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Introduction

Homemade brushless motors, originally known as CD-ROM motors, used to be quite the task To find the right parts was a pain-staking process involving the destruction of countless CD-ROM drives, and even when you found enough parts to build one

motor, the odds of finding identical parts to build an identical motor were slim to none. GoBrushless.com remedied this problemby making homemade brushless motor components and accessories readily available inexpensively in any quantity needed.Now you can obtain the parts to build 10 identical motors or 10 completely unique motors.

Why is this important? Predicting the power output of a homemade brushless motor used to be a shot in the dark. Theunavailability of standard parts meant that even when you successfully built a motor, reproducing the results was impossible.

There was no way to determine exactly what the gain/loss would be from adding an extra turn or wind of wire, using a higher orlower wire gauge, stronger magnets, etc With identical standard parts a hobby-first from GoBrushless.com this is all athing of the past. No longer is the most difficult part of do-it-yourself brushless motors finding the right parts - now it's findingthe time to build!

This tutorial is meant as a basic guideline to illustrate in the simplest manner how to make a homemade brushless motor using

parts available from www.GoBrushless.com. There are many variables that determine the motors performance characteristics.Well get more into that on the website later. If youve never made one before, follow these instructions for your first try. Youllend up with a 20 turn, 12 pole motor that WILL work well. After youve shown yourself that it can be done, experiment withdifferent number of turns of wire, different magnet configurations, etc. Who knows, before too long, you might be ready to try adouble whopper with cheese (two stators wired as one). Hope you Enjoy!********************************************************************************************************

Step 1

Gather all of the required components. Your kit includes 3colors of 26 awg wire, stator, can (or yoke, or bell), 5x5x1mmN45 magnets, 3mm shaft, bearing holder, bearing sleeve, and

two 3mm ID ball bearings. You will need some CyanoAcrylate(CA) glue, minor tools and hardware, and patience.

Step 2a Winding the Stator

First use a razor or sharpknife to trim the little tit

from the top of the hammerhead. Using any of the 3 colors of wire, pick a tooth on the

stator and begin winding in a clockwise direction. The wires insulation is tough, but dontabuse it any more than you have to. Start at the hub and work your way to the outer edge(hammerhead), then back down to the hub. This takes time and patience neatness DOEScount in getting a good wind. Add at least 20 turns of wire to that tooth (you can do moreor less at your desire). When thats done, jump 2 teeth to the right and repeat the same

number of turns in the same clockwise direction. Make sure you leave enough slack in thewire between each tooth to clear the bearing holder. NOTE: It is criticalthat you areconsistent in your windings be sure to use the same number of turns on each arm, or itwill make the motor very difficult for the electronic speed controller (ESC) to control.

Step 2b

Once the second tooth is wound, jump again 2 teeth to the right and repeat the same

number of winds. This will complete the 1stphase. Not as hard as you thought, eh?

Step 2c

Using the second color of wire, start on the

next tooth to the right of where you startedwinding Phase 1. Repeat the same numberof winding always in a clockwise direction! Remember, consistency matters!


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Step 2d

Just as you did in the first phase, continue the wind jumping 2 teeth to the right.Remember to leave enough slack to clear the stator holder. This will complete the2

ndPhase.

Step 2e

Now take the final color of wire and repeat the process, again starting from the

next tooth to the right of where you started the winding in the second phase.Getting tougher now? Gets a little tighter to wind. Almost to the point ofsewing the wire through. Again, use the same number of turns as you did on

ALL the other teeth. Continue this to complete the 3

rd

Phase.

Step 3a Aligning the Magnets

Now its time to mark the poles of your magnets. The magnets WILL break.There are 15 in your kit, but you will only use 12. Set the other 3 aside in case

you need them. Place the 12 remaining magnets in a stack on top of the bell andmark the face of the top one with a marker.

Step 3b

Slide the marked magnet off the stack and mark theface of the next one. Repeat this process until all 12magnets are marked. This is how you will keep track

of north and south in your yoke.

Step 3cPrint out the magnet template below and cut it to fit in the inner diameter of the bell (~24mm) and place it into the bell.


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Step 3d

Insert your first magnet with the marked side facing towards the center of the bell. Center it on one of the lines and glue in place

using a drop or 2 of CA glue. To save yourself a headache at the end of this section, take care not to get CA on the papertemplate. Rubbing a thin layer of Vaseline or petroleum jelly around the edge of the template (on both sides) will usually keep theCA from adhering to the paper.

For a 12-pole arrangement, place amagnet on every other line with thesame face showing. Continue all theway round the bell securing them in

place with a drop of CA glue as yougo. Then place magnets with the Xdown (against the can) at the openlines. This can be tricky as themagnets will try to move directlyagainst (attract) each other as you put

them in. Take your time and centerthem carefully on the lines. Resulting in alternating magnet faces on each line ofthe template. Then remove the template

Step 4a Bearing Sleeve Assembly (or

optional Shielded Ball Bearings)

Take out the shaft, bearing tube holder, andbearing tube.

Step 4b

In order to press the bearing sleeve into the correct

position I used a GWS 3mm shaft, but any 2mm or 3mmnut and bolt long enough to extend through the bearing

tube holder will suffice. Put the parts on the shaft/bolt inthe order and direction shown below. The kit onlyincludes the bearing sleeve holder, bearing sleeve, andshaft. The bolt, nuts, and washers can be easily obtained

from any local tool or hardware store.

Step 4c Bearing Sleeve

Tighten the nut until the bearing tube is pressedin flush with the first ring on the inside of thebearing sleeve holder.


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Step 6a: Assembling Your Motor

Now take your previously wound stator and insert the bearing sleeve holder. Take care not to damage the windings (this is why

slack is needed between each tooth in the winding phase!). The tapered end of the bearing holder should be sticking the outsame side of your stator as the wire leads.

Step 6b

Now slide the stator and bearing assembly onto the shaft and bell. Push it in until you feel the plastic retainer ring on the shaftclick into place. This click is the sound of that plastic retainer ring locking itself into position inside the bearing sleeve holder.This is to prevent the can and shaft from pulling itself up and out of the bearing sleeve holder when spinning at high speeds.

Finishing Up

Lastly, you just need to scrape the enamel coating off of the ends of the wires in preparation for soldering. See the wiringdiagrams that show how to connect the wires depending on your setup (Star or Delta). In these drawings, the colors are NOT

meant to confuse you. Your motor has green, gold, and red for A, B, and C phases.The drawing uses blue, green, and red for A, B, and C.

A B C

For the Star(also called Wye), connect all the winding starts togetherby twisting and soldering. The three winding finishes are your power

leads.

For Delta, connect the start of A to the finish of C. The start of B

to the finish of A, and the start of C to the finish of B. Those threeconnections should be twisted and soldered. The three leads are your

power leads.

Connect your wires in the chosen scheme, solder the connections, andadd your chosen electrical connectors (if desired) to the 3 wires that willconnect to the electronic speed control (ESC) [GoBrushless.comrecommends the Phoenix 10 from Castle Creations]. Cover the exposedwire with heat shrink tubing to protect them from damage, then sit back

and admire your completed motor that was easy wasnt it!?!

Now youre ready for a double-whopper!

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