volume 10, number 4
DESCRIPTION
Volume 10, Number 4TRANSCRIPT
M A D E
Volu
me
10 N
umbe
r 4
in Hawaii
Jack McCoy25 F i lms Later
Kalani David. Photo: Laserwolf
ApertureBest of the Season
CommunityTradi t ional Board Bui ld ing
FREESURF_Hurley_SP13_JJF 2.indd 1 3/21/13 8:38 AM
FREESURF_Hurley_SP13_JJF 2.indd 1 3/21/13 8:38 AM
freesurf_sps.indd 1 13/03/13 9:56 AM
Free Parking
Kaimana Henry threads the fine line between finesse and power at Pieline. Photo: Mike Latronic
Features
NSSS Pipe Pro JrJunior Bomb Squad
22
Grom ReportWyatt McHale
She RipsVanina Walsh
Industry NotesBest of the Biz
MusicRoot Hub
Last LookCrystal Blue Persuasion
54
56
58
60
64
Free ParkingFinesse Meets Power
Cover StoryBarrel Face
Editor’s NoteWinter Adventures
News & EventsThe Latest Affairs of the Aina
The InsideFor the Ocean Inspired
8
14
14
16
20Fun in the sun with this month’s She Rips, Vanina Walsh. Photo: Tony Heff
ApertureThe Best of the Season
CommunityTraditional Hawaiian Board Building
32 52
25 Films LaterJack McCoy
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Departments
WHIPThe Whip is an excellent paddling, high-performance shortboard for very small to head-high waves. In line with the trend towards fuller planshapes, this board is a completely different animal on the bottom contour. Featuring a deep single concave that isn’t parabolic like most, but rather more like an inverted vee. This creates a turbomost, but rather more like an inverted vee. This creates a turbo-charged effect with exceptional drive, tail control and directional stability. It’s low-entry nose rocker helps it paddle and catch waves easily, while the rail curve and accentuated tail lift enable the rider to execute fast, full-rotational carves in the face.
Size this model 1 - 2” shorter, and 1/8 - 3/8" wider than your regular shortboard.
RIOTThe Riot is another high performance grovel-machine that will keepyou in the water on even the smallest of days. At first glance the Riot you in the water on even the smallest of days. At first glance the Riot looks like a short and stout brother to Eric’s GX model. At closer glance, however, you’ll find increased rail curve, which comes from blending-in bottom elements of the K4 model. Most classic “grovelers” are wide and meaty, with ultra-flat rockers making them less than functional in waves over chest high. The Riot, however, stays fast and lively thanks to it’s blend of the K4 rail curve and concave with a GX outline. The result is an increase in drive and speed with full-rotation turns and result is an increase in drive and speed with full-rotation turns and release off the lip.
TRANSFORMERThe transformer is a hybrid of Eric Arakawa’s popular GX and Super The transformer is a hybrid of Eric Arakawa’s popular GX and Super Skate models, with the outline fullness and rocker halfway between the two. The objective is to blend the best qualities of both models into one design. From the Super Skate, the ease of catching waves, stability, and glide through flat sections. From the GX, its high performance groveling characteristics in small waves. This combination of design gives the Transformer an easy but versatile ride of speed, drive, and stability, with more vertical maneuverability than the typical “grovel fish”. with more vertical maneuverability than the typical “grovel fish”.
The Transformer works well as a thruster or with a quad fin setup.
With over 20 different Eric Arakawa models to choose from,HIC’s got the right board to take your surfing to the next level.
Ala Moana Center Street Level, Mauka 808-973-6780
Davin Torres-Jaime takes the Riot Model for a spin. Photo: J. Mack
w w w . h i c s u r f . c o m
SummerShortboardsHigh performance small wave designs
by Eric Arakawa
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Editorial
Publisher: Mike Latronic
Managing Editor: Lauren Shanahan
Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic
Staff Photographers : Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Mike Latronic, Taylor Ivison, Chris Latronic
Art Director : John Weaver
Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock
Free Thinker : Nick Carroll
Office Manager: Amy Withrow
Contributing Photographers
Eric Baeseman (Outbluffum.com), Paulo Barcellos, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback,
Kyle Burnett, Ryan Craig, Quincy Dein, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Paul Fisher,
Pete Frieden, Bryce Johnson, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf,
Bruno Lemos, ManaPhoto, Zak Noyle, Sean Reilly, Sebastian Rojas, Jim Russi, Epes
Sargent, Lauren Shanahan, Jason Shibata, Batel Shimi, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Wyatt
Tillotson, Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Joli Wilson
Sales
Advertising Executive : Shaun Lopez, Maile Botelho, Natasha Briley
Business Coordinator : Cora Sanchez
Advertising Inquiries
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Watch Board Stories and Billabong Surf TV on OC16 - Channel 12, or 112 digital in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv
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Cover Story
Editor’s Note
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‘Springtime’ is what it says on the calendar, but it still looks like winter to us here on the north shore. We’ve enjoyed some epic wind and rain, mixed with late season northwest swell offerings- perfect conditions for a few spring-breakers to test their mettle in serious waves before the season’s slumber in summer. Which reminds me that there has also been some small kine action on the south side- Diamond Head to Kewalo’s had plenty wave action! Especially for the NSSA Regional Championships, which enjoyed contestable surf for all of Hawaii’s top groms to perform in. South shore is a delight in the winter and a delicacy in the summer. The stoke is everywhere and I hope you all are taking every advantage to tally up those rides on either sides.
Let me take a moment to give you a quick replay of my own late winter adventure: For those reading from the mainland (and for snowboarding surfers), snowboarders have also been frothing lately, harvesting multiple powder days accumulated from a copious slew of final winter storms. My recent venture brought me to Vail, Colorado to cover the Burton US Open of snowboarding. It was incredible to see where the progression of this sport has come. Shaun White was the inevitable victor, and in the half pipe he was unstoppable. During his victory lap, instead of doing some intricate new move to wow the crowd, he gracefully laid down a series of frontside and backside carves, picturesque of throw-tail snaps in surfing. He was giving honor to the very root of snowboarding… which is surfing. Just a few surfers up in the mountains looking to find that feeling
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Kalani David sure has grown up… But I swear, that classic barrel expression of his has never changed. From ripping up the ramps and rails at the skate parks to charging heavy Backdoor Pipeline, this talented north shore wonder kid has been on the action sports radar from before he could even realize it. Now Kalani has emerged a worthy competitor, making heats by completing memorable feats. At this year’s Pipeline Jr. Pro, Mother Nature tested the juniors in some extreme gnarl-binding conditions, but only one looked poised and comfortable amongst the angry Pipeline seas. During this contest, Pipe showed a number of different faces, seriously weeding out the men from the boys. The reigning world junior champion, put on a clinic threading multiple barrels to not only claim victory over the North Shore Surf Shop Pipe Pro Jr, but also this month’s cover of Freesurf magazine.
Exuberating that same expression of stoke on any typical day, Kalani David’s success is well deserved. It has been said many times before in surfing competition that the best results were achieved when the winning surfer was “just out there trying to have fun”. And Kalani David further proved that sentiment again.
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equivalent to getting barreled, and who loved getting barreled so much that they invented a way to do it in the snow. BOOM. Snowboarding. I never thought I’d feel so much pride as a surfer so far away from the ocean.
In this always-special issue of Freesurf, I was able to meet surf filmmaking legend Jack McCoy. We talked about his past roots, his view of surfing, and his most recent feature film debut, “A Deeper Shade of Blue”. Jack McCoy is classic! Kind and good-natured, and he possesses a knowledge of water filming that is legendary. While Jack gives us a sense of nostalgia, our She Rips and Grom Report featurettes offer some fresher discourse. And speaking of ripping groms and grommettes, the last ASP Junior event of the season illuminated the top junior men and women at the Pipeline, for one last party. But this time, the ‘Banzai’ really came to play.
What better way to spring into the north shore wave lull than to document the highlights of this past season? Lastly, for our Aperture gallery we bring you some of the best moments from this past winter on the north shore, complete with guts, gore, and glory. Mahalos for enjoying this Freesurf magazine and I hope to see you in the water! Aloha!
-Chris Latronic
Wanderlust a Colorful Affair
The four-day celebration of yoga, music, and nature took place during a warm sunny weekend along the fabled north shore of Oahu at Turtle Bay Resort & Spa. With a music line-up including Michael Franti, John Cruz, Paula Fuga, Alo and others, plus classes and talks
led by noteworthy individuals such as Gerry Lopez, Ian Akahi Masterson, Rochelle Ballard, Kahokule‘a Haiku, and Tom “Pohaku” Stone, Wanderlust Oahu was beyond a success. Yoga mats adorned the outdoor lawns for sun salutations while others walked barefoot along the beaches or took a surf lesson. The schedule of events ranged from nutrition consultation to ukulele lessons to cultural walks, speakeasys, hula basics, and yoga on stand up paddle boards. The ultimate occasion for the eager wanderer, the north shore couldn’t have provided a more ideal setting.
Ho’okipa Beach Park on Maui was the playground for Ian Walsh’s 10th Annual Menehune Mayhem, an all-day free junior surf event. With wave faces ranging between 8 to 12 feet, the groms tested their mettle in triple over-head waves, fitting conditions given the event founder, big wave surfer Ian Walsh. And while the competition is all about stoking out the youth of Maui, it also rewards competitors for good grades. As high school valedictorian of his graduating class in 2001, Ian recognizes the importance of doing well in academics.
“School is something they’ll take with them throughout their whole lives, everything they’ll learn in the next 10 years. It was something that was always super important to me that I grew up under through my parents and brothers. So I just want to reward them, some of the best prizes I have in this whole event is for the highest GPA. You can see after nine years that kids are just striving for that point to get to that GPA where they win a board, an iPod or something fun.” – Ian Walsh
Ian Walsh’s 10th Annual Menehune Mayhem
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News & Events
Volcom Totally Crustaceous Surf Tour, Pufferfish at Makaha
The Makaha stop off on the Volcom Totally Crustaceous tour offered some pretty sweet swag for the Pufferfish contestants of Hawaii, not to mention great waves at Makaha. Congrats to pro-am winner Josh Moniz, who also qualified for the US Championships this May and won the Electric Volt Thrower award. While the Volcom Totally Crustaceous Surf Tour focuses on fun rather than anything lucrative, the kids compete for great giveaways, and parents are probably stoked that the entry is free.
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Dusty Payne and Carissa Moore Claim Victory
PRO-AM
1. Josh Moniz $1000.002. Reo Inaba3. Seth Moniz
JUNIORS
1. Elijah Gates $250 Muscle Milk2. Jackson Baker3. Taichi Wakita
GROM
1. Reef Tsutsui2. Tony Nunez3. Isaiah Briley
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Rob
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onSQUIDS
1. Barron Mamiya2. Noa Mizuno3. Kameron Dowis
GIRLS
1. Maili Enos2. Emily Nishimoto3. Carly Wilson
ELECTRIC VOLT THROWER
Josh Moniz - $100
At the Drug Aware Margaret River Pro in Western Australia, Carissa Moore took 1st place in stop no. 2 of 8 on the ASP Women’s World Championship Tour, while Dusty Payne nabbed his first major ASP event win. Both athletes fought through a stacked field of the world’s best to claim their respective victories. Setting up a good title race for 2013, this is Carissa’s first ASP Women’s WCT event win in over a year. The Margaret River Pro is also the first men’s ASP PRIME rated event for the 2013 season, making these valuable wins for both Hawaii surfers on the tour. Congratulations to our local champions!
MEN’S FINALS RESULTS
Dusty Payne (HAW) 16.36 def. Josh Kerr (AUS) 13.20
MEN’S SEMIFINALS RESULTS
SF 1: Dusty Payne (HAW) 18.00 def. Julian Wilson (AUS) 17.16
SF 2: Josh Kerr (AUS) 11.33 vs. Adrian Buchan (AUS) 9.43
KICK ASS GROM
Kahula Kahokuloa - (Team Associated RC Truck)
WATERMELON AWARD
Noah Bradbury - (Alex Grays Board)BASHWASH BANGERTristan Aiwohi - (Zekes boards)
WOMEN’S FINALS RESULTS
Carissa Moore (HAW) 11.00 def. Tyler Wright (AUS) 6.94
WOMEN’S SEMIFINALS RESULTS
SF 1: Carissa Moore (HAW) 13.27 def. Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 9.56
SF 2: Tyler Wright (AUS) 18.43 def. Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 14.83
Josh Moniz
Greg Long ClaimsBig Wave World Title
Congratulations to Greg Long, winner of the 4th season Big Wave World Tour! Greg was declared Big Wave World Champion at the Surfing Heritage Foundation Museum in San Clemente, California at the "Crowning of the Champion" party. During the tour, Greg placed 2nd at the Billabong Pico Alto event in Peru, 3rd at the Mavericks Invitation in Half Moon Bay, California and 2nd at the Nelscott Reef Big Wave Classic in Lincoln City, Oregon. By the end of the season, Greg would finish nearly 1000 points ahead of his fellow competitors. Reigning champ Peter Mel spoke via tele conference during the ceremony, congratulating the new champion. “It is my honor to pass the torch to another great young man, Mr. Greg Long”.
2013 Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast Presented by Land Rover
For his 52nd career win, Kelly Slater prevailed over current World Champ Joel Parkinson. In the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast finals, 3 to 5 foot dredging Kirra barrels set the stage for a showdown that’s been waiting to happen since last year’s Pipe Masters. In the defining moment, Slater utlized priority to keep Parko from exiting the barrel he needed for the win, capping off an exciting opening event. The next stop on the World Championship Tour is the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach presented by Ford from March 27 – April 7th followed by the Billabong Rio Pro in Brazil, May 8 – 19th, 2013.
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2013 NSSA Hawaii Regional Championships
NSSA Hawaii held its Regional Championships at Kewalos this past month, with three days of contestable waves and variable winds. Surfers who qualified from all the islands came together during this event to compete for the Regional title and a spot at Nationals. Here are the first place results. For the full official results, check out freesurfmagazine.com. Open Mens
Seth Moniz Open Jrs.
Seth Moniz Open Womens
Dax McGill Open Girls
Mahina Maeda Open Boys
Finn McGill Open Mini Groms
Brodi Sale Open Longboard
Kylie Nagy Explorer Mens
Cole Yamakawa
Pipe Women’s Pro 2013
Check out our May issue for the full run-down of this event, and in the meantime here are the Pipe Women’s Pro 2013 Results:
Shortboard
1. Dax McGill2. Anastasia Ashley3. Tatiana Weston Webb4. Francie Harrier5. Brianna Cope6. Melanie Bartels
Longboard
1. Izumi Baldwin2. Maili Inos Brennegan
Bodyboard
1. Karla Costa Taylor2. Minami Hatekeyama3. Aoi Koike4. Asako Shiotsuki5. Melanie Bartels
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QUIKSILVER PRO GOLD COAST FINAL RESULTS
1 – Kelly Slater (USA) 18.562 – Joel Parkinson (AUS) 17.47
QUIKSILVER PRO GOLD COAST SEMIFINAL
RESULTS
SF 1: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 18.17 def. Michel Bourez (PYF) 15.80SF 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 19.37 def. Mick Fanning (AUS) 18.60
Explorer Womens
Moana Jones Explorer Jrs.
Seth Moniz Explorer Boys
Loa Ng Explorer Menehunes
Finn McGill Explorer Super Grom
Tony Nunez Explorer Girls
Kahanu Delovio Explorer Longboard
Sierra Lerback Airshow Winner
Josh Moniz
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www.jambahawaii.com
O R D E
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ASTED
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Turkey Pesto Melt
Jamba HawaiiTwo New Breakfast
Sandwiches
made in hawaii
The Inside
Shorebreak Savage, Clark Little
Hometown: Pupukea, North Shore, Oahu
Why surf photography? I love being thrown around in the waves and getting the shot of a perfect barrel. The ocean is my second home. Just love it!
Most known for: Shots of thick North Shore shorebreak
Favorite subject: The barrel
Your best shot: “Marlin”, a shot of two waves colliding during the sunrise. It was featured in National Geographic and has been on the cover and inner page of many magazines. Your equipment: Nikon cameras, Water Housings Hawaii housing by Taro, Hurley rash guard and surf shorts, Ally swim fins, and a cup of coffee with espresso for added energy to get through big sets. Tips for beginners: “Passion” is your biggest asset. More info: Gallery: Clark Little Gallery Haleiwa across from Kua ‘Aina burgers in Haleiwa Town Center.
www.ClarkLittle.comInstagram: instagram.com/clarklittleFacebook: facebook.com/clarklittlephotography
Photog Profile
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Stuff We Like
We’ve been on the hunt for a good pair of sunglasses to protect against Hawaii’s harsh elements. So we tried out some of Maui Jim’s On The Water sunglasses, and here’s our thoughts:
• Polarized technology: Check out that school of stick fish! You can seriously see every reef formation beneath the surface.
• Lightweight material: Doesn’t give you that nasty sweat buildup on the nose
bridge or temples.
• Thick side design: Helps to shield blinding sunrays from your
peripheral vision.
• Glass lenses: The thin glass makes these sunglasses saltwater safe and easy to rub away grime.
• Style: Get all this functionality and still look good. No need wear those goofy sea specs no mo’!
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What’s the best DIY ding repair brand out
there?
Any solarez (U.V.) ding repair kit because it’s quick and fast, and very easy to use.
What is the most important thing for
surfers to remember when fixing a ding
themselves?
Be sure to let your ding DRY completely before starting your repair and never ever use polyester resin on EPS core foam, it will melt
won’t break a surfer’s bank?
Most all surf shops will drain your pockets with their repair prices. Learn to do it your self or talk to your local shaper; they usually have the resources to get you started on the right path to get to your board repaired correctly.
www.bretboards.com
DIY Ding Repair with Bret Marumoto
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Freesurf’s photographers put the new Otterbox Armor Series’ waterproof, drop proof, dust proof, and crush proof smartphone case to the test in Hawaii’s fiercest conditions; the waves on the North Shore. Here’s what TR had to say:
“The case is very sturdy and feels solid in your hand, like it won’t come apart and pop open and leak. While it may be a bit bulky for everyday use, for getting in and around the water, this case is perfect. I also like the ability to attach a leash string, which is especially useful if you’re taking it out into the surf.“
like ice cream in the hot sun.
What’s the best way to fix a crack in the tail
rail (“rail cancer”) to be sure it lasts?
Most tail rail cracks or rail cancer’s can be repaired with a combination of sanding resin with chopped up fiberglass cloth to form a putty that is then placed inside and around the repair area.
Any suggestions for local ding repair that
News & Events Hef
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Kaulana Apo
North Shore Surf Shop
Pipe Pro JrBy Lauren Shanahan
Junior surfers today are living the dream. With the prospect of making the WCT Dream Tour, dream pay checks cashing, and now dream events that were only a mere hope for young surfers, the career of an adolescent surfer is looking quite cushy. Ask any junior what their ultimate surf experience would be and we bet it’ll sound something like this, “To surf perfect Pipe with only a few other guys out, those other guys being my friends.” With a small community feel on the North Shore, most of these juniors are surfing amongst their close buds, not to mention competing with a sense of camaraderie seen more so than ever. There is a fine line when it comes to friendship and competition, and with surfing, it’s clearly drawn in the sand at the waters edge.
The 2nd Annual North Shore Surf Shop Pipe Pro Junior showed off junior surfers like never before, in an uncrowded line up that was cranking out solid waves. And the North Shore Surf Shop Pipe Pro Junior was monumental for a few reasons this year. Contestants got to enjoy surfing proper Pipeline, since last year’s conditions didn’t line up for Pipe and the kids moved down the beach to Gums (Pipe’s sandbar neighbor). Also making history this year, the Pipe Pro Jr. was webcasted live online, which is scheduled to air again this month on Time Warner Cable’s surf channel 250. Light variable winds kept conditions clean on both days, and spectators got a taste for the fear and excitement that was felt amongst the competitors.
TThe juniors showed incredible prowess as they bared their teeth back at the beastly sets. In the first day of competition, waves rolled in at the 6 to 10 foot range, with second reef waves making appearances as well. The second and final day dropped to 4 to 6 foot Pipeline Backdoor, making for perfect waves for the competitors. The talent that erupted out of these two days of surfing was astounding, with the juniors navigating Pipe and Backdoor with a knowledge beyond their years. The aptitude of these young pros gives credence to the rising bar in the future of surfing. And the talent pool is only getting better.
Standouts of the event included 1st place winners Kalani David and Tatiana Weston-Webb, who showed determination while attacking the infamous break. Close runner ups Koa Smith and Brianna Cope also surfed well, but couldn’t quite find the waves in the final. Dax McGill and Bailey Nagy took 3rd and 4th place respectively in Junior Womens, while Carlos Munoz and Nathan Florence placed 3rd and 4th in Junior Mens.
Proving grounds have turned into training grounds and we’re seeing freakish talent at increasingly younger ages. The action at this event was palpable as the juniors continued to prove themselves in wave after pounding wave. Congratulations to the winners and great job to all the other contestants.
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Kalani David
Tatiana Weston-Webb
HONO-FREE SURF AD-MARCH.13.indd 1 2/11/13 11:05 AM
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Carlos Muñoz
Cam Richards Isaiah Moniz
Koa Smith
North Shore Surf Shop Pipe Pro Junior Results
Jr. Mens
1. KALANI DAVID (OAHU)2.KOA SMITH (KAUAI)3.CARLOS MUÑOZ (COSTA RICA)4.NATHAN FLORENCE (OAHU)
Jr. Women
1.TATIANA WESTON–WEBB (KAUAI)2.BRIANNA COPE (KAUAI)3. DAX MC GILL (OAHU)4. BAILEY NAGY (OAHU)
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Much Mahalos to the Sponsors!
Jack McCoy
Intro by Lauren Shanahan Interview by Chris Latronic
Much of what you see in surf films today (the slow motion water photography, the time lapse of a sunset, the beautiful underwater imagery), is because Jack McCoy did it first. Seriously, the guy helped pioneer surf cinematography as we know it today, and all while doing it the traditional way; with rolls of 16mm film, a dark room, and multiple swims back into the lineup in order to get that one perfect shot. Throughout the 30 years that Jack has been capturing surf footage, the evolution he’s witnessed has been astounding. Equipment has upgraded from clunky, tiresome water housings into clean, light body designs with ports and controls for optimal optical quality. Surf photography and cinematography has come a long way. And Jack McCoy is one who continues to push the envelope. It’s hard to imagine what surfing would look like today without Jack’s influence. His innovation set the standard for unique angles, fine-tuned techniques, and incredible underwater photography. Paving the frontier, this award-winning surf filmmaker marked his 25th surf movie with the documentary, “A Deeper Shade of Blue.” Jack McCoy has expressed that this film is the sum total of his life’s work. A powerful statement given he’s made 24 other films, each one
“In my belief and understanding, Hawai`i is the true spiritual home of surfing. “
-Jack McCoy
significant in their own way. But this particular one not only showcases new technology in surf cinematography, (visions came true when Jack discovered a jet ski that reaches up to 10 knots underwater. With a camera mount on top, he was able to capture footage of surfers in the barrel from behind the wave, an angle and scene like never before), but also traces the lineage of surfing and gives ode to the Hawaiian culture. Ultimately, “A Deeper Shade of Blue” is a celebration of the sport’s deepest roots. Dave Homcy, an award-winning north shore-based surf filmmaker spoke about the power of old movies, the look of an antiquated lens, and the feel of a 16mm film. All of Jack’s original films were shot this way, and Dave was inspired by this film technique while growing up watching surf movies. “I love the look of shooting on film and the effect that some of the older cameras and lenses give you… It’s
just keeping that vibe alive,” says Dave. One thing that is apparent in most of Jack’s films is his ability to evoke
a sense of nostalgia.
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And Dave mentions that his own pieces are greatly influenced by Jack’s earlier work and style. “Bunyip Dreaming” a film produced by Jack McCoy in 1989 featuring Munga Barry, Luke Egan, Mark Occhilupo and the late Ronnie Burns was one that Dave recalls watching on the regular. “I just loved the way he worked with time lapse, and his beautiful underwater photography.” The aged look of Jack’s movies creates a timelessness that so many appreciate. “Film is something that I hold strong and close to my heart,” Dave continues. “And that’s what Jack has always shot on.” Today, Jack experiments with mixing video and film. But his originality remains evident in the unmistakable qualities of his work. We caught up with this filmmaker and asked him his
take on the meaning of surfing, the future of surfing, and both his personal and the sport’s beginnings. With a string of films listed below, this master surf cinematographer is truly one of the world’s greatest.
How did you start surf filmmaking?
“When I was growing up I had the opportunity to see one of Bruce Brown’s early movies called “Slippery when Wet” at Kailua Elementary School. It was a really inspiring night; all of my surf hero’s were there. Like Butch Van Artsdalen and Barry Kanaiaupuni… It was kind of a lot for a little boy; to see all these guys that I had only read about and studied in surfer magazines.
“Bruce Brown was so cool, he shared the stoke of what surfing was, and I think that was implanted into me. I then went on to become a poster gremmie for some of the filmmakers. I used to work with Greg Land Gerry and Jim Freeman. Eventually, Randy Rarick and I started showing surf movies in Hawaii. I went to Australia in 1970 for a world surfing contest and loved it and stayed. I then became the agent for people like Montgomery Freeman and other people who made surfing films in America and I’d show them in Australia for them. People like Bud and Bruce Brown. So I did that for 5 years until I had a little accident. When I got out of the hospital my friend put a camera in my hand and said, “We’re gonna go make a surf movie!” I didn’t have anything
Tim
McK
enna
Jack McCoy using his customized underwater scooter rig while shooting for “A Deeper Shade of Blue.”
better to do so that’s what we did.
“We made our first surf film in 1975 called “Tubular Swells” and since then I made 25 films on surfing. Some of those include “Storm Riders”, the 1st Eddie Aikau Invitational film. I made some films for Billabong like “Bunyip Dreaming”, “The Green Iguana”, “Sons of Fun”, and “Sick Joy”. I made the Billabong challenge series, “Psychedelic Desert Groove”, “9 Lives”, “Occy: The Occumentary” – the story of Mark Occhilupo’s life, and “To’ Day of Days”. Then I made a movie that I am very proud of called “Blue Horizon” featuring the late and great Andy Irons and Dave Rastovich.
““A Deeper Shade of Blue” is my 25th feature film on surfing. It ‘s sort of an accumulation of my life’s work. It’s a movie about Hawaiian surf culture. Everything that I learned here in Hawaii is in this movie… Trying to explain to people what surfing really is rather then what is has become.”
What is the true meaning of surfing?
“Whoa…(laughing). How much time ya got? What is missing is people understanding about how Captain Cook traveled all across the Pacific, and he and his crewmates wrote down everything they saw or experienced. There are great accounts of people riding canoes and laying down riding waves in Tahiti and the rest of the Pacific Islands before Cook came to
Hawaii. But it wasn’t until he came to Hawaii that they actually saw or noted people standing up and riding waves on pieces of wood. So in my belief and understanding, Hawaii is the true spiritual home of surfing… it’s where surfing began, as we know it today.
“The millions of people that surf around the world know very little about its culture and how it started and the process of, let’s say, making a surfboard. How the priest would go with the person who wanted the board and they would make an offering to the tree they were going to cut down. Then they would cut it down. The whole process of making the surfboard was blessed. Even before they put it in the water, they blessed it. Then when they brought it back, they oiled it with kukui nut oils and wrapped it in cloths. This surfboard was very magical to the Hawaiians. It was their connection to nature. Riding a mountain of water, big or small, coming to shore riding that last little gasp of life on a wave for the Hawaiians was something they loved and respected and they treated it as something wonderful.
“And really, today, surfing gives so many people so much pleasure, but very few really respect what surfing is…its magic. I don’t call surfing a sport, I call it an art form. So if you ask me what the true meaning of surfing is… well… All I’m trying to do is share the truth. And if it
weren’t for Hawaii, we wouldn’t have surfing.”
What is proper surf etiquette?
“Before leg-ropes, the guy who was the best surfer always took inside position because it made it hard for him to make the wave. Usually resulting in losing your board and having to go swim for it. But usually the best surfers never lost their boards. So you always gave them a wide berth and gave them the respect. You work your way up the lineup to getting respect. Today with so many people surfing, and the crowds… the action is everywhere. Really I think we need to start thinking a little bit more about giving and sharing. In the sense that, the person closest to the peak should have right-of-way to catch the wave. And if you have people who aren’t that good or don’t know what they’re doing… it’s still pretty good to give and share a wave every now and then. It’s all about the aloha spirit.”
“I don’t call surfing a sport, I call it an art form.”-Jack McCoy
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What is the future of surfing?
“I don’t know where the future of surfing is going but I’m sure it’ll go somewhere very, very new and different. The big thing I hope surfing does is start to get back to giving respect to Hawaii for giving us surfing. I think that the world really owes Hawaii a lot for giving us this cultural gift that they have. I totally respect Hawaii and Hawaiians and I think “to get respect yourself, you have to give respect” and it all starts by doing that. That’s my vibe and I’m sticking to it.”
Tell us about water photography
“For me, water photography has been a big part in all of my films. I felt at the very beginning you had to be right there bringing back the pictures from the impact zone to share with people what it is like to be out there. With “A Deeper Shade Of Blue”, I had the opportunity to use this underwater jet ski with a camera mount. Although I can’t keep up with the surfers, I can travel and move around and get to places like never before. It’s extremely dangerous… Super dangerous! If I get caught by this thing, which weighs 150 pounds, I could get crushed on a reef. But after a while of practicing and becoming a more proficient driver, I was able to capture some images that I could only dream about.”
Jack’s List of Films
Tubular Swells (1976)Storm Riders (1982)Kongs Island (1983)Trade Wind (1984)Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational (1985)Jungle Jet Set - Surf Hits Vol 1 (1988)Bunyip Dreaming (1990)The Green Iguana (1992)The Son’s of Fun (1993)Sik Joy (1994)Rhythm Of The Sea (1994)The Billabong Challenge #1 Mystery Left (1995)The Billabong Challenge #2 Perfect Right J-Bay (1995)Psychedelic Desert Groove (1996)Alley Oop (1997)Wide Open (1998)
Occy: The Occumentary (1998)Sabotaj (1998)9 Lives Billabong Challenge 4 & 5 (1999)To’ Day Of Days (2001)The Morning Glass (2001)Blue Horizon (2003)Ioarana (2005)Free As A Dog (2006)A Deeper Shade Of Blue (2011)
Frame grabs from “A Deeper Shade of Blue”
Aperture
Mikala Jones uses local knowledge to find key moments anywhere on the North Shore. This time at Off-the-Wall. Photo: Ryan Chachi Craig
Damien Hobgood has been coming to the North Shore for years, and has surfed it from two feet to twenty. A standout in all conditions. Photo: Tony Heff
Stephen Koehne flew over from Kauai for key swells and reaped the rewards at Pipeline. Photo: Tyler Rock
Flynn Novak, streaking Pipeline. Photo: Tyler Rock
Kawai Lindo had a good winter, and many moments like this. Photo: Patrick Vieira
Kolohe Andino finds the honey hole at Backdoor. Photo: Mike Latronic
Eli Olson plays hide and seek with the Pipeline lip. Photo: Tony Heff
Latr
onic
Having some of the best waves on the planet in your backyard makes being a surf grom that much better. Barron Mamiya, Backdoor Photo: Wyatt Tillotson
Noah Beschen, V-Land. Photo:Mike Latronic
The Maui boys are represented well on the North Shore during winter. Dege O’Connell getting water time at Rocky Point. Photo: Chris Latronic
Perhaps nobody had a better winter than Brazilian Ricardo dos Santos. Ricardo scored numerous Pipe bombs on this day including the Surfline Wave of the Winter winning ride for $25,000. Photo: Paulo Barcellos
With all of the good rides at Pipe throughout the winter, there is sure to be some blood sacrificed. Sean Moody takes the fall this time. Photos: Tony Heff
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Photo: Brian Bielmann
Brazil’s latest wiz kid, Filipe Toledo, brings his style and flair to Rocky Point. Photo:Mike Latronic
Dax McGill Photo Bielmann
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It was no surprise to see John John Florence out at just about every good swell getting his fair share. Golden hour at Backdoor. Photo:Taylor Ivison
JD Irons remains calm in the eye of the beast. Pipeline. Photo: Tony Heff
Story & Photos by Lauren Shanahan
On a Saturday in March, under a warm Hawaii sky in Waimanalo, the spirit and culture of Hawaiian tradition was very much alive and well. The cathedral-like ridges of the Ko’olau mountain range were the ideal backdrop for an afternoon spent at the Hui Malama O Ke Kai ‘Ohana Strengthening Workshop Series: Kalai Papa He’e Nalu (Surfboard Making). Taking place over the course of 15 weeks at the Waimanalo Teen Center, keiki, teens, and parents gathered together for a hands-on experience shaping their own traditional surfboards. Led by waterman and HPU professor, Ian Akahi Masterson, the workshop was made possible through Hui Malama O Ke Kai (HMK) or “the group that takes care of the ocean.”
Fine curls of wood shavings scattered on the grass as rasp hand sanders were used against the grain of the boards. While the surfboard shaping is the focal activity, the real purpose behind the workshop is family strengthening. Malia Greaney, former HMK Director/member of the Board of Directors and current Program Evaluator, mother of two, and Molokai native spoke about the purpose and importance of this grass roots organization. Community-based and non-profit, HMK began 15 years ago through the efforts of ocean-minded and youth
development people such as Jerry Vasconcellos, Nani Akeo, Sharon Majit-Gorion, Eric Bunyan, Kawika Eckart, Sonya Evensen, and others. These surfers, body surfers, lifeguards, and canoe paddlers recognized the need for a free after-school program for the keiki. Furthermore, a program that taught kids to be safe in and love the ocean and stay grounded through Hawaiian culture and values.
Hired to teach the classes, Ian, big-wave surfer, father of three, and former HMK Program Specialist/Curriculum Developer, learned to shape and ride traditional Hawaiian surfboards. He too recognizes the great value of this ‘ohana strengthening program. “The seminar uses Hawaiian culture to bring families and individuals back to nature, which is the main thing that needs our attention.” The keiki of HMK are taught from the beginning that whatever happens on the land effects the health of the ocean; believing that it is ours to both enjoy and care for. We take care of it and it takes of care of us. Proving to be very popular, the multi-week family approach to teaching Hawaiian values through traditional surfboard making is so innovative, it may be the first ever. Malia says, “The kids, their parents, and even grandparents keep coming back every week because they believe in it too”.
The various programs within HMK are designed to give kids and families a sense of pride and ownership through cultural practices and ocean activities, ultimately instilling a personal desire to care for their community and the land. The future is bright and it is in the hands of our keiki, and HMK aims to inspire good values at impressionable ages. Words like “pono” (righteousness), “malama” (care), “mana‘o”
Traditional Board Building with Hui Malama O Ke Kai
Community
Tradition meets youth, and how sweet it is. Vaihiti practices paddling on a traditionally shaped Hawaiian surfboard.
52
(knowledge), and “kuleana” (responsibility) floated through the air that day, testament to the survival of the native culture.
Malia and Ian, along with other members and supporters of the foundation, believe it is important to reclaim the pride and brilliance of native Hawaiians and share it with the community. What better way to do this than to begin with our keiki, by teaching them about the ways of the native people who lived in a true state of “lokahi” (unity, harmony) with the ocean and all of nature. Malia spoke passionately about the future of the program and the bigger picture of its efforts; “If we can regain it, it’s a lesson not only to Hawaii, but to the whole world…We’re going to heal ourselves as a people, claim it and regain it, so it can continue to service all of us.”
This process of traditional board shaping helps bring families closer and creates a sense of ownership and pride. The beautiful end product also hopefully stands as an heirloom for families to pass down through the generations, as this ancient art and practice once was. It provides meaningful time spent together, both during building and when surfing after the workshop. For the next few months, Ian will continue to share his knowledge; from cutting the plank to shape, planing out the rocker, carving the rails evenly, and applying the homemade kukui nut oil for water resistance, the families get to spend each Saturday crafting a symbol of tradition. Once the boards are finished, the families will test them out together in the waters of Waimanalo. They’ll learn to surf on the wood boards and share in an ancient sport of the ali‘i (royalty), helping keep it alive. The family strengthening and cultural values teaching will continue on through HMK’s unique after-school youth development and leadership programs, ‘ohana programming, and youth-and-family driven community service projects.
Alberto Ricordi, a Brazilian member of HMK’s Kalai Papa He’e Nalu (surfboard making) workshop, speaks about what he’s gained here in Waimanalo. “When we are doing these activities, everybody has the same challenges, it doesn’t matter if you are Brazilian or Hawaiian,
you still have to have the patience and perseverance like everybody else.” Alberto also described how the inclusive seminar has been a different way to gain an understanding of Hawaiian culture. “This is a unique opportunity for intergeneration relationships. You don’t find this knowledge in books; you only learn it by doing it together, with other people… It’s passed down from generation to generation and hopefully the kids will be the ones in the future to be teaching the process.”
With such a positive impact seen in the keiki, families, and community of Waimanalo, HMK members anticipate similar programs growing out of other communities in Hawaii. Malia sees opportunity for growth and is excited for what lies ahead as she shared the most fulfilling part of her involvement in Hui Malama O Ke Kai, and it couldn’t be more radiant. “These children are so much more ready to face their futures and perpetuate their past. They go forward with confidence knowing the beauty and history of this land. That to me is the most fulfilling and beautiful part.”
For more information or to learn how you can help or get involved, please visit www.huimalamaokekai.org or contact Kathy Morris, HMK’s Executive Director, at (808) 258-6717.
“The seminar uses Hawaiian culture to bring families and individuals back to nature, which is the main thing that needs our attention.”
-Ian Akahi Masterson
Elia watches as his Dad helps plane the board, a Kohatsu family effort.
Favorite surfers:
“John John Florence and Dane Reynolds. John John is my first favorite surfer because he can come out of the craziest barrels and just do the biggest airs and he always looks casual while he’s doing it. Dane is my other favorite surfer because he just lands huge airs with super sick style.”
Favorite spot:
“My favorite spot is wherever looks the best when we want to go surfing. I surf the most at V-Land because it’s mostly a right and you can get some barrels and turns in.”
Grom Report
Wyatt McHale
Stats
Regular Foot
Home break: Haleiwa’s Ali’i Beach
Born: May 24, 2001
Height/ Weight: 5’0/ 85 lbs.
Sponsors: Rip Curl, Pyzel, WRV, Arnette, Vans, Future Fins, and
Waterman’s Sunscreen
Wyatt McHale caught Freesurf’s attention with his massive wrap around cutbacks and precision barrel riding, but impressed us even more when we sat down to chat with the little shralper. Between school, surfing, jujitsu, skating, Math Olympiads, and the Science Enrichment Program, Freesurf squeezed in an interview at V-Land with this talented young grom. You completely forget that Wyatt is only 11 years old the minute you meet him. Not only is his surfing at a level far beyond his years, but his demeanor is too. Radiating with enthusiasm, Wyatt seems determined to succeed in whatever he does. Watch out world, Wyatt’s hungry.
Roc
k
By Sean Reilly
Favorite post session grinds:
“Pupukea Grill, the shoyu chicken is so good there.”
What does your quiver look like?
“My quiver is mostly 4’11 Pyzels. My step up board is a 5’3 Pyzel, and my biggest board is a 5’6, all from Pyzel.”
If you had to compete, one heat winner takes all for your surf
celebrity crush, who would it be?
“Alana Blanchard, but that would be a pretty stacked heat.”
Do you have any friendly rivalries?
“Noah Beschen and Finn McGill are my friendly rivalries. We surf together all the time and are pushing each other to the next level every session.
Do you cross-train?
“I do jujitsu with Master Mike. I’m a yellow belt. I think it helps my surfing a lot because it makes me stronger and almost hungry to compete. And after that, you can just go surfing, and it’s super fun. I usually do it three times a week; Monday, Wednesday, and Fridays.
Continued on Page 62
By Lauren Shanahan
Joining the Stand Up World Tour in 2012 and currently traveling the world for competition, Vanina Walsh is the all-around watergirl. Freshly sixteen years old, this ocean enthusiast has a lot to show off; a recent 3rd place win at the first women’s event of the 2013 Stand Up World Tour at Turtle Bay, 2nd place in the women’s division of the Standup World Tour’s Hawaii stop 2012, personal fabric designs for the 2012 Honey Girl Water Wear bikini line, a sponsorship with Roxy, Starboard, and Coop (among many others), and a positive attitude to boot.
Originally from Arizona but spending a lot of time in Mexico, the Walsh’s moved to Oahu in 2006, rounding out a list of Vanina’s abodes by the age of 9. Her dad pushed her into that first wave
She Rips
Vanina Walshduring a vacation to Waikiki and thus the surf addiction began. “Ever since then I knew it was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life,” Vanina remarks. And that is exactly what this surfer girl has done. With a love for the ocean and a passion for staying active in as many water sports as possible, Vanina excels in stand up paddle surfing, longboarding, shortboarding, and tandem surfing. Well-versed in anything ocean related, this influential wahine is gracing everything from the podiums to the magazines to the line up; Buena suerte to you Vanina on your 2013 endeavors!
5 words that describe living in Hawaii:
Waves, sunshine, beauty, poke bowls, and aloha.
Hef
f
Favorite local surf spot:
Pupukea / Gas Chambers on the North Shore
Favorite surf spot abroad:
Sayulita, Mexico
Greatest achievement:
“My greatest achievement in surfing would have to be being on the World Tour and making it to the podium in some of the events.”
On competitive surfing:
Most known for stand up paddle surfing and racing, Vanina is also an acclaimed longboarder and competitive surfer in most other
categories. However, when it comes to surfing aggressively, Vanina says she just likes to have fun. “I think not being a real competitive surfer kind of hurts me because some of the girls can be really competitive. But I think just surfing out there and catching some good waves is going to prove yourself.”
Toughest Competitor:
“In stand up paddling I’d have to say Candice Appleby and another girl from Brazil are the top competitors right now in the Stand Up World Tour, they’re definitely some girls to look out for.”
Favorite influential surfer(s):
“The Beach Boys of Waikiki have really helped me. They tell me what to do and what to work on and they’ve helped me get to where I am now.” Vanina also admires anyone who is just “good in the water, good with the
Continued on Page 62
GMO March in the Islands
Every Saturday this past March, safe food activists and GMO protestors marched on five different Hawaiian Islands in an attempt to evict Monsanto, an agrochemical, genetically engineered seed company. Featuring Dustin Barca and Walter Ritte, the March in March protesters carried flags and signs that read, “No More GMO”, “Save Hawaii Stop GMO”, and “Stop Poisoning the Aina” among many other statements. Targeting Kamehameha Schools, who leases out the land to Monsanto, activists rallied down central town streets, with shouts of “No More GMO” echoing through the crowd. Hawaii is taking a stance against the GMO testing in its land, and Freesurf is too. Be part of the action and get informed!
Garrett Pulls Out of Billabong XXL
Intova Giveaway at Pipe Pro Jr.
The North Shore Surf Shop Pipe Pro Junior dealt out waves that ranged anywhere between 4 to 8 throughout the
Industry Notes
Rivaling last year’s 78-foot wave that claimed the Billabong XXL Awards, Garrett McNamara’s even bigger wave seemed up for contention for this year’s contest. Garrett’s arguable 100-foot wave was ridden in Nazare, Portugal in January 2013 and has sparked the attention of mainstream media. However, GMAC has recently announced that he will not be entering the contest for personal reasons. “I don’t ride for Billabong, and now a beer company is sponsoring it,” Garrett explained. “The beer is really what I’m standing against ‘cause I wouldn’t want to influence one kid to drink.”
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Chippa to Fox
Australian surfer Chippa Wilson joins Fox’s team of surfers, which includes the elitism of Bruce Irons, Ian Walsh, Damien Hobgood, Keanu Asing and Bede Durbidge. “I’m excited to be a part of the Fox family”, said Chippa. “The surf program is really strong. I’m looking forward to designing surf apparel over the years and being a part of this new chapter. It feels so good to have a new logo on the nose, that’s for sure! It feels like I can finally get out there and do something”. Congrats Chippa!
Upcoming Hawaii Surf Events
April 13th-14th, 20th-21stHASA event, Haleiwa Beach (Ali’i)
April 25-28ndHSA Ala Moana Bowls (State Championship)
May 4,5-11,12HSA Haleiwa, Ali`i
May 18,19-25,26T & C Surfer Mag Grom Contest HSA Sunset Beach
August 3-4HSA Queens
contest. For juniors standing in the 4-foot tall range, these waves at Pipeline are no small feat. Intova, a Honolulu-based digital sports camera sponsored the event with a giveaway. 12-year old Makana Pang won a brand new Intova camera for his fearless efforts and the title “Youngest Charger” of the event.
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If you haven’t heard the music of RootHub yet it’s about time you did. RootHub, also known as Greg Williams, is a singer/songwriter with a background that is all his own. He grew up splitting time between friends and family in Los Angeles, New York, and Hawaii. After a stint building guitars for a well-known guitar maker on the West coast Greg decided to move back to Hawaii full time to pursue his love of performing music. His self-titled EP was so well received that he toured supporting it throughout the US mainland and the Hawaiian Islands for close to a year. He describes his sound as “life music.” His guitar work is heartfelt and precise and his voice has a whiskey warmth that will certainly
Music Root Hub
win you over. Much of his inspiration has come from time spent in the ocean or the mountains of the Hawaiian Islands. The Kalalau Trail of the Na Pali Coast has been a particular influence in his songwriting. Greg has spent weeks at a time living in the lush valleys of Kalalau gathering inspiration for his music.
For his latest project RootHub invites you to enjoy a new release for each season of 2013. Over the course of the year he will creatively utilize traditional and social media in a way that allows the listener to interact with the artist on a new level. Live shows, videos via social media, and each new release will invite his listeners to get on board and look around to experience through his words and voice the beauty our world has to offer. This project will culminate in a full-length album that will be available as a box set, tying together an entire year of creativity through the eyes of RootHub. If you’re on Oahu you might catch him playing at Surfer, The Bar, on the North Shore, Indigo, in Chinatown, or at Ward’s Rafters, in Kaimuki. Check YouTube for some fantastic original videos. You can also follow RootHub at www.roothub.com, on Twitter at twitter.com/RootHub, or on Facebook at facebook.com/RootHubMusic.
By Jordon Cooper
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ocean, respects the ocean, and people who are going to be a good role model to me.”
Goals:
“Being on the World Tour and making it to the podium in most of the events. And traveling a lot and making it to the finals… “I definitely want to go to college in California and study art and design, and business and marketing. And hopefully one day start my own bathing suit line or clothing line.”
Currently working on:
“Getting more aggressive, doing more aggressive bottom turns and coming up to the top, hitting the lip a little harder. Really just making my surfing more fluid.”
Favorite surf movie:
“Endless Summer” because I just love the way they travel around the world in search of perfect waves, that’s something I’d really like to do too.”
Last words for the Freesurf audience:
“Everyone should get out in the water at least once a day and have fun out there.”
Recent Accomplishments:
• 2nd place in Women’s Division of the Standup World Tour’s Hawaii stop (2012)• Received Most Inspirational Paddler at 2012 Battle of the Paddle• 1st place in the Women’s Stand Up Paddle surf contest at the 2012 China Uemura Surf Classic in Waikiki• 1st place in the Girls Division at Battle of the Paddle, California 2011• 1st in the Girls Division at Battle of the Paddle, Hawaii 2011
Sponsors
RoxyStarboardCoopKaenon
She Rips Continued
Vanina Walsh
Most of the time I go to jujitsu and just surf right after.”
Where has surfing has taken you?
“I’ve been to the Mentawais for a boat trip, which was super cool. Australia we were camping and surfing. Just came back from New Zealand where we did a camp and surf trip also. I go to California for almost every summer now for the contests, like Nationals and Surfing America.”
Where do you see yourself in five years?
“I see myself trying to chip away at the WQS, hopefully try to make the WCT, maybe doing some pro juniors in between.”
What is your biggest accomplishment?
“It’s probably my 3rd at Explorers Super Groms at Nationals in 2012. Because it’s over the whole nation, and for me, that’s a pretty big feat to even just make the finals in a national competition, and better yet get third. I was super stoked on that.”
Any last words for the Freesurf audience?
“Make sure you follow your dreams. If you have a goal never give up, because sometimes it can be really hard, but you got to just push through it.”
Recent accomplishments:
• 1st at 2010 NSSA Regionals Open Mini Groms• 1st at 2012 NSSA Regionals Open Mini Groms• 3rd at 2012 NSSA Nationals Explorer Super• Holds a Yellow Belt from Master Mike Fowler
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Grom Report Continued
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Last Look
With the international contingent constantly growing in the lineups on the North Shore, look for more new faces on great waves. Japan’s Masatoshi Ohno on a Pipeline beauty. Photo: Tony Heff
