Mod InstructionsFirst, clear a place to work and plug in your soldering ironso it will be heating up. Now remove the battery cover andthe battery. Remove the four screws and the rear plate.Remove the black plastic circuit board insulator and nowyou see the circuit board. Use this photo to unsolder the oldparts from the board. Remember, the parts like it wherethey are so do a good job soaking up the old solder beforeyou attempt to pull them out. For Soldering/De-solderingtips, scan down to the end of this document.

Now remove the screw to the circuit board and flip theboard over to remove these fourteen parts.

Heres what the board should look like once the old partsare removed.

Your part collection should consist of six capacitors, twotransistors, three diodes, and three resistors. You alsoshould have pulled the red & white wire from pin 2 of theboard.

Now its time to repopulate the board as shown.Remember to pull the red and white wire from the circuitboard and solder it to the negative side of where the diodeused to be. The arrow on the board points to the negativeside.

The 10uf mustard colored capacitor is the only part that ispolarity sensitive, and only goes one way. As yourelooking at the writing on the capacitor there is a + sign onthe right and a sign on the left. The negative side goes inthe hole where the black mark is located. The writing onthe part should face away from the circuit board.

When youre done soldering it should look like this.

Now look down under the main circuit board and you willsee a mini circuit board with a single screw holding it inplace.

Unscrew it and pull the mini board up, and screw it into thescrew hole for the main circuit board ~ that way it will beaccessible and you can desolder it.

Unsolder it, remove the screw, and pull out the LED.

As you are holding the New Led you will notice that onelead is longer than the other ~ thats the positive side. Itgoes in the hole that is closest to the wires, right abovewhere it says PIN on the bottom of the mini board. Nowslide the Led into place, leaving around 3/16ths of an inchclearance between the board and the glass.

After youve bent the leads, rescrew it and resolder it.

When its done trim the lead ends and screw it back where you originallyremoved it. If the Led doesnt work its usually a bad battery, or the polarityis backwards; which means desoldering it and turning it around.

Its finally time to remove that old Fet switch. First removethe foam. If youre careful it will come out in one piece, butsince its not going back in, you may not care.

Now desolder the switch. Theyre worth money so you maywant to touch the iron to each point & remove the wires.

Youll need either a or 19 mm socket ~ an open endwrench, pliers, or vice grip will also work in a pinch.

Now its time to mount the 3PDT True Bypass Switch.

The orientation is correct so long as the contact points arehorizontal ~ theres no up or downside. Youll want torefer to this photo for pin orientation.

First make sure the input & output jacks are turned so thatthe yellow and white wires are closest to the switch. Nowlocate the Yellow wire on the input jack and cut it justenough where it will reach pin 4 of the bypass switch.

Locate the White wire on the output jack and cut it so thatit will reach pin 5 of the bypass switch.

When youre done it should look like this.

Take the Yellow wire from the board and connect it to pin1 of the bypass switch. Now take the White wire from theboard and connect it to pin 2 of the bypass switch. Whenyoure done it should look like this.

Now use a piece of wire or lead and jumper (connect)together pins 7 & 8. When youre done it should look likethis.

Now take the red & white wire you soldered to the boardand solder the other end to pin 3 of the bypass switch.Then take the black wire you desoldered from the old Fetswitch and and solder it to pin 6 of the bypass switch.When youre all done it should look like this.

When its all put back together there is just enough roomfor the battery.

If the rear plate doesnt want to fit because its running intothe switch, just loosen the nut on the switch and repositionit until it fits. Another way to make it fit is simply to bendthe fins of the back plate slightly and it will go on then.Below, please find a section on troubleshooting andsoldering tips.

TroubleshootingThere are several common things that can happen to makeyour mod experience a bit more fun than youd planned.When you get no sound or there is something wrong withthe sound the most common problems are:

1. A missed solder joint2. A poorly soldered joint3. A crossover soldered joint4. The battery is bad5. The battery plug is loose6. The chip is bad (rare, but it happens)7. The chip cradle was installed wrong8. One of the wires broke

Any of these problems are easily solvable so dont sweat it.The case of a problem solder joint requires that youcarefully re-examine the rear of the circuit board. A missedjoint is easy to spot and the repair is obvious. A poorlysoldered joint requires a little closer examination, but is justas simple to remedy once you have located the bad joint. Acrossover joint means that you have inadvertently linkedone solder joint with another. Important note: some jointsare supposed to be linked, so use these photos as a guide inorder to be certain. If thats the case, de-solder the jointand re-solder it correctly.

A power problem is easier still. Simply remove the batteryand test it in anything you know is good. As for the batteryterminal being loose, just squeeze together it using eitheryour fingers or a pair of pliers.

The quickest way to know if you have a bad chip (which israre) is to put the old TA7558P chip that you removed intothe cradle. If the chip cradle is improperly installed youcan know by noting the position on the circuit board.Unless it is all the way down and flush with the board, itmay not be making contact with one or more of the contactpoints. No sweat, just de-solder it and push it down andsolder it again ~ problem solved.

If one of the wires breaks anywhere on the pedal it wontwork until it is re-soldered. This is a simple matter ofexamining the pedal, gently pulling on the wires until thebroken one is found, and then de-soldering the place whereit was and re-soldering it again. Remember to use thephotos here as a guide. Also check the wires to the inputand output jacks.

If none of the above solves your problem then perhaps youmay want to consider shipping the pedal to me and Illrepair it for a nominal fee.

How to De-solderTools Required:

Soldering Iron 30 to 40 watts is just right. De-soldering Braid This is many thin strands of

copper that absorb the solder like a sponge.

To Begin: Place the braid against the solder joint andapply the soldering iron to the braid, sandwiching thebraid between the joint and the iron.

Hold it there until you see the braid absorb the solder, andwhen it does pull back the iron. If there is still more solderon the joint repeat the process until you are reasonably sureyou can remove the old part. Also, as the braid fill withsolder youll need to trim the used piece with a scissors asneeded so youll have fresh piece for each joint.

How to Solder Firstly place the iron against the solder joint. Allow

several seconds before applying the solder, when youdo apply it where the iron and the board meet in a Vpattern. When the solder melts it will fill the joint,and when it does pull back the iron & solder. Makesure the joint is completely covered like the jointsaround it. Periodically wipe the soldering iron tip on adamp cloth to remove excess flux.