trekking colca canyon without a guide or a tour · 2018-06-24 · planning your trek in colca...

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WWW.WHERE I SYOURTOOHBRUSH. COM/C OLCA Travel the World and Eat Your Salad, Too. Toothbrush? Where is your TREKKING COLCA CANYON WITHOUT A GUIDE OR A TOUR BY PETER KORCHNAK & LINDSAY SAUVÉ

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www.whereIsYourToohbrush.com/colcaTravel the World and Eat Your Salad, Too.Toothbrush?Where is your

TREKKING COLCA CANYON WITHOUT A GUIDE OR A TOUR

by PETER KORCHNAK & LINDSAY SAUVÉ

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In this ebookIntroduction 3Planning your solo trek in Colca Canyon 4About Colca Canyon 4Weather 5Cost 5Packing list 6Safety 6Getting there 8Getting around 8

Entering the Canyon 10Trek itineraries 10Day 1: Cabanaconde to San Juan de Chuccho (or Tapay) 13Day 2: San Juan de Chuccho to Llahuar 16

Alternatives: San Juan de Chuccho to Sangalle or Fure 21Alternative 2: San Juan de Chuccho to Fure 22Side trip: Fure or Llahuar to Catarata 23

Day 3: Llahuar to Cabanaconde 24Cabanaconde 26Acknowledgments 28About the Authors 29

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IntroductionWhile you can visit Colca Canyon on an organized tour or hire a guide, it’s venturing down there independently that provides the most satisfying experience of the Canyon’s splendor.

We wrote and published the original version of this guide to trekking Colca Canyon without a guide or a tour after our visit in May 2014. At the time, we found all of three blog posts to help us plan the trip (one of those is no longer live, as of this writing). So we wrote our own guide as a way to help all those who come after us. Since then, a number of other travelers trekked the Canyon on their own and wrote about it.

Meanwhile, the article continues to be one of the most popular ones on our travel website Where Is Your Toothbrush?, pointing to its continued usefulness to hikers.

We, therefore, aspire to keep the guide up to date year-to-year, checking for and adding the most current information we can find.

This is the June 2018 edition of the guide, its 3rd, completely reorganized from last year and updated with the latest information. We hope you find it helpful.

Enjoy!

Peter & Lindsay Where Is Your Toothbrush?

Planning your trek in Colca CanyonAbout Colca CanyonWorld’s second deepest canyon, about twice as deep as the Grand Canyon at 3,270 meters / 10,730 feet , Cañón Del Colca is located 160 kilometers / 99 miles northwest of Arequipa, Peru. Named after qolqas, granaries built into mountainsides, the Canyon is about 100 kilometers / 62 miles long. The trekkable portion covered in this guide is roughly in the Canyon’s middle section.

While the Canyon has been inhabited for about 1,000 years, trekking here began in the early 1980’s; tourists started arriving in the 1990’s.

Aside from the stunning natural landscape, visitors enjoy watching giant Andean Condors soar over the Canyon, wildflowers bloom, terraced farms cascade down the hillsides, village life pass, and indigenous Quechua culture survive in nearly unchanged forms.

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Colca Canyon from the rim near Cabanaconde

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CondorsOne of world’s biggest flying birds, the Andean Condor is one of the main draws of Colca Canyon. The best place for condor watching is Mirador Cruz del Condor, between Chivay and Cabanaconde.

The spot is easy to skip if you are bussing directly to Cabanaconde (see Getting around). Add an extra day or take a very early, i.e. 1:00 a.m. bus, deboard, and either hike 2 hours or take the next bus to Cabanaconde. Alternatively, you can do this on the way back.

From inside the Canyon, specimens hover in the distance high above like tiny black crosses.

WeatherThe Colca Canyon area is drier and hotter than other parts of Peru.

Rainy season, such as it is, lasts approximately from December to March, with February being the wettest. We do not recommend trekking in the Canyon in the rainy season. Consider safety, as there’s a possibility of flash floods and landslides, and comfort. If you do come during this period, pack a poncho, water-proof shoes, and an extra change of clothes.

The rest of the year, the Canyon is dry and hot, though temperatures drop dramatically at night. The best period to visit is April thru June.

Set out on your daily hikes as early as possible in the morning. There are few trees or shelter to provide shade; by 11:00 a.m. the place is scorching. Bring or buy a lot of water.

CostHiking in Colca Canyon on your own is not only a more economical option, it’s more scenic and adventurous. A 3-day/2-night trek in Colca Canyon on your own costs a fraction of what a tour company may quote for a 1-night stay sans trekking.

For example, in 2014 we trekked three days and spent two nights in the Canyon for S/255 (USD77.70) per person, including entry fee, transportation, accommodations, and meals, while a popular tour company wanted S/480 (USD146.20) for a one-night visit inside the Canyon.

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In addition, some tour companies only dispatch tours when they reach a minimum signup quota, so even if you are ready to buy, the tour may not happen.

The permit for the Canyon is S/70 (USD21.30); a night in a hostal is S/10–20 (USD3.05–6.10), a dinner or a breakfast costs S/10. Water and snacks can be as expensive as an entire home-cooked meal.

Packing listWhether you’ve backpacked in the wilderness before or are a casual hiker, pack lightly and remember to bring these essentials:

• Hiking boots. Not sneakers, not mere hiking shoes. The trails are uneven and ascents/descents difficult.

• Hiking poles. Recommended for descents.

• Water. You can buy bottles in the villages but pack extra.

• Wide brimmed hat and sunscreen. The sun is brutal, do yourself a favor.

• Headlamp or flashlight. To access shared bathrooms at night.

• Cash. There are no ATMs.

• Toilet paper. Just do it.

• This guide. Save it on your smartphone/tablet or print it out. There is no wi-fi, except spottily in Sangalle.

SafetyBasic precautions for hiking in Colca Canyon are the same as in any wilderness area, amounting to, “Don’t do anything stupid.”

AcclimatizationColca Canyon is located at a high altitude. Take basic precautions before hiking here. Spend a few days in Arequipa first or add a night in Chivay. Take it easy on your trek, pause and drink water often. Be sure to protect yourself from the scorching sun (see Packing list above).

Walking tipsWhile hiking through Colca Canyon, keep to the middle of the path; loose rocks on the edge and uneven hillside terrain pose risk. Be

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aware of uneven ground on dirt paths. Particularly when headed down into the Canyon, proceed slowly, look under your feet, and keep your knees bent. A pair of hiking poles is recommended.

If you decide to admire the views, stop. If you encounter donkeys, scoot toward the landmass, never to the edge of the trail.

Falling rocks and landslidesThe greatest danger is falling rocks and landslides or rock slides. The key is to remain vigilant. Watch for falling rocks and for tremors announcing an imminent rockfall. If you do get caught under a rock fall, step away from the trail edge toward the mountain, pull your backpack over your head for cover, and if possible hide under or against a large rock.

If you encounter a trail buried under a small land or rock slide, walk fast over it (a path will often be already made by locals). If it looks dangerous or you hear/see signs of the slide still moving, turn back.

Scenes from in and around the Canyon

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Getting thereBuses to Cabanaconde (3,287 meters / 10,784 feet, above sea level), a sleepy town at the edge of Colca Canyon where three principal trailheads are located, depart from Terminal Terrestre in Arequipa.

Bus schedules tend to change so check ahead for the current schedule. The most frequently mentioned departure times are 1:00 a.m., 3:00 a.m., 5:00 a.m., 8:00 a.m. (we took this bus on our trek), 9:30 a.m., 11:00 a.m., 1:00 p.m., and 2:00 p.m. Get your ticket early for the popular “normal” morning times.

To overnight inside the Canyon the same day, leave Arequipa early in the morning, as steep paths can be treacherous in daylight, let alone in the dark.

Alternatively, break the trip down with a few hours in Chivay, then continue to Cabanaconde to stay the night there and hike down the next morning.

The trip from Arequipa to Cabanaconde takes 5.5–6 hours, including a stop in Chivay at the Canyon’s eastern end.

One way trip from Arequipa to Cabanaconde costs S/17 (USD5.20).

Getting aroundYou must have a boleto turistico to enter Colca Canyon. The ticket, valid for 5 days, is available for S/70 (USD21.30) from red-vested Autocolca tourism agency representatives on the bus to Cabanaconde or at the terminus on the town’s main square.

MapThe network of trails inside Colca Canyon is simple. While there is no official map available, the map on page 12 below (image courtesy of feeb) was in wide use until a few years ago. Newer maps tend to be more colorful but have the same amount of information.

FIND A HOTEL IN AREQUIPA ›

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No matter the map, they each provide a good approximation of time and elevation changes needed to hike from point to point. If you don’t see distances, don’t worry: they’re deceptive, if not useless hiking up and down the steep slopes.

If you want a paper map, stop by the Pachamama hostel and buy their 2015 map.

All hike durations in this guide are approximate ranges. Your time will vary depending on your fitness, breaks as well as the weather.

San Juan de Chuccho from the top of the trail

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Entering the CanyonThere are three principal trails down into the Canyon, all starting in Cabanaconde and all steep downgrades.

• If you are headed to San Juan de Chuccho, from the bus terminus in Cabanaconde’s main square, Plaza Principal, double-back along the main road to Mirador San Miquel where the trail begins (alternatively, shave some 15 minutes off your hike by asking the bus driver to drop you off at the Mirador). It takes 3–4 hours to get to San Juan.

• If you are headed to Sangalle / Oasis, take Calle Grau, which turns into a trail at the town’s edge. It takes 2–3 hours to get to Sangalle.

• If you are first headed to Llahuar, take Calle San Pedro, then Bolívar to Mirador de Achachihua, and continue on the trail past a football field and a bullfighting ring. It takes 4–5 hours to get to Llahuar.

Trek itinerariesYou can take a number of different multi-day treks, depending on the time you want to spend inside the Canyon. No matter what route you take, your trek will be unforgettable. Below find a few sample itineraries. All but one are loops, which you can take in either clockwise or counterclockwise direction. This guide follows Sample itinerary #1 in the counterclockwise direction. Simply reverse the order if you go the other way.

3 days + 2 nightsSample itinerary #1 Cabanaconde › San Juan de Chuccho (overnight) › Malata › Llahuar (overnight) › Cabanaconde

Sample itinerary #2 Cabanaconde › San Juan de Chuccho › Tapay (overnight) › Malata › Llahuar (overnight) › Cabanaconde

Sample itinerary #3 Cabanaconde › San Juan de Chuccho (overnight) › Malata › Sangalle (overnight) › Cabanaconde

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Sample itinerary #4 Cabanaconde › Sangalle (overnight) › Llahuar (overnight) › Cabanaconde

Sample itinerary #5 Cabanaconde › Sangalle › Fure (overnight) › Llatica › Llahuar (overnight) › Cabanaconde

2 days + 1 nightSample itinerary #6 Cabanaconde › San Juan de Chuccho › Malata › Sangalle (overnight) › Cabanaconde

Sample itinerary #7 Cabanaconde › Sangalle (overnight) › Cabanaconde

Sample itinerary #8 Cabanaconde › Llahuar (overnight) › Sangalle › Cabanaconde

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Trekking Colca Canyon, Day 1: Cabanaconde to San Juan de Chuccho (or Tapay)The trailThe hike takes 3–4 hours and descends almost 1,000 meters / 3,280 feet.

From Plaza Principal de Cabanaconde, double-back along the main road, past a cemetery, to Mirador San Miquel where the trail begins (alternatively, ask the bus driver to drop you off at the Mirador to save 15–20 minutes).

Once past the Mirador, the trail descends gently at first, then more steeply, ending in switchbacks just before Rio Colca. The views put the fear of heights to test and the descending path the knees and calf muscles.

The bottom of Colca Canyon from the path; the bridge with a checkpoint; an unwitting but helpful guide to San Juan

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At the bottom of the Canyon, a bridge spans Rio Colca. An Autocolca tourism agency representative will check your boleto turistico.

San Juan de Chuccho (2,300 m / 7,546 ft)From the bridge, it’s a 10 minute easy walk to San Juan de Chuccho, a hamlet scattered in a grove of trees, providing welcome respite from the exposed hillside trails.

There are a few accommodations options in the village. Reservations aren’t available online. Simply show up (few people hike in the Canyon), or ask folks at Pachamama hostel in Cabanaconde to call ahead and make a reservation for you.

La Casa de Rivelino. Welcoming, if a little reserved hosts offer matrimonial (queen) beds in rustic, cozy huts with dirt floors.

The shared bathroom is next to cages with turkeys, chicks, sheep, a pig, and a beautiful night sky, offering companionship.

Queen rooms with shared bathroom are S/10 (USD3.05). A dinner, bottled water, and next-day breakfast, including coca tea, costs S/23.50 (USD7.20).

Posada Roy AKA La Casa de Roy. Located a few minutes’ walk past Casa de Rivelino (follow the signs painted on rocks), Roy’s is much friendlier, with clean, simple rooms featuring private bathrooms with warm-ish water.

There’s no electricity but an ample, candlelit dinner is a worthy substitute. Plus there is a pet alpaca.

Queen rooms with an ensuite bathroom are S/20 (USD6.10), S/10 (USD3.05) for rooms with a shared bathroom. Dinner is S/10–12 (USD3.05–3.65) dinner, breakfast is S/8–10 (USD2.45–3.05).

Posada Gloria AKA La Casa de Gloria. A popular, busy place to stay in San Juan Chuccho, Gloria’s offers rustic rooms, some with a shower, others communal.

Rooms and dinner each cost S/10 (USD3.05).

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Alternative: Tapay (2,800 m / 9,186 ft) A quieter alternative for an overnight stay in San Juan is Tapay. Some 500 meters in altitude higher than San Juan, the hamlet can be especially attractive if your legs are all twisted from downhill walking and want the respite of an ascent to wrap up the day.

The path from San Juan to Tapay picks up behind Gloria’s restaurant. The trip takes about 2 hours.

With its stone gateway and paved square around the church, Tapay feels like an upgrade from villages deeper in the Canyon. It’s almost entirely devoid of hikers, even in the busy season.

For accommodations, head to El Encanto Maruya, where simple rooms feature twin beds, electricity, and warm water in communal showers. Prices are comparable to San Juan, with the room, dinner, breakfast, and snacks totalling about S/40 (USD12.20).

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Trekking Colca Canyon, Day 2: San Juan de Chuccho to LlahuarThe trailThe hike from San Juan de Chuccho to Llahuar takes 4–5 hours.

If you are starting from San Juan, head along Rio Colca then along the creek to the right, deeper into the side of the Canyon, and keep to the left. After this mild first section, after the bridge the trail rises steeply in a series of switchbacks.

If you are starting from Tapay, take the downhill path to the right as you face the Canyon. The descent is steep and the path winds through many switchbacks, then levels out.

Either way, you will reach Cosñirhua (or Coshñirwa), the first of several villages on the way to Llahuar, in about an hour. A farming

Malata

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village, in Cosñirhua inhabitants seem outnumbered by donkeys, chickens, pigs, horses, sheep, and dogs.

Proceed for half an hour to the village of Malata, where a colonial stone church sits planted into the hillside on Plaza de Armas. If open, Malata Museo is also worth a 15-minute detour: for 1 sol a helpful guide will show you artifacts of village life.

Leaving Malata, spot the trails from Cabanaconde to San Juan and Sangalle on the opposite side of the Canyon.

Soon the path forks at a small clearing with a cross: continuing on to Llahuar (another 3 hours) and down to Sangalle, visible with its oasis of lush trees and pools (another hour or so; see below).

Trotting further on a wide dirt road, stop at Mirador de Paclla Apacheta for welcome shade and wide-angle views of the Canyon.

Paclla; direction marker to Llahuar

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Straight and winding sections alternate on the dusty road. Pass the pueblos of Paclla and Pallqa, and, after several switchbacks and bends, tiny Chuwirca. Take a right at the crossroads toward Llahuar. The bridge to Llahuar soon appears below.

Llahuar (2,020 m / 6,627 ft)Llahuar is a tiny settlement at the bottom of the Canyon. Aside from overnighting here, you can take advantage of the riverside thermal pools heated by volcanic activity. The water is far from hot but, after the long hike, the soak is heavenly. Listen to Rio Colca gurgle by and watch the sun set and rocks roll down the surrounding hills.

There are two places to stay in Llahuar.

Llahuar Lodge. First in the settlement as you arrive. Popular but food quality and service have reportedly declined in recent years.

Llahuar...almost there!

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The dining patio has spectacular views of the rivers Huaruro and Colca converging below. All meals at Llahuar Lodge are vegeterian, delicious, filling, made with fresh ingredients.

Living quarters are in rustic huts with comfortable matrimonial beds. The bathroom is shared, but clean and functioning, though the shower can be cold.

Prices are again comparable to other places in the Canyon: the room is S/20, meals are S/10 each.

Best of all, the family that runs the Lodge is welcoming, warm, and helpful, making guests feel at home from the first minute.

Unless it’s busy season, you can simply walk in. Otherwise book your stay ahead of time.

In Llahuar, living’s easy.

CHECK AVAILABILITY AT LLAHUAR LODGE ›

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Casa Virginia. Less busy, quieter, and slightly cheaper, Virginia’s next door is an equally welcoming family business (they do try harder since they are past the Lodge).

Rooms cost the same as at Llahuar Lodge; S/15 if you don’t want to go to the hot springs.

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Alternatives: San Juan de Chuccho to Sangalle or FureAlternative 1: San Juan to SangalleInstead of Llahuar (or San Juan de Chuccho if you are following the clockwise route), you can head down to Sangalle AKA San Galle AKA The Oasis. Shorter, 2-day/1-night treks through Colca Canyon typically include a stay here.

You can also visit on a day trip from Cabanaconde, which will take about 7 hours of hiking in total and requires leaving Arequipa before dawn or overnighting in Cabanaconde.

The trailSangalle is accessible by trails from

• Cabanaconde, recommended if you arrive to the Canyon in the afternoon, this steep, downhill hike takes about 3 hours (up to 4 hours on the way up).

• San Juan de Chuccho, via Cosñirhua and Malata, which takes about 3 hours total. The turnoff to Sangalle is a few minutes’ walk past Malata.

• Llahuar or Fure, which takes 5–6 hours. There’s a turnoff to the right before you reach the Malata crossroads, though the path is more strenuous.

Sangalle (1,900 m / 6,234 ft)Sangalle is basically a resort-like tourist trap. Because it’s easily accessible from Cabanaconde and most trekking tours stop here for the night, it’s the most crowded location in the Canyon. Book your stay ahead of time; expect worse food and service and higher prices.

The Oasis offers welcome shade in an oasis-like grove of trees, a number of sky-blue swimming pools, shaded in the afternoon, manicured lawns, and outdoor activities like lounging in hammocks or by the river, drinking cocktails, and playing volleyball.

Many travelers reports the place is run down, making “Oasis” a generous nickname.

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We do not recommend Sangalle for an overnight stay but if you must: all accommodations options include a basic room (different bed options are available), a restaurant, and a pool. Prices are fairly comparable, at S/20–40, quality varies.

• Paraiso

• Tropical

• Palmeras

Alternative 2: San Juan de Chuccho to FureThe trailFure is accessible by trails from Llahuar and Malata.

From Llahuar, take the trail starting outside Llahuar Lodge. In 2 hours, you will reach Llatica (2,220 m / 7,283 ft). Cross the bridge and pass a community hall and drinking-water tap. Cool off in the river before continuing to Fure. Turn left toward a plantation, and up the hill. When you reach a bridge, you’re almost there.

From Malata, walk for 1.5 hours and take the marked trail up to Fure, which is another 2–2.5 hours away. If you pass Paclla, you’ve missed the turnoff and gone too far.

Fure (2,760 m / 9,055 ft)Similar to Tapay, Fure offers a road much less hiked from other places in the Canyon.

Accommodations in Fure include:

• Fure Wasi. The first option when you arrive in Fure. Basic rooms in huts and a dining room.

• Hospedaje La Cascada De Huaruro. Rustic rooms in huts, located further into the hamlet.

RESERVE A ROOM IN SANGALLE ›

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Side trip: Fure or Llahuar to CatarataIf you want to stay an extra night in the Canyon, a day trip from Llahuar to the Catarata waterfalls is worth your while. The hike is a strenuous, all-day slog; the hike takes 10 hours round trip. Leave Llahuar at dawn and bring a flashlight for the return trip.

Follow the directions to Fure above. After Fure, look for painted direction markers to get to the Catarata waterfall, which is a 1.5-hour hike away.

The hike from Llahuar to the falls takes approximately 10 hours round trip. If you stay in Fure, the waterfalls are a 1.5-hour jaunt away.

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Trekking Colca Canyon, Day 3: Llahuar to CabanacondeThe trailGet up early to take the 6–7-hour hike back to Cabanaconde.

Double-back over Rio Huaruro toward Rio Colca. The trail descends gently along the course of the river.

Before you cross Rio Colca 1.5 hours later, take a short detour to a cluster of tiny geysers, if the trail is visible from the bridge and if you have time.

Continue to the wooden bridge across Rio Cabanaconde, and head toward the switchbacks to begin your ascent. The top of the Canyon is 4+ hours and more than 1,000 meters / 3,281 feet of elevation gain away.

Geysers steaming near the bridge across Colca River

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At the top, past the sign to Llahuar and Fure, the trail follows the Canyon rim. Stop at the Mirador Achachihua lookout shelter for one last look at the Canyon.

Continue on the road, past an open-air bull ring and a football pitch, both to your right.

Take Calle San Pedro to the town square. You have come full circle on your trek to Colca Canyon!

Alternatives: Bus or pickup truck

If your calf muscles are more tender than your ego, opt out of hiking to Cabanaconde and take a bus or pickup. Both take the main road and about an hour to get to Cabanaconde.

To catch the once-daily bus, hike up to the main road and wait at the turnoff at noon. The ride is S/10 (USD3.05). Often tardy, the bus will arrive in Cabanaconde just in time for the 2:00 p.m. connection to Arequipa.

On occasion, a 4x4 pickup goes up from Llahuar to Cabanaconde first thing in the morning. The Lodge owner will either offer the option or you can inquire. The ride in the pickup costs S/30 (USD9.15). You may be asked to help (un)load the pickup (our task was bunk bed parts). The view of sun rising above Colca Canyon is worth the labor.

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CabanacondeAttractionsYou can take in the attractions in Cabanaconde in an hour or so while waiting for the bus back to Arequipa.

Plaza PrincipalCabanaconde’s sleepy main square is the liveliest part of town. Sit around to take in the local life, though that mostly consists of buses from Arequipa/Chivay arriving and departing.

Worth a quick visit is the church, Parroquia San Pedro de Alcántara.

Other activities• Pet a baby llama

• Tour colorful crosses in the fields around town

• Admire local women’s headwear

• Sidestep farm animal dung

RestaurantsThere are a number of restaurants on and around Plaza Principal.

• Las Terrazas. Cheap mediocre eats, cocktails, an internet terminal.

• Sol y Sombra. Traditional dishes, daily set-menu lunch.

• Kuntur Wassi. Hotel restaurant, decent Peruvian dishes.

Accommodations

There are a few places to stay in Cabanaconde, including

• Pachamama Hostel. A backpacker classic. Helpful staff. Tour and guide bookings (though of course, you’re trekking Colca Canyon on your own.

FIND A PLACE TO STAY IN CABANACONDE ›

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• Kuntur Wassi Hotel. Off-season discounts. Clean rooms with logs and boulders fashioned into furniture. Luggage storage. Reliable wifi.

Bus scheduleSchedules for busses back to Arequipa change so the following is only approximate. As with the ride here, check at the Arequipa bus station, or inquire at the hotels/hostels in town, or simply wait for the next bus.

• 6:30 a.m. / 7:00 a.m. / 8:00 a.m. / 9:00 a.m. / 10:00 a.m. / 11:00 a.m.

• 1:00 p.m. / 2:00 p.m. / 9:00 p.m. / 10:15 p.m. / 11:00 p.m.

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AcknowledgmentsWe believe this to be the most comprehensive guide to trekking Colca Canyon available online. In addition to tour companies, wikis, guide books, and Tripadvisor reviews, we researched the information during our own visit and from accounts of hikers who came before and after us, including:

• Alex in Wanderland

• Arranged Travelers

• Brendan’s Adventures

• Der Backpacker

• Cronicas de un Viaje Anunciado

• Double-Barrelled Travel

• Ephemerratic

• Four Feet Walking

• Gallop Around the World

• He Needs Food

• I Am Achoo

• Nomad Explorers

• The Parallel Life

• Rich Trek

• Sand in My Bag

• Sit Down Disco Travel and Food

• Smash Adventures

• Tales from the Lens

• Two for the Road

• We houden wel wat bij

• Where in the World Is Rawr?

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About the AuthorsPeter Korchnak is a Slovak-born writer and a retired yardwork guerrilla. His travel writing has appeared in Cargo Literary, Compass Cultura, Narratively, and Tablet. He also penned Guerrilla Yardwork: The First-Time Home Owner’s Handbook (2013).

Lindsay Sauvé writes about travel, food, and drink for Where is Your Toothbrush? and advocates for salad’s place at the table at The Salad Lobby. Her future projects include picnicking on the Trans-Siberian-Railway and visiting every hawker cafe on Penang island, Malaysia.

Where Is Your Toothbrush? is a travel website focusing on food and drink, conceived, written, and photographed by Peter Korchnak and Lindsay Sauvé. Find us at WhereIsYourToothbrush.com.

© 2018 Peter Korchnak & Lindsay Sauvé