transaxle repair - performance technicianmastertechmag.com/pdf/1988/11nov/198811is_transaxle...the...
TRANSCRIPT
RVI
Honda,TransaxleRepair
PART TWO
Shift Am
Holder Assemb
As promised, we'd like to continue with the second
part of our Honda Civic transaxle repair. V\fe sure hope
the customer hasn't been waiting.
This month we'll look at some highlights of main-
shaft clearance measurement and adjustment, synchro
nizer inspection and measurement, shift arm holder
disassembly, differential checks, and reassembly.
Since we're covering a number of areas, we'll
bounce around a bit from subject to subject, so be
aware that we may change lanes without a turn signal.
Instead of doing a blow by blow, we're concentrating
on some key points that might foul you up. As a result,
reassembly procedures not specifically noted aresimply the reverse of the original teardown.
Here are some tips and hints:
• You don't have a backlash adjustment to worry about
between the pinion and countershaft, because there
is none.
• Side gear clearances in the differential can be
checked with a dial indicator as you would on most
other differentials. Excessive backlash between the
pinion and side gears can be corrected (to a point) by
installing new thrust shims to compensate for wear.
• If you do have to remove the ring gear from the car
rier for any reason, you'd better know that the bolt
threads are LEFT-HANDED. So don't just set the old
impact for right-hand-thread-unscrew and turn up the
air.
• When reassembling the transaxle, make sure you
have cleaned the mating faces of the case halves
without scoring or gouging them. Also make sure you
have a new OE or OE equivalent gasket. Don't just
silicone the case halves. Changing the gap between
the case halves could alter side bearing clearances.
Torque the case bolts in the proper sequence, to the
proper torque of 27 Nm (20 ft-lb).
• Lightly lube all parts as you reassemble the trans.
Use motor oil.
• Check individual gear engagement as you go along.
Make sure all detents and springs are properly in
stalled, and check their action.
• Note the relative position of the four bolts that hold
the shifter arm assembly to the case. Two of them are
6 mm standard bolts. Two are 6 mm flange-style bolts.
Don't damage the case threads by overtightening the
wrong bolts in the wrong holes. All four torque to 12
Nm (9 ft-lb).
And now, back to the movie.
—By Ralph Birnbaum
As a quick refresher, we made shish kebabs out of the
countershaft components. This may help you
remember the proper reassembly sequence in case you
forgot. The shim marked by the black arrow at the right
is the one we measured in photo 17 last month and
determines first gear end play.
We couldn't fit the entire stack in one photo. Here's
the rest of the countershaft stack. The spacer below
the arrow at the right was the one we measured in step
18 last month and separates 2nd and 3rd gears. The
domed side of the convex washer below the left arrow
faces toward the nut.
We have a clearance measurement to make on the
mainshaft. With the mainshaft fully assembled, in
cluding the snap ring, check between the spacer and
5th gear. Original specification is 0.05-0.38 mm
(0.002-0.015 in). If out of specs, correct the clearance
with a different thickness thrust washer.
Install the synchro on the coned face of the matching
gear and turn it slightly until the braking action of the
synchro stops it. Check the synchro-to-gear clearance.
The specification for new parts on all the synchros is
0.85-1.1 mm (0.033-0.043 in). The wear limit is 0.4 mm
(0.016 in).
When reassembling the synchro sleeves and hubs, note
that they have to be lined up in a specific way, or they
won't go back together. The teeth below the black
arrows index the sleeve on the hub. Center them be
tween the synchro locator windows so they fit the
deeper matching grooves in the hub.
Here's a very simple, but very important adjustment.
This snap ring determines the side clearance between
the differential carrier bearings and the transaxle case.
The rings are selective. If you replace any components
that might change final bearing-to-case clearance,
check and adjust as necessary.
To check side clearance, assemble the case halves with
a new gasket and properly torque all the case half bolts.
Now check to see if you can slip a feeler gauge thicker
than 0.15 mm (0.006 in) between the bearing and snap
ring. If so, you have too much play and will have to
install a thicker shim.
This photo has more arrows than Cluster's hat. Whilewe still have a bare case, let's check the shift rod bores
(black arrows) for burrs or gouges that could cause
hard shifting later. The white arrow points to the detent
ball and spring for the reverse gear shift arm. Don't
forget it.
The bearing for the countershaft sits in a blind bore
and is held in place by this retainer plate. You'll need
to free the screws with your impact driver because
they're staked in place. After replacing the bearing,
restake the screws and add a drop of thread locking
compound for good measure.
Did you have a problem with the spring return for
reverse during your test drive? Then check the shiftarm assembly. Unbolt it from the case, noting the posi
tion of the regular and shoulder bolts for reinstalla-
tion. Remove the retainer plate. Note how the plate
indexes the shaft for proper position.
My fat finger points to the cavity for the detent ball
and spring. Don't let the hole on this side fool you,
there's nothing missing. The ball and spring enter
from the other side. The arrow points to the notch
where the ball rides. We already removed the retainer
plate and started driving out the shaft.
Once you pull the shaft out far enough, the detent ball
and spring will come out this hole at warp three, so
be careful. To reinstall the shaft, you'll have to com
press the ball and spring with a thin screwdriver while
you tap the shaft back in place. Recheck detent action.
This photo better illustrates the position of the two
regular and two flange style bolts that hold the shift
arm holder in the case. Both are M6 x 1.0, so be careful.
The black arrows mark the flange bolt positions, the
white arrows point to the regular bolts. Torque to 12Nm (9 ft-lb).
Before we reinstall the gear shafts in the case, put the
reassembled countershaft in the soft-jawed vise (two
blocks of wood worked nicely). Install a new nut.
Torque the nut to 88 Nm (65 ft-lb). This socket is NOT
deep enough (arrow), and could slip. Stake the nut
without tearing the collar.
Reinstall the gear shafts and shift arm holder. Reinstall
the shift rods and forks in reverse order of disassembly.
When you reinstall the reverse shift arm, make sure
the detent ball and spring are in place (white arrow).
Align the rod (black arrow) with the L-shaped slot inthe arm.
Don't forget that special washer that goes behind this
nut on the reverse arm. If you forgot, we showed it in
photo 11 of last month's article. Use a drop of thread
lock on this nut and torque to 23 Nm (17 ft-lb). Thisphoto shows the pin properly inserted in the L-shaped
slot of the shift arm.
Now you can slide the reverse idler gear back in place.Make sure the grooved ring faces downward as shown
and engages the reverse arm pin. With the gear in
place, reinsert the gear shaft in the case. Recheck
reverse arm alignment. Check for smooth shifting and
detent action on the reverse arm.
Reinstall the case cover, aligning bearings, shift forks,
and the case half locator dowels (arrow). Hopefully
you've checked the dowels and mating holes for burrs
or debris. Don't pound on things if the cover sticks.
If everything is clean and properly aligned, there
should be no problem.
This illustration shows proper torque sequence for the
case half bolts. Don't just start with one bolt and go
in a circle, or you may cock the case and leave
something in a bind. Gradually cross-tighten the bolts
in the sequence shown to a final torque of 27 Nm (20
ft-lb).
Install the snap rings on the main and countershaftbearings. The rings snap into grooves on the bearing
outer races. Then they are sandwiched between the
upper case half and this housing spacer. Holding thebearings, holds the shafts. Forget the snap rings and
you have problems.
Reassemble 5th gear and install the shift fork. Then
reassemble the retainers on the countershaft bearing.
The split washers fit into a groove on the countershaft.A domed spacer holds the segments in place beneath
a snap ring. A large snap ring locates the bearing in
the 5th gear housing.
The factory manual suggests installing the bearing in
the case first, instead of installing it on the shaft andthen sliding 5th gear housing over the bearing. We
tried it both ways. Take your choice, but don't forget
the large snap ring whatever you do. Never reuse—
always replace—the inner snap ring.