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Final Touch By Ed Pearce

I sharpen my broadheads until they can pass the sticky test: when the weight of the broadhead is balanced on a fingernail, and a small amount of force is applied, the edge sticks in place and does not move. If the head scoots off the end of the nail easily, then it is not "sticky" sharp, which may be adequate; but who wants just adequate broadheads?

After some time--perhaps due to moving the arrows in and out of the quiver--the broadheads stop passing the sticky test. I cannot explain why, but eventually the heads become less sharp. I usually perform the sticky test when I am bored in my tree stand and looking for something to do. I am no longer sur-prised to see the broadheads fail. Invariably, I do not bring my diamond sharpening stone, but I have come up with an inter-mediate remedy to touch up the edges.

A three-blade Woodsman head is very easy to touch up be-cause you can face two of the blades together on each head. Start by holding one arrow-mounted broadhead securely in your lap. Set the other one on top, and allow the blades to come into flush contact. Then apply slight pressure while mov-ing the top head along the bottom head until the tip is reached. For a single bevel head, you have to be careful to keep the blades faced. Keep in mind that this is not a sharpen-ing method; it is only to be used to touch up a previously razor-sharp head. The results will not be as precise as sharpening on a diamond stone at home, but it could produce a better blood trail.

I don't think this will work on every style of broadhead, but it works on my single bevel Grizzly broadheads, as well as my Woodsman three-blade heads. Both can be touched up in this manner. The important thing to remember is to keep the honed edges faced together in order to reestablish that micro-scopic burr. After that is accomplished, the head should pass the sticky test again.


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Cutting Feathers By Kevin Forrester

There are many ways to cut feathers before fletching an ar-row, but this tip will also work when cutting feathers that are already on the shaft. Sometimes it is necessary to trim a lower profile for arrow flight on a windy day, or you may decide that you like a banana cut feather better than a shield cut feather. You may simply find that this is the easiest and cleanest way to cut all of your feathers, before or after fletching.

Cut an old Christmas card into a thin cardboard template in any shape that you desire. Place a strip of Scotch® tape on the feather, making sure it covers the line you will be cutting. Trace the pattern onto the tape, and cut the feather with sharp scissors. The tape holds the quills together to produce

an accurate cut and a smooth edge for quiet flight.

Remove the tape and admire your work!






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Slingshots By Deed Cimperman

A slingshot can be very helpful in many bowhunting situations such as diverting a deer's attention; rousting a deer from heavy brush; hunting small game; strengthening your arms; and improving your aim. Shooting a slingshot improves your hand/eye coordination as well, and can be practiced almost anywhere. Plus, it's really fun! Formal targets are great and easy to build, but informal targets--cans, bottles, leaves, ant-hills, etc. are found everywhere. Just like bows, you'll probably want more than one slingshot! Slingshots are readily available from many places and reasona-bly priced; however, they are also very easy to make at home. Slingshots come in a variety of sizes, take up little space, and there are many types of projectiles available for ammunition. If you make your own slingshot, you may choose the crotch (the forked stick), the style of the pouch, and the length and strength of the elastic band. Natural crotches can be made from ash and maple trees or saplings. Any tree with opposite (as contrasted with alternate) branching will work. You can also make one out of a board, a heavy-duty plastic cutting board, or a piece of PVC pipe.

Elastic bands for slingshots used to come from red inner tubes, but now the choices are usually latex tubing or flat bands. La-

tex tubing comes in various wall thicknesses and diameters. Flat bands come in different strengths based on color and/or thickness. You can make them the length and the strength (width) that is best for you. A little experimentation will go a long way. The weight, size and style of the slingshot is a per-sonal decision.

Anything that will fit into the pouch will work as ammunition. You can buy ammunition such as marbles, lead balls and bul-lets, or paint balls; or you can make your own from rocks, acorns, pecans, crab apples or taconite (flint-like rocks). If you have the equipment, you can cast your own lead bullets and balls or you can make them from potter’s clay or clay from the ground. The list goes on and on. Paint balls are a really fun type of ammo. They are biodegradable, durable, a good size to shoot, and they make a terrific mark on the target. Acorns and pecans are not very heavy, nor do they fly very straight for long distances. When they hit something fairly hard, they dis-integrate and go back into the soil. However, they can be used where accuracy and momentum are not important as for ex-ample, to get a deer's attention, turn its direction, make it fo-cus on an unknown, or scare it out of hiding.

Shooting a bow and shooting a slingshot go hand in hand. You may want to consider the right slingshot and ammo as an addi-tion to your regular hunting equipment. It will fit right into your backpack, pocket, or vehicle. Give it your best shot…you may be surprised.






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Paper Tuning By Bic Ulrich

While paper tuning bare shafts, I couldn't distinguish which end of the tear was from the field point and which end was from the nock. In order to correct arrow flight, you need to know which way the nock end of the shaft is flying. To solve that prob-lem, I apply lipstick to the field point. It will leave a mark on the point end of the tear—which tells me if the nock was flying left, right, high or low—then I can make adjustments accordingly. Another tip: Get large sheets of paper for tuning from contractors who are throwing out their blueprints. Secure the paper tightly across a frame or an empty cardboard box so that the arrow goes through the paper.






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Mixed Bag By Robin Conrads

This week we have a few tips that are very brief, but I still think are useful.

Hanging Targets by Harry L. Ort

A bag target can be placed on the ground, against a tree or hay bale, or hung from a homemade or manufactured frame. I found a simple and cheap way to hang my target, and it's easy to take down or move. I use two shepherd's hooks like those found in the garden section of most department stores. You'll never damage them or an arrow if you miss the target.

Anvil Pruners by Rick Burgin (Blacksmith)

I carry a small pair of anvil pruners in my hunting bag to trim brush. When gutting a deer, I have found a way to avoid nick-ing the bladder and getting urine on the meat. I cut around the vent as usual; but instead of sawing through the pelvic bone, I

slip the anvil of my pruners into the vent and snip the pelvic bone easily with no mess. It sounds gross, but it does work well; and I don't have to carry a saw anymore.

Mark the Spot by Clint Chevalier

When I bowhunt, whether from a treestand or on the ground, I always carry an arrow tipped with a field point in my quiver. I keep it in the same place in my quiver so it doesn't get mixed up with my broadhead tipped arrows. After shooting an ani-mal, I shoot the field-tipped arrow into the ground where the animal was last seen. Many times, when you climb down from the treestand or walk to the area, things look very different. Having an arrow sticking up gives me a good starting point for the tracking process.






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Treestand Bow Holder By R. A. Burgin, aka Blacksmith

I have devised an easy way to hold my bow upright and ready while I’m in a treestand.

The bow holder is a rubber chair tip attached to the bottom of my treestand with a zip tie. You can find rubber chair tips in any hardware store. I also attached a small carabiner to the shooting rail with another zip tie. Place the bottom limb into the chair tip and slip the bowstring through the carabiner. The bow stands upright within easy reach, and I am quickly ready to shoot with very little movement.






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Sharpening Arrow By Scott McKee

This may not be a new idea, but my friends and I use this method to safely sharpen screw-in broadheads. Cut an old arrow (aluminum or carbon) to about 8” long. Then wrap it heavily with black electrician’s tape so that it has some texture and lots of bumps, which makes it easier to hold. Screw in the broadhead, and you are ready to sharpen it while safely holding on to the arrow.






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Single Bevel Sharpening By Joe Furlong

George M. wrote: How do you sharpen a single bevel broad-head, or convert a two-sided head into a single bevel? It is practically impossible to remake a two-sided broadhead into a satisfactory single bevel head. It is also more difficult to sharpen a single bevel broadhead that does not have a factory-machined edge. Some archers get a single bevel head reasonably sharp with a file, but they are few and far between. Most folks can't keep the file at a consistent angle, and that is the key to getting the edge sharp. Most popular single bevel broadheads come ground with a preset bevel, commonly about 25 degrees. Broadheads that are factory-beveled may be sharpened with a commercial sharpener designed for that specific task. There are several good sharpeners on the market with the capability of sharpening both knives and broadheads, and some are spe-cifically made just for broadheads. All of them will accomplish the ultimate goal, however; the level of sharpness depends on the person's ability and experience using these helpful tools. A factory-beveled broadhead may also be sharpened with a natural sharpening stone, diamond stone, or multiple grades of "wet or dry" sandpaper mounted on a hard flat surface. Most stones or sandpaper of medium to fine grit will do the job. The finer grit will result in a slicker finish and sharper edge. The secret to sharpening a single bevel head is to follow the factory bevel; otherwise you will be creating a new bevel, which will result in unnecessary metal removal and a lot of futile effort. The method I will describe is best accomplished with the broadhead mounted on an arrow. To ensure that you are following the factory bevel, place the broadhead face down with the beveled edge flat against the sharpening surface.

Hold onto the arrow shaft and place your finger or thumb on the broadhead with just enough pressure to keep the beveled edge flat during the sharpening process. The other hand is free

to hold the stone or sandpaper.

Moving the broadhead in a circular motion, rather than back and forth, makes it easier to keep the bevel flat on the sharp-ening surface.When the desired sharpness is attained, turn the broadhead over and place the backside flat on the edge of the sharpening surface. Move the broadhead back and forth, not circular, to remove the metal burr that remains on the edge.

The number of motions required in both of these steps de-pends on the condition of the blade. Sharpening the backside will probably require just a few strokes. No matter which method is used to sharpen the broadhead, stropping should always be the final step to polish the edge to bring it to the ultimate sharpness. Stropping is not complicated; a scrap piece of leather mounted on a board or placed on a flat surface will work. A piece of smooth cardboard will also accomplish the desired effect. The most important thing to remember, as with the sharpening step, is to keep the sharpened edge flat on the strop. Drag the broadhead across the strop, away from the cutting edge. Pick the broadhead up at the end of each stroke so as not to round the cutting edge. When restarting the stroke, make sure the edge is again placed flat against the strop. Both sides of the broadhead cutting edge can be stropped. To test for sharpness, place the broadhead at an angle and lightly drag the edge across your thumbnail. It should cut into the nail or snag. If it skips across the nail, the edge needs more work!






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Tape Storage By Ed Streit

When I head to the woods every fall, I always find a need for tape. I keep a roll of duct tape in the truck and a small roll of elec-trical tape in my fanny pack. Last year was my first trip to Colorado to pursue the great wapiti. As a newbie heading into the backcountry for the first time, I packed everything I could think of into my daypack. Alas, there was no room for a roll of duct tape. I came up with the perfect solution: I taped everything that was in the bag! Well, not exactly. I put tape on my flashlights, water bottle, pack frame, knife sheath and any other items I was carrying. As we all know, there are countless uses for tape: wound closure, emergency shelter setup, bow tip protectors, blood trail marker, bow repair. The possibilities are endless. Also endless are the types of tape that you can use, from the old stand-by duct tape to painter's (aka masking) tape, electrical tape, clear packing tape, packing tape with the little strings in it, Scotch tape, and my favorite, self vulcanizing electrical splicing tape (awesome). Now there is tape at my fingertips whenever I need it, but it doesn't take up any noticeable room in my pack.






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Cutting Carbon Arrows By Billy Paquette

I have found an easy and economical way to cut carbon arrow shafts using a hacksaw blade. To get the perfect cut, drag the blade backwards, but don't move it forward. That will give you a clean cut without destroying the arrow. I cut all my arrows that way and get a perfectly straight cut without the need for an arrow cutter.






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Homemade Emergency Fire Starters By Sammy Smallwood

When hunting in the backcountry of Colorado and elsewhere, you sometimes get caught in a rain shower and need to get warm and dry off quickly, or you might discover that you're lost and need to start a signal fire. I started making these fire start-ers about ten years ago, and have found them to be very effective at starting a fire quickly, even when all you have to work with is damp or wet wood. Fill each compartment of a paper egg carton with wood shavings or sawdust. Use an old pot or teakettle—I found mine at Goodwill—to melt some canning wax or an old candle. Pour the melted wax into each compartment and allow it to cool com-pletely. Tear or cut the carton to make individual fire starters. There is no need for a wick; simply light the side of the carton. One of these fire starters burned very hot for thirty minutes without any added fuel! The flames were about 12" high. That gives you plenty of heat to get a larger fire going without any trouble.






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Splitting Turkey Feathers By Nick Van Driel

Spring turkey season provides us with the opportunity to collect some of the best feathers for fletching.

Everyone has his favorite technique for processing feathers, and recently I found a better way to do the first step: splitting the quill. I've tried hand and pliers stripping, and pulling against a knife blade stuck in a cutting board, but neither method gave me control for a straight cut; however, my skinning knife does. With a deep belly and rounded cutting edge, you can insert the point into the quill, punch it through, and then roll the edge through the quill channel for a clean, controlled split.

The feathers are then ready for your favorite grinding technique.






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Spring Cleaning By Robin Conrads

Sorry, none of the items pictured are for sale.

After many long, grueling months of winter, spring is finally here: birds chirping, trees blooming, and me sneezing! T.J.'s office looks like a bomb went off, and we need to get some of this clutter under control. That got me to thinking.... Do you have archery equipment (bows, arrows, broadheads, etc.) lying around gathering dust? Maybe your old items would be perfect for someone looking for less expensive equipment. We offer free Classified Ads to all members on our website, Trad-bow.com. You can buy, sell or trade used bows, equipment, books...anything related to traditional archery. This feature is for members’ used items only; please don't post business ads or outfitters in this area. Here is the Help Page to explain how the system works. The money you make from selling your used items might help you get that new bow or equipment you need for this fall's hunt. If you are shopping for a bargain, check our site often to see if new ads have been posted. When you are shopping for new items, be sure to check out the Advertisers on Tradbow.com first. Because of them, you get all the free features on our site.





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Take a Claw Hammer to Camp By Jeff Reiter

When camping, whether for pleasure or for a hunt, it seems that the tricky decision is what to bring and what to leave at home. I believe that one of the pleasures of camping and traveling for hunts is refining that short list of essential items; however, a claw hammer should be on that list, if at all possible. I suggest one with rather straight claws, such as a framing hammer. A small assortment of nails can prove invaluable in camp. Why settle for hammering with a hatchet or camp ax if you can use a regular hammer?

I once worked with a man who repeated his mantra every time we pushed or pounded on something without going for a ham-mer: “Never use your hand as a hammer.” I have watched numerous campers push, stomp, and lean against tent stakes to in-sert them into the ground without a tool, and then tug and struggle to get them out later. How often is someone grabbing a log in camp in order to pound something? Claw hammer to the rescue! It is a familiar tool that is easy to use and extremely effi-cient. It is great for inserting tent stakes into the ground, but it REALLY shines when pulling them out.






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Broadhead Wrench By Rob Bingel

I have been shooting recurves for more than 50 years, and making Flemish bowstrings for decades. The other day I was tying on a bowstring nock and finished the spool of BCY serv-ing material. It caught my eye that the empty spool looked very similar to many of the broadhead wrenches I've used over the years. I thought to myself, "Self, go see if that'll work." I tried a few different broadheads, and the 2- and 3-bladed models fit perfectly, but not so much the 4-bladed ones. How-ever, with a little maneuvering, I could get them to fit, too. I thought I'd share this little tidbit with my fellow string makers and bowhunters. Before you trash a used item, perhaps you might want to take a second look and think, “Can I use this for anything else?”






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Put Some Punch Into Your Carbon Arrows

By Nick Van Driel Wood arrows are my favorite for most of my shooting, but in some hunting situations the consistency and strength of car-bon make it a better choice. I like to use 600+ grain arrows for hunting. Brass inserts and heavy broadheads help to increase the FOC, but my arrows still need additional weight that's dis-tributed throughout the shaft. Although heavy carbon shafts are available, there's an easy way to put weight into the shafts you already own: using 1/4” polyethylene braided rope. First, remove the screw-in point and nock from the arrow. Next,run a very thin piece of wire from the front to the back of the shaft through the hole in the insert. If it's clogged with glue, clean it with a small drill bit. Then measure a piece of rope that will add the desired weight. Melt the ends of the rope, then loop and twist the wire at the back of the shaft through one end of the rope.

Lubricate the plastic rope with spray furniture wax, and push it in as far as you can. It should be a sliding fit. When you can't push it any farther, gently pull the wire at the front until the end of the rope is at the back of the insert. Pull the wire to break it off. Replace the point and nock.

The rope will slide back (and then forward) when you shoot, and may even pop the nock off the shaft. If this happens, stuff the back of the shaft with thin plastic film (plastic food wrap or packaging “rope”) and reinstall the nock. This will stabilize the rope, but adds only a small amount of weight. Since the entire process is reversible, you can tune your ar-rows with test shots and adjust the amount of rope according-ly. Polyester (core and sheath) rope will give you even more weight if you need it. This technique works with aluminum arrows as well. An article in an old TBM gave me the idea to use it with carbon arrows.






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Scent Control Ideas By Marco Aguiar

To keep hunting clothes scent free, line a duffle bag with a large, heavy, commercial trash bag. Place the clothes into the trash bag with an open box of Arm & Hammer Fridge-n-Freezer® baking soda. I also place bundles of white sage be-tween the trash bag and duffle bag, as it is native to the area I hunt. Editor's Note: I asked readers to send in their scent control ideas. Please use caution when spraying anything on your clothes or skin. It is wise to test a small area first to make sure it doesn't cause a reaction. Many of the tips use natural scents from the area being hunted, so keep in mind if someone sug-gests oak leaves and there are no oak trees where you hunt, that won't work for you. Use scents native to the area where YOU hunt. Thanks to all of the readers who replied with ideas. Fred T. wrote: When out on extended hunting trips, I "wipe down" with a solution of baking soda and water to help stay scent free. Wool clothing is also good, as it is less likely to hold odors.

Eric W. wrote: We keep all our hunting clothes in Rubbermaid® totes. I also get some cheap nylons from the drug store, fill them with leaves from our hunting area, and put a few of them in with the clothes after washing and between hunting trips. MadDog wrote: A chlorophyll pill in the mouth can help hide your breath. The main thing is to hunt the wind--no matter what you do. If the wind isn't in your favor you're in trouble. Kevin S. wrote: I like this idea. Along the same lines as the sage brush you mentioned, I spend a day, roughly a month be-fore season, picking bunches of aromatic plants or tree boughs local to the area I will be hunting. I fold my hunting clothes and gillie suit around them, and then set them aside in a plastic bag. My feeling is that this allows the hunting garb to marinate in the scent of the sage, fir, mugwort, bay, etc., and helps to disguise my human scent. Chris N. wrote: In mid-Missouri the tip is to let your clothes air dry, then put them in a plastic bag with oak leaves, or native plants where you hunt. Butch B. wrote: I use H.S. Scents® cover scent wafers. They come in cedar, pine, fresh earth (dirt), western sage and white oak acorn. I put them into every container that holds my hunting clothes. I get them from Cabela's online. Don B. wrote: I try not to use artificial scents? I believe that the deer can tell the difference. I also use Arm & Hammer® baking soda on my clothes and apply plain cornstarch to my body. Don't use the expensive brands on the baby aisle; get it from the food section of the grocery store. When I had an oak tree in my yard, I would boil acorns and spray this formula using a squirt gun or unused spray bottle purchased at the dollar store. Since I live in central Alabama, there is always some damp ground close to the area I hunt. I scrape my shirt or jacket on the damp ground to absorb as much natural odor as possible. Also, I grasp a handful of green pine needles and rub them on my clothing. When there has been controlled burning, I rub my clothing with the ashes from such burning.






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Loop The Lines By Tim Roberts

As summer approaches, bowfishing is a great way to stay in shooting shape and have a little fun at the same time. Before long, folks will begin to wonder when the carp will start spawning, and it will be time to go bowfishing again. As I was preparing my bowfishing gear, I remembered an outing from last year. Guy P. grumbled every time one of us got a pass-through on a fish because the line had to be cut and retied to the safety slide. Eventually, it occurred to us that if we looped the two lines together we could take the arrow off, and put it back on, without cutting the line.

First, tie a loop in the end of your line. I use a bowline knot because it is easy to tie, and the harder you pull on it, the tighter it gets. There are other knots that will work--nail, blood, and other fly fishing knots.

The next step is to tie a loop in a piece of line that goes through the safety slide. This loop needs to be large enough to go over each end of your fish arrow.

Now run the safety slide loop through the loop on the end of your line, and over one end of the arrow.

Slide it to the other end, and loop the loop over that end of the arrow, creating a square knot.

A square knot is easy to undo, no matter how tight it gets. Next time a pass-through shot occurs, reverse the process and easily remove the arrow and pull the line back through the fish! You will spend a lot more time shooting and a lot less time retying the line.





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Camo Tape By Ralph Rickstrew, aka R2

Sometimes, beautiful shiny bow limbs require temporary cam-ouflage options. I found an easy and affordable way to tempo-rarily cover the limbs of my bow without damaging the beauti-ful finish. There are many types of removable paint or cloth covers, but I was looking for a simple and inexpensive solution. I bought a $3.00 roll of co-adhesive athletic tape at the store where they sell medical and athletic supplies. Co-adhesive tape only sticks to itself, can be torn by hand, and stretches slightly for a snug fit. One roll was enough to cover two bows. I didn't stretch it tight around the bow—just snug, and I put a straight piece around the ends to anchor them. Then I used some camo face paint to do the "art work" spots in various colors. This way I could customize the camo to fit my particular surroundings.

The wrap lasted all through the hunting season and then some. When I removed it, there was a slight tacky feel to the limbs, but that came right off with a little rubbing alcohol. I bought the flesh colored roll so I could paint it myself, but I hear you can find it in various camouflage patterns under the name Camo Form®. Now if I spook a deer, it won't be due to the shine on my bow limbs. G'day to ya! R2






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Hot Enough For Ya?

By Guy Perkins We are coming up on the BBQ season, and food borne illness is a huge risk. It was recently discovered that sun-warmed raw onions in the potato salad are more likely to cause a bellyache than the mayo that always got the bad rap. To be safe, keep cold things cold (32-40°) and hot things hot (over 140°) if you have to hold food during the picnic. Just the other day we'd thrown some pork chops onto the grill, and the chef (my son, new to this particular cut of chops) asked how he would know when they were done. I told him to grab the meat thermometer and run 'em up to 160°. Another person at the table opted for 140°. I think they settled out at about 150°. By the book, 145° is sufficient. While over cooking a chop is about as bad as over cooking a chicken breast for moisture and taste, the "double end hoowee" is kind of a party killer as well.

Surprisingly, an accurate meat thermometer can be had for as little as $1.00. The one pictured here is a bit more pricey, but it's kind of cool because you can be doing something else and the thermometer will alert you when the meat is done. My best ad-vice is to educate yourself. Start with an Internet search for "food safety" and read up on the topic. The kicker is to then apply what you have learned. This will ensure you and your friends will have great summer cookouts.






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What A Drag By R. A. Burgin (Blacksmith)

I carry a 5’ kid’s sled in my vehicle from September through February, which is my entire bow season. After harvesting an ani-mal, I lay it onto the sled, tie it down with cord, and drag it to the truck. Here are just a few reasons why I like using a sled: it works well on dry ground or snow; it keeps the hide clean in muddy conditions; it makes it easier to load game into your vehicle when you are alone; and it keeps the blood contained during transport.






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Venison Jerky By Doug Gray

Long hours spent in the field--whether on stand, spot and stalk, or still-hunting--require a snack break. For a variety of reasons, I suggest that homemade venison jerky just might be the perfect food for such occasions. First of all, it is delicious and easy to make. Secondly, the nutritional value of venison compared to processed snack options is not a secret. Perhaps the best reason is the psychological value: consumption of game previously taken reminds you of your past success, which can be a confidence-builder on those days when the scales are tipped in favor of the quarry. During the long off-season, there's nothing that reconnects me with last year's hunt better than indulging in some venison jerky. Have a little for breakfast with some fruit and coffee, or share it with buddies on the 3D course. For me, preparing and enjoying venison jerky is the satisfying culmination of last fall's hunt.

The jerky-making process varies according to taste and tradi-tion, but all methods are simple. For starters, you can simply slice your meat into 1/4" to 1/2" strips, sprinkle on some packaged jerky seasoning from your grocer's shelf, and dry it in your oven at the lowest setting for 3 to 6 hours using open air racks. Experimentation with other seasonings, preparation and drying methods, and even mari-nades will expose you to the endless possibilities for jerky.

Each of us relate certain sensory perceptions to deer hunting: the smell of moist forest soil, the sound of leaves shuffling, the sight of a beautiful sunrise, the feel of our well-worn finger tab. Venison jerky may well reflect what deer hunting "tastes" like! One final note: Although it may prove difficult, be sure to re-tain some of this season's venison so that you can prepare and enjoy jerky next season before filling that first tag.

Editor's Note: For a great jerky recipe, check out the previous tip

from David Petersen: Elkheart's Elk or Venison Jerky.






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Binocular Attachment By Robert Bingel

I have a Crooked Horn® binocular harness, which is a really good product, but I have found it hard to use while wearing my treestand safety harness. My idea was to make a quick-connect system that holds my binoculars to my safety harness. I collect all the speed clips I come across, and if they're on web straps that's a bonus. You can buy a 1" wide web strap with a speed clip at WalMart in the camping section. Attach one side of the speed clip to each shoulder strap on the safety harness, and attach the other half of the clip to a strap on the binocu-lars. Make sure the straps are long enough that you can bring the binoculars up to your eyes and use them comfortably.

With this arrangement, I can quickly connect the binoculars to the safety harness as needed, and the safety harness does the work of holding them. A second harness is not needed, and there’s not a strap digging into my neck. Plus, there’s not a long binocular strap to wrap around and take up room in my fanny pack. The binoculars won't be held tight against your torso, so be careful moving around as they might swing.

As you can see, I have a Robinson Outdoors Spider Harness®. With this harness, I didn't have to do any sewing since every-thing just buckled in nicely. With a needle and thread you could do the same thing with just about any safety harness.






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Reflective Tape on Arrows By Jeff Reiter

I first learned of this tip from Dennis Kamstra, who offers ex-

cellent ideas in Traditional Bowhunter® Magazine’s Tips From

the Old Timer column. Thanks for all your tips over the years,

Dennis! With noted credit, this tip seems worthy of another

look with some added experiences.

I put reflective tape on my hunting arrow shafts, between the

nock and the fletching. Reflective tape can be found in the au-

tomotive section of most department stores.

This handy little trick makes finding arrows a breeze on those

afternoon hunts where everything happens just before the

end of shooting time.

When the terrain is grassy or full of crops, locating an arrow

after a pass-through shot—or a miss—is much easier with re-

flective tape on the arrow. Simply point your flashlight or

headlamp in the general direction of the arrow.

Beware: I've been darn startled, thinking there is an animal

staring at me in the dark while searching for arrows, only to

realize it was the reflective tape on my arrow. Good grief!

Finding the arrow quickly may also help in pinpointing the ani-

mal's route and locating a blood trail. Sure, it may be shrouded

in blood, but I have had great success with this trick over the

years.






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Straighten That Arrow

By Deed Cimperman On occasion, I need to straighten a wood arrow. Since necessi-ty is the mother of invention, I made an arrow straightening tool. I used a 36” piece of 1x6” pine and about 7” of a 1-inch diameter dowel. I made the body about 24” long, and I ripped the remaining 12” to make two 3” x 12” crosspieces for the ends.

With a Forstner bit, I drilled a series of 1” diameter holes, ½” deep, down the middle of the body about 2” apart. This gives you several options for placing the dowels to address the na-ture of the bend in the arrow. Cut the 1” dowel into two pieces for fulcrums or pivot points used in the straightening process. The dowels should be long enough that a person can grip them for inserting and removing from the hole. They need to fit tightly so they won't come out during the straightening pro-cess. The crosspieces are for stability and for clamping the tool to a table or to leave both hands free for straightening the ar-row.

To straighten a bent arrow, determine the middle of the bend. Place the arrow between two dowels with the opposite side of the bend against the second dowel. Ease the arrow slowly in the opposite direction of the bend. Check the arrow, and if the bend has been reduced, repeat the last step; if the arrow is straight, smile and repeat the process on other bends on the arrow, if any.

The cost is minimal, and the time spent for construction takes less than 30 minutes. Shoot straight!






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Elkheart's Favorite Bone Saw By David Petersen

If we take the advertisements seriously, we should all be pack-ing a hunting knife as big as a machete, a bone saw sufficient to cut trees down, and maybe even a hatchet--and all that steel encased in heavy leather sheaths, of course--just to field dress a little deer. Well, as Daddy used to say, "A fool and his money are soon parted." In reality, very few hunters need to carry a bone saw at all, and never a hatchet, to field dress a deer. To begin with, every eastern whitetail hunter I've talked to prefers to gut his deer and haul it out whole, either to be hung, skinned and butch-ered at home, or delivered to the butcher to let him do all the sawing. Even most elk hunters, because they gut their kills, can do the quartering efficiently with just a good hunting knife (small-bladed is better than big). Which leaves only the minori-ty I belong to who may actually need to pack a bone saw: that is, those of us who reduce our big game kills to skinned quar-ters right where the animal goes down, without ever gutting it. With this method you have to cut through several ribs, just below the spine, in order to create a window to reach into and remove the precious tenderloins that lie along the inside of the spine.

In sum then, my favorite bone saw is no saw at all. However, when I'm hunting elk, because I quarter them without gutting them, I do carry a saw to facilitate tenderloin removal. After trying a variety of hunter's bone saws over the years, I've found that nothing works better or cuts faster with less sweat equity than a regular old hacksaw. Since a full-sized hacksaw is a bit much to lug around in a hunting pack, I've settled on a mini-hacksaw. These little powerhouses are available from several manufacturers with minor variations in configuration. They are generally light and compact, shouldn't cost more than $10 or so, and come with extra blades. I used the one pictured here to cut through all four legs and the ribs on this year's cow elk and didn't even dull, much less break, the origi-nal blade. Note: For a detailed overview of Dave Petersen's preferred elk field-dressing and quartering method, see the chapter "Blood and Guts Made Easy," in his book A Man Made of Elk, availa-ble from Traditional Bowhunter Magazine.





http://www.tradbow.com/products/index.cfm


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Skinning with Broadheads By Nathan Deno

Recently, after a successful day squirrel hunting, I realized I had forgotten to sharpen the skinning knife I typically use for clean-ing birds and small game. Since we traditional bowhunters work hard to keep our broadheads razor sharp, I decided to use one of my broadheads (mounted on an arrow) to skin the squirrels. It worked amazingly well! The sharp point and clean cutting edge made working on the small animals much easier. Give it a shot the next time you field dress a small animal or bird and see what you think. Please be very cautious with sharp instruments, and don't forget to clean and re-sharpen that broadhead!






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Updated Archery Safety Brochure Now Available from Ar-chery Trade Association

Editor's Note: Although this brochure is not specifically geared to traditional archery, I found it very informative. There are also resources for becoming a certified instructor, finding ar-chery businesses in your area and setting up a community range.

NEW ULM, Minnesota – If you’re hoping to grow archery in your community, here’s an important tool that might help: Schools, agencies, communities, organizations and anyone in-terested in teaching archery can now download an updat-ed Archery Safety Brochure from the Archery Trade Associa-tion (ATA). In compiling data for this brochure, the ATA used data from a number of reporting organizations, including the Sports & Fit-ness Industry Association, U.S. Consumer Product Safety Com-mission, National Electronic Injury Surveillance System and Sportscover Injury Calculator. The ATA brochure compares archery injury rates to those of football, baseball, soccer and other sports, and concludes that archery is one of the nation’s safest recreational activities. In fact, soccer, baseball and basketball have injury rates 20 to 45 times higher than archery’s injury rate. Per 1,000 participants, archery’s injury rate ranks below golf, fishing and tennis, and slightly above badminton, bowling and table tennis. “Because it involves a bow and arrow, archery might seem un-safe at first glance, especially in areas that don’t have archery programs,” said Katie Haymes, the ATA’s education programs manager. “Our brochure is an excellent tool to show city-council members and school administrators that archery should be embraced, not feared. The data show that even

when archery participation increased from 2007 to 2014, the injury rate did not.” The Archery Safety Brochure also outlines instructor certifica-tion, a key factor that helps make archery so safe for partici-pants. Certification courses are tested, used and evaluated to maximize safety for participants and spectators in group and individual settings. Certification courses also provide instruc-tors valuable safety knowledge and hands-on experience, which make archery programs more appealing and marketable to people unfamiliar with the sport. Download the 2016 Archery Safety Brochure or contact Katie Haymes at [email protected] to request a copy.





https://www.archerytrade.org/uploads/documents/ATA_Safety_Brochure_WEB.PDF

https://www.archerytrade.org/uploads/documents/ATA_Safety_Brochure_WEB.PDF



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550 Cord Wind Monitor By Mike Miller

The second cardinal rule of successful hunting--after hunting where the animals are--is hunting the wind. While sitting in my elk blind at 8,500 feet last year, I felt like I was constantly picking up my dust-type wind indicator. Alt-hough I was well hidden behind a screen of spruce trees, the movement was bothersome. Thinking about what was in my pack, I remembered the various lengths of military “paracord” or “550 cord” I had. I took a foot long piece of cord, removed the core strands, combed them out and tied them onto a cou-ple of low hanging branches. This provided a sensitive and con-stant wind monitor that only required the movement of my eyeballs. Perfect!

There are 450 and 650 versions of the cord out there as well;

and the numbers represent the load limit. Each strand of 550

cord has seven strands inside, and each of those strands yields

two smaller strands. The smaller strands are what we need.

Simply unravel them and attempt to fluff or comb them out.

One foot of paracord will yield fourteen wind monitors. You

can also tie the strands onto your bow tip, but the micro

strands are so small that they tear apart when removing burrs

and don't last very long. Don't forget to take the strands out of

the branches when you have finished hunting for the day.

For price and convenience, 550 cord wind monitors are hard to

beat. Get out there and hunt the wind!






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Hit the Target Dummy

By Walter K. Young

Recently, I was digging through my closet looking for a target that would force me to concentrate on reaching my anchor point and achieving a steady release. I found an old dog retrieval dummy. As it turns out, it really helped me to focus, and it is also a very durable and fun target to shoot . As you can see from the picture, it takes quite a beating. Hope you enjoy, and God bless!






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Shooting Practice

By Carl P. Brickey

Do you ever find yourself looking for exciting ways to practice shooting? If you’re anything like me, you get bored shooting at the same old bag target. Also, if you have limited space to shoot, a 10-yard shot at the same angle becomes mundane fairly quickly. But don’t fret, you can spice up your practice session with these little gems.

Plastic practice golf balls (miniature wiffle balls) make wonder-ful roving targets for tight spaces, and a bag of nine can be bought at the big box stores for under $2. I toss a handful into my yard and shoot them with rubber blunt tipped arrows with flu flu fletching. The little holes in the balls make great focal points, and the balls are about the size of a squirrel's head. If you hit them right, you can make them hook or slice!






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Cross Dominance

Click here for an article that explains how to find your domi-

nant eye. Bruce J. wrote: T.J., I am somewhat left eye dominant, but I shoot my bows right handed. I met a gunsmith last week who suggested that I close my left eye when shooting the bow. I did, and aside from the issue with depth perception that closing an eye causes, it seems to have tightened up my groups (assuming all else is equal). I was wondering what Fred would say about this, and potentially Don Thomas, as he also has provided some great shooting tips.

Replies G. Fred Asbell: The right hand/left eye dominance thing is a very common situation, although most who run into it are not pleased about it, and many decide to just ignore it. I always advise matching the hand and the eye; switch to shooting left-handed if you discover a dominant left eye, and vice-versa with the right. I don't think I have ever had a shooting class in 30 years that someone (or more) hasn't had the situation. Alt-hough I'm sure I haven't had the opportunity to follow up on all of them, I'm not aware of a single person who has not said it was the best thing they ever did. Once they got past the clumsiness of handling the arrow with the odd hand, every-thing seemed exactly right. Suddenly, all they had heard about instinctive shooting fell into place. No one wants to go looking for a different bow, and you need to try to find a cheap, lightweight one. Right now, before you even get started looking for a bow, begin pulling your bow with the other hand—right now. Work at getting it to full

draw. I wouldn't even put an arrow on the string. Think about who you know that shoots left-handed, and ask them about something lightweight. Do lots of shooting up very close—nothing over 10-15 yards—until it begins to feel right (correct). Good luck, and keep me posted on your progress. Don Thomas: Cross-eye dominance can be a frustrating prob-lem, and it’s more common than most people realize. In the wing-shooting world, with which I am quite familiar, the con-ventional advice is to follow the eye and not the hand—in oth-er words, a right-handed, left eye dominant shooter should simply learn to shoot left handed. That’s easier with a shotgun than a bow, but it can still be done and I know a number of people who have done so successfully. I would advise against closing one eye if you shoot instinctively (no reference point on the arrow), because that will cost you your depth perception and require you to master some sort of point of aim shooting method. The young son of a friend who grew up bowhunting with his father and me had this problem (left eye, right hand domi-nant), which he solved by shooting right-handed but turning his head at full draw so that his anchor was below his left eye rather than his right. He has grown up to become an excellent shot and highly successful bowhunter. Good luck with whatever solution works best for you.





http://www.tradbow.com/public/197.cfm


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Follow up on Cross Dominance Here are just a few of the responses I received from last week’s tip, Cross-Dominance. Theodore S. wrote: Like many older guys, I have become both nearsighted and farsighted; and as a contact wearer, my solu-tion to my cross-dominance problem is known as monovision, or wearing a different prescription for each eye. Contrary to conventional wisdom which counsels wearing the stronger pre-scription in the dominant eye, I wear my distance vision lens in my weaker right eye. Over time, and contrary to my ophthal-mologist’s prediction, my eye dominance has somewhat changed – not completely mind you, but enough that I can keep both eyes open through the draw, and closing the left eye just before releasing. I close the left eye at the last second to prevent a sudden involuntary switch back to left eye domi-nance. Placing the stronger lens in my weaker right eye allows me to use the sight-perspective of my right eye to pick a spot while aiming instinctively. Habit has changed my eye domi-nance enough that my sight-perspective is not altered when I close my left eye just before releasing. Generally speaking, I agree with Fred and Don that if cross-dominance is discovered early in life, the best solution is to learn to shoot either left- or right-handed to follow the domi-nant eye. However, I have never been very coordinated, and knew in my late 20s that I would not be able to switch to shooting left-handed to follow my dominant eye. By the time I took up archery in my 50s, I believed (correctly, I think, based on the difficulties encountered as an older guy learning other new things, such as playing a five-string banjo), that it was too late for me to successfully learn to shoot left-handed. I don’t claim to be the best instinctive bow shooter and leave that distinction to pros like Fred and Don. I can say though, that within the range limits I set for myself (20 yards maxi-mum), I shoot instinctively reasonably well and miss no more than most. So if you’re a contact wearer, consider giving mono-vision a try. Brian S. wrote: Great discussion on something that challenges many people. However, I would like to offer the opposite obser-vation from those you listed. In my experience working with archers of various ages and ability, I’ve found it is easier for most (not all) archers to learn to aim with the non-dominant eye rather than try to retrain the body. Use of an eye patch (a

pirate patch for the kids or those still young at heart) or a small piece of masking tape over the dominant eye on a pair of glasses will quickly train the archer to use the non-dominant eye as a match to the handedness. The brain is an amazing thing and can adapt very quickly. This also prevents an archer from becoming frustrated trying to force a non-dominant hand action, as well as not needing to buy new equipment since most people start off with a bow to match the dominant hand. Nine times out of ten, when archers try both methods in our classes (switching eyes or switching bows), they are more com-fortable and shoot better when the bow matches the domi-nant hand and they are taught to aim with the non-dominant eye. Keep up the great work. Michael B. wrote: Cross-dominance is a subject dear to my heart. I'm right handed and grew up with Howard Hill as my hero; and if Howard advocated a very heavy bow, then that's what I wanted. The result was terrible form, target panic and a flying release. I tried everything, but still I couldn't fix decades of lousy form. I tried a left-handed bow with my instructor watching, and his remark was, "I wouldn't change a thing. Kisik Lee [one of the world’s top and most respected archery coach-es] would be happy with that form." I've shot cross-dominant now for five years, and have taken deer every year with my recurve. While doing research on the subject, I've found others who shot cross-dominant: Fred Bear (due to a missing fingertip), Glenn St. Charles, and (surprise, surprise) Howard Hill! I'll agree that cross-dominance is not the preferred way, but it can be a great last resort to correct bad shooting form.





http://www.tradbow.com/public/Cross-Dominance.cfm


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Organize Your Back Issues By Robin Conrads

Do you have a dozen (or more) Traditional Bowhunter® maga-zines scattered around the house? You aren't alone. Many of our readers save their magazines and go back through them from time to time. The stories are timeless, and a hunting arti-cle that didn't mean much two years ago takes on new mean-ing when you are planning a trip to Alaska or a DIY hunt in Col-orado. Back issues are a great way to supplement your reading mate-rial between new issues. If you don't pace yourself, there can be a lot of time between magazines. We have over 125 back issues available, all the way back to Winter 1989. Some issues are sold out (available for Premium online members), but we have brand new copies of the magazines that are still available in print. We are running a fantastic special on back issues right now. The price is $2.00 per magazine, plus shipping. The mini-mum order is 10 back issues, but you can order up to 30 back issues and pay the same shipping cost. See the Back Issue Or-der Form for rates and available issues. Are you trying to figure out which issues you have and which issues you need? Here is a list of every issue. Sold out issues are not available in print, but this list is very helpful when cata-loging your collection. View the Issue List pdf. Are you looking for a specific article? We have an index file that lists every article and the issue in which it was published. The file is an Excel® spreadsheet and you can sort and search to your heart's content, if you're into that. However, if you are not "into that," we're always happy to look up an article for you. Immediately download the TBM Index. (This works best on a computer, or a tablet that can read an Excel spreadsheet. It is a quick file transfer, so look for it in your Downloads folder before hitting the link again.) Traditional Bowhunter® binders offer a convenient storage solution. Each binder includes a dozen plastic inserts, enough for two years worth of magazines. Open a magazine to some-where near the middle, and slide half of the pages through the slot. The insert snugs up against the back of the magazine and holds it in the binder, but you can still turn the pages. The binders look very nice on a bookshelf, and they help keep the

magazines in good condition. When the family asks what they can give you as a gift, binders are something to think about. I hope these ideas and tools will help you get your collection organized. If you need help downloading the files, finding an article, or ordering back issues or binders, please call our toll-free number, 1-888-828-4882.





http://www.tradbow.com/public/backissues.cfm

http://www.tradbow.com/public/backissues.cfm

http://tbmdownloads.s3.amazonaws.com/IssueList.pdf

http://tbmdownloads.s3.amazonaws.com/TBM_Index.xls.zip

http://www.tradbow.com/products/index.cfm


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Arrow Grip Adjustments

By Rob Bingel

Arrow shafts can vary in diameter, but the grippers on most quivers are the same. I have found that some of my quivers do not hold the shafts tightly enough, and the arrows slip out or rattle around. I'd rather not risk damage to any of the grippers by screwing, pop-riveting or dismantling them, so this is the solution I use. Liquid rubber, also known as Liquid Tape, can be found in the electrical supplies at most home improvement stores.

Use a toothpick to apply a small amount of Liquid Tape to the inside of the gripper holes. It will narrow the diameter of the hole without any visible alteration or possible damage. You might have to apply more than one coat to get the desired opening size. Mistakes can be cleaned up with a wet paper towel while the rubber is still wet. The liquid rubber cures ra-ther quickly, so this modification is fast and easy. Be sure the curing is complete before inserting arrows into the quiver.






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Treestand Practice By Matt Steed

I have had a fear of heights since I was a child. Not necessarily the height of a building or mountain, but basically ladders and unstable contraptions. I have found that practicing from an elevated stand in my backyard really helps. When deer season starts, you don't have to get used to the height since you’ve been climbing and shooting out of your stand all summer. If at all possible, I climb into my stand once a week and shoot five arrows from different angles and distances.

While deer hunting you might ask yourself, “What would I do if a deer came from this side or that side?” With your stand in the backyard, you can practice from any position imaginable. Here’s a photo of a 20-yard group from my ladder stand using a 64-inch Pronghorn longbow. I placed the stand in a giant pe-can tree with plenty of cover, just like a real hunting setup.

My accuracy has improved greatly. Practicing from a treestand is also a good time to test different clothing for string clear-ance. When shooting from an elevated position, we have a tendency to short draw without anchoring properly. You might even experience erratic arrow flight due to the short drawing. Some guys advocate bending at the waist, while others recom-mend bending the knees. My thoughts are that you should practice from your stand to find out what works best for you. ALWAYS wear a safety harness and practice other safety measures when using an elevated stand.






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Glassy Eyed by T. J. Conrads

From The Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook If you want to take high quality, life-like images of your trophy in the field, you ought to keep a set of taxidermy glass eyes in your hunting pack. When you get ready to shoot your photos, simply slip the glass eyes over the animal's eyes and under the eyelids, and adjust the eyelids to look normal. This simple trick improves the quality of the image immensely. You know all those photos you see with fogged over eyes on game? How about the shiny eye when a flash is used? The flash reflecting off the back of the eyeball causes this. Using glass eyes will prevent these photographic blunders. I bought mine from Van Dyke's Taxidermy and carry them in a film container in my hunting pack. The antelope glass eyes work the best for deer photos.





http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/Antelope-Eyes-C350.aspx


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Harvest Photo Tips

I get a lot of questions about how to submit a photo for the harvest section. Send a photograph to:

Traditional Bowhunter Magazine Attn: T. J. Conrads

P O Box 519 Eagle, ID 83616

If you want the photo returned, include a self-addressed, stamped envelope. It could be 6-12 months before you see your pho-

to in the magazine, depending on how many are ahead of you. Emailed photos should be sent to [email protected].

I'd like to outline a few other tips for good harvest photos. These apply to the magazine, our online galleries, or even the bulle-tin board at the sporting goods store. Keep in mind that not everyone who sees your photo is a hunter. Images of hunters straddling their quarry, animals hanging from a hook, or anything with motorized vehicles will not be accepted. Take a few

minutes to follow a couple of guidelines and everyone will be happier with the results.

Position the animal so the sun, if available, shines onto the animal's face.

Tuck the legs under and sit the animal upright as much as possible.

Trim away grass or brush to get a clear view of the animal and remove all blood, guts, arrows, and anything man-made (tents, motorized vehicles, etc.) from the picture.

Push the animal's tongue back into its mouth or cut it off.

If the hunter is wearing a brimmed hat, push it back and up so that his/her face shows in the picture.

Get in close and fill the frame with the picture. Shoot both vertical and horizontal shots and shoot lots of photos.

Click this link to upload harvest photos to our web site.






http://www.tradbow.com/public/department25.cfm

http://www.tradbow.com/public/department25.cfm


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Kneeling by Blake Fischer

Surprisingly when we practice shooting, we usually stand upright, and rarely do we shoot kneeling. When hunting from the ground, we find ourselves trying to get lower to escape detection. Since sitting isn't a viable option for shooting, we often end up having to shoot from a kneeling position. Did you know that there is a right way and a wrong way to kneel? When kneeling to shoot, make sure that your leading leg--the leg closest to the target--is the knee that you put down.

The right way to kneel. Having your leading leg up can cause interference with your bowstring or lower limb. Also, when swinging with your target, you may encounter interference with your front leg if it is up. Why not put both knees down? If you need to stand up in a hurry, then you have one less leg to move. Hopefully knowing a better way to kneel may help you someday.

The wrong way to kneel.






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Bike Shorts by Bob Lindberg

I've been wearing "bike shorts" under my hunting clothes for many years now. These shorts are the kind you might wear to pad those "comfort" zones from the ungodly awful seats they are putting on bicycles these days. They have padding built up in the crotch and seat area, which also adds just a little bit of insulation to those areas for cold days. Instead of carrying (another thing to forget) a pad to sit on, you have a built in one. Yeah I know, they feel like you're wearing a diaper, but they keep your tush warm and comfy.






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'Tis the Season(ing) By Robert Bingel

I have a set of very old cast iron skillets. A well-seasoned cast iron skillet is as good as any expensive nonstick frying pan. At camp, as well as at home, this skillet can quickly become a family favorite. With proper care, it will last for several genera-tions. The first rule of cast iron is NEVER clean it with dish soap. That will remove the seasoned patina that keeps food from sticking. If food residue sticks to the bottom of the pan, add a bit of wa-ter, bring it to a slow boil and wipe the pan clean with a soft scouring pad or paper towel. Never put it into a dishwasher! Before storing, dry the pan completely and wipe the inside surface with a thin film of vegetable oil. That will help prevent rust and maintain the seasoned patina so the pan is ready for the next use. Should you come across a mistreated skillet or Dutch oven, or if your cast iron cookware starts to look gray and dull instead of shiny black, it can be re-seasoned and brought back to life. The best method I’ve found to do this is to run your oven’s self-cleaning cycle with the pan inside. When the pan has cooled, it will have a coating of white ash. Wash off the ash, coat the entire pan inside and out with a thin layer of vegetable oil, and bake it in the oven at 350° for one hour. You could also season the pan in your barbecue to avoid a lot of smoke in your kitch-en. The patina will then improve with each use, and it may take several uses to get a skillet back to its finest state. Like many things that we traditionalists love, a cast iron skillet or Dutch oven just gets better with age. Editor’s Note: Contrary to popular belief, cast iron CAN be used on a flat glass-top electric stove. Just be careful not to drop it or slide the pan across the glass surface.






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Rotating Fletching Table By Leon Leeper

Determined to "mass produce" arrows for my own use, I creat-ed a rotating tabletop fletching station from a 14" lazy Susan,* which I picked up at a local thrift store for less than five bucks. It allows me to work on three arrows at a time, and the center is a safe area to set fletching, glue, toothpicks, alcohol and cotton swabs while moving from one arrow to the next. The radius formed by the ends of the shafts while in fletching jigs can be made smaller by mounting the jigs on upward slanting blocks. To make the blocks, cut three pieces of scrap pine 2 3/8” x 6” with a 22.5 degree angle. Pre-drill two holes, and then mount the blocks with one 3" and one 2" drywall screws. The radius could be made even smaller by increasing the degree of cut on the block. The higher the angle, the more the arrow tip will be perpendicular to the table. When attach-ing the fletching jig to the block, hand tighten one 1 1/4" dry-wall screw in the top hole or only one end of the jig. Hand tightening and using only one screw allows for turning the jig to easily insert and remove shafts, as well as focusing light.

The whole unit weighs around eleven pounds, and is compact enough to take on longer trips. It is one of my most prized pieces of gear. *A tray attached to a rotating base, generally used for condi-ments or food distribution. You can find them in the kitchen section of many department stores.






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Feathers: Nature's Perfect Guidance System By Larry Fischer

Man has spent his entire existence trying to improve on everything he comes into contact with, including archery and bowhunting. Now don't take this meddling as all negative. The bows we shoot today have benefited from advancements in fi-berglass and carbon. Our arrows come in composites, aluminum and wood. The wood shaft of today may not look much differ-ent than those of yesteryear, but manufacturing techniques have vastly improved the quality and quantity. However, one item that we have not been able to improve is the feathered fletch. The fletching of today comes mainly from turkeys, though some use goose. Nothing man-made has the resilience, beauty, and quietness of the feather. In order to main-tain your feathers in their original shape so they stabilize your broadheads as quickly as possible after release, you must not allow them to become matted or damaged. If that happens when traveling, after a severe wetting or by neglect, all you have to do is quickly steam them back into position, allow them to dry, and "Presto!" they are as good as new. If badly bloodstained, wash the feathers as soon as possible in cold water, allow them to dry, and then steam them back into position. Remember, the feather is one of nature's most perfectly designed products.






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Bow Quiver Modification By Chad Graham

As traditional bowhunters, most of us like to have a blunt- or Judo-tipped arrow with us when we go afield. Piggy Backers have a clip on both sides, so two of them can be used to attach an extra arrow to one of the arrows in the quiver. However, I have never liked having something clipped onto a hunting ar-row. If I need that arrow, I would have to deal with the extra arrow while trying to put the Piggy Backers somewhere with-out dropping them. The method I have been using is simple and convenient, with a combination of two great products: a Great Northern adjustable quiver and Selway Piggy Backers. By slightly altering the Piggy Backers, I have a full quiver of broadhead arrows and a judo point arrow outside of my quiv-er. For this project you will need a razor knife, a cordless drill or drill press with a very small drill bit, the quiver and two pig-gy backers.

First, drill a small relief hole in the center of each Piggy Backer. Next, trim off one side of the clips near the holes. Make sure the Piggy Backers won’t interfere with the arrows clipped into the quiver. Now take the quiver apart and slide the Piggy Back-ers onto the wire of the quiver. Slide one up to the hood of the quiver and one down by the arrow gripper. Then put the quiv-er back together, attach it to the bow, and load your arrows.





http://www.gnqco.com/

http://selwayarcheryproducts.com/


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Arizona EZ Fletch Tips by by Scott Lewis (Handirifle)

I have tried several other fletching jigs, but for me, the Arizona EZ

Fletch (AZ) is king. Here are a few tips that will make it even easier to

use. The first picture shows everything you'll need.

I got very frustrated when the AZ would shift at a critical moment. I

searched my workshop for something to hold it steady, and came up

with a ready-made piece of electrical fitting that works perfectly. I

made a stand to hold the AZ while I insert the arrow and the fletch-

ing to be installed. The base is a piece of 3/4" plywood with a 1" di-

ameter hole drilled near the center. Next, I took an electrical conduit

reducer (Quick Set® Liquid Tight Connector) that is designed to con-

nect 1/2" conduit to an electrical box. The 1" hole in the plywood

allows me to screw the threaded end of the electrical fitting into the

wood by hand with enough resistance to hold it tightly. I left the nut

on, but it serves no purpose.

Savvy electricians will notice that I used a hacksaw to cut a 1/8" wide

notch into the sides of the electrical fitting. This allows the wire han-

dle on the AZ to slide into the slots, which keeps the AZ from turning

when twisting the bottom spring-loaded section up and down. Fol-

low the directions for fletching the arrow, and leave the shaft upright

until the glue dries. I used to lean arrows against a wall, but upright

works much better.

The next tip concerns storing the AZ while not in use. I find it almost

too easy to lose the cap that slides over the arrow. To keep from

losing it attach a long piece of twist tie wire to the wire handle at the

bottom of the AZ, and slide it through the center hole of the cap.

Place the cap on top of the fletching arms and wrap the twist wire

over the cap and back around itself below the bottom of the cap. I've

never lost one yet with this method.

The following tip explains replacing a single feather. If I need to re-

place two feathers, I usually just replace all three. Vanes are not as

difficult, so this is mainly for feathers. Place the damaged arrow into

the AZ and turn it to align the two good feathers with the arms.

Then, carefully feed the feathers--bottom first--into the arms to align

the arrow. The tough part is actually getting the feather into the arm

as mine are designed for right helical. Straight fletching may not be

as difficult. To make it a lot easier, insert a 1/4 wide flathead screw-

driver or a similar blunt blade, into the slot of the arm about 1/2"

from its top. Then, twist the screwdriver about 90 degrees which will

open the slot enough to slip the arm over one of the good feathers.

Smooth the base and repeat the process with the other good feath-

er. Align the replacement feather in the remaining third slot at the

same height as the other two, apply glue to the base, and then fletch

as usual.






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Smooth Leading Edge

by T. J. Conrads

If you shoot a selfbow without an arrow shelf, you may have

experienced feathers cutting your finger. Worse, you may have

run a quill into your finger. This happens when the leading

edge of the lower hen feather is slightly lifted off the arrow or

has a sharp edge to it.

Even with careful trimming of the leading edge of your feath-

er, wear and tear on the feathers from regular shooting can

eventually create rough or cracked edges. You can reduce this

by taking a round piece of metal and rolling it back against the

feather. This will compress and smooth out the leading edge of

the feather. Any round metal object, such a nail, screwdriver,

et cetera will work.

John Strunk of Tillamook, Oregon, always used an arrow with a

field point on it. In between targets while attending the North

American Longbow Safari, he would constantly roll the side of

the field point along the leading edge of the feathers of his

target arrow.






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Shadow-Tip Navigation By Robin Conrads

While surfing the web for interesting tidbits of information that you might find valuable, I came across a website called www.wilderness-survival.net. They kindly allowed me to reprint this easy navigation tip. The earth's relationship to the sun can help you to determine direction on earth. The sun always rises in the east and sets in the west, but not exactly due east or due west. There is also some seasonal variation. In the northern hemisphere, the sun will be due south when at its highest point in the sky, or when an object casts no appreciable shadow. In the southern hemi-sphere, this same noonday sun will mark due north. In the northern hemisphere, shadows will move clockwise. Shadows will move counterclockwise in the southern hemisphere. With practice, you can use shadows to determine both direction and time of day. In the shadow-tip method, find a straight stick 1 meter long, and a level spot free of brush on which the stick will cast a definite shadow. This method is simple and accurate and con-sists of these steps:

Place the stick or branch into the ground at a level spot where it will cast a distinctive shadow. Mark the shadow's tip with a stone, twig, or other means. This first shadow mark is always west--everywhere on earth.

Wait 10 to 15 minutes until the shadow tip moves a few centimeters. Mark the shadow tip's new position in the same way as the first. Draw a straight line through the two marks to obtain an ap-proximate east-west line. Stand with the first mark (west) to your left and the second mark to your right--you are now facing north. This fact is true everywhere on earth.

A variation of this tip comes to us from David. He said, I had an old bowhunter tell me how to find the same E-W line at night. Most books tell you to find the North Star, but you can't always see it in the deep woods. The same stick you used to cast a shadow can help at night. Take the stick, set down with your back against a tree and put the stick into the ground. Now put your head against that tree to hold it still, and align the tip of that stick to any star. After 10 minutes see where that star is. The direction it moved will be east. Since the earth rotates east

to west, the line will be E-W. Bill wrote to tell us: If you point the hour hand of your watch in the direction of the sun, opposite the shadow described, 6 points north, 3 west, 12 south and 9 east. It is not necessary to wait for a second point to create an east-west line. (Applicable to northern hemisphere and standard time; digital watches need not apply!)





http://www.wilderness-survival.net/


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Easy Field Clean Up

By Dan Forystek After field dressing game, whether a deer or a couple of squir-rels, it’s nice to have some soap and water handy for washing. I usually hang a large jug filled with water over the tailgate of my truck for washing up, but digging through a bag or pack with bloody or dirty hands to find the soap is messy. To keep from soiling my pack and its contents while rummag-ing for soap, I started collecting the slivers of scent-free Ivory soap that usually wind up in the trash. When I collect a handful of slivers, I drop them into an old nylon stocking which I tie to the water container. Now, when I need to clean up, I have scent-free soap at my fingertips. A few drops of water on the stocking will lather nicely, and the nylon is mildly abrasive enough to remove blood and grime. After washing up, rinse it and let it hang there to drain for the next time you need it. I keep a “sliver stocking” hanging in the splash well in the back of my boat, which is handy for cleaning up after a day of han-dling fish and bait. I also have one hanging from the faucet in my yard to clean up after washing the birdbath or working in the vegetable garden. The stockings are always there when needed the next time.






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Feather Arrow Holder By Chad Orde

I am always struggling to keep my arrow on the shelf while hunting, so I came up with this nice looking arrow holder. Cut a piece of feather about 1"-1.75" long and glue it upright to your arrow shelf as shown in the photos. You may need to trim the shelf material slightly to make room for the feather. Attach the feather with double-sided tape or any kind of removable glue that you would use for your arrow shelf material. Place the feather on the shelf so it lies down when your arrow pass-es by, just like you would a feather rest. Use a right wing feath-er for a right-handed bow or a left wing feather for a left-handed bow, so the feather curves in toward the riser. You can waterproof the feather rest the same way you would treat your arrow fletching. One feather arrow holder should last the whole season. Editor’s Note: Chad is the owner of Drifter Traditional Ar-

chery in Pentwater, Michigan. He carries an interesting assort-ment of leather goods, books, field guides and much more. Thanks for the tip, Chad!





http://www.driftertraditionalarchery.com/

http://www.driftertraditionalarchery.com/


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Love Family Dressing By Jeff Love

Well, here we are at Thanksgiving. I am sure that everyone is busy getting everything ready for the big feast. Here is a sim-ple dressing recipe that is sure to please even the most finicky member of the family. Ingredients:

6 cups cubed, dried bread. Dry it for 30 to 60 minutes in a 220° oven until it reaches the desired texture.

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 cup celery, chopped (I like to use the inside stalks and leaves.)

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 to 2 teaspoons poultry seasoning (Add more for a stronger flavor.)

1/2 teaspoon sage (Add more for a stronger flavor.) Salt and pepper In a large skillet on medium heat add the margarine, poultry seasoning, sage, salt, pepper, onion, and celery. Cook until the onion and celery are tender. Put the bread cubes into a large bowl. Pour the margarine, onion, and celery mixture over the breadcrumbs and mix well. Add chicken or turkey broth, a little at a time, until the desired moistness is reached.

At this point you can stuff the turkey with the dressing; and when the bird is done the stuffing will be, too. However, if you are planning to deep-fry the turkey or if you are not having turkey for dinner, you can cook the stuffing in a 350° oven for 20 to 30 minutes. Stir occasionally to ensure even heating. Have a safe and wonderful holiday and enjoy your Thanksgiv-ing dinner.






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Chalking Your File By T. J. Conrads

You can extend the life of your broadhead file by chalking it when new and repeating this process after every cleaning. I learned this little trick from my 9th grade Metal Shop teacher, Mr. Grubb. When you file a broadhead, or any metal object, small shav-

ings build up in the ruts or valleys of the file. This is called pin-ning, which can get so bad that it renders your file useless. The

use of chalk helps reduce pinning and allows for easier clean-ing of your file and a longer life. Any type of chalk will work. Apply an even layer to both sides of your new file and make sure you clean your file often with a metal brush to remove the metal shavings that build up on top of the chalk. I like the small, fine, toothbrush-sized ones. Remember to re-chalk your file and you're ready to go.






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Flagging By Rob Patuto

Flagging tape could be one of the most important tools in your pack. You can mark the spot where you dropped your pack for a stalk, where you stood when you shot, where the animal was standing when it was hit, and the location of blood. If you’ve ever followed a faint blood trail and struggled to pick up the next clue, you know how effective it can be to look back and see three or four ribbons marking the known direction of trav-el. However, do you really need a full roll? It’s bulky in my pack, and it can be considered heavy when backpack hunting in the backcountry. So here is what I do to convert a full roll as shown below into the smaller rolls shown in the second photo.

I find that ¼” dowels work best. Cut about 4 inches of dowel and chuck it up into a drill. Start the flagging on the dowel and keep tension while transferring the tape from the larger roll. It takes a steady hand at first to not end up with a mess. I found that smaller rolls 1 ¼” to 1 ½” in diameter will hold about 30

feet of ribbon. Once you have transferred the desired amount of flagging tape, put some adhesive tape on it to prevent un-

raveling. Take side cutters and trim the longer end of the dow-el. I find that just a couple small rolls in my pack will do the

trick, and their size seems more manageable when I’m focused on a trail.

I would like to remind my fellow outdoorsmen and women to

remove all flagging once you are finished. It might be a pain coming out with the last load, and having to wander a bit to retrieve your flagging, but we all appreciate a clean forest.






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Easy Bow Workstation By Tim Roberts

One of the challenges of bowstring maintenance has always been finding a convenient place to do the work. Most of the time, I sit on a stool with the back of the bow on my legs. This works fine until you need an extra hand to hold something. When that extra hand is available, the job gets done; but the process resembles something close to two monkeys, a foot-ball, and some pent-up effort! I ran into this situation at a friend’s place while serving a string and tying in some silencers. Standing there I got to thinking, this

would be easier if we had a couple of 1/2" or 3/4" dowels sticking out of the workbench to hold the bow. When I got back to my place I tested the idea. The top of my arrow build-ing bench is thick enough that I was able to drill two 3/4" holes and place a dowel in each hole. I protected the bow with some rubber pieces on the back and belly, and held it onto the dow-els with a couple of squeeze clamps. I was able to create an easy workstation to work on bowstrings. For those who don't have a table to bore holes into, a 2x4 will make a great substi-tute. The 2x4 can then be clamped onto any table or work-bench.





Traditional Archery Academy 57


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Archery specializes in Traditional Bows

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Traditional Archery Academy 58


Traditional Archery Academy

The Traditional Archery Academy was born out of a

need for high quality resources for those interested in

learning more about Traditional Bow building, arrow

building, archery leather work and Instinctive shooting.

Our goal is to provide courses and guides to help the

traditional archery community learn and have fun.

Crows Head Archery

My wife Marlana and I started Crow’s Head Archery in

2006 to offer unique bows and well known brands to

the world, but my passion for Traditional Archery

started years before. When I watched the Lord of the

Rings: Fellowship of the Ring in 2002 I was completely

obsessed over the bows and arrows that were used in

the film. All I wanted to do was make and shoot one of

those bows. But I needed to learn the basics of building

a bow first. A so the adventure began....

My Father Perry Miller and I took a simple board bow

building class and this lit a fire in me to continue

building and designing my own bows. The learning

process took time, blood, sweat and tears. I worked out

of my one car garage on a make shift work bench until I

was able to design and build my first bow - the Heritage

Longbow. This bow continues to be one of our best

selling bows.

During this time, Marlana and I had 3beautiful children,

moved into a new house and built a life together.

While I was working on building and designing bows,

Crow’s Head Archery was also selling some of the best

brands we could find to go along with our own product

mix. As our business grew I asked my Father to join me

in building bows and he agreed to become part of the

team.

Eventually we were able to build a full range of

Traditional Bows and started building bows for dealers.

One problem....We never gave the bows a proper Brand

Name and in 2015 that would all change.

In the Fall of 2015 Marlana and I decided to give the

bows a name that incorporated the names of our 3

children and GRAYVN TRADITIONAL BOWS was born.

OUR TEAM

Marlana Miller—Owner

Ned Miller—Owner

Perry “Papa” Miller—Craftsman

OUR ACCOMPLISHMENTS

Crow’s Head Archery has built original designs for use

on TV, Film and Web Series. Projects for which we have

built bows and arrows:

AMC: Turn

The Hunt for Gollum

Born of Hope

Rangers Web Series

Once Upon a Time

The Ren Series

Thank you for being part of the Traditional Archery

Academy

Ned Miller

814-515-9501

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http://www.crowshead.com/crowsheadblog/grayvn-traditional-bows/

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warning - amazon s3tips+for+traditional+bowhunters+… · the nock. in order to correct arrow...

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