wall paddler -- building plans
TRANSCRIPT
1
Wall Paddler -- Building Plans
The Wall Paddler is an ergometer and core strength builder designed for people who want the
option of using their own seat, even people who use wheelchairs will find the Wall Paddler an
excellent way to exercise. People learning how to kayak will find the Wall Paddler a fun way to
train without having to get into the water. The Wall Paddler is also an excellent alternative for
training during bad weather to maintain the core and upper body strength needed for successful
kayaking. The Wall Paddler provides the exerciser with paddle strokes that mimic the kayak
experience. The Wall Paddler is fully adjustable to accommodate a wide range of exercisers
depending on the paddler’s strength and individual preferences such as sitting for kayak training
and standing for paddleboard training. The wall-mounted exerciser requires a minimal amount
of space when not in use.
Visit our website at: KayakBalanceTrainer.com
Read the material before building this project.
Failure to do so can result in serious injury.
SAVE THIS MANUAL. Copyright 2014 by Korpi and Sons. All rights reserved. No portion of this manual or any
artwork contained herein may be reproduced in any shape or form without the express written
consent of Korpi and Sons. Diagrams within this manual may not be drawn proportionally. Due
to continuing improvements, actual product may differ from the project described herein. Tools
and materials required for assembly are not included.
2
Tool List
Item
#
Qty Description Part Number / Similar
items may be used
Vendor(s)
1 1 Cordless Drill Ryobi P828 Home Depot
2 1 Drill & Screw Bit Set DeWalt DW2521 Home Depot
3 1 Countersink Bit #839 Ptreeusa.com
4 1 1-1/8” Spade Bit DeWalt DW1583 Home Depot
5 1 Precision 18” ruler Empire 27318 Home Depot
6 1 Square Empire E250 Home Depot
7 1 Tape Measure Lufkin or Stanley Sears, Home Depot
8 1 Trim & Edge Router Ryobi P600 Home Depot
9 1 Router Roundover Bits Ryobi A25RS31 Home Depot
10 1 Wood Saw - Mitering Dewalt 10” miter saw Lowes, Sears, Home Depot etc.
11 1 Metal Hack Saw Huskey 122100R Home Depot
12 1 3/8” Round File Nicholson 21854L Home Depot
13 1 Awl Huskey 74561 Home Depot
14 1 Hex Key Set DeWalt DW2068 Amazon.com
15 1 Full Face Bar Clamp Irwin 2021412N Use-ENCO.com, Home Depot
Materials List
Item
#
Qty Description Part Number / Similar
items may be used
Vendor(s)
16 5’ 5/4x6” Cedar Lumber MR0510508 Home Depot
17 12’ 2”x4” Cedar Lumber 226587 Home Depot
18 72” 1-1/8” Hardwood Dowel 6423U Home Depot
19 5’ 3/16” Shock Cord SC-B187 West Marine
20 20’ 5/16” Double Braided Rope NE Ropes, Sta Set - 243709 West Marine
21 4’ 1/8” Rope Brake 550 Paracord ParacordPlace.com
22 1 Cord Lock P082 cord-lock.com
23 2 Nylon Eyelet 409690 West Marine
24 3 Rope Pulley Block Harken 2650 IntensitySails.com, West Marine
25 1 Upright Block Harken 243 West Marine
26 2 ½” Axle Bearing Spyraflo PB2-500-N MSCdirect.com, Amazon.com
27 2 ½” Collar Clamp Climax Metal G1SC-050-B Global Industrial
28 2 Clutch Roller Set #0416 KayakBalanceTrainer.com
29 15” ½” Axle R212-TGP MetalsDepot.com
30 6” ¾” OD Alum Tube T3R34125 MetalsDepot.com
31 1 10# Flywheel Rigid PU015901SJ JacksSmallEngines.com
32 2 Flywheel Set Screws 3/8-16x1/2”, SKU 4013 ASMC.net
3
Fasteners and Miscellaneous List
Item
#
Qty Description Part Number / Similar
items may be used
Vendor(s)
33 1 Safety Goggles 91252-80025T Home Depot
34 1 Dust Mask 88-WFPM5 Home Depot
35 4 5/16”x3” lag screw #87446 Home Depot
36 4 hollow wall mount screw SKU 1006AWHXL MutualScrew.com
37 4 #14x3” pan head screw #25201 Home Depot
38 4 #8x1” pan head screw - Home Depot
39 4 #6x1-5/8” flat head screw #158DWS1 Home Depot
40 1 Box 2-1/2”x#8 coarse
drywall screw
#212CDWS1 Home Depot
41 1 Tung Oil finish Minwax 67500 Home Depot
42 1 long cuff gloves 24203-08 Home Depot
45 1 cotton cloth or rag - -
46 1 sanding sponge medium grit Home Depot
Figure 1. Part Locations
16
25
19
24
23
23
31
27
29
26
28
2424
20
21 21
17
21
19
18
4
Assembly Instructions
Building the Frame
1. Locate 2”x4” cedar lumber (Item 17). Measure 1” from end of stock and scribe a
vertical line using the square (Item 6). Use a pencil for all lines so that the markings may be
sanded out before finishing the wood. Mark the center point of the line and then use the awl
(Item 13) to produce a starter hole. Use the 1-1/8” Spade Bit (Item 4) to drill a hole at this
point. For best results make sure the drill is perpendicular to the wood surface.
2x4 stock
1"
2. Locate the vertical line from previous step. Mark a point 5/16” to the right of line on top
and 5/16” to the left of the line on bottom of stock. Draw a line between these two marks.
This line produces an angle of approximately 80 degrees through the center of the 1-1/8”
hole. Use the wood saw (Item 10) to saw along this line through the center of the 1-1/8”
hole.
2x4 stock
5/16"
5/16"
3. Measure 32” from (2) to (3) below and scribe a 90 degree line at point (3). Use the wood
saw (Item 10) to cut on this line. Use the router (Item 9) with a ¼” round-over bit to round
all edges of the piece at the end with the 1-1/8” hole. . This completes frame piece [A].
32"(2) (3)
[A]
4. Measure 31” from line (3) to (4) on the wide side of the stock. Draw a 45 degree line on
the narrow side of the stock. Use the wood saw to cut on this line. This completes frame
piece [B].
31"(3) (4)
[B]
5
5. Hold piece [B] next to the remainder of the 2x4 stock. Mark a 90 degree line even with
piece [B] and cut there. This completes frame piece [C].
31" (5)
[B][C]
6. Measure 5-1/4” from line (5) to (6) on the wide side of the stock. Draw a 45 degree line
on the narrow side of the stock. Use the wood saw to cut on this line. This completes frame
piece [D].
5-¼"(5) (6)
[D]
7. Hold piece [D] next to the remainder of the 2x4 stock. Mark a 90 degree line even with
piece [D] and cut there. This completes frame piece [E].
5-¼" (7)
[D][E]
(6)
8. Measure 3-1/2” from line (7) to (8) on the narrow side of the stock. Draw a 60 degree line
on the wide side of the stock. Use the wood saw to cut on this line. This completes frame
piece [F].
(7)
3-½"
[F](8)
9. Locate 5/4x6” cedar lumber (Item 16). Measure 18” from end of stock and scribe a
vertical line using the square (Item 6). . Use the wood saw to cut on this line. Repeat these
steps to produce three 18” frame pieces: [G], [H] and [I]. Use the router (Item 9) with a ¼”
round-over bit to round all edges of the three pieces.
5/4X6"stock
18" 18" 18"
[G] [H] [I]
6
10. Use the ruler (Item 5) and square (Item 6) to scribe lines for the drilling points of frame
piece [G]. Use the awl (Item 13) to make a starter hole and a 1/8” drill bit to make the 8 pilot
holes in this piece. Use the countersink bit (Item 3) to make the funnel profile on the 4 holes
with the double circles. Use a 3/16” drill bit to enlarge the 4 plain holes.
1"
1"
3" 6.5"
1.5"
Center
line
9"1.5"
[G]
11. Use the ruler (Item 5) and square (Item 6) to scribe lines for the drilling points of frame
piece [H]. Use the awl (Item 13) to make a starter hole and a 1/8” drill bit to make the
11 pilot holes in this piece. Use the countersink bit (Item 3) to make the funnel profile
on the 7 holes with the double circles. Use a 3/16” drill bit to enlarge the 4 plain holes.
1.25"
1" 1"
[H]
1.25"
1.5" 1.5"1.5"1.5"
Center
line
12. Use the ruler (Item 5) and square (Item 6) to scribe lines for the drilling points of frame
piece [I]. Use the awl (Item 13) to make a starter hole and a 1/8” drill bit to make the 23
pilot holes in this piece. Use the countersink bit (Item 3) to make the funnel profile on the 14
holes with the double circles. Use a 1/4” drill bit to enlarge the 9 plain holes.
7
3.5"[I]
1.5" 1.5"1.5"1.5"
Center
.5"
3.5" 3.5"3.5"3.5"
2"
line
.75"
4.5"4.5" 1" 1" 1"1" 1"1"
13. Locate 1-1/8” x 72” dowel (Item 18). Use the tape measure to measure 61” and draw a
line at that point. Use the wood saw to cut the piece to 61” long.
61"
[J]
14. Use the tape (Item 7) to scribe lines around the dowel. Use the round file (Item 12) to
produce a groove around the piece about ¼” deep. Use the router (Item 8) to round the ends
of the piece.
[J]
¾"¾"
3/8" 3/8"
15. Place part [H] on a flat surface with the side with 5 countersunk holes closest to [I].
Align part [I] such that it is at 90 degrees to part [H] and the ends are lined up as per the
drawing below. Use a 1/8” drill bit to produce pilot holes at the five counter sunk holes at
the bottom of [I]. Install five drywall screws (Item 40) to secure [I] to [H].
[H][I]
Centerline
8
16. Use parts [H] and [I] to align parts [B], [F] and [C] so they are all even and 90 degrees to
part [I]. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole and countersink from [C] to [F] and [B] to [F] and screw [B]
and [C] to [F] using drywall screws (Item 40). Use a 1/8” drill bit to produce pilot holes at
the 5 middle counter sunk holes at the bottom of [I]. Install 5 drywall screws to secure [B],
[C] & [F] to [I]. Use a 1/8” drill bit to produce pilot holes at the 5 middle counter sunk holes
at the bottom of [H]. Install 5 drywall screws to secure [B], [C] & [F] to [H].
[B]
[C]
[I]
[H]
17. Mount parts [D] and [E] on each side of [B] and [C]. Use a 1/8” drill bit to produce pilot
holes at the 4 outer counter sunk holes at the bottom of [I]. Install 4 drywall screws to secure
[D] & [E] to [I]. Use a 1/8” drill bit to produce pilot holes at the 2 outer counter sunk holes
at the bottom of [H]. Install 2 drywall screws to secure [D] & [E] to [H].
[D]
[E]
[B]
[C][F]
[H]
18. Install part [A] between [B] and [C]. Adjust part [A] such that the frame is 50” as
shown. Use a 1/8” drill bit to produce three pilot holes and counter sunk holes in the [B] side
to mount [B] to [A] and from the [C] side to mount [C] to [A]. Position [G] as shown. Use a
1/8” drill bit to produce 4 pilot holes from the bottom of [G] to secure [G] to [A], [B] & [C].
9
[D]
[E]
[B]
[C][F]
[H]
[A]
50"
[G]
4.5"
19. Use the square to scribe a line 9” from [I] onto [B] and [C]; this will be the axle
centerline. Scribe lines at 10.5” and 7.5” from [I]. Extend the router bit ¼” below the router
base and then route a corner groove between the 7.5” and 10.5” lines. This groove will
provide clearance for the flywheel hub.
[B]
[C]
[H]
[A]
9"
[G]
7.5"
10.5"
20. Use the sponge sanding block (Item 46) to smooth the wood frame and paddle. Use
gloves (Item 42) and a piece of cloth (Item 45) to apply the finish (Item 41) to all surfaces of
the wood. Follow product directions on the container for number of coats and drying time.
21. Use four mounting screws (Item 38) to mount the upright block (Item 25) to the frame.
Use four mounting screws (Item 39) to mount eyelets (Item 23) to the frame.
[A]
2" 4.5"11.5"
22. Cut a section of the aluminum bushing tube (Item 30) as follows. Then cut a slot along
the entire length of the bushing; to allow the flywheel set screws to compress the bushing
onto the axle.
10
2-¼"
23. Press the bushing into the flywheel (Item 31) center bore. Loosely install the set screws
(Item 32) into the flywheel. Note: if the flywheel comes with square bolt set screws, discard
them, as they are too long and will protrude into the wood frame.
24. Mount the flywheel (Item 31) onto the axle (Item 29), then the two bearings (Item 26).
Cut two ½” long pieces of bushing pipe (Item 30) to act as spacers. Use the round file to
enlarge the bore so that the spacers move easily on the axle shaft. Put one on each side after
the bearings, per the drawing. The clutch roller set (Item 28) contains the roller bracketed by
a fender washers and small nylon washers. Install clutch roller set on each side following the
spacers, such that when the clutch roller is rotated, the axle & flywheel will move in the
direction of the arrow on the flywheel. Install a collar clamp (Item 27) on each side of the
clutch roller set and tighten the set screw lightly.
31
2726
28
3030
2627
30
29
28
25. Mark pieces [B] and [C] for the bearing mounting screws as follows: Use the square to
scribe lines 1-1/4” on each side of the axle centerline. Scribe a line ¾” from the outside
edges of [B] and [C]. Place the flywheel assembly with the flywheel set screws toward the
11
right side or [B] piece of the frame for a fit check; check that the flywheel spins smoothly.
Check the mounting screw marks match the bearing mounting holes. Remove the flywheel
assembly. Use the awl to mark the four mounting hole drill points. Use a 1/8” drill to make
a four pilot holes followed by a ¼” bit to make the four screw holes. Reinstall the flywheel
assembly and use four lag screws (Item 35) to mount the flywheel assembly bearings to the
frame. Adjust the flywheel so it spins smoothly and tighten the flywheel set screws. Loosen
the two collar clamp set screws, move the collars toward the flywheel so that there are no
open spaces between components on the axle and tighten the set screws.
[B]
[C]
[H]
[A]
[G]
1-¼"
1-¼" ¾"
¾"
9"
26. Cut two 20” pieces of paracord (Item 21). Tie an overhand knot on one end and loop
through the 4 holes in part [I] and through the pulley (Item 24) starting from the outside with
a knot above the part and ending toward the center with a knot toward the bottom. The cords
secure the pulleys to the frame.
[I]
27. Cut a 12” piece of shock cord (Item 19) and a 24” piece of paracord (Item 21). Overlap
the two pieces and tape together. Tie an overhand knot between the two pieces of tape and
pull tight. Remove the tape and trim excess line from the knot.
Put the cord end through the center hole in piece [I] and the shock cord through the eyelet
(Item 23) closest to the flywheel so that the paracord lies in the flywheel edge slot. Thread
the shock cord through a cord lock (Item 22). Adjust the lock such that the knot is midway
between the flywheel and the eyelet. Tie a double knot in the paracord on the bottom side of
[I] to secure the cord to the frame. Tie a knot at the end of the shock cord so the cord clamp
is secured. Adjust the cord clamp so there is light friction of the paracord on the flywheel.
12
shock cord paracord
28. Tie the end of the remaining shock cord to the third pulley (Item 24). Thread the other
end of the shock cord through the upright block (Item 25) such that it loops around the top of
the upright block and the remainder lies against the frame and runs through the top eyelet
(Item 23). Pull the shock cord lightly so that the pulley (Item 24) sits against the upright
block and tie the cord to the eyelet using a bow knot so that it may be retied when adjusting
tension of the 5/16” cord on the rollers.
29. Thread the 5/16” rope (Item 20) through the pulley blocks (Item 24) and around the
clutch rollers (Item 28) such that pulling on either end of the rope turns the flywheel.
13
30. Attach the rope ends to the paddle using a double overhand sliding loop knot to secure
the rope to the paddle. This is a sliding knot that cinches onto the paddle when the rope is
pulled.
31. Use the wall mounting hardware (items 36 and 37) to mount the wall paddler in the
desired location. Wall paddler is mounted vertically as shown in Figure 1 and requires about
3 foot clear space around the paddler so that the paddle does not strike any objects. Mount
the wall paddler about 1 foot off the floor. Use the Hollow wall mount screws (Item 36) to
mount to drywall and the pan head screws (Item 37) to mount to wood. Frame part [I] has
mounting holes that are 16” apart to align to wall studs that are typically 16” apart. If
mounting to other wall materials, consult with your neighborhood hardware store to find the
appropriate mounting hardware.
32. Stand or place a stool or seat about 5-6 feet from the wall, in front of the Wall Paddler.
Paddle at a low resistance to start with and increase resistance by adjusting the cord lock
when the paddling feels too easy. Enjoy your Wall Paddler.
Notes
1. Although cedar is preferred for this project, other woods may be substituted.
2. Tandem paddling may be tried by adding a second set of ropes and paddle
attached to the main paddle.
3. For safety sake read manufacturer’s instructions before using all tools,
operating any equipment or using wood finishing products.
4. Always wear safety glasses (Item33) and a dust mask (Item 34) while
producing sawdust during sanding, sawing, routing etc.
5. The 5/16” rope should be of a double braided type for best adhesion to the
rollers and flexibility to run through the small diameter rollers. Other types
of rope will not work as well.
6. The paddle length is a matter of personal preference. If the trainer is used
for SUP training a length greater than the normal 61 inches may be
preferred. If used for kayak and SUP training, it may be beneficial to have
paddles of differing lengths or a single paddle with multiple grooves. The
ropes may be easily changed in any case.