Weaves & leaves at Chelsea Physic Garden

2017

Flax (Linum usitatissimum) and Hemp (Cannabis sativa). Photo credit: Nell Jones

In 2017 our theme is ‘Weaves & Leaves’ in which we show the amazing array of fibres

that are derived from plants. Set in the Garden we display the fabrics and the plants

they are made from in close proximity. During the course of our project research we

learnt a lot more than we could easily put on our interpretation boards in the Garden.

So, this document will share that additional information.

Abaca Botanical Name: Musa textilis Origin: Philippines Plant part used: Stem Products produced: Sinamay History: When the Spanish landed in the Philippines in the 1520’s the

indigenous peoples were already producing sinamay. Environmental Impact: Some loss of natural habitats during plantation establishment.

Generally very low impact on the environment as few pesticides, fertilisers and other chemicals are used.

Video: Harvesting abaca fibres from the abaca tree https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jw16RNCC83k

History and Production of Sinamay – Parkin Fabrics trailer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQJYu9dBBO4

Bamboo - Fargesia rufa ‘Great Wall’ – Photo Credit: Nell Jones

Bamboo Botanical Name: Fargesia rufa Origin: Asia Plant part used: Stems Products produced: Viscose Rayon History: Mainstream production began in 2003. Environmental Impact: Turning the raw bamboo to usable fibre uses many highly

polluting chemicals. Video: The Miracle Plant - by Cariloha Company

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGdMTIxU9Uc

Bamboo Fabric Project https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epxesUmQVro

Musa acuminata. Photo credit: Nell Jones

Banana Botanical Name: Musa acuminata Origin: South East Asia Plant part used: Leaves/stems Products produced: Manila Hemp History: First observed in the Philippines in the 1500’s. Environmental Impact: Low. Plants crop for up to 40 years with minimal intervention. Video: Banana Fibre Extraction

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqBZ5e7hLKk Banana Fibre Extraction (mechanical) - Bangladesh https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhZW2n-rqys Banana Fibre Stripping and Use of a Homemade Decorticator https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F4C4d8OkYs Beech Tree Botanical Name: Fagus sylvatica Origin: Europe Plant part used: Regenerated cellulose Products produced: Modal Rayon History: Modal fibres were originally developed in Japan in 1951. Environmental Impact: The largest producer of Modal Rayon uses sustainably

harvested beech trees and a closed loop system that reuses chemicals, water and waste generated by the process.

Video: Lenzing Modal Textile https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uV2pbwR7gI0

Cannabis Botanical Name: Cannabis sativa Origin: Asia

Plant part used: Stems Products produced: Hemp Fabric History: In cultivation for at least 8000 years. Environmental Impact: Low and it’s 8 times stronger than cotton! Video: Weaving Hemp Fabric with Mrs Di https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuTeHjOSyh8

Bringing it Home – Industrial Hemp Solutions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZavHPQ8ZCLE

China Grass Botanical Name: Boehmeria nivea Origin: China, India & Indonesia Plant part used: Stems Products produced: Ramie History: Ramie was used in mummy cloths in Egypt during the period 5,000 –

3,000 BC. Environmental Impact: It can be harvested many times a year and so can rapidly

deplete soil fertility and require many fertilisers. Also subject to a number of pests and diseases.

Video: Weaving of Mosi (fine ramie) in the Hansan region https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUpXye1YjsY

Coconut Botanical Name: Cocos nucifera Origin: India and Indonesia. Plant part used: Seed Products produced: Coir History: Traditionally used for cordage, mats and mattresses, new innovation

has produced a fabric that is used by top cyclists in their performance sports-wear.

Environmental Impact: This is a by-product so low environmental impact but the farming of coconuts does threaten the local environment as more land is given over to it.

Video: Coconut Fibre extracting machine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmnYiEDHtts Coconut Fibre Processing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yy34J51WY0A

3 Ply Rope Making Machine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTqLriefob0

Cotton Botanical Name: Gossypium hirsutum & Gossypium herbaceum Origin: Americas, Africa and India. Plant part used: Seeds Products produced: Cotton, canvas, duck and many more. History: The earliest evidence of using cotton as a textile fibre is from India

around 3,000BC. Environmental Impact: High. Cotton represents nearly half the fibre used to make

clothes and it can take 20,000 litres of water to produce 1kg of cotton and accounts for around 24% of the global sales of insecticides.

Video: Cotton boll popping open- Time lapse https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQuXjj5ze6c The story of cotton https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAUQNMldp_Y

Flax Botanical Name: Linum usitatissimum Origin: Europe Plant part used: Stems Products produced: Linen History: In use for over 30,000 years Environmental Impact: Low. Large agricultural production can require pesticides. Video: How is Linen Made (using modern technology) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZrZZefkohE Traditional Irish Flax Farming - Harvesting and Retting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yw1eXl9lh3o Traditional Irish Flax Farming - Scutching the Flax https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXoSpLsGMQs Gum Tree Botanical Name: Eucalyptus sp. Origin: Australia Plant part used: Regenerated cellulose Products produced: Lyocell History: Developed in America in 1972. Environmental Impact: Low. Whilst toxic chemicals are used in the production, 99%

of the chemical, water and waste is reused in a closed loop system. The process uses 10-20% less water than the production of cotton fabric.

Video: Tencel – The functional fibre from nature – Lenzing Media https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQIw6Ljb4S0

Kapok Tree

Botanical Name: Ceiba pentandra and other Ceiba species Origin: South America with other species in Africa

and Asia Plant part used: Seed Products produced: Java cotton, Java kapok, Silk Cotton. History: Traditional use of kapok as a fibre was first

observed by Dutch colonists of Java in the 17th Century. Cultivated in Java since the 10th Century.

Environmental Impact: Sustainable as the fibre is harvested from

seed pods. Low environmental impact as little or no fertilisers or pesticides are used.

Kapok Tree – Ceiba pentandra. Photo Credit: Nell Jones

Video: Ceiba pentandra - Java kapok https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUB6abO9

Dok

Nalta Jute Botanical Name: Corchorus olitorius Origin: Africa or Aisa Plant part used: Stems Products produced: Jute, Burlap, Hessian History: At least 1,000 years in cultivation Environmental Impact: Low. Little irrigation, fertiliser or pesticides are required. Video: Jute in Bangladesh https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucP_f9gidZM

Natal Fig Botanical Name: Ficus natalensis Origin: NE South Africa to Uganda and Kenya Plant part used: Bark Products produced: Barkcloth or Olubugo History: The process of making barkcloth predates the invention of weaving.

Barkcloth has been made from this tree for about 700 years. Environmental Impact Low. The bark of the tree is harvested, without harming the tree. Did you know? Bark cloth was demonised by both Christianity and Islam and the

introduction of other fabrics by Arab traders and colonialists caused the bark cloth trade to deteriorate. Bark cloth is still produced from the Natal Fig but only for some specific cultural rituals.

Video: Bark cloth making in Uganda https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhznFtHhkBo

Nettle Botanical Name: Urtica dioica Origin: Europe, Asia, Northern Africa, and Western North America. Plant part used: Stems Products produced: Nettle fabric History: People have been wearing nettle fabrics for over 2,000 years. Environmental Impact: Low. Not very susceptible to pests and diseases so few pesticides required. Video: How to make Fabric from Nettles

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=361YVBkFylo

Making Ramie in Uonuma region, Niigata Prefecture https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KXbotKCG_M&feature=endscreen&NR=1

Kenaf

Botanical Name: Hibiscus cannabinus Origin: Southern Asia Plant part used: Stems Products produced: Kenaf fibre History: Kenaf was grown in Egypt at least

3,000 years ago to eat and to make into fibres. It’s now also used in the bodywork of some cars.

Environmental Impact Low. Sustainable and renewable with

a short growing period of four months. Low requirement for fertilisers and pesticides.

Video: Mississippi Kenaf yields new products https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnwGMKDqcdY

Kenaf – Hibiscus cannabinus. Photo Credit: Nell Jones

Kenaf: Grow it: Recycle it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOrTQx5p4wQ Kenaf Panels https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8aiqMhLyl8

Kenaf Products https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cxjqToxdR0

Pineapple Botanical Name: Ananas comosum Origin: Tropical Americas Plant part used: Leaves Products produced: Piña History: Pinsky cloth weaving has been a traditional craft in the Philippines for

centuries. Traditionally it has been used for Barong Tagalog; embroidered formal shirts.

Environmental Impact: High: Growers can use up to 20kg of pesticides/ ha during each growing cycle.

Video: Weaving Pina cloth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRvWiiGoOzI Pine Tree Botanical Name: Pinus sp. Origin: Northern hemisphere Plant part used: Cellulose extracted from wood pulp. Products produced: Rayon History: Rayon was discovered by scientists (including Louis Pasteur) in the

1860’s when they were trying to discover how to combat a disease that was attacking silk worms. It was the first man-made fibre.

Impact: High. It uses a lot of water and energy to produce and there are issues around dealing with the waste chemicals that are used in the production.

Video: How to Make Rayon – lab experiment https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aRBn-9yV8Y

Synthetic Fibres – Rayon 1949 film https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HplblsHJs8Y

Paperbark Mulberry Botanical Name: Broussenetia papyrifera Origin: Asia Plant part used: Bark Products produced: Tapa cloth History: The Polynesians have produced tapa cloth for centuries. In ancient

times it was used to denote rank and social status. Today it is worn for special occasions.

Environmental impact: Low. It is not made on an industrial scale. Video: Tapa Cloth: Harvesting the Mulberry

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rDLNEDrpWw Tapa Cloth: Processing the Mulberry https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1wFRzp05qk

Sisal Botanical Name: Agave sisilana Origin: Southern Mexico Plant part used: Leaves Products produced: Sisal History: Sisal was used by the Aztecs and the Mayans to make crude fabrics and

paper Environmental Impact: Sisal plantations replaced native forests and so caused

environmental degradation initially. Now it is low impact as few fertilisers or herbicides are required.

Video: Sisal Fibre Production https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijHvfn2vcss

Sisal Fibre Processing, Yucatan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pyiZEIppFSc

Soya Bean Botanical Name: Glycine max Origin: Asia Plant part used: Regenerated vegetable protein Products produced: Soybean fibre History: Henry Ford hired chemists to produce artificial silk in 1931. They

succeeded in making a textile fibre of spun soy protein fibres but it never reached the commercial market.

Environmental Impact: Debatable. As a by-product of tofu production the protein is from a renewable source. However to grow the soy requires high levels of water and pesticides. Also increased production can cause habitat destruction by giving land over to agriculture.