TRIP REPORT

BALI TO KOMODO 29 October to 7 November 2014

MV Mermaid I, Rinca

Sperm Whale off Lombok Komodo Dragons

By tour leader Dr Chas Anderson

WildWings / WildOceans Tel: 0117-9658-333

Email: tours@wildwings.co.uk

Web: www.wildwings.co.uk

BALI TO KOMODO Indonesia, 29 Oct to 7 Nov 2014

Summary A wonderful 10-day wildlife cruise from Bali to Komodo and back. There were plenty of cetacean

sightings, with ten species recorded in all, including hundreds of Spotted, Spinner, Fraser’s and

Bottlenose Dolphins, as well as Melon-headed Whales and Sperm Whales. Seabirds were also

plentiful, with key species including Abbott’s Booby, Streaked Shearwater, Bulwer’s Petrel, Golden

Bosunbird and Christmas Island Frigatebird. While birding on land we picked up several very nice

species including Orange-footed Scrubfowl (=Megapode), Yellow-crested Cockatoo and Helmeted

Friarbird. However, the big terrestrial attraction was the Komodo Dragon. We had walks ashore on

both Komodo itself and Rinca, with many Dragons seen both times. For many, though, the best

encounters were on a beach at the southern tip of Rinca where we could view the Dragons from the

safety of our launches, just a few feet offshore. There was also plenty of time for snorkelling (and

diving for some), which was world-class. The coral reefs were magnificent, and diversity of reef

fishes overwhelming. But highlight must be our visits to Manta Alley at the southern end of Komodo

Island, where we twice enjoyed fabulous encounters with Manta Rays. All this on the very

comfortable MV Mermaid I, where we were pampered by the delightful crew, and overindulged by

the chefs.

Day 1, Wednesday 29 Oct 2014

After arriving in Bali at different times we all

converged on our expedition vessel, MV

Mermaid I, in the early afternoon. The engines

were soon started and we were off, with our

safety briefing and orientation talk still

underway.

MV Mermaid I

We were soon out in the channel between Bali

and Nusa Penida, and heading northeast

towards Lombok. Among the birds seen were

three gorgeous golden White-tailed

Tropicbirds (aka Golden Bosunbird), a small

flock of Bridled Terns, a trio of Brown

Boobies and a couple of migrating Barn

Swallows. Sailing up the coast of Bali we

passed the busy ferry port of Padangbai, and as

the clouds over the land dissolved we had

great views of the classic volcanic cone of

Gunung Agung (3142m). After the glorious

sunset there was time for a shower, a leisurely

drink for those who wanted, and dinner.

Day 2, Thursday 30 Oct 2014

What a fantastic day! We had sailed through

the night, past the north of Lombok, and as

dawn broke we were still heading east, off the

north coast of Sumbawa. The sea was calm

and the cetacean sightings started early, with a

glimpse of distant glimmering shapes. They

were dolphins, and as we approached they

rushed in to bowride. Now we could make out

their short snouts and small triangular dorsal

fins – Fraser’s Dolphins.

Fraser’s Dolphin

There must have been over 300 Fraser’s in all,

and then we noticed some slightly larger and

darker animals, Melon-headed Whales, of

which there were perhaps 30-40. The whole

mass of dolphins was moving slowly

westwards, and we went with them, allowing

group after group to bowride. Eventually it

was time to move on, and we turned back on

course.

Melon-headed Whales

Next up, a big group of Spotted Dolphins

(well spotted, Kenny!). They were spread out

over a wide area, but again small subgroups

readily came in to bowride. After leaving the

Spotteds it wasn’t long before our next

encounter, this time with an active group of

Common Bottlenose Dolphins. Later, looking

at our photos, we noticed a single Fraser’s

Dolphin in amongst them.

Bottlenose Dolphin

By now we were approaching Moyo Island,

and the site of our first snorkel, Angel Reef.

The reef flat here is carpeted with dense coral

growths, and supports a dazzling variety of

reef fishes. But a real highlight here is the

Banded Sea-snake (Colubrina laticauda), and

we were able to follow several as they hunted

over the shallow reef. Another attraction,

found further round the reef slope, is the dense

meadow of Garden Eels (Gorgasia

maculata).

Once we were back on board, lunch was ready

and MV Mermaid got underway. We headed

around the top of Moyo to Satonda Island.

After the morning’s rush of cetaceans, this

afternoon started rather slowly. But eventually

we found some schools of Spotted Dolphins

on the way in to Satonda. The clouds over

Sumbawa cleared as we approached, giving us

our first view of Tambora (2935m), the

volcano that in 1815 produced perhaps the

greatest eruption in recorded history. At

Satonda there was the choice of a dive or a

snorkel on the nearby reef (which among other

things produced a Blue-spotted Stingray, a

host of Anemonefishes, and numerous

Featherstars emerging to feed at dusk), or a

trip ashore (to see the crater lake, with roosting

Fruit Bats and several birds).

Banded Sea-snake

In addition to the landbirds on Satonda, out at

sea today there were Red-footed Boobies,

Brown Boobies, a Red-necked Phalarope,

Bridled Terns (one being chased by a

Pomarine Skua), a Lesser Frigatebird and a

Christmas Island Frigatebird. But the most

interesting birds seen at sea today were

migrant landbirds, including Barn Swallow,

Pacific Swift (=Fork-tailed Swift), and a most

unexpected Northern Hawk-owl (=Northern

Boobook) flying resolutely SW, which twice

alighted (briefly) on the Mermaid. This owl

breeds in East Asia and is a regular winter

visitor to Wallacea, but was still a pleasant

surprise for us. Back on board after our

various activities, there was just time to grab a

hot shower or a cold drink, and head up to the

upper deck to watch the last of the sunset and

the first of the Fruit Bats heading across from

their roost in Satonda to their feeding grounds

on Sumbawa.

Evening talk: Dolphins of Indonesia (part 1)

Day 3, Friday 31 Oct 2014

Another fabulous day! We had sailed

overnight, and as the sun came up we were

still underway, approaching Sangeang Island.

This is an active volcano, with smoke still

issuing from the crater. Near the island we

found an active group of Melon-headed

Whales and Fraser’s Dolphins. And a single

Lesser Frigatebird sailed overhead. Soon

after anchoring we were into the dinghies for

our morning snorkel or dive, at the site known

as ‘Hot Rocks’. Here gas bubbles up from the

sea floor, and the underlying rocks are, if not

exactly hot, then certainly warm. Soft corals

were especially abundant here. And on the

vertical surfaces of the rocks, bright orange

Tubastrea corals were thriving. Other

highlights included an extremely well

camouflaged Scorpionfish, several

Nudibranchs, and an Octopus.

Volcanic gas at ‘Hot Rocks’

Back on board, breakfast was soon ready and

we were off. After leaving Sangeang, it was

not long before we had our next cetacean

sighting: a mixed group of Fraser’s and

Risso’s Dolphins. The Fraser’s bowrode, but

the Risso’s avoided us. Several did, however,

lift their flukes up in the air, in their

characteristic style. Soon after leaving this big

group we found another small school of

Risso’s Dolphins, but they also avoided us, so

we moved on.

Nudibranch sea-slug (Nembrotha cristata)

Near Gili Banta we came across an

aggregation of some 80+ Red-footed Boobies,

feeding in association with a large group of

Spotted Dolphins and there were Spinner

Dolphins too. We spent a long time here,

enjoying the Spotteds’ bowriding and

energetic leaps. By the time we left, it was

time for late lunch. Soon afterwards we

anchored in Mota Bay, at the northern end of

Komodo Island. All into the dinghies for

snorkelling or diving on the nearby reef, which

was covered with luxuriant growths of hard

corals, soft corals and sea fans. There were

numerous schools of fish, giant sea anemones

with Anemonefishes, a giant Batfish and

Sweetlips.

As we moved on from this site, the breeze,

which had picked up earlier in the afternoon,

died away completely, and the sea became

mirror-calm. Further round the coast we

spotted our final cetaceans of the day, a small

school of Spinner Dolphins. The sun set

behind Komodo.

Birds today included a smattering of Red-

necked Phalaropes, one Lesser Frigatebird,

a Whiskered Tern which flew around the

boat first thing, a Barn Swallow, Pacific

Swifts, White-bellied Sea-eagle and an

unidentified Buzzard.

Evening talk: Dolphins of Indonesia (part 2).

And after dinner, cake: Happy Birthday Dave!

Day 4, Saturday 1 Nov 2014

We woke to a lovely calm, sunny day,

anchored off Rinca Island. The dinghies took

us on the short run ashore, where we were met

by a small troop of Long-tailed Macaques. At

the ranger station, our guides were waiting,

armed with stout forked sticks to ward off any

over-interested Komodo Dragons. And there

were plenty about, with five medium-sized

individuals, plus a couple of smaller ones, just

nearby. A walk with the rangers through the

woods produced another Dragon, this time a

large female on her nesting area. The nests are

dug out initially by Megapodes (=Orange-

footed Scrubfowl), a pair of which were

scratching through the undergrowth just

nearby. Other birds seen included Yellow-

spectacled White-eye, Great Tit, Wallacean

Drongo, Imperial Green Pigeon and Large-

billed Crow. There were Timor Deer (Rusa)

too.

Back on board, there was time for a cooling

shower before a very welcome breakfast. Just

as we had finished, and were getting underway

a White-bellied Sea-eagle swooped down to

pick up some morsel from the sea surface just

alongside. Our cruise across to Tatawa Besar

island produced two sightings of Indo-pacific

Bottlenose Dolphins, both small groups

hunting along reef edges for fish.

Swedish Flag Angelfish

At Tatawa Besar we enjoyed a superb snorkel

(and dive for two) on the long reef. With

wonderful visibility and bright midday light,

the corals looked magnificent. And the fishlife

was perhaps the most diverse we had seen so

far. I counted nine species of Angelfish alone.

There were also Blacktip Reef Sharks, and

several Hawksbill Turtles, feeding on the

reef.

Hawksbill Turtle

Back on board it was time for lunch. Then we

were off, cruising across to Gililawa Darat

island, for our second snorkel and dive. Here

the visibility was not quite so good as before,

but the corals were if anything even more

impressive. And the fishlife again was

stunning. Among the several highlights: a

really giant Bumphead Parrotfish, a

filterfeeding Sea Cucumber, Spotfin

Lionfish and more Hawksbill Turtles.

It was now time to start heading towards our

night’s anchorage at Komodo. As the sun set,

we made our way southwards over the mirror

calm sea. In such conditions we were able to

spot no fewer than three large Manta Rays.

But highlight for many was a new bird for the

trip, Streaked Shearwater.

Evening talk: Whales of Indonesia.

Day 5, Monday 2 Nov 2014

An early-ish start with a run ashore in the

dinghies to Komodo Island. We went in two

groups: one with birders who wanted to spend

more time on the island, and the rest for a

shorter dragon walk. Both groups had close

encounters with hungry and persistent

Komodo Dragons. There were also Timor

Deer (=Rusa) and the birders had a nice clutch

of sightings, including Yellow-crested

Cockatoo, Golden Whistler, Lemon-bellied

White-eye, Green Junglefowl, Wallacean

Drongo, Flame-breasted Sunbird and

Helmeted Friarbird. Both walks ended at the

small market, which offered a tempting range

of locally carved dragons.

After breakfast we set off into the deep-water

Linta Strait. We spotted Spinner Dolphins

almost immediately and spent a little time

them, before moving on towards the southern

tip of Komodo Island. Here we anchored and

set out for our snorkel or dive at Manta Alley.

The Mantas were moving from the Alley

round to the outer rocks, so we moved around

too. Within seconds of jumping in there were

Mantas beneath us. For some time there were

just ones and twos, but gradually the numbers

built up, and before the last of us got out of the

water there perhaps 20 swimming along the

reef. For the divers too there was a continuous

succession of Mantas. Wow!

Manta Ray

We all returned to the boat abuzz with

excitement, and ready for our late lunch. As

we moved off, we passed through a school of

Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins. Offshore

there were hundreds of Red-necked

Phalaropes, and good numbers of

Frigatebirds. But our big sighting was of

Spotted Dolphins. We found an enormous

school, perhaps 600-strong, charging across

the ocean. As we travelled with them, small

groups rushed in to ride our bow. We finally

left this superpod, and headed back in to the

Linta Strait. Despite the calm conditions we

did not find any cetaceans, and as the sun set

we turned in towards our anchorage at

Komodo.

Evening talk: Alfred Russel Wallace.

Day 6, Tuesday 3 Nov 2014

The sea was mirror-calm again when we woke.

At 0730 we were off in the dinghies for our

morning snorkel and dive at Pink Beach. The

wide reef was covered with soft corals and

hydrozoans, as well as a smattering of sea

fans. A big Cuttlefish and a couple of

Hawksbill Turtles also kept us happy.

Heading out into Linta Strait we passed the

regular group of Spinner Dolphins. As usual,

they were dozy after their night’s feeding, and

avoided us when we approached. So we left

them and sailed out into the deep water. Here

we found a largish group of Indo-pacific

Bottlenose Dolphins, which gave several

good views.

As we rounded the southern tip of Rinca,

Brown Boobies were flying in to what

appeared like nest sites on the steep cliffs of

Pulau Nusakode. Offshore, we found a large

mixed school of Spotted and Spinner

Dolphins. They were charging across the

ocean, and we turned to travel with them. In

due course we left them and continued on our

way. There were thousands of Red-necked

Phalaropes, more Brown Boobies and some

Common Terns, but unfortunately despite the

continuing flat calm conditions we did not find

any more cetaceans.

We completed a wide circuit, arriving back at

Horseshoe Bay at the very south of Rinca in

time for our afternoon excursions. First, a trip

to the beach for everyone to see the Komodo

Dragons. There were three out on the beach,

and they lurched down to the very shoreline as

we approached. Once everyone had had a good

look, and a chance to take plenty of photos, it

was back to the main boat. We then diverged,

with some going for a snorkel (enjoying Blue-

spotted Stingray, soft corals and featherstars),

others for a dive, and the rest back to the

beach. There we spent time again with the

large Dragons at one end of the beach.

However, another couple of slightly smaller

Dragons had wandered on to the other end. On

our way back to the boat we diverted to have a

look at them. They were busy eyeing each

other up for a fight, hissing and then erupting

into a fierce but brief tussle. There was still

time for another change of boats, with an

opportunity for one dinghy to go in search of

birds, while the other headed back to the

Dragons.

Komodo Dragons tussling

After a superb sunset, bats appeared in the

lights behind the boat. Those who wanted

headed off for an exciting night dive on a

nearby reef.

Day 7, Tuesday 4 Nov 2014

We left Rinca before dawn, to make the

crossing over to Komodo. With a calm sea we

made good time, although we did divert for a

large school of Spotted Dolphins, which

rushed in to bowride.

Spotted Dolphins

At south Komodo we anchored near Manta

Alley, although such a current was running

that we had to move anchorage before the

Captain was happy. A check of the site

showed that the current was very strong

indeed, so we decided to wait until it

moderated. Just 30 minutes later we were in

the water. Within seconds we had seen

Mantas swimming underneath. Several were

passing to and fro along the reef edge beneath

us. For a few minutes they seemed to

disappear, but then they reappeared in even

greater numbers. There may have been 20 or

more in our small area, some up to nearly 3m

across, with up to 5 in view at one time. After

over an hour we reluctantly pulled ourselves

out of the water, and returned to the boat,

tingling with excitement.

Manta Ray

After breakfast we set off, up the Sape Strait,

along the west coast of Komodo. There were a

few Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins as we

left our anchorage, then a large mixed school

of Spotted and Spinner Dolphins, with

Lesser Frigatebirds in attendance. Not long

afterwards we found a few more Indo-pacific

Bottlenose. After that we had several Sailfish,

jumping and swimming at the surface. But the

highlight of this transit was undoubtedly

provided by the seabirds. There were several

Bulwer’s Petrels on passage, flying south and

west down the Strait. And just after noon we

spotted a Wilson’s Storm-petrel, which

approached close enough for photos to show

the characteristic yellow webbing on the black

feet. This was interesting enough, but just 10

minutes later we approached a white-looking

booby sitting on the water. Only as we passed

alongside and it took off did we realise that it

was an Abbott’s Booby – bird of the trip for

some. Later there were more Red-footed

Boobies, a second Wilson’s Storm-petrel,

and a distant viewing of a Pomarine Skua

chasing what looked like another Abbott’s

Booby. And there were land birds too, with

both Barn Swallows and Pacific Swifts

crossing over from Sumbawa to Komodo.

Off the northern tip of Komodo some distant

splashing drew us offshore. It was another

large school of Spotted Dolphins, with Red-

footed Boobies in attendance. Again they

rushed in to bowride, providing some

wonderful photo opportunities. With the day

drawing on, it was time to turn towards our

next anchorage, off the island of Gililawa.

This is the setting off point to visit the offshore

pinnacle of Crystal Rock for our late afternoon

snorkel or dive. And what a great one! With

superb visibility, luxuriant soft corals and

abundant fish life, it really is a cracking site.

Highlight for the divers were the sharks – with

some 7-8 Whitetip Reef Sharks and one

Grey Reef Shark hanging in front of the

current point.

Evening talk: Wildlife photography, by Tom

Day 8, Wednesday 5 Nov 2014

The morning started with a snorkel or dive off

Gill Lawalaut, at Lighthouse Point. On the

boat out some spotted Indo-pacific Bottlenose

Dolphins, and a pair of Ospreys (with a

massive nest on the light post). There was also

a Spotted Kestrel on the island. The reef itself

was gorgeous – patches of hard and soft coral

interspersed with white coral sand, reflecting

the bright morning light. The current changed

at least twice during our snorkel, which made

for an interesting time in the water.

Back on board for breakfast and we were off,

heading westwards on the start of our long

transit back towards Bali. Not long after

setting off some splashes drew us towards

some Spinner Dolphins, which bowrode

exuberantly. Among the seabirds seen during

the morning were several Bulwer’s Petrels

heading SW on passage, and a single Streaked

Shearwater. Later we spotted a Wilson’s

Storm-petrel and a Skua, probably an Arctic

Skua, harassing a Red-footed Booby.

As we approached Sangeang volcano, we

could see smoke billowing from the main

crater, and a new fissure on its flank. But

before we arrived we had three more cetacean

encounters. First, a couple of prau manching

(local fishing boats) attracted our attention. As

suspected, they were fishing for tuna in

association with Spotted Dolphins, which

seemed happy to bowride. Next, a distant

sighting of a cetacean back. We moved closer

and waited, and were rewarded with two

beaked whales surfacing. We moved closer

again, and again saw them clearly at the

surface, although not quite clearly enough to

allow specific identification. Then as we made

our final approach to Sangeang a tight bunch

of dolphins surfaced directly in front of us.

They immediately moved away so we could

not be sure what they were, but once they

surfaced again we could see that they were

Fraser’s Dolphins – our fifth species for the

day.

The reef on the south side of Sangeang

provided us with a superb dive and snorkel.

The black coral sand contrasting nicely with

the corals. At depth the reef was luxuriantly

covered with corals, hydroids, sponges and an

astonishing array of featherstars, many of

which were luminous lime green. Also present

were many technicolor nudibranchs and an

orang-utan crab. Afterwards, we continued

westwards, with the sun setting over Sumbawa

ahead of us, and the full moon rising over

Sangeang astern.

Evening talk: Tuna fisheries and cetaceans.

Day 9, Thursday 6 Nov 2014

Our last full day on board, and a great one!

Mermaid had travelled overnight, and when

we woke this morning we were anchored off

Moyo Island, near the small fishing village of

Labuanhaji. There was a choice of a snorkel at

Angel Reef, or a dive at the adjacent Little

Angel Reef. For both, the water was

exceptionally clear, and at both sites there

were the same great corals, schools of fishes,

and Banded Sea-snakes. For the divers there

were also Jawfish holding eggs in their

mouths, Mantis Shrimp, and a wonderful

Lionfish.

Common Lionfish with Featherstars

Back on board, after breakfast, we were off,

heading west towards Lombok and Bali. The

sea was still calm, and got even calmer as the

day progressed. There were several seabirds

about including Brown Boobies, Bridled

Terns, at least one Pomarine Skua, a

Wilson’s Storm-petrel and several Bulwer’s

Petrels.

Our cetacean sightings started with a superbly

energetic group of Bottlenose Dolphins. After

spending some time with them, we passed

seamlessly on to a school of Spotted

Dolphins. Not long afterwards we had more

Spotted Dolphins, and then a distant sighting

of 6 or more large whales, possibly Sperm

Whales. We approached the spot where they

had been logging, but could not find them. We

waited and waited, but nothing appeared. This

was the start of a rather frustrating interlude

with perfect viewing conditions but no

cetacean sightings. Our luck finally changed

late in the afternoon, as we were approaching

Lombok. A small group of Spotted Dolphins,

this time with local fishing boats, caught our

attention. Then not far off the boat’s side a

mother and calf Dwarf Sperm Whale

surfaced. We watched them for some time

before noticing a much larger Sperm Whale

in the distance, which promptly fluked. But as

we made our way in that direction another

appeared, and then four more, plus a couple of

Pilot Whales, one of which spy-hopped. As

the sun dipped over Lombok, silhouetting the

giant volcano Rinjani, we had Sperm Whales

ahead in the orange glow of the setting sun,

and more astern in the glimmering silver

reflection of the full moon. What a stunning

finale!

Evening presentation: Trip video.

Day 10, Friday 7 Nov 2014

Breakfast was served as we made our final

approach to Bali. We docked at Benoa at 0800,

and disembarked soon after.

Sangeang Volcano

CETACEANS

During this trip we recorded a very respectable total of 48 sightings, of 10 different species:

Species

Scientific Name No.

Sightings

Est. no.

Individuals

Spotted Dolphin Stenella attenuata 14 2308

Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris 7 455

Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops aduncus 2 130

Common Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops truncatus 7 72

Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops sp. 1 3

Risso’s Dolphin Grampus griseus 2 50

Fraser’s Dolphin Lagenodolphis hosei 5 600

Melon-headed Whale Peponocephala electra 2 130

Pilot Whale Globicephala macrorhynchus 1 2

Sperm Whale Physeter macrocephalus 1 6

Dwarf Sperm Whale Kogia sima 1 2

Beaked Whale Ziphiidae 1 2

Unidentified cetacean 4 12

48 3772

White-tailed Tropicbird (Golden Bosun)

BIRDS

Orange-footed Scrubfowl Pomarine Skua

Green Junglefowl Metallic Pigeon

Little Grebe Island Collared Dove

Bulwer’s Petrel Spotted Dove

Streaked Shearwater Barred Dove

Wilson’s Storm-petrel Green Imperial Pigeon

White-tailed Tropicbird Yellow-crested Cockatoo

Abbott’s Booby Northern Boobook

Brown Booby Cave Swiftlet

Red-footed Booby Fork-tailed Swift

Australian Pelican Collared Kingfisher

Christmas Island Frigatebird Sacred Kingfisher

Lesser Frigatebird Blue-tailed Bee-eater

Great-billed Heron Helmeted Friarbird

Pacific Reef-heron Large-billed Crow

Striated Heron Black-naped Monarch

Osprey Barn Swallow

Brahminy Kite Pacific Swallow

White-bellied Sea-eagle Great (Cinereous) Tit

Japanese Sparrowhawk Yellow-vented Bulbul

Spotted Kestrel Pied Bushchat

Beach Thick-knee Golden Whistler

Common Sandpiper Yellow-spectacled White-eye

Whimbrel Plain-throated Sunbird

Red-necked Phalarope Olive-backed Sunbird

Bridled Tern Flame-breasted Sunbird

Little Tern Black-naped Oriole

Gull-billed Tern Wallacean Drongo

Great Crested Tern White-breasted Wood-swallow

Lesser Crested Tern

Contact details

WildWings Tel: 01179658 333

Email: tours@wildwings.co.uk

Web: www.wildwings.co.uk

On Komodo