PaintingFurniture

www.sincerelysarad.com

for 5 differenttypes of paint

TUTORIALSu

hello!I love giving furniture a second chance and new life through paint. Painting furniture is an art, and you will be the artist. My hope is that

this book will give you the knowledge and confidence you need to create something beautiful and perfect for your space.

In this book, I will discuss paintingfurniture using the following types of paint:

• Chalk-Type Paint - page 2• Milk Paint - page 7

• Spray Paint - page 10• Latex Paint - page 13

• Oil-Based Paint - page 16

Regardless of the type of paint used, put a drop cloth under the piece of furniture. I would suggest the thicker canvas drop cloths. Although

they are more expensive, they can be used again and again. Also, wiping down the piece with a product like Simple Green before

painting will clear away any dust or dirt.

I need to mention that if the advice in this book conflict with manufacter instructions, please follow those instructions.

I hope you find as much joy in painting and creating as I do!

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A special thanks to my greatest supporter, Steve. I love you!

Chalk-type paint eliminates the prep work and does not

require stripping, sanding or priming! It adheres to most any surface, and chalk-type

paint dries quickly and cleans up easily with soap and water

since it’s water-based. Chalk- type paint has low odor, is

very durable, and it driesto the flat chalky finishseen on antique pieces.

Chalk-Type Paint

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Chalk-Type Paint How to....

Materials Piece of Furniture Chalk-Type Paint Clear Wax Dark Wax (optional) Paint Brush Wax Brush Lint-Free Cloth

Step One: PaintPaint the entire piece with chalk-type paint. I often use a brush (although for larger areas I sometimes use a small roller), and a little paint goes a long way. Only one coat may be needed, but I almost always find that I need two. Chalk-type paint dries really fast, and it is easy to tell when it is dry. Apply the second coat of paint AFTER the first coat is dry.

After the paint is completely dry, apply two coats of wax using a wax brush (a rag can be used but I find a brush is well worth the investment since it makes the application easier and more even).It is not necessary to wait for the first coat to dry before adding the second coat. Also, for each coat of wax, remember less is more!

Step Two: Wax

The Perfect Color

Chalk-type paint only requires a quick washing of your piece with a cleaner like Simple Green to remove dirt and dust. Chalk-type paint is so great because it eliminates the need for prep work.

Tintable chalk-type paint is available, or pre-mixed paint colors can mixed for the perfect shade!

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Step Three (optional): Dark Wax

Buff the wax using a lint-free cloth. It’s pretty easy to see where you missed wax, so you can touch those places up with a brush or just rub wax in with a cloth. Buffing helps smooth out and remove extra wax.

Dark Wax Tip

Step Five: Sand (optional)For a distressed look, I recommend sanding after applying the wax because of the chalking nature of chalk-type paint. It will make a mess if sanded before waxing. I usually sand the edges and places where normal wear and tear would occur.

If the clear wax is applied BEFORE the dark wax, use the clear wax to erase any dark wax mistakes. Dip the cloth in clear wax and rub away the dark wax.

This step is optional. Dark wax is good to bring out details and give the piece a more aged look. Apply clear wax BEFORE you apply dark wax. Give the clear wax a little time to set before ap-plying dark wax, and go easy on the dark wax. Lightly apply the dark wax with a brush and remove with a lint-free cloth.

Step Four: Buff

Do not feel limited to using wax, but wax does work well with chalk-type paint. However, I would recommend a water-based polycrylic sealer instead of wax for cabinets, table & desk tops, floors and outdoor furniture.

When not to use wax...

Tips for Using Chalk-Type Paint

To begin:

While painting:

While waxing

After painting:

Chalk-type paint is a miracle. There is typically not any prep work (sanding or primer)! Paint over anything: laminate, wood, glass, plastic, and fabric.

1. Apply first coat and let dry (around 30 minutes).2. Add second coat of paint and let dry (another 30 minutes).

3. Apply multiple coats of wax with a brush and wipe off extra (with a lint free cloth).

4. Sand for a distressed look.

Make sure the paint is well mixed. Tip the can over for 30 minutes and give it a good shake.

Clean/dust the piece before painting.

Keep in mind the paint dries very quickly! Do not load the paint brush with paint. The paint is thick.

Quick brushstrokes work best.Most pieces take 2 coats of paint.

In-between coats of paint, put the brushes in baggies.Keep the paint covered. It can thicken when exposed to air.

Use a roller for chalk paint.Chalk-type paint can thicken over time, just add a little water to make it thinner.

Do not overwax! Think about it like applying hand lotion – put on a small bit and massage until it is absorbed.

Use a brush to apply the wax and a lint-free cloth to wipe off excess.USE CLEAR WAX FIRST BEFORE APPLYING THE DARK WAX.

The dark wax adds dimension and age. Use the clear wax as an eraser if too much dark wax was added.

To clean brushes (paint & wax), wash with soap and water. (Dawn dish soap works well!)Buff the piece 24 hours after your last coat of wax if you want a shinier look.

Keep in mind that wax takes awhile to cure. I usually allow the wax to dry a few days before I transport a piece or use a piece.

However, keep in mind that in can take weeks for the wax to completely set.page 5

Painting fabric with chalk-type paint...To paint fabric with chalk-type paint, do the same steps as before only water down the chalk-type paint. This can be done by adding water directly to the paint. When adding water to the paint, I suggest a 1:1 ratio: 1 part paint to 1 part water. Fabric really soaks up paint, so it will not go far on fabric. After the paint is dry,finish with a couple coats of clear wax. The result will feel similar to leather! Also, keep in mind that if your fabric is peeling, cracking or torn, paint will not fix this.

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Milk Paint Milk paint comes in a powder form and provides various beautiful results. Because it is made from

natural pigments, milk paint will leave lighter and darker streaks. Milk paint soaks into wood butreacts completely differently to a piece that already

has a finish and can chip off. The paint will reactdifferently to these surfaces both in color and adhesion.

Milk Paint How to....

Step One: Mix

I have heard of people sealing their pieces with a shellac before painting with milk paint (and/or other paints). Shellac comes either in brush or spray form, and it helps give an even finish. The shellac also helps milk paint stick and adhere. However, I typically use a bonding agent when I want to reduce the chipping on pieces that already have a previous finish.

Milk paint requires mixing. In powder form, it has a long shelf life. However, once mixed its shelf life is closer to a day. Mix one part powder to one part (warm) water. Add more powder (or water) to get the consistancy desired. I have a mini battery operated mixer, and it works well. Mixing by hand is possible, but it is difficult to get all the pigments to dissolve. Allow the paint to sit for some time for clumps to absorb water and help the bubbles to disappear. Also, when starting to paint, mix the paint occassionally sincethe powder will settle at the bottom.

Milk paint doesn’t require prep work on unfinished wood or sealed wood if you want the chippy look. However, do not forget to add the bonding agent to the paint if you want to reduce the chipping. Then, start painting. This paint is thin and drips easily. Use quick strokes and stay on top of the drips. Wait for the paint to dry in-between coats, and I typically do two coats (although there are times where it will require more).

Step Two: Paint

Materials Piece of furniture Milk Paint Clear Wax (or other sealant) Paint Brush Paint Brush Wax Brush Lint-Free Cloth

Bonding AgentOne of the many reasons people love milk paint is for its chippy finish. It was originally madeand used on unfinished wood, but today it is often used on old furniture which has already been finished and sealed. When used on these pieces, milk paint will resist and chip. It can look old in a matter of minutes.

To control the chipping on a previously sealed piece, use a bonding agent. The bonding agent is sold separately, and it is usually suggested to use 2 parts paint to 1 part bonding agent. Chipping will probably still occur, but not to the same extent. Also thicker layers of paint can increase chipping.

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Step Three: SandAfter you are done painting, you can sand the piece. Sanding is great to distress the piece and it helps to smooth out the finish (you will see some dried powder lumps). If there is a lot of flaking, lightly sand the flakes. After sanding, wipe down the piece to removed the dust and paint flakes.

Buff the wax using a lint-free cloth. It is easy to see where wax was missed, so touch those places up with a brush or just rub wax in with a cloth. Buffing helps smooth out and remove extra wax.

Step Four: Wax

Step Five: Buff

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I use wax on my milk painted pieces, but polycrylic or oil can be used. Wax is not as durable as a polycrylic, but it does provide a beautiful finish. Polycrylic has a little more sheen and is much better for highly used pieces (desks, cabinets, etc.). I have never used an oil, but hemp oil is a common sealer for milk paint. The nice thing about oil is that it is food safe.

Spray Paint

Spray paint is quick and easy.

It is much faster than paint out of a can and offers

coverage without brush strokes.

Since there are no brushes to rinse

or buckets to wash, cleanup is

fast! Spray paint is typically oil-

based, and itadheres well to most surfaces.

Spray Painting How to....

Paint Anything!Spray paint works on most surfaces. However, I would not suggest spray painting fabric or anything that will be used to serve food or drinks.

Step One

I have a large collection of spray paint and am a HUGE fan. I call it miracle in a can. Spray paint is oil-based, so it covers almost anything. It’s quick and easy and dries fast. It’s more durable than latex paint and, it has no brush strokes. There are cons - it is expensive, has overspray and needs to be used inwarmer temperatures.

Spray paint outside in a well ventilated area. I usally spray in my garage with the garage door wide open and a large drop cloth to protect my floor. Shake the spray paint can for a few minutes. Wear a paint mask and use a spray paint attachment. It will save your manicure and keep your hand from cramping.

Aim the can away from the item being painting, push down on the nozzle and start spraying. The first spray out of the can can splatter. Move the paint stream to the item being painted, keeping it about 8 inches away. Move back and forth in a smooth rapid motion. Spray LIGHT coats. It is easy to over-spray which causes drips. Spray a little at a time.

Step Two

Step ThreeContinue painting coats after the previous coat has dried. Itypically spray a coat and work on something else for a while. I come back when the coat is dry and spray paint another layer. I do this until I have complete coverage.

PreppingSanding:I rarely sand a piece before spray painting, but if it has a glossy finish, it is probably a good idea to sand first. Also, if the piece needs smoothed out (has flaking), then sanding is always a good idea.

Priming:I also rarely prime, but it will help with adhesion. I find that spray primer can clump which can alter the spray paint finish. Using a brush primer may be the best solution, and use an oil-based primer if your spray paint is oil-based.

Materials Piece of furniture Spray Paint Paint Can Attachment Mask

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Top Coat?I rarely use a top coat unless I want a different sheen. I have used a gloss spray top coat for a glossy look. It will add another layer of durabilty, but it’s really not necessary in my experience.

Temperature?Make sure it’s warm enough to paint. I live in the Midwest, and there are months I cannot spray paint. I would suggest at least 60 degrees but read the label on the can since paints may vary.

Spray light coats of paintThis really is the key to spray painting success. It is easy to want to coat the entire piece with paint, but it will not dry well and will probably drip. Take your time. Do one light coat, let it dry and spray the next coat. Spray paint dries quickly, so you will be done before you know it!

Dealing with dripsIf drips are missed, wait until the paint is completely dry and sand the piece. If I see a drip while it is still wet, I use my finger and rub it in. Let the paint dry, and apply another coat of paint to blend the paint.

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Latex PaintAlso known as water-based or acrylic paint, latex paint is great because it is inexpensive and easy to clean up since it is water-based. Latex paint is inexpensive, it is easy to find,

and the color options are endless!

Latex Paint How to....Latex paint is water-based, so it is easy to clean up. However, you need to make sure you are not painting latex paint OVER an oil-based paint. It will not adhere well. An easy way to check if paint is latex is to dip a cotton ball in nail polish remover and wipe a small area. If the paint comes off, you know it is latex!

Colors!Latex paint comes in a huge assortment of colors. Your options are endless!

Step Two: CleanGive the piece a good cleaning. If the piece was sanded, use a damp rag to remove dust. If not sanded, I would suggest wiping down the piece with a pre-paint cleaner like TSP.

Although priming adds prep work, it will be well worth your time to have a piece that doesn’t chip or peel! If the piece is not primed, make sure it is sanded well.

Step Three: Prime

Step One: SandSanding is a great way to provide a surface your paint will adhere to. However, if your piece is detailed and has lots of nooks, crannies and drawers, then prime instead.

Step Four: PaintThe application of paint determines the look of the paint. Use a foam roller (and foam brushes) for a smoother look and bristle brushes for a more rustic look.

Step Five: SealSeal your latex paint with a polycrylic protective finish. It is water-based (like latex) and it does not yellow furniture over time like some other sealers can.

Materials Piece of furniture Latex Paint Primer Water-based sealant Sandpaper Paint Brush

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Latex Paint Tips:Do not skimp on quality. You get what you pay for.

Buy a quality paint, and I would suggest the paint that includes a primer.

I pour my paint into plastic cups when I am painting with a brush and use paper plates when I’m using a foam roller. They are portable and clean up is easy!

Store your brushes in baggies in-between coats so they do not dry out.

To avoid brush strokes, use a product like Floetrol in your paint. Use Floetrol only for latex paint.

Latex paint works well with paint sprayers - especially since the paint cleans up easily with water and soap.

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Oil-Based Paint

Oil-based paint is very durable thanks toits hard shell. It has a beautiful glossy

finish and adheres well to most surfaces.

Oil-Based Paint How to....Because oil-based paint is fairly messy (it is hard to clean up), I tend to stay away from it. However oil-based paints are very durable and the result is a very hard shell with a beautiful glossy finish. Oil-based paint consists of a base of petroleum distillates, which come from crude oil. It will not dissolve in water.

Step Two: CleanGive the piece a good cleaning. If the piece was sanded, use a damp rag to remove dust. If not sanded, I would suggest cleaning the piece using pre-paint cleaner like TSP.

Step Three: Prime (if not sanded)

Step One: SandSanding before oil-based paint is not as important as it is for latex paint; however, it is always a good idea.

Step Four: Paint How the paint is applied will determine the look of the paint. Use a foam roller (and foam brushes) for a smoother look and bristle brushes for a more rustic look.

Materials Piece of furniture Oil-based Paint Primer Oil-based sealant Sandpaper Paint Brush

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Step Five: SealSeal your oil-based paint with an oil-based protective finish.

Priming takes time, but it will be well worth the effort to have a piece that doesn’t chip or peel! Remember to use an oil-based primer.

Keep in mind that oil-based paint will take forever to dry. It will usually take at least 24 hours for a coat to dry.

Oil-Based Paint TipsDon’t skimp on quality. You get what you pay for.

I pour my paint into plastic cups when I’m painting with a brush and paper plates when I’m using a foam roller. They’re portable and clean up is easy!

Store your brushes in baggies in-between coats so they do not dry out.

Your primer can be tinted which can reduce the amount of paint coats.

To avoid brush strokes, use a product like Penetrol in oil-based paints. This can beadded to both the primer and the paint and it increases paint adhesion at the same time.

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Painting FurnitureFinal Thoughts

This hutch was a mess when I aquired it. The wood was splitting and the finish was poor.

Some people are very anti painting furniture. My response is this: It’s just paint. It can be stripped years from now. And honestly, most of the time the furniture I paint was on someone’s curb (I rescued it from the trash) or taking up room in a thrift shop. I saw its potentional and gave it a second chance.

A side note...

AvoidPainting Family Heirlooms Handmade Pieces Valuable Pieces

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Pros ConsChalk-TypePaint

No prep workShort dry timeThick paint - requires only 1-2 coatsLow odorDurableA little goes a long wayEasy to clean up since it is water-based

Expensive

MilkPaint

All-naturalDistresses wellDepth of color/color variationsGreat for raw wood (soaks in like stain)Powder form has indefinite shelf lifeEasy to clean up since it’s water-based

Needs mixingCan be unpredictableNeeds a topcoat

SprayPaint

Short dry timeNo brush strokesDurable (since it is usually oil-based)Quick clean up

Temperature above 60 degreesExpensiveLimited color choicesRequires a ventilated areaDrips can be tricky

LatexPaint

InexpensiveVariety of finishesEasy to clean up since it’s water-basedFast dryingWill not yellow over timeResistant to fading and peeling

Requires lots of coats of paintStains can easily penetrateLots of prep workDoes not distress well

Oil-BasedPaint

Good stain sealerGreat adhesionFewer coatsVery durableOnce dry, surfaces are easily cleaned

Yellows over timeLong drying timeStrong odor - needs a lot of ventilationClean up requires mineral spirts

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The ideas discussed in this eBook are based on the experience and experimentsof Sara Davis and were done for Sincerely, Sara D. They are to be taken as a guide.

Results cannot be guaranteed. Sincerely, Sara D. cannot be held responsiblefor any successes or failures as a result of the ideas discussed in this eBook.

The eBook was produced and designed by Sara Davis for Sincerely, Sara D. All photography is copyrighted by Sara Davis.

No part of this eBook shall be reproduced, transmitted or sold in whole or in partin any form without prior written consent of Sara Davis: sara@sincerelysarad.com.

Chalk art on cover is by Word for Word Chalk Art: www.etsy.com/shop/wordforwordchalkart.Photo of Sara courtesy of Carpenter Photo: www.carpenterphoto.com.

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Chalk-art on cover is by Word for Word Chalk Art.Photo of Sara courtesy of Carpenter Photo and Design.