vegetable production · heirloom or modern varieties. 2 know how. know now. determinate vs....
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Vegetable Production
Vaughn Hammond
Extension Educator
University of Nebraska –Lincoln
Kimmel Education & Research Center
402-873-3166
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Tomatoes
Determinate vs. Indeterminate
Disease Resistance
Heirloom or modern varieties
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Determinate vs. Indeterminate
Determinate
varieties that grow to a fixed size
majority of the fruit ripens together
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Indeterminate
Grows until frost kills it
Sets new fruit as long as it is growing
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Resistance
The ability of a plant to overcome completely or to
some degree the effect of a pathogen or some other
damaging factor
Verticillium wilt---Vt
Tobacco Mosaic Virus---TMV
Fusarium Wilt---F1 & F2
Root-Knot Nematode---N
Septoria Leaf Spot---S
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Varieties
Celebrity---Indeterminate---Vt, F1&2, TMV, N
Better Boy---Indeterminate---Vt, F1, Vt, N
Early Girl---Indeterminate---F1&2, Vt
Rutgers---Determinate---Vt, F1
Beef Master---Indeterminate---Vt, F1, N
Sweet One Million---Indeterminate---TMV, F1, S, N
Grape Tomato
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Tomato Cultivation
From transplants
Plant 2 inches deeper than original soil line
Water in with starter fertilizer
Space 4 ft apart if staked or 5 ft a part if not
Heavy nitrogen users, at 2-3 months---amend lightly
Mulch
Deep watering—keep evenly moist, not soggy
Insects and disease
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Tomato Pests
Stink Bugs, Tomato Hornworm, Spider Mite
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Tomato Diseases
Early Blight
Blossom end rot
Late Blight
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Cucumbers
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Cucumber Varieties
Slicing
Marketmore, Straight Eight, Salad Bush, Space
Master
Pickling
Pickle Bush
Burpless
Palace King, Tasty Green, Jolly Green, Orient
Express
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Cucumber Cultivation
Direct seed or transplants
Hills or rows
3-5 ft between hills
15-18 inches between plants in rows
Fertilize at planting with 1-2 # 10-10-10
Monoecious plants – separate male and female
flowers on the same plant
Gynoecious varieties are special hybrids which
produce predominantly female flowers
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Cucumber Pests & Disease
Cucumber Beetle
Aphids
Spider Mite
Diseases--anthracnose, bacterial wilt, downy and
powdery mildews, mosaic, and scab disease
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Cucurbits Summer Squash
Zucchini---Green-Burpee Hybrid, Yellow-Gold
Bar
Scallop or Patty Pan—Green Starship, Yellow
Sunburst
Crookneck---Yellow-Slick Pik and Zephyr
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Squash Cultivation
Plant when soils temperatures are in the upper 60’s
Plant 1 inch deep
Sprout in 6-12 days
18-30 inches apart in rows or 3 seeds per hill 46
inches between hills
Fertilize when plants begin to blossom
Deep watering
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Insect Pests
Squash bug
Cucumber beetle
Squash vine borer
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Onions
Plant using seed, sets or bulbs
Do best in high organic soils
Very limited root system
Use nitrate based fertilizer rather than sulfur based
If planting by seed space at 1/2 inch and thin to 4-6
inches
For scallions, leeks and garlic plant 2 inches apart
Side dress fertilizer making sure to keep off plant
Good water needed for bulb development
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Short Day vs. Long Day
Short day varieties—11-13 hours of light for bulb
initiation
Long day varieties– 14 hours of light for bulb
initiation
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Soil Test
N, P, K, Ca, Mg
60-80-80 pound per acre of NPK is no soil test
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Water
92% of the bulb is water
1 ½ to 2 inches per week
Reduce 2 weeks prior to harvest
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Soil
Sandy loam and muck soils
High organic matter
pH 5.8-6.6
Friable
Good water holding capacity
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Production
Best yield—Raised beds, black plastic with drip
irrigation
Water and weed free are critical for good bulb
development
4 ft raised bed
4 rows/bed
6” between rows and 6” between plants
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Weed Control
Critical
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Harvest and Curing
Harvest when 50% of plants dry down
Dry to the point where the neck is dry
Cure out of sun – generally 7-10 days
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Potatoes
Cool season crop
Fertile, well drained, high organic matter soils
Wide pH range from 5.0-7.0
75# N applied and incorporated prior to planting
30-40# N applied as a banded top dress as tubers
form
Repeat 2-3 times
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Potatoes
1-2 ounce eye pieces for strong plants
Cure seed pieces prior to planting if possible
Weed control is critical
20 inches of water per year
Do not allow water holding capacity of soil to go
below 65%
Potato tops need to be killed prior to harvest
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Direct Seeding vs. Transplants
Direct Seeding
Longer time to harvest
Less expensive
Easier to get varieties that you want
Transplants
Jump start on the season
Allows to grow crops that we may not have a long
enough season for
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Rows vs. Beds
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Why Plant in Rows? Very uniform and allows for walkway between
Good for larger garden areas
A must if trellising as in the case of cucumbers, peas
and beans
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Why Plant in Beds?
More efficient use of space
Reduces weed population through competition
Reduces soil compaction
Dries quicker
Warms quicker
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Preparation Preparation can take place as soon as the soil is
adequately dry
Best to start the previous fall
If a new garden consider a soil test
Eliminate any ground cover that may be in place
Work the soil as deep as possible using a tiller or
spade
If adding compost or fertilizer, add now
Re-till
Rake out any large clods or rocks
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Bed Preparation
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Extension is a Division of the Institute of Agriculture
and Natural Resources at the University of Nebraska–
Lincoln cooperating with the Counties and the United
States Department of Agriculture.
University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension educational
programs abide with the nondiscrimination policies of
the University of Nebraska–Lincoln and the United
States Department of Agriculture.