visitor guide - national park service · weather in glacier bay can change quickly over the course...
TRANSCRIPT
Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve Summer 2008
V I S I TOR GU I DE
Bears............................page 17
Boating Guide.............page 20
Trails...........................page 28
� Visitor Information
toGlacierBayNationalParkandPreserve.ItismypleasuretowelcomeandinviteyoutodiscoveroneofAmerica’spremierwildernessareas.Convincedofitsuniquecharacter,in1925PresidentCalvinCoolidgeusedauthoritygrantedtohimbytheAntiquitiesActtocreateGlacierBayNationalMonumentto:protectthescenicbeautyofglaciers,geologicallandformsanddiversityoflifethatissoabundanthere;provideforscientificresearch;andallowyou,theparkvisitor,toexperienceandlearnaboutthisspecialplace.
ThroughanactofCongressin1980,thenationalmonumentbecameanationalpark,andatthattimepreservelandswereadded.Today’sNationalParkandPreservetotalsalmost3.3millionacres.Inadditiontoitscaptivatingwildlife,glaciers,andunsurpassedscenery,GlacierBayisacknowledgedashavingaworld-classmarineecosystem,whichhasreceivedinternationalrecognitionasbothaWorldHeritageSiteandBiosphereReserve.
IamhonoredtohavetheopportunitytobeGlacierBay’snewsuperintendentandfeelprivilegedtolivealifededicatedtopublicservicethroughanagencythatistaskedwithpreservingthenaturalandculturalheritageofournation.Collectively,theseplacesandtheirstories–betheyhappyorsadstories–bindournationtogetherandmakeuswhoweareasAmericans.
Thisguideoffersmanyideasforexploringthissuperlativepark.Wewelcomeyourquestionsandcomments,andappreciateyourinterestandhelpincaringforthisextraordinaryplace.Itis,afterall,yournationalpark.
Haveawonderfulvisit!
CherryPayneSuperintendent
WelcomeVisitor Information
ExploringBartlettCove...........................................3
ManagingforWildness...........................................4
GlacierBayasHomeland........................................5
Glacier-MakingWeatherandRecycling...............6
Tides...........................................................................7
Glaciers..................................................................8-9
Park History....................................................10-11
Science in the Park
InvasivePlantManagement.................................12
BearResearch........................................................12
TheAcousticWorldofWhales...........................13
Wildlife
WildlifeViewing...............................................14-15
Life’sNoPicnic.....................................................16
Bears..................................................................17-19
Boater and Camper Essentials
ParkRegulations..............................................21-21
BoatingInformation.......................................22-24
WhaleWatchinginWhaleWaters......................25
CampingInformation....................................26-27
BartlettCoveTrails.........................................28-29
Trip Planning.....................................................30
Junior Ranger Activities.............................31
Emergency Information.......................back
Table of Contents
FairweatherProduced and Designed by:
Park Coordinator: Fawn Bauer
Contributors: Allison Banks, Fawn Bauer, Bill Eichenlaub, Chris Gabriele, Margaret Hazen, Wayne Howell, Tania Lewis, Gus Martinez, Ingrid Nixon, Whitney Rapp, Rosemarie Salazar, Maya Seraphin, Lewis Sharman, Arch Thompson, Chuck Young.
Special thanks to the following photographers: Alex Andrews, Fawn Bauer, Tom Bean, Dave Bohn Collection, Bill Eichenlaub, Mark Jefferson, Fritz Koschmann, Tania Lewis, Jim Luthy, Dave Mills, Sean Neilson, Rosemarie Salazar, Ellie Sharman, Chad Soiseth, Jamie Womble.
Printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks
The Fairweather is published by the Alaska Geographic Association in cooperation with Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. It is funded by revenue generated from Alaska Geographic bookstore sales.
©Alaska Geographic
�
Exploring Bartlett CoveIf you just have a few hours...Visit the National Park Service Visitor Center:OnthesecondflooroftheGlacierBayLodge,youwillfindtheInformationDeskisopendailywithbooksandavarietyofexhibitsthatexplorethewondersofGlacierBay.DuringthattimebooksandeducationalmaterialsfromtheAlaskaGeographicAssociationareavailableforpurchase.
Catch a film: TheNationalParkServiceshowsseveraldifferentfilmsdailyintheAuditorium.
TreasuresoftheGreatLand: Alaska’sNationalParks(22min.)GlacierBay:ForeverWild(18min.)GlacierBay:BeneaththeReflections(28min.)
Walk the Forest Loop Trail: Goonyourownorwitharanger.Dailyranger-ledwalksmeetinthelodgelobbyanddepartforthis1.5-hourwalk.Seetraildetails,page28.
Go for a beach walk: Seetraildetails,page29.
Take in an evening program:Joinarangerintheauditoriumforapresentationaboutthepark.
If you have a half day...Hike to the Bartlett River:Seetraildetails,page28.
Rent a bike:StartattheGlacierBayLodgeandpedaltowardsGustavus.
Explore the intertidal zone at low tide.
Morning Discovery Hike: Joinarangerforamorninghike.
Take an evening cruise:Goonadinnerwhale-watchingcruisefromtheGlacierBayLodge.
If you have a full day...Cruise the bay:Thisall-dayboattripuptotheglaciersshouldnotbemissed!Seethelodgefrontdeskfordetailsandtopurchaseyourticket.Binoculars,extrafilm,andwarmclothingarehighlyrecommended.
Hike to Bartlett Lake:Seetraildetails,page28.
Go for a paddle: ThereareseveraloptionsforkayakingaroundBartlettCove.TakeaguidedkayaktriporrentyourownfromGlacierBaySeaKayaks(advancereservationsappreciated).
Become a Junior Ranger:KidscanvisittherangerattheNPSInformationDesktopickuptheirfreeJuniorRangerActivityBook.Seepage31fordetails.
Get the Latest Schedule of EventsPleaseseetheNationalParkServiceVisitorCenterInformationDeskintheGlacierBayLodge,
thebulletinboardinfrontofthelodge,ortheVisitorInformationStation(VIS)nearthepublicdockforupdates,deskhours,andeveningprogramtopics.
Visitor Information
� Visitor Information
Managing for WildernessTheoverwhelmingmajorityofvisitorstoGlacierBaycomeinboats—bothlargeandsmall.Parkmanagersdefinehowmanyboatsshouldbeinthebayandhowtheyshouldoperateinamannerthatpro-tectstheparkresources,wildernesscharacter,andvisitorexperience.
Theparkbegantomanagevesselsinthelate1970s,whenconcernsarosethatmarinetrafficmightadverselyaffectendangeredhumpbackwhalesthatfeedinthebayduringthesummermonths.
In2003,theNationalParkServicecompletedanenvironmentalimpactstatementthatlookedatvesselnumbersandpotentialimpacts.Privatecitizens,scientists,businessoperators,stateandlocalgovernmentsaswellasotherfederalagenciestookpartintheprocess,whichdeterminedhowvesselswouldbemanagedforthenext10to15yearsinGlacierBayNationalPark.ARecordofDecision,signedinNo-vember2003,documentsthedecisiontomodifyvesselnumbersandoperatingrequirements.Newregulationsimplementingthesechangeshavebeenpromulgatedandareinplace.
Someissuesdecidedintheprocessinclude:
Cruiseship,tourboat,andchartervesseloperationswillcontinueasinthepastwithspecificquotas.Thenumberofcruiseshipspermittedtoenterthebaywillstayatnomorethantwoperday.ThetotalnumberofshipsallowedentryJunethroughAugustcouldin-creasefrom139to184.Suchadecision,however,wouldonlybemadebasedonrecommendationsbyascienceadvisoryboardcomprisedofexpertsinsuchareasasthemarineenvironment,airquality,wil-dernessvalues,noiselevels,andrecreation.
Newregulationswillreflectchangesregardingvesselspeedsandtravelrestrictionswhensignificantnumbersofhumpbackwhalesareinthebay.
Privateboatersshouldfindthevesselpermittingprocessmuchsimplerwithalargerallocationofpermitsavailableonshortnotice,andmoreflexibilitywithenteringandexitingthepark.
Managementofnationalparksisanongoingprocess.WeencourageyoutotalktoarangerorvisitourwebsiteformoreinformationonissuesaffectingGlacierBayNationalParkandPreserve.Getinvolved.Afterall,thisisyournationalpark.www.nps.gov/glba
�Visitor Information
Glacier Bay as Homeland
ImaginethatyoucanholdGlacierBayinthepalmofyourhand.Itissmoothandround,aboutthesizeofalargeegg.Itisheavy,precious.Slowlyyoubegintopeelbackitslayers,itsmeanings.Thefirstlayer,worldheritagesite,comesoff.Next,youpeelawaythelayerforthebiospherereserve.Youarenowlookingatthelayerforthenationalparkandpreserve.Gentlyyoupeelthataway.Nakedandvulnerable,wildernesstremblesinyourpalm.Asyoumarvelatthebeauty,thefragility,somethingcatchesyoureye.Yourealizethatbyholdingthelanduptothelightjustso,youcanseeanotherimagedistinctyetintangibleasthemorningmists.Thisnewimagerevealstheessenceoflifeforagroupofpeople,theHoonahTlingit.
TotheHoonahTlingit,GlacierBayisnotonlytheplacewheretheyoncelived,hunted,fished,collectedeggsandberries.Itisthecenterfromwhichtheygaintheiridentityaspeople—theirspiritualhomeland.
ThemodernvillageofHoonahisinPortFrederickonIcyStrait.Traditionally,fourHoonahTlingitclansoccupiedterritoriesinandaroundGlacierBay.WhenGlacierBaybecameanationalmonumentin1925,itsbordersencompassedmuchofthetraditionalHoonahTlingithomeland.NewfederallawsseverelycurtailedNativeactivitieswithinthemonumentboundaries.SobeganapainfulperiodofHoonahTlingitandNationalParkServicerelations.
Buttimehasbroughtsomehealing.Inrecentyears,theNationalParkServicehasmaintainedanopendialoguewiththeHoonahTlingitandhasactivelyencouragedthemtoreturntotheparktocarryouttraditionalactivitiesthatarecompatiblewithcurrentregulations,suchasberrypicking.TheparkhassponsoredboattripsforHoonahschool
childrenandelderstocomeintothebaysotheyouthsmaylearntraditionalwaysofknowingintheveryplacethatfiguressoprominentlyintheirspirituallives.
YouwillfindtheHoonahTlingitpresenceinandaroundBartlettCove.TheseaotterhuntingcanoeondisplaynexttotheVisitorInformationStationwascarvedintheparkin1987byateamofNativecarvers.LookfortwoTlingittrailmarkerscarvedintolivingsprucetreesnearGlacierBayLodge;oneonthetrailleadingdowntothedockfromthelodgeandtheotheralongtheForestLoopTrail.Thesecarvingsserveasremindersofancienttiestotheland.
Ultimately,wewillallcarrywithinusslightlydifferentversionsoftheessencethatisGlacierBay.Wemayguarditcarefully.Fromtimetotime,wecantakeitouttoholdinourpalm,toadmireandsharewithothers.Carefullypeelingbackthelayersofourexperience,wewillrediscoverthewonderswefoundtobesacred.Andifweholdituptothelightjustright,itmightrevealsomethingmore.
� Visitor Information
Glacier-Making WeatherGlacierBayhasamaritimeclimate,heavilyinfluencedbyoceancurrents.Theresultismildwintertemperaturesandcoolsummertemperaturesnearsealevel.Summervisitorscanexpecthighsbetween50º-to-60ºF(10º-15ºC).Wintertemperaturesrarelydropintothesingledigits,withaveragenighttimelowsinthemid-20sandhighsintheupper-30s.
BartlettCovereceivesabout70-75inchesofprecipitationannually.Youmayfindyourselfthinkingit’sallcomingdownduringyourvisit.April,May,andJuneareusuallythedriestmonthsoftheyear,whileSeptemberandOctobertendtobethewettest.Allthismoisturehelpstocreatethelushtemperaterainforestsofthelowerbay.
Keepinmind,theseareweatherconditionsatsealevel.Upinthemountains,conditionsaremoreseverewithcoldertemperaturesandmoreprecipitationthattakestheformofsnow.It’sallthatsnowfallingyearafteryearthatgoesintocreatingthemagnificentglacierswelovetosee.
What to Wear?TheweatherinGlacierBaycanchangequicklyoverthecourseoftheday,especiallyifyouaretravelingintothebay.Dressingappropriatelywillenhanceyourtripbyallowingyoutostayoutintheelementsandmakethemostofwildlifeandglacierviewing.Remember:it’susuallycooleronthewaterandnearglaciers.
Inevitably,conductingbusinessinthismodernworldrequiresusingresources.Operatinganationalparkisnodifferent.Throughcreativeplanningandcooperativeefforts,however,parkmanagersareseekingwaystoreducetheimpactsthatcomewithoperations.
ParkmanagersareworkingcloselywiththeGustavusCommunityLandfilltocomeupwithaholisticwastemanagementplanfortheareatorecycle,shareresources,andavoidduplicatingefforts.
Tofacilitatetheprocess,parkofficesandhousingareasareprovidedwithseparatereceptaclesforpapers,plastics,metals,glass,compostables,andnon-recyclables.
Receptaclesforcampers,boaters,andotherparkusersarelocatedneartheVisitorInformationStation.Thisinitialseparationhelpsmakeitpossibleforupto65percentofwastegeneratedinday-to-dayparkoperationstoberecycledorreused..
Over95percentofthepark’ssolidwasteissortedandshippedtoJuneauforprocessing.Aluminum,paperproducts,steel,and#1and#2plasticsgoontorecyclingcenters.Locally,foodwastefromtheparkandthelodge,woodchipsandbrushfromdownedtreesandclearingarecompostedintotopsoilforthecommunity.Compostedsewagesludgeisusedasfertilizer.Anyglassyouthrowawayintheparkwillbepulverizedintosmallnon-sharpparticlesandusedtostabilizeroadbeds.
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
How can you help?PleaseseparateyourwasteintotheappropriatebinsneartheVisitorInformationStation
locatedbythepublicdock.
Thank you!
�Visitor Information
ThetidalfluctuationsinGlacierBaycanbeashighas25feet.Thismeansthatonemomentyoumaybe
standingonthebeachlookingatmudflatsstretchingoutfor100yardsandhourslaterthewaterislappingatyourtoes.Orworse:oneminuteyou’vepulledyourkayakuponshoresoyoucanenjoylunch,butyouwakeup30minuteslaterfromyourpost-lunchnaptoseeyourkayakfloatingaway.
Tidesresultfromthegravitationalpullbetweenthesunandthemoon,andtheirrelationshiptotheearth.As
thesethreecelestialbodiesareconstantlyinmotion,theamountofgravitationalpullvariesandthetidelevelschange.Becauseit’scloser,themoonhasthestrongestinfluenceonthetides.Itsgravitationalattractioncausesthewatersurroundingtheearthtobulge.Itbulges
onthesideclosesttothemoonduetogravitationalpull.Thebulgeontheoppositesideoftheearthisduetocentrifugalforce.
ThereareusuallytwohighandtwolowtidesdailyontheWestCoast.Thetimesforhighsandlowsshiftabout50minuteslateronconsequentdays.Thismeansifhightideisat9:00a.m.oneday,itwillbehighatabout9:50a.m.thenextday,around10:40a.m.thenext,andsoon.Localconditions,suchastopography,alsoinfluencethetidesandthecurrentstheygenerate.TheentrancetoGlacierBayisnarrow,yetagreatdealofwatermustrushthroughthatopeningtwicedaily,creatingcurrentsinSitakadayNarrowsasstrongassevenknots.
Toseethisincredibleforceinaction,walkdowntothewater’sedgeaboutanhourafterhighorlowtide.Fixyourgazeonashellorapieceofseaweedandwatchhowitsproximitytothewater’sedgechangesinjustminutes.Besuretokeepthatinmindwhenyoudecidetoenjoyanafter-lunchnaponyournextpaddlingadventure.
Tides
You hardly need to spend
more than six hours in
Bartlett Cove to realize
that there is something
interesting going on with
the tides.
� Glaciers
Rivers of IceAglacierisbornhighinthemountains,wheretheonlyprecipitationthatfallsissnow,andthesnowthatfallsdoesnotmelt.Aslightdepressiononthemountainsidecatchesthissnow.Yearafteryear,thesnowflakespileup.Soonthesheerweightofthisvastaccumulationpressesdownonitself.Thesnowcompresses.Theflakeschangeshapeandfuseintoice.Eventually,theweightoftheiceistoomuchforthedepressiontoholdagainstgravityandtheicebeginstoflowdownhillseekingequilibrium.Nowthatit’smoving,it’saglacier.
Likeariver,theglacierflowsdownthemountainchoosingthepathofleastresistance.Asitmoves,itincorporatesrocksintoitslowerlayers.Theseacquiredrocksgrindawayatthebedrock.Intime,theglacialicewillcarvedeepvalleysinthemountainside.
Whentheicereacheslower,warmerelevations,itbeginstomelt.Eventuallythelossthroughmeltingisgreaterthanthesupplyoficeflowingdownthemountain.Theglacierceasestomakefurtherprogress,thoughthebodyoficeisstillmovingdownthemountain.Atthispoint,theglacierislikeaone-wayconveyorbeltmovingiceoutofthemountainsintothevalleys.
Glaciologistshaveidentifieddifferenttypesofglaciersbasedontheircharacteristics.Forexample,aglacierthatremainsconfinedwithinvalleywallsisavalleyglacier.Ifitflowsoutofthevalleyandspreadsout,it’sapiedmontglacier.Ifitsimplydropsoutofthevalley,it’sahangingglacier.ButthetypeofglaciermostfolksinGlacierBayareinterestedinisthetypethatendsinthesea:thetidewaterglacier.
Comparedtoglacialice,seawateriswarmandhighlyerosive.Wavesandtidesworkawayattheunstableglacierface,causinghugechunkstocalveorbreakoffintotheocean.
Barringsignificantclimatechanges,aglacierisinaconstantstateofrenewal.Newsnowwillcontinuetofallinthemountainbasintoreplacethesnowthathascompactedintoiceandbeguntoflowdownhill.Thelengthoftimeittakesforasnowflakethatfallsinthemountainstoemergeattheend,orterminus,ofaglaciervaries,dependingonthespeedatwhichtheglacierisflowing.Scientistsestimateiceyouseeatthefaceofthepark’sglacierstobearound200yearsold.
Blue Ice, White Ice
“The Master Builder chose for a tool, not the thunder and lightning to rend and split asunder, not the stormy torrent nor the eroding rain, but the tender snowflake, noiselessly falling through unnumbered generations.”
—JohnMuir
If you’ve ever played with a prism in the sunlight, you know that natural light is made up of all the colors of the rainbow.
Eachcoloroflighthasaspecificwavelengthandcertainamountofenergy.Colorssuchasredandyellowhavelongwavelengthsandconsequentlylowenergy.Butblue,withitsshortwavelengths,hashighenergy.
Glaciericeismadeupoflarge,tightlypackedicecrystals.Whensunlighthitsglacierice,theiceactslikeaprismandseparatesthelightaccordingtoitswavelength.Lowenergycolorslikeredandyellowareabsorbedbytheice.Bluehasenoughenergytoreflectouttooureyes.
Ifthesurfaceoftheglaciericebecomesweatheredoriftheicecontainsmanyairbubbles,thebluelightbecomesdiffused.Theiceappearswhite.
�Glaciers
The Ice Is MeltingTheEarth’sclimateischanging—andfast!Climatechangeisreal,andtheworldwillbedifferentbecauseofit.TheincreaseinglobaltemperaturehasaffectedalmostalloftheglaciersinAlaska.Theglaciershavethinnedsignificantly,andmoreimportantly,therateofthinningisincreasing.
WhatdoesthefutureholdforGlacierBay?Assumingglobalwarmingcontinuesatthepresentrate,theglacierswilllikelycontinuetomelt.Warmertemperatureswillalsochangetheenvironmentalconditionsforthepark’swildlifeandplants.Forexample,springandfallmigra-tions,suchassongbirdsandhumpbackwhales,mayoccurearlierintheyear.Speciesdistributionsandthemixoforganismswillchangeasrangesarepushednorthward.
Glacialmeltingandawarmingocean(waterexpandswhenwarmed)willcontributetosealevelrise.Fortunately,though,GlacierBay’sshorelinesareunlikelytobeinundated.Asthepark’sglaciersmeltandremovetheirgreatweightfromtheland,theEarth’scrustwillslowly“bounceupward”tocompensate.This“isostaticrebound”shouldmorethankeepupwithrisingsealevel.
Thenexttimeyouarenearsaltwatertakeagoodlookaround.Youcanbeguaranteedthatthenexttimeyouvisit,itwillbedifferent.TheEarth’sclimateischangingandGlacierBayiswarming—howwillthesechangesaffectyou?
Glacier
GrandPacific
JohnsHopkins
Lamplugh
Margerie
McBride
Muir
Reid
Riggs
HeightAboveandBelowWaterline
60-180feetabove0-60feetbelow
250feetabove200feetbelow
150-180feetabove10-40feetbelow
250feetabove50-100feetbelow
200-250feetaboveest.300feetbelow
30feetabove0feetbelow
>20-130feetabove0-10feetbelow
20-90feetabove0feetbelow
Width
2miles
1mile
.75miles
1mile
.5miles
.5miles
.75miles
.75miles
Length
34.5miles
12.5miles
16miles
21miles
12miles
12.5miles
9.5miles
14.5miles
Flow Rate(infeet)
1-4feet/day350-1,200feet/year
10-15feet/day4,000feet/year
2-3feet/day1,200feet/year
6-8feet/day2,000feet/year
15-20feet/day5,000-7,000feet/year*
.5feet/day150feet/year*
1-3feet/day800feet/year*1-2feet/day600feet/year*
Status
SlowlyReceding/Thinning
Advancing/Thickening
StabletoReceding/Thinning
Stable
RapidlyReceding
SlowlyReceding/Thinning
SlowlyReceding/Thinning
SlowlyReceding/Thinning
*EstimatedfiguresprovidedbyDr.DanLarsonoftheCRREL.
10 1110 11
A Brief Timeline of Glacier Bay Prehistoric to present: Tlingit Indians and their
ancestors had both permanent and seasonal settlements in much of what is now Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Several hundred years ago at the end of the Little Ice Age, advancing glaciers forced the Tlingit people to abandon their villages and move to Hoonah, across Icy Strait from Glacier Bay.
Today, many Hoonah Tlingits still regard Glacier Bay as their ancestral home, and feel a special connection to it. See page 5.
1877 Lieutenant C.E.S. Wood hired Tlingit guides to hunt mountain goats in the St. Elias Mountains. Convinced instead to hunt in Glacier Bay, he encountered Tlingit seal hunters encamped in several places. Wood was the first outsider to record a detailed account of native life, wildlife and scenery.
1778 Captain James Cook of the H.M.S. Resolution names Mt. Fairweather. His crew includes George Vancouver and William Bligh.
1750 The Little Ice Age is ending and the glaciers begin to retreat.
1794 Captain George Vancouver of the H.M.S. Discovery and Lt. Joseph Whidbey describe Glacier Bay as “a compact sheet of ice as far as the eye could distinguish.” The “bay” is a mere 5-mile indentation in the coastline.
1786 Captain Jean-Francois de Galaup de Lapérouse’s party of the Boussole and Astrolabe while in Lituya Bay described the native peoples they met there, and the cartographers created the first detailed maps of park landforms. The expedition met tragedy on July 13 when 21 sailors were lost in a tidal wave at the mouth of Lituya Bay.
1750 1800 1850
Park History10 11
10 1110 11
1900 1950 2000
1879 Guided by Tlingit Indians from Fort Wrangell, John Muir enters the bay in a dugout canoe accompanied by a Presbyterian missionary named S. Hall Young. Glacial ice has retreated into the bay 40 miles since 1794.
1890 Muir makes his third visit to Glacier Bay, this time constructing a cabin at the base of Mt. Wright. He makes extensive observations of glaciers and explains the interglacial tree stumps.
1916 William S. Cooper, ecologist from the University of Minnesota, arrives in Glacier Bay to begin a study of plant succession. He returns five more times between 1921 and 1966.
1953 Canadian Pacific Steamship Company brings the first modern cruise ships into the area.
1980 The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act is signed into law. Glacier Bay becomes a national park. Preserve lands are added. The new park and preserve total almost 3.3 million acres.
1992 Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve — together with Wrangell/St. Elias National Park (Alaska), Kluane National Park Reserve (Canada) and Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park (Canada) — becomes part of a 24-million-acre World Heritage Site.
1880 Guided by a Tlingit Indian named Tyeen, John Muir and Young return to visit Taylor Bay, Dundas Bay and what will become known as Muir Glacier. Stickeen, a small dog, is part of the expedition.
1884 Captain Carroll pilots the side-wheel steamer Ancon to Muir Glacier, which will become a popular tourist destination until the 1899 earthquake.
1899 On September 10 a tremendous earthquake centered in Yakutat Bay causes rapid and extensive calving in Glacier Bay, leaving the waters ice-choked and impassable to ships.
1922 Cooper suggests national monument status for Glacier Bay to the Ecological Society of America.
1925 President Coolidge establishes Glacier Bay National Monument on February 26.
1939 A presidential proclamation by Franklin Roosevelt doubles the size of Glacier Bay National Monument.
1966 Glacier Bay Lodge opens.
1986 Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, along with Admiralty Island National Monument, is designated an International Biosphere Reserve.
1995 The National Park Service and Hoonah Tlingits sign a Memorandum of Understanding, establishing a working relationship.
1998-1999 Congress passes legislation regarding the management of commercial fishing activities in Glacier Bay National Park.
2006 About 400,000 people visited Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve.
Park History10 11
1�
Science in the Park
Invasive Plant Management
Bear Research and Adaptive Management
VisitorstoAlaskaexpectoverwhelmingsceneryandwildernessexperiences,andGlacierBaydoesnotdisappoint.However,ifyoulookcloseryouwillnoticeasilentinvasionunderway.AformofbiologicalpollutionistakingrootinGlacierBay’slandscape.
Thirty-threenon-nativeplantspeciesgrowwithinthepark.Unlikelitteringwhereasinglepieceofgarbagemaypersist,oneintroducedplantcanincreaseexponentiallyandaffectlargeareas.Non-native,invasive,alien,exotic,introducedandnon-indigenousaresynonymsthatimplythathumansintroducedaspeciestoalocationwhereitisnotnaturallyfound.Theseintroductionscannegativelyaffecthumanhealth,economics,andtheenvironment.Invasivespeciesarethesecondgreatestthreattoworldbiodiversitybehindhabitatloss.
Since2004researchershaveconductedinventoriesforinvasiveplantinfestationsthenworkedtocontrolthemostaggressivespeciesbypullingordigging.Eachyearover1,000acresaresurveyedand3,000poundsareremoved.Commondandelion,themostwidelydistributedinvasivespeciesinthepark,isthreateningtoinvadeeventheglacialregions.Thespeciesofgreatestconcernisreedcanarygrass;atallgrassthatformsdensestandsandcanexcludenativeplantsandwildlife.Oxeyedaisies,frequentlyplantedfortheirshowyflowers,arealsospreadingquickly.
Helpslowthissilentinvasionbyensuringthatyouandyourgeararefreeofaliens!
KayakersandbearsbothspendmuchoftheirtimeontheshorelineofGlacierBay.Kayakerscook,eat,andcamponbeaches,whilebearstravelandforagealongtheshore.Howcanpeopleandbearssharebeacheswithoutdisturbanceorconflict?
TheparkiscurrentlydevelopingaBear-HumanManagementPlandesignedtodecreasebear-humanconflictsandminimizedisturbanceofbearsfromprimefeedingareas.ResultsfromtworecentbearstudiesinGlacierBayhelptoinformtheplan.
Thefirststudyinvestigatedbearactivityandhabitatat161campsitesthroughoutthebackcountryandcalculatedtheriskofencounteringabearateachofthesesites:73%ofthecampsiteswereratedasmoderateriskofencounter;20%werelowrisk;and7%werehighrisk.
Thesecondstudyexaminedbearactivityandhabitatlevelsintwosectionsofshorelinethathadbeenclosedtocampingforover20yearsduetobearconflicts.ResultsfromthisstudyshowedthattheSandyCoveclosureareawasstillwarrantedduetohighnumbersofbearsandhighqualityhabitat.
OtherclosureareasinwestTarrandJohnsHopkinsinletshaveproventocontainlowlevelsofbearactivityandlowqualityhabitat.Thisareawasopenedin2007adding15milesofavailablecoastlineforcamping.
Science
1�
Whale AcousticsHaveyoueverwonderedhowhumpbackwhalesseetofindtheirwayaroundtherich,siltywatersofGlacierBay?Infact,whalesrelyontheirhearingformosttaskswhereyouwoulduseyourvision:navigation,findingfood,detectingpredators,andsocializing.Humpbackwhalesmakeastartlingvarietyofvocalizationsandliveimmersedinnaturalsoundssuchasthesizzleofrainhittingthesurfaceoftheocean,theconstanthissofwavesbreaking,andthecallsofkillerwhales.Researchsuggeststhatvesselsoundscanbedisturbingtowhalesandpreventthemfromhearingvocalizationsofotherwhales.
Becausetheunderwatersoundscapeissoimportanttowhales,parkscientistsincollaborationwithU.S.Navyacousticianshaverecordedsoundsfromanunderwatermicrophone(a.k.a.hydrophone)anchoredneartheen-trancetoGlacierBaysinceMay2000.Theserecordingshelpdocumenttheextentandeffectsofhuman-causedsounds,suchasthewhineofoutboardmotorsandthethrobofcruiseshipengines.ThisstudyhasdeterminedthattheunderwaterGlacierBayisamuchquieterplacewhenvesselsarerequiredtotravelat13knotsratherthanat20knots.
Science
YoucaneavesdroponlivesoundsfromunderwaterGlacierBayatthelisteningstationkiosksattheVisitorCenterandVisitorInformationStation.Youmayhearhumpbackwhales,killerwhales,harborseals,wind,rain,orvesselengines.TohearwhalesoundsrecordedinGlacierBay,youcanalsovisittheparkwebsiteatwww.nps.gov/glba
1�
Wildlife Viewing
By Land
MooseAlces alcesThelargestmemberofthedeerfamilyisarecentnewcomertothebay.Thefirstmoosewasspottedhereinthelate1960s.Despitetheirtremendoussize(bullscanweigh
1,600poundsandcows1,300pounds),theycanap-pearanddisappearinthickbrushwithsurprisingstealth.Mooseareusuallysolitary,exceptforcowswithcalvesandduringthefallruttingseason.Cowsgivebirthinthespringtooneortwosmall,reddishcalves,thoughusuallynomorethanonesurvives.Acalfwillstaywithitsmotherfortwoyearsbeforethecowdrivesitoffasshepreparestohavemoreyoung.Theirdietincludeswillowleaves,grasses,herbs,andaquaticvegetation.Onlybullsgrowantlers.
Mountain Goats Oreamnos americanusArguablythemostdapperofGlacierBay’smammals,mountaingoatssportthickwhitecoatsofhollowhairs(thatkeepthemwarminextremeweather),accentedbyblackhornsandhooves.GoatsmayhavebeenamongthefirstlandanimalstorecolonizeGlacierBayaftertheiceretreated,comingoverthemountainsfromLynnCanaltotheeast.Theyareathomeonthesteeprockycliffsinthemid-to-upperbay.Thespecialshapeanddesignoftheirhoovesallowsthemtoleapnimblyfromledgetoledgeinsearchofgrasses,herbs,andlow-growingshrubs.Seenatadistance,theyareoftenmistakenforDallsheep,whicharefoundintheInterior.
PorcupineErethizon dorsatumYoumayfindthispricklymemberofthecommunityhighupinacottonwoodtreenibblingtastytenderleaves.Exceptfortheirfootpadsandnose,porcupinesare
completelycoveredwithyellowishfurandquills,whichareactuallymodifiedhairstippedwithbarbs.Athreatenedporcupinewillturnitsback-endtowardthesourceoftroubletopresentanintimidatingdisplayofquillsthatfirmlysuggeststhewould-bepredatorreconsideritsdinnerplans.Thislargerodent(secondlargestinNorthAmericabehindthebeaver)performsabroadrepertoireofgrunts,whimpers,andscreams.Listenforthemintheevenings“talking”tonooneinparticular.
Red SquirrelTamiasciurus hudsonicusIfyouseealittleredflashzippingupatreetrunkorleapingnimblyamongthebranches,chancesareitisaredsquirrel.Theseagilerodentsspendtheirsummerpreparingforwinterbycollectingandstoringgreenspruceconesintheirundergroundcaches.Likeforestalarms,theychatterunrelentinglywhenathreat—likeyou—isnear.Theyareacomedytourdeforcewhentheyharvestdandelionseedheadsorgooutonalimbforasavorygreenaldercone,anditisworthyourtimetostopandenjoy.
Wildlife
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Wildlife Viewing WhentheiceretreatedinGlacierBay,itleftbehindascouredlandscapeofrocksandmud.Intime,plantsreturnedtotheseeminglysterileland.Eventually,animalsreturnedtothelandandwaterswithinthebay.Today,awidevarietyofcreaturescallGlacierBayhomeforatleastpartoftheyear,andthenumbercouldgrowasmorecreaturesfindtheirwaytothisevolvinglandscape.AsyouexploreBartlettCoveorasyoucruiseupthebay,keepyoureyeoutforsomeofthesemorefrequentlyseenmembersofthecommunity.
By Sea
Steller Sea LionEumetopias jubatusLikeallmembersoftheearedsealfamilyOtariidae,Stellersealionscansupportthem-selvesontheirflipperswhileashore,andtheirrearflipperspivot,allowingthemtogetaroundwithsurprisingspeed.
Inthewatertheybecomefluid,executingaseeminglyendlessseriesofunderwaterflips,turns,androlls.Maturemalescanweighalmost2,000pounds,butfemalesaverageonly600pounds.Duringmatingseason,largebullscompeteatestablishedrookerysitesonGlacierBay’soutercoasttocollectharemsoffemales.Unsuccessfulandimmaturemalesoftencongregateathaul-outareaslikeSouthMarbleIsland.Thoughthenumberofsealionsisgrowinginthebay,thepopulationinWesternAlaskahasdecreasedby80percentsincethelate-1970sleadingtothatportionofthepopulation’scurrentlistingasendangered.
Harbor Seal Phoca vitulina richardsiHarborsealshaveadappledgraycoatthatcanbehighlyvariablebetweenindividuals.Athicklayeroffatallowsthemtokeepwarminotherwisechillingconditions.Unlikethesealion,harborsealshavenoexternalearflapandwhenoutofthewater,cannotsupportthemselvesontheirflippers.Onicefloes,theyresembleplumpsausagesthatmovearoundbyscootingontheiramplebellies.Inthewater,theydisplayadmirablegraceastheyhuntforfish.About1,700sealsconvergeonJohnsHopkinsInleteachsummerforpuppingandmating.On-goingresearchintheparkindicatesthatthepopulationintheinlethasdeclined50percentinthepastdecade.
Harbor Porpoise Phocoena phocoenaAtfivefeetlongandabout120pounds,harborporpoisearethesmallestcetaceansinAlaskawa-ters.Oftenseeningroupsoftwototenthroughoutthebay,theyannounce
themselvesbyofferingabriefglimpseoftheirsmalltriangulardorsalfincuttingslowlythroughthewater’ssurfacewhentheycomeuptocatchabreath.Harborporpoisearegenerallydarkgraywithaslight-lypointedface.Theydonotridebowwakes,liketheirrelativetheDall’sporpoise,whicharelarger(6.4feetand300pounds)andresemblesmallorcaintheirblackandwhitecoloration.ThoughDall’sporpoisecanbeseeninthebay,theyaremoreoftenneartheentranceandinIcyStrait.
Sea OtterEnhydra lutrisTheseaotterpopulationinthebayhasgrownfromzerotoover1,200inthelastdecade.Voraciouseatersofthingslikecrabsandclams,theyexertastronginflu-enceontheirenvironmentandscientistsanticipatedramaticchangeswilltakeplaceintheunderwaterworldofGlacierBay.Seaot-tersperformmanyoftheirdailytaskssuchaseating,bathing,andsleepingwhilefloatingontheirbacks.Lackingathicklayerofblubber,ottersinsteadhavethedensestfurofanymammalwithuptoonemillionhairspersquareinch.Generallydarkbrown,theirfacesgetwhiterastheyage.
Wildlife
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You are picnicking alone on an idyllic beach when aboat roars up out of nowhere. It stops just offshorefrom you. Its wake washes the beach, taking away halfyour lunch. People on the boat laugh and talk loudly.They click their tongues to get your attention. Cameraflashes explode. You drop your egg salad and dash offinto the underbrush, anything to get away.
You’ve just experienced what happens to wildlife whenthoughtlessly approached by humans. The effects canbe devastating. Steller sea lions tumble over one anoth-er as they stampede from haul-outs to get into thewater, risking injury and expending valuable energy.Breeding birds flushed from nests leave eggs vulnerableto cooler temperatures and predators. Female harborseals lose their newborn pups among the ice floes whenthey become separated before their maternal bond hasbeen established.
To reduce disturbance to wildlife and protect sensitiveareas, the park has regulations that define the minimumdistance you must keep from animals in Glacier Bay.Some critical habitats are closed to humans andvessels for all or part of the year to allow animals to go about their business.
During your visit, you can help to protect wildlife bydoing the following:
• Know and observe all minimum distances and closures. See Boating Guide, page 24.
• When viewing wildlife, approach and depart slowlyand cautiously, which allows the animal to adjust to your presence.
• Use binoculars or a camera with a telephoto lens so you can view from afar.
• Avoid sudden movements or loud noises, which maystartle animals.
• Don’t approach large rafts of birds. Marine birds tend to gather in large groups for protection during periodswhen they are molting and flightless.
Remember that even if you maintain a legal distance, ifthe animal is reacting to your presence in any way youare too close. Move away and if the animal continues toreact, you should leave the area.
As you admire Glacier Bay’s wildlife, keep in mind thatevery day they struggle to find what they need to eat,reproduce, protect their young, and prepare for winteras they avoid becoming food for others. Indeed, life isno picnic for the wildlife of Glacier Bay.
Wildlife
Life’s No Picnic
1�Bears
BearsGlacierBayNationalParkishometobrown(grizzly)bears,Ursus arctos,andblackbears,Ursus americanus.Blackbearsarefoundprimarilyintheforestedregionsnearthemouthofthebay,includingBartlettCove,whilebrownbearslivemainlyinthemoreopenregionsclosertotheglaciers.
Tellingthedifferencebetweenthetwospeciescanbetricky.Simplylookingatcolordoesn’thelp.Blackbearscanbeblack,brown,blonde,evenblue-gray—asisthecaseoftherarecolorphasefoundinSoutheastAlaskacalledthe“glacierbear.”Brownbearscanbeanyshadefromhoneyblondetoblack.Afewkeyphysicalchar-acteristicscanhelpclarifywhichtypeofbearyouhavespotted:
Black Bears•Straightfacialprofile•Noshoulderhump•Prominentears•Short,curvedclaws•3feetattheshoulder•125toover300pounds
Brown Bears (also called “grizzlies”)•“Dish-shaped”facialprofile•Prominentshoulderhump•Long,straightclaws•3.5feetattheshoulder/upto9feetwhenstandingonhindlegs•Average500to1000pounds
Fishing in Bear Country•Ifabearapproacheswhileyouhaveafishontheline,cuttheline.
•Cleanfishintheriver.Discardanyfishremainsinpiecesinthemid-channelcurrent.
•Keepyourcatchonyouatalltimesinabackpacktoallowforquickretreatfromapproachingbears.
•Neveryieldyourcatchorotherfooditems.
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Be a Smart CamperBothcampersandbearsfrequentthebeachesofGlacierBay.Bearsonlyhavesixtoeightmonthstoacquirethecaloriesandfatreservesneededfortheentireyear,andtheshorelineisessentialforfoodandtravel.Thefollowingguidelineswillminimizeyourdisruptionofbearsandhelpkeepthemwild.
Cooking and storing food•Cookandeatintheintertidalzoneatleast100yardsfromyourtentandfoodstoragearea.•Washcookinggearinmarinewaters.•Bepreparedtoquicklystowallfoodshouldabearsuddenlyapproach.•Keepallfood,trash,andotherscenteditemsinabear-resistantfoodcontainer(BRFC).•Atnight,storeBRFCsandcleancookinggearinbrushorbehindrocksawayfromanimaltrails100yardsfromcamp,notinyourboat.
Choosing a campsite•Avoidareaswithbearsignincludinganabundanceofscat,animaltrails,andchewedorclawedtrees.•Avoidactivesalmonstreams.•Storeyourkayakandpitchyourtentclearofthebeach.•Selectasitethatwouldallowbearsroomtopassathightide.
Control your gear•Keepgeartogether.Themorespreadoutyourgearisthemoredifficultitistodefend.•Tominimizepotentialbeardamagetogear,considerbreakingdownyourcampsitedaily.
Beawareofwhatgoesonaroundyourcampsite.
Be Bear SavvyWhilewalking,hikingorcampinginGlacierBay,youmayencounterabear.Thevastmajorityoftheseencountersdonotresultinhumaninjuryorpropertydamage.Youcanhelppreventinjurytoyourselfortothebearbytakingafewbasicprecautions.•Bealert.•Makenoise,especiallyinwindornearrushingwater.•Chooseroutesthatoffergoodvisibility.•Travelingroupsoftwoormore.•Keepyourpersonalitemsandfoodwithinreach.•Donotpursueorapproachbearsforphotographs.•Avoidstreamswithspawningfish.
Bears
Bears
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The Bear: What You Can Do:
What is your activity and degree of mobility?
You are hiking or kayaking (mobile):• Change your course to avoid bear.• Monitor bear’s movement.• If bear is close, talk calmly to avoid
surprising it.
You are camping or eating (not mobile):• Keep all gear under direct control.• Group together without blocking bear’s route.• Talk calmly to make bear aware of you.• Stand your ground.
• Monitor bear’s movement.• Stand your ground and talk calmly.• Allow bear to pass peacefully.
• Stay together and stand your ground.• Be assertive and elevate your defense: clap
your hands, wave your arms, use noisemakers, such as an air horn or banging pots together.
• Continue to stand your ground.• Use pepper spray if you have it.• Few charges end in contact.
Fight back vigorously. This is likely a predatory attack.
May or may not be aware of you
Moves toward you
Becomes focused on you
Charges
If a bear makes contact
Surprise EncountersA bear may react defensively if surprised at close quarters or defending cubs or food. Its behaviors may include snorting, huffing, jaw popping, and charging. Your safety lies in assuring the bear that you are not a threat.
Stand your ground. Talk calmly to the bear. Attempt to move away slowly. If the bear begins to follow you, stand your ground. If the bear charges, use pepper spray if you have it. If it is a brown bear and makes contact, play dead. Lie flat, face down on the ground, and place your interlaced fingers behind your head. Do not move. A brown bear will often back off once it feels the threat has been eliminated. Black bear attacks are rare and tend to be predatory, so never play dead with a black bear.
If you are in your tent, fight any bear that attempts to enter.
When encountering humans, most bears will run away, approach curiously, appear to ignore the situation or act defensively. By stayingalert, calm, and tailoring your reaction to the bear’s behavior and species,you increase the odds of a positive outcome for both you and the bear.
Close Encounters
Bears
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Boater and Camper Essentials
Ifyouintendtocamporboatduringyourvisit,yourfirststopshouldbeattheVisitorInformationStation(VIS)nearthepublicdock.Duringthesummer,afreepermitisrequiredforallboatingandovernightcamping.Orientations,providedwiththepermit,arerequiredannuallyforallcampersandskippers.Theycoverthefollowing:
• Rules and Regulations • Resource Concerns• Safety Issues • Tides
Backcountrycamperscanalsocheckoutbear-resistantfoodcontainers(BRFC)tousefreeofchargeduringtheirvisit.
Wewantyoutomakethemostofyourvisit.Andwewanttomakesureyoudoitsafelyandwithminimumimpact,sootherswhofollowwillbeabletoenjoythewildnessthislandcanoffer.ItisyourresponsibilitytoknowandobeytherulesandregulationsofGlacierBayNationalParkandPreserve.Ifyouhaveanyquestions,pleaseaskaranger.
Welcome to Glacier Bay
Boater and Camper Essentials
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Boater and Camper EssentialsThefollowingisapartiallistingoflawsandregulationsdesignedtohelpyouhaveasafe,enjoyablevisitwhileprotectingparkresources.Forfutherinformationorquestionsonadditionalregulations,pleaseaskaparkranger.
Feeding wildlifeisprohibited.Allfood,fish,garbage,andequipmentusedtocookorstorefoodmustbecachedinasealedmotorvehicle,vessel(excludingkayaks),building,BRFC,designatedtrashreceptacle,ordesignatedfoodcache.
Firearmsareprohibitedfrombeingcarriedorusedinthepark.Theymayonlybepossessediftheyaremadetemporarilyinoperable(brokendown,barrel/boltremoved,andunloaded).Firearmsmaynotbecarriedinakayakorcanoewhileinthepark.
HuntingisonlypermittedonthepreservelandsintheDryBayarea.Allpersons16yearsandolderarerequiredtoholdavalidAlaskaStateHuntingLicense.
Harvestingthefollowingforpersonalconsumptionoruseisallowed:unoccupiedseashells,alledibleberriesandfruits,ediblemushrooms,clamsandmollusks.Stateregulationsapply.NOTE:EatingclamsandmusselsfromGlacierBayisnotrecommendedbecauseofthepresenceofanaturallyoccuringneu-rotoxinthatcausesparalyticshellfishpoisoninginhumansandcanleadtosuddendeath.
PetsareallowedinthedevelopedareasofBartlettCoveandmustbeonaleashatalltimes.PetsareNOTpermittedontheForestLooporBartlettRivertrails.Nopetsareallowedashoreinthebackcountry.
Sport Fishingbyallpersons16yearsandolderrequiresavalidAlaskaStateFishingLicense,availableduringthesummermonthsatGlacierBayLodgeandsomebusinessesinGustavus.ConsultAlaskaStateFishingregulationswhenpurchasingalicense.
Boater and Camper Essentials
Hypothermia—Killer ColdInthebackcountry,goodraingearisamust.Stayingdrywillhelpyoustaywarmaswetclothingcanwickawaybodyheatandleadtohypothermia—theloweringofthebody’scoretemperature.Hypothermiacankill.Preventionandearlyrecognitionarevitaltosafecamping.Avictimofhypothermiamaynotrealizehisorhercondition,andwilloftendenybeingcoldorneedinghelp.
Early symptoms:Violentshivering,changesinmoodorconsciousness,irritability,cool,paleskin,sloworweakpulse,slow,shallowbreathing.
Advanced symptoms:Absenceofshivering,unconsciousness.
Treatment:Preventfurtherheatloss.Provideshelterfromcold,rain,wetground,andwind.Replacewetclothingwithdrysyntheticclothing.Ac-tivelywarm.Techniquesinclude:
•Wrappatientinspaceblanket,sleepingbag,orgroundcloth.•Wrapwarmwaterbottlesinclothandplaceinthesleepingbagwithpatient.•Provideclosecontactwithanotherwarmperson.•Buildafire.•Feedpatientsugars,carbohydrates,orsweetwarmdrinks.•Keeppatientawake.
DONOT:Givealcohol.Rubormassageaffectedarea.Exposetoexcessiveheat.
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Boater and Camper Essentials
Permits •ArerequiredforprivatemotorvesselsfromJune1throughAugust31. •Arefreeandgoodforsevenconsecutivedays. •Mustbeconfirmed48hoursbeforescheduledentrydateorpermitwillbecancelled.
Toconfirmpermitsortoseeifpermitsareavailable,calltheVisitorInformationStation“KWM20BartlettCove”onmarineband16orphone907-697-2627.Permitapplicationsareaccepted60daysbeforetheintendedentrydateandareavailableatwww.nps.gov/glba
DocksBartlettCoveDock: •Vesselsmaydockforamaximumof3hoursina24-hourperiod.Afterthat,anchoroutbeyondthe white“nowake”buoys. •Dinghies10feetorlessmaydockinthedesignatedareaforupto24hours. •Donotleavevehiclesorequipmentunattendedondocks. •Useonlyslipsdesignatedforyouruse.Seedockbulletinboard.
FuelDock: •DonotleavevesselsunattendedattheFuelDock. •Forhours,callGlacierBayLodgeonmarineband16orphone907-697-4000. •Accesstoshoreviathefueldockisnotpermitted.
Anchorages •Anchoragesdonotcontainmoorings. •Anchorinwaterdeepenoughtoremainafloatatlowtide. •Safetydependsonice,wind,andtideconditions. •PleasedonotraftoranchornexttotheBlueMouseCoveRangerRaft.
*Boatsattheseanchoragesmaynotrungeneratorsoranyothernon-propulsive enginesbetween10p.m.and6a.m.exceptwhenusingawindlass.
AdamsInletBeardsleeEntranceBergBayBlueMouseCove*GeikieInlet
GooseCoveJohnsonCoveNorthFingersNorthSandyCove*SebreeCove
SouthFingersSouthSandyCoveReidInlet*RussellIslandTidalInlet
Boater and Camper Essentials
�� ����Boater and Camper Essentials
HazardsClosures:Duetoanimalactivityorresourceprotection,certainareasareofflimitstoentryandlandingsforallorpartoftheyear.Insummer,someareasareofflim-itstomotorizedvessels—includingsailingvesselswithauxiliarymotorizedpropulsion,evenifnotinuse.Knowandobeyallclosures.SeeBoatingGuide,page24.
CruiseShips:Nomorethan2cruiseshipsarepermit-tedintheparkperday.Theselargevesselscannotturnquicklyandmaytakemilestostop.Donotapproachthemwhentheyarestationaryinfrontoftheglaciers.Donotgetintheirpathanddonotassumetheyseeyou.Watchforlargewakes,thewavesofwhichcanreachthebeachover10minutesaftertheshiphaspassed.
Currents&Winds:Currentsof6to8knotsarenotuncommon.Travelingwiththetides,ratherthanagainstthem,canhelpyourideorpaddleeasierandquicker.
Caution:Theforcesoftides,currents,andwindcancombineincertainplacestocreatedangerousconditions.UsecautioninSitakadayNarrows,BeardsleeEntrance,McBrideEntrance,BergBay,andthenorthshoreofAdamsInlet.Plancrossingsofwidechannelscarefully.Bettertochangeyourrouteorwaitforconditionstosubsidethantoriskflippingyourboat.
Ice:Glacierscancalvefromaboveandbelowthewaterline.Underwatertonguesoficecanbreakoffandshoottothesurface.Wedonotrecommendapproachingtidewaterglacierscloserthan1/4mile.
Tides:Secureboatsandgearwellabovehightideline.Bewareofextremespringtides.
Weather:Mid-MaythroughSeptember,weatherforecastsandsatelliteimagesareposteddailyattheVisitorInformationStationbulletinboard.Rangersbroadcastthemarineforecastandotherimportantnoticesovermarineband16atapproximately8:45a.m.and5:45p.m.daily.
EmergencyCallrangers“KWM20BartlettCove”onmarineband16.NOTE:radiocoverageinthebayisspottyandcellphonecoverageisnon-existent.
Ifyouhavenoradio,wavealargebrightlycoloreditemtowardapassingboat.Tiethisitemtoastick,oar,orkayakpaddleforgreatervisibility.
ReportallemergenciestotheVisitorInformationStationnearthepublicdockortotheBlueMouseCoveRangerStation.
Maps and ChartsTopographicMaps:TrailsIllustratedMapbyNationalGeographic1:250,000USGSQuadrangles1:63,360
NauticalCharts:17300StephensPassagetoCrossSound17318GlacierBay17302IcyStraitandCrossSound17301CapeSpencertoIcyPoint16762LituyaBay
Toordermapsandchartscontact:AlaskaGeographicP.O.Box140Gustavus,AK99826907-697-2635
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Boating Guide
Boater and Camper Essentials
�� ���� ��Boater and Camper Essentials
Whale Watching in Whale WatersTominimizedisturbancetoendangeredhumpbackwhales,GlacierBayNationalParkandPreservehasdevelopedsomeofthemostprotectiveboatingrulesvisitorswillfindanywhere.Becausethepark’smissionistoprotectandpreservethesemagnificentcreatures,wemaintainstrictoperatingandspeedrestrictionsincriticalwhalehabitat.
Rules for All of Glacier BayAllvessels,includingkayaks,mustNOT:
•Operatewithin1/4nauticalmileofahumpbackwhale.•Pursueahumpbackwhalebyalteringcourseorspeedinamannerthatresultsindecreasingadistancelessthana1/2nauticalmilefromahumpbackwhale.
What do you do if a whale suddenly appears in front of you? If your vessel is accidentally positioned within a 1/4 nautical mile of a humpback whale, immediately slow your vessel to ten knots or less. Don’t shift into reverse unless impact is likely. Then, carefully direct or maintain your course away from the whale until at least 1/4 nautical mile separation exists.
What Are Whale Waters?ThesearespecialareasinGlacierBaythatrequireadditionalspeedandoperatingrestrictions.Thesecriticalar-easchangedependingoncurrentwhaleactivityinthebay.SeeBoatingGuideonpage24forareasanddatesthatregulationsareineffectandcheckattheVISforadditionaltemporaryrestrictionsbeforesettingout.
Rules for Whale WatersMotorizedvesselsover18feetinlengthMUST:
•Maintainadistanceofatleastonemilefromshore.Innarrowerareas,navigateamid-channelcourse(unlessfishingoroperatingsolelyundersail).•Approachorlandonshoreperpendicularly,takingthemostdirectlinetoshore.•Operatewithinspeedrestrictions.CheckattheVISforcurrentstatus.
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Camping Information
In the BackcountryClosureAreas•Certainpartsofthebayareclosedtocamperseitherpermanentlyortemporarilyduetoanimalactivityandresourceprotection.AskVISrangersforclosureupdates.Youareresponsibleforknowingandobeyingtheseclosures.SeeBoatingGuide,page24.
CampsiteSelection•Chooseasitethatshowsfewsignsofwildlifeusage.•Avoidcampingnearotherparties.•Donotcampwithin100feetofastreamorlake.•Pitchyourtentondurablesurfaces.•Trytokeepyourcampandactivitiesasinconspicuousaspossible.•Leaveyourcampsiteasyoufoundit.
FoodStorage•Cookandeatintheintertidalzoneatleast100yardsfromyourtent.•Donotuseyourbear-resistantfoodcontainer(BRFC)asacookingplatform.•Atnight,storeallBRFCsandcleancookinggearinbrushorbehindrocksawayfromanimaltrails100yardsfromcamp,notinyourboat.•Inforestedareas,useofaBRFCisstillrecommended.Youmay,however,hangyourfood.•Foodmusthangatleast10feetfromtheground,4feethorizontallyfromthetreetrunkandatleast4feetdownfromthesupportingbranch.
Water•Allwatershouldbeboiled,filtered,ortreatedbeforeconsumption.•Donotusesoapdirectlyinfreshwater.Carrythewater100feetawayfromthesource.
WasteDisposal•Withina1/4mileofshoreline,eitherremovehumanwasteastrashordepositatleast100feetfromanysurfacefreshwatersourceinaholedugatleast6inchesdeep.•Beyond1/4mileofshoreline,deposithumanwasteatleast100feetfromwatersources,campsites,orwithinsightoftrails.•Burnorpackouttoiletpaper.•Packoutalltrash.
Campfires•Campersareencouragedtousecampingstoves.•Campfiresarepermittedbelowthehightidelineormorethan1/4milefromshore.•Burnonlydownanddeadtimber.DONOTburninterglacialwood,whichcomesfromtheexposedremnantsofancientforestsfoundoncertainbeachesaroundthebay.Askarangerfordetails.
Hypothermia•Coldcankill.Knowthesignsofandtreatmentforhypothermia.Seepage21.
Boater and Camper Essentials
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In Bartlett CoveAfree,walk-intentcampgroundislocatedatBartlettCove.YoumustregisterforasiteattheVisitorInformationStation(VIS).WheelbarrowsareavailabletohelphaulgearbetweentheVIS,dock,andcampground.Pleaseobservethefollowing:•Storeallfood,trash,andscenteditemsinthecachesprovidedinthecampground.•Cook,prepare,andeatfoodonlyintheintertidalzonenexttothecampground.•DisposeofwasteintoappropriatebinsneartheVIS.•Firesarepermittedonlyinthedesignatedcampgroundbeachfirering.
4 CheckInIfyoufailtocheckinasscheduled,rangerswillbegintosearchforyoustartingwiththeareasindicatedonyourpermit.
Boater and Camper Essentials
GlacierBayhasamyriadoftastyberriesthatripenoverthesummer.Butthereisoneberryyoudonotwanttoeat.
Baneberry,Acraea rubra,amemberofthebuttercupfamily,isaptlynamed.“Bane”isderivedfromanAnglo-Saxonwordmeaning“murderous.”Allpartsoftheplantaretoxic.ItiscommonaroundBartlettCoveontheedgesofforests,alongstreambanks,androadsides.
Thestalkgrowsfromtwotofourfeethigh.Itsthin,heavilyveinedleaveshavedeeplytoothededges.Inthespring,itproducesaclusterofsmallwhiteflowersabovetheleaves.InJulyandAugust,hardshinyberriesappear.Thesecanbeeithercandy-applered(mostcommon)orwhite.
Matureberrieshaveadarkspot,whichhasearnedthemthenicknameof“doll’seyes.”Butthereisnothingplayfulaboutthisplant.Ingestingoneberrycancausenumbnessinthemouthandtongue.Thepoisoninthreeberriesisenoughtokillachild.Sixberrieswilleffectivelyshutdowntherespiratorysysteminadults.
Thebestruletofollowifyouaresamplingwildplants:ifyouaren’tsurewhatitis,don’teatit.
Baneberry Caution —Deadly Temptations
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You’veprobablydoneafairbitoftravelingtogethereandmayhaveahankeringtostretchyourlegs.TherearethreemaintainedtrailsneartheGlacierBayLodge.Allofferrelativelyeasywalking.
Forest Loop Trail Distance: 1 mile loopTime: 30 min.- 1.5 hoursTakesyouthroughboththetemperaterainforestandthebeachenvironmentsofBartlettCove.Beginyourwalkeitherinfrontofthelodge(justofftheparkinglot)orsouthoftheboatrampbetweenthe
These Boots Were Made for Walkingdocks.Thetrailsurfacevariesbetweendirt,gravel,andboardwalk.Twobenchesandviewingplatformsalongthewaybegyoutopauseandtakeinthesightsandsoundsofthespruce/hemlockforest.Rangersleadaguidedwalkalongthistraileveryafternoonat2:00p.m.Meetnearthelodgefrontdesk.
Bartlett River TrailDistance: 4 miles roundtripTime: 4-5 hoursMeandersalonganintertidallagoonandthroughthespruce/hemlockforestbeforeemergingandendingattheBartlettRiverestuary.Watchforcoyotes,moose,bear,andriverotteralongthebeach.Ducks,geese,andotherwaterbirdsconcentrateintheintertidalareaduringmigrationsandmolting.Salmonrunuptheriverinthelatterpartofthesummer,whichat-tractshungryharborseals.
Bartlett Lake TrailDistance: 8 miles roundtripTime: 7-8 hoursBeginwalkingontheBartlettRiverTrail.About3/4ofamiledownthetrailatasignpost,thelaketrailwillbranchoffandbegintoclimbthemoraine.Thistrailislessmaintainedsousecautiontonotlosetheroute.Thechatterofredsquirrelswillaccompanyyouasyouwindyourwayoverandaroundmoss-coveredbouldersandlichen-coveredtreesbeforereachingtheshoresofBartlettLake.Duringthisfull-dayjourney,youmayberichlyrewardedinsolitudeandperhapseventhecallofloons.Bringwater,lunch,andraingear.
Boater and Camper Essentials
��Boater and Camper Essentials
ManygullsandshorebirdsraisetheiryoungontheshorelinesofGlacierBay.Ifyouplantocamporhikealongthebeaches,youwillmostlikelymeetnestingbirds.Nestsandyoungbirdsalongtheshorelinecanbeverydifficulttospotbutthebehavioroftheadultbirdscanwarnyouthatyouaretooclose.
Gullsandternsdefendnestsandyoungbycirclinganddivingdownonintruderswhilecallingorcrying.Shorebirdsmaydefendtheirnestsitesby
callingloudly,creepingalongpretendingtobeinjured,orflutteringandcrouchinginfrontofyou.
Ifyoucomeacrossbirdsactingasiftheyhaveanestoryoungnearby,backawaylookingwhereyoustepuntilthebirdsstopreactingtoyou.
Beach Walk Thelongstretchofshorelinesouthofthedocksallowsforapleasantstroll.Lowtiderevealsamyriadofintertidallife.(Pleasewalkcarefully!)It’saterrificplacetoseeland,shore,andseabirds.FreetidetablesareavailableattheNPSInformationDeskinthelodgeandattheVisitorInformationStationnearthepublic-usedock.
Beach Walking
Let Someone KnowNomatterwhereyouwalk,alwaysletsomeoneknowwhereyouaregoingandwhattimeyouexpecttobeback.
A Slip of the FootDuetotheamountofmoisturehereinGlacierBay,walkingcanbetricky.Wetdecks,woodenwalkways,logs,rocks,andtreerootscanbeveryslipperyandcreatetrippinghazards.Muddypathwayscanbeslick.Tominimizerisk,wearsturdyshoeswithgoodtractionandusehandrailswhereveravailable.Watchwhereyouaresteppingandtakeyourtime!
Moose MustsIfyouencounteramoose,usecaution:
•Increasethedistancebetweenyouandthemoose.•Getbehindatree.•Changeyourroute.
Toavoidcloseencounters,makenoisewhileyouhike.
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ConnectingpeopletoAlaska’sparks,forests,andrefugesisatthecoreofAlaskaGeographic’snonprofitmission.AlaskaGeographicoperates38bookstoresinpubliclandsacrossthestate,connectingpeopletoAlaska’srichnaturalandculturalheritage.Throughbookstorerevenues,membershipdues,hands-oneducationprograms,andcontributionsfrompeoplelikeyou,AlaskaGeographicplaysavitalroleinsupportingAlaska’sspectacularwildplaces.
Tofindoutmoreortobecomeamember,stopbytheAlaskaGeographicbookstorelocatedintheparkvisitorcenterorvisitourwebsiteatwww.alaskageographic.org
AlaskaGeographicAssociation750WestSecondAvenue,Suite100
Anchorage,AK99501907-274-8440ortoll-freeat866-AKPARKS
www.alaskageographic.org
Discover Alaska Collector SeriesPins,patches,hats,andotherproductsfeaturing
thisuniqueGlacierBaydesign.ExclusivelyatAlaskaGeographic.
Park PartnersPlanning Your TripTofindthesepublicationsandmore,visittheAlaskaGeographicBookstoreintheVisitorCenterororderdirectlyfromtheGlacierBaybranchbycalling907-697-2635.
Frozen in MotionbyKathrynHocker
Findoutwhyiceisblue,howglaciersgallop,andwhichtoolsscientistsusetouncoverancientcluesfromtheiceinthisnewlookatAlaska’sdynamicglaciers.
$8.95
Glacier Bay National Park AlaskabyMarkKelley&SherrySimpson
Colorphotographsandessaystellthefascinatingstoryofthepark,itswildlifeandplants.$20.00
Glacier Bay: Beneath the ReflectionsbytheNationalParkService
ExplorethestrangeandintriguingunderwaterworldofGlacierBayinthisaward-winningfilm.AsaDVDbonus,enjoythepark’sclassicfilmForever Wild.DVD27minutes
$14.95
Glacier BayTrailsIllustratedTopoMapbyNationalGeographic
Waterproof
$10.00
Alsoavailableon-lineatwww.alaskageographic.org
Trip Planning
�1Jr. Ranger Activities
Become a Junior RangerIfyouarebetweentheagesof6and12,youmaywanttobecomeaJuniorRangerduringyourparkvisit.StopbytheVisitorCenteronthesecondfloorofthelodgetopickupaJuniorRangerActivityBook.Whenyouhavefinishedtheactivities,bringyourbooklettoarangerandyouwillbeawardedaspecialbadgethatmakesyouaGlacierBayNationalParkandPreserveJuniorRanger!
Here’sanactivitytogetyoustarted.Ifyouneedhelp,pleaseaskaranger.Goodluckandhavefun!
Answers:
Across 1. Riversofice.
2. Themostcommonweatherforecastin SoutheastAlaska.
3. Abrown____maybeseenforagingforfood alongtheshore.
4. GlacierBayNationalParkisinthestateof_____.
5. Becauseitissocompressed,iceinaglacierlooks thiscolor.
6. TheHumpback_____cangrowtobe50feetlong.
7. Thispersonwearsmostlygreen,andabighat,and willanswerquestionsyouhaveaboutGlacierBay.
8. Theharbor____climbsoutonicebergswhenit hasitsbabies,whereitissafefromtheorcawhale, itsmainpredator.
Down1. A_____willdefenditsnestandyoungby circlinganddivingdownonintruderswhile callingorcrying.
2. Thismountainrangecontainsthehighest mountaininthispartofAlaska.
3. Thisisthewhitestofthetidewaterglaciersyou findinTarrInlet.
4. Thisblackandwhitewhalelovestoeatfish.
5. Glacial_____,groundpowdery-finebythe glaciers,shouldnotbeusedtobakebread!
6. ManypeopleseeGlacierBayfromoneofthese small,paddledboats.
7. An_____,commonlyseeninGlacierBay,may seembaldbecauseofitswhite-featheredhead.
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Emergency Inside the Park:NationalParkServiceBartlettCove907-697-2651 (24-hour)KWM20BartlettCoveonmarineband16
Emergency Outside the Park:GustavusEmergencyResponseDial911
Other Medical Assistance:GustavusCommunityClinic42DollyVardenLane,Gustavus907-697-3008
Youareinanisolatedarea.TheclosesthospitalortraumafacilityisinJuneau,30minutesbyair.Weatherconditionsmaydelaymedicalevacuationsorotheremergencytransport,sometimesfordays.Tohelpensureyouhaveasafevisit,usecaution.
•Respectboundaries,especiallyaroundconstructionzones.•Watchfortrafficondocks,roadways,andinparkinglots.•ReportanyhazardoussituationstotheVisitorInformationStation.•Evenforshortexcursions,alwaysletsomeoneknowwhereyouaregoingandwhattimeyouplantobeback,thensticktoyourplan.
Emergency and Medical Assistance