1

Trips from Gaborone Hello, and welcome to Gaborone, the capital of Botswana. Botswana is a truly world-class tourist destination, with some

exceptional wildlife destinations within its borders. Sadly, for those of us living in Gabs, these destinations are at least a days drive away, if not two, making them impractical to visit for a weekend unless you incur the hefty costs of flying. However all is not lost. There are loads of destinations within striking distance of Gabs that can be visited for a weekend,

or even a day trip. Some are in Botswana, whilst many more are over the border in South Africa. Sadly the guidebooks overlook both southern Botswana, and the nearby parts of Limpopo and North-west Province. Internet resources are also

rather patchy.

This guide has been written to fill in the gaps, supplementing your Bradts, Rough Guides and Lonely Planets. It is based

on personal experience from 2 years of living in Gaborone and exploring the surroundings during the weekends. You will get more out of this guide if you enjoy the outdoors, and a sturdy high-clearance vehicle is also useful.

1. Day trips from Gaborone ..................................................................................... 2

2. Weekend trips .................................................................................................... 7

Heading North ............................................................................................. 7

Heading East .............................................................................................. 10

Heading Southeast ...................................................................................... 14

Other destinations ....................................................................................... 16

3. Madikwe Game Reserve and Day Trips ................................................................. 17

4. Ideas for a long weekend ................................................................................... 20

5. Hints & Tips ...................................................................................................... 22

6. City Guide ........................................................................................................ 25

7. Maps and Routes ............................................................................................... 27

2

1. Day trips from Gaborone

Name Description Directions, distance,

websites Price

Day Trips - Botswana

Old Palapye

Deep in the bush, Old Palapye is a fascinating remnant of modern Botswanas early history. Reading up on the London Missionary Society before your arrival is

recommended:

http://www.jstor.org/stable/41236043

Old Palapye can be combined with Moremi Gorge to make a good weekend adventure.

288km from Gabs. A 4x4 or bakkie is recommended. There is a lot of sand to tackle once you

get off the tarmac. Possible to park on tarmac and walk, but

plan your walking route with a GPS.

https://goo.gl/UaAJke

Free

Aloe Forest

Listed in the Botswana Lonely Planet (although

incorrectly marked on the map) the Aloe Forest is about 40km from Gabs on the Molopolole road and

makes for a nice picnic destination. Take along a garden fork and a bucket and you can even bring back a water-wise souvenir to plant in your garden!

40km from Gaborone on the road

to Molepolole (passing the Grand Palm hotel). The forest is visible both sides of the road, but you can go through the gate at -24.4550, 25.6504 and follow

the track to a suitable spot.

Free

Springboard

Humanism Cafe (Molepolole)

Nice for a Sunday afternoon, the Springboard

Humanism Cafe serves up tea and cake, sometimes with a storytelling or other activity.

http://springboard-humanism.org/

Tel: 74491064 or 5915400

About 54km from Gabs. Take the

Molepolole road to Molepolole, just as you enter the town, take

the first left on to the B111. Its about 1.7km further on the right hand side (signposted)

https://goo.gl/TTZjld

Tea and cake

for around P25.

3

Phataletshaba Gorges

Mentioned on page 161 of Guide to Gaborone by Campbell & Main, Phataletshaba makes for a nice walk

in the bush. The gorge itself has a seasonal stream running through it that waters lots of trees and is cool & fresh in contrast to the usual Botswana bush heat.

A good destination for a summer picnic.

http://www.botswanabeckons.com/publications/books

/item/guide-to-greater-gaborone

51km from Gabs, just south of Thamaga. Youll need a high clearance vehicle to get here. Follow the track on Google Maps:

https://goo.gl/wtn10G

to the Sebilong Mine and start your walk from there. A Google

Earth kml file is available here

http://goo.gl/zkRnpk

Free

Monalanong Hill (highest point in

Botswana)

At 1,409 metres above sea level this hill, or rather plateau, is only a 40 minutes drive from Gabs and offers an invigorating day hike. However getting to

the top is a challenge - there is no path on the way up so some bushwacking is required (see hints and

tips). Once up on top the views are excellent, and the going is easier. Takes 6 hours to go up and down at a relaxed pace.

45 km from Gaborone, head south from Game City toward Boatle, turn right and pass

through Boatle village down a sandy track to the right of the

hill.

https://goo.gl/q3DbtF

Free

Mount Otse (climb to the top)

The second or third highest point in Botswana (1,407 metres) is an easier hike with better views than Monalanong, but some bushwacking is still involved.

Mount Otse has a bit of folklore adding to the hills character. Takes 5 hours to go up and down.

Can have breakfast or post hike tea at the Campshill Garden Centre

53km from Gabs. Head south from Game City and park near the Otse Shell filling station.

Cross the A1 and walk up the farmers track to start the walk.

https://goo.gl/UZFPnv

Free

Mount Otse (Segorong gorge)

On the north side of Mount Otse is a signposted gorge and stream that makes a nice destination for a stroll and a picnic, especially as an escape from the summer

heat. May not be possible to drive to the gorge following the Google Maps route, you may have to

park on the A1 and walk.

50km from Gabs, unglamorously situated behind the Otse Police Training College. Park on the A1

near -25.00328, 25.74635 and follow the track. There may be

signposts.

https://goo.gl/cZJFyx

Free

4

Mogonye Gorges*

Near Boatle and Monalanong Hill, the Mogonye Gorges are now part of a somewhat unsatisfactory community

tourism development, with a guided tour at P75 per person required. See Tripadvisor for peoples experiences.

http://www.botswanabeckons.com/places/places-southern/places-ramotswa/item/mogonye-gorge

43 km from Gaborone, head south from Game City toward

Boatle, turn right and pass through Boatle village.

https://goo.gl/KatcpO

P75 per person for a

short (1 hour) guided walk.

Bathoen Dam

(Kanye)

Built pre-independence to provide water to Kanye, the

dam is a nice spot for a picnic, with plenty of trees to shield you from the sun.

86km from Gabs, about a 90

minute drive. Go past Thamaga en route to Kanye, turn left at the roundabout before Kanye,

and turn right at the crossroads signposted for Kanye (left for

Ranaka). About 4km on gravel.

https://goo.gl/A2ccpa

Free

Jwaneng Diamond Mine

Debswana is keen to show a positive face to the world, and these free tours are part of its marketing strategy. The highlight is seeing the main pit, and the scale of

both the machinery and the hole is quite staggering. Photography is restricted. There is also the Jwaneng

Game Reserve, although it is unclear if this is open as of 2015.

http://www.debswana.com/Operations/Pages/Mine-

Visits.aspx

165km / 3 hour drive from Gaborone. You need to book a place on a tour with the

Corporate Affairs Dept, who require about 10 days notice. If

you are a small group you can join a larger tour.

https://goo.gl/gmzsco

Free

5

Day Trips -

South Africa

Day trips to South Africa from Gaborone are feasible, although you need to prepare yourself: turn on roaming on your phone, fill your tank with cheap Botswana fuel, withdraw some Rand beforehand and

take a credit card. Also build in some flexibility to your timetable in case there is a long queue at the Tlokweng border.

Lunch at Madikwena Crocodile Inn

Fancy eating crocodile for lunch? This restaurant is attached to a working crocodile farm where you can watch the little blighters lazing in the sunshine whilst

you eat one of their cousins (or beef, chicken etc.). It is a good idea to phone in advance to check they are

open, and if they have croc on the menu.

http://www.madikwena.co.za/

About 120km from Gabs, crossing the Tlokweng border and taking the Groot Marico

D1339 shortcut road

+27 (0)87 820 3746, +27 (0)83

293 7090

https://goo.gl/jyJb86

Restaurant is reasonably priced. They

take credit cards, but

bring Rand in cash as a backup

Molatedi Dam

Built during the heyday of the Bophuthatswana homeland, Molatedi dam makes a good destination for

a picnic. You can visit the dam wall itself (where there is a dedicated braai area) or explore the waters edge, where you may see flamingos wading the shallows.

https://goo.gl/YyeDG4

About 120km from Gabs. Cross at the Sikwane border and follow the road south

for 38km until the T-junction at the end. Turn right toward Molatedi. For the dam

wall continue through Molatedi, then turn left following the signs for the dam. For the waters edge, turn left at Molatedi and

head south. There are 2 overgrown bush tracks down to the water (4x4 needed).

Free

Kaditshwene ruins

Quite extraordinary remains of a pre-colonial iron age town out in what is now bushveld on the way to

Zeerust. The town was visited in 1820 by John Campbell of the London Missionary Society and described in his book Travels in South Africa. The site is still undergoing research by the University of Pretoria. It is now on private land, with the owners

running a (rather unsuccessful) lodge, but there is a small museum and you can wander around the remains. Worth reading the links below before you

visit. Take study walking shoes.

http://kaditshweneheritage.co.za/

Cross at Tlokweng and head toward Zeerust. After 74 km at

turn left at the Enselsberg sign. After 8.5km turn right at the T junction, after 3 km you will see

a sign for Ancient City on the right.

https://goo.gl/SbC9k2

http://www.kaditshwene.com/

http://www.safarinow.com/go/an

cientcityzeerust/

Free to visit the ruins,

although a tip to your guide is

recommended

6

Willie Bruyns Transport Museum

Remarkable collection of vintage cars from Detroits golden age, randomly assembled outside Rustenburg.

Chevrolets, Cadillacs and Chryslers dating from the 1920s though to the 1970s.

Can visit as a day trip but it is a 3 hour drive each way

perhaps make it part of a weekend excursion.

+27832368140

Turn off the N4 by Rustenburgs Waterfall Mall on to the R24

south. After 8 km turn left at the Woza Woza Meat Market. Take the next left on to a dirt road

(you should see a sign for the museum). Then take the 2nd

right and follow the road.

https://goo.gl/hJXPf3

Free. Its a private

collection. Good to phone before

to check a visit will be

OK

Mafikeng / Mahikeng

This town, 150km south of Gaborone, has a colourful history; it was once the capital of what is now Botswana, and was the setting for a famous Boer War siege. Today the town is a little scruffy, but there

is enough to see and do to keep the visitor satisfied for a weekend. Potentially Mafikeng could be visited as a day trip, but it is more relaxed to stay overnight.

1) Mafikeng museum. Situated bang in the middle of town. Of interest to those with an historical bent. Read up on the siege of Mafikeng beforehand. Baden-

Powells dispatches report is particularly entertaining.

+27 18 381 0773

http://www.thedump.scoutscan.com/siegereport.pdf

8am to 4pm Monday-Friday

10am 12.30pm Saturdays. Closed Sundays. This means

you have to either arrive Friday night, or making an early start

on Saturday morning.

Free / donation appreciated

2) Mafikeng / Mmabatho Stadium. Listed as one

of the worlds most bizarre football stadiums, with a 59,000 capacity. Politely ask the guard to be shown around (give a tip) or try and see the 2nd division

North-West University Soccer Institute play a match.

http://www.oddee.com/item_97059.aspx

https://www.facebook.com/pages/NWU-Soccer-Institute/280782531935530

Located in Mmabatho, north of

down-town Mafikeng. The stadium is so big you cant miss it. Note that NWU play most of

their matches at the Mafikeng Campus Sports fields

https://goo.gl/H6h6UV

Free. A tip of

R20-R50 to the guard would be

appreciated

7

3) Mafikeng Game Reserve. Superb self-drive reserve and a great place to see white rhino.

http://www.tourismnorthwest.co.za/mafikeng-game-reserve/

Entrance is off Shippard Street (R49) / Jacaranda Street

(Jacaranda Ave in Google Maps).

+ 27(0)18 3971675 /6 /7

About R40-R50 per car.

Open sunrise to sunset 7 days a week

4) Buffalo Lodge restaurant. Looking for a huge

honest steak and chips? Dine in this thatched restaurant. Beef Baron quality at a third of the price.

59 Molopo Road

+27 (0)18 3812159

http://www.buffalolodge.co.za/

Around R100

per person for a full meal

2. Weekend trips

Heading North Heading north on the A1 for a weekend trip usually means a long drive at least 270km in each direction most destinations are in Botswana however so you save time on not crossing the border. Make sure your vehicle is set for a long drive check the oil, pump the tires, and have enough fuel to get you to Mahalapye.

Botswana

Khama Rhino

Sanctuary

Im sure you already know about this place, which is a popular overnight stop for Gautengers en route to the Delta, hence booking in advance is recommended.

Chalets and camping available. The restaurant is not up to much, better to braai.

If your sole aim is to see rhino Mafikeng Game Reserve

is an easier and cheaper option.

(+267) 4630713, (+267) 4600204, (+267) 73965655

http://www.khamarhinosanctuary.org.bw/

340km from Gaborone. Go to

Palapye, then Sewore, and keep going toward Orapa.

Inside the reserve it is sandy you can get to the accommodation in a saloon,

but forget about touring the park in anything other than a

4x4.

https://goo.gl/kvMoGx

Approx P700

for entrance & chalet per

night.

See website

for detailed pricing.

8

Stevensford Game Reserve

One of the few private reserves in Botswana near Gaborone. Pleasant self catering lodge on the Limpopo.

Can go cycling and walking. Quite expensive in comparison to South African lodges, but you dont have the hassle of crossing the border.

http://www.stevensfordgamereserve.com/

343 kms from Gabs. Go through Mahalapye and head

for the Martinsdrift border. Turn left onto the dirt road 10km before the border.

Drive 13 kms along the dirt road to the entrance gates.

https://goo.gl/PRWqab

From P560 for a 1 bed chalet

Goo-Moremi Gorge &

Chalets

Revamped in 2013 Moremi Gorge is quite delightful by

southern Botswana standards. The gorge has a year-round water flow and is a great way to escape the

summer heat. There is a colony of breeding cape vultures also, so bring your binoculars. Timing your visit with breeding season is a good idea. The chalets are

superb although they risk slowly falling in to disrepair so go sooner rather than later. No braaiing due to the

risk of starting a bush fire, but the chalets have very fancy gas barbeques for you to grill your meat. Camping also available. Can combine with a visit to the

ruined LMS church in Old Palapye.

340km / 3.5 hour drive from

Gabs doable in a saloon in dry season.

Not the easiest place to find. Head to Moremi village, then turn right at the small sign,

and follow the track, and more small signs, crossing a

bridge.

https://goo.gl/zsGviR

http://goo-moremigorge.com/

1 bed chalets

P600 + P40 entrance per

person

Lotsane Safaris*

Located between Sherwood and Zanzibar in the Tuli block this hunting lodge is situated on the banks of the

Lotsane River, 800 metres from the Limpopo. The lodge offers walking safaris, swimming, fishing and

game drives. The restaurant serves up buffet meals.

http://lotsane.com/en/ +27 82 97 97 999

377km from Gabs, further down the road from

Stevensford.

https://goo.gl/KRhlQw

Double room from P450

pps exc. meals.

Vegro Game Farm*

Out in the bush between Mahalapye and Martinsdrift Vegro offers safari tent bush camping on the banks of the Limpopo. Booking through SafariNow appears the

best option. Walking, cycling and braaiing possible.

http://www.safarinow.com/go/vegrogamefarm/

283km from Gaborone. Go through Mahalapye and head for Machaneng, turn right at

the T-junction after Machaneng towards Makwate

/ Parrs Halt, Vegro is 10km down the gravel road.

https://goo.gl/HHuuHv

P250 per person

9

South Africa

Sebe Sebe Lodge (South Africa)

A very nice private game reserve on the banks of the Limpopo. Range of accommodation available. Can self-

cater or have dinner request the impala pie before you visit, it is exceptional!

Lodge is good for cycling and walking, with giraffe, kudu and other buck in abundance. Dont be put off by the awful photo on SafariNow.

http://www.sebesebelodge.co.za/

+27 83 456 6940 , +27 83 456 6940

280km from Gaborone w. 46km on OK gravel. Head

north out of Gabs and turn on to the B147 at Mahalapye,

after 23km turn right on to the Makwate gravel road, crossing in to South Africa at

Parrs Halt. The lodge is a 10km drive from the border

on tarmac. The lodge is not signposted so take a GPS. https://goo.gl/6qg44R

From R750 to R1,500 for a

unit.

Fahad Game

Reserve*

A little way past Sebe Sebe lodge this semi-luxury lodge

is on the banks of the Limpopo. Looks nice.

http://fahadgamereserve.co.za/

+27 87 813 0685, +27 86 551 0428

313km from Gabs going via

Mahalapye and crossing at Parrs Halt. 415km if going via Martins Drift and avoiding the gravel road.

https://goo.gl/qzTdRo

3 lodges to

choose from. From R500 pppn minimum group size of

4.

Tweerivier Game Farm*

700 hectare game farm on the banks of the Limpopo river. Hiking and birding possible. Oryx, sable, wildebeest, red hartebeest, giraffe, eland, and zebra to

be seen.

http://tweerivier.com/

reservations@tweerivier.com

+27 828294832

327km from Gabs going via Mahalapye and crossing at Parrs Halt.

https://goo.gl/mguEKW

259km if taking Route A and

taking the back roads through Limpopo.

https://goo.gl/TdgUGV

From R500 per person per night, self

catering.

10

Heading East Heading east usually means crossing in to South Africa at the Sikwane/ Derdepoort border (6am to 7pm). This crossing opens up a huge number of comfortable and affordable game

lodges and guesthouses that are between a 2 to 4 hours drive from Gabs. However a sturdy vehicle is helpful for tackling the 80km or so of gravel roads before you reach South African

tarmac. See the Maps and Routes section for more information.

Botswana

Oilfants Drift bush camping

Armed with a tent, camping gear, a sturdy vehicle and a GPS you can find a quiet spot on the banks of the

Limpopo and camp overnight. Particularly nice during the dry season and you are craving a little natural water and greenery. There may be a lot of cow dung around,

so bring a shovel to make clearing your campsite easier.

With a little planning you can cross (illegally) over to South Africa and visit Tololie lodge for lunch, dinner, or even to stay overnight.

About 140km / 2 hours from Gaborone, with 30 km on

gravel. Potentially there are lots of places to camp next to the river. You can go via

Mochudi, but the gravel road is very bumpy.

https://goo.gl/XKfWMV

Free

South Africa

Dumanzi Lodge

Small lodge nestled in the bushveld about 160km from Gabs. Can go hiking, or bring your own bikes and

explore. Zebra, giraffe, kudu and other vegetarian wildlife. Africkaaner flavoured restaurant on site. This is a hunting lodge and sometimes has kudu and other

game meat for sale.

http://www.dumanzilodge.co.za/

162km from Gabs. Take Route B and turn right on to

the D115.

https://goo.gl/oTDAuV

Tel. +27 (14) 596 5131

Cell. +27 (82) 920 2802

Accommodation from

around R250 per person.

11

Schoonkloof Game Ranch

Small lodge in the bush south east of Madikwe, close to Molatedi Dam. Accommodation consists of 2 storey

chalets sharing a communal lounge, kitchen and braai area (no restaurant, the main lodge burnt down some years ago). The lodge breeds rare antelope which you

can go and see on a (rather primitive) game drive black impala, golden onyx and other curiously coloured

buck. Another plus is the excellent hiking through the hills to the north of the farm.

http://www.schoonkloof.co.za/ +27 82 733 7200

Can combine with a visit to Molatedi dam, and/ or

Sunday lunch in Madikwe en route back to Gabs.

116km from Gabs - a 1.5 hour drive. Cross at Sikwane

and head south to the T junction and turn left. At Dwarsberg turn right and

continue for 9.5km. Entrance on the right.

https://goo.gl/gD7R8T

From R400 single self

catering

Angasii Lodge

Semi-luxury game reserve near Northam offering

beautifully appointed chalets and a decent restaurant under a boma. Can go cycling if you bring your bikes.

Giraffe and plenty of antelope.

http://www.angasii.co.za/

+27-14-784 0497

179km-225km from

Gaborone. Take Route B or C to Northam, turn on to the

R510, then take the turning 5km north of Northam. 5km down the gravel road.

https://goo.gl/yZzg3P

From

R500pppn sharing.

Thulani Game Lodge

Another semi-luxury game reserve with accommodation on top of a koppie in the middle of the reserve.

Amazing views. A spa is onsite offering massages and the like. The sunset African Bush Chalet is recommended, cooking facilities in the Stilted Tents is

limited. The reserve makes for an excellent cycling safari.

http://www.thulani.co.za/

+27 82 456 6905

201km-230km from Gaborone. With Route B take

the R511 south and turn left on to the Road P20/2 to Northam and continue for

12km.

https://goo.gl/b32xo7

With Route C go to Northam and continue going east for 24km, then turn left for

Koedoeskop.

https://goo.gl/6ybCSb

From R1,300 per unit

12

Tololie Lodge

Overlooking a bend in the Limpopo this hunting lodge can be visited for an overnight stay. Good standard of

rooms, possibility of having meals provided, self catering possible.

The lodge markets itself to American hunters, and has

no internet footprint. It does exist!

+27187712038

153km-180km from Gaborone, 90 km on gravel

from Sikwane, less if you take the longer route past Atherstone Nature Reserve.

For the adventurous you could drive to Oilfants Drift

(Botswana) and cross by foot over to the lodge, if water levels allow.

https://goo.gl/S3Miwx

Around R450 per person

per night.

Mateke Game Farm

Next to Marakele National Park Mateke is a good sized

private reserve to explore on foot and has some marked walking trails (perhaps too sandy for bikes).

Accommodation is in rustic chalets next to a large communal firepit and simple kitchen. Monkeys are everywhere and will happily steal all your food. One of

the most affordable places to visit in this guide.

http://www.mateke.co.za/ +27 73 703 4636

220km from Gaborone, taking

Route A. Turn left on to the R510 toward Matlabas, after

11km right on to the Rooiberg road, after 400m turnleft on to the Tweeloopfontein road.

18km to Mateke on gravel.

https://goo.gl/g5tIfB

From around

R250 pppn.

Possibly a minimum stay of 2 nights.

Marakele Predator Centre

Not-as-bad-as-you-would-think zoo north of Thabazimbi. Plan your visit around feeding time. You

will never have the opportunity to see so many rare animals in one place.

+(27)715077752

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Marakele-Predator-Centre/333678406692702

On the R510 north out of Thabazimbi, on the left hand

side.

Around R100 per adult.

Feeding times Wednesday 12 noon, and

Sunday 12 noon.

Other places worth considering. These are places I considered visiting, but were either full when I enquired, or I just

ran out of weekends.

Grootfontein Private Nature Reserve*

(South Africa)

Offers kayaking, hiking and mountain biking as well as a vegetarian safari.

http://www.mygrootfontein.com/ +27 74 3013452

173km from Gaborone, taking Route B.

https://goo.gl/vb078N

From R350pppn

13

Matla Manzi*

(South Africa)

Small hunting lodge deep in the Limpopo bush on the Matlabas river.

http://www.safarinow.com/go/matlamanzilodgeandranch/

228km from Gaborone taking a variation on Route A.

https://goo.gl/Vj3ybd

Need to enquire

Matla Mamba*

(South Africa)

Offers canoeing on the Mamba river, together with usual vegetarian safari.

http://www.matlamamba.co.za/

226 km from Gaborone taking Route A

https://goo.gl/PgM3ag

Need to enquire

Sweethome Mountain Lodge*

(South Africa)

Small hunting reserve that is cheap, next to a river and a comparatively short drive.

reservations.sweethome@gmail.com +27832327034

http://sweethome.co.za/

163km from Gabs taking Route B.

https://goo.gl/u83u4G

From R350 pppn

Gnu Ranch*

(South Africa)

Private reserve offering a range of self catering accommodation including a Tree Top Cabin. Hiking,

mountain-biking and 44 trails.

http://www.gnuranch.co.za/

243km from Gabs taking Route A

https://goo.gl/xwJO5q

From R250 pppn low

season.

Leopard Lodge and

the Cubs*

(South Africa)

Near the Mokolo Dam this small lodge offers water

activities and fishing.

http://www.safarinow.com/go/leopardlodgethecubs/

250km from Gaborone taking

Route A.

https://goo.gl/Drf9rO

From R375

pppn self catering

Marakele National Park*

(South Africa)

Big 5 national park in a fairly spectacular Waterberg setting. Can self-drive. Camping very popular so book

well in advance.

http://www.saparks.com/accommodation/marakele_national_park.aspx

194km taking Route B, or 234km taking Route A.

Entrance is on the road heading east out of Thabazimbi.

https://goo.gl/DnezOZ

R76 per adult for SADC

residents.

Welgevonden Game

Reserve*

(South Africa)

At 37,000 hectares Welgevonden is about half the size

of Madikwe, but offers the same Big 5 luxury. Some lodges also offer horseback safaris. Check out the safari

discounters for special deals.

http://www.welgevondengamereserve.org/

281km from Gabs taking

Route A

https://goo.gl/axf8Hv

Lodges from

around R1,500 pppn

so less than Madikwe.

14

Heading Southeast

Heading southeast means crossing in to South Africa at the Tlokweng / Kopfontein border (6am to 12 midnight). An alternative is the Ramotswa / Swartkop border (6am-6pm) which

brings you to the N4 just west of Zeerust, and is tarmac all the way.

South Africa

Groot Marico

Chances are you are already aware of this quaint little town. Lots of self catering guest farms at very

reasonable prices, most of which are on the Marico river, which is good for swimming and generally relaxing. Groot Marico hosts the annual Bosman

Festival (Feb-March) which is definitely recommended. There is some good hiking in the surrounding Marico

Valley. Not many shops in town, stock up in Zeerust for your braai.

http://www.marico.co.za/

162 km from Gaborone. An easy drive on tarmac via

Zeerust.

Contact Santa at the Information Centre info@marico.co.za or +27(0)83

2722958 or +27(0)14503 0085 for information and

bookings

Guesthouses from around

R250 pppn.

Rametsi Eco-Game Farm

Slightly kitsch game reserve with comfortable chalet accommodation, swimming pool, and a large tract of

sandy bushveld including the Lindleyspoort Dam. Various herbivores including a large herd of wildebeest.

Not a bad place for a low-key weekend.

http://www.rametsi.co.za/

+27 (0)71 2800 638

160km from Gabs taking the D1339 gravel shortcut.

201km going via Zeerust and staying on tarmac.

https://goo.gl/m1M3vk

From R450.00 pppn sharing

self catering

Thabana Game

Reserve*

Quite pricey and slightly upscale game reserve situated between Madikwe and the Botswana border. The fairly

high rates means that you may want to consider a budget Madikwe stay for about the same price.

http://www.thabanalodge.co.za/gallery.htm

+27 (0)83 264 5334 or +27 (0)83 709 2990

+27 (0)18-350 9909

65km from Gabs crossing at Ramotswa, 82km via

Tlokweng.

https://goo.gl/Gj9V2N

R1,300pp sharing inc.

dinner, brunch and 2

game drives

15

Botsalano Game Reserve*

Botsalano derives its name from the Setswana word for 'friendship' and is a great little park used for breeding

antelope for other South African reserves. Camping and the Mogobe Tented Camp available.

http://www.tourismnorthwest.co.za/botsalano-game-

reserve/

About 130km from Gabs. Can cross at Ramotswa or Pioneer

Gate. Tarmac all the way.

https://goo.gl/SC6ZOq

R35 pp entrance, R60

per camp site. R400 for Mogobe

Tented Camp

Pilanesberg Game

Reserve*

Despite being the poor relation to Kruger, Pilanesbergs scenery is spectacular, being set in the eroded crater of a long extinct volcano. Popular with self-drivers staying at Sun City next door the reserve can get a little

crowded, and some of the facilities are a bit dated, but the place still offers good animal watching.

http://www.pilanesbergnationalpark.org/

See routes for Sun City

below.

R65 entrance

per adult. P20 per car. Maps R20.

Guided game drives from

R460pp

Buffelspoort Dam*

Popular with fisherman and boaters, Buffelspoort is a

small dam just past Rustenburg. Some nice accommodation near the dam, more tranquil and less

developed than Haartbeespoort dam.

283km from Gabs via Zeerust

and the N4.

https://goo.gl/f0D2vL

R10 per

vehicle and R15 per adult

Black Rhino reserve*

A newly opened extension to Pilanesberg offering something mid-way between luxury safari and private

game reserve. Gets excellent reviews.

http://www.blackrhinogamelodge.com/

+27 83 297 5020

As above. The entrance for Black Rhino is on the R565 to

the northwest of the main reserve.

From around R1,500pppn

booking with a discounter.

16

Sun City

This dated behemoth of a tourist resort is still going strong after more than 30 years in operation. Whilst

there is little to keep the discerning visitor entertained, if you are looking for slot machines, junk food and oversized lost world kitsch, this is your place. Note that unless you are staying at the (pricey) Cascades Hotel, you are restricted in the areas you can visit. Sun

City is however a good choice if you have a young family and are looking for an easy holiday break.

Several routes: 281km via Zeerust and Rustenburg (no

gravel).

https://goo.gl/3ERSzH

221km taking the D1339

shortcut: https://goo.gl/tQSN4D

182km via Sikwane

https://goo.gl/HzltjB

R60 per adult for day visits.

Hotel rates vary by season Cabanas from R950 per

room B&B.

Other destinations

Botswana

Sita pan

This small salt pan 60km or so southwest of Kanye

makes a good overnight camping destination. There is a track around the pan and you can camp more or less anywhere. Sometimes some game animals to be seen.

https://tracks4africa.co.za/listings/item/w150280/sita-bush-camp/

https://goo.gl/X06Fbo

163 km from Gabs, inc. 60km on a good gravel road. Take the road to Kanye, turn right at the Jwaneng junction (by the Police Station), drive towards Jwaneng for 16km to a junction on the left where there are a couple of shops. Turn left and follow the dirt road for 60km. Sita Pan is visible from the road.

Free

Khutse Game Reserve

Well known reserve a 3 hour drive northwest of Gaborone. The lodge, if it is still open, gets poor

reviews, camping is the way to go.

Advance booking for a camp site is required.

218km from Gabs, a 3 hour drive, with 100km on a good

graded road. 4x4 needed to explore the park including a guard over the radiator to keep the grass seeds out.

https://goo.gl/aEGKSI

P30 entrance (residents)

P20 camping (residents)

P10 per car

Phuduhudu Small hunting lodge near Lobatse +267 71304897

http://www.lobatseaccommodation.co.za/

89km south of Gaborone.

https://goo.gl/bLBrh9

P200 pppn

17

3. Madikwe Game Reserve and Day Trips Madikwe is a relatively young game reserve that began life in post-apartheid South Africa. Bophuthatswana had been reabsorbed in

to South Africa, and it was clear that even with the Molatedi dam the area was never going to make successful farmland. So all the farms were bought up and merged in to a bushveld game reserve which opened its doors in 1991. Madikwe is marketed to

international visitors as a remote, on-the-edge-of-nowhere alternative to Kruger, where you can fly in and see the Big 5 on a luxury safari when Sabi Sands is booked out. Indeed, on a South African map Madikwe does look to be on the edge of nowhere, however for residents in Gaborone, it is only a 40 minute drive, and makes a great day-trip or weekend destination.

Madikwe, however, is two to three times more expensive than many of the small private game reserves listed in this guide, even after taking discounts into consideration. But if staying overnight youll get 2 game drives, breakfast and dinner included so keep that in mind.

Madikwe discounts and choosing your lodge

For overnight bookings there are two South African websites that offer discounted stays (Bush Breaks and MtBeds). Some offers state South African residents only but if you say you are living in Botswana they will offer you the discount as well.

http://www.bushbreaks.co.za/ http://www.mtbeds.co.za/

When researching your choice of lodge remember that every lodge is essentially selling the same thing. Different lodges will talk

about their eco-credentials, conservation work, levels of luxury and how they are different from the rest, but remember that this is all marketing. Slick lodge websites make every lodge look amazing making it hard to distinguish the average from the great.

Websites such as Tripadvisor are both a blessing and a curse. Remember that globally the average Tripadvisor score is 4.2 and that

any individual review is highly subjective. You can waste spend hours reading Tripadvisor reviews, and still be none-the-wiser.

Perhaps better to base your choice on the lodges tangible aspects and how they match with your own preferences what is it that you like? Traditional Meru tent or modern designer chic? air conditioning? outdoor shower? plunge pool? fireplace? buffet dinner or al a carte? communal dining or separate tables? child friendly? covered or uncovered game vehicles, with or without a spotter? on a hill with a view or hidden in the bush next to a river? waterhole view from the deck? on the edge of the park next to the fence? spa,

gym and sauna? night time lighting by paraffin lanterns or energy-saving lightbulbs? The list goes on and on....

Finally with Madikwe be aware of which gate you should enter by, and if you can get to the lodge in your saloon.

18

Madikwe Day trips

It is becoming increasingly well known that you can visit Madikwe on a day trip in your own vehicle. The trick is that you have to

arrange to have lunch and/ or a game drive with a lodge beforehand. The lodges that offer this facility change as different managers come and go. The list below resulted from emailing every lodge in the Park in 2013 and asking if they accommodated day-visits, most lodges dont.

You have 2 options when visiting as a day visitor:

1 park your car at the gate and have the lodge collect you in a game vehicle

2 drive to the lodge yourself

Option 1 is the easiest, and you get a mini game drive en route to the lodge. Option 2 gives you more freedom and you can drive to most lodges with a normal clearance vehicle.

Madikwe has two types of roads public access roads, which are signposted and normal vehicles are allowed to use most lodges are accessible by public access roads. And game drive tracks, which are not signposted and public vehicles are not meant to use.

The most affordable way to day-trip Madikwe is simply to go for lunch and to drive yourself to and from the lodge. If you have a 4x4 and a GPS loaded with Tracks-4-Africa, you can, after lunch, go and explore the park on your own, but dont tell anyone! There are few / no vehicles out in the park before 4pm, and you can exit by whichever gate you please. If you are lucky youll see some wildlife. If you are unlucky youll get lost / stuck in the mud and get in to trouble. Its up to you.

My personal recommendation for the first time visitor is either lunch at Jacis Lodge or Etali, and keep to the public roads, or head to Makanyane for afternoon tea, evening game drive and dinner, and drive back to Gaborone in the dark, crossing at Tlokweng.

Jacis Safari Lodge

A 5 star lodge on the eastern edge of Madikwe, Jacis Lodge offers an excellent three course set menu lunch, and the option of an evening game drive.

As Jacis is on the opposite side of Madikwe to Gaborone, you enter via the Abjaterskops Gate and drive across the park on public roads, giving some

opportunity for game viewing. After lunch you can then exit via any gate you wish the Tau Gate makes a good destination - again with game viewing opportunities.

lodgemanager@madikwesafarilodge.co.za

+27(0)183509902

Cross at Tlokweng and drive

south to the Abjaterskops Gate (you will not be let in at Tau or Wonderboom). The gate staff

then radio Jacis to confirm you are on their list. You pay the

entrance fee and for lunch at the lodge (cash or credit card)

http://www.madikwe.com/

R160 per

adult to enter the park. R250

for lunch, R3,000 for

a game drive (max

8 people).

19

Thakadu River Camp

A 4 star lodge toward the east of the park. The lodge allows you to park your car at the Abjaterskops Gate

and be collected in a game vehicle (open, no tracker). You then have lunch at the lodge (buffet) before an afternoon game drive that leaves you back at the

Abjaterskops Gate, where you then head back to Gaborone. Hence your car never need leave tarmac.

http://thakadurivercamp.co.za/

Wayne Herholdt: gm@thakadu.co.za +27(0)183659912/3

Cross at Tlokweng and drive south to the Abjaterskops Gate

(you will not be let in at Tau or Wonderboom). The gate staff then radio Thakadu to confirm

you are on their list. You pay all the fees at the lodge (cash or

credit card)

R160 to enter the

park. R180 for lunch, R1,500 for

a game drive.

Makanyane Lodge

A 5 star lodge on private grounds to the east of Madikwe. A game drive (preceded by high tea) takes

you across the Madikwe river in to the Game Reserve proper. You can leave your vehicle at the gate or at

the lodge. You can combine any combination of lunch, game drive (open vehicle with tracker), and evening dinner.

http://www.sanctuaryretreats.com/luxury-safari-south-africa-makanyane

Lynette: enquiries@makanyane.com

+27(0)147789600 , +27(0)835017837

Cross at the Sikwane border and follow the road south for 8 km.

Sikwane closes at 7pm so if you stay for dinner you will have to

cross back at Tlokweng, taking the gravel but excellent R47 road to the Tlokweng border crossing.

No park entrance

fee. R250 for lunch,

R350pp for a game drive

(shared with other

guests), R350 for dinner.

Etali Lodge*

This 5 star lodge offers a 3 course lunch (eg springbok carpaccio, grilled salmon, and pear sorbet for example), a spa (around R600 per hour for

treatments) and the usual game drive (in covered vehicles with a tracker). Enter by the Abjaterskop

Gate.

http://www.etalisafari.co.za/

Conny Sibanda: conny@etalisafari.co.za

+27 (0) 12 346 0124

Cross at Tlokweng and drive south to the Abjaterskops Gate. From Abjaterskop turn left and

drive 2km, turn right on to the tar road, drive 1km, turn left

onto a tar road, drive 560m, turn right onto a tar road and look for the Etali signs.

R160 to enter the park. R350

for lunch, R2,250 for

a game drive.

20

4. Ideas for a long weekend

Of course you already know that Moremi, Chobe, Zimbabwe, Kruger, Cape Town, Durban, Namibia, Lesotho, Swaziland, Mozambique etc. all make excellent holiday

destinations. However you need a least a week to make the journey worthwhile. If you only have a long weekend consider the following....

Tuli Block

Less well known than the Okavango delta and Chobe National Park. Your guidebook will give a good overview. Accommodation is chiefly luxury lodges,

Mashatu gets good reviews. Limpopo River Lodge is the only mid-range option in the area.

http://mashatu.com/

http://limpoporiverlodge.co.za/

7 hours from Gaborone, heading up the A1 and turning right at Malhalapye.

Mashatu around P2,000

pppn. Limpopo

River Lodge P400 pppn

(chalet) P120 pppn

camping.

Salt Pans

Chapter 14 of The Bradt Guide to Botswana details

two islands in Sua Pan:

Kubu Island. You will have heard of this one it is now a managed private concession, and you need to

book a camp site in advance. Kubu has some beautiful rocky scenery, with baobabs galore.

However it costs upwards of P100 per person to camp (inc. entrance fees), and you dont get much for your money (no water, no facilities, only a long-drop toilet).

It is also busy, with 14 camping sites, which are often full. If you are lucky you may get an entire south

African family, complete with mobile generator and floodlighting, as your camping neighbours!

Kukonje Island. Less well known, this is free bush

camping at its best. The islands scenery is not as spectacular as Kubu, with tall grass rather than rocks

predominating, but it faces west for spectacular sunsets. Chances are others will be camping also, but the island is large and you can set up camp wherever

A 4x4 is needed for each

destination.

Kubu Island. 580km from Gabs. Go via Sewowe and

Letlhakane. The road to the pan is surprisingly rough north of

Mmatshumo, about 15km of bone-rattling stones.

Kukonje Island. 600km via

Francistown, or 650km via Sewowe and Letlhakane. This

second route avoids the busy stretches of the A1. A smooth ride on a dirt road. For

directions refer to Tracks4Africa.

https://tracks4africa.co.za/listing

s/item/w150009/

Kubu

Island and Nata Bird Sanctuary

are charged.

Elsewhere its free bush

camping.

21

you like. For the energetic you can run around the edge of the island, a lap is about 10km.

There are also 2 other places where it is fairly easy to see a salt pan:

Ryasana pan. For the more adventurous camping

on the eastern edge of the pan provides a nice place to overnight if driving up to Maun. Free bush camping.

There is a cattle post that youll drive through, the guys are friendly, but their dogs are not! Use a GPS and Google Earth to plot your route.

Nata Bird Sanctuary. The lodges in Nata offer sundowner trips to the edge of Sua Pan here, and you

can self drive also, paying a small fee. This is perhaps the easiest way to get to the edge of a salt pan.

Of course there is Nxai Pan and Makgadikgadi Pan, but

these require staying at a lodge. Consult your travel agent.

Ryasana pan. 550km from Gabs, with 10km on a bumpy two-spoor track past a cattle post

down to the edge of the pan. Plan your route with a GPS and

Google Earth.

https://goo.gl/VRpEIx

Nata Bird Sanctuary. 604km

from Gabs. Good place to break up a journey to Kasane or Vic

Falls.

For any salt pan visit stick to the

dry season (April October)

Tsabong*

The Camelus descendents of the 1920s Police Camel Corps are being used as part of a community tourism

project. Details are still sketchy there are rumours that you can milk a camel, eat camel cheese, floss their teeth, as well as ride them.

The Y Care Trust run an annual trip to Tsabong every winter.

http://www.ycare.org.bw/index.php?aid=21

520km from Gabs, passing Jwaneng on a good tarred road.

There are two lodges in the vicinity:

http://www.phirimagameranch.c

om/

http://www.cornwallsafaris.co.za

Unknown

Bulawayo

Exuding a certain dilapidated English charm, Bulawayo

has a fine art gallery, lovely railway museum, some good restaurants, and the Cyrene Mission and Matapos national park nearby. The city is a good place to buy

arts and crafts, the Mzilikazi Art Centre is a particular favourite for decorated bowls and plates. You can buy

enough pieces to fill a display cabinet for about $50.

630km from Gaborone, crossing

at Plumtree. Research the latest paperwork necessities before leaving (you may need copies of

car registration docs etc.)

Pula are

accepted, rand or US$ prefer

red

22

5. Hints & Tips

Private game lodges

Private game lodges are the jewels in the weekend trips from Gaborones crown. There are dozens within striking distance of Gabs, most of which are in Limpopo, and some around Swartruggens and Rustenburg in Northwest Province.

These lodges exist on the back of Johannesburg and Pretorias money with city-dwellers demanding high standards of accommodation and service for their weekend getaways. Youll notice that the further away from Gauteng a lodge is, the better value it is, although there are exceptions. Many of these lodges cater to both photographic and hunting safaris, and whilst you dont have to approve of so-called consumptive tourism it is important to recognise that many of the lodges you will visit only exist because of hunting.

Pretty much every private game lodge is owned, and most are managed, by white Afrikaner South Africans, with Limpopo in particular being one of the least progressive provinces in the new South Africa - you need to be prepared for some striking race divides which are thankfully absent in Botswana. Rural Limpopo is particularly poor so your visit will be helping an underdeveloped region.

Most private game lodges offer vegetarian safaris meaning there are no predators, no rhino, and no elephant this means you can take your bicycles or hiking boots and go and explore it can be quite magical to cycle in the bush in the late afternoon sun and stumble across a giraffe, or a herd of kudu munching on a thorn bush. A GPS is certainly useful here to avoid getting lost, even if it is only on your smartphone. Nokias Here app (https://pages.here.com/app/) for Android & Iphone is free and has offline maps for Botswana, South Africa and elsewhere.

Typically private game lodges are self catering with ubiquitous braai facilities and fire pits. This helps to keep levels of privacy up and the costs down. Where restaurants do exist the quality of the food is usually excellent with big juicy steaks being in the ascendancy.

When organising your trip email is usually best. You want to check if there are any hunting parties visiting that weekend, and there is no harm saying you are shopping around and what is the best rate they can offer. Offering to pay cash helps

here. Sometimes you will get 10-20% off the listed price. Booking direct with the lodge, rather than through SafariNow

or other website can work out cheaper as the lodge has no commission to pay. Note however that some email addresses wont be replied to and some lodges listed on various websites closed their doors years ago.

Finally be very clear where the entrance to your chosen lodge is ask for GPS coordinates, print out some google maps, and make sure you have the phone number of the lodge and a working phone in case you get lost. Most lodges are

signposted, but only if you come from the direction of Gauteng.

23

This guide is based upon lodges which were personally visited, however the *ed entries are other places not visited but worth considering, the information for *ed entries is only based upon website and other sources.

Hiking in Botswana (aka bushwhacking)

As you will have noticed, Botswana is blessed with some impressive outdoor scenery rolling hills covered in bush extending to the horizon, gorges and dried-up river beds, bush tracks leading to remote cattle posts... all waiting to be explored. However, the lack of people and lack of farmland means that there are not many paths and hence much of the

bush is impenetrable. Hence if you are climbing Monalanong Hill or Mount Otse it is advisable to take gardening gloves and a pair of gardening pruners to clip your way through the bush. Sturdy shoes, hard wearing trousers and a GPS are

also highly recommended.

Driving on gravel roads

Most likely you have driven on gravel / graded / dirt / unpaved roads already, but just in case a few points to note:

1. Graded roads usually have a sweet spot speed, whereby once you are above 60 or 80kph your vehicle skims across the top of the bumps and the drive is much smoother.

2. Slow down for the corners all the near misses Ive had on gravel roads have been caused by taking a corner too fast

3. Experiment with tyre pressures. Lower pressures can make for a smoother ride so generally you dont want the

24

pressure to be any higher than the recommendation for your vehicle. However higher tyre pressures can be a good idea for long journeys on tarmac (better fuel economy and lower tyre wear) so if you are combining gravel and

motorway you may want to adjust your tyre pressures en route.

4. Know how to change a tyre on your vehicle, and be sure that your spare is inflated and that you have the tools

for the job. Some gravel roads are in the middle of nowhere and there is no passing traffic, and possibly no phone reception, hence you cant rely on the help of passing motorists. Loosen and hand-tighten every wheel nut on your vehicle some wheel nuts may have been air-gunned and impossible to loosen you dont want to discover this when you have a flat tyre in the middle of nowhere go to a tyre shop in Gabs and ask them to loosen your stuck nuts.

Gravel roads at night.

It isnt advisable to drive a gravel road you have never driven before at night (partly because you cant drive slowly given the sweet-spot phenomena) you can get caught out by a sharp bend or rutted section. However night-time gravel driving has the advantage of your headlights throwing a shadow on the road that highlights the bumps and potholes that

you may not see in daylight. In farming areas animals dozing on gravel roads are a worry, even in South Africa.

Routes to Lephalele, Thabazimbi, Northam, and Rustenburg on gravel roads (see Maps)

As soon as you cross the Sikwane border you are faced with gravel roads. Generally these are good quality, but some are

better than others, some are wider than others, and some turn in to tarmac sooner than others. The summer rains throw a spanner in the works however, and what was once a beautiful smooth gravel road can turn in to a rutted half-

flooded track within one week.

Money saving tips.

Do your grocery shopping in South Africa. There is a big PicknPay in Thabazimbi, a PicknPay in Northam, a Spar in Zeerust and other supermarkets in Rustenburg and Gauteng. Generally prices are about 5-15% lower in SA than

Gaborone, once you take the exchange rate in to account. Prices of eggs, milk and alcohol, which you will need to

smuggle in to Botswana, are 25% or more lower in SA. If you have the time and patience you can also claim back the 14% VAT from South Africa, your tax invoices (receipts) will need to total less than R1,400 per person when you cross the

border and you will need to get your receipts / tax invoices stamped at the Tlokweng border by both SARS and BURS, then pop along to the SARS office hidden in the Main Mall in Gabs. See http://www.taxrefunds.co.za/ for further details.

Fill your car in Botswana. Fuel is always cheaper in Botswana. In South Africa fuel gets cheaper nearer the ports.

Get your (European) hair cut in South Africa (!) A lot better value than Gabs.

25

6. City Guide Mafikeng

See page 6.

Rustenburg There is not much happening here. No museums, no art galleries, no theatre. The Royal Bafokeng stadium on the

outskirts hosts the occasional sporting event, whilst the Waterfall Mall on the N4 has diverted most of the middle class money away from the old downtown. The Waterfall Mall has the usual cinema complex and a Cape Town Fish Market

offers the best food in town. Many shops close at lunchtime on Saturdays and stay closed until Monday. A good place to

get your car serviced, buy a new set of tyres, or pick up DIY supplies.

Pretoria Offering a surprising collection of historical and cultural attractions Pretoria can fill a couple of weekend trips before you

exhaust the sights. Your guidebook will give a better overview than we have space for here but if you are interested in South African history it is worth stopping by Paul Krugers House and the Mapungubwe Collection at the University of Pretoria. You can take a stream train trip with http://friendsoftherail.com/ to the Cullinan diamond mine, which is interesting if Botswana has peaked your interest in precious stones.

For sleeping be aware that there is little reason to stay in Pretorias CBD (which is scruffy and largely shut at night) Brooklyn and the south-east are the most pleasant suburbs. Note that Pretoria North isnt really Pretoria, being north of the Wonderboom ridge and a 20 minute drive to the CBD. One of Africas few Korean restaurants is in the Lynnwood suburb to the east (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Seoul-Garden-Korean-Restaurant/333648196667295 ).

Soweto This township has transformed itself over the past 20 years, and can now justify a weekend trip of its own, rather than as

an add-on to a visit to Joburg. A sample weekend could be staying in a nice bed & breakfast in Orlando West, walking

down to Mandelas house Saturday morning, Hector Pieterson memorial on Saturday afternoon. Saturday evening you can go for dinner and / or a movie at the Maponya Mall, or see if there is a play on at the Soweto theatre. Sunday you can

visit the Apartheid Museum, or take a bicycle tour of Soweto through one of the backpacker lodges, before driving back to Gabs. Sure to be an eye-opening trip.

26

Johannesburg

Whoa! Now this is a city. Your guidebook will give a comprehensive overview but here are a few hints and tips, and a few places that may get overlooked.

Firstly Joburg is safe - dont worry.

Second dont just stay in the bland comforts of the Rosebank - Sandton strip, especially after your first visit.

Third take a good map / GPS Road signs are not Jozis strong point and you can get swept along by the traffic and end up miles from where you planned getting lost is a rite of passage!

Fourth some attractions close lunchtime on Saturday and stay closed until Monday. Check opening times of museums and art galleries and plan accordingly.

Neighbourhoods see Joburg Places by Gerald Garner for the best guide to the city. http://www.joburgplaces.com/

Braamfontein home to the excellent Orbit jazz club and the affordable EasyHotel. The Neighbourgoods market is popular with the middle classes on Saturday morning.

Maboneng arty enclave in a sketchy area of the CBD. Home to the 12 Decades art hotel, the Sunday Market on Main, the Biosphere cinema and a collection of quirky art galleries and restaurants.

Melville this was the place back in 2005, but became more scruffy in the run up to the World Cup. However as of 2014 it has bounced back and is again a nice place to stay, browse for secondhand books and sip a coffee. Not the best place for an evening meal however.

Greenside a pleasant low-key restaurant strip with an excellent vegetarian (http://www.thegreensidecafe.co.za/) Parkview near Zoo Lake, a selection of nice cafes situated along Tyronne Avenue. Parkhurst - 4th Avenue has a strip of nice pavement cafes and restaurants Parktown North some good restaurants where 7th Avenue intersects 3rd Avenue llovo next door to Santon some good eating options

Off-the-beaten-track places your guidebook may have overlooked:

44 Stanley nice collection of restaurants and artsy shops - the centre of an interesting urban regeneration project

Lindfield Victorian House Museum crazy and absorbing glimpse in to 19th century Joburg life.

Alexandra township a bicycle tour is truly fascinating. http://www.alexandratours.co.za/

Johannesburg Art Gallery An oasis of calm in a sea of urban deprivation, free

Wits University has the Origins Centre and the Wits Art Gallery, both are good, and open on Saturdays and Sundays

Constitution Hill In a similar vein to the Apartheid Museum the South African Constitutional Court set around the infamous Fort prison is a fascinating place - part museum and part art gallery. Free / cheap

China town out near the East Rand mall is a good and cheap selection of Chinese shops and restaurants

27

7. Maps and Routes Route A.

This is an excellent route to get to Lephalele and the lodges north of Thabazimbi. If you are in a normal saloon this is probably the safest way to get to Thabazimbi.

Route B.

The most direct route to Thabazimbi The stretch of gravel before Dwaalboom is bad after the rains. The tarmac from Dwaalboom is fine all the way to Thabazimbi, with little traffic except the occasional truck serving Portland cement works.

Route C.

With patches of gravel, tarmac and brick paving this is quite a rough route that is not recommended for normal saloons, even in the dry season. It is the quickest way to Northam but you may want to consider Route B to Thabazimbi and then

heading south on the R510 for a less bumpy journey.

The R47 versus the Modipane Sikwane road. Generally the Modipane Sikwane gravel road is excellent, and allows quick passage to the quiet Sikwane border crossing. However the R47 in South Africa, 30 km of gravel

that runs between the Tlokweng border and the Sikwane/ Derdepoort border on the South African side (sandwiched between the border fence and the

Madikwe Game Reserve) to the is also excellent, and offers the chance to see elephants munching on bush next to Madikwes northern fence. Consider the R47 if it has been raining; (the Modipane Sikwane road can turn swampy) or if the sun is setting and you are going west towards Gaborone (the

Modipane Sikwane road sees a lot of traffic, which throws up lots of dust, which combined with a sunset can make visibility almost zero).

The D1339 shortcut.

If it hasnt been raining, and you have a sturdy bakkie or 4x4 this is a good route to access areas southeast of Madikwe all the way to Rustenburg. It is also a way of avoiding the 75 rand Swartruggens toll when heading to Johannesburg, without

it taking any more time. However after the rains the D1339 can be a bit rutted in places, and there may be pools of water

spanning the width of the road. To take this route road turn left off the Zeerust road where you see the sign to Groot Marico. It turns to gravel after 200 metres and returns to tarmac after 35km.

R47 Modipane

Sikwane road

28

Route A - https://goo.gl/502pFx

The least bumpy of the routes to Limpopo with only 32km of gravel on the South African side. The D2460 past the (closed) Atherstone Nature Reserve is a good and empty stretch of tarmac that you can do 100kph+ on, although there are some

potholes and bush encroachment from the verge. If you are in a normal saloon this is probably the safest way to get to Thabazimbi, but it is 45 km longer than Route B.

231 km Sikwane Lephalele. 168 km Sikwane Thabazimbi. 213 km Sikwane Northam

Gravel

road

Potholes

(D2460)

29

Route B - https://goo.gl/UjQOA6

A good route in a bakkie or 4x4, slower going for a saloon, with 51km of moderately bumpy gravel on the South African

side. The stretch before Dwaalboom can get very bad after rain. From Dwaalboom to Thabazimbi the tarmac is good and almost empty.

123 km Sikwane Thabazimbi, 165 km Sikwane Northam.

Gravel

road

30

Route C https://goo.gl/YWbu3u

Bumpy route with around 90km on gravel on the South African side. This route is quite an adventure, passing the huge Portland cement works south of Dwaalboom. Not recommended for first-timers. Bakkie or 4x4 needed.

114 km Sikwane Northam

Gravel

road

Gravel

road

31

Route to Sun City / Rustenburg - https://goo.gl/q4lRUw

Moderately bumpy route with about 58km of gravel on the South African side. Cross at Sikwane and continue to the T junction, turn left and continue to Dwarsberg, where the tarmac starts. From there its an easy drive down to Sun City or Rustenburg. For Pretoria continue past Sun City and join the N4 just before Brits. I rarely used this route for the return to Gabs, as Sikwane border closes at 7pm, and these gravel back roads are less pleasant in the dark. Note that the T-

Junction isnt shown correctly in Google Maps. 120 km Sikwane Sun City, 158 km Sikwane Rustenburg

Sun

City

Gravel

road

T-Junction

32

Route to Johannesburg using the D1339 shortcut - https://goo.gl/jgVpCb

A good route to avoid the Swartruggens Toll on the N4 if you have a 4x4 or a bakkie. Turn left at the Groot Marico sign on to the D1339. 30km of OK gravel and then good tarmac. Lots of speed bumps going through Pella and Tlokweng on the D114, turn right at Lindleyspoort and head to Swartruggens and the N4. Take the Koster road for Joburg, stay on the

N4 for Pretoria.

363km Gaborone Johannesburg via D1339, 372km Gaborone Johannesburg via Zeerust

D1339

Gravel

road

R75

toll

Lots of

speed

bumps