the potato will discolor andspoil the appearance of the yeast

Steep the hops in the boiling waterMix the flour sugar ginger and salt

in a large bowl then grate the potatointo this flour mixture let the hop waterboil for one mute then strain it overthe potato and four and mix ir asquickly as possible It should thikcnlike starch with no cooking but if it fails

THE

wrong

j to do this put it over the fire for a fewminutes

Allow for FermentationIf it is too thick add a little more boil¬

ing water until it is the consistency ofcream set it aside to cool and when itis lukewarm add the yeast Put it in awarm place to rise until it is frothy andlight beating it down every half hourWhen it is risen sufficiently put it in ajar or a glass bottle cork it and keep it

Dont fill the receptacle youll belikely to have an explosion if you doand find your yeast anywhere but whereyou put it Remember the jar not overtwothirds full to allow for fermen ¬

tation

BONING WAISTI Uptodate MethodDressmaking

Accomplishing this Necessary

require

sewingmachine

tablespoonful

onehalf

open seam over it the stitching of theseam at the center =and the pressure footover the lefthand turnedback edge ofseam Take the first stitch onehalf inchbelow the mark on the seam measureand cut the required length of bone

Stitch close to the stitching of thesean but not in it Push the materialtoward the needle in order to ease theseam to the bone One inch above thewaistline begin to stretch the seam andone inch below the waistline begin again-to push the seam toward the needle insewing

On the underarm seam the stretch-ing may continue to the boitom of thewaist this stretching corresponds to thespringing of whalebones inserted in

casings attached to the scams theamount of spring being varied on thedifferent scams according to the figure

rlfll5hlflg the TopTo finish the bone at the top rip the

covering down onehalf inch cut offonehalf inch of bone and under cover-ing

¬

turn the end of the outside cover-ing

¬

over the end of the bone and tack itat each side leaving onehalf inch ofthe bone unattached to the seam A bonemust be placed at each front edge beforethe hooks and eves are sewed on forthis purpose there is a special kind ofuncovered featherbone called hookandeye bone r

It is advisable to have a seam allow-ance

¬

of threeeighths inch on all seamedges this means that the edge of eachrepresents the cuttingline and a parallelline threeeighths of an inch inside thisedge will be the sewingline Unlessone is certain of being abk to gaugethe threeeighths of an inch accuratelybythe eye it will prove a wise plan tomike a pencilmark at this distancefrom the seam edge and run the tracingwheel along the penciled line

This precaution is especially advis ¬

able at the underarm and the shoulderseams where alterations may be neces-sary

¬

as it will permit wide seam allow-ance

¬

to be made in cutting without en-dangering

¬

the accuracy of the sewingline

uking MaterialThe tracingwheel will do the work-

on linings or other materials on which-it will leave a mark on woolens thesewingline must be marked in a dif-ferent

¬

manner When cutting woolengoods traie alon the ede of theseoutlet settms with tailors chalk In

I TABLIB SUGGESTIONSWhen you have to take some yeast out I

do not take the jar into a warm placebut pour it out where it is kept and besure that the cork is replaced at onceYou will notice that the potato is notcooked but is grated raw Now manyof the rules that are in use call forboiled potatoes I do not suppose thatthe yeast itself is any better made withthe uncooked potatoes but it keepsbetter-

It is more likely to turn sour soonwhen the cooked potato is used just asany cooked vegetables spoil morequickly than uncooked ones It is cer¬

tainly more trying both to fingers andpatience to grate the raw potato than-to mash the cooked one but the resultwill be better and isnt that worth taking-a little trouble for

Beginning BreadtlabinpAnd now for the bread itselfThe first step is to examine your

hands to see that they are quite cleanrings removed and nails in order andyou arc ready to begin

The rule I am going to give youfor-we dont want to undertake too much atthe beginning will make a single loaf-or a pan of biscuits You can increasethe proportions as you desire a largerquantity but I would make my experi-ment

¬

with the single loafUse one cupful of milk or water luke-

warm¬

onehalf a teaspoonful of saltonehalf teaspoonful of sugar onequarter of a cupful of yeast or onequarter a yeast cake dissolved in onequarter of a cupful of lukewarm water i

and from three to three and a half cupfuls of flour

Milk BreadMilk bread I think is finergrained-

and smoother than bread that is mixedwith water and I have an idea that it ismore delicate and at the same time morenourishing Still water bread is goodand where milk is not easily obtained-or is too expensive to use for mixingyou will I am sure find no fault with

substitute-If you use milk you must heat it to

boiling in the double boiler mere scald ¬

ing will not do it must be boiled This-is to prevent the dough from turning-sour while rising as it often will do inwarm weather unless this precaution istaken

After the milk has been boiled turn itinto the mixing bowl and set it aside-to cool When just lukewarm add thesalt sugar and yeast then the flourmeasured after sifting Mix it thor ¬

oughly with a knife or spoon and thenwhen it is well mixed and is stiff enough-to knead turn it out onto a wellflouredboard and knead it until it is soft andelastic and can be worked without any11 our-

KneadingYou need not make hard work of the

kneading it is a matter of dexterityrather than of strength lightness andquickness of touch rather than heavybearing down upon the mass What youwant to do is to get it well mixed sothat every particle shall be permeatedwith the yeast and it shall be perfectlysmooth and free from lumps Use onlythe tips of the fingers and the ball ofthe hand press lightly and do not breakthe smooth crust that will form underproper kneading You may have a little

cutting allow onehalf inch or more be¬

yond then make a second chalklinethreeeighths of an inch inside the firstand mark along this line with tailorstacks which as the cloth was doubledbefore cutting will mark both sides alike

Tailors TacksTailors tacks are made by taking al-

ternately¬

one long stitch an inch ormore on the upper side and two short

I stitches through the two layers of clothto the underside Use basting threaddoubled and do not make a knot in theendMake these stitches along the chalked-line then cut every long end of threadseparate the two edges of the clothslightly and cut the threads that arebetween The short ends will remain-in the cloth and mark the seamline

Inserting the HockandEye BoneThe hookandeye bone is stitched in

the front without the boning attach ¬

ment Baste to the inside of each frontedge an inchwide strip of bias crino-line

¬

making the basting threads in theline of the tracing

Lay the waist on the machine the in ¬

side uppermost place the bone just out-side

¬

the traced line and with the curvedside down and the top of the bone notquite so high as the boning of the dartstitch through the center of the bone

Turn the front of the waist underI from top to bottom at the traced lineand make a row of stitching oneeighth-of an inch inside of the fold edge

An inch and onequarter is about thecorrect spacing of the hooks and eyessewed on alternately the hooks so theirends will come oneeighth inch insidethe edge and extending the eyes thesame distance bevond the edee Hem-a facing of the lining or a length ofbonecasing to the inside of the waistcovering sewing of the hooks andCTS-

UsimgI Wha1ekJle-

I When whalebone is employed singlebonecasing must first be sewed to the

I seams One inch of the bonecasing

I USIXESS life calls for a largeI quantity of what is called gump-

tion¬

it also imparts this rareI grace to teachable women so it

is always surprising that more workers-do1 not fit themselves to absorb it Youmay have all the learning the colleges

L

trouble the i r tirrc and pnssiblv the elastic ball put it back into the mixingsecond hut 11 hi a il rnst things bowl to rise over right Cover it wthpractice Jh p > fd s lnt gt a lean breadcloth v nh a pan or some

discouragci Llt h p n tr > mg until yta c dt tat 1c cl wh to krrp outsucceed tilr air so that no hard crust vH form

I = = 0

SEE THAT IT IS BROWNED PROPERLY AND HSOUND WHLX YOU RAP IT

And lot me tell von as a secret that I

there is no hetUr xrci for the chestand arms than this and if you have aflat client flabby muscles and droopingshoulders just take up breadmakingYoull be surprised what it will do inthe way of development

Letting Bread RiseSo sion as the dough i a smooth I

KNEADING IS TNT rSIS OFGOO IRFUi-

s turned over at the top forming alittle pocket which is to be left freefrom the seam for onehalf inch as wasthe featherbone The casing is then ruislightly fulled to each edge of the seamthe center of the casing over the stitch-ing

¬

of the seamIn order to spring the bones it is

necessary to sew through them and inorder to make this possible they should-be soaked for about an hour in warmwater Cut the end of the whaleboneround and scrape < r shave about onehalf inch with a knife or scissors blade-to make it as thin as possible

Push the bone in the casing and upinto the little pocket Secure it hereby taking two or three stitches withtwist through the center of the boneand to each side f the casin Aninch and onehalf GT1on the waistlinesew through bone and casing again

SprlagiBg tkc BoneIt is to be sprung across the waist ¬

line by pushing the bone into the casing-as tight as possible so that it bendsout slightly rounded and holding it soby sewing through hone and casing oneinch below the vaistline

There is a third method of boningthat is less work than either of the twodescribed though it is not considered-so desirable for a costume waist

Onequarter inch additional seamaIdwance must he made at every seamedge The seams are not pressed openbut are stitched togetirer threeeighthof an inch from ie nrst rov making-a casing for the bone which is slippedin and tacked as previously described

Trtigth the BoneAll the bone ould be cut off one

half inch above the lower dge oi thewaist a bias trip of crinoline is thenbasted around the bottom stretching-the outer edge of the bias where neces-sary

¬

to make it Jit smoothly both crino ¬

line and waist are then turned overthreeeighths of an inch and bastedafter which the tarnedup edge is catchstitched to the crinoline that extendsabove it

THE WOMAN IN BUSINESSAppearance Earnestness and Diligence

i Necessary Business Assets

Ii can impart but if you havent gump-tion

¬

which is only another word forcommonsense with it the knowledge-is almost useless

And commonsense aever comes to thewoman who does not want to receive itRemember that you business women

a

Oil the outride but the whole mass may-be kept soft

Be sure you put it where it will notbe in a draught or will be sub-ject

¬

to no marked change in temperatureThen you may go away and leave it forthe busy yeast i doing its work and get ¬

ting it ready for your hands in themorning

And there you find it beautifully risenready to make into the loaf or the bis-cuit

¬

Vhen well risen it should bedouble its original bulk work it over inthe bowl doubling in from the edgestoward the center until it is smooth letit rise again which it will do quicklyuntil it is double its bulk then shape itinto a inaf and set it to rise in the panin which it is to be baked

BakinyLet it rie until it is light then bake in

an oven in which you can hold the handtwelve seconds without getting too hot-

t first you will have to ask advice andtake counsel with someone to whombreadmaking is not a novelty until youhave come to know by yourself when theoven the bread or the rolls are justright

Bake your bread from threequartersof an hour to an hourwatching it care ¬

fully all the time but more carefully at

who have failed to get on in the busyworld If you have failed look withinfor the cause rather than to any out ¬

ward condition or circumstance Therearc cases where workers are not appre-ciated

¬

and are underpaid but a goodworker can always leave the uncongenialplace for a better one

3fatMM s SteppingstoneTIme untid woman can never succeed-

in business life simply because no mancan like an untidy woman He may have-to keep her in his office for some reasonother than that she does her work wellbut he endures her rather than takes anysatisfaction out of her work And theuntidy woman about her personal ap ¬

pearance is nearly always untidy abouther work It takes the severely plainwoman with the neat business suit theabsence of trimmings the plain hairdressing and the perfect cleanliness ofbody to turn out good work

One business man confessed to hiswife that he had to move his desk be ¬

cause every time he lifted his eyes fromhis work they rested on the frowsy headand soiled collar of his stenographer-She would have been greatly surprised-to know what he thought of her as sheappeared in her wornout party finerywith her hair done in the latest and mostexaggerated style day after day but shewas not concerned enough about thewelfare of the office to notice littlethings

Some women wear out their soiledfrayed best clothes in their kitchens andthink themselves very economical whileothers who have no kitchens regard an-

i office or store as the proper place to getthe last bit of usefulness out of their

I garments If you can only have onedress let it be a neat serviceable plain

I clean oftice dress by all meanst-

IA PI Mfoe Apara8 aa Aeeet

And for your own sake and the sakeof the people who must work with you

I learn to do your hair without puffs andrats and somebody elses hair A simple

j natural arrangement that leaves time forcleanliness is a thousand times betterthan the elaborate structures somewomen build up on their heads

There is trouble ahead for the manwho must take ino his office the womanwfIo has been spoiled at home Veryfrequently it happens that a man whohas allowed his wife to rule the homeand who has never denied her anythinghe could possibly afford dies leavinghi family perfectly destitute-

Not having character enough to man-a his finances in order to lay forthe rainy day and lacking the patience

I arid firmness necessary to educate hiswile along this line the man drops out

I of Ins place leaving a spoiled almosthelpless widow to do what she can 19

j I-

a as

the last See that it browns properlya lovely soft golden brown with not

a hint of a scorchand that it has ahollow sound when you rap it with yourjknuckle

Having mastered breadmaking youmay call yourself a cook It seems a dryand uninteresting branch of proKienovn that line 1 admit hut if Wtt consider

b A nrtessarv in rulc brci1 is how> eparable fnm ci r cer > mal you

AS A HOLLOW

will realize the importance of knowingthoroughly how to prepare this funda ¬

mental foodTo sweeten the weeks lesson how ¬

ever I am giving you some additionalhousehold suggestions

C nferve and Marmalades

Conserves are superlative preservesThere is no difference between the twoin proportions of fruit and sugar theoldfashioned rule of pound for poundbeing followed in the majority of recipes-for conserves but the method of cook ¬

ing the fruit after the sugar is addedmakes the difference a flavorful onebetween conserves and preserves

When making preserves the fruit iscooked in the syrup to the done degreeonly a careful housewife taking greatcare her peaches plums pears or whatnot do not lose their fair proportionsthrough overcooking but in makingconserves of which there are two kindsthe soft and the dry long cooking isthe rule-

Conserves

Soft conserves demand a slow fire and-a long time over it in order to reach thenecessary condition of smooth firmness

ward supporting the children and her-self

¬

That woman will wear the patienceentirely out of her employer unless shehas sense enough to know circumstances-alter cases

There arevmany women of that classwho have never learned that importantlesson in business all over the land to-

day¬

as weary employers can testifyTheir way is always right and every-body

¬

else is in error If anyone ven-tures

¬

to disagree with them tears arecalled into requisition and the averagebusiness man hates tears worse than hedoes poison <

Business as BnalceKPerhaps the greatest nuisance of all in

business life is the woman who is onlyworking until she gets married Nowall women have in their hearts the feel ¬

ing that when the right man comes alongthe position will be cheerfully given upbut the successful workers are not outhunting up the right man They arequietly and carefully attending to theirduties knowing that ideally happy mar ¬

riages are not made by the woman in thecase doing the courting-

The entrance of a manany maninto some places of business is the sig ¬

nal for the women workers to sit up

NEW IDEAS COOKINGAppetizing Inexpensive Novelties

I Hutspot is a Dutch dish with a his ¬

tory and is eaten with especial relishon the anniversary of the raising of thesiege of Leyden during which time ofhardship it had ks origin Beef porkcarrots onions and potatoes are the in-

gredients¬

Proportions do not matterI though there should be about twice asmuch beef <as there is of pork Cookthe meat and carrots cut in small piecesuntil the latter are nearly done thenadd the otber vezetaWes cut small agenerous piece of butter and simmeruntil cooked

I 9

Staffed OaicssI

Stuffed onions cooked in papers toretain their homely savor are verytoothsome the onions throwthem into cold water and when coolremove the centers with an applecorer-Fill them with a piquantlyflavoredsausage meat wrap them in butteredpapers place them on the rack of a pancontaining an inch of water and bake in-

a quick oven for threequarters of anhour Remove from the papers forserving sprinkle them with pepper andsalt and serve with melted butter

J

for when done the fruit mtst be cookeddown to a rich velvety mass that can Wmolded and thinly sliced like cheese

To prepare dry conserves the fruit-is cooked in a rich syrup until the latterhas struck through The fruit is thendrained from the syrup and the cookingprocess continued in a cool oven or bet¬

ter under glass by the rays of the sunThis kind of conserve is usually packed-in sugar for keeping and is eaten fromthe fingers like candy

I The following recipe for what theFrench call Raisin will give a verychoice conserve Skin four pounds ofgrapes and cook with one pint of water

seeds are free from the puprub through a tine colander add foutpounds of ripe pears peeled and cut intosmall pieces and cook over a slow fireuntil reduced to threequarters of th <<

amount then add sugar in the propor ¬

tion or threequarters of a pound f itevery pound of fruit and one forevery pint of water Cook until a drofof the conserve on a chilled plate willkeep its hape

Turn into small glasses or gallipotand place in a cool oven for nine or tea

j hors When the cooking pYoces isfinished the conserve should be stiffenough to slice smoothly For appleraiMie cut in small pieces two and onehalf pounds of highflavored cooking appies put them over a slow fire wih ore

i pint of sweet cider and simmer untilI soft then add an equal quantit PI chopped seeded raisins one cupfui oi t

water or cider and four pounds of c >par cook very slowly until the ahov cfcmentioned test will apply successfulrb through a fine colander and put in-

sTall jarsI Served with tiny balls of crnm cheesT a fliff of whipped cream aiid accotn-Tmied by unsweetened wafers and chc-ioate rapine makes the finest kind 01 anirheiweet-A conserve made from citron melon isery good Make it in the proportion of-

ten pounds of melon eight pounds ofsugar four large lemons and onefourthpound of green ginger root Pare ana

j cut the melon in small pieces then coverit with lime water made of 4lbv of limeand one gallon of water Let it standfor five or six hours then drain coverwith cold water bring to the boilingpoint and drain again Put the melonthe lemons sliced and half of the sugar-in the preserving kettle and set away fortwentyfour hours then add the re¬

mainder of the sugar and cook over aslow fire for five or six hours

A dry conserve a Turkish conceit-is also made of citron and will prove-a practical novelty to many It is goodfor a luncheon sweet or to serve withicecream Pare and chop very fine a-

fresh citron cover it with slightly saltedwater and boil until tender drain andcover with diluted white wine vinegar orlemon juice and let stand at least twentyfour hours Drain again cover with athick sugar syrup made as for canningfruit and slowly boil until a thick greenpaste results then add onehalf cupful ofrosewater and continue cooking until alittle dropped in icewater can be rolled-in a firm ball Pour to the depth of onehalf inch into oiled pans coyer with fglass and stand in the sunor a coolovenfor twelve hours Cut in fancyshapes and pack in layers with granu ¬

lated sugar between in airtight boxes

Tomato MarmaladeWe are so accustomed to look upon

the humble little green tomato as fit only-to play the part of supe in the mixedpicklepot that it is hard to associate itwith a toothsome marmalade but thisfruitfor the tomato is a berryreallyshines as a marmalade ingredient Peelthe tomatoes and cut iii halves or quar-ters

¬

Add the sugar allowing aboutthirteen ounces for every pound of fruitand stand away over nights In thomorning add one lemon

and not only pay attention but demandI it They spend more time trying to attract attention in doing their work

i for they regard marriage as release frombondage and therefore everything elseis secondary

Workers net MartyrsWhen a young girl gets it into her

head that she is a martyr because shemust earn her own living the nextthought that naturally follows is thatsome man ought to support her and shesets herself to work to capture a hus-band If half the time she spends in 4

thinking and dreaming and planninabout getting away from the drudger-of were spent in doingwork well she would be a success inany walk in life i

And when the worker is a widow bent-on matrimony the situation becomes in¬

tense Pity the bachelor or widowerwho employs a designing female of thistype If he doesnt for a lodge in-

a wilderness very shortly he must bemade of flint

The ideal business life permits the em-ployer

¬

to choose his helpers but in reallife they are often thrust upon him andhe mu t bear the consequences withwhat grace Le can muster

INand for the Table

Hutspet I Date Xrlngwe

Parboil

pound

Wash drain and dry the dates stoneand cut them in small piece Spreadone cupful of these over a platter andsprinkle with lemonjuice Whip suf-ficient

¬

cream to make two large cup-fuls and sugar to sweeten fold in thestifflywhipped whites of two eggs andstir in lightly the pieces of date Ar¬

range in a deep glass dish in alternatelayers with macaroon or pongecak <

crumbs which have been verymoistened with a little fruitjuire orserve in glass dish by itself with adelicate nut cake JDate SwUwtefce

Mix equal quantities of date pulp andfinelychopped English walnut meatsMoisten slightly a little soft but ¬

ter or sweet cream spresd the mix¬

ture smoothly on thinlyrfced breadcover with another slice and press light-ly

¬

to make them hold together-Date EB4wfeb Xo 2

Mix equal amounts of date pulp andfinelychopped preserved ginger moistenwith a little of the ginger syrup andspread over lightIy ttere4 broad Cov-er

¬with another slice and finish as for

1 other sandwiches