west coast australia -...
TRANSCRIPT
Brett Atkinson Carolyn Bain, Steve Waters
West Coast Australia
#̂
Broome &the Kimberley
p205
Ningaloo Coast& the Pilbara
p183
Monkey Mia& the
Central Westp165
Around Perthp96
Margaret River & theSouthwest Coast
p121
Southern WAp147
Perth & Fremantlep50
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to West Coast Australia . . . . 4
West Coast Australia Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
West Coast Australia’s Top 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .14
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . .16
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Month by Month . . . . . . . 20
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Discover Margaret River & the Southwest Coast . . . . . . 34
West Coast Australia Outdoors . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Travel With Children . . . . 45
Regions at a Glance . . . . .47
PERTH & FREMANTLE . . . . . . . 50Perth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Fremantle . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
AROUND PERTH . . . . 96Rottnest Island . . . . . . . . 98Rockingham . . . . . . . . . . 103Peel Region . . . . . . . . . . 104Mandurah . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Southern Wheat Belt . . . 107Hyden & Wave Rock . . . . . 107Darling Range . . . . . . . . 107Kalamunda . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Mundaring . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Swan Valley . . . . . . . . . . 109Guildford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Around the Swan Valley . . . . . . . . . . 110Avon Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 112York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Toodyay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113New Norcia . . . . . . . . . . .114Wildflower Way . . . . . . . .115Moora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Wongan Hills . . . . . . . . . . . 116Sunset Coast . . . . . . . . . .116
Yanchep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Guilderton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Lancelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Turquoise Coast . . . . . . . 117Cervantes & Pinnacles Desert . . . . . . . 118Jurien Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Green Head & Leeman . . 120
MARGARET RIVER & THE SOUTHWEST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . .121Geographe Bay . . . . . . . 123Bunbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Tuart Forest National Park . . . . . . . . . . 126Busselton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Dunsborough . . . . . . . . . . 128Cape Naturaliste . . . . . . . 129Margaret River Wine Region . . . . . . . . . 130Yallingup & Around . . . . . 133Cowaramup & Wilyabrup . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Margaret River . . . . . . . . . 136Around Margaret River . . . 139Augusta & Around . . . . . . 141Southern Forests . . . . . 142
ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP
BE
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LAR
K / 50
0PX
©
SPLENDID FAIRY WREN, CAPE NATURALISTE, P129
PAU
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HA
LL / 500
PX ©
WINDJANA GORGE, P223
Contents
Nannup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Bridgetown . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Manjimup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Pemberton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Shannon National Park . . . 146
SOUTHERN WESTERN AUSTRALIA . . . . . . . .147Walpole & Nornalup . . . . . 149Denmark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Albany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Around Albany . . . . . . . . . 157Mt Barker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Porongurup National Park . . . . . . . . . . 158Stirling Range National Park . . . . . . . . . . 159Fitzgerald River National Park . . . . . . . . . . 159Bremer Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Hopetoun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Esperance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Around Esperance . . . . . . 164
MONKEY MIA & THE CENTRAL WEST . .165Batavia Coast . . . . . . . . 167Dongara-Port Denison . . . 167Geraldton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Kalbarri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Kalbarri National Park . . . 174Shark Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .175Overlander Roadhouse to Denham (Shark Bay Road) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Denham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Monkey Mia . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Gascoyne Coast . . . . . . 180Carnarvon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Quobba Coast . . . . . . . . . . 181
NINGALOO COAST & THE PILBARA . . . . . 183Ningaloo Coast . . . . . . . 186Coral Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Exmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Around Exmouth . . . . . . . 192Ningaloo Marine Park . . . 195Cape Range National Park . . . . . . . . . . 196The Pilbara . . . . . . . . . . 197Karratha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Around Karratha . . . . . . . . 199Port Hedland . . . . . . . . . . . 199Karijini National Park . . . 201
BROOME & THE KIMBERLEY . . . 205The Kimberley . . . . . . . . 208Port Hedland to Broome . . . . . . . . . . . . .208Broome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208Dampier Peninsula . . . . . . 217Derby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Devonian Reef National Parks . . . . . . . . . 222Gibb River Road . . . . . . . . 223Great Northern Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226Kununurra . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Purnululu National Park & Bungle Bungle Range . . . . . . . . . . 232Wyndham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
West Coast Australia Today . . . . . . . 236
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
Local Produce & Wineries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
Mining & the Environment . . . . . . .251
Indigenous Art in Western Australia . . 256
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 260
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 287
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURESDiscover Margaret River & the Southwest Coast . . . . . . 34
West Coast Australia Outdoors . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Local Produce & Wineries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Itineraries
Augusta
RottnestIsland
Balingup
Perth
Cape Leeuwin
I N D I A NO C E A N
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Fremantle
Bunbury
Dunsborough
Busselton
Margaret RiverNannup
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GeographeBay
A Southwest Short Circuit
If you’ve got limited time, this itinerary offers a taste of the best of the state – city life, colonial history, beaches, wildlife, wine, forests and rural roads.
Base yourself in either Perth or Fremantle and spend three days exploring the con-joined cities and one day on Rottnest Island. Hire a car and head south, stopping first at Bunbury for lunch and a visit to the Dolphin Discovery Centre. Continue on to Ge-ographe Bay, basing yourself in either Busselton or Dunsborough, and use the rest of the day to explore the beaches. Pick up a wine-region map and spend day six checking out the wineries, surf beaches and caves, all of which are close by. Base yourself in the Margaret River township that night and visit Settler’s Tavern, the local pub. The next morning, head to Augusta via Caves Rd and take the scenic detour through the karri forest along unsealed Boranup Drive. Visit Cape Leeuwin, where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, before heading back to Bunbury on a picturesque rural drive through Nannup and Balingup. From here it’s a two-hour drive back to Perth.
1 WEEK
24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
CAT
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Above: Kangaroos, Margaret River
(p130)
Right: Little Creatures brewery (p94),
Fremantle
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Above: Rottnest Island (p98)
Left: Wave Rock (p107)
26
PLAN YO
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Australia’s southwest is a magical part of the continent and this itinerary covers its main highlights. Take another week to really relax into it.
Spend three days in Perth and Fremantle and a leisurely day on Rottnest Island. Head south to Geographe Bay – stopping at Bunbury first to visit the Dolphin Discovery Centre – before overnighting in Busselton or Dunsborough. Continue for two nights in Margaret River township to explore breweries, wineries, surf beaches and caves.
The following morning head to Augusta via Caves Rd and detour through the karri forest along scenic Boranup Drive. Visit Cape Leeuwin, where the Indian and South-ern Oceans meet, and continue to sleepy Pemberton. Highlights include more wineries, three national parks and the Karri Forest Explorer scenic drive. The next day, visit the extraordinary Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk near Walpole and overnight in Denmark. Check out beaches, wineries, breweries and good restaurants before continu-ing to Albany. Spend two days there swimming (in summer), whale watching (in win-ter), and exploring coastal national parks and the poignant National Anzac Centre.
Head north for more wineries at Mt Barker before tracking east to Porongurup National Park. Spend the next day (or two) tackling the mountainous tracks either here or at Stirling Range National Park.
From here the driving distances get longer. Continue to the South Coast Hwy and at Ravensthorpe hop down to Hopetoun. This takes three hours from the Stirling Range, so spend the afternoon at the beach. The following day, head back to the South Coast Hwy and continue east to Esperance (around 2½ hours). Base yourself there two days, spending one of them exploring Cape Le Grand National Park.
Head back on the South Coast Hwy and turn north just past Ravensthorpe for Hyden and extraordinary Wave Rock – around four hours.
The following day, head west to Brookton, turn north on the Great Southern Hwy, and follow the Avon Valley to quaintly colonial York – allow 3½ hours. For a leisurely final day back to Perth, travel via Mundaring, stopping at the Swan Valley en route for craft beer.
To make this itinerary shorter, head straight to Hyden from the Stirling Range, or take the Albany Hwy directly to Perth from Mt Barker.
3 WEEKS
York
Margaret River
Augusta Pemberton
Hopetoun
Mundaring
RottnestIsland
Hyden &Wave Rock
Mt Barker
Busselton
Denmark
Esperance
Albany
Bunbury
FremantlePerth
Cape Le GrandNational ParkStirling Range
National ParkPorongurupNational Park
Valley ofthe Giants Tree
Top Walk
SwanValley
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Dunsborough
The Southwest Uncut
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The biggest adventure in the west leaves Broome during the Dry and traverses the heart of the rugged Kimberley by 4WD.
First stop is the Dampier Peninsula, with its Aboriginal communities, beautiful beaches and mud crabs, and your last saltwater swim. Take the back road to Derby and its boabs, then on to the Gibb River Road, where Lennard River is the first of many inviting gorges. Explore wildlife and gorges at Mt Hart and remote Mornington Wilderness Camp, and look for examples of Wandjina art at Galvans Gorge and Mt Elizabeth Station. Turn off onto the Kalumburu Road, check the road conditions at Drysdale River and drive on to the Mitchell Plateau, with its forests of livistona and mind-blowing falls. Marvel at the area’s rock art before hitting the northern coast and ex-cellent fishing at Honeymoon Bay, just beyond the mission community of Kalumburu.
It’s all downhill from here as you retrace your route back to the Gibb, then turn left for wonderful Home Valley Station, where someone else can do the cooking and the soft beds make a pleasant change from camping. Nearby El Questro has gorges aplenty, none more beautiful than Emma Gorge. Soon you’re back on asphalt, but not for long as you take in the amazing bird life of Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve. Let Wyndham’s Five Rivers Lookout blow your mind with its view of Cambridge Gulf, before heading for the civility of Kununurra, with its excellent food and supplies. You can look for fruit-picking work, ride a canoe down the mighty Ord River, or jump back behind the wheel for the wonders of Purnululu National Park and the orange-domed Bungle Bungle Range.
Darwin and the Northern Territory are beckoning, or you can follow the Great North-ern Hwy back to Broome, stopping in at beautiful Geikie Gorge for a relaxing boat cruise where you might spot freshwater crocs. If you don’t see any, don’t worry, as nearby Windjana Gorge has loads sunning themselves on the river banks. Grab your torch and head for a cold wade through the icy waters of Tunnel Creek, with its bats and rock art, before planting the pedal back to Broome, where you won’t care how much that beer costs any more.
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Above: Windjana Gorge (p223)
Right: Boab trees in Derby (p220)
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Left: Dolphins, Monkey Mia (p179)
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You’ll camp most of the way on this link between Ningaloo and Broome, with long empty beaches, shady pools and surpris-ingly good food.
From Exmouth, take Burkett Rd back to the highway, and head north, turning off at Nanutarra for the long, scenic haul up to Tom Price. After stocking up, spend the next few days camped in Karijini National Park, exploring the sublime gorges and indulging in a spot of peak bag-ging among the state’s highest mountains. Don’t miss a swim at Hamersley Gorge en route to the relaxing, shady pools in Millstream Chichester National Park. Admire the mesas and breakaways of the Chichester Range before dropping down to the coast, checking out the petroglyphs at Murujuga, then onto lovely Point Sam-son for snorkelling. Take the North West Coastal Hwy directly to Port Hedland, and indulge in city treats before camping at remote Eighty Mile Beach, where you might spot nesting turtles. Your last leg is a long stretch of nothing as you skirt the Great Sandy Desert to arrive in tropical Broome.
1 WEEK Pilbara Jewels
Beautiful beaches, spectacular sunsets and diverse wildlife are constants on this coastal cruise.
Take Indian Ocean Dr north from Perth to Cervantes for sunset on the otherwordly Pinnacles Desert. Cruise the wildflower-laden Kwongan back roads and marvel at the flora at Lesueur National Park before snorkelling with sea lions at Green Head. Follow the flowers out to Perenjori, then hit the cafes and museums of Geraldton. Go kitesurfing, then move on to the won-derful Kalbarri coastline. Enjoy a canoe in the gorges before sampling the outback on the long drive to World Heritage–listed Shark Bay. Watch dolphins at Monkey Mia, go sailing with dugongs, and learn about ‘Country’ on an Indigenous cultural tour. Check out the stromatolites of Hame-lin Pool, before putting in more road time on the stretch north to Carnarvon. Drop into Gnaraloo for world-class waves before arriving at tiny Coral Bay and Exmouth, where whale sharks, humpback whales, manta rays and turtles inhabit the exquisite Ningaloo Marine Park. You can fly out of Exmouth, drive back to Perth in two days (overnighting in historic Gree-nough), or push on to the gorges of Karijini.
2 WEEKS
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acqu
aint
ed w
ith b
ilbie
s, b
oodi
es a
nd
woyl
ies a
t Dry
andr
a’s e
xcel
lent
Bar
na
Mia
Ani
mal
San
ctua
ry. P
erth
is ju
st a
co
uple
of h
ours
awa
y fr
om th
is
prot
ecte
d st
and
of e
ucal
ypt f
ores
t. (p
106)
DRY
AND
RA W
OO
DLA
ND
Suns
ets f
rom
the
mai
nlan
d’s m
ost
west
erly
poi
nt ju
st d
on’t
com
e an
y be
tter
, nor
doe
s the
fish
ing.
Nea
rby,
Di
rk H
arto
g Is
land
is re
plet
e wi
th
hist
ory,
beg
ging
to b
e ex
plor
ed. J
ust
gett
ing
here
is a
n ad
vent
ure.
(p17
6)
STEE
P PO
INT
& D
IRK
H
ARTO
G IS
LAN
D
DRY
AND
RA W
OO
DLA
ND
33PLAN
YOUR TRIP O
FF TH
E BE
AT
EN
TR
AC
K
287
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541539th edition – November 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 238 7© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSBrett AtkinsonPerth & Fremantle, Around Perth, Margaret River & the Southwest Coast, Southern WA For this edition, Brett uncovered new restaurants, bars and distilleries in Perth and Fremantle, and jumped from beach to forest and back to beach throughout Margaret River and the southwest. In Albany, a poignant highlight was the National Anzac Centre telling the story of brave WWI soldiers. Brett has contributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning Europe, Africa, Asia,
the United States and the Pacific, and covered over 60 countries as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures. Brett also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand (other than History) and Survival Guide chapters.
Carolyn BainMonkey Mia & the Central West, Ningaloo Coast & the Pilbara A travel writer and editor for 16 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various corners of the globe, including London, Denmark, St Petersburg and Nantucket. She is regularly drawn north from her base in Melbourne, Australia to cover diverse destinations for Lonely Planet, from dusty outback Australia to luminous Greek islands, by way of Maine’s lobster shacks and Slovenia’s alpine lakes. The Nordic
region stakes a large claim to her heart, with repeated visits to Iceland and Denmark for work and pleasure.Carolyn writes about travel and food for a range of publishers; see carolynbain.com.au for more.
Steve WatersBroome & the Kimberley Travel and adventure have always been Steve’s life, he couldn’t imagine a world without them. He’s been using Lonely Planet guide-books for over 30 years in places as diverse as Iran, Central Asia, Kamchatka, Tuva, the Himalaya, Canada, Patagonia, the Australian Outback, NE Asia, Myanmar and the Sahara. Little wonder then that he finally got a gig with the company he was supporting! He’s contributed to Iran, Indonesia and the past 4
editions of Western Australia and come any September you’re likely to find him in a remote gorge somewhere in the Kimberley.Travel gives you a unique view of the world. Patience, acceptance, resourcefulness and flexibility are all lessons well learnt. Plans change, where some people see obstacles, others see possibilities. Go with an open mind. But go!
Contributing WriterMichael Cathcart Michael teaches history at the Australian Centre, University of Melbourne. He is well known as a broadcaster on ABC Radio National and has presented history programs on ABC TV. Michael wrote the History chapter.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’