USS DBS IOIIRSCA -131

visits

ISTAN'BU·LIq{po

THIS IS A PUBLIC INFORMATIONOFFICE PROJECT

OF THE

U.S.S. DES MQINES (CA-134)

CAPTAIN E.E. GR1~1MCOMHANDINGOFFICER

COMMANDERE. H. WINSLOWEXECUTIVEOFFICER

***LT(jg) J.1ICPAELC. MTI..LERPUBLICINFORMATIONOFFICER

STAFF

R.J. MCILHARGY

***PHOTOGRAPHICLABORATORY

B.L. BRE1'lSTERS. G. ROBERTS

PRINT SHOP'

F.Co GALFORD G. 1fJILSON

P.. CmmnTGHAM

D.A. PERALAD. MAJUTA

R••J 0 MOKRZYCKI

.. ISTANBUL,TURKEY

Historical-

Byaantd.um, Conat.entdnopl,e , and now Esbanbul.,By these names, one of the most famous cities ofthe Near East has been called, each sign:ificant inits own way, each representitave of a civilizationunique during its progress through the centuries 0

Istanbul is the Turk's dream and joyo It isTurkey's largest city, Locat.ec 0 L one of theworld's beautiful natural city sites. For morethat 20 years its population has been at least onemillion. It is truly cosmopolitan, the center ofthe country'~ ~ommercial and cultural life$ and0bvious ~,~,)saroads 01 civilization. A.U AmericanshC:l.veuearu 01" the city, and thousands have visitedit.

The city lies at the apex of Europe and Asia,the two continents within sight of each otheracross the nar-row Bosphorus , An ancient city, itwas first picked up in our history books as Byzan­tium, a co]ony of the ancient Greek free city ofMegara. This was in the seventh century BoC. Athousand years later, in 328 A.D., Constantine theGreat moved the seat of the Roman Empire to thecitYll which he modestly renamed Constantinople,"The City of Constantme."

For more than eleven centuries from this"second founding" by Conat.antdr-e until its captureby the ottoman Turks under MohammedII, the Con­queror.» in 1453, Constantinop~e was the most im­portant city in the world. Up until this time itremained the undisputed center of Greek cultureand scholarship, which carriEd the lamp of civil­ization {ur-ing the Dark Ageso its capture by the

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Turks caused the scholars to seek asylum.in Europ­ean cities3 taking with them Greek culbure andLearrring, This entrance of Greek learning intoEurope found :fertile ground and was a-strong impa-·tus to the Renaissance movementG

In 1922 the ,~nlta.n was deposed and the nextyear:; Mustafa. Kerrlltl$lwhochose the name Atat'q,rk(Fat.her of the Turk.,);) was e.Lect.ed president ofthe Turkish Republico With zeal and force hebegan to Westernize Tuxkey, abolishing ancientmodes of dress and forbidding the wear-Ingof thewe.Ll, knownf.czo 'i'Jomen~along with their newlygiven rights, were encouraged to discard the vei~they were only too eager to comply~ Ataturk alsodecided that all Turks should have last nunss,something new in that C01L.'1try.Haremsand polyga.•.mywer-e abolished, education was lBr,iollal.ized,Western law re.Ipaced Moslemcod~s;, the GregorianCalendar, the 24 hour day, tJh~ old' Roman' f-,cr:Lpt,,)all these things combined to bring about the trAns­formati..on of the newRepj~blic.. 'Ihe capital vtabshifted to' Ankara, but Istanbul remained the prin­cipal city"

Old Istanbul rises on a rounded bill at thetip of Europe3 bounded on the nor-th by the famousGo.IdenHorn, an offshoot of the Boephoruaj on theeast the Bospho~~s itself; &~don the west bythe remainder of the EuropeA.l1~..l;"J,;:t'\{J' Y'elative­ly small comparedwith Asian 'l\lIk'e;yo Onthe otherside of the Golden qorr~ crossea by the floctingCa"lata Bridge anc the newer Atatw:k Bridges isthe merchantis section called (strangely enough)Ga.Lat-a]t.hi.s in burn, leads to the modern areas ofthp smart shops» night clubs, restaurants andhotels" Greater Istanbul stretches along theBosphorus on both the European and the Asiaticsideso

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POINTSOFINTERESTgUponour approach to Ist.anbul» you will no=

tic6 at once the manyminarets of the mosques thathave becomealmost the tra.demark of 'f'llrkeyo Thebuilding of apl.ended mosques and imperial pel.aceegave the ancient metropolis a different look and anew skyline" which has beeomeetched on the mindsof travelers almost as clearly as the skyline ofNewYork" Aubrey de Ve:reonce w.rote~ laTheview ofConstantinople fr~m the sea is the m~st splendedof all the pagearrbe presented to the' humaneye bymetropolitan ~ities of the world~

Palaces and gardens" espe~ially the former"some cases with sumptuous harems» are "of tne ea=senee" of any visit to Ista,nbul.., however shor-t,for the evfdences of Iv palace life!! ..of" 'ottlOlmanTurkey never fail to stir the non=Moslembeholder"There are four" 'Of amazing cha.racber-, . in GreaterI~tanbulQ The Topkapuof old Seraglio is near StoSophi.a" th. DolmaBahce, directly on the Bosph=crus 3 the Yildli~ K;1.'Ql~k$l in a wooded perk abovethat blue ribbon of water.9 and the Beylerbey Pal=:ace9 on the Asi~~ sideo

SIGHTSEEINGThe entire city of Istanbul and its e nvi.rona

are interesting" Local ferry boats provide an ex=cellent ~n~ tnexpensive method of viewing most ofthe ar-eas., 'frip to Princes i Islands with lunch atone of the many good restaurants9 nr a trip aroundthe Golden Horn with a stop at Pierre Lotiis fam=OUB cafe is recommendedfor camera enthusiastse

OTHERPOINTSOFINTEREST

DolmaBahce Sarayi By special arrangementswith consulate (Tues 0

and Frio) (1300=1700)

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Basilica Cistern

Daily except Mon , from1000 - 1630Daily except Sun. from1300 - 1700Any hour 0f the day.

©ome from the ancient temple of Diana at EphesusoMuseum of S-taSophia

The Moaque of Suleirnanthe Hagnificant Any hour of any day

The Palace of Delma Bahee is loeated adja©ent tothe Fleet Landingo Sultan Abdulmecit built thepalace J_fl lS53 to replace the palace where thesultans had lived for 400 yearso Rulers of othercount-rdes visiting Turkey have lived and ent.er­tainea at,this palace during thei.r stayc AtatuI"k»spent his summers hereo Here~ he als© diedo A~lock in the ream where he died stopped at the mo=ment of death» 09059 19 November 19380

The Seraglio occupied by the !urkish Sultans from1400 W 1800» AcDo» contains a large e'§lUeetionofChinese porcelain9 a tremendous number ~f preciousstones» a fine collection of all sorts of weaponsin use till the last century, exquisite old Tur~ish emb~idery~ numerous paintings of sultans9their wi~s and other high state ~fficials» diffe~ent type~ of imperial coachesp huge kitchens andflower gardens where in the eighteenth century",thousands of tulips were planteds and the sultans vfavorite evening sport was t~ watch tall girlsdressed in white toss golden balls to one another»while hundreds of tortoises with lighted ~and1eson their heads wandered slowly among the tulipso

'Rlue MosqueRestored Hosaics ofKahriye Cami Man ~ TV-eo.and Frio from

1000 - 1700The Castle of Seven ~owersand the Church of St. Johnof Studiono

Every day 1000 - 1700

The H~jJpodroFe (Meydani) Any time

Sarcouhagus of Alexanderthe Great (Museum ofAntilluities)

Every day but Mondays9930-1200 : 1300-1700

The Top Kapi Servilio I{useumEvery day but Tues.(ottoman Sultans) 1000-1200 : 1300-1700Tophapi Sarayi Muzisi(1472-1853)

St. Sofia is a wonde r- of Byzantine architecturedatin;~ from the ll~thcent.ury, It was built by10,000 workmen supervised by 100 foremen. It tookfive years and eleven months to build. In asolemn service at the inauguration" Justinian"holding a cross in his hand" said "God be praisedwho has esteemed me wor-thy to complete this work.Solomen, I have surpassed even thee". The dome isacclaimed by ail architects as one of the mest re­markable in the worlda

The Hippodrome is somewhat like a stadium furhorse and chariot racesQ It was started in thethird eenbury by the Roman Emperor Sem·:ml.Servius Q

It was completed 127 year-s Laber- by Constantinethe Greato Today the original level of the Hipp~drame is below ground levelo ,

TURKISH CURRENCY

The Mosque of SuJeiman the Hagnificant is the mostsplendid, best located, and costliest in the city.According to legend1 the columns of the mosque

Turkish coins and bank notes are as folloW58Bronze codris e "Kurus" 1,9 2!.9 5,p 10,9and 25Bank not.ese 2!» 5» 10.1'50,\)100" 500.1'10000Silver "1 Lira" , \

5.4

The legal rate of exchange isLira) to $1000 therefore~imately ll¢

9000 TL (TurkishITL equal to apprcce-

store is located in the basement. A ~lass VIstore and an AFEX grocery store are located onthe mezzanine l~oor with entrance to the left ofthe louuy. Hours of operation are as follo~~g

Conversion Table

ITL100 Krs (Kurus)25 Krs9TL

50 TL100 TL

ll¢ll¢2M10005056

ll.ll

Sunday and 1:vednesdayMonl) TIles,!) Thur and Fri.Saturday

NCO CIUB A modern NeO club is located on the Sthflooro Enlisted men of All grades and their dep­endents may utilize this club•.Hours of operation are as followsgMonday th~j Wednesday 1200 - 2330 hraThursday 1700 ~ 2330 hI'SFriday~ Saturday 1200 = 0130 hrsSunday 1200 - 2330 hI'S

Turkish Lira Dollar Equivalent (approx)

REMEMBER

U 0 S. CURRENCY IS NOT TO BE USED IN TURKEY UNDERANY CIRCUMSTANCES

TAXISThere are ample taxis in Lst.anbul., _ Fares shouldbe the meter reading plus 10%~ More generally,when meten is not used~ the fare should not bemore than five lira per ride, regardless of thenumber of ocCUpants9 for any reasonable distancewithin the c1ty limits.. "1~THENIN DOUBT:>CALL A POLICEMAN TO ARBITMTE .•

TUSLOG FACILITIESLocated in the Kahan BuildJ~ (two blocks south ofthe entrance road to the Hilton Hotel) are thefollowing faeilitie5~AFEX Snack Bar-, Appetizing American food preparedunder sanitary condftions is served in the AFEXSnack Bar in the basement during the followinghours~Daily 0700 ~ 1400 and 1500 - 1900 hours

CANTI--:ENA Fleet Cant.eenusually is ttstablishedunder USO=YMCA and American Colony sponsorship atthe Union Francaise Club near the American Con=sulateo The canteer is available to all enl~dfleet personnel and is usually open from 1600 to2300 each day during the visite Food~ coffee ~soft.drirJcs»dancing and entertainment are avail=able 0 In the past visits» p~otessional entertain=ment was available for an hour show each night.

TELEPHONE NL~ERS

Hilton Hotelo 0 0 •• 0 e 0 o,~0 0 • e 01$.3200Park Hoteloo.ooooooo.ooeo.o444630Pera Palas Hotel ••e ••• e-e • 0 6444001Harbor Police ••••••••••• ooo443452American Hospitalo.o~.8 ••o.4S2266Kahan Bldg (Navy)••ooo•••••4B5535Chief of Police •••o •••••••• 221700

AFEX Exehange. A Moderately stocked exchange

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~ ••.•'.I(AN (O_$OU" ®~ .•..•.RICAN SCIIOOL ® OIIf.$AAMl. l1''''(.4) 'Rbtaw-ants @••.••••.ROO '1n.ain.l{et.d.s"U.:>.I.( @ TUNIS c.wa @!(API""" GYM @II:.O"".,A&..1 @"""4 ®> IIlLroN"

@ C·$O "~.,.c.:nt •., ~ @ Ro6lRT (.OLLE.C,£ @!'•••fL'S ~ ® kONAK 0='@ 0$.0 •Rq:u'-Centu~ ® M~luM OJAHTIQUIT't @ SPOil'S P,lLAt.E ~("'."""" ® $AI'{ ® PUtAPAlU

® ~"'''AL "TlA<W~ O~fIU @·'Uil05W.f"dISLAHIC.UT .sll1iinm~~ •....•.• ~ .. ~ PARK 1I0Ta.D . "",;....

® E;"UC..ENC.Y (.(:tUIA. @ NAVALMUS[UM ® JoIIO(¥. $WIMMI"i6 (LOa @!'""'•.•.•••.• ATLAS ~ ~ ~~ .•.(j) SU.vlC.E UNlEIl (Y'WcA!).~ @ LIPOPOOL @ IkfA.\lAtlSAItAV @ YENiMUf« @

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® GIR.LS COI,..Lf6E5T ".I01M( -- ~@ Tf(.ttHI(..I.lUMIVtsb&ty ® IS14NlUL S." @t.ucsi~~NO 8 OVKH (MAPEL

PRINCES' ISlAHDS~_

SHOPPING

The Grand Bazaar of !6tanbul is beyond eompar~with other- Mediterranean and NeHX"East, Bazaar-a,even those of Damascus and Cairb~ It is a predd.g­Lous Labyrdrrth , all under cover-, . of a multitude ofwares from pure gold,!)literaD.y millions of doHars'WOrth of it in every form of jew-el!"y' (but alas nogold may be legally exported from T'l-'irkeY)9to Atat( a perfume) of roses and r-oee--Leaf11q:u~urs~ t~hand patrrted cer-amf.cs, to meer-schaum mast.er-pdeces ,to Bursa silks and handmade embrodder-Les , to rugsin the thousands,!) and acres of'1"'Urldturethat musthave been brought in by rr~gic$ since there is obv=iously no human means of getting such stuff throughthe Bazaar's tortuous all~ys. However-, prices areextraordinarily high and generally Istanbul is nota. very good pl.a ce to buy 0

EXCEPTIONS

Meerschaum. pfpea , rugs , and silverware. An­~ good'shopping area is Taksim Sq';lare,the TimesSquare of IstanbuL "'-lithfew exceptd.ons a bargain=Lng .pr-oces s should be used when shoppirig ,

The main business section in the city is alongthe Pera (main street),!)where shops are generallyreliable .: In this area , all goods are required byTurkish law to carry price t.ags , and no bargainingis ever done.

In the curio antique shops, as well as in theBazaar-, goods carry price t.l3.gs»but bargaining isstill expelcted and recommended. Thi!!old (CoveredBazaar) is a world famous tourist att~action.Occasionally an excellent· purchase may be madethere e

RESTAURANTS

When you go out to eat$ you should stick tothe better restaura.nts3 since most of them employ

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English-speaking help., The best meal you can buywine and tipping included will cost about $2000"If you go to a restaurant where there is music; theprice will be about 25% higher~

Every country has its own special df ahes, aniTurkey is an enormously interesting country foodwise. You haven't really been to Turkey untilyou've had sis kebab, a dish well known in Americ~It is a delicious specialty, being bits of lamb»with onions ~ tomatoes and so forth» all skeweredand cooked on a rotating grill. Koner kebab isanother spitted array, this one being"of thin ramdslices of meat. Kebab means ahy:'-smallpiece ofmeat, and appears in many fo rms: on the-menu. Dolmameans anything stuffed with rice, pinenuts, cur­rant preserves and meat. These dishes are servedhot O~ sometimes cold with lemon juice» as appe~tizers. Pilva is rice as it is prepared in Turke~buttered and steamed rather than boiled in water.Fish is excellent in Turkey» especially in Istan­bul.. Coffee.\)Turkish styles has little resemblnceto the American variety. It is made from poweredcoffee, which settles as a sediment to the bot=tom of the small cups in which it is served. With~out sugar (sade) it is soaked in honey or sugersyurp, Ekmek kadayif is a kind of bread or "cake~also soaked in sugar and topped with ereamo Turk=ish delight, more of a confection than a dessert»is of course, to be had in Istanbul. This fabu­Lous sweet, called lokum in this land of itsarigi~is no myth.. Lobsters and ste~s are recommended.DO NOT EAT OYSTERS"

Some of the mo~ recommended Turkish dishesareg

Cerkez Tavuguoo Circasian chicken prepairedwith a sauce made of ground nuts and red peppe~highly seasoned.

Karishik Tatlilar... This is a plate of mixed

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Turkish pastriescBaklaveGo A sweet cake with n~tscEkemk Kadayif.,0 Very sweet cake with cream.•

Most populRr of the r~staurants in and aboutIstanbul are the followingg

ISTANBUL HILTON HOTELDIVAN HOTELCORDON HOTELGUNEY PARK 1NORMANDIYA S9PARK MorELSEMIRAMISTAKSIM MUNICIPAL CASINOYEKTA (YAK) Pak Apt..9ABDULLAHiSDEGUSTATIONEKREM YEGENSAYFlYESATOYORDONFACYOKERVANSWYGASKONYALILAR

HarbiyeTaksimTaksimTaksimTaksimTaksimTaksimTaksim'

Cumhuriyet CadD TaksimIstiklai Cad",BeyogluIstlklai Catl",BByogluIstiklai Cad:>Beyoglu

Sal"'kPas 0 Beyot;;luIstikla.iCad~ BeYriJ,gluIstiklai Cad; Beyog'lu

Cumhuriyet Cads HarbiyeCumht!i.riyet·Cadoi)Harbiye

TOOla Parmakkapi,

C1.l1IIlYtll"iyet CadsCumhurlyet Cad»A8ker6~agi Cadi)

Sil"aselvile!'Cadi!Ayazpasa»Aya,zpasa",

ABDULLAh ~S g On the main street in Beyvgluq 4b'locks from Taksim Square dl Food is exee'l lent,~average meal ©Osts about 10 to 15 liraoPARK HOTEL g Dinmg room 0 On the lett hand sidenot falC'beyond tlld cop of the hill .after you Ieavethe Fleet Landing 0 Food is goedj music in theevening~ average meal costs about 10 to 15 liraoREJANSg J'ustoff the main street of Istiklai»Beyoglu on the right hand side going from TaksimSquare past Gala.ta8ar~yo A neon sign ~REJANS=ison the main street" Deli~ious Borsch and beefStroganoff cost about 10 to 12 lirase

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MISrR CARSISI~ On the second floor, just above thedoor to the Spice Bazaar. Good food in Turkishatmosphere 0 Cross Galata Bridge to old Istanbul,follow main street to the right around the mosqueto the stop light \>rhichis in front of the SpiceBazaar. Average meal costs about 10 to 15 liras.PANDELLI'S: (Lunch Only) After crossing theGalata Bridge to the old Istanbul side, turn rightand go down the first narrow street you come to,fo Ll.owit to the equivalent of 3 bl.ocks , Rest.au­rant is on the left. Average cost is about 10 tol51';ras.REX'S or K~DIRO'S Up the Bosphorus about 10miles, near Bupukde~ Fish dinners approx. 10 to12 liras; lobster is twice as much. Several hoursare needed to have dinner in either of ti1esetwo restaurants.

A service charge of 10 to 15 percent is addedto most bills. In addition, it is the custom togive an extra 5 to 10 percent for good service.

The followinr.:restaurants are located about,45minutes drive up the Bosphorus.CAI\1LIBALIK qariyer 62 16 01REKS BuyukdereANDON BuyukdereLIDO Ortakoy - Bebek 41344 46

NIGHT CLUBS

hTAGON'BLEU Istikai Cad, BeyogluKERVAJ\lSARAY Harbiye 47 16 30CORDON BLEU Cumhuriyet Cad, Taksim 41354 03TAKSIM BELEDIYE PAVIYON Taksim 41329 04CLUB X Romonti, Sisli 41344 47HILTON HOTEL MAIDIARAROOF Harbiye4S 32 00SEMIRAMIS Ayazpasa, Taksim 41351391CINAR HOTEL Fener, Yesilkoy 73 13693NORHANDIYA g<) Siraselviler, Taksim44 44 (J7

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HELPFUL·HINTS g

The fol101.n.ne CITesome suggestions "fiich mayprove helpful hi t.ne 'minitiated visitor inIstanbuh

a" One should car~ sufficient change(Kurus) and small bills 2~TL (iki bueuk) and 5TL(bes notes) to pay taxi fares~ tips~ ete" Taxifares within the downtownarea are normally 2!5TLQ Fares from the Hilton Hotel to the AmericanConsulate is 2!TL9 Hilton to Galata Bridge is 5TLand Hilton to the Covered Bazaar is ~!TLe Tipp=ing rates are approximat.e'ly the ~.d.meas in thestates" ioeol) 1. small piece of luggage= 50 1(u:rusl)1 Lar-ge piece = ITL" 50TL luncheon bill :; 'rLo

b" 'I'urkish people also have a great neal ofnational pr-Ide , One should respect this andavoid any remark or action which might offend 0

Following are some liDOiS and OON1.'~Sti8

(1) Do not criticize political.l1 religiousor econom:i,.cbeliefs or priricipleso

(2) Do not say Ataturk' S ll~e disrespect=fullyo Law provides severe" penalty for this vj,=o'l.at.Lon.e

(3) Donot refer to Istanbul as iiConstan=tinople e II

(4) Always remove one IS shoes priorentering a Mosqueo Menshould remove theirand womencover their heads as in a churcho

not walk amongthe rows of worshipperso

tohatsDo

(5) Do not, refer to the people as "Turks"but rather as "Turkish People."

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(6) It, is necessary to remove one1 S hat inhotel Iootn.es- Generally speaki.ngt Observe local.customs and you "fill not be conspd.cuous ,

("1) Never ask a lady to dance withunless you l~ve been properly introducedo

you

(8) Donot expectorate or thro1,v litt.er onthe s'treet or sidev-lalk~ This is illegalo

'q\LIt.aboo ••

Public demonstrations of affection are

Co It is r-ecommendedthat. no one drink thelocal tap watera

d. Eat at first class restaurants to insurethat the food if; fresh and sa.'rlitary& Refrigera­tion facilities 8:('6 very limitedo vlash or peelfruit.ll ete"

eo Practice caution when dri\j~"1g or ",ralkingin traffic.

f. Avoid walY~ngalong poorly illuminatedor sparsely populated areas late at night. Do 11·.}t

engage t.axi.cabs vJhenthe dir'Ver is accompanied bya friend..

IMPORTANTSIGNS~

ERKEKLEREJvlAHSUS

KADI~lARA11AHSUS

APDESTHANE

SIGARAICl~ YA SAKTIR

WOl-fEN

TOILET

NO SMOKING

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ENGLISH-TURKISH EQUIVALENTS J

YES EVET'/

NO HAYIR

UNDERSTAND ME? ANLADINIZ MI

I OON'T UNDERSTAND ANIJJHYORUM

I OONYT KNOW BILHIYCRUMPlEASE LUTFENGOOD BYE GUN AYDINGOOD EVENING TUN AYDIN

H01tf ARE YOU NASn.SINIZ?THANK YOU TESEKKUR NEDIR?

1mAT IS YOUR NAME ISMINIZ MEIIrR

MY NAME IS ISMIN" " DIRlmAT IS THIS BU NEDIR.?HO~'!MUCH? KAC

ltfHERE IS IT NEREDETOO MlJCij MONEY CHOKE PARAHELLe l-fARE-HAABAEXCUSE ME OFFENAIiS1NIZN01.v SHUMDY

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