PLAN YOUR TRIP

25 Top Experiences ....... 4Welcome to Hawaii ......... 16Need to Know ................. 18If You Like ........................ 20Month by Month ............. 23Itineraries ........................ 27Outdoor Activities .......... 34Travel with Children ...... 46Regions at a Glance ....... 50

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND HAWAII

Hawaii Today ................... 564History ............................. 567Hawaii’s People .............. 584Hawaii’s Cuisine ............. 591Hawaiian Arts & Crafts .. 603Lei .................................... 609Land & Sea ...................... 614Green Hawaii................... 623

Hawaii TodayThe Hawaiian Renaissance Twhough Hawaiian culture has been devastated in the 230-plus years since Western contact, it remains very much alive in more than just

lace names and hotel hula performances. Traditional arts like lauandanus leaf) weaving, kapa (barkcloth) making, gourd carvina

tiki scul ting are all experiencing a recovery and revival. Healing artslik i and i la au lapa au (plant medicine) are beingustudents both within and beyond the Native Hawaiian communit .There are Hawaiian-language immersion programs in ublic schools,

NEW YORKHAWAII TEXAS

population per sq mile

≈ 100 people

Hawaii’s CuisineThe word ‘cuisine’ sounds too formal for Hawaii. It suggests a need focategories and rules, for a regimented approach to food that doesn’quite work for the Islands. In Hawaii, the culinary tradition is one oinclusiveness, where foreign avors and cooking styles are incorporated and shared – usually in heaping, savory portions. This no-worriembrace of international avors is re ected in the state’s most iconicishes: the plate lunch; the loco moco (dish of rice, fried egg and hamurger patty topped with gravy or other condiments); the mighty S amu u – a rice ball topped with sautéed Spam and wrapped

nori dried seaweed). It’s a fun, but tasty, insouciance that outs anrmal rule To best understand Hawaii’s gastronomic style, it’s hel ful to conside

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Hawai i Volcanoes National Park 1 Pack the boots, friends – you’ll want them to explore the miles of trails running through this

unique national park (p 283 ). Crossing lava ows, old and new, while steam vents hu and native honeycreepers sing in rain forested oases, it’s obvious why the Big Island is a world-class hiking des-tination. Day hikes, lava-tube adventures and backcountry treks (including to the summit of mighty Mauna Loa, p 248 ) are hallmarks here. What the park doesn’t usually o er is live lava action – for that, head to Puna (p 275 ).

4 25 TOP EXPERIENCES

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

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563GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

Ready for some island hopping? Wherever you travel around the Hawaii Islands, fantastic beaches, friendly faces and ono grinds (good eats) are

practically guaranteed. Be swept up by the kinetic energy of the capital island, O ahu. Hang loose on Maui, which offers a little something for everyone, but especially for beach bums. Be awed by towering sea cliffs on ancient Kaua i, then gape at new land being birthed by volcanoes on the Big Island, Hawaii’s youngest isle. Escape to total resort luxury on Lana i or learn to live life off the land on rural Moloka i, where Native Hawaiian traditions run strong. Whatever paradise you’re seeking, the Aloha State has it – all you have to do is open your eyes.

O ahu Beaches Food Museums

Multicultural Modernism O ahu will give you the measure of multiracial Hawaii, which confounds the categories of census-takers. East and West merge as ancient Hawaii greets the 21st century.

Big City, Small Island Three-quarters of state residents call the Gathering Place’ home. It’s crowded – everyone rubs elbows on the bus and the city sidewalks. Yet miles of beaches are just a short drive from Honolulu’s galler-ies, museums and monuments.

Endless Feast If you do nothing else on O ahu, eat. Japanese izakaya, island-style food trucks, high-wire fusion menus by Hawaii’s top chefs – it’s all here, waiting to be tasted.

Hawai i the Big Island Hiking Culture Wildlife

Trail Junkies Unite! Kilauea, earth’s most active vol-cano, conjures up a dreamscape for hik-ers: emerald valleys, icy waterfall pools, lava ows (active and ancient) crash-ing against rain forest and some of the loftiest summits your boots will ever struggle to top.

Cultural Border Crossing On the Big Island culture is participa-tory – absorbed, rather than simply observed. You’re invited to create a lei, dance a hula, beware the night marchers and watch as giant ulua (trevally) are caught the old Hawai i way.

Wildlife Spinner dolphins leap, sea turtles glide and endangered nene cross the road regularly. In winter humpback whales steal the show.

regions at a glance

5 0

Need to Know

Currency » US dollars ($)

Language » English

High Season (Dec–Apr & Jun–Aug)

» Accommodation prices up 50–100%

» Christmas to New Year’s, and Easter are more expensive and busier

» Winter is slightly wetter (prime time for whale watching); summer is hotter

Shoulder(May & Sep)

» Crowds and prices drop slightly between schools’ spring break and summer vacation

» Temperatures remain mild, with mostly sunny cloudless days, some scattered showers

Low Season (Oct–Nov)

» Fewest crowds, accommodation rates drop statewide (except possibly Waikiki)

» Weather is dry, hot and extremely humid

When to Go

#

##

#

#

LahainaGO Year-round

Lana'i CityGO Year-round

Kailua-KonaGO Year-round

HonoluluGO Year-round

Lihu‘eGO Year-round

Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons

Your Daily Budget Budget less than

$100 » Dorm beds: $20–30

» Farmers markets and plate lunches for cheap eats

» Hit the beaches and use public transportation instead of renting a car

Midrange

$100–$250

» Double room in a midrange hotel or B&B: $120–200

» Rental car from $35/150 per day/week, excluding insurance and gas

Top End over

$250 » Resort hotel room or

one-bedroom condo rental: over $200

» Three-course meal with a cocktail in top restaurant: $75

1 8

Itiner-aries

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O'ahu

PE AR LHA RB OU R

HANAUM ABAY

KAILUABAY

NorthShore

Windward

Coast

Wai'anae Coast

DiamondHead

Ka'enaPoint

Waimea

Waimanalo

Honolulu

Waikiki

Kane‘akiHeiau

MakahaBeach

Shangri La

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Whether you’ve got six days or Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these 60, these itineraries provide a itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanetHead online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other .com/thorntree to chat with other travelers.travelers. Looking for other travel resources?

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THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Sara Benson,Amy C Balfour, Glenda Bendure, E Clark Carroll, Ned Friary, Conner Gorry,

Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Luci Yamamoto

Lana‘ip412

Moloka‘ip428

O‘ahup54

Kaua‘i p462

Ni‘ihaup460

Mauip304

Kaho‘olawep410

Hawai‘ithe BigIslandp165

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 628Transportation ............... 637Health .............................. 642Glossary .......................... 644Index ................................ 649Map Legend .................... 662

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

GETTING THERE & AWAY Roughly 99% of visitors to Hawaii arrive by air, and the majority of ights – both international and domestic – arrive at Honolulu Inter-national Airport on O ahu. Nonstop and direct ights to the Neighbor Islands are increasingly available (and costly). Flights and tours can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

(HNL; http://hawaii.gov/hnl) on O ahu.

Following are the main Neighbor Island airports: Big Island East Hawaii Hilo International Airport (ITO; http://hawaii.gov/ito) West Hawaii Kona International Airport at Keahole (KOA; http://hawaii.gov/koa) Maui Kahului airport (OGG; http://hawaii.gov/ogg) Lana i Lana i airport (LNY; http://hawaii.gov/lny) Moloka i Moloka i airport (MKK; http://hawaii gov/mkk)

which vary tremendouslyseason, demand, numbestopovers etc.

Competition is highesamong airlines ying to Hnolulu from major US maland cities, and the lowefare’ uctuates constantIn general, return fares frthe US mainland to Hawcost $350 (in low seasonfrom the West Coast) to $800-plus (in high seasofrom the East Coast).

AirTech (%212-219-70www.airtech.com) has ch ights between the Wes

Coast and Hawaii. Howeyou must be exible: Airsells last-minute seats adoesn’t guarantee a speci c ight. Flights currendepart from San Francisand Los Angeles to Honoand Maui year-round, anseasonally to Hawai i thIsland.

Vacation Package Vacation packages of-fered by major airlines atravel booking websites sometimes are the cheaest option. Basic packagcover airfare and accomdations, while deluxe oninclude car rental, activi

d i l d h i

Transportation

PAGE

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation S A green or

sustainable option F No payment required

OʻAHU . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54HONOLULU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61PEARL HARBOR . . . . . . . . . . 96WAIKIKI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99SOUTHEAST COAST . . . . . 121Diamond Head &Kahala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Hawaiʻi Kai . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124Koko Head RegionalPark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128Makapuʻu Point. . . . . . . . . .129WINDWARD COAST . . . . . . 129Waimanalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130Kailua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133Kaneʻohe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139Waiahole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140Kualoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Kaʻaʻawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142Kahana Valley . . . . . . . . . . .142Punaluʻu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143Laʻie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144Malaekahana State Recreation Area . . . . . . . . .145Kahuku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146NORTH SHORE . . . . . . . . . . 146Kawela (Turtle) Bay . . . . . . 147Waimea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148Haleʻiwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152Waialua. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155Mokuleʻia to Kaʻena Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156CENTRAL OʻAHU . . . . . . . . 157Wahiawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158Kolekole Pass . . . . . . . . . . .158WAIʻANAE COAST(LEEWARD OʻAHU) . . . . . . 159Ko Olina Resort. . . . . . . . . .160

Kahe Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160Waiʻanae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Makaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162Makua Valley . . . . . . . . . . . .162Kaʻena Point State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163

HAWAIʻI THE BIG ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . 165KAILUA-KONA . . . . . . . . . . . 172AROUND KAILUA-KONA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Keauhou Resort Area . . . . . 187Holualoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192Honokohau Harbor & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194SOUTH KONA COAST . . . . 196Kealakekua . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Captain Cook . . . . . . . . . . .201Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park . . . . . . . . . 203Honaunau . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National HistoricalPark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Miloliʻi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209NORTH KONA COAST . . . . 210Kaloko-HonokohauNational Historical Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210Keahole Point . . . . . . . . . . .210Kekaha Kai State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Kaʻupulehu . . . . . . . . . . . . .213Kiholo Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214SOUTH KOHALA . . . . . . . . . 215Waikoloa Resort Area . . . .215Mauna Lani Resort Area . . 222Mauna Kea Resort Area . 225Kawaihae & Around . . . . . 226

NORTH KOHALA . . . . . . . . . 229Akoni Pule Highway(Hwy 270) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Hawi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230Kapaʻau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Pololu Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 234WAIMEA (KAMUELA) . . . . . 235MAUNA KEA &SADDLE ROAD . . . . . . . . . .240HAMAKUA COAST . . . . . . . 248Honokaʻa & Around . . . . . 248Waipiʻo Valley . . . . . . . . . . 252Hakalau & Around . . . . . . .257Onomea Bay &Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259HILO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260PUNA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Pahoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .275Red Road (Hwy 137) . . . . .278HAWAIʻI VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK . . . . . . . . . 282KAʻU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297

MAUI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304LAHAINA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310WEST MAUI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Kaʻanapali . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326Honokowai . . . . . . . . . . . . . .331Kahana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .331Napili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Kapalua & Around . . . . . . 333Kahekili Highway . . . . . . . 338ʻIAO VALLEY &CENTRAL MAUI . . . . . . . . .340Kahului . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340Wailuku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346ʻIao Valley State Park . . . 350Puʻunene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Kealia Pond NationalWildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . .351Maʻalaea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .351Molokini Crater . . . . . . . . . 353KIHEI & SOUTH MAUI . . . . 353Kihei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353Wailea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364Makena. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368NORTH SHORE & UPCOUNTRY . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Paʻia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Makawao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .377Haʻiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380Pukalani & Around . . . . . . .381Kula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .381Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area . . . . . . . . 383Keokea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384ʻUlupalakua Ranch . . . . . . 385THE ROAD TO HANA . . . . . 385Huelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386Koʻolau Forest Reserve . . 386Keʻanae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388Wailua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389ʻUlaʻino Road . . . . . . . . . . . 390Waiʻanapanapa StatePark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .391HANA & EAST MAUI . . . . . . 392Hana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392Kipahulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397Piʻilani Highway . . . . . . . . 398HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .400

KAHOʻOLAWE . . . . .410

LANAʻI . . . . . . . . . . . . 412Lanaʻi City . . . . . . . . . . . . . .416Munro Trail. . . . . . . . . . . . . 422

Hulopoʻe & ManeleBays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Keomuku Road . . . . . . . . . 424Road to Gardenof the Gods . . . . . . . . . . . . 425Kaumalapaʻu Highway . . . . 426

MOLOKAʻI . . . . . . . . 428KAUNAKAKAI . . . . . . . . . . . 435EAST MOLOKAʻI . . . . . . . . .442ʻUalapuʻe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443Pukoʻo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444Waialua. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445Halawa Valley . . . . . . . . . . 446Pali Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447CENTRAL MOLOKAʻI . . . . .448Kamakou Area . . . . . . . . . 448Kualapuʻu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449Kalaʻe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450Palaʻau State Park . . . . . . 450Hoʻolehua . . . . . . . . . . . . . .451Moʻomomi Beach . . . . . . . 452KALAUPAPA NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK . . . . . . . 453WEST END . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456Maunaloa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457Kaluakoi Resort Area . . . . 457West End Beaches . . . . . . 458

NIʻIHAU . . . . . . . . . . 460

KAUAʻI . . . . . . . . . . . 462LIHUʻE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .468KAPAʻA & THEEASTSIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479Wailua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479Waipouli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489Kapaʻa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .491

Anahola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 497Koʻolau Road . . . . . . . . . . . 498HANALEI BAY &THE NORTH SHORE . . . . .499Kilauea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 499Kalihiwai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506ʻAnini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506Princeville . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507Hanalei Valley . . . . . . . . . . .513Hanalei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .513Haʻena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522Haʻena State Park . . . . . . 524Na Pali Coast StatePark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524THE SOUTH SHORE . . . . . . 526Koloa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526Poʻipu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530Kalaheo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540WAIMEA CANYON &THE WESTSIDE . . . . . . . . . . 541Port Allen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542Hanapepe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543Waimea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 546Kekaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .551Waimea CanyonState Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552Kokeʻe State Park . . . . . . 554

PAPAHANAUMOKUAKEA MARINE NATIONAL MONUMENT . . . . . . . .560Nihoa & Mokumanamana . . . . . . . 560French Frigate Shoals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 560Laysan Island . . . . . . . . . . .561Midway Islands . . . . . . . . . .561

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Lana‘iKaho‘olawe

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Meeting the MantasSnorkel or dive with

manta rays; the Big Island’sbiggest thrill (p176)

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Perch atop Hawaii’s highest mountain (p243)

Hiking Waipi‘o ValleyTruly step back in time (p253)

› Hawaii

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Luau at LahainaWhere real alohaabounds (p321)

Waikiki’s Beaches& Nightlife

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One Week Oʻahu

Immerse yourself in the skyscrapers and kaleidoscopic streets of Honolulu and Waikiki’s oceanfront resorts for four days. Between sessions at Waikiki’s beaches, eat your heart out in the capital, tour Chinatown, visit the Bishop Museum and ̒ Iolani Palace, explore WWII history at Pearl Harbor, enjoy live Hawaiian music and hula

at sunset, hike up Diamond Head and tour Doris Duke’s incomparable Shangri La. Now relax. Heading east: spend a day snorkeling at Hanauma Bay. Then swim off the

white-sand beaches of Waimanalo and surf, kayak or windsurf at Kailua Bay. Wind your way along the rural Windward Coast, saving a day or two to savor the North Shore and the famous beaches around Waimea. In winter, watch big-wave surfers carve; in summer, snorkel with sea turtles.

If the clock’s run out, drive along the scenic Kamehameha Hwy through central Oʻahu and hit the airport; otherwise, veer west on H1 and explore the Waiʻanae Coast. Hike to Kaʻena Point, watch (or join) the surfers at Makaha Beach and get in touch with Hawaii’s sacred side at Makaha Valley’s Kaneʻaki Heiau.

Whether you’ve got six days or Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these 60, these itineraries provide a itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanetHead online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other .com/thorntree to chat with other travelers.travelers.

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Two Weeks Hawaiʻi the Big Island

The Big Island can fi ll two weeks and then some. Base yourself in Kailua-Kona for the fi rst four days or so, combining trips to the beach – specifi cally, Maniniʻowali Beach, Kahaluʻu Beach, Hapuna Beach and Kaunaʻoa Bay – with the art galler-ies and Kona coff ee farms of Holualoa, feeling the ancient mana (spiritual essence)

at Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, and paddling a kayak to snorkel in Kealakekua Bay, where Captain Cook met his doom.

Then spend two days in the countryside of North Kohala: hike into sculpted Pololu Valley; circle around Moʻokini Heiau, near the royal birthplace of Kamehameha the Great; and graze good eats after shopping in quaint Hawi. Or just sightsee in North Kohala and save your appetite for Waimea (Kamuela), a paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) outpost with a posh collection of country B&Bs.

Is that a week already? Well, keep going. Take a leisurely drive along the Hamakua Coast, making sure to at least peek into Waipiʻo Valley, if not to hike down to the wild beach. Wander the antique and artisan shops of quaint Honokaʻa, an ex-sugar-plantation town. Spend two days in Hilo, exploring its historic downtown architecture, the farmers market and excellent museums, particularly the ʻImiloa Astronomy Center of Hawai‘i and Pacifi c Tsunami Museum.

If you have extra time, detour either up to Mauna Kea for an evening of stargazing or venture down into Puna, lingering along Red Road and perhaps getting nekkid at Kehena Beach. But leave at least two days for Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park: hike the other-worldly Kilauea Iki Trail, drive along the Chain of Craters Road and hopefully trek to see some hot lava. While adventuring, stay in one of the lovely rainforest cottage B&Bs in nearby Volcano.

We understand that some have a plane to catch, but with another day or two for Kaʻu, you can admire sea turtles at black-sand Punaluʻu Beach, get in a last hike to Green Sands Beach and wave good-bye to the island from windswept Ka Lae, the southernmost geographical point in the USA.

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» (above) Kahalu‘u Beach Park (p187), on the Big Island, fronts Kahalu‘u Bay’s easy-access snorkeling and is a favorite surf spot. » (left) Saddle Rd (p247) will take you to the Mauna Kea Access Rd and several exceptional hikes.

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10 Days Maui

You’re on your honeymoon, right? Well, we’re not waiting around for lazy bums – there are too many mind-blowing experiences on Maui. Just try to keep up, OK?

Start off in the old whaling town of Lahaina and explore its pirates’ treasure chest of historical sites, perhaps celebrating ‘getting Maui’d’ at the superb Old Lahaina

Luau. In winter, spot whales breaching off shore, particularly at Papawai Point, and take a whale-watching boat tour.

Then head north into West Maui. Naturally, at a time like this, money is no object, so book a lavish suite at a resort in Kaʻanapali or even more romantic Kapalua, and enjoy West Maui’s excellent beaches. Spend two days (three if you’re really in love), but then let’s go! Drive north around the peninsula, stopping to snorkel with spinner dolphins at Slaugh-terhouse Beach, then get on the scenic, narrow cliff side Kahekili Highway.

As you cruise into Central Maui, stop to admire the legendary jungle spire at ʻIao Valley State Park and amble the antiques shops of Wailuku. Then keep going to south Maui: book a snorkel cruise to Molokini Crater, check out more whales at Kihei, and snorkel around Makena or perhaps sunbathe au naturel at Little Beach. Rejuvenate at a spa re-sort in Wailea, or just take an unbeatable sunset oceanfront stroll.

Oh my, look at the time – only a few days left? Make sure you get to Haleakalā National Park before you go. Spend a day hiking around this awesome volcano and catching sun-rise from the summit. Then drive the cliff -hugging Road to Hana, stopping frequently to gape in wonder at the windward coastal scenery and to follow muddy paths to waterfall swimming holes. Kick back on a black-sand beach at Waiʻanapanapa State Park or drive further for a bamboo rain forest hike and to take a dip in the cascading waterfall pools of the Haleakalā national park’s ‘Oheo Gulch.

If you don’t overnight in rural Hana, drive back to civilization and hang loose in Paʻia, enjoying ʻono grinds (delicious food) downtown and admiring the daredevil windsurfers at Hoʻokipa Beach Park. Or follow the remote Piʻilani Highway around Haleakalā’s back side, ending your trip among the cowboy ranches of Maui’s Upcountry.

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10 Days Kauaʻi

Kauaʻi is Hollywood’s ready-made set whenever it needs a ‘tropical paradise.’ These soul-inspiring canyons, cliff s, waterfalls, rivers, bays and beaches are more than just pretty backdrops, however.

If you’ve chosen Kauaʻi, you’re looking for heart-stopping adventure, but let’s start off nice and easy in Poʻipu. Nap off your jet lag for a day or two on the sunny beaches of the South Shore. Head to Port Allen for a Na Pali Coast snorkeling tour; scuba divers can take this chance to tour the waters around off shore Niʻihau.

Now, lace up your hiking boots and spend the next couple days in Waimea Canyon State Park and Kokeʻe State Park: trek the bogs of the Alakaʻi Swamp, traverse knife-edge 2000ft cliff s on the Awaʻawapuhi Trail and wear yourself out on the Kukui Trail, which descends into the ‘Grand Canyon of the Pacifi c.’ If you aren’t camping, then stay in the old sugar-plantation town of Waimea and eat and shop in revitalized Hanapepe – if it’s Friday night, join the festive art-gallery walk.

Well rested, head east: hit Wailua and kayak the Wailua River or the less crowded Huleʻia River inside a national wildlife refuge. Get a glimpse of misty Mt Waiʻaleʻale while hiking the rolling Kuilau Ridge and Moalepe Trails. If you have kids, don’t miss Lydgate Beach Park. The Eastside’s most charming small town, Kapaʻa is worth a wander for its artisan shops and organic, locavarian restaurants and cafes. Bed down at a B&B cottage here or further north in peaceful Kilauea.

Giddy-up to the North Shore, which deserves a few days. Get in some swimming, snor-keling and windsurfi ng at ʻAnini Beach, and check out the beach-bum town of Hanalei after surfi ng, outrigger canoeing or kayaking around Hanalei Bay. Scenic drives hardly get more scenic than driving to the end of the North Shore’s road in Haʻena State Park; mix in snorkeling at Keʻe Beach with a visit to beautiful Limahuli Garden.

OK, ready? Na Pali Coast State Park is what’s left: in summer, kayak the 17 miles along the coast; otherwise, backpack the Kalalau Trail. Either way, you’ve saved the best for last. Now you’ll have an epic Hawaii story to impress your buddies back home.

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Two WeeksIsland Hopping: Maui, Lanaʻi & Molokaʻi

You’ve got time, you’ve got money and you want culture, outdoor adventure and peaceful relaxation in equal measure. Combine Maui, Molokaʻi and Lanaʻi – half the time, you won’t even need to drive. This trip is for lovers, culture vultures and anyone happy to spend a little more for plush lodgings and gourmet eats. But you’ve also

got to be willing to rough it once in a while, when the rewards – hidden waterfalls, epic sea cliff s – make it worthwhile.

First, spend fi ve or six days on Maui. Make it easy on yourself: get a resort hotel room or a condo for the duration of your stay at Kaʻanapali or Kapalua. Immerse yourself in Lahaina’s whaling history and browse Kaʻanapali’s Whalers Village Museum, enjoy some old-school aloha at the Old Lahaina Luau, take a whale-watching cruise, and for a thrill, try ziplining. As for beach time, some of Hawaii’s most seductive strands await nearby, like Kapalua Beach or Honolua Bay. Take one full day to hike Haleakalā National Park’s summit moonscapes and another to lazily drive down the Road to Hana, stopping off for waterfall hikes and to buy fresh coconuts.

Next, hop over to Lanaʻi and take your pick of world-class resorts located in Lanaʻi City and at Manele Bay, staying three or four nights. Things have been a little hectic so far, so play a round of golf, snorkel at Hulopoʻe Beach or take in the vistas from the Munro Trail. To really get away from it all, rent a 4WD and head for the Garden of the Gods and Shipwreck Beach.

Finally, spend four or fi ve days on Molokaʻi. Stay in a condo or B&B in or nearby small-town Kaunakakai. Day one: explore East Molokaʻi, checking out Halawa Valley and perhaps a waterfall or two. Day two: trek to the Kalaupapa Peninsula and munch maca-damia nuts at Purdy’s farm. Day three: head out to the remote beaches of the island’s West End or penetrate the dense forests of the Kamakou Preserve.

See the individual island chapters later in this guide for details on island hopping by air and/or boat.

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One MonthIsland Hopping: Oʻahu, the Big Island & Kauaʻi

If you want to live in the scenery (not just admire it), consider combining Oʻahu, the Big Island and Kauaʻi, all of which together off er the hiking and backcountry adven-tures of a lifetime plus plenty of traditional and contemporary Hawaiian culture, not to mention tasty treats for your tummy.

Start on the capital island of Oʻahu, basing yourself in Waikiki or Kailua for a week. Among the major cultural sights around Honolulu, don’t miss the Bishop Museum, ʻIolani Palace, the Honolulu Academy of Arts and Pearl Harbor. Along with time spent on Waikiki’s beaches, snorkel at Hanauma Bay and hike to Manoa Falls after visiting the Lyon Arboretum. End each day exploring Honolulu’s cuisine scene and enjoying heavenly Hawaiian music and hula with sunset cocktails by the ocean. Drive up the Windward Coast to the North Shore for surfi ng, stand up paddle boarding and windy walks out to Kaʻena Point.

Mosey over to Hawaiʻi the Big Island and book a B&B in South Kona for a few nights. For ocean adventures, hike to secluded Makalawena Beach, kayak and snorkel at Keal-akekua Bay and snorkel or dive at night with manta rays around Kailua-Kona. In Kaʻu, go caving at Kula Kai Caverns, hike to Green Sands Beach and follow the rugged Road to the Sea. Next, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park off ers spectacular hiking and, if you’re lucky, a chance to watch live lava fl ow into the sea. Afterward, bed down in a rainfor-est cottage in Volcano. Spend a night or two in Hilo, taking time to day-hike on Mauna Kea or to drive partway up the mountain for stargazing after dark. Last, explore Waipiʻo Valley; if you’ve got the time, consider backpacking to Waimanu Valley.

With another week or more, head to Kauaʻi. Spend a couple of nights camping and hiking at Kokeʻe State Park and Waimea Canyon State Park, then boogie up to the North Shore, mixing some camping at ʻAnini Beach or Haʻena Beach with lodgings in Hanalei. Swim, snorkel and surf, but don’t leave without tackling the Na Pali Coast’s amazing Kalalau Trail.

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Ned Friary & Glenda Bendure Maui, Kahoʻolawe Ned and Glenda fi rst laid eyes on Hawaii in the 1980s after a teaching stint in Japan, and were so taken by the islands’ raw natural beauty that their intended two-week stopover turned into a four-month stay. Since then, they’ve returned to Hawaii dozens of times, exploring each island from top to bot-tom. They wrote the fi rst fi ve editions of Lonely Planet’s Hawaii and have been coauthors of each edition since. They have a fondness for islands and have written Lonely Planet guides to destinations as far fl ung as Micronesia, Bermuda and the Eastern Caribbean. They are coauthors of Lonely Planet’s Maui, USA and New England guidebooks. They live on Cape Cod when they’re not on the road.

Conner Gorry Hawaiʻi the Big Island An island girl at heart, Conner knows some of the best: Manhattan, Molokaʻi, Cuba, Kauaʻi. But oh, Hawaiʻi. Since the moment she smelled Hilo and beheld the Puʻu ʻOʻo Vent, writing the fi rst Lonely Planet guide to the Big Island, she’s felt just like Twain, longing for ‘the privilege of living for-ever away up on one of those mountains in the Sandwich Islands overlooking the sea…’ She happily consumed four cans of Spam during the research of this book

and ticked three experiences (phenomenal, the lot) off her bucket list: snorkeling with manta rays at night, beholding the lava sea entry from a boat and hiking the Muliwai Trail.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Lanaʻi, Molokaʻi Ryan Ver Berkmoes fi rst visited Molokaʻi in 1987 and remembers being intoxicated by the lush, rural scenery on the drive east (or maybe it was the fumes from the heaps of mangos fermenting along the side of the road). He’s been back often, usually renting a beachside house where, between novels, he looks without envy at the busy lights of Maui across the channel. For this edition of Hawaii Ryan brings his journalistic skills to Lanaʻi and Molokaʻi, two places

that had previously only tested his holiday skills. He’s looking to beat his record of over one hour on of these island’s beaches without seeing another person.

Luci Yamamoto Hawaiʻi the Big Island Luci Yamamoto is a fourth-generation native of Hawaiʻi. Growing up in Hilo, she viewed the cross-island drive from Hilo to Kailua-Kona as a rare, all-day adventure. Then she left for college in Los Angeles and law school in Berkeley – and even the ʻBig’ Island seemed small indeed. Since becoming a Lonely Planet author and covering Hawaiʻi and Kauaʻi, she’s opened her eyes to the true greatness of her home island. Currently living in Vancouver, she feels

privileged when kamaʻaina still consider her a ʻlocal girl.’

Contributing Author Michael Shapiro Michael Shapiro fl ed the cold reaches of New York in 1998 and has lived happily in the Hawaiian Islands ever since. As the editor of Hana Hou! the magazine of Hawaiian Airlines, he’s had the good fortune to travel extensively throughout Hawaii and write about its nature and culture. Michael wrote the Hawaii Today, History and Hawaii’s People chapters.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Sara Benson Coordinating Author, Oʻahu, Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument, Hawaiian Arts & Crafts, Lei, Land & Sea, Green Hawaii After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She then hopped across the Pacifi c to Japan, eventually splitting the diff erence with stints living on Maui, the Big Island of Hawaiʻi and Oʻahu, as well as trekking all over Kauaʻi, Molokaʻi and Lanaʻi. Sara is an avid

hiker, backpacker and outdoor enthusiast who has worked as a seasonal ranger for the National Park Service and as a volunteer at Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. Already the author of over 40 travel and nonfi ction books, Sara also contributed to Lonely Planet’s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oʻahu and Hiking in Hawaii guides. Follow more of her adventures online at www.toptrailsmaui.blogspot.com, www.indietraveler.net and @indie_traveler on Twitter.

Amy C Balfour Maui, Hawaii’s Cuisine Amy fi rst visited Hawaii as a toddler. According to family lore she was so happy to arrive, she ‘sprinkled’ all over the customs agent. For this book she zipped down the West Maui mountains, clutched the wheel on the Kahekili Highway, sunset-cruised off Kaʻanapali, snorkeled beside a green turtle, hiked a jungly mountain trail and enjoyed her most decadent Thanksgiving din-ner ever – a no-worries feast at the Kaʻanapali Beach Hotel. Amy has authored or

coauthored nine books for Lonely Planet, including Los Angeles Encounter, California, The Carib-bean Islands and Arizona. A fi eld correspondent for Backpacker, she has also written for Every Day with Rachael Ray, Lonely Planet Magazine, the Los Angeles Times, Redbook, Southern Living and Women’s Health.

E Clark Carroll Kauaʻi, Niʻihau Led by nurtured whimsicality and living one day at a time, Clark has found himself in a life beyond anything the most fecund imagination could have created, living on the North Shore of Kaua‘i. Originating in New York, his lesson-fi lled path has led west, back east, down south to study and commence his writing career, down under to study more and explore, to the far east to chase waves, and for now he’s content to be somewhere in the middle…of the

Pacifi c Ocean. Getting to be servant to the reader and refl ect all that he has come to understand and love about Kaua‘i was, in a word, dreamy.

Read more about Sara at:lonelyplanet.com/members/sara_benson

Read more about Amy at:lonelyplanet.com/members/amycbalfour

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – Sep 2011ISBN 978 1 74179 806 7© Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 201110 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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