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Two Wests & Elliott’s

Dewpoint Propagation Cabinet

Patent Number. 1341958

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INTRODUCTION

The Dewpoint Cabinet is a completely self-contained unit only requiring connection to mains

electricity, providing the ideal environment for the germination of seeds & the fast rooting of cuttings.

Designed to be run continuously throughout the year, it requires only the minimum of maintenance.

The principle of the Dewpoint is that fresh air, saturated with water vapour, is allowed to cool

around the leaves of cuttings & plants, never allowing them to dry out, thus encouraging healthy root

growth.

A thermostatically controlled heating element warms a reservoir of water, through which fresh air is

pumped which then becomes saturated. Just above the water reservoir is a mesh platform onto which the

subjects are placed.

The thin aluminium sides of the cabinet cool the air producing the “dewpoint”. The condensation which

then forms on the sides runs back into the reservoir to be used again.

The top of the cabinet is sealed with three removable, shatterproof, acrylic panels above which are

mounted two, twin daylight fluorescent light fittings producing some 3000 lumens to encourage healthy

growth.

All the electrical equipment is controlled via a clock which allows you to set ‘artificial days’ as well as

‘night’. In the cabinet plants have no means of telling what season or time of day it is so, for example,

Heather cuttings frequently flower one or two months after they are taken & seed may be started into

rapid growth at any time.

For woody plants the lights can be left on 24 hours a day, whereas for soft plants such as Saintpaulia,

Orchids and Tomatoes should have at least 8 hours of darkness for best results.

When the clock is off a small amount of power is still fed to the heating element to maintain a

comfortable temperature.

The Dewpoint Cabinet should be sited under cover where the ambient temperature doesn’t become too

excessive. A garage, cellar or box room are quite suitable but NOT a greenhouse or conservatory.

The cabinet is supplied in kit form with detailed assembly instructions although you may prefer a qualified

electrician to make the final electrical connections.

The hinged lighting lid lifts up to give clear access to the inside of the cabinet allowing you to check levels

and the progress of your subjects.

About every two weeks check the water level - it may be necessary to soak the seed trays.

The cabinet measures approximately 48” long by 24” wide & will accommodate six standard seed trays

having a maximum power consumption of approximately 250 watts.

To sum up, with the Dewpoint Cabinet:

• There is no need for a greenhouse, water supply, sunlight or heat - only an electrical supply.

• Propagation can continue all the year round (Rhododendron seedlings put on 3 years growth in just 9

months).

• Very little ‘weaning’ is required - plants rooted in 3 weeks can be potted up & put outside.

• Winter dormancy can sometimes be broken very quickly (2-3 weeks).

• It can be used to revive flagging plants or for raising specialist subjects.

• Completely trouble-free to run - no jets to block or solenoids to stick & no build up of alkalinity.

If you have any further queries, please don’t hesitate to ring either Peter Bennett on 01246 572400

or John Boultbee on 01246 572404.

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Please check all components before assembly.

Cabinet Components

Code Description Profile Dimensions Qty

A Back Corner Upright 122cm (48”) 2

B Front Corner Upright 107cm (42”) 2

C Length Horizontal 119cm (47”) 4

D Width Horizontal 53.5cm (21”) 4

E Heating Element 117cm x 53cm (46” x 21”) 1

F Aluminium Infill Strip 119cm x 5cm (47” x 2”) 2

G Aluminium Infill Strip 53.5cm x 5cm (21” x 2”) 2

H Plastic Joint Strip 114cm (45”) 2

I Plastic Joint Strip 49cm (19”) 2

J Back Panel White Sheet 120cm x 30cm (48” x 12”) 1

K Front Panel White Sheet 120cm x 15cm (48” x 6”) 1

L Side Panels White Sheet 55cm x 30cm/15cm 2

M Front Retaining Bar 119cm (43”) 1

N Foam Sealing Strip 7m

O Lower Shelf Tray 118.5cm x 54cm (43” x 21”) 1

P Clear Acrylic Panel 54cm x 40cm 3

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Code Description Profile Qty

Hood Components

HA Lighting Hood & Fittings 1

HB Lighting Hood Support 565mm (22 ¼”) 1 x Left – 1 x Right 2

HC Lighting Hood Hinge 1185mm (46 ½”) 1

HD Hinge Support 1185mm (46 ½”) 1

HE Hood Friction Hinges 2

Reservoir Components

RA Plastic Watertight Tray 120cm x 56cm (47” x 21”) 1

RB Support Slats 104cm x 6cm (41” x 2”) 2

RC Galvanised Mesh 1

Air Components

Code Description Qty

AA Air Pump & Bracket 1

AB 4mm Black Air Supply Tube 1m

AC 4mm Perforated Air Tube 3.5m

AD Air Tube Elbow Connector 1

AE Air Tube Tee Connector 1

AF Tube Grommet 1

Electrical Components

Control Box with Thermostat & Timer 1

Heyco Clips 5

3 Core Cable 2m

3 Pin Plug 1

Fixing Components

Square Head Bolts & Nuts 38

Round Head Bolts & Nuts 26

Cropped Head Bolts & Nuts 2

10mm Stainless Bolts, Nuts & Washers 6

Plastic Flanged Washer 4

Stainless Lock Nuts 2

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We recommend you read through these instructions carefully before assembly.

(1) Assembling the Main Frame

(i) Decide at what height you want the lower shelf to be and using a tape measure, mark the inside of

each corner upright, “A” and “B”.

Also make marks at 61cm up from what will be the bottom of the legs.

These marks will act as a reference when positioning the length horizontals.

(ii)

Take the two back uprights and lay them on a flat surface

parallel with each other.

Slide a total of four bolts down each of the inside channels;

two to the first mark and two to the second mark.

Position two of the length horizontals “C” so that the

bottom edge is level with the marks as shown.

Setting the bottom edge to the mark.

?

61cm

(iii)

(iv)

Attach the nuts finger tight only.

Ensure that the horizontals are square to the

uprights and tighten to give you an assembly

as shown.

Repeat the process with the two front

uprights and the two remaining length

horizontals.

You now have the front and rear frames

assembled.

(ii)

(iii)

(iv)

(iv)

A/B A/B

C

C

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The front and rear frames now need to be joined to each other using the four width horizontals “D”

(v)

Lay the rear frame on its back so that the flat side of the length horizontals are facing down.

Slide four square head bolts down the empty channels on each of the uprights so that they are

roughly level with the fixed horizontals already bolted in place.

(vi)

Position the slot in the width horizontal downwards

onto the fin on the length horizontal (step 1) and then

move towards the inside of the upright (step 2).

Locate the two loose bolts into the holes in the width

horizontal.

Step 1

Step 2

(vi)

(vii)

(vii)

Attach two nuts and secure finger tight only.

Square up and tighten fully.

Repeat for the three remaining width horizontals until

all four are secured to the rear frame.

90*

(viii) Offer the front frame and rest the fins into the slots in the ends of the four raised width

horizontals, as below.

Whilst in this position slide four square head bolts down the two remaining empty channels in the

front uprights “B”

Locate the bolts into the holes at the end of each raised width horizontal and secure with a nut.

Square up structure and tighten fully.

Bolts Bolts

D

D D

D

D (viii)

C

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Heated Tray

Plastic Joint Strip

Infill Strip

(2) Assembling the Cabinet.

(i)

Now that the main frame is complete, stand it upright.

Lower the heated tray into the frame so that the cable is hanging loose at the bottom back right hand side.

The trays edges sit on the lip of the horizontal “T” frame.

(ii)

Take the four pieces of Plastic Joint Strip.

With the longest face to the outside, push onto the upper edge of the horizontal “Tee” frame.

The strips need to sit between the uprights so it may be necessary to loosen some of the nuts securing the

horizontal “Ts” and adjust them slightly so that they are a snug fit.

(iii)

With the fold over upper most and to the inside, take the aluminium infill strips and insert the bottom edge

into the top channel on the inside of the Plastic Joint strip ensuring that they are pushed together fully.

Re-tighten any nuts if necessary.

(iv)

Lower the Plastic Watertight Tray to the inside of the Infill Strips.

The lip around the edge of the tray should just sit on the top edges of the infill strips.

Measure out 3.5m (138”) of the Foam Sealing Strip.

Carefully peel back the end of the protective film to expose the glue and stick on to the top of the lip that

runs around tray, removing the protective film as you go making sure the two ends touch each other.

Infill Strip

Plastic Joint

Strip

Heated Tray

Frame

Horizontal Frame

Horizontal

Watertight Tray

Tray

Foam Strip

Foam Sealing Strip

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Bolt Heads to

outside

Bolt Heads to

outside

Back Panel J

Front Panel K

Left Hand Side Panel L Right Hand Side Panel L

(v)

Remove all the protective film from both sides of

the cabinet panels.

Place the two side panels between the back and

front uprights with the 90* fold to the bottom.

This fold sits onto the foam around the top edge of

the watertight tray.

(vi)

Take the back panel and with the two folded ends

inner most, slide down in between the two end

panels.

Locate so that holes in the side panels align with

the holes in the returns back panel.

Secure with six round head bolts and nuts, finger

tight only, with the bolt heads to the outside.

Repeat this for the front panel.

Once all four panels are in position ensure that

they are all pushed out to the inside of each

upright.

(vi)

(vi)

A A

B B

J

K

L

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(viii)

Take the remaining 3.5m of the foam sealing strip and while removing the protective tape, carefully

attach to the top edge of the back, front and two side panels.

(vii)

Take the Front Retaining Bar “M”.

Place a square head bolt and nut into the slot at either end with the nut on the same side as the fold over.

With the fold over facing inwards, align the bolt heads and slide down the channels on the inside of the front

uprights.

The final position of the Retaining Bar is between the inside of the front uprights and the front panel.

The fold over should rest on the top edge of the front panel as shown in the inset below.

Once in position all the nuts and bolts in the panels can be tightened fully.

Retaining Bar M

Retaining Bar M

Soft Foam

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(3) Attaching the Lighting Hood.

(i)

Take the Right Hand Hood Support and insert a square head bolt and nut into the holes at each end.

With the two crop edges uppermost, slide the bolts down the side channels of the front and back

uprights.

Position the top edge of the hood support so that it is level with the tops of each upright and tighten

fully.

Repeat for the opposite side.

The two smaller holes on the central face need to be

towards the back.

HB

A B

D

D

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(ii)

Place two square head bolts and nuts into

the end holes on the lower face of the

Hinge Support Rail “HD” (marked )

Slide these down the back channel

of each of the Back Corner Uprights “A”

HD

(iii)

Attach the shorter side of the Hinge, “HC”, to the back face of the Hinge Support Rail, “HD”

HC

(ii)

(iii)

HE

HA

HB

HC

HD

(iv)

With the wing nuts inner most attach a Friction Hinge,

“HE” to the horizontal face of the Hood Support Rail

“HB”

Use two of the 10mm Stainless Bolts, Nuts and

Washers to attach the pivoted bracket.

Repeat on the opposite Hood Support Rail.

(v)

Position the Hood over the Lighting Hood Hinge, “HC”

and fasten the back edge to the hinge using five round

head bolts and nuts.

(iv)

(vi)

Secure the upper arm of the Friction Hinge.

Take a round Head Bolt and one Plastic Flanged Washer. Feed this through the hole on the side of the Lighting

Hood.

Position a second Plastic washer and secure using the Stainless Locking Nut, being careful not to over tighten.

The Friction Hinges work by tightening the wing nuts. This allows the Hood to be set at variable positions.

HA

HE

(vi)

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(vii)

Carefully locate the four pins at the end of the light tubes into the fittings on the underside of the hood.

The opposite ends of the light tubes are secured by clipping on the clear Perspex tube clamps.

Attach the Control box and the Air Pump to the lower edge of the hinge support rail “HD” using the

brackets provided.

(viii)

Feed the Control box sensor through the larger

hole in the back panel of the cabinet.

This is then secured into the panel using a “Heyco”

clip as shown

Step One.

Pinch the two sections together using pliers

Step Two.

Push the clip into the

hole and release.

(vii)

(viii)

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(ix)

Insert the small rubber grommet into the lower, smaller hole in the back panel.

Push the black 4mm Air Supply Tube onto the fitting on the underside of the Air Pump and allow the

tube to hang down.

Cut the tube to length so that it’s level with the lower hole.

Insert the elbow connector into the end of the tube.

Cut another 20cm/8” length of the Air Supply tube and feed it through the grommet, attaching the

piece on the outside to the elbow connector.

Attach the green “T” connector to the end of the Air Supply tube that’s inside the cabinet.

Connect the length of perforated air tube “AC” to the “Tee” connector in a continuous loop, snaking it

around the base of the plastic water tray.

AB

(x)

Place the two Support Slats “RB” over the tube so that one sits towards the front and one to the back of

the Plastic Tray.

These will hold the perforated tube in position and lift the Galvanised Mesh above the water.

Place the Galvanised Mesh onto the Support Slats.

(xi)

Place the three acrylic panels, with the folded edges uppermost, over the recess of the cabinet

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(4). Wiring the Control Box.

Important.

Please remember, if you have any doubts regarding the connections and fixings contained in the control

box, please consult a competent or qualified electrician.

(i)

Remove the front cover of the control box, being careful not to over stress the wires connecting the timer

and lights to the circuit board. Remove the small pack of fixings.

You will see the five terminal blocks to the lower left of the circuit board as below.

(ii)

Take the 2m length of 3 core cable and strip back the outer protective layer by approximately 2” (50mm).

Cut the neutral and live back by a further 1” (25mm) and then trim all three at the end to expose 3mm of

bare wire.

Connect these exposed wires into the “MAINS” block terminal as follows ensuring that the connections are

correct and secure:

L N

MAINS

L N

LAMP

L N

PUMP L N

HEATER

BROWN LIVE (L)

BLUE NEUTRAL (N)

YELLOW/GREEN EARTH (E)

(iii)

Connect the cable from the Lighting Hood, in exactly the same manner, to the terminal marked “LAMP”.

(iv)

NOTE: the Pump and Heating element are double insulated and do not require an Earth.

Connect the live and neutral cables from the pump into the terminal marked “PUMP”

Connect the live and neutral cables from the heating element into the terminal marked “HEATER”

(v)

When all components are connected, secure the cables into the bottom of the control box using the

Heyco clips. See (3) (viii)

(vi)

Connect the 3 pin plug to the end of the mains cable following the wiring information on the plug.

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(vii)

Also in the pack of fixings are two stems measuring 2 ½” (60mm).

Gently insert the forked end of the stem into the grey inner circle within the blue block and push until

the forks click and locate. Turn the stem fully clockwise.

(viii)

Replace the front cover of the control box over the two protruding stems and secure with the six

retaining screws.

Place a knob onto the end of an exposed stem and gently turn clockwise until the black dot is in line

with the * 30 mark. Once in line, carefully tighten the grub screw on the side of the knob.

Check to see if the alignment is correct. If not, loosen the grub screw and repeat the process.

TIME

5. Setting the Clock

(i)

The switch on the central face has three positions:

On – this switches the heat, light and air pump on and will

override any timed setting

Timer – this will switch the heat, light and air pump on and off

according to the time selected.

Off – this switches the heat, light and air pump off and

overrides any timed setting.

(ii)

Selecting the time.

Gently rotate the outer bezel in a clockwise direction until the correct time of day is exactly between the

two triangular markers. There will be a grinding sound – this is normal

(iii)

Decide at what time you want your cabinet to come on. Push all the switching riders between the

desired ON and OFF time to the outside edge of the face. This will be the “DAY” and the temperature is

controlled by the upper control knob on the front of the control box.

If, for example, you want the cabinet to operate between 8:00 in the morning until 10:00 in the evening

then all the riders between 8 and 22 must be to the outside.

All the riders between 22 and 8 need to be to the inside edge of the face. This will be the “NIGHT” and

the temperature inside the cabinet is controlled by the lower control knob.

Set the switch to the clock

Your Dewpoint Cabinet is now complete & ready to operate.

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OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS

Plug the Control Box into your mains electricity supply, switch on and the amber ‘mains-on’ light will

show.

When the clock is ‘ON’ the lights, air pump & heating element will be operating. The temperature is

controlled by the upper ‘DAY’ control knob.

Select the desired temperature for the cabinet. If the temperature within the cabinet is lower than

the ambient temperature, the “HEATER ON” light will show.

This indicates that power is being fed to the heating element and is therefore heating up.

Once up to temperature the thermostat will automatically switch the power off.

When the clock is ‘OFF’, the only appliance working will be the heating element which will then be

controlled by the lower ‘NIGHT’ control knob.

Usually only a small amount of night heat is required to maintain the dewpoint - the inside slightly

warmer than the outside.

Higher night temperatures may be required if you wish to use the cabinet solely to germinate seeds.

Please refer to the seed supplier’s information regarding the correct or optimum temperature.

Hints on the use of The Dewpoint Cabinet & Siting.

Position your cabinet under cover, slightly away from a wall to allow good air circulation around the

cabinet.

It needs to be somewhere where the temperature does not become excessive. Too hot, too cold or

too variable will affect the performance of the cabinet.

A garage, cellar or box room is ideal as the temperature will be fairly constant and any outside

influence will be avoided.

A greenhouse or conservatory is not a suitable location.

Operation

Once the time programme has been set for the subjects in the cabinet very little maintenance will be

required. Check the water level every two weeks or so together with the growing medium and water

as necessary.

Time Suggestions

It is usual to set a 16 hour ‘DAY’ – all plants can thrive on this day length but for woody plants like

Rhododendrons a 24 hour ‘DAY’ is not unusual.

Plants like Saintpaulias, orchids and tomatoes should have at least 8 hours of darkness.

There is insufficient light for fast growing market garden products such as lettuce.

Although the cabinet is good for the germination of seed light reflection can be increased by

sprinkling perlite or laying strips of aluminium foil onto the surface of the compost.

When seeds have germinated lift them nearer to the light to avoid them becoming drawn or leggy.

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COMMENTS ON THE DEWPOINT CABINET

The following was written by Don Richards, the inventor of the ‘Dewpoint Cabinet’ - we hope you’ll

find his comments on his experiences interesting.

“We gardeners tend to specialise and though I know a bit about heathers I have never won a prize for

vegetables. Perhaps the fullest use will be made of the Dewpoint Cabinet by following the thinking

behind it.

Working long hours as the village chemist my hobby was a garden with more than an acre of heather

planted in great variety. With rather lax morals they bred freely and the commonest weeds were

always more heather’s! Nearly all were rubbish, but now and then a potential winner appears. Before

telling the registrar it needs to be evaluated, and for that several plants are needed, but I have no

spare time.

Mist was looked at and costed carefully. For commercial growers producing thousands of easily

rooted plants it would be the answer but there are snags:

1. The fine mist nozzles are liable to block.

2. The solenoids operated by the sensor sometimes stick.

3. With high amounts of water evaporating the lime from hard water builds up to kill the calcifuges.

4. A fairly sophisticated greenhouse is needed to house it.

Other commercial propagators to be used in a greenhouse had been tried but new cuttings stand

little chance with the wild fluctuations of temperature. Although some look quite impressive a plastic

bag can do anything that they can do. I was not prepared to risk my marriage leaving my wife to take

the necessary action whenever the weather changed - there must be another way.

Elaborate controls are only cost effective in a large commercial greenhouse so I would start with a low

baseline in a cellar and add light, a little heat and a stream of air saturated in water vapour. The basic

principle patented was to saturate the air with warm water vapour and then cool it slightly, as it does

in the top of the cabinet. Drying out, the usual cause of death for cutting’s, was avoided.

Problems were expected in growing plants under such novel conditions, especially from moulds but

there were just no problems. I suspect that the spores are trapped in the film of moisture on the walls

and are washed down into the reservoir beneath. Spore and other infections that might be pumped in

with the air are similarly trapped. In fact the slight positive pressure in the cabinet prevents invasion

as in the best operating theatres!

This led to Dewpoint Cabinets being used for weaning minute young plants. In micro culture and

specialised orchid culture from seed they are grown in sterile agar media in the same way that

bacteria are cultivated. These processes enable commercial quantities of new varieties to be available

in a fraction of the time. Initially when they were first exposed to normal growing conditions they

were lost to moulds and infections but Dewpoint Cabinets enabled almost 100% success.

Trouble was also expected when cuttings and seedlings were first exposed to drying outside. At first

plants were put out on calm days and returned to the cabinet at night but as there was no wilting,

more serious exposure was given. Even though plants had not needed to do it before, ample moisture

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was pushed into the foliage, but there was a curious effect if they were returned. The plant could not

turn off the flow of sap so quickly and leaves would ‘weep’. In some thin leaved plants like fuchsias a

row of cells near the edge of the leaves would burst but otherwise no damage was done.

Cuttings that have rooted quickly can go straight out if temperatures are reasonable but leaves grown

in artificial light, either in the cabinet or growing rooms have never been exposed to ultra-violet light

and may be damaged. Plants with thick leathery leaves are safe enough but those with thin or tiny

leaves (as heathers) can be damaged by sunlight. A handful of grass thrown over them is usually

enough and by the time it dries and blows away they can take care of themselves.

The light, warmth and humidity have proved useful to other interests. One customer found it perfect

accommodation for his pet snake and it is obviously useful as a vivarium. By fitting a more accurate

thermostat another used his for hatching eggs. Without the lights it can also be used for checking

electrical circuits in maximum humidity.

Another found a particularly attractive seedling among his dahlias and was delighted with the speed

he could increase his stock. He was so pleased that he offered his gardener’s services on our stand at

Chelsea.

Many of the rhododendrons in my garden are the result of an early experiment. In the free

distribution of surplus seed from the Royal Horticultural Society I got four species of rhod. They were

grown and potted on in a Dewpoint Cabinet in a cellar in constant light. A little foliar feed was only

given when they looked starved but after 9 months some were pushing against the glass. Taking them

out I realised that most were ‘three years old’.

Trees and shrubs do not grow at a steady rate determined by the environment. In spring the terminal

buds burst into rapid growth. This slows gradually during the summer then forms a larger terminal

bud which remains dormant during the winter. The seedlings had nothing ‘to set their clocks by’ and

were following an erratic cycle quite happily. I say ‘3 years old’ because on many were the collars of

bud scales left as the terminal buds burst into spring growth three times in the nine months. You may

scorn such impatience but if you are trying to breed a rhododendron, you will have to wait probably

eight years to see the first flower unless you have a Dewpoint Cabinet.

Many plants fail to thrive without sleep. Tomatoes, lettuce, African Violets etc. slowly fail but I believe

that woody plants and ferns grow more quickly and quite healthy in constant light. I would be very

interested if anyone can demonstrate that this is wrong.”

We would be very pleased to hear from you with any comments on your methods of use and rate

of success. Also on any improvements you think we could make – feedback, both positive and

negative, is always appreciated and of course if you have any queries.

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

• Only a 230v, 50/60 Hz power socket connected to the public mains supply can be used for a power source. Never attempt to

operate the cabinet with a different voltage.

• Always consult a competent or qualified electrician if you are in any doubt concerning correct procedure or safety or for connection

requirements for the cabinet.

• The Dewpoint Cabinet can only be used indoors.

• The cabinet must be disconnected from the power source when opening any of the electrical components.

• The mains connector must never be plugged in or unplugged using wet hands.

• When disconnecting the device, hold the mains plug by the body and never pull the mains cable directly.

• Danger of Electrocution! Take care during installation to ensure that the cables do not get pinched or damaged on sharp edges.

If any such damage should occur then the cabinet must not be connected to the power under any circumstances.

Contact us immediately for replacement parts.

• When the cabinet can no longer be used safely it must be taken out of operation and placed out of reach to prevent accidental use.

• This is the case when:

Any electrical components or power cables have visible damage.

The device no longer functions.

It has been stored for a long period in unsuitable conditions.

It has been subjected to mishandling during transportation.

• These instructions are part of the cabinet and should be stored carefully. If the cabinet is being sent to or lent to any third party then

these instructions must also be included.

• In industrial facilities, the accident prevention specifications provided by the Insurance Liability Association for electrical systems

and equipment must be observed.

• This device must not be used by children. Where children are present supervision must be given at all times to prevent misuse.

• When unpacking the cabinet, and prior to use, make sure the cabinet and all related accessories are free from damage. In case of

damage caused during transport, contact us immediately.

• The packaging materials (plastic bags, polystyrene) represent a potential safety hazard and MUST be kept out of reach of children.

• Always unplug the cable from the socket when cleaning the control box.

• Occasionally wipe the interior and exterior surfaces of the unit with a damp cloth using a mild detergent and water.

• If the cabinet is not to be used for an extended period it should be disconnected from the electrical supply and be protected from

excess dust and dirt.

DISPOSAL and REPAIR

• This product contains reusable materials. Please do not dispose of this product with household waste.

Please contact your local authority for your nearest re-cycling and disposal facility.

• Repairs should only be performed by a qualified electrician.

• Spare and replacement parts are available from Two Wests & Elliott Ltd.

• Caution! Improper repairs can be hazardous for the user and others.